KR101459225B1 - Process of producing air-textured yarn having excellent elasticity and melange effect - Google Patents
Process of producing air-textured yarn having excellent elasticity and melange effect Download PDFInfo
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- KR101459225B1 KR101459225B1 KR1020130049322A KR20130049322A KR101459225B1 KR 101459225 B1 KR101459225 B1 KR 101459225B1 KR 1020130049322 A KR1020130049322 A KR 1020130049322A KR 20130049322 A KR20130049322 A KR 20130049322A KR 101459225 B1 KR101459225 B1 KR 101459225B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
- D02G3/047—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials including aramid fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
- D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
- D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
- D01D5/34—Core-skin structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
- D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
- D01F8/12—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyamide as constituent
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
- D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
- D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2505/00—Industrial
- D10B2505/18—Outdoor fabrics, e.g. tents, tarpaulins
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 신축성 및 멜란지톤발현이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서 나일론 필라멘트를 포함한 2종의 세섬사를 에어텍스쳐링한 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing an air texture having excellent stretchability and melancholy tone, and more particularly, to a method of manufacturing an air texture that air-textures two types of nylon filaments including nylon filaments.
최근, 섬유업계에서는 소비자의 다양한 수요욕구에 대응하여 이색조효과를 가지는 멜란지직물이 다량 개발되어 시장에서 각광을 받고 있다. 현재까지 멜란지 소재는 폴리에스테르소재를 중심으로 PCD(Cationic dyeable PET), 원착사와의 태데니아중심의 복합사가공, 인터레이스 기술, 방사혼섬 기술에 의해 멜란지 특수 복합사용으로 생산되고 있으며 주로 바지, Suit용도로 사용이 되어지고 있다. Recently, in the textile industry, a large number of melange fabrics having a dichroic effect have been developed in response to consumers' various demands. Until now, Melanji has been produced by using special combination of melange by using composite material of PCD (Cationic dyeable PET), Tadeniya center with interlaced technology, and yarn blending technique mainly in polyester materials. Has been used.
이러한 멜란지 소재복합에 사용되는 PCD(Cationic dyeable PET)섬유는 1970년대 복합사가공 신합섬용 소재를 생산하기 위해 사용되어지기 시작하여, 현재까지 원사메이커에서 만들어진 단독소재를 사용하여 다양한 복합사가공, 인터레이스 기술에 의해 특수 복합사용으로 생산되고 있다. PCD (Cationic dyeable PET) fiber used in composites of melange materials began to be used to produce materials for new composite yarn processing in the 1970s. So far, various composite yarn processing, interlacing It is produced by special combination of technology.
한편, 스포츠 아웃도어용 바람막이, 다운파카, 스포츠 자켓 직물에 적용하는 용도상의 차이에서 종래의 폴리에스터 멜란지 직물과는 달리, 나일론으로 멜란지직물을 필요로 하는 경우가 있다. 최근 나일론 제품의 트랜드추세는 박지화 및 경량화 추세에 있으며 이러한 나일론 경량박지제품은 스포츠웨어 시장에서 큰 붐을 이루고 있다. 스포츠웨어 시장은 우수한 고발색성, 반발탄력성, 강도의 특성을 가진 나일론 소재를 이용하여 골프웨어용, 바람막이용, 다운프루프용, 등산용, 각종 스포츠제품으로 용도전개가 이루어지고 있다.On the other hand, unlike the conventional polyester melange fabrics, there is a case where a melange fabric is required as a nylon in a difference in application to be applied to a sports outdoor windshield, a down pocket, and a sports jacket fabric. Recently, the trend of nylon products is in the trend of Park Ji-hwa and lighter weight, and these nylon lightweight park products are booming in the sportswear market. The sportswear market has been developed for use in golf wear, windshield, down-proof, mountaineering, and sports products using nylon materials with excellent color development, resilience and strength.
이러한 수요자의 다양한 욕구를 충족시키기 위하여 박지형의 나일론 멜란지직물의 개발의 필요성이 대두되고 있다. In order to meet the various needs of the consumer, there is a need to develop Park Ji-hyung's nylon melange fabrics.
