JPWO1999031309A1 - Lining and its manufacturing method - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Abstract] The present invention discloses a lining characterized by a woven fabric having warp yarns of polyester long fiber or cellulose long fiber and weft yarns of polyester long fiber false twist textured yarn, polyester long fiber raw yarn, or cellulose long fiber, wherein the weft stretch of the fabric is 5 to 12%, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is in the range of 0.20 to 0.45, and the fabric weft crimp index value calculated by the following formula (1) is 0.003 to 0.013: Weft crimp rate / warp density × (warp fineness) ^1/2 ... (1) The lining of the present invention is soft and has excellent feel and smoothness, allowing for lining with reduced pressure when worn and reduced seam slippage. A typical use example is lining a skirt to prevent the hem from riding up. The lining of the present invention can be produced by scouring a grey fabric woven using polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers for the warp and polyester long fiber yarns for the weft, scouring the scouring fabric to a width of 5 to 30% of the width of the grey fabric before or after scouring, and then heat-treating the scouring fabric at 160°C to 210°C.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] Technical Field The present invention relates to a lining that has remarkably good seam slippage performance and reduces the feeling of pressure when worn, and more specifically to a lining made of 100% polyester long fibers that stretches in the weft direction, has a soft texture, and has excellent surface smoothness and good slipperiness, as well as a lining made of a woven cellulose long fiber and polyester long fiber, and a lining made of 100% cellulose long fibers.

BACKGROUND ART Currently, fiber materials used as woven linings are roughly divided into polyester long fibers and cellulosic long fibers. Linings made of 100% polyester long fibers are less expensive than linings made of 100% cellulosic long fibers, have greater strength against tension, bending, abrasion, etc., and exhibit dimensional stability and little change in appearance after washing, and therefore account for nearly 80% of all linings used in Japan. Compared to linings made of polyester fiber, linings made of 100% cellulosic long fibers have advantages such as excellent moisture absorption, sweat absorption, antistatic properties, and slipperiness that cannot be obtained with polyester fiber linings, and are therefore highly regarded as linings, especially in the field of high-end women's clothing.

On the other hand, linings made by interweaving polyester and cellulosic fibers have also been commercialized to combine the advantages of both.

In recent years, soft and flexible fabrics have become the mainstream for outer fabrics used in clothing, influenced by fashion trends that emphasize comfort and silhouette of clothing. In addition, there is a demand for soft and flexible linings that improve the comfort of clothing and do not impair the silhouette of the outer fabric, and these linings are being commercialized.

As a means to obtain a soft and supple lining, the density of the warp/weft yarn of the fabric is reduced, the denier of the fibers used is made finer, and the dyeing and finishing method is improved. However, in particular, in the case of linings made of 100% polyester long fibers, the softness of the feel is achieved by weight reduction processing using a high concentration of caustic soda solution during the dyeing and finishing process. Among the linings that have been subjected to weight reduction processing, the ones with a weight reduction rate of 100% are the most popular.
High weight reduction products of around 0 to 20% are very soft and fluffy to the touch, and are used as high-quality differentiated linings.

Softening the texture by weight reduction is a method of thinning the fibers by hydrolysis of polyester fibers with an alkaline solution, and gaps are formed between the warp and weft threads constituting the fabric, and also between the multifilaments constituting the warp/weft threads, so the reduction in tensile rigidity, bending rigidity, and shear rigidity of the fabric inevitably accompanies the softening of the texture and the effect of imparting a fluffy feel to the fabric. Although such linings that have undergone a high weight reduction have a soft texture, because gaps are formed between the warp and weft threads,
When a garment is worn and subjected to large tension and shear forces, the warp and weft threads tend to move easily.
One problem with this lining when worn is that the seams are particularly prone to slippage. Seam slippage here refers to the phenomenon in which, when stress is applied to the seams of a woven fabric, the warp or weft threads shift at the seam boundary, and in severe cases, the seam may burst.

A typical example of clothing in which seam slippage is likely to occur is a women's tight-fitting skirt. Tight-fitting skirts emphasize a comfortable feel against the skin, have little lining, and have little lining room relative to the body's measurements. Furthermore, movements such as walking and sitting are large, which causes the seams to pull and become prone to slippage. Methods for preventing seam slippage include increasing the thread density of the warp and weft threads in the fabric and using anti-slip agents to increase the frictional resistance between the fibers. However, increasing the warp and weft thread density in a fabric is contrary to the desire for a softer feel, and the use of anti-slip agents, while temporarily effective, has the problem of being washed off and losing its permanent effect.

The inventors aimed to provide a lining that is soft to the touch and has excellent seam slippage prevention performance. First, they conducted various analyses of several hundred commercially available outer fabrics and representative lining products to find out why conventional linings used in skirts are prone to seam slippage, and obtained the following findings.

When the weft elongation of the outer and lining fabrics was measured under a stress of 500 g/cm, it was found that the majority of outer fabrics had an elongation rate of around 10%, while the lining fabrics had a maximum elongation of only around 3%. This means that in lined garments, even when the outer fabric is stretched, the stress generated in the fabric is small, but the lining generates large stress. Incidentally, the most vulnerable part of the lining to stress is the seam. This suggests that the cause of lining seam slippage occurs.

For example, the lining of the hip area of a skirt is sewn in the warp direction of the fabric, so stress in the weft direction can cause warp seam slippage. In particular, in linings that have been alkali-weighted to soften the texture, the threads are more likely to move within the fabric, making seam slippage more likely.

Therefore, it is assumed that if the lining is given the same weft stretch as the outer fabric, seam slippage will not occur and the silhouette of the outer fabric will not be damaged.

It is believed that the conventional design of weft stretch in linings leaves a mismatch in the stress design generated within the outer fabric and lining, as can be seen in the example of a short, tight skirt that slips up excessively when the wearer sits on a chair or train seat while wearing lined clothing.

As a 100% polyester woven fabric having stretch in the weft direction, there is a fabric disclosed in JP-A-53-13.
As described in JP-A-0363, JP-B-1-21261, JP-B-58-115144, and the like, woven fabrics and processing methods that use false twist textured yarns as weft yarns to achieve a weft elongation of 15% or more are known.
Although the roughness of the surface is reduced using false-twisted yarn obtained under certain conditions, the fabric has a high elongation of 15% or more, so the false-twisted yarn of the weft is significantly bent and the weft is more prominent on the surface of the fabric than the warp, resulting in a highly uneven structure.The fabric has a rough texture and a thick feel, and has low slipperiness, which is an important function of a lining, and is unsatisfactory in terms of ease of putting on and taking off the garment and feel against the skin when worn.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 1-21261 describes a processing method aimed at achieving a weft elongation of 15% or more, and the finished woven fabric still has a strong rough feel and is unsuitable for use as a lining.

In Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-115144, the fabric has an elongation of 15% or more in both the warp and weft directions, and is also a fabric with a strong rough texture.
Publication No. 23 proposes a lining that uses polyester long fiber yarn for the weft, which is flexible (soft and fluffy to the touch) and has good slipperiness. However, this lining has a weft elongation of 4% or less, which suggests that it is ineffective in preventing seam slippage or reducing the feeling of pressure when worn, as is clear from the above findings.

As is clear from the above-mentioned reasons, currently, there are no known linings with suitable weft stretch made of fabrics using polyester filament yarn or cellulose filament yarn as the weft in the prior art.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to provide a lining made of a long-fiber woven fabric having improved lining function, which prevents slippage of seams, does not give a feeling of pressure when worn, is soft and smooth, and feels good against the skin.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a lining made of 100% polyester long fibers, a mixed lining made of polyester long fibers and cellulosic long fibers, and a lining made of 100% cellulosic long fibers, which have the above-mentioned improved lining function.

Another important object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a lining made of a long fiber fabric, which imparts the above-mentioned improved lining function to a 100% polyester long fiber fabric, a mixed woven fabric of polyester long fiber and cellulose long fiber, a 100% cellulose long fiber fabric, etc.

Based on the above findings, the inventors have focused on the weft elongation of the fabric constituting the lining, and have discovered that the performance of the lining can be improved by selectively specifying the crimp rate of the weft yarn constituting the fabric, thereby achieving the long fiber lining desired by the present invention.

That is, an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having warp yarns of polyester long fiber or cellulose long fiber and weft yarns of polyester long fiber false twist textured yarn or polyester long fiber raw yarn or cellulose long fiber, wherein the weft direction elongation of the woven fabric is 5 to 12% and the dynamic friction coefficient of the woven fabric surface is in the range of 0.20 to 0.45;
And the crimp index of the weft yarn of the fabric calculated by the following formula (1) is 0.003 to 0.013
The lining is characterized by the fact that

Weft crimp rate / {warp density × (warp fineness) ^1/2 } (1) The lining of the present invention can be a fabric woven in any weave commonly used for lining fabrics, such as plain weave, twill weave, or satin weave.

The lining of the present invention can be produced by a processing method which includes subjecting a fabric woven using the above-mentioned specific long fiber yarn as the warp yarn and a polyester long fiber false twisted yarn or polyester long fiber as the weft yarn to a heat treatment at 160°C to 210°C at a width insertion rate of 5 to 30% of the width of the grey fabric before or after scouring prior to dyeing processing.

Furthermore, in the case of a fabric woven using the specific long fiber yarns as the warp and cellulosic long fiber yarns as the weft, the fabric can be produced by a processing method that includes adding water to the unscouring gray fabric prior to dyeing, and then subjecting it to a heat treatment at 100°C to 210°C at a width insertion rate of 5 to 15% of the width of the gray fabric. Here, the width insertion rate is defined by the following formula.

Width insertion rate (%) = [(gray woven fabric width - woven fabric width after width insertion) / greige woven fabric width] x 100 In the present invention, by heat treating the woven fabric in the width insertion state described above, the warp density is greatly increased due to the weft direction contraction of the woven fabric structure, and a woven fabric structure is formed in which the crimp of the weft yarn is greatly increased, thereby suppressing slippage of the seams and successfully obtaining a lining with improved lining function that is soft, smooth, and comfortable to the touch, does not cause a feeling of pressure when worn.

The weft elongation and dynamic friction coefficient, crimp rate, warp density and fineness specified in the present invention,
The bending stiffness of the lining is a value measured by the following method using a dyed and finished fabric.

(1) Weft elongation: Using a KES-FB1 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a 20 cm x 20 cm woven fabric was stretched in the weft direction at a tension rate of 0.2 mm/sec, and the elongation S (%) under a stress of 500 g/cm was calculated using the following formula: where A is the force of 500 g/cm
Below represents the stretched length (cm), and B represents the original length of the fabric (20 cm).

S = (A/B) x 100 (2) Dynamic friction coefficient: Using KES-SE manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., the friction surface dimensions were measured at 1 cm x 1 cm.
A cotton cloth of refined gold cloth No. 3 was attached to a friction element of 25 g, and the friction was
The friction element was slid on the surface of a fixed lining at a speed of 1/300 rpm, and the dynamic friction coefficient (μ) was calculated from the frictional resistance force at that time using the following formula. In the formula, A represents the average value of the frictional resistance force (g), and B represents the weight of the friction element (g). The dynamic friction coefficient of the lining was determined as the average value of the friction coefficient when slid in the warp direction and the weft direction of the lining.

μ = A/B (3) Crimp rate of weft yarn: After marking the fabric at 20 cm in the weft direction, the fabric was disassembled and the weft yarn was taken out, a load of 0.1 g/d was applied to the weft yarn, and the length S cm at that time was measured and calculated using the following formula.

Weft crimp rate (%) = {(S - 20) / 20} x 100 (4) Warp density (threads/inch): Fabric density was calculated by counting the number of warp threads per inch of fabric width.

