JPH0357981B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to an animal hair-like high-density fabric. Hitherto, high-density fabrics made of 100% cotton or synthetic fiber filaments are known. However, all of them have a slightly hard texture and lack a bulky feel, and while moisture permeability and air permeability are not considered in order to obtain water resistance and water repellency, and depending on the material, they absorb and release moisture. Because of its low humidity, it had many drawbacks, such as a large amount of stuffiness. The present inventors have solved these drawbacks and have created a product that has a bulky feel, is water resistant, and has water repellency.
As a result of careful research to develop a high-density fabric that has the functionality of high moisture absorption and moisture release properties, as well as heat retention, we developed a composite yarn of fine denier multifilament and fine animal hair. The present invention was discovered based on the finding that both functionality and texture could be satisfied. That is, the present invention is a high-density fabric woven with a composite yarn of multifilament and animal wool, and the composite yarn contains 20% by weight or more of the synthetic fiber filament. It is a high-density animal hair-like fabric. The composite yarn constituting the high-density fabric of the present invention must be composed of animal hair and multifilament. In other words, by using animal hair, high-density fabrics can be provided with animal hair's excellent moisture absorption, moisture release, and heat retention properties. However, it is extremely difficult to weave high-density fabrics using fine-count worsted yarn made only of animal hair because the yarn strength becomes weak. Therefore, in order to increase the yarn strength, it becomes possible for the first time to weave a high-density animal hair-like fabric by using a fine-count worsted-like composite yarn with a high-strength filament. The multifilament used in the present invention is not particularly limited to synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, polyethylene, and acrylic, recycled fibers such as rayon and kyupra, and semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate and promics, but is preferably made of high-strength materials. Examples include polyester and polyamide. Even more preferred are polyesters with high heat shrinkage stress. The polyester with high heat shrinkage stress refers to fibers with extremely high stress due to heat shrinkage under constant length, and preferably has a heat shrinkage stress of 0.4 g/denier or more under dry heat at 140°C. More specifically, the heat shrinkage stress is as follows. The heat shrinkage stress referred to in the present invention is 0.05g/
When a denier is held at a certain length under tension and the temperature is increased, the fiber tries to shrink due to heat, but since both ends are fixed, no actual shrinkage occurs; instead, the fiber does not shrink. An internal stress is generated. This stress is called heat shrinkage stress. Thermal shrinkage stress is measured using a commercially available non-adhesive metal resistance wire strain meter, which is amplified and linked with an automatic X-Y recorder to record and measure changes in stress over time. The sample is made into a loop of a certain length, one end of which is hooked to a hook directly connected to the strain meter, and the other end of the loop is hooked, and the length between the sample and the hook is adjusted and fixed so that the initial tension is 0.05 g/denier at 20°C. (At this time, apply tension while being careful not to sag.) The thus fixed sample is placed in a cylindrical quartz glass tube with an inner diameter of 8 mm and a heater with a nichrome wire wrapped around the outside. Place the sample in the heater so that the sample is located in the center of a double-tube heater (length 20 cm) surrounded by a double-tube heater (length 20 cm). The shrinkage force due to thermal shrinkage was measured by directly connecting the fiber to a temperature controller and heating the heater at a heating rate of 20℃/min to continuously raise the temperature of the atmosphere until it melted. Let the value be the heat shrinkage stress. The proportion of multifilaments in the composite yarn must be 20% by weight or more in order to maintain strength. If the proportion of synthetic fiber filament yarn in the composite yarn is less than 20% by weight, the strength of the composite yarn decreases, and the strength when formed into a high-density fabric decreases, which is not preferable. Further, if the filament content is 70% or more, the texture will be poor, so it is particularly preferable that the filament content in the composite yarn is 30% by weight or more and 60% by weight or less from the viewpoint of maintaining strength and texture. The composite yarn used in the present invention preferably has a worsted count of 60 ^'S to 120 ^'S , particularly preferably a worsted count of 90 ^'S to 110 ^'S . Further, the single fiber denier of the filament contained in the composite yarn is 0.1 to 2.0 denier, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0 denier, from the viewpoint of water resistance and texture. In addition, the twist coefficient of the composite yarn is preferably 2 to 3.5, more preferably 2.5.
~3. The multifilament yarn is prepared by a known method such as electrospreading, and then a roving made of animal hair is drafted and a pair of the opened multifilament and the multifilament yarn are drafted in the form of a ribbon or as the roving. A mixed fiber composite yarn may be obtained by stacking the filaments at a mixing ratio of 1, twisting and winding with a twist coefficient of 2 to 3.5, or by stacking the filaments without opening them, twisting and winding them to obtain a core yarn. Mixed fiber composite yarns are preferred in order to obtain dense fabrics. Then, the obtained composite yarn is made into a warp yarn and/or
Alternatively, it can be used as a weft to make a woven fabric by a conventional method. In particular, when using a composite yarn containing polyester filaments with high heat shrinkage stress, it is preferable to use the composite yarn as both the warp and weft yarns, since the intersection of the warp and weft yarns of the fabric can be closed. The weaving density of the animal hair-like high-density fabric of the present invention is preferably a warp density of 220 threads/inch or more.
If the warp density is less than 220 threads/inch, waterproofness,
This is not preferred because water repellency decreases. A preferable weaving density is 250 fibers/inch or more and 350 fibers/inch or less. The appropriate weft density is 70 threads/inch to 130 threads/inch, but any weft thread density used in ordinary high-density fabrics may be used. Furthermore, when a filament having a high heat shrinkage stress during weaving is used for the composite yarn, the weaving density can be lowered and the weaving process can be carried out in a later process to increase the density, resulting in cost reduction. Furthermore, it is more preferable to impart easy dyeability to the filament, since this allows selection of dyeing processing conditions that do not damage animal hair. Alternatively, it may be possible to dye it in a deep color by using cationically dyeable polyester. Thereafter, the fabric is subjected to a conventional water repellent treatment. Any water repellent agent may be used. The water-repellent treated high-density fabric of the present invention has a water pressure resistance mm value of P according to JIS L-1079-66 and a moisture permeability g/value according to JIS Z-0208.
When the value of cm ² /24h is Z, the formula ln P≧−4.37×
It is preferable to satisfy 10 ^-4 Z+9.5. Moisture permeability Z
is preferably 4000g/cm ² /24h or more, more preferably 5000g/cm ² /24h. In addition, the water pressure resistance