이러한 시도를 위해 업계에서는 나일론 폴리머를 개질하여 염기성 염료에 반응하는 Nylon Cation Dyeable(NCD) 소재의 개발을 통해 일반 나일론과 다른 염색성을 가짐으로 나일론과 함께 사용시 100% 나일론 조성의 이색효과의 원단을 후염으로 얻을 수 있는 원사를 개발한 바 있다. 이러한 염기성염료 가염성 나일론사와 일반 나일론 6사와의 에어텍스쳐링에 의한 ATY(Air Texturing Yarn) 또는 인터레이스(Interlace) 복합연사 방법을 개발하여 나일론 고유의 물성 및 장점을 유지하면서 일반 나일론과의 합사시 이색 멜란지 효과를 가지는 나일론 멜란지직물을 제조하려는 시도가 있었으나, 세섬원사를 단독으로 사용하는 이유로 직물표면의 다양한 효과발현이 어렵고, 신축특성이 나쁘며, 촉감이 소프트하지 못한 문제점이 발생하였다. For this purpose, Nylon Cation Dyeable (NCD) material, which reacts with basic dyes by modifying nylon polymer, has a different dyability than ordinary nylon, so that when used with nylon, the fabric of dyed effect of 100% The yarn has been developed to obtain. We have developed ATY (Air Texturing Yarn) or Interlace combined twisting method by air texturing with basic dyestuff dyeing nylon yarn and
한편, 대한민국등록특허제10-0860266호에서는 폴리에스테르 원착 초극세사 30 내지 70 중량% 및 나일론 또는 폴리에스테르 일반 초극세사 70 내지 30 중량%의 비율로 복합가연 또는 인터레이스된 원사를 경사, 위사 또는 경사 및 위사로 사용하여 제직 또는 편직하고, 염가공하여 멜란지형 외관이 우수한 초극세 섬유포를 제공하고 있으나, 스웨드제품의 제조에 사용되는데 그칠뿐만 아니라 원착사를 사용함으로써 다양한 색상의 발현이 어렵다는 문제점을 가지고 있었다.On the other hand, in Korean Patent No. 10-0860266, composite yarn or interlaced yarn at a ratio of 30 to 70% by weight of polyester ultrasound microcapsules and 70 to 30% by weight of nylon or polyester microfibers is warped, The present invention provides a microfibre fiber having excellent melange appearance by using a woven or knitted fabric and a salt processing. However, it is not only used in the manufacture of suede products but also has a problem in that it is difficult to express various colors by using a circle-shaped yarn.
최근에는 나일론 원착사와 일반 나일론과의 인터레이스 기술에 의한 이색소재가 개발되고 있으나, 색상발현의 한계 및 세섬사 제조가 어려운 단점이 있었으며, 나일론과 PTT(폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트)소재의 방사 혼섬소재가 개발되었으나, 이색효과 발현의 한계 및 견뢰도저하의 문제점이 있었다. Recently, there have been developed dichroic materials by the interlacing technique between nylon original yarn and ordinary nylon, but there are disadvantages of limitation of color development and difficulty of manufacturing three yarns, and the yarn of yarn of nylon and PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) However, there was a problem of the limitation of the development of the dichroic effect and the lowering of the fastness.
그러므로 본 발명에서는 상기 종래기술의 문제점을 해결하여 신축특성 및 이색효과 발현이 우수하고 견뢰도가 우수한 세섬도 에어텍스쳐가공사를 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, the present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a three-ply air texture having excellent stretchability and dichroic effect and excellent fastness.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 효과사로 나일론 6 필라멘트사를 효과사용제1피드롤러를 통과시킨 후 핫핀을 통과시키고 효과사용제2피드롤러를 통과시키면서 에어텍스쳐링장치로 공급하고,Therefore, according to the present invention, the
심사로 폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사를 심사용제1피드롤러와 심사용제2피드롤러를 통과시키면서 에어텍스쳐링장치로 공급하고,The polyester-based latent crimping filament yarn was fed to the air texturing apparatus while passing through the
상기 에어텍스쳐링장치로 함께 공급된 효과사 및 심사를 에어텍스쳐링장치내에서 교락한 후, 제3피드롤러, 제4피드롤러 및 히터를 통과시키고 송출롤러를 통과시키고 사속 380~420m/min로 권취하는 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 멜란지톤발현이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법이 제공된다.