(5) Warp fineness: The warp fineness of the woven fabric is 90 cm when a load of 0.1 g/d is applied to the warp of the woven fabric.
Two samples of the same length were prepared, and their weights W (g) were determined using the following formula.

Warp fineness (denier) = W × 900,000/180 (6) Bending stiffness of fabric in weft direction: Using KES-FB2 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a fabric having a warp of 20 cm × weft of 20 cm was held at an effective sample length of 20 cm × weft of 1 cm, and the maximum curvature was ±2.5 ^cm
When bent under the condition of a bending deformation rate of 0.50 cm ⁻¹ , the curvature was +0.5 and +1
Bending moment per unit width of 5 cm ^-1 (front side bending) (gf cm/cm
m) divided by the curvature (1 cm ^{−1 )} (gf·cm ² /cm) and the bending moment per unit width (gf·cm
/cm) divided by the curvature ( ¹ cm ⁻¹ ).

The present invention will be described in detail below.

In order to obtain a lining that prevents seam slippage, provides no feeling of pressure when worn, and has excellent surface smoothness, which is the objective of the present invention, the weft elongation of the lining and the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining surface must be designed within the ranges specified above. That is, the weft elongation of the lining of the present invention is preferably 5 to 12%, and more preferably 6 to 10%.
As mentioned above, general outer fabrics have a weft stretch of about 5 to 10%. Conventional linings have a weft stretch of less than 3%. When the garment is actually worn, the lining and outer fabric stretch as the skin stretches, but stress is concentrated on the lining, which has little weft stretch, causing seam slippage and even causing the wearer to feel pressured by the lining. When the weft stretch is less than 5%,
It is not possible to absorb the stress on the lining, and it is not possible to prevent the seams from slipping when sitting or squatting while wearing the skirt. Moreover, the tensile stress on the lining increases the pressure when worn, and it is not possible to reduce the feeling of pressure.

If the weft stretch is less than 5%, the stress on the lining causes the hem of the skirt lining to slip up along with the outer fabric, resulting in a poor wearing experience. On the other hand, if the weft stretch exceeds 12%, there is no problem with seam slippage, but the crimp of the weft yarn causes significant bending, resulting in a rough surface and reduced slipperiness, making the lining uncomfortable to wear. In particular, when the lining is rubbed in the warp direction, the crimp of the weft yarn is strongly felt, and the lining becomes thick and rough, hindering the silhouette of the outer fabric.

In order for the lining of the present invention to have a satisfactory surface smoothness (slipperiness), it is necessary for the dynamic friction coefficient of the lining surface to be in the range of 0.20 to 0.45. The preferred range of the dynamic friction coefficient varies depending on the weave of the fabric. In the case of a plain weave fabric, it is 0.2
2 to 0.45 for twill weaves, 0.20 to 0.38 for satin weaves, and 0.20 to 0.35 for satin weaves.

In the case of twill and satin weaves, the warp threads are more exposed to the surface than the weft threads compared to plain weaves, so when friction occurs in the warp direction, the size of the crimp of the weft threads has less of an effect, and the coefficient of friction in the warp direction becomes smaller and falls within the above range.

If the coefficient of dynamic friction is less than 0.20, for example, when wearing a skirt and sitting on a chair, the hem of the skirt will easily slip off due to excessive slippage with the outer fabric, bare skin, pantyhose, etc., or the body will easily slip off due to excessive slippage when sitting on a chair, etc. Furthermore, a lining with a dynamic friction coefficient exceeding 0.45 will have poor slippage with bare skin, pantyhose, etc., resulting in poor ease of putting on and taking off a skirt, etc., and poor feel against the skin, and when used as the lining of a jacket or coat, will have poor slippage with the blouse, shirt, or jacket worn underneath, making it uncomfortable to wear.

In the present invention, in order to achieve both weft elongation and smoothness of the lining, to have a soft texture, and to satisfy the mechanical properties of the lining that are resistant to friction (e.g., weft distortion and fraying due to friction), the fabric unit crimp index shown in the following formula (1) is selected within a specific range. As is clear from the formula, the fabric unit crimp index is a parameter that specifies the surface structure of the lining in terms of the weft elongation of the fabric and the warp cover factor (the area ratio of the warp to the surface of the fabric).

Weft crimp ratio/{warp density×(warp fineness) ^1/2 } (1) The lining of the present invention is preferably designed to have a fabric unit crimp index of 0.003 to 0.013. The preferred value of the fabric unit crimp index varies depending on the weave. For example, in the case of a plain weave, it is 0.004 to 0.013, in the case of a twill weave, it is 0.003 to 0.0011, and in the case of a satin weave, it is 0.003 to 0.00.
The range of the crimp index is 9. If the fabric unit crimp index value is less than 0.003, it is possible that the weft crimp rate is extremely low, or that even if the weft crimp is high, the warp density or warp fineness is high. In the former case, only a lining with small weft elongation is obtained. In the latter case, the warp cover factor becomes too large, making the lining stiff and preventing a lining with a soft feel. In addition, in this case, even if the weft crimp shape becomes large due to the large warp cover factor, the weft is restrained by the warp, making it difficult to obtain the desired weft elongation. If the crimp index value exceeds 0.013, the weft crimp rate is high, or the warp density or warp fineness is low, resulting in a woven structure in which the warp cover factor is small and the weft is very loose. Therefore, when the lining is subjected to friction, particularly in the warp direction, it becomes a rough lining lacking in surface smoothness, and because the warp cover factor of the lining is small, it is prone to fraying and loose weft threads, particularly when subjected to friction in the warp direction.

In addition, the lining of the present invention has a bending stiffness in the weft direction of 0.030 gf cm
² /cm or less.
If the density exceeds 0 gf·cm ² /cm, the lining will have a very hard feel.
In particular, the lining of the present invention has a weft elongation of 5 to 12%, and although the weft crimp rate (weft bending) is high, the weft tends to fray easily. Therefore, compared to conventional linings with a weft elongation of less than 3%, it is necessary to increase the warp density and the warp cover factor, but as a result, the bending stiffness in the warp direction increases.

To achieve the softness required for a lining, the bending hardness in the weft direction is set to 0.030 gf.
By setting the density to cm ² /cm or less, a lining with a soft texture can be obtained.

If the bending stiffness of the lining in the weft direction is 0.003 gf·cm ² /cm or less, it is too soft and clings to the inner garment on the skin side, making it difficult to wear comfortably. For a lining in which the weft is made of polyester filament false twisted yarn, a bending stiffness of 0.025 gf·cm ² /cm or less in the weft direction is more preferable, as it provides a soft touch and does not impair the silhouette of the outer fabric. For a lining in which the weft is made of polyester filament raw yarn, a more preferable bending stiffness is 0.020
The adjustment of the bending stiffness in ^the weft direction when the weft yarn is a raw yarn of polyester long fiber will be described in detail later in the manufacturing method of the lining.
By selecting a raw yarn that is flexible in bending as the polyester long fiber used for the weft, the weft elongation and bending stiffness in the weft direction of the lining can be adjusted to the above-mentioned range. In the case of a lining in which the weft is made of cellulose long fiber, the preferred bending stiffness is 0.030 gf
.cm ² /cm or less.

By using the lining of the present invention, it is possible to produce garments that have excellent seam slippage prevention and comfort, even without the "lining crease" required with conventional linings. "Lacquering" refers to cutting the lining larger than the outer fabric and folding the lining around the seams to provide a loose fit for the purpose of improving comfort. However, by using the lining of the present invention, the weft stretch of the lining acts as a loose fit even without the "lacquer," improving comfort and preventing seam slippage. In this way, the use of the lining of the present invention eliminates the need for a "lacquer" on the lining, eliminating the need to fold the lining around the seams when sewing garments, which has the advantage of streamlining the sewing process.

Examples of the weave of the lining of the present invention include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc.
The weave to be used can be determined appropriately depending on the application area, required properties, etc. For example, for women's clothing, a thin and soft feel is preferred, so a plain weave lining is particularly preferable.

The polyester long fibers used as warp yarns in the lining fabric of the present invention are fibers made of polyester polymers having fiber-forming properties, such as homopolymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polyester copolymers with these polymers.
There is no problem if additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat resistant agents, light resistant agents, titanium oxide, etc. The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, and it may be round, triangular, L-shaped, Y-shaped, T-shaped, or other polygonal shapes, or may be multi-lobed, hollow, flat, or the like.
There are also irregular types and other types.

Examples of the cellulosic long fibers used for the warp include cuprammonium rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, and acetate fibers.

The total denier of the polyester long fiber and cellulose long fiber used for the warp is 30 to 120 denier (d), preferably 50 to 100 d. The fineness of the single yarn is not particularly limited, but is 0.5 to 10 d, preferably 0.5 to 5
d.

These warp yarns are most preferably used as untwisted yarns (flat yarns). However, to improve the convergence of the yarns, the filament yarns are preferably lightly twisted (10 to 150).
The fabric may be subjected to a twisting process (approximately 200 T/M) or interlacing, or may be subjected to a crimping bulking process such as false twisting or air injection processing. For the purpose of achieving special surface effects and tactile effects, hard-twisted yarns may also be used for the warp.

The fibers used for the weft of the present invention are false twisted polyester filament yarns, raw polyester filament yarns, or cellulosic filaments. There are no limitations on the combination of fiber materials between the warp and weft, but examples of woven fabrics with the following combinations are given below.

Woven fabrics having a warp thread of 100% polyester long fiber and a weft thread of 100% polyester long fiber false twisted yarn or 100% polyester long fiber raw yarn, or 100% cellulosic long fiber. Woven fabrics having a warp thread of 100% cellulosic long fiber and a weft thread of 100% polyester long fiber false twisted yarn or 100% polyester long fiber raw yarn, or 100% cellulosic long fiber. Linings having a warp thread of polyester long fiber and cellulosic long fiber and a weft thread of 100% polyester long fiber false twisted yarn or 100% polyester long fiber raw yarn, or 100% cellulosic long fiber. More specifically, examples include a structure in which one polyester long fiber and one cellulosic long fiber are arranged alternately in the warp threads, or a structure in which two polyester long fiber and one cellulosic long fiber are arranged alternately, but the warp arrangement method and the usage ratio can be selected arbitrarily.

The warp yarns are 100% polyester long fibers, and the weft yarns are false twisted polyester long fiber yarns, raw polyester long fiber yarns, or cellulosic long fiber yarns, and the weft yarns may be arranged in any manner and in any ratio.

The warp yarns are 100% cellulosic long fibers, and the weft yarns are false twisted polyester long fiber yarns or raw polyester long fiber yarns, or a combination of cellulosic long fibers, and the weft yarns may be arranged in any manner and in any ratio.

The combination of fabric linings to be selected from the above is as follows:
The lining is selected appropriately depending on the type of garment to which the lining is to be used, the part to be used, the required performance (whether to wash in water or dry clean), etc. For example, when used as a lining for a garment that is inexpensive and easy to care for (small dimensional change and wrinkle resistance even after washing in water) or that is worn frequently, the warp yarn is 100% polyester long fiber, and the weft yarn is 100% polyester long fiber false twisted yarn or 100% polyester long fiber raw yarn.
On the other hand, in the case of expensive clothing that requires comfort when worn (moisture absorption and release performance and antistatic properties) and drapeability, it is preferable to use a lining made of 100% cellulosic fibers in which both the warp and weft are made of a combination of cellulose long fibers.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Preferred methods for producing the lining of the present invention will be described in detail below for each type of weft yarn used.

