KR20070072002A - Soft composite yarn and process of making the same - Google Patents
Soft composite yarn and process of making the same Download PDFInfo
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- KR20070072002A KR20070072002A KR1020050135914A KR20050135914A KR20070072002A KR 20070072002 A KR20070072002 A KR 20070072002A KR 1020050135914 A KR1020050135914 A KR 1020050135914A KR 20050135914 A KR20050135914 A KR 20050135914A KR 20070072002 A KR20070072002 A KR 20070072002A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
- D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
- D01D5/34—Core-skin structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
- D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
- D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
- D02G3/045—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
Description
도 1은 본 발명의 제조공정개략도.1 is a schematic manufacturing process of the present invention.
본 발명은 폴리에스테르 소프트 복합가공사 및 이의 제조방법에 관한 것으로, 종전의 복합가공사 제조방법으로는 얻을 수 없었던, 극세조의 부드러운 터치와 은은한 투톤의 외관특성을 가지며 소모조 직물에서 요구되는 반발감, 드레이프성이 발현되는 폴리에스테르 소프트 복합가공사 및 그 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a polyester soft composite fabrication process and a manufacturing method thereof, which has a micro touch soft touch and a soft two-tone appearance characteristic that cannot be obtained by a conventional composite fabrication manufacturing process, and have a repulsive feeling and drape property required in a waste fabric. The present invention relates to the polyester soft composite processing and the production method thereof.
종래의 심초구조 복합가공사는 2종의 사의 신도차이를 이용하여 동일한 가연영역에서 가연정도의 차이를 유발하여 신도가 낮은 원사는 복합가연사의 심사(Core사)로 들어가고 신도가 높은 원사는 복합사의 초사(Effect사)로 구성되어 초사가 심사를 감싸는 2층 구조를 가지도록 제조한 것이다.Conventional cardiac structure composite processing uses the elongation difference between two types of yarns to cause a difference in the degree of flammability in the same flammable area. It is manufactured to have a two-layer structure composed of (Effect) and the yarn is wrapped around the screening.
초사로는 신도가 높은 폴리에스테르 저배향사 혹은 부분배향사 등이 사용되고, 심사(Effect사로)는 폴리에스테르 태(太)데니어 필라멘트사 혹은 고수축성 원사를 사용하여, 가공사 표면의 촉감은 마이크로 효과사에 의해 부드럽고, 농색이 발현되고, 심사로 사용되는 태섬도 연신사에 의해 드레이프성, 반발성이 발현된다.이와 관련된 종래의 기술로는 일본 특개평 제7-126944, 제7-11529등에서 심초구조의 복합가연 가공법에 대하여 제안하고 있는데, 상기 방법들은 복합가공사의 특징인 벌키감과 반발감은 어느 정도 해결되지만, 극세섬유가 가지는 스웨이드조의 부드러운 촉감의 발현은 불가능하였고, 또한 모직물에서 발현되는 자연스럽고 은은한 투톤의 효과발현에는 미흡하였다.High-strength polyester low-orientation yarn or partial-orientation yarn is used, and the screening (Effect yarn) is made of polyester thick denier filament yarn or high shrinkable yarn. It is soft, and deep color is expressed, and drape property and repulsion are expressed by the Taesumido drawing yarn used for screening. Conventional techniques related to this include a vinegar structure in Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 7-126944, 7-11529 and the like. It proposes the composite twist processing method of the above method, although the bulky and repulsive feelings, which are characteristic of the composite processing, are solved to some extent, the soft touch of the suede tank of the microfibers is not possible, and the natural and softness of the woolen fabric is also expressed. The effect of two-tone expression was insufficient.