After the effect yarn and the jig supplied together with the air texturing apparatus are entangled in the air texturing apparatus, the yarn is passed through the third feed roller, the fourth feed roller and the heater, passed through the feed roller, and wound at a speed of 380-420 m / min Which is excellent in elasticity and melancholy tone expression.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명의 신축성 및 멜란지톤발현이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사는 효과사로 나일론 6 필라멘트사를 사용하고, 심사로 폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사를 사용하여 에어텍스쳐링장치내에서 교락하여 제조하게 된다.
The air texture of the present invention having excellent stretchability and melancholy tone expression is manufactured by using
본 발명의 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법은 도 1에 도시된 바와 같이 효과사(1)로 나일론 6 필라멘트사를 효과사용제1피드롤러(3)를 통과시킨 후 핫핀(4)을 통과시키고 효과사용제2피드롤러(5)를 통과시키면서 에어텍스쳐링장치(8)로 공급하고, 심사(2)로 폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사를 심사용제1피드롤러(6)와 심사용제2피드롤러(7)를 통과시키면서 에어텍스쳐링장치(8)로 공급하고, 상기 에어텍스쳐링장치로 함께 공급된 효과사 및 심사를 에어텍스쳐링장치내에서 교락한 후, 제3피드롤러(9), 제4피드롤러(10) 및 히터(11)를 통과시키고 송출롤러(12)를 통과시키고 사속 380~420m/min로 권취한다.1, a
본 발명에서 공급원사 중 효과사는 나일론 6 필라멘트사를 사용하는데, 단사섬도 0.5~1dpf, 인장강도 3.5~4.0g/d 인 것을 사용하고, 심사는 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트와 폴리트리메틸렌테레프랄레이트가 사이드바이사이드형으로 복합방사된 폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사로서, 단사섬도 0.7~2.5dpf, 인장강도 3.5~4.0g/d인 것을 사용하는 것이 최종 에어텍스쳐사의 멜란지톤 발현, 내츄럴터치발현 및 신축특성, 원사의 강도 및 회복율 특성이 다른 원사소재에 비하여 좋다.
In the present invention,
본 발명에서 상기 효과사용제1피드롤러와 효과사용제2피드롤러사이에서의 연신비는 1.0~1.1이고, 상기 핫핀온도는 140~150℃이고, 상기 에어텍스쳐링장치의 공기압력은 5~8bar이고 히터온도는 130~150℃ 것이 바람직한데, 연신비 1.0 미만에서는 루프형성이 적거나 균일한 루프효과가 발현되지 모한 문제점이 있고 연신비 1.1초과시에는 절사가 발생하는 문제점이 발생할 수 있다. 상기 핫핀온도 140℃미만에서는 균일하게 연신되지 못한 문제점이 있고 핫핀온도 150℃초과시에는 루프형성이 다소 적어지는 문제점이 발생할 수 있다. 공기압력은 5bar미만에서는 루프형성이 미흡한 문제점이 발생할 수 있고, 8bar초과시에는 사강도가 떨어지는 문제점이 발생할 수 있다.In the present invention, the stretching ratio between the effected first feed roller and the effected second feed roller is 1.0 to 1.1, the hot pin temperature is 140 to 150 ° C, the air pressure of the air texturing apparatus is 5 to 8 bar, The temperature is preferably 130 to 150 ° C. If the stretching ratio is less than 1.0, there is a problem that the loop formation is less and the loop effect is not uniformly developed, and when the stretching ratio is more than 1.1, the cutting may occur. If the hot pin temperature is lower than 140 캜, the uniformly stretching can not be performed. If the hot pin temperature is higher than 150 캜, the loop formation may be somewhat reduced. If the air pressure is less than 5 bar, there is a problem that the loop formation is insufficient, and when the bar pressure is more than 8 bar, the ductility may drop.