[1] When the weft is a false-twisted polyester filament yarn The false-twisted polyester filament yarn used for the weft is not particularly limited. The weft may be a common false-twisted yarn produced on an industrial scale. For example, a textured yarn obtained by a spindle method, an external friction false-twisting method, a belt false-twisting method, or the like, which are used in ordinary false-twisting, can be used. There are no particular restrictions on the false-twisting conditions, and both one-heater and two-heater textured yarns can be used. The false-twisting conditions that affect the crimp properties of the false-twisted yarn include the number of false twists, the first heater temperature, the second heater temperature, and the second heater feed rate, but these conditions are not particularly limited.

On the other hand, the false-twisted yarn used for the weft may be interlaced or twisted to improve convergence. There are no restrictions on the raw yarn supplied for false-twisting. Fibers made of fiber-forming polyester polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate are used. The spinning method includes drawn yarns, partially drawn yarns, and undrawn yarns produced by commonly used spinning methods, as well as yarns obtained by high-speed spinning and spin-draw take-up. The term "polyester polymer" as used herein includes not only homopolymers but also copolymers. Additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat stabilizers, light stabilizers, and titanium oxide may be added to the fibers. There are also no particular restrictions on the cross-sectional shape of the fibers. In addition to round, polygonal cross sections such as triangular, L-, Y-, and T-shaped cross sections, as well as multilobal, hollow, flat, and irregular cross sections, can be selected as desired.

In order to achieve both weft elongation and surface smoothness of the fabric, processing is required to cause tissue shrinkage by developing crimp in the textured yarns while restraining the warp and weft yarns as described above. That is, the weaved greige fabric is subjected to a heat treatment before or after scouring while being tensioned in both the warp and weft directions, and simultaneously with width setting, to produce a lining fabric with suppressed crimping, no surface irregularity, and a weft elongation of 5 to 12%.

That is, a woven fabric composed of warp yarns made of polyester long fiber or cellulose long fiber and weft yarns made of false twisted polyester long fiber yarn is subjected to a width adjustment of 5 to 15% before or after scouring with respect to the width of the woven fabric after weaving, and the width is adjusted to 160 to 210 mm.
By carrying out a heat treatment at 0.degree. C., a lining having the desired structure and performance of the present invention can be obtained.

A width-increasing heat treatment of 5 to 15% means that the difference between the warp density designed during weaving and the warp density of the finished roll of the final product will be large. However, in the method of the present invention, the warp indentation is set to 5% or less, i.e., the width-increasing treatment is carried out in a state where the warp direction is more tense than the weft direction without increasing the weft density as much as possible, which results in shrinkage of the fabric structure due to the increase in warp density.

For example, when heat-treating with a pin tenter type heat setter, which is generally used as a heat-treating machine in fabric processing, the width of the woven fabric is fixed at both ends, but the fixed width is narrower than the width of the woven fabric after weaving, and the fabric is treated in a state of being more tense in the warp direction.
The weft insertion width is 5%. The more preferable range of the weft insertion width varies depending on whether the false-twisted yarn used for the weft is a single-heater false-twisted yarn or a double-heater false-twisted yarn. This is due to the difference in the dry heat shrinkage of the false-twisted yarn itself and the dry heat shrinkage due to crimp development between the two false-twisted yarns. When a double-heater false-twisted yarn is used, a weft insertion width of 5 to 10% is preferred, while when a single-heater false-twisted yarn is used, a weft insertion width of 7 to 15% is preferred. If heat treatment is performed at a weft insertion width of less than 5%, the tissue shrinkage required to impart weft elongation is small, and a woven fabric with the elongation required for the present invention cannot be obtained. If heat treatment is performed at a weft insertion width of 15% or more, the fabric is not in a tensed state during the heat treatment, and is therefore heat-treated in a slack state, resulting in problems such as wrinkles, a strong surface unevenness, and bending of the weft yarn. This is undesirable.

The heat treatment of the woven fabric after weaving in the present invention has the effect of developing crimps in the false twist textured yarn used under tension, and at the same time heat-setting the developed crimps. If the false twist textured yarn is not sufficiently heat-set by this heat treatment, the texture of the fabric will shrink due to the development of crimps in the processes after the heat treatment (for example, scouring and dyeing processes), and the lining will develop wrinkles, lacking smoothness and having a rough, thick feel. The wrinkles developed at this stage cannot be completely eliminated even if the fabric is heat-treated under tension in the final finishing process. The heat treatment temperature for sufficient development of crimps and heat-setting is preferably 160°C to 210°C,
A more preferable range is 180° C. to 200° C. If the heat treatment temperature is less than 160° C., the false twist textured yarn will not develop crimp and will not be heat-set sufficiently, and crimping will occur again in subsequent scouring and dyeing processes, resulting in a lining with a strong grained texture and poor surface smoothness. If the heat treatment temperature exceeds 210° C., the fibers will be severely damaged by heat, and the mechanical properties of the lining will be reduced, and the woven fabric will tend to have a stiff texture.

The heat treatment time is required to fully develop crimp and heat set the false twisted polyester filament yarn used, and when the heat treatment temperature is high, the treatment time is short to avoid damage to the fiber, but when the treatment temperature is low, the treatment time is correspondingly long. The preferred heat treatment time is 15 to 60 seconds at 180 to 200°C.

The means for carrying out the heat treatment is not limited as long as it is an apparatus that can treat the fabric under tension in the warp and weft directions, but a pin tenter type beat setter with pins on both ends, which is commonly used in heat treatment of general fabrics, is preferred.

Scouring in the present invention is a process for removing spinning oil, warp yarn sizing agent, etc. adhering to the woven fabric after weaving, and the treatment liquid used in this scouring is preferably water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali. The scouring method is not limited. For scouring, it is preferable to use an open soaper type continuous scouring machine, a liquid flow type dyeing machine, a bath suspension type continuous processing machine, a winch dyeing machine, a soft cloth scouring machine, etc., which are commonly used in scouring of textiles.

If the fabric is subjected to a heat treatment at 160°C to 210°C after being width-set by 5 to 15% before scouring and then scouring is performed, the fabric will be supplied in a state in which the crimp of the false twist textured yarn has already been set, so the lining of the present invention can be obtained using any of the scouring machines described above, such as a liquid jet dyeing machine or a winch dyeing machine, which have a large relaxing effect.However, if the fabric is treated with a scouring machine that has a large relaxing effect before the width-set heat treatment and then heat-treated, the relaxation treatment will cause the crimp of the false twist textured yarn to become large, and the lining specified in the present invention cannot be obtained.

When scouring is performed before the width-setting heat treatment, it is preferable to use a device that can apply tension to the fabric in both the warp and weft directions, such as an open soaper-type continuous scouring machine. Scouring using a device that does not apply tension to the fabric in both the warp and weft directions, such as a liquid flow dyeing machine or a bath-suspended continuous processing machine, is not preferable because it will cause wrinkles to appear on the surface of the fabric. Even when scouring is performed using an open soaper-type continuous scouring machine, it is preferable to keep the processing temperature low, at 40 to 60°C, in order to minimize the occurrence of crimp in false-twist textured yarns. In this case, there is a possibility that the warp sizing agent and oil agent will not be sufficiently removed, so scouring may be performed again after the width-setting heat treatment.

A more preferable method for producing the lining of the present invention is to carry out a width-setting heat treatment before scouring. This method has the advantage that the object of the present invention can be achieved using any of the above-mentioned devices in the subsequent scouring, and in addition, a lining with excellent surface smoothness and small thickness can be obtained.

After the heat treatment using the method of the present invention, the fabric can be dyed and finished, which are common lining processing steps. To soften the feel, alkaline weight loss treatment can be performed before dyeing. Because the lining fabric of the present invention has stretch in the weft direction, even after alkaline weight loss treatment, seam slippage does not become a problem when worn.

The dyeing process of the lining made of 100% polyester long fiber of the present invention can be carried out in the same manner as the dyeing process of linings made of general polyester long fiber. For dyeing, a liquid jet dyeing machine, a jigger dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine, a winch dyeing machine, etc. can be used.
In terms of the quality of the dyed product, it is preferable to use a jet dyeing machine.
Like dyeing, this can be done in the same way as finishing linings made with general polyester filaments. It is important to note that the final finishing process involves a tentering heat treatment using a pin tenter or similar to remove wrinkles. If the tentering ratio is too large, the resulting lining will have low elongation compared to the desired weft elongation of the lining. For example, it is desirable to tenter the fabric by 1 to 3 cm from the width after dyeing, so that any wrinkles can be removed.
In this finishing step, finishing agents such as antistatic agents, water repellents, and sweat absorbents can be optionally added. In addition, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and texture of the woven fabric surface, calendering treatment can be optionally applied after the addition of the finishing agent.

In the dyeing process for the union lining made of the false twist textured yarn of cellulosic long fiber/polyester long fiber of the present invention, it is necessary to first carry out scouring and dyeing of the polyester long fiber in the same manner as above, and then to dye the cellulosic long fiber. The dyeing may be carried out using the same dyeing machine as that used to dye the polyester long fiber, or by the cold pad batch method, pad steam method or jigger method.

The finishing process after dyeing is the same as that of ordinary cellulose fibers.
Resin processing can be added as needed to improve the washing shrinkage rate and wet friction fastness.

[2] When the weft is made of polyester filament yarn: A preferred manufacturing method when the weft is made of polyester filament yarn will be described.

If polyester long fiber yarn (flat yarn) can be used as the weft thread to allow the fabric to stretch, a lining with an even softer feel, improved surface smoothness, less thickness, and better slipperiness can be obtained.

This method is based on the principle that by increasing the crimp rate of the weft yarn in the woven fabric structure at the grey fabric stage, the crimp of the weft yarn, which originally contributes to weft elongation, is large, and in addition, the entanglement force between the warp and weft yarns is weakened, thereby increasing the tissue shrinkage that contributes to weft elongation through width setting heat treatment.

The crimp rate of the weft yarn in the grey state must be 1.5% or more, preferably 2% or more. Conventional linings using polyester long fiber raw yarn for the weft yarn have a weft crimp rate of 1% or less, but the lining of the present invention can be achieved by using a raw yarn that is soft in bending and can obtain a weft crimp rate of 1.5% or more, and performing a width-setting heat treatment of 5 to 30%.

In particular, when a fabric in which a soft raw yarn is woven into the weft is heat-treated at 160°C to 210°C before or after scouring, with the width adjusted to 5 to 30% of the width of the fabric, a regular and strong crimp is formed in the weft, and the stretching of this crimp allows the lining to exhibit high weft elongation.

Moreover, because it uses raw yarn, there is no roughness or lack of smoothness even when you slide your hand in the warp direction.

A width-in heat treatment of 5 to 30% means that the difference between the warp density design during weaving and the warp density of the finished roll of the final product will be large, but the method of the present invention uses a fabric with a weft crimp rate of 1.5% or more at the green fabric stage, and sets the warp indentation to 5% or less, i.e., the width-in treatment is carried out in a state where the weft density is not increased as much as possible and the warp direction is more tense than the weft direction, which results in shrinkage of the fabric structure due to the increase in warp density.

In the present invention, width adjustment means that, for example, when heat-treating using a pin tenter-type heat setter, which is generally used as a heat treatment machine when processing woven fabrics, the woven fabric is heat-treated with both ends fixed after weaving or scouring, but the fixed width is narrower than the woven fabric width after weaving or scouring and the fabric is treated under more tension in the warp direction.

The width insertion ratio is in the range of 5 to 30%, more preferably in the range of 10 to 25%. The preferred range of the width insertion ratio varies depending on the bending flexibility of the raw yarn used for the weft. In addition, since it is also affected by the dry heat shrinkage rate of the raw yarn itself, it is important to select an optimal width insertion ratio within the range of 5 to 30% after examining the physical properties of the raw yarn.