또한 국내공개특허 2003-0008047에서는 이성분 복합방사에 의한 해도형 부분 연신사를 효과사로 사용하고 심사로는 비등수축율이 10~40%인 고수축사를 심사로 사용하여 혼섬 교락한 다음, 가연처리하여 제조하는 복합가공사를 제안하고 있는데, 이는 효과사의 이용성 성분이 감량가공에 의해 용출되어 중량 감소율이 극히 높아 코스트가 높아지는 단점이 있으며, 무엇보다도, 감량 후 극세섬유의 염색성 및 마찰에 의한 필링이 심하기 때문에, 실용적 측면에서의 효과를 기대하기는 어려웠다.In addition, Korean Patent Publication No. 2003-0008047 uses island-in-the-sea partial stretched yarn by two-component composite spinning as an effect yarn, and uses a high shrinkage yarn with a boiling shrinkage of 10 to 40% as a screening, and then mixes and blends it. It is proposed to manufacture composite processing, which has the disadvantage that the usable component of the effector is eluted by the weight loss processing and the cost reduction is extremely high due to the weight loss rate, and above all, since the filling by the dyeing and friction of the ultrafine fibers after the weight loss is severe. However, it was difficult to expect a practical effect.
일본 특개평 제10-237733에서는 이산화티탄의 함량이 높은 저배향사를 초사로 사용하고, 심사로는 신도가 낮은 멀티필라멘트를 사용하여 복합가연사를 제공하는 것을 제안하고 있는데, 마찬가지로 드레이프성이나 자연스러운 외관은 우수하나, 직물의 터치가 부드럽지 못한 문제점이 있었다.Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 10-237733 proposes to use a low-orientation yarn having a high content of titanium dioxide as a superfiber yarn, and to provide a composite twisted yarn using low-fidelity multifilament for screening. Is excellent, but there was a problem that the touch of the fabric is not soft.
본 발명은 고도의 소프트 특성, 자연스러운 염색성, 드레이프성, 반발특성이 뛰어난 소프트 복합가공사 및 그 제조방법을 제공하기 위한 것이다.An object of the present invention is to provide a soft composite workpiece having excellent soft property, natural dyeing property, drape property and repulsion property, and a manufacturing method thereof.
본 발명은 상술한 바와 같은 문제점을 해결하고자 예의 노력한 결과, 폴리에스테르 저배향 혹은 부분배향사를 효과사(effect사)로 사용하는데 있어 그 단사섬도를 0.3~1.2데니어의 직접방사 극세사로 하여 복합가연사를 제조하였을 시, 극세조의 부드러운 터치와 은은한 투톤의 외관효과 뿐 아니라, 소모조 직물이 요구하는 반발감 혹은 드레이프성이 우수한 소프트 복합가공사 및 직물이 얻어진다는 사실을 확인하고 본 발명에 이르게 되었다.As a result of the intensive efforts to solve the problems described above, the present invention is a composite twisted yarn using a single yarn fineness of 0.3 ~ 1.2 denier direct yarn fine yarn in the use of polyester low orientation or partial orientation yarn as an effect yarn (effect yarn) When manufacturing the present invention, it was confirmed that the soft composite and the soft two-tone appearance effect as well as the soft composite processing and fabric excellent in the resilience or draping required by the consumption tank were obtained.
본 발명은 극세조의 부드러운 촉감과 은은한 투톤효과를 동시에 가지는 소프트 복합가공사 및 이의 제조방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 단사섬도 0.3~1.2데니어의 섬도를 가지는 직접방사 부분배향사 혹은 저배향 폴리에스테르를 효과사로 사용하고, 심사로는 2.0~7.5데이어 연신사를 사용하여, 가연온도 150~210℃, 연신비 1.0~1.3의 연신비(D/R)로 연신함과 동시에 가연(false-twist), 2차 세팅하는 것을 특징으로 하는 소프트 복합가공사 및 그 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a soft composite processing having a soft touch and a soft two-tone effect at the same time, and a manufacturing method thereof. More specifically, the present invention relates to a direct spinning partial alignment yarn or a low orientation polyester having a single yarn fineness of 0.3 to 1.2 denier. It is used as an effector, and it is used as a screening agent and draws with a draw ratio (D / R) with a draw ratio of 150 to 210 ° C and a draw ratio of 1.0 to 1.3 using a drawer of 2.0 to 7.5 days. It relates to a soft composite machining and its manufacturing method characterized in that the tea setting.