상기 심사용제1피드롤러와 심사용제2피드롤러사이에서의 연신비는 1.0~1.1인 것이 바람직한데, 1.0미만에서는 균일한 루프효과가 발현되지 않는 문제점이 발생하며, 1.1초과시에는 원사 사절의 문제점이 발생할 수 있다.It is preferable that the stretching ratio between the
상기 효과사용제2피드롤러와 제3피드롤러사이에서 오버피드율은 12~18%이고, 심사용제2피드롤러와 제3피드롤러사이에서 오버피드율은 8~10%인 것이 바람직한데, 효과사용제2피드롤러와 제3피드롤러사이에서 오버피드율 12%미만에서는 루프효과가 잘 발현되지 못한 문제점이 발생할 수 있고, 18%초과시에는 작업성이 좋지 못한 문제점이 발생할 수 있다. 또한, 심사용제2피드롤러와 제3피드롤러사이에서 오버피드율은 8%미만에서는 교락이 잘 되지 못하는 문제점이 발생할 수 있고, 10%초과시에는 심사가 사표면으로 돌출하는 문제점이 발생할 수 있다.Preferably, the overfeed ratio between the second feed roller and the third feed roller is 12-18%, and the over feed ratio between the second feed roller and the third feed roller is 8-10% If the overfeed rate is less than 12% between the second feed roller and the third feed roller, the loop effect may not be exhibited. If the over feed rate is more than 18%, the workability may be poor. Also, when the over feed ratio between the
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 내츄럴한 터치감과 신축특성, 멜란지톤을 구현하고, 경량감 및 기능성이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사를 제공함으로써 윈드프루프, 다운프루프, 등산복 등의 아웃도어웨어로 사용될 수 있는 직물을 제공할 수 있다. Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide a fabric which can be used as outdoors such as windproof, down-proof, and mountain-climbing clothes by providing natural touch feeling, stretching property, melange tone and air texture excellent in lightness and functionality .
도 1은 본 발명의 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조공정도이며,
도 2는 본 발명의 에어텍스쳐가공사의 염색후 가공사의 사진이며,
도 3은 본 발명의 에어텍스쳐가공사로 제직된 직물의 사진이며,
도 4는 상기 도 3의 직물의 확대사진이다.1 is a view showing a manufacturing process of an air texture of the present invention,
Fig. 2 is a photograph of the processed yarn after dyeing of the air texture of the present invention,
3 is a photograph of a fabric in which the air texture of the present invention is woven in a construction,
4 is an enlarged photograph of the fabric of FIG.
이하 다음의 실시 예에서는 본 발명의 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법에 대한 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.In the following examples, the air texture of the present invention gives a non-limiting example of a method of manufacturing a construction.
[실시예 1][Example 1]
폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사(t-400, 인비스타사산) 30데니어/34필라멘트를 심(Core)사로 사용하고 나일론 6 SDY 20데니어/34필라멘트를 효과(Effect)사로 사용해 공기교락장치를 활용하여 ATY (Air Textured Yarn)사를 제조하였다. 제조조건은 표 1과 같이 사속 400m/min, 코어사 overfeed 8%, 이펙트사 15%에 에어압력은 6 bar, 2nd heater 온도는 140℃의 조건으로 제조하였다.Polyester based latent crimping filament yarn (t-400, INVISTA Sasa) 30 denier / 34 filament as core yarn and
[실시예 2][Example 2]
폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사(효성산) 40데니어//18필라멘트를 심(Core)사로 사용하고 나일론 6 SDY 20데니어/34필라멘트를 이펙트(Effect)사로 사용해 공기교락장치를 활용하여 ATY(Air Textured Yarn)사를 제조하였다. 제조조건은 표 1과 같이 코어사 overfeed 9%, 이펙트사 15%에 에어압력은 6 bar, 2nd heater 온도는 140℃의 조건으로 제조하였다. 제조된 에어텍스쳐사의 물성은 하기 표 2에 나타내었다.Polyester based latent crimping filament yarn (Hyosung acid) 40 denier // 18 filament is used as core yarn and
(bar)Air pressure
(bar)
(℃)Heater temperature
(° C)
구분
division
Spec.
Spec.