If the width insertion rate is less than 5%, only a lining with a weft elongation of less than 5% can be obtained.
Linings with a weft stretch of less than 5% do not show significant seam slippage prevention effects and fall into the same category as conventional linings. If the width insertion ratio exceeds 30%, the fabric will not be in tension in the width direction, causing problems such as wrinkles in the fabric and large weft bends (weave distortion). In addition, the weft crimp will become too large, resulting in a lining with a raised weft structure. This results in a lining with a rough feel and poor comfort, which is undesirable.

In the present invention, the heat treatment of the woven fabric after weaving is an essential process from the viewpoint of ensuring an increase in the crimp of the weft yarn by shrinking the weft structure as designed and increasing the warp density, and of sufficiently heat-setting the weft yarn to form a strong crimp.

If the heat treatment does not sufficiently fix the weft yarn, the weft yarn itself will shrink when heat is applied in subsequent processes (such as scouring and dyeing), resulting in a lining with low stretch. Wrinkles may also occur. Wrinkles that occur at this stage cannot be completely eliminated, even if the fabric is heat-treated under tension in the final finishing process.

The heat treatment temperature at which tissue shrinkage and heat fixation can be sufficiently achieved is preferably 160°C to 210°C.
The heat treatment temperature is preferably 180°C to 200°C, and more preferably 180°C to 200°C. If the heat treatment temperature is less than 160°C, the heat setting of the weft yarns will be insufficient, resulting in problems such as insufficient weft elongation and wrinkles. If the heat treatment temperature exceeds 210°C, the warp yarns and weft yarns will be damaged by the heat, the mechanical properties of the lining will deteriorate, and the rigidity will increase, resulting in a lining with a hard texture.

The polyester filament yarn used for the weft is a yarn spun by the convex method, spin draw take-up method, high speed spinning method, etc., and is not subject to false twisting, pushing,
This yarn has not been subjected to crimping or bulking processes such as shaping, knit-de-knit, or fluid jet processing. However, this raw yarn may be interlaced or lightly twisted to increase the yarn's convergence. The polyester filament raw yarn is made of a fiber-forming polyester polymer selected from homopolyesters and copolymer polyesters, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate. This polyester polymer includes not only homopolymers but also copolymers. Additives such as antistatic agents, flame retardants, heat stabilizers, light stabilizers, and titanium oxide may be added to these polymers or copolymers. To achieve the bending stiffness and weft elongation of 5 to 12% for the lining of the present invention, it is preferable to use a flexible weft yarn.

When the raw yarn is composed of round cross-section single yarns, a smaller single yarn denier, i.e., a smaller single yarn diameter, is preferable because the weft yarn is softer in bending and is wound around the warp yarn to form a green fabric structure, resulting in greater weft crimp. For this reason, the use of multifilament raw yarn is desirable. The total denier of the raw yarn is preferably in the range of 30 to 100 denier, and the single yarn denier is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 3.0 denier. The range of 0.2 to 2.0 denier is even more preferable.

The cross section of the single yarn may be either round or irregular, and in the case of irregular cross sections, it may be polygonal, such as triangular, L-shaped, or Y-shaped, or may be multi-lobed, hollow, or irregular. Among irregular cross sections, flat or elliptical types, which are very flexible in a specific direction, are particularly preferred.

The flat type referred to here does not only include simple flat types, but also raw yarns having a cross-sectional structure that is substantially flat and flexible enough to bend in a specific direction, such as W-type, I-type, boomerang-type, wavy, and skewer-shaped.

The modified cross-section single yarn is preferably in the form of a multifilament to further increase bending flexibility. In the case of a flat or oval type, the single yarn denier is 0.5 to 1.0.
4. It is preferable to use raw yarn of 0.5 to 3 denier.

The raw yarn can achieve the lining of the present invention regardless of whether the cross section of the constituent single yarn is round or irregular, as long as the raw yarn can achieve a weft crimp rate of 1.5% or more, preferably 2% or more, at the grey fabric stage, and no specific conditions are required for the type of polymer or spinning method.

By using raw yarn that is soft to the touch, the lining has a bending strength of 0.
The sheet can have a soft feel and exhibit a bending hardness of 0.030 gf·cm ² /cm or less, or even 0.020 gf·cm ² /cm or less.

The heat treatment time for the present invention may be any time long enough to sufficiently shrink the fabric and heat fix the weft crimp. If the heat treatment temperature is high, the treatment time is short, taking into consideration damage to the warp and weft yarns, and if the heat treatment temperature is low, the treatment time is longer. The preferred heat treatment time is 15 to 60 seconds at 180 to 200°C. A general-purpose device that can treat the fabric under tension in the warp and weft directions can be used as the heat treatment device. A pin tenter-type heat setter with pins on both ends, which is commonly used for heat treatment of fabrics, is preferred.

Scouring in the present invention is a process for removing spinning oil, warp sizing agent, etc. adhering to the woven fabric after weaving, and the treatment liquid used in this scouring is preferably water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali. As the scouring method and operation, it is preferable to use an open soaper type continuous scouring machine, a liquid flow type dyeing machine, a suspended bath type continuous processing machine, a winch dyeing machine, a soft cloth scouring machine, etc., which are commonly used in scouring of textiles.

The lining can be manufactured using a process in which width setting heat treatment is performed before scouring, or conversely, a process in which width setting heat treatment is performed after scouring, but width setting heat treatment before scouring is preferred to obtain greater flexibility and higher weft elongation.

After the width-setting heat treatment and scouring are completed, the lining is dyed, which is a general processing step.
Finishing steps are applied.

To make the fabric softer, alkaline weight loss treatment may be carried out before dyeing. Generally, alkaline weight loss treatment contributes to improving the fabric's texture, but it also creates gaps between the warp and weft yarns, which inevitably increases the risk of seam slippage. However, the lining fabric of the present invention has stretch in the weft direction, so even after alkaline weight loss treatment, seam slippage is significantly reduced during actual wear.

The dyeing process for the lining made of 100% polyester long fiber is carried out using the conventional dyeing process for the lining made of polyester long fiber.
Although a jigger dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine, a winch dyeing machine, etc. can be used, from the viewpoint of the quality of the dyed product and cost, it is preferable to use a jet dyeing machine for dyeing.

For the finishing process after dyeing, the same processes commonly used in the manufacture of linings using polyester long fibers can be applied. However, care must be taken when using a pin tenter or other method for tentering heat treatment to remove wrinkles in the final finishing process, as too much tentering will result in a lining with low elongation. For example, it is necessary to tenter the fabric by 1 to 3 cm from the width after dyeing to remove wrinkles.

In this finishing process, additional finishing agents such as antistatic agents, water repellents, and sweat absorbents can be added. In addition, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and texture of the woven fabric surface, calendering treatment can be applied after the addition of the finishing agent.

In the dyeing process for a union lining made of cellulose long fiber/polyester long fiber raw yarn, the weft yarn of polyester long fiber is dyed after width adjustment and scouring in the same manner as above. Then, the cellulose long fiber is dyed. In this case, the dyeing may be performed using the same dyeing machine as that used for dyeing the polyester long fiber, or
It is also possible to dye using a different dyeing machine using the cold pad batch method, pad steam method or jigger method.

In the finishing process after dyeing, resin treatment can be added to improve the washing shrinkage rate and wet friction fastness, which are carried out in the processing of ordinary cellulose fibers.

[3] When the weft is made of cellulose-based long fibers When the weft is made of cellulose-based long fibers, a preferred method for producing the lining of the present invention will be described.

It is known that cellulose fiber fabrics undergo fiber swelling when immersed in water, resulting in tissue shrinkage of the fabric. The lining of the present invention is manufactured through a process that utilizes the principle of tissue shrinkage in the weft direction of the fabric by making the most of the swelling effect of cellulose fibers in water.

That is, water is added to a pre-scoured fabric in which the warp threads are polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers and the weft threads are cellulose long fibers, and then the fabric is heat-treated at 100°C to 210°C in a width that is 5 to 15% of the width of the weaving gray fabric, thereby obtaining a lining with a weft elongation of 5 to 12%.

The method of heat treatment for 5 to 15% width insertion is the same as that when the weft yarn is a false twisted yarn made of polyester long fiber or a raw yarn made of polyester long fiber.
The difference is that water is added to the grey fabric before the width setting heat treatment.

Cellulose long fibers, such as cuprammonium rayon and viscose rayon, have a larger amount of amorphous parts than natural cellulosic fibers such as cotton, and the rate of change in fiber diameter due to swelling when immersed in water is large, so that they are prone to tissue shrinkage. However, by subjecting the fibers to width setting treatment at a higher temperature in a state where they are swollen and prone to tissue shrinkage, it is possible to prepare a cellulose long fiber woven fabric having the specified weft elongation of the present invention.

Examples of cellulose long fibers used for weft yarns include cuprammonium rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, and cellulose acetate fibers. Cuprammonium rayon and viscose rayon, which have a large degree of swelling when immersed in water, are particularly preferred cellulose fibers because they can easily produce fabrics with a high weft elongation. In the case of fibers with a small degree of swelling when immersed in water, a compound that improves the swelling degree, as described below, can be added to the immersion liquid to achieve the desired swelling effect.

When cuprammonium rayon, viscose rayon, or polynosic rayon is used for the weft, the lining of the present invention cannot be obtained without a water-adding treatment step. In the case of cellulose acetate fiber, the addition of water gives a large elongation, but it is also possible to obtain a lining fabric having a weft elongation of 5 to 8% even without the addition of water.

The cellulose-based long fiber used has a single yarn of 0.5 to 10 denier, preferably 0
30 to 120 denier, preferably 50 to 100 denier, composed of 5 to 5 denier
It is preferable to use untwisted raw yarn of 100 denier, interlaced yarn for converging untwisted yarn, or raw yarn with a light twist (about 10 to 200 T/M), but there is no problem if the yarn has been subjected to a crimping bulk processing such as false twist processing or air injection processing.

To add water to a greige fabric before scouring, a method that can apply water uniformly to the fabric is used. Suitable methods include immersion, spraying, and kiss-rolling, but considering the stability of the water-adding process and processing costs, immersion is preferred. The immersion method allows for easy and uniform application of water to a running fabric continuously in a water tank or the like, usually in about 1 to 30 seconds. To further increase the swelling of the cellulose-based long fibers, about 0.5 to 10 wt % of an alkaline compound such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or sodium carbonate can be added to the water tank.
The temperature of the water immersion bath is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of room temperature to 100°C.

After adding water, it is preferable to add a draining device such as a mangle between the immersion tank and the heat treatment machine to remove excess water from the surface of the fabric before the continuous width-setting heat treatment in order to stabilize the quality.

After adding water, when heat-treating is performed using, for example, a pin tenter type heat setter that is generally used as a heat-treating machine when processing woven fabrics, both ends of the woven fabric after weaving or scouring are fixed and heat-treated while being tensioned in the warp direction, and the fixed width becomes a woven fabric with a width narrower than the woven fabric width after weaving.

In the present invention, the width adjustment ratio is in the range of 5 to 15%, more preferably 6 to 13%.
% range. The preferred range of the width insertion ratio varies depending on the type of cellulose long fiber used for the weft. The optimum width insertion ratio is selected within the range of 5 to 15% depending on the swelling degree of the cellulose long fiber used when immersed in water. If the width insertion ratio is less than 5%, only a lining with a weft elongation of less than 5% can be obtained. If the width insertion ratio exceeds 15%, there is a risk of wrinkles in the woven fabric or the ground loop of the weft thread being significantly bent (weave bending), or the weft thread may become too crimped and stand up,
This results in a rough, uncomfortable lining.