직접방사 부분배향사란, 알칼리 감량에 의해 분할 및 극세화 되는 이성분의 해도형 복합사가 아니라, 제사 단계에서부터 특수 폴리머와 고도의 방사기술에 의해 섬유를 극세화시킴으로서, 별도 후 가공에서의 감량가공 및 폐수에 의한 환경오염이 없이 얻고자 하는 극세조의 부드러운 터치를 발현하는 섬유로, 본 발명에서는 단사섬도 0.3~1.2데니어의 섬도를 가지며, 배향도가 30× 10-3~70× 10-3인 직접방사 극세사를 복합가공사의 효과사로 사용하여 우수한 염색성 및 극세조의 부드러운 터 치를 발현하는 직물을 제조할 수 있게 하였다.Direct spinning partial alignment yarns are not two-component islands-in-the-sea composite yarns that are divided and micronized by alkali weight loss. A fiber that expresses a very fine touch that is intended to be obtained without environmental pollution by wastewater. In the present invention, the single yarn fineness has a fineness of 0.3 to 1.2 denier and has a degree of orientation of 30 × 10 -3 to 70 × 10 -3 . The microfiber yarn was used as an effect yarn for the composite fabrication, and thus fabrication of a fabric expressing excellent dyeability and soft touch of the microfibre was made possible.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
도 1은 본 발명이 적용되는 복합가연 공정의 개략도로서, 극세조의 직접방사 부분배향사(A)와 연신사(B)를 각각 분리된 상태에서 튜브가이드(1)를 통해 공급로울러(2)에 공급된다.1 is a schematic diagram of a composite combustion process to which the present invention is applied, in which the microspun direct-orientation partial alignment yarn (A) and the stretched yarn (B) are separated from the
공급로울러(2)를 통과한 사조는 공기교락장치(a)에서 공기혼섬되어 공급로울러(3)을 통해서 제1히터(4)를 통과하고, 냉각판(5) 및 가연부(6)를 거쳐 공급로울러(7) 사이에서 동일 연신비로 연신됨과 동시에 가연된다. 이때 가연장치(6)로는 트위스트 밸트 이외에 스핀들식, 또는 마찰식 등 임의의 가연장치를 사용할 수 있다.The thread passed through the
연신, 가연된 사조는 제 2히터(8)에서 열고정되고 오일링 로울러(10)에 의해 급유된 후 와인더(11)에 권취된다.The stretched and twisted thread is heat-set in the
이와 같이 폴리에스테르 연신사와 극세조의 부분배향된 폴리에스테르사를 연신과 동시에 가연함으로써 신도가 높은 초사가 복합가연사의 표면 효과사로 작용하고 신도가 낮은 연신사는 가공사의 중심부에 심사로 구성된다.As described above, the high-strength yarns act as surface effect yarns of the composite twisted yarn by simultaneously burning and stretching polyester-drawn yarns and micro-fine partially oriented polyester yarns.
또한 상기 복합가공사의 효과사로 사용되어지는 부분배향 된 직접방사 극세사는 단사섬도가 0.3~1.2이며, 배향도가 30× 10-3~70× 10-3의 범위이고, 필라멘트의 총데니어가 80~130데니어인 것을 특징으로 하는 마이크로 파이버를 사용하고, 심사로는 2.0~7.5의 섬도를 가지는 신도 50%이하인 연신사를 사용하게 된다.In addition, the partially oriented direct spinning microfiber used as the effect yarn of the composite processing is 0.3 ~ 1.2 single yarn fineness, the orientation degree is in the range of 30 × 10 -3 ~ 70 × 10 -3 , the total denier of the filament is 80 ~ 130 The microfiber characterized by being denier is used, and the screening will use a stretcher having 50% or less of elongation having a fineness of 2.0 to 7.5.
