JPS59173368A - Cutting preparation - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cutting preparation method for manufacturing garments.

Traditionally, when mass-producing clothing industrially, the process from planning the design to actually cutting the fabric was a very complicated and time-consuming process. For example, as shown in Figure 1, once a design is decided, a pattern maker or
Drafting or Traping ([) raping] Creating a new pattern or modifying an existing pattern in consideration of material, design, etc. to create a modified pattern. In this way, a sample pattern (first pattern) is completed. Once the sample pattern is completed, sample cloth is procured,
A sample is produced. This sample will be displayed at exhibitions, etc., and it will be considered whether to mass produce it or not. It usually takes at least one month from the creation of the swarm pattern to the exhibition. Once it is decided whether to mass produce the product, the pattern and specifications (materials, quality products, etc.) are determined. There are also various problems that arise when industrialized, such as the number of cutting and sewing processes,
Corrections are made for mass production patterns, taking into account the difficulty of the sewing technique, machine information, materials, production volume, etc. This mass-produced pattern does not have a seam allowance, so after that,
Seam allowances are added as industrial patterns, and lining and interlining patterns are also created.

Furthermore, since only one center size is usually created as a sample pattern, the sizes are expanded by grading. This graded material is marked by computer or hand marking to determine the minimum length of the cloth used for one garment.
An estimate will be made. Marking (die-inserting) is the process of fitting an industrial pattern onto fabric or marking paper accurately and without waste on the fabric, and requires a high level of skill. In this way, the measuring length is determined by the completion of marking according to the industrial pattern, but in actual production, as shown in Figure 1, the fabric is ordered when mass production is decided. many. This is because fabrics for constant production are generally prepared by weaving or printing upon order, so it takes a considerable amount of time to prepare them. Sometimes, the order for the marking fabric is made once the sample is completed. After preparing the fabric and preparing the industrial pattern, the fabric is cut and sewn according to the industrial pattern.

In the conventional method, although the length required for cutting can only be calculated after marking, mass production is performed before marking, that is, when only the sample pattern has been completed. We are ordering the required length of fabric. For this reason, conventionally, the length of fabric that would be needed as a measuring tape has been ordered based on the experience and intuition of the person in charge, and as a result, there is a very large error in the amount of fabric that is actually needed. For example, when mass producing several hundred dishes (
For the 10th place (approximately 400 places), there is an increase or decrease of more than 20% in the number of successful applicants (the 20th place and the 30th place also have an increase/decrease). This ultimately leads to higher manufacturing costs and also leads to credit issues since it is not possible to produce the planned quantity.

In order to avoid the above-mentioned drawbacks, it would be better to create industrial patterns at an early stage, but creating industrial patterns requires labor and intensive grading, and for this reason. Also, since marking is done using the most compact pattern lamination device, taking into account the width of the fabric, direction of the fabric and design, pattern, size, production loft ratio, etc., it is difficult to do unless you are an expert. For example, FIG. 2 shows two sizes of clothing (size 7 and size 9) marked with industrial patterns, and those marked with diagonal lines in the same direction are of the same size. As shown in Figure 2, the patterns are placed very closely packed together to minimize the length of the pattern. It requires skill.Especially in women's clothing, there are many different designs, and the way the patterns are placed varies, making it extremely variable.

Therefore, the marking conditions vary greatly depending on the design, and it is difficult to perform marking without considerable experience. Therefore, it is actually difficult to create and mark an industrial pattern at the same time as creating a sample pattern.

An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems and to perform cutting preparation in a rational and planned manner.

More specifically, the object is to provide a cutting preparation method that allows the cutting length to be determined with high accuracy before actually marking based on an industrial pattern.

The purpose of the present invention is to create a lean pull pattern with a desired design, measure the actual dimensions of the sample pattern, and calculate the length for the number of people required based on the measured data. This step is achieved by a cutting preparation method comprising a fabric preparation step of preparing the required length of fabric according to the result obtained by calculating the length of the fabric and preparing it for cutting.

Hereinafter, the invention will be described in detail based on the embodiments shown in the drawings.

In the embodiment shown in FIG. 3, a sample pattern is first created based on the planned tenine.

Next, the actual area of the sample pattern is measured using a suitable area measuring device such as a phototube.

Next, the measuring length is calculated based on the above-mentioned measured data.

Find the total area of items not included in the sample pattern. That is, the total area of the seam allowance and the area E of parts that are not created as sample patterns is determined. The actual measured total area of the parts created as a sample pattern. If the sample pattern is for one body, double the actual measured value.) C and the total area α of the parts not included in the sample pattern are those actually used for the garment. The actual area will be A. This actual area A corresponds to the shaded area in FIG. Is the seam allowance area one of the areas that is not included in the sample pattern? For example, this seam allowance area is for several types of patterns including design variations for each item (for example, scarves 1~, blouses, etc.) The data of measuring the seam allowance (seam allowance pattern area - no seam allowance area) of each part is accumulated, the average value of this data is calculated, and the average value of the seam allowance area of each part for each item is calculated. It is used as a substitute value for area calculation. Further, instead of finding the average value as the seam allowance area, it may be found by multiplying the above-mentioned actually measured area by a predetermined coefficient. For parts that are not created at the time of sample pattern production, data measuring the area including the seam allowance may be accumulated, the average value of the data may be determined, and the average value may be used in calculations as a representative value for each part. Parts that are not created during the sample pattern include pocket inner fabric, shoulder butt, front bag fabric, and bead fabric, but these areas do not change much depending on the design, so they are relatively accurate.