Heat treatment of the grey fabric after weaving is necessary to dry the swollen cellulose long fibers all at once, shrink the weft structure as designed, and increase the warp density. This is a crucial process as it ensures an increase in the crimp of the weft.
If the weft yarn is not dried instantly during this heat treatment process, it will shrink, resulting in a lining with low stretch. It will also cause wrinkles. Wrinkles that occur at this stage cannot be completely removed even if the fabric is heat treated under tension during the final finishing process.

The heat treatment temperature for sufficient shrinkage and heat setting is preferably 100° C. to 210° C., more preferably 130° C. to 200° C. If the heat treatment temperature is less than 100° C., the swollen weft yarns will not dry instantly, resulting in insufficient weft elongation and the likelihood of wrinkles. If the heat treatment temperature exceeds 210° C., the warp and weft yarns will be damaged by heat, increasing their rigidity and resulting in a lining with a hard texture and reduced mechanical properties.

The heat treatment time of the present invention is a time that allows sufficient shrinkage of the fabric. When the heat treatment temperature is high, the treatment time should be short, taking into consideration damage to the warp and weft yarns, and when the heat treatment temperature is low, the treatment time should be longer. The preferred heat treatment time is 15 to 180 seconds at 130 to 200°C.

The heat treatment device used is one that can treat the fabric under tension in both warp and weft directions.
A pin tenter type heat setter having pins on both ends, which is commonly used in the heat treatment of textiles, is preferred.

The fabric that has been subjected to the water application and width setting heat treatment is then scoured in order to remove spinning oil, warp yarn sizing agent, etc. adhering to the fabric. The treatment liquid used in the scouring process is preferably water or an aqueous solution containing a surfactant and an alkali. Machines commonly used in scouring fabrics include, but are not limited to, open soaper type continuous scouring machines, liquid flow type dyeing machines, sub-bath suspension type continuous processing machines, winch dyeing machines, and soft cloth scouring machines.
Considering productivity and the occurrence of wrinkles during processing, it is preferable to use an open soaper type continuous scouring machine or a jigger dyeing machine as the scouring machine.

The scoured fabric is finished into a lining optionally subjected to general processing for linings using cellulosic long fibers. The dyeing method, which is one of the methods, is not particularly limited, and the dye and dyeing method to be used may be appropriately selected from jet dyeing, jigger dyeing, beam dyeing, cold pad batch dyeing, pad steam dyeing, pad roll dyeing, etc. depending on the type of cellulosic long fibers used for the warp and weft.

When the warp yarn is a polyester long fiber and the weft yarn is a cellulosic long fiber, the same dyeing machine as above can be used. However, the cellulosic long fiber may be dyed using the same dyeing machine as that used to dye the polyester long fiber, or the cellulosic long fiber may be dyed using a different dyeing machine using the cold pad batch method, pad steam method, or jigger method.

In the finishing process after dyeing, it is preferable to add a resin treatment, which is generally used in the processing of cellulose fibers, to improve the washing shrinkage rate and wet friction fastness.
However, in the final finishing process, a pin tenter or other heat treatment is carried out to remove wrinkles, but if the degree of tentering is too large, the lining will have low elongation, so care must be taken. For example, a treatment is applied in which the width is extended by 1 to 3 cm from the width after dyeing, to the extent that wrinkles are removed.

In this finishing step, finishing agents such as antistatic agents, water repellents, and sweat absorbents may be added. Furthermore, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and texture of the woven fabric surface, calendering treatment may be carried out after the addition of the finishing agent.

The lining of the present invention, which uses cellulose-based long fibers as the weft yarn, has a weft stretch of 5 to 12% and a woven structure that is less likely to cause tissue shrinkage due to the large crimp of the weft yarn, so it is a lining that shows little dimensional change even when laundered at home and has excellent wrinkle resistance.

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[Example]

The numerical values and product characteristics in the examples were evaluated using the following criteria.

(1) Measurement of weft elongation of woven fabric Using a KES-FB1 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a 20 cm × 20 cm woven fabric was stretched in the weft direction at a tensile speed of 0.2 mm/sec, and the elongation S (%) under a stress of 500 g/cm was calculated using the following formula: where A is the length stretched under 500 g/cm (cm), and B is the original length of the woven fabric (20 cm).

S (%) = (A/B) x 100 (2) Measurement of dynamic friction coefficient Using KES-SE manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a friction surface dimension of 1 cm x 1 cm was measured.
A cotton cloth of refined gold cloth No. 3 was attached to a friction element of 25 g, and the friction was
The test piece was slid over the surface of the fixed lining at a speed of 1000 kJ/min, and the coefficient of dynamic friction (μ) was calculated from the frictional resistance force measured at that time using the following formula: where A is the average value of the frictional resistance force (g),
B represents the weight (g) of the friction element.

μ=A/B In the present invention, the average value of the coefficient of friction when the lining is slid in the warp direction and the coefficient of friction when the lining is slid in the weft direction is taken as the dynamic coefficient of friction of the lining.

(3) Measurement of crimp rate of weft yarn The crimp rate of the weft yarn was determined by marking 20 cm in the weft direction of the grey fabric or the dyed and finished fabric, disassembling the fabric, taking out the weft yarn, applying a load of 0.1 g/d to the weft yarn, measuring the length S cm at that time, and calculating it using the following formula.

Weft crimp rate (%) = {(S - 20) / 20} x 100 (4) Density of warp and weft yarns in fabric Weave density was calculated by counting the number of warp yarns per inch of fabric width (threads/inch).

(5) Warp Fineness The warp fineness (denier: d) of a woven fabric was determined by preparing two 90 cm long samples under a load of 0.1 g/d on the warp yarns of the woven fabric, determining their weights W (g), and using the following formula:

(6) Bending stiffness of fabric in the weft direction Using KES-FB2 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., a fabric having a warp of 20 cm and a weft of 20 cm was held at an effective sample length of 20 cm and a weft of 1 cm, and the maximum curvature was ±2.5 ^cm .
When bent under the condition of a bending deformation rate of 0.50 cm ⁻¹ , the curvature was +0.5 and +1
Bending moment per unit width of 5 cm ^-1 (front side bending) (gf cm/cm
m) divided by the curvature (1 cm ^{−1 )} (gf·cm ² /cm) and the bending moment per unit width (gf·cm
/cm) divided by the curvature ( ¹ cm ⁻¹ ).

(7) Evaluation of the surface and appearance of the fabric: Evaluation was made visually and by touch, focusing on the appearance of wrinkles, grain, etc.

Excellent: Surface and appearance are excellent.

Good: Surface properties and appearance are good.

△: Surface property and appearance are somewhat poor.

×: poor surface and appearance.

(8) Evaluation of the texture of the fabric: This was judged by sensory evaluation when touching the fabric with the hands.

⊚: Very good texture and no thickness.

○: Good texture and thickness.

△: The texture is slightly hard and thick.

×: The texture is hard and the thickness is large.

(9) Evaluation of seam slippage A wool outer fabric (twill fabric, weight 290) with warp/weft stretch of 15%/10% was used.
A tight skirt (pattern was created with a 5% allowance for body measurements, but no lining was added) was made from a fabric (weight: 0.55 g/ ^m² , thickness: 0.55 mm, warp/weft density: 88/71 threads) using the fabric produced in the Examples as the lining, and the degree of seam slippage after four weeks of wear was evaluated. The evaluation method was to apply a load of 0.5 kg/2.54 cm, and read the maximum value of slippage on both sides of the seam, and this was taken as seam slippage.

(10) Evaluation of Wearing Comfort: The outer fabric of the fabric is made of wool with a warp/weft stretch of 15%/10% (twill fabric, weight 29
A tight skirt (pattern was created with a 5% allowance for body measurements, but no lining was added) was produced using the fabric produced in the examples (weight: 0.0 g/ ^m² , thickness: 0.55 mm, warp/weft density: 88/71 threads) as the lining, and the wearing comfort of the skirt when worn by a monitor was judged by sensory evaluation.

◎: Extremely comfortable to wear.

○: Comfortable to wear.

△: Feels slightly uncomfortable to wear.

×: Feels uncomfortable to wear.

(11) Method for measuring clothing pressure Using a clothing pressure measuring device (model: AMI3037-10) manufactured by AMI Co., Ltd., 10 sensors were attached, five on each side of the left and right kidneys, and the subject was wearing the tight skirt used to evaluate wearing comfort, and the clothing pressure was measured when squatting, and the average value of the 10 measurements was calculated as the clothing pressure.

In the following Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7, examples of plain weave fabrics in which the weft yarn is a false twist textured polyester filament yarn are described.

[Example 1] 50d/24f polyethylene terephthalate warp yarn, 75d/36f weft yarn
Polyethylene terephthalate 2-heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3350T/M
, the first heater temperature 220°C, the second heater temperature 180°C, the second heater zone feed rate +20%), and the warp density 100 threads/inch and the weft density 81
A plain weave greige machine having threads/inch, a basis weight of 50 g/m ² and a fabric width of 131.5 cm after weaving was woven.

The grey fabric was pin tentered at 190°C for 30 seconds, and the width of the grey fabric was 5 times the width of the fabric.
% width adjustment. Next, using an aqueous solution containing 2 g/L sodium carbonate and 2 g/L Scoreol (manufactured by Kao Corporation), the fabric was scouring-treated in a jet dyeing machine at 130°C for 10 minutes. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed in the jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, and after reduction washing, a dyed fabric was obtained. This dyed fabric was finished under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

Example 2 A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the width adjustment during the heat treatment was changed to 10%.

[Example 3] A single heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3300 T/M, false twist heater temperature 220°C) was used with a 50d/24 polyethylene terephthalate warp yarn and a 75/36f polyethylene terephthalate weft yarn, and the warp density was 121 threads/inch and the weft density was 82
A plain weave greige fabric having threads/inch, a basis weight of 59 g/m ² and a greige width of 123.0 cm was woven.

The green fabric was pin tentered at 190°C for 30 seconds, with 5 sheets per width of the green fabric.
% width adjustment was carried out. Next, the width adjusted woven fabric was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3, and then subjected to alkali weight reduction processing under the conditions shown in Table 4. The alkali weight reduction processed woven fabric was subjected to the same dyeing and finishing processing as in Example 1 to obtain a lining.

Example 4 A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the width adjustment rate was changed to 10%.

[Example 5] The greige fabric obtained in Example 3 was first subjected to continuous scouring using an open soaper type as shown in Table 3. However, the scouring temperature and hot water washing temperature were both lowered to 50°C. Subsequently, the resulting scoured fabric was pin-stentered at 190°C for 30 seconds at a setting of 10% of the width of the greige fabric, and then dyed in the same manner as in Example 3.

Example 6 The same procedures as in Example 3 were carried out except that the width adjustment during the heat treatment was changed to 15%.

Example 7 The same procedures as in Example 1 were carried out except that the heat treatment was carried out at 180° C. for 60 seconds.

[Example 8] 50d/30f cuprammonium rayon fiber for warp and 75d/36 for weft
Polyethylene terephthalate single heater false twist textured yarn (f false twist number 3300T/
M, heater temperature 220°C) and a warp density of 131 threads/inch and a weft density of 8
A plain weave grey fabric having 2 threads/inch, a basis weight of 63 g/m ² and a width of 132.0 cm was woven.

This grey fabric was subjected to width reduction of 10% of the width of the grey fabric at 190°C for 30 seconds, followed by desizing and scouring under the conditions shown in Table 3, dyeing under the conditions shown in Table 5, and then resin finishing under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining fabric.