따라서 본 발명의 복합가연사는 마이크로 부분배향사사 및 고반발 특성을 가지는 심사를 적용하게 되므로, 소프트한 터치 및 은은한 염색성, 반발감, 드레이프성이 발현되어, 고품위의 소모조 직물의 제조가 가능하다.Therefore, the composite twisted yarn of the present invention applies a micro-orientated yarn and a screen having high repulsion characteristics, so that soft touch and soft dyeing, repulsive feeling, and drape are expressed, and thus, high-quality fabrics can be manufactured.
이하 구체적인 실시예 및 비교예를 가지고 본 발명의 구성 및 효과를 보다 상세히 설명하지만, 이들 실시예는 단지 본 발명을 보다 명확하게 이해시키기 위한 것일 뿐, 본 발명의 범위를 한정하고자 하는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the configuration and effects of the present invention will be described in more detail with specific examples and comparative examples, but these examples are only intended to more clearly understand the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.
직물의 소프트터치성 및 염색외관은 전문가의 육안관찰 및 주관적 평가로 시험하여 10명중 8인 이상이 우수하다고 판정하면 매우우수로, 7인 이상이면 우수, 6인 이상이면 보통, 5인 이하면 불량으로 판단하였다.The soft touch and dyeing appearance of the fabrics are tested by visual observation and subjective evaluation by experts, which is very good when 8 or more people out of 10 are excellent. Excellent by 7 or more people. Judging by
[실시예 1]Example 1
저배향 혹은 부분배향된 단사섬도 0.5데니어이고 총섬도가 100데니어인의 마이크로 폴리에스테르사를 효과사로, 심사로 사용된 연신사는 단사섬도가 6.7데니어이고, 신도가 30%인 폴리에스테르 연신사를 도1과 같은 공정에서 다음 조건에 의해 복합가연 가공을 실시하였다.Low- or partially-oriented single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier and total fineness of 100 denier micro polyester yarn is an effect yarn. The drawn yarn used for screening is a polyester yarn having a single yarn fineness of 6.7 denier and 30% elongation. In the same process as in step 1, the composite twist processing was performed under the following conditions.
·사속 : 380m/minFire speed: 380m / min
·연신비 : 1.03Elongation Ratio: 1.03
·밸트속도비 : 1.584Belt speed ratio: 1.584
·제1히터온도 : 180℃1st heater temperature: 180 ℃
·제2히터온도 : 170℃2nd heater temperature: 170 ℃
·공기교락장치의 공기압력 : 2.5kg/cm2 - air pressure of the air entangling apparatus: 2.5kg / cm 2
·제 2오버피드 : 2.532nd overfeed: 2.53
·제3오버피드 : 3.893rd overfeed: 3.89
이렇게 제조한 신축성 복합가연사를 1,450꼬임수/m으로 연사한 후, 경사본수 5032본, 경사밀도 102본/인치, 위사밀도 72본/인치, 2/2 능조직으로 제직하고, 기타 가공조건은 통상의 가공조건에 따라 직물을 제조하였다.The twisted composite twisted yarn thus manufactured is twisted at 1,450 twist / m, and then weaved into 5032 warp yarns, 102 warp densities / inch, weft density 72 bones / inch, 2/2 twill, and other processing conditions. Fabric was prepared according to the processing conditions of.
[실시예 2]Example 2
효과사로 사용된 폴리에스테르 부분배향사의 단섬유의 굵기가 0.3데니어인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조되었다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the thickness of the short fibers of the polyester partial alignment yarn used as the effect yarn is 0.3 denier.
[실시예 3]Example 3
효과사로 사용된 폴리에스테르 부분배향사의 단섬유의 굵기가 1.3데니어인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조되었다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the thickness of the short fibers of the polyester partial alignment yarn used as the effect yarn is 1.3 denier.