(d)Fineness
(d)
(gf/d)Cutting strength
(gf / d)
(%)Truncation
(%)
(%)Non-water elasticity
(%)
(%)Tensile Recovery Rate
(%)
(건조속도 : g/min)Quick-drying sweat
(Drying rate: g / min)
이렇게 제조된 에어텍스쳐사를 이용하여 Air-Jet(Toyoda) 고밀도 직기에서 위사방향으로 직기 사속 500R.P.M으로 경사본수 11000, 위사밀도 110으로 하여 평직으로 제직을 하였다. 제조된 제직물을 정련제 3g/L, 호발제 6g/L, 가성소다 5g/L를 투입한 욕조에서 80℃에서 40분간 처리하여 전처리를 실시하였으며 0.6% 이하의 잔지율을 얻을 수 있었으며, 전처리한 원단을 블루 분산염료를 사용하여 3%(o.w.f.), pH4.5 조건에서 분당 2℃씩 승온하여 120℃에서 60분동안 염색하여 염색물을 제조하였다. 120℃ 이상일 경우 균일한 염색이 일어나며 120℃이상의 조건을 모두 포함한다. 이색성을 발현하는 원단을 제조하기 위하여 욕비 1:20, 분산제 0.3%(o.w.f.), acetic acid 4-4.5, 분당 2℃씩 승온하여 120℃에서 40분 동안 염색을 실시한 후 산성고착제 5%(o.w.s)로 80℃에서 20분간 고착처리를 통하여 염색을 완료하였다. 기존의 멜란지 소재는 긴 줄형태의 멜란지로 규칙성이 없는 톤이어서 결점처럼 보이는 단점이 있었으나 본 발명의 상기 직물은 짧은 줄 형태의 멜란지가 규칙성 있고 균일하게 분포되어 있어, 은은하고 자연스러운 멜란지 효과를 얻을 수 있었다. 상기 제조한 원단소재의 세팅 및 후가공을 실시하였다. 열고정온도는 150℃로 설정하였고 불소계 발수제를 이용하여 padding 방식으로 발수 처리하였다. 또한 hydrophilic type PU수지를 활용하여 Over roll Coating 또는 Floating Coating을 실시하였다. 이렇게 제조된 직물은 기존 나일론 직물에서 볼 수 없는 이색 효과를 가지고, 2가지 특성을 가진 가공사의 혼합에 의해 기존 원단의 촉감보다 매우 SOFT한 특성을 가진다.Using this air-textured yarn, weaving was performed in an air-jet (Toyoda) high-density loom in a weft direction with a weft yarn speed of 500R.P.M with an oblique number of 11000 and a weft density of 110. [ The fabric was pretreated at 80 ℃ for 40 min in a bath containing 3 g / L of scouring agent, 6 g / L of salting agent and 5 g / L of caustic soda, and a residual ratio of less than 0.6% was obtained. The fabric was dyed at 120 ° C for 60 minutes using a blue disperse dye at a temperature of 2 ° C per minute at 3% (owf), pH 4.5. When the temperature is higher than 120 ° C, uniform dyeing takes place and all the conditions above 120 ° C are included. In order to fabricate dichroic dyed fabrics, dyeing was carried out at 120 ° C for 40 minutes with a bath ratio of 1:20, a dispersant of 0.3% (owf), acetic acid of 4-4.5, a temperature of 2 ° C per minute, ) For 20 minutes at 80 ° C to complete dyeing. The conventional melange material has a disadvantage in that it is a long line type melange and has a non-regular tone and looks like a defect. However, the fabric of the present invention has a regular and uniform distribution of short-line melange, and thus obtains a soft and natural melange effect I could. Setting and finishing of the fabric material were carried out. The heat fixing temperature was set to 150 ° C and water repellent treatment was carried out using a padding method using a fluorinated water repellent. Over roll coating or floating coating was also performed using hydrophilic type PU resin. The fabrics thus produced have a dichroic effect which can not be seen in conventional nylon fabrics, and have a SOFT characteristic which is more than that of existing fabrics due to the mixing of the fabrics having two characteristics.