[Example 9] 75d/33f viscose rayon filament warp yarn and 75d/36f weft yarn
Polyethylene terephthalate 1 heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3300T/M
, heater temperature 220°C) and a warp density of 115 threads/inch and a weft density of 82
A plain weave fabric was woven with threads per inch and a greige width of 132.0 cm.

This greige fabric was subjected to a width adjustment of 10% of the greige width at 190°C/30 seconds, and then desizing, scouring, dyeing and resin processing in the same manner as in Example 8 to produce a lining.

[Example 10] One-heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3300 T/M,
1 heater temperature 220°C) and a warp density of 121 threads/inch and a weft density of 8
A plain weave fabric having 2 threads/inch, a basis weight of 59 g/m ² and a grey width of 123.0 cm was woven.

This greige fabric was width-sizing, scouring, dyeing and finishing processed under the same conditions as in Example 3 to obtain a lining.

Example 11 Using the greige fabric obtained in Example 10, a lining was prepared by applying width setting, scouring, dyeing and finishing processes under the same conditions as in Example 4.

[Comparative Example 1] The fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the heat treatment before scouring was not carried out. The finished width of the obtained lining fabric was 101 cm, and the width change rate from the woven fabric width after weaving was 23%.

[Comparative Example 2] The greige fabric (131.5 cm) woven in Example 1 was scoured in a jet dyeing machine at 130°C for 10 minutes using the same scouring solution as in Example 1, and then heat-treated in a pin tenter at 190°C for 30 seconds at a width of 10% of the woven fabric width (118.4 cm). Subsequent dyeing and finishing processes were as follows:
The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out to obtain a lining fabric.

Comparative Example 3: A fabric woven in the same manner as in Example 1 was used, except that the width was adjusted by 3%.
The same procedure was carried out to obtain a lining fabric.

Comparative Example 4 A lining fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a fabric woven in the same manner as in Example 3 was width-cut at 20%.

Comparative Example 5 A lining fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the heat treatment was changed to 150° C./2 minutes.

Comparative Example 6 A lining fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the heat treatment was carried out at 220° C. for 10 seconds.

[Comparative Example 7] A 50d/24f polyester filament (sheath-core structure antistatic yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75
A plain weave greige fabric was woven using d/36f polyester continuous fiber round cross section raw yarn with a warp density of 120 threads/inch, a weft density of 80 threads/inch, a basis weight of 50 g/m² ^{, and} a fabric width of 133 cm after weaving. The greige fabric was scoured under the conditions shown in Table 3. Thereafter, it was pre-set at 190°C for 10 seconds at a width of 123 cm (width insertion rate = 8%), and
The fabric was then dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and drying. Finishing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2.

The elongation and dynamic friction coefficient of the lining fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7
Fabric weft crimp index (crimp rate ÷ {(warp fineness d) ^1/2 × warp density})
The evaluation results for seam slippage, appearance, feel, bending stiffness, wearing comfort, and wearing pressure are shown in Table 7.

As is clear from Table 7, the lining of the present invention is extremely unlikely to cause seam slippage compared to the comparative examples, has good surface properties and excellent smoothness, exerts low pressure on the skin, and has a good texture.

The following Examples 12 to 18 and Comparative Examples 8 to 11 are examples of linings with a twill weave (2/1 twill weave) using false twist textured polyester filament yarn as the weft.

[Example 12] 50d/24f polyethylene terephthalate warp yarn, 75d/36f weft yarn
Polyethylene terephthalate 2-heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3350T/M
, the first heater temperature 220 ° C, the second heater temperature 180 ° C, the second heater zone feed rate + 20%), and the warp density 150 threads/inch, the weft density 82 threads/inch
A twill greige fabric having a weaving width of 132 cm after weaving was woven.

The greige fabric was subjected to a width adjustment of 12% of the width of the greige fabric using a pin tenter at 190°C for 30 seconds. Next, it was scoured using a jet dyeing machine at 130°C for 10 minutes with an aqueous solution containing 2 g/L sodium carbonate and 2 g/L scouring roll (Kao Corporation). It was then dyed using the jet dyeing machine under the conditions listed in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and drying. A lining was obtained by applying processing under the conditions listed in Table 2.

[Example 13] The same fabric as in Example 12 was used except that the warp density was 163 and the width change during heat treatment was 8%.
The same procedure as in Example 12 was carried out to obtain a lining.

[Example 14] Using the same yarns as in Example 12, a twill greige fabric was woven with a warp density of 125 threads/inch, a weft density of 85 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 132 cm. The greige fabric was then subjected to width setting, scouring, dyeing, and finishing processes under the same conditions as in Example 12 to obtain a lining.

[Example 15] One-heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3300 T/M,
A twill greige fabric having a warp density of 124 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a greige width of 123.0 cm was woven using a woven fabric (heater temperature 220°C).

The resulting woven fabric was tentered at 190°C for 30 seconds to a width of 15% of the green width. Next, it was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scourer under the conditions shown in Table 3. Thereafter, it was subjected to an alkali weight reduction process under the conditions shown in Table 4, and dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a lining.

Example 16 A lining was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 15, except that the width-cutting ratio was set to 8%.

[Example 17] 50d/30f cuprammonium rayon filament yarn for warp and 75d/3
6f polyethylene terephthalate 1 heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3300T
A twill greige fabric having a warp density of 170 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a greige width of 132.0 cm was woven using a 1000-kilometer weft yarn machine (1 heater temperature 220°C).

This greige fabric was subjected to width adjustment of 8% of the greige width at 190°C for 30 seconds, followed by desizing and scouring under the conditions shown in Table 3, dyeing under the conditions shown in Table 5, and resin finishing under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining.

[Example 18] One-heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3300 T/M,
A twill greige fabric having a warp density of 135 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a greige width of 132.0 cm was woven using a woven fabric (heater temperature 220°C).

The green fabric is subjected to a width adjustment of 15% of the green fabric width under the conditions of 190 ° C x 30 seconds,
Thereafter, desizing, scouring, dyeing and resin finishing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 17 to obtain a lining.

[Comparative Example 8] A lining fabric having a finished width of 106 cm was obtained by repeating all the steps of Example 1, except that the width insertion heat treatment before scouring was not carried out as in Example 12. This finished width had a standard weft insertion ratio of 20% for the grey fabric.

[Comparative Example 9] The greige fabric (132 cm) woven in Example 12 was scoured in a jet dyeing machine using the same scouring solution as in Example 1 at 130°C for 10 minutes, and then stentered in a pin tenter at 190°C for 30 seconds to a width (
The fabric was then dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 12 to obtain a lining.

Comparative Example 10 A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the greige fabric was width-shrunk by 3%.

[Comparative Example 11] 50d/24f polyester filament (sheath-core structure antistatic yarn) for warp, 75d
A twill fabric with a warp density of 150 threads/inch, a weft density of 82 threads/inch, and a woven width of 133 cm after weaving was woven using polyester long fiber round cross-section yarn of 36f. The resulting fabric was scoured under the conditions shown in Table 3. It was then pre-set at 190°C for 10 seconds at a width of 122 cm (width insertion rate = 8%), and subsequently dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1. It was then reduction washed to remove excess dye and dried. Finishing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and
Fabric weft crimp index (crimp rate ÷ {(warp fineness d) ^1/2 × warp density})
The evaluation results for seam slippage, appearance, feel, bending stiffness, wearing comfort, and wearing pressure are shown in Table 8.

As is clear from Table 8, the lining fabrics according to the examples of the present invention are extremely unlikely to slip off at the seams compared to the comparative examples, and also have good surface properties and good slipperiness, low pressure when worn, and a very soft feel.

The following Examples 19 to 24 and Comparative Examples 12 to 14 are examples of plain weave linings in which polyester continuous fiber yarns are used as weft yarns.

[Example 19] A 50d/24f polyester long fiber (antistatic yarn with a sheath-core structure) was used as the warp yarn, and a 50 denier 30 filament polyester long fiber W cross-section yarn was used as the weft yarn.
Warp thread density 120 threads/inch, weft thread density 100 threads/inch, fabric width after weaving 1
A plain weave fabric of 45.5 cm was woven, with the ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the W cross section yarn used as the weft being 3:1.

The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the grey woven fabric at this time was measured and found to be 3.8%. The grey woven fabric was placed in a pin tenter and the width of the fabric after weaving was adjusted by 15% to 190°C.
The fabric was scouring-treated under the conditions of 0°C/30 seconds. Scouring was carried out using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3. Then, dyeing was carried out using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and drying. Finishing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

[Example 20] A 50d/36f polyester filament (triangular cross section yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75d/
30f polyester long fiber W cross section yarn is used, warp yarn density is 120 threads/inch,
A plain weave grey fabric was woven with a weft density of 82 threads/inch and a fabric width of 145.5 cm after weaving. The length ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the W-section single yarn used as the weft was 3:1. The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the grey fabric at this stage was measured and found to be 1.9%. The resulting fabric was tentered at 190°C for 20% of the fabric width after weaving.
The fabric was then scoured using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3. The fabric was then subjected to an 8% alkali weight reduction process under the conditions shown in Table 4, followed by dyeing using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1. The fabric was then subjected to reduction washing to remove excess dye and dried. Finishing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

[Example 21] A 50 denier 24 filament polyester filament (sheath-core structure antistatic yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75 denier 72 filament polyester multifilament was used as the weft yarn. The warp density was 120 threads/inch, the weft density was 82 threads/inch, and the width of the woven fabric was 1
A plain weave greige fabric of 45.5 cm was woven. The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the greige fabric was measured and found to be 1.6%.

The gray fabric was pin tentered to a width of 15% of the width of the fabric after weaving.
The fabric was scouring at 0°C for 30 seconds under the conditions shown in Table 3 using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine. The fabric was then dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and drying. The fabric was finished under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

[Example 22] The same procedure as in Example 20 was repeated except that the warp density of the greige fabric was 90 threads/inch.
The fabric was dyed and finished under the same conditions as in (1) (except for the weight reduction process) to obtain a lining. The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the greige fabric was 1.7%.

[Example 23] A 50d/30f cuprammonium rayon filament yarn was used as the warp yarn and a 75d/30f weft yarn was used as the weft yarn.
A plain weave greige fabric was woven using polyester long fiber W cross section yarn f with a warp density of 131 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a greige width of 132.0 cm. The ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the single yarn cross section of the W cross section yarn used as the weft was 3:1. The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the greige fabric was 2.0%.

The greige fabric was subjected to weft insertion of 20% of the fabric width at 190°C for 30 seconds, followed by desizing and scouring under the conditions shown in Table 3. Subsequently, polyester fibers were dyed and reduction washed under the conditions shown in Table 12, and then cuprammonium rayon fibers were dyed under the conditions shown in Table 11 and resin-finished under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining.

Example 24 A plain weave greige fabric was woven using 50 denier 30 filament cuprammonium rayon long fibers for the warp and 75 denier 30 filament polyester long fiber W-section raw yarn for the weft, with a warp density of 145 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a greige width of 132.0 cm. The W-section yarn used for the weft had a length ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the single yarn cross section of 3:1. The weft crimp rate of this greige fabric was 2.2%. The greige fabric was subjected to width adjustment of 20% of the fabric width at 190°C for 30 seconds, desizing and scouring under the conditions shown in Table 3, and then dyed and resin-finished under the same conditions as in Example 23 to obtain a lining.

[Comparative Example 12] A 50d/24f polyester filament (sheath-core structure antistatic yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75
A plain weave grey fabric was woven using d/36f polyester continuous fiber round cross section yarn with warp and weft densities of 120 ends/inch and 80 ends/inch, respectively, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm. The crimp rate of the weft yarn of this grey fabric was 0.8%.