[실시예 4]Example 4
심사로 사용된 연신사의 단사 섬도가 2.0데니어이고, 신도가 50% 이하인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조하였다.The single yarn fineness of the drawn yarn used as the screening was 2.0 denier, and was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the elongation was 50% or less.
[실시예 5]Example 5
심사로 사용된 효과사의 총섬도가 80데니어인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조하였다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the total fineness of the effect yarn used as the screening was 80 denier.
[실시예 6]Example 6
심사로 사용된 효과사의 배향도가 45× 10-3인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조하였다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the orientation of the effect yarn used as the screening was 45 × 10 −3 .
[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1
효과사로 사용된 폴리에스테르 부분배향사의 단섬유의 굵기가 0.18데니어인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조되었다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the thickness of the short fibers of the polyester partial alignment yarn used as the effect yarn is 0.18 denier.
[비교예 2]Comparative Example 2
효과사로 사용된 폴리에스테르 부분배향사의 단섬유의 굵기가 1.5데니어인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조되었다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the thickness of the short fibers of the polyester partial alignment yarn used as the effect yarn is 1.5 denier.
[비교예 3]Comparative Example 3
심사로 사용된 연신사의 단사 섬도가 1.8데니어이고, 신도가 50% 이하인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조하였다.The single yarn fineness of the drawn yarn used as the screening was 1.8 denier, and was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the elongation was 50% or less.
[비교예 4][Comparative Example 4]
심사로 사용된 연신사의 단사 섬도가 8.0데니어이고, 신도가 125% 인 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조하였다.The single yarn fineness of the drawn yarn used as the screening was 8.0 denier, and was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the elongation was 125%.
[비교예 5][Comparative Example 5]
복합가공사의 제조 방법에 있어 제 1 히터의 온도를 130℃로 하는 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조하였다.In the manufacturing method of the composite workpiece, it was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the temperature of the first heater was 130 ° C.
[비교예 6]Comparative Example 6
복합가공사의 제조 방법에 있어 제 1 히터의 온도를 220℃로 하는 것 외에 실시예 1과 동일하게 제조하였다.In the manufacturing method of the composite work, it manufactured similarly to Example 1 except having set the temperature of the 1st heater to 220 degreeC.
제조된 복합가공사 및 상기의 직물을 가지고 소프트성, 염색외관, 작업성을 평가하여 다음의 표에 나타내었다.With composite fabrication and fabrics prepared above, softness, appearance, and workability were evaluated and shown in the following table.
[표 1]TABLE 1
본 발명에 따른 복합가공사는 종래 기술의 폴리에스테르 복합가연사에 비하여 마이크로 부분배향사에 의한 극세조의 부드러운 터치와 투톤의 자연스러운 외관 특성이 발현되고, 동시에 소모조 직물에서 요구되는 반발감 및 드레이프성이 우수하여 고급 소모조 직물의 제조가 가능하다.Compared to the polyester composite twisted yarn of the prior art, the composite workpiece according to the present invention exhibits a micro touch-oriented micro-touch soft touch and two-tone natural appearance characteristics, and at the same time, has excellent repulsion and drape properties required for a waste fabric. It is possible to produce high quality worsted fabric.
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KR20140089633A (en) * | 2013-01-03 | 2014-07-16 | 도레이첨단소재 주식회사 | Polyester yarn of a cotten-like texture and manufacturing method thereof |
CN104278386A (en) * | 2013-07-10 | 2015-01-14 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Polyester elastic yarn, production method of polyester elastic yarn and fabric made of polyester elastic yarn |
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Cited By (2)
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KR20140089633A (en) * | 2013-01-03 | 2014-07-16 | 도레이첨단소재 주식회사 | Polyester yarn of a cotten-like texture and manufacturing method thereof |
CN104278386A (en) * | 2013-07-10 | 2015-01-14 | 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 | Polyester elastic yarn, production method of polyester elastic yarn and fabric made of polyester elastic yarn |
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