1 : 효과사 2 : 심사)
3 : 효과사용 제1피드롤러(FR2) 4 : Hot Pin(HP, 핫핀)
5 : 효과사용 제2피드롤러(FR4) 6 : 심사용제1피드롤러(FR1)
7 : 심사용 제2피드롤러(FR3) 8 : 에어텍스쳐링 장치
9 : 제3피드롤러(DR) 10 : 제4피드롤러(FR5)
11 : 히터 12 : 송출롤러(FR6)
13 : 권취롤러(WD)1: Effect 2: Examination)
3: Effect use 1st feed roller (FR2) 4: Hot Pin (HP, hot pin)
5: Effect used 2nd feed roller (FR4) 6: Examination solvent 1 Feed roller (FR1)
7: second feed roller for inspection (FR3) 8: air texturing device
9: Third feed roller (DR) 10: Fourth feed roller (FR5)
11: heater 12: feed roller (FR6)
13: take-up roller (WD)
Claims (5)
심사로 폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사를 심사용제1피드롤러와 심사용제2피드롤러를 통과시키면서 에어텍스쳐링장치로 공급하고,
상기 에어텍스쳐링장치로 함께 공급된 효과사 및 심사를 에어텍스쳐링장치내에서 교락한 후, 제3피드롤러, 제4피드롤러 및 히터를 통과시키고 송출롤러를 통과시키고 사속 380~420m/min로 권취하는 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 멜란지톤발현이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법.Effect yarn nylon 6 filament yarn is fed to the air texturing device after passing through the first feed roller and passing through the hot pin and passing through the second use feed roller,
The polyester-based latent crimping filament yarn was fed to the air texturing apparatus while passing through the judging solvent 1 feed roller and the judging solvent 2 feed roller,
After the effect yarn and the jig supplied together with the air texturing apparatus are entangled in the air texturing apparatus, the yarn is passed through the third feed roller, the fourth feed roller and the heater, passed through the feed roller, and wound at a speed of 380-420 m / min Wherein the airtightness is excellent in stretchability and melange tone development.
상기 효과사용제1피드롤러와 효과사용제2피드롤러사이에서의 연신비는 1.0~1.1이고, 상기 핫핀온도는 140~150℃이고, 상기 에어텍스쳐링장치의 공기압력은 5~8bar이고 히터온도는 130~150℃ 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 멜란지톤발현이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the draw ratio between the first use feed roller and the second use feed roller is from 1.0 to 1.1, the hot pin temperature is from 140 to 150 占 폚, the air pressure of the air texturing apparatus is from 5 to 8 bar, ≪ / RTI > to < RTI ID = 0.0 > 150 C. < / RTI >
상기 효과사용제2피드롤러와 제3피드롤러사이에서 오버피드율은 12~18%이고, 심사용제2피드롤러와 제3피드롤러사이에서 오버피드율은 8~10%인 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 멜란지톤발현이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
Characterized in that the over feed ratio between the second feed roller and the third feed roller is 12-18% and the over feed ratio between the second feed roller and the third feed roller is 8-10%. And melange tone expression.
상기 효과사인 나일론 6 필라멘트사는 단사섬도 0.5~1dpf, 인장강도 3.5~4.0g/d 이고, 상기 심사인 폴리에스테르계 잠재권축필라멘트사는 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트와 폴리트리메틸렌테레프랄레이트가 사이드바이사이드형으로 복합방사된 것으로서 단사섬도 0.7~2.2dpf, 인장강도 3.5~4.0g/d인 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 멜란지톤발현이 우수한 에어텍스쳐가공사의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
The effect nylon 6 filament yarn has a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 1 dpf and a tensile strength of 3.5 to 4.0 g / d. In the polyester based latent crimping filament yarn, the polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate are side-by-side Wherein the single yarn has a single yarn fineness of 0.7 to 2.2 dpf and a tensile strength of 3.5 to 4.0 g / d, wherein the stretchability and melancholy tone are excellent.
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KR101751614B1 (en) | 2015-11-30 | 2017-06-28 | 이종각 | Process Of Producing Airtextured Yarn For Car Seat Having Excellent Light―Fastness And Elastcity |
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CN108251929A (en) * | 2018-01-05 | 2018-07-06 | 东丽酒伊织染(南通)有限公司 | The preparation method of staple is imitated in a kind of different contraction |
KR102042351B1 (en) * | 2018-05-29 | 2019-11-08 | (주)인터마루인더스트리 | Method Of Manufacturing New―Amide Nylon 4,6 Blended Knits Having Excellent Moisture Regain And Stretchability |
KR101989745B1 (en) * | 2018-06-02 | 2019-06-18 | 제원화섬 주식회사 | Fabric Having Excellent Elasticity And Melange Effect using bamboo filaments and Air-Textured Yarn using bamboo filaments |
KR102185453B1 (en) * | 2019-06-13 | 2020-12-01 | (주)인터마루인더스트리 | Method Of Manufacturing New―Amide Nylon 4,6 Blended Knits Having Excellent Stretchability And Stretch Recovery |
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