The gray fabric was pin tentered to a width of 15% of the width of the fabric after weaving.
Next, an aqueous solution containing 2 g/L of sodium carbonate and 2 g/L of Scoroll (manufactured by Kao Corporation) was used to dye the fabric for 130 seconds using a jet dyeing machine.
The fabric was then dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, then reduced and washed to remove excess dye, and dried. The fabric was then finished under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

Comparative Example 13 A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 20, except that the width reduction rate during the heat treatment before scouring was set to 4%.

Comparative Example 14 A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 19, except that the width reduction ratio before scouring was set to 35%.

The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft crimp index (crimp rate/{(warp fineness d) ^1/2 × warp density} of the fabrics obtained in Examples 19 to 24 and Comparative Examples 12 to 14 were calculated.
The evaluation results for seam slippage, appearance, feel and wearing comfort are shown in Table 9.

As is clear from Table 9, the lining fabric of the present invention is extremely unlikely to slip along the seams compared to the comparative examples, and has a reduced dynamic friction coefficient, great slipperiness, and an improved texture that is very soft.

The following Examples 25 to 31 and Comparative Examples 15 to 17 are examples of woven fabrics with a twill weave (2/1 twill with a right-upward slope) in which polyester continuous fiber yarn is used as the weft yarn.

[Example 25] A 50d/24f polyester filament (antistatic yarn with a sheath-core structure) was used as the warp yarn, and a 5
Using 0d/30f polyester long fiber W cross section raw yarn, warp density 150/
A twill greige fabric was woven with a weft density of 100 threads/inch and a fabric width of 145.5 cm after weaving. The ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the single yarn cross section of the W cross section yarn used for the greige weft was 3:1. The crimp rate of the weft of the greige weave was measured and found to be 3.
It was 1%.

The gray fabric was pin tentered to a width of 17% of the width of the fabric after weaving.
The fabric was then scouring-treated under the conditions of 0°C/30 seconds. Next, the fabric was scouring-treated using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3. After that, the fabric was dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and drying. Finishing-treatment was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

[Example 26] A 50d/36f polyester filament (triangular cross section yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75d/
A twill weave was produced using 30f polyester continuous fiber W cross section raw yarns with a warp density of 150 threads/inch, a weft density of 82 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm after weaving. The length ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the single yarn cross section of the W cross section yarn used as the weft was 3:1.
At this stage, the crimp rate of the weft yarn of the greige fabric was measured and found to be 1.8%.

The gray fabric is pin tentered to a width of 190 mm, 20% of the width of the fabric after weaving.
The fabric was then scouring-treated under the conditions of 0.5 °C/30 seconds. Next, the fabric was scouring-treated using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3. After that, the fabric was dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and drying. Finishing-treatment was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining fabric.

[Example 27] A 75d/24f polyester filament (sheath-core structure antistatic yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75
A twill weave was woven using d/72f polyester multifilament with a warp density of 124 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm after weaving. The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the weft fabric at this stage was measured and found to be 2.0%.
It was.

The grey fabric is pin tentered at 190°C for 15% of the width of the woven fabric.
/30 seconds. Next, scouring was carried out using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3. Thereafter, dyeing was carried out using a liquid jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and adjust the pH of the fabric, and drying. Finishing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

[Example 28] The warp density of Example 25 was 105 threads/inch, and the width insertion rate during heat treatment was 23%.
A lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 25, except that the crimp rate of the weft yarn of the greige fabric was measured and found to be 2.8%.

[Example 29] A twill weave was woven using the same yarns as in Example 26, with a warp density of 160 threads/inch, a weft density of 85 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 132 cm. The fabric was then subjected to width setting, scouring, dyeing, and finishing processes under the same conditions as in Example 26 to produce a lining. The crimp rate of the weft yarns of the greige fabric was measured and found to be 1.6%.

[Example 30] The desizing and scouring woven fabric obtained in Example 26 was subjected to an 8% alkali weight reduction process under the conditions shown in Table 4, and then dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 26 to obtain a lining.

Example 31 A twill weave was woven using 50 denier 30 filament cuprammonium rayon long fibers for the warp and 75 denier 30 filament polyester long fiber W-section raw yarn for the weft, with a warp density of 131 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a width of 132.0 cm. The ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the cross section of a single weft yarn was 3:1. The crimp rate of the weft of the greige fabric was measured and found to be 1.7%.

The greige fabric was subjected to a width adjustment of 20% of the fabric width under the conditions of 190°C/30 seconds.
Thereafter, desizing and scouring were carried out under the conditions shown in Table 3, and then dyeing and resin processing were carried out under the same conditions as in Example 23 to obtain a lining.

[Comparative Example 15] A 50d/24f polyester filament (sheath-core structure antistatic yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75
Using d/36f polyester continuous fiber round cross section raw yarn, a twill weave was woven into a gray fabric with a warp density of 150 ends/inch, a weft density of 80 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145.5 cm after weaving. The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the gray fabric was measured and found to be 0.7%.

The grey fabric is pin tentered at 190°C for 15% of the width of the woven fabric.
The fabric was then scouring-treated under conditions of 10 seconds/30 seconds. Next, the fabric was scouring-treated using a jet dyeing machine with an aqueous solution containing 2 g/L sodium carbonate and 2 g/L Scoreol (Kao Corporation) at 130°C for 10 minutes. After that, the fabric was dyed using the jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye. Finishing-treatment was carried out according to the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

Comparative Example 16 A lining was prepared by processing a greige fabric in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the width reduction rate before scouring was set to 4%.

Comparative Example 17 A lining was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the width reduction rate before scouring in Example 25 was changed to 35%.

The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft crimp index (crimp rate/{(warp fineness d) ^1/2 × warp density} of the fabrics obtained in Examples 25 to 31 and Comparative Examples 15 to 17 were calculated.
The evaluation results for seam slippage, appearance, feel and wearing comfort are shown in Table 10.

As is clear from Table 10, the lining of the present invention is extremely unlikely to cause seam slippage compared to the comparative examples, and has a reduced dynamic friction coefficient, greatly improved slipperiness, and an extremely soft feel.

The following Examples 32 to 40 and Comparative Examples 18 and 19 are examples of preparing linings from plain woven fabrics in which the weft yarns are made of cellulosic long fibers.

[Example 32] 50d/30f cuprammonium rayon filament for warp, 75d/45f for weft
A plain weave grey fabric having a warp density of 130 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving was woven using cuprammonium rayon long fibers.

This greige fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, then squeezed to 65% in a drainer, and then continuously squeezed in a pin tenter at 190°C for 30 seconds to a width of 7% of the width of the woven fabric. Next, it was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scourer under the conditions shown in Table 3. Subsequently, it was dyed under the conditions shown in Table 11, and then resin-treated under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining.

[Example 33] 75d/45f cuprammonium rayon filament for warp and 100d/60 for weft
Using the cuprammonium rayon filaments, a plain weave grey fabric was woven with a warp density of 110 threads/inch, a weft density of 70 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 142 cm after weaving.

The grey fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a 65% squeeze rate using a drainer.
After that, the width of the fabric was continuously adjusted by a pin tenter to 190°C by 7% of the width of the gray fabric.
The test was carried out under the conditions of 100° C./30 seconds. Thereafter, the test was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 32, with scouring, dyeing and resin finishing carried out to prepare a lining.

[Example 34] A 50d/36f polyester filament (triangular cross section yarn) was used as the warp yarn, and a 75d/
Using 60f cuprammonium rayon filaments, a plain weave grey fabric was woven with a warp density of 131 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving.

The grey fabric is immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a 50% squeeze rate using a drainer.
After that, the width is continuously adjusted by a pin tenter, and the width is adjusted by 7% of the width of the fabric.
The test was carried out under the conditions of 00°C/30 seconds. Then, the fabric was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scourer under the conditions shown in Table 3. Subsequently, the fabric was dyed under the conditions shown in Table 5, and then the results were compared with those shown in Table 6.
Resin processing was carried out under the conditions described above to obtain a lining.

Example 35 A plain weave grey fabric was woven using 50d/20f viscose rayon long fibers as the warp and 75/33f viscose rayon long fibers as the weft, with a warp density of 127 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving.

The grey fabric is immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a 70% squeeze rate using a drainer.
After that, the fabric was continuously tentered at 190°C for 30 seconds at a width of 7% of the woven fabric width using a pin tenter. Next, the fabric was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scourer under the conditions shown in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed under the conditions shown in Table 11, and then resin-finished under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining.

[Example 36] 75d/33f viscose rayon filament warp yarn, 100d/44
Using f viscose rayon filaments, a plain weave fabric was woven with a warp density of 110 threads/inch, a weft density of 70 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving.

The resulting woven fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to 72% in a drainer. The fabric was then continuously squeezed in a pin tenter at 150°C for 30 seconds to a width of 7% of the woven fabric width. Subsequently, scouring, dyeing and resin finishing were carried out in this order under the same conditions as in Example 35 to obtain a lining.

[Example 37] A warp yarn and a weft yarn were both made of 75d/20f diacetate filaments, and the warp density was 103
A plain weave grey machine having a weft density of 80 ends/inch and a width of 132.0 cm was woven.

The greige fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a squeeze rate of 40 in a drainer.
%, the fabric was continuously tented in a pin tenter at 190°C for 30 seconds to a width of 7% of the woven fabric width. Next, the fabric was scoured in an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3. Subsequently, the fabric was dyed under the conditions shown in Table 12, and then finished under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a lining.

Example 38 A lining fabric was obtained by carrying out the same processing conditions as in Example 32, except that the warp density was changed to 150 threads/inch.

Example 39 A lining was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 32, except that the width-cutting ratio was 12%.

Example 40 A lining was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 32, except that the width-cutting ratio was 5%.

Comparative Example 18 The greige fabric obtained in Example 32 was tentered at 190° C. for 30 seconds to a width of 7% of the width of the fabric after weaving using a pin tenter.

The other conditions were the same as in Example 32 to obtain a lining.

Comparative Example 19 A lining was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 32, except that the width-increasing ratio was 4%.

Comparative Example 20 A lining was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 32, except that the width-increasing ratio was set to 17%.

The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft crimp index (crimp rate/{(warp fineness d) ^1/2 × warp density} of the fabrics obtained in Examples 32 to 40 and Comparative Examples 18 to 20 were calculated.
The evaluation results for seam slippage, appearance, feel and wearing comfort are shown in Table 13.

As is clear from Table 13, the linings of the present invention are much less susceptible to seam slippage than the comparative examples, have a smaller dynamic friction coefficient, and are significantly improved in slipperiness. The linings obtained in these examples also had excellent dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance after home laundering.

The following Examples 41 to 47 and Comparative Examples 21 to 23 are examples of linings made of woven fabrics with a twill weave (2/1 right-leaning twill) in which the weft yarn is made of raw yarn of cellulose-based long fibers.

[Example 41] 50d/30f cuprammonium rayon filament for warp, 75d/45f for weft
A twill greige fabric having a warp density of 166 ends/inch, a weft density of 82 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving was woven using cuprammonium rayon long fibers.

This greige fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a squeeze rate of 6 in a drainer.
After the width was adjusted to 5%, the width was continuously adjusted to 7% of the width of the woven fabric using a pin tenter under the conditions of 190° C./30 seconds.

Next, the fabric was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scourer under the conditions shown in Table 3. Thereafter, the fabric was dyed under the conditions shown in Table 11, and then resin-treated under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining.