Next, the loss area B varies depending on design information such as the type of item, the grain of the ground in the design, the necessity of pattern matching, the directionality of the physical properties of the fabric, the width of the fabric, etc. Also, any flaws that appear on the fabric should be considered as losses.

To do this, a representative value (average value) of the yield (ratio of actual area to total fabric area) is determined based on past production data, for example, by item, marking method, fabric width, etc. The loss area is calculated by finding the loss rate (ie, 100-yield%) based on the representative value of the yield. Then, the ratio of the loss area to the actual area (
The coefficient β%) is determined in advance.

By multiplying the actual area A obtained by summing the total area B actually measured by the sample pattern and the area α of the area not included in the sample pattern by the loss coefficient β,
The loss area C is 81 pieces. In other words, the loss area is (β
/100) x real part Fi A.

Furthermore, sample patterns are usually made in one central size, but in mass production, several sizes are usually produced at the same time. In this case, for example, as shown in FIG. 2, two or more sizes are generally taken at the same time to increase the overall yield. However, if the size is biased toward a specific size, the yield may vary depending on the size. The loss area can be calculated taking this point into consideration.

The required length is obtained by adding up the total area C of the parts of the sample pattern actually measured, the total area α and loss area B of the parts not included in the sample pattern, and further dividing this total area by the width of the fabric.

Prepare fabric for the number of people who need it based on the length calculated as described above. This fabric is then rolled out, marked using an industrial pattern, and cut. After the cutting process,
Clothes are manufactured through the usual sewing process.

In the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, instead of measuring the actual area of the sample pattern, the actual distance between predetermined locations on the sample pattern is measured. For example, the distance between the centers of each part of the sample pattern, for example, at two locations, is measured. Calculate the distance based on this measured distance. In this case, since there is generally a correlation between distance and area, data for determining the relationship between distance and area is accumulated for each part in advance, and the area is calculated from the actual distance measured based on this accumulated data. Calculate the area of the sample pattern. After calculating the area of the sample pattern, calculate the actual area and loss area using the area of parts not included in the sample pattern, seam allowance area, yield data of the process, etc. in the same way as shown in Figure 3. and output the required length. Then, the fabric is prepared in the same manner as in the embodiment shown in FIG. 3 and sent to the cutting process.

FIG. 5 shows the concept of the area of the scale, and the area indicated by A corresponds to the actual area, that is, the area indicated by diagonal lines in FIG. The actual area A includes a total area C of the parts of the sample pattern (if the sample pattern is a single body, double the area) and an area α that is not calculated in the sample pattern. There is an area α that does not fit into the sample pattern.This is the seam allowance area, but there is an area E of parts that are not created when making the sample pattern. Further, the loss area B corresponds to the white portion in FIG.

According to the present invention, the length can be accurately estimated at the time the sample pattern is created. Therefore, the accuracy of mass production cost estimation is considerably high, and production can be carried out in a rational and planned manner.Furthermore, since the length can be calculated early on, orders for fabric production can be placed quickly. It is possible to shorten the time from creation to cutting. In addition, the length of the fabric for each garment is accurate,
Therefore, since the yield is also increased, it is possible to lower production costs. In addition, accurate calculations can be made even if one is not a skilled technician. According to the present invention, accuracy can be further improved by accumulating various data.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

It is. FIG. 3 is a flowchart of one embodiment of the cutting preparation method according to the present invention. FIG. 4 is a flowchart showing another embodiment of the cutting preparation method of the present invention. FIG. 5 is a plan view for explaining the length calculation procedure in the method of the present invention. Patent applicant Kashiyama Co., Ltd. Patent application agent Patent attorney Kikue Yamamoto Patent attorney Eiji Sanaka

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A step of creating a sample pattern with a desired design, a step of measuring the actual dimensions of the sample pattern,
A process of calculating the length for the required number of garments based on the actual measurement data, and a fabric preparation process of preparing the required length of fabric based on the results obtained by the calculation of the length and preparing it for cutting. A cutting preparation method characterized by: 2. The cutting preparation method according to claim 1, wherein the area of the sample pattern is actually measured in the sample pattern actual size measurement step. 3. The cutting preparation method according to claim 1, wherein the distance between predetermined portions of the sample pattern is actually measured in the sample pattern actual size measurement step. 4. In the length calculation process, calculate the area actually used for clothing, calculate the area for loss based on the actual area, and calculate the total area of required fabric by adding up the actual area and the loss area. However, any one of claims 1 to 3 is calculated by dividing the total area of the required fabric by the width of the fabric.
Cutting preparation method described in section. 5. Claim 4, in which the actual area is determined by summing the actual area of the sample pattern, the area of parts that were not created using the sample pattern, and the area of the seam allowance.
Cutting preparation method described in section. 6. Claims that calculate the area of the sample pattern based on the actually measured distance of the sample pattern, and calculate the actual area by summing the area, the area of the part that was not created with the sample pattern, and the area of the seam allowance. The cutting preparation method described in Section 4.