JPH09111585A - Production of patterned crepe - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a new patterned crepe capable of naturally presenting various patterns through variations in crepe height. SOLUTION: This patterned crepe is obtained by beating hard twisted yarns into wefts into a plain fabric which is then scoured to develop crepe patterns. Specifically, soluble fibrous yarns are partly beaten via the identical shed into the hard twisted yarns and then dissolved and removed in the scouring process; thereby, the crepe pattern at a portion A beaten with the soluble yarns is made higher than that at a portion B not beaten with the soluble yarns, and a linearly patterned portion lower in crepe height than the portion B is formed at the weave shed portion C for the soluble yarns situated between the portions A and B.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing crepe pattern crepe in which the height of crepe is changed.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Since ancient times, crepe has been made by weaving hard twisted yarns into weft yarns to make a plain weave, and then scouring it to give grain.
Widely known. There are many kinds of crepe depending on the yarn used, graining, twisting, difference in structure, etc., but it was not possible to obtain a product with a clear pattern in which the height of grain was changed.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a novel method for producing wrinkle pattern crepe which can naturally express various patterns by changing the height of the grain.

[0004]

According to the present invention, in a method for producing a crepe in which a hard-twist yarn is driven into a weft yarn to form a plain weave, and then scouring to give a grain, a soluble fiber yarn is partially mixed with the strong-twist yarn. The above problem was solved by driving in with the mouth and dissolving and removing the soluble fiber yarn in the refining process.

Since the product of the present invention is woven into a plain weave structure, the portion A in which the soluble fiber threads are driven in has a low weaving density due to the dissolution and removal of the soluble fibers in the refining step, so that the solubility is improved. Compared with the part B where the fiber yarn is not driven, the creases of the crepe structure are formed higher, and the part A where the soluble fiber yarn is driven and the part B where the soluble fiber yarn is not driven
The woven cloth portion C of the soluble fiber yarn located between the ridges is in a state in which the woven cloth mouth is exposed to the reed side, the striking effect is improved, and the weft density is increased. Will be formed.

That is, according to the present invention, the portion B having a normal crepe grain and the portion A having a higher crease than the ordinary crepe have a very low grain crease (in some cases, the grain crease is substantially reduced). It is possible to obtain a variegated crepe pattern crepe that has a portion C (which does not exist in) as a boundary line.

For example, the crepe of the present invention is Ichikoshi Chirimen
In a woven fabric that forms a "shibo" by the force of twisting with a plain weave of ancient crepe, plain plain crepe, changed ancient crepe, Shinonome crepe, etc., a jacquard machine is used to produce soluble fiber yarns in a pattern at the stage of weaving. This woven fabric is formed by weaving, and during refining, the difference in the crossing state of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, that is, the difference in the space where the twisting force can be exerted causes a difference in the formation of "creases", and the soluble fiber yarn is woven. It is possible to express a "shibo" pattern due to the difference in size and shape of the "shibo" with a pattern in a pattern.

The crepe ground structure may be made of either raw silk or synthetic fiber yarn such as polyester fiber. As the soluble fiber yarn, water-soluble fiber yarn or fiber yarn which is dissolved by alkali scouring is used. Either can be used. The use of water-soluble fiber yarns such as water-soluble vinylon yarns is particularly preferable, but when carrying out alkali scouring, fiber yarns that can be dissolved and removed during alkali scouring of wool or water-soluble ester (for example, weight reduction processing of polyester fibers) are used. May be used.

In order to express the "texture" pattern, the weft density, the thickness, the number of twists, and the thickness of the soluble fiber thread are mainly involved in the construction of the woven fabric, but the desired crepe pattern crepe is expressed. The fabric that can be made is a fabric that has a twisting force to shrink into a weft,
A woven fabric having a shrinkage amount of 10% or more in the refining process is preferable. As the strongly twisted yarn capable of effectively expressing the grain pattern, a single twisted strong twisted yarn, a wall twisted yarn, a strongly twisted wall twisted yarn, etc. can be used,
For example, the optimum twisting constant of a single twist strong twisted yarn is 35,000 to 500.
00.

The thickness of the soluble fiber yarn is preferably equal to or less than the thickness of the strongly twisted yarn which becomes the ground weft yarn, and is generally 1 to 1/3, particularly 4/5. ~ 2/5
The thickness is preferably about the same.