[Example 42] 50d/30f cuprammonium rayon filament for warp, 75d/45f for weft
A twill weave was made using cuprammonium rayon long fibers with a warp density of 180 threads/inch, a weft density of 82 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving.

After the grey fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, it was dewatered by a dewatering device to a wringing rate of 65%, and then continuously subjected to a pin tenter at 170°C/
The treatment was carried out for 30 seconds. Subsequently, the fabric was refined, dyed and resin-treated under the same conditions as in Example 41 to obtain a lining.

[Example 43] 75d/45f cuprammonium rayon filament for warp and 100d/60 for weft
Using the cuprammonium rayon filaments, a twill fabric was woven having a warp density of 136 ends/inch, a weft density of 70 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 142 cm after weaving.

The fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a 65% squeeze rate using a drainer.
After that, the fabric was continuously tentered at 200°C for 30 seconds to a width of 10% of the width of the woven fabric.
The fabric was dyed and then resin-treated to obtain a lining.

[Example 44] 50d/36f polyester filament (triangular cross section yarn) for warp, 120d for weft
A plain weave grey fabric was woven using 72f cuprammonium rayon filaments with a warp density of 146 ends/inch, a weft density of 65 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving.

This greige fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, then squeezed to 52% in a drainer, and then continuously squeezed to 13% of the width of the woven fabric using a pin tenter at 190°C for 30 seconds. Next, it was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scourer under the conditions shown in Table 3. Subsequently, it was dyed under the conditions shown in Table 5 and resin-treated under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining.

[Example 45] 50d/20f viscose rayon filament warp yarn, 75d/33f weft yarn
A twill fabric having a warp density of 120 threads/inch, a weft density of 82 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving was woven using viscose rayon long fibers. The obtained greige fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then the wringing rate was increased to 71% using a drainer. Then, the fabric was continuously squeezed in a pin tenter at a width increase of 13% relative to the fabric width after weaving.
The test was carried out under the conditions of 90° C./30 seconds. Subsequently, the test was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 41, followed by scouring, dyeing and resin finishing to obtain a lining.

[Example 46] 75d/33f viscose rayon filament warp yarn, 100d/44
Using the viscose rayon filaments, a twill weave was woven on a grey fabric having a warp density of 136 ends/inch, a weft density of 71 ends/inch, and a fabric width of 145 cm after weaving.

The obtained grey fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a squeeze rate of 6 in a dewatering machine.
After the stentering was completed, the fabric was continuously tentered at 140°C for 120 seconds to a width of 7% relative to the width of the woven fabric. The tentered fabric was then scoured, dyed, and resin-treated under the same conditions as in Example 45 to obtain a lining.

Example 47 A lining was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 41, except that the width-increasing ratio was 12%.

Comparative Example 21 The greige fabric obtained in Example 41 was tentered at 190° C. for 30 seconds to a width of 7% of the width of the fabric after weaving using a pin tenter.

The other conditions were the same as in Example 41 to obtain a lining.

Comparative Example 22 A lining was obtained by processing under the same conditions as in Example 41, except that the width-cutting rate was set to 4%.

went.

Comparative Example 23 A lining was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 41, except that the width-increasing ratio was set to 17%.

The elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, and weft crimp index (crimp rate/{(warp fineness d) ^1/2 × warp density} of the fabrics obtained in Examples 41 to 47 and Comparative Examples 21 to 23 were calculated.
The evaluation results for seam slippage, appearance, feel and wearing comfort are shown in Table 14.

As is clear from Table 14, the lining of the present invention was extremely unlikely to cause seam slippage compared to the comparative example, and had a reduced dynamic friction coefficient and good slipperiness.

The following Examples 48 to 53 are examples of satin weave linings in which the weft yarn is a false twisted polyester filament yarn, a raw polyester filament yarn, and a cellulose filament yarn. All of the satin weave fabrics are satin weaves with a warp skip of 3 and a weft skip of 5.

[Example 48] 50d/24f polyethylene terephthalate warp yarn and 75d/36f weft yarn
Polyethylene terephthalate 1 heater false twist textured yarn (false twist number 3300T/M
, heater temperature 220°C) and a warp density of 250 threads/inch and a weft density of 85
A satin fabric having a width of 123.0 cm and a count per inch was woven.

The obtained green fabric was subjected to a width adjustment of 7% of the green fabric width using a pin tenter under the conditions of 190 ° C. × 30 seconds. Next, scouring was performed using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3.

Thereafter, the fabric was dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, and then reduced and washed to remove excess dye, followed by drying. Finishing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a satin woven lining.

Example 49 A lining was obtained by processing under the same conditions as in Example 48, except that the width-cutting ratio was changed to 13%.

[Example 50] A 50d/24f polyester filament (antistatic yarn with a sheath-core structure) was used as the warp yarn, and a 5
Using 0d/30f polyester long fiber W cross section raw yarn, warp density 210/
A fabric was woven with a weft density of 100 threads/inch and a width of 145 cm after weaving. The ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of the W-section single yarn cross section used for this weft was 3:1.
The crimp rate of the weft yarn of the greige fabric was 3.6%.

This gray fabric was pin tentered to a width of 15% of the width of the woven fabric after weaving.
The fabric was scouring-treated under the conditions of 0°C/30 seconds. Next, it was scouring-treated using an open soaper type continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3. Then, it was dyed using a jet dyeing machine under the conditions shown in Table 1, followed by reduction washing to remove excess dye and drying. Finishing-treatment was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a satin woven lining.

Example 51 A lining was obtained by processing under the same conditions as in Example 50, except that the width-cutting ratio was changed to 20%.

[Example 52] 75f/45f cuprammonium rayon filament for warp, 50d/30f for weft
A plain weave grey fabric having a warp density of 160 threads/inch, a weft density of 100 threads/inch, and a fabric width of 142 cm after weaving was woven using cuprammonium rayon long fibers.

This grey fabric was immersed in water at 25°C for about 5 seconds, and then squeezed to a squeeze rate of 68% in a drainer.
After that, the fabric was continuously tentered at 190°C for 30 seconds at a width of 7% of the woven fabric width using a pin tenter. Next, the fabric was scoured using an open soaper type continuous scourer under the conditions shown in Table 3, dyed under the conditions shown in Table 11, and then resin-treated under the conditions shown in Table 6 to obtain a lining.

Example 53 A lining was obtained by processing under the same conditions as in Example 52, except that the width-cutting ratio was changed to 13%.

The evaluation results of the elongation, dynamic friction coefficient, crimp rate ÷ {(warp fineness d) ^1/2 × warp density}, seam slippage, appearance, feel, and wearing comfort of the fabrics obtained in Examples 48 to 53 are summarized in Table 15.

As is clear from Table 15, the lining of the present invention was extremely unlikely to cause seam slippage compared to the comparative example, and had a reduced dynamic friction coefficient and good slipperiness.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The lining of the present invention can provide a stretchable lining made of polyester long fibers, cellulose long fibers, or a mixed fabric thereof, which has a stretch function that follows the stretchability of the outer fabric of clothing, preventing seams from slipping off, causing no feeling of pressure when worn, is soft and smooth, feels good against the skin, and can reduce the hems of skirts from slipping up.

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── Continued from the front page (81) Designated Countries EP(AT,BE,CH,CY, DE, DK, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, IE, I T, LU, MC, NL, PT, SE), OA (BF, BJ , CF, CG, CI, CM, GA, GN, GW, ML, MR, NE, SN, TD, TG), AP(GH, GM, K E, LS, MW, SD, SZ, UG, ZW), UA (AM , AZ, BY, KG, KZ, MD, RU, TJ, TM) , AL, AM, AT, AU, AZ, BA, BB, BG, BR, BY, CA, CH, CN, CU, CZ, DE , D K, EE, ES, FI, GB, GD, GE, GH, GM , HR, HU, ID, IL, IN, IS, JP, KE, KG, KR, KZ, LC, LK, LR, LS, LT, L U, LV, MD, MG, MK, MN, MW, MX, NO , NZ, PL, PT, RO, RU, SD, SE, SG, SI, SK, SL, TJ, TM, TR, TT, UA, U G, US, UZ, VN, YU, ZW (Note) This publication is based on the international publication of the International Bureau (WIPO). Please note that the effect of the international publication of the Japanese-language patent application (Japanese-language utility model registration application) related to this publication arises pursuant to Article 184-10, Paragraph 1 of the Patent Act (Article 48-13, Paragraph 2 of the Utility Model Act), and is unrelated to this publication.

Claims (12)

[Claims] [Claim 1] A lining fabric comprising warp yarns of polyester long fiber or cellulose long fiber, and weft yarns of polyester long fiber false twist textured yarn, polyester long fiber raw yarn, or cellulose long fiber, characterized in that the weft direction elongation of the fabric is 5 to 12%, the dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is in the range of 0.20 to 0.45, and the fabric weft crimp index value calculated by the following formula (1) is 0.003 to 0.013: Weft crimp ratio / {warp density x (warp fineness) ^1/2 } ... (1). [Claim 2] The fabric is a plain weave fabric, and the coefficient of dynamic friction of the fabric surface is 0.22 to 0.
45, and the value calculated by the formula (1) is 0.004 to 0.013. 3. The fabric is a twill fabric, and the coefficient of dynamic friction of the fabric surface is 0.20 to 0.
38, and the value calculated by the formula (1) is 0.003 to 0.011. 4. The fabric is a satin fabric, and the coefficient of dynamic friction of the fabric surface is 0.20 to 0.
3. The lining of claim 1, wherein the tensile strength is in the range of 0.35 and the fabric weft crimp value is 0.003 to 0.009. 5. A lining as claimed in any one of claims 1, 2, 3 and 4, characterized in that the bending stiffness of the fabric in the weft direction is 0.030 gf·cm ² /cm or less. [Claim 6] A lining described in any one of claims 1, 2, 3 and 4, characterized in that the weft yarn is a woven fabric composed of a false twisted yarn of polyester long fiber, and the bending stiffness of the woven fabric in the weft direction is 0.025 gf·cm ² /cm or less. [Claim 7] A lining as described in any one of claims 1, 2, 3 and 4, characterized in that the weft yarn is a woven fabric composed of polyester long fiber raw yarn, and the bending stiffness of the woven fabric in the weft direction is 0.020 gf·cm ² /cm or less. [Claim 8] A garment equipped with a lining according to any one of claims 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. [Claim 9] A method for manufacturing a lining described in any one of claims 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 7, characterized in that a grey fabric woven using polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers as the warp and polyester long fiber raw yarn as the weft is heat-treated at 160°C to 210°C in a width adjustment of 5 to 30% of the grey width before or after scouring. 10. A fabric woven using polyester long fiber or cellulose long fiber as the warp and polyester long fiber false twist textured yarn as the weft is subjected to a temperature of 160°C to 21°C in a state where the width is adjusted by 5 to 15% of the width of the grey fabric before or after scouring.
7. The method for producing a lining according to any one of claims 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out at 0°C. 11. A fabric woven using polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers as warp yarns and cellulose long fibers as weft yarns is subjected to a process of adding water to the fabric in a green state, and then heating the fabric at 100° C. to 210° C. in a state where the fabric is spun at a width of 5 to 15% of the green width.
6. A method for producing a lining according to any one of claims 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, characterized in that the lining is subjected to a heat treatment at 0.degree. C. [Claim 12] A method for manufacturing a lining as described in any one of claims 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, characterized in that a grey fabric woven using polyester long fibers or cellulose long fibers as the warp and cellulose acetate long fibers as the weft is heat-treated at 160°C to 200°C in a state where the width is adjusted to 5 to 15% of the grey width before scouring.