[0011]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS FIG. 1 illustrates a cross-sectional view of a main part of a woven fabric of a product of the present invention before scouring. In this example, a warp yarn 1 and a weft yarn 2 for a normal crepe fabric made of raw silk are used in combination with a water-soluble fiber yarn as a soluble fiber yarn 3, and in the part A, the soluble fiber yarn 3 is It is woven in the same mouth as the weft yarn 2 which is a strong twisted yarn of raw silk, and in the portion B, the soluble fiber yarn 3 is a floating yarn without being woven. In addition, a) to d) are modified examples of the woven structure of the A part.
Although not shown, at the point where the weave design changes from part A to part B, that is, at the weft of the soluble fiber yarn 3, the effect of driving the weft yarn 2 which is a strongly twisted raw yarn is increased, and the weft density is increased ( Generally, it is 5% or more higher than that of part B). Therefore, when the soluble fiber yarn 3 is dissolved and removed in the scouring step, it is possible to easily obtain a crepe having a change in the grain pattern in the A part, the B part and the C part in a natural state as shown in the following examples. Becomes

[0012]

【Example】

Example 1 As the warp, a flat yarn of 4 out of the raw yarn 27 was used, and as a weft, 12 of the raw yarn 27 out of SZ 2000 t / m (29
%) 56D consisting of 418D hard-twisted yarn with a twist constant of 35280 and water-soluble vinylon (90 ° C type)
Using 224D water-soluble fiber yarn, which is four plied yarns,
A plain fabric as shown in FIG. 2 was woven with the following weft density. Part A 37.95 threads / cm (the part where the above is driven in the same mouth) B part 19.80 threads / cm (the above thread density, the part where the above is not driven) C part 21.55 threads / cm (the above thread) Density, above-mentioned cloth mouth portion) When this woven fabric was treated under the following conditions, the water-soluble fiber yarn was completely dissolved and removed, and as shown in FIG.
B part having a crepe-shaped crepe and a normal crepe-shaped crepe was naturally formed in a pattern with the C-part having substantially no crevice between them as a boundary line, and a textured, crepe-patterned crepe was obtained. . Refining conditions Temperature (° C) Time (minutes) Pre-treatment (deep frying) 75 20 Rough kneading 100 60 Main kneading (high pressure) 120 60 Finishing 100 60

Example 2 100D × 1 polyester filament yarn is used as the warp, and polyester spun 30S / 1 × 1 yarn and SZ200 are used as the weft yarns.
248D polyester fiber yarn of 0t / m (40%) 28D x made of water-soluble vinylon (95 ° C type)
Using 168D water-soluble fiber yarn, which is 6 plied yarns,
A plain woven fabric was woven with the following weft density. Part A 39.60 threads / cm (the part where the above is driven in the same mouth) B part 19.80 threads / cm (the above thread density, the part where the above is not driven) Part C 21.00 threads / cm (the above thread) Density, the above-mentioned cloth mouth portion) When this woven fabric was treated under the following conditions, the water-soluble fiber yarn was completely dissolved and removed, and as in Example 1, there were changes in the height of the grain, A and B However, it was possible to obtain a crepe pattern crepe with a delicate appearance that naturally appeared with the C portion having substantially no grain as a boundary line. Refining conditions Temperature (° C) Time (min) Pretreatment (physical grain frying treatment) 80 60 Preset (heat set tenter) 170 Alkali refining (weight reduction processing) 100 60

Example 3 In the method of Example 2, a water-soluble ester thread was used as a thread in place of the water-soluble vinylon in a pattern, and the water-soluble ester thread was dissolved and removed in a weight reduction processing step.
I was able to obtain a crepe pattern crepe with a similar taste to.

[0015]

According to the method of the present invention, the pattern portions A and B having a change in the height of the grain are present with the boundary line portion C having substantially no grain between them, and have a natural and texture. Good, you can get a grained crepe. By simply changing the way in which the soluble fiber yarn is driven, it is possible to obtain a wide variety of textured crepe patterns with a normal plain weave design, from large patterns by painting feathers to allocated patterns such as Qinghai wave.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged cross-sectional view of a main part of a woven fabric of the present invention before scouring.

FIG. 2 is a plan view illustrating an example of the woven fabric of the present invention before scouring.

FIG. 3 is a plan view illustrating a state of the woven fabric of FIG. 2 after scouring.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Warp 2 Weft 3 Soluble fiber yarn

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A method for producing a crepe in which a hard twist yarn is driven into a weft yarn to form a plain weave, and then the soluble fiber yarn is partially driven into the strong twist yarn at the same mouth in the process of refining to obtain grain. Is removed in the refining process, the grain in the portion A where the soluble fiber yarn is driven is formed higher than the grain in the portion B where the soluble fiber yarn is not driven, and is located between the portions A and B. In the cloth fell portion C of the soluble fiber yarn,
A method for producing a crepe pattern crepe, which comprises forming a linear pattern portion having a graininess lower than that of the portion B. 2. The method of claim 1 wherein the soluble fiber yarn comprises water soluble vinylon. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the thickness of the soluble fiber yarn is 1/1 to 1/3 of the thickness of the strong twist yarn. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the crepe is silk crepe, polyester crepe or rayon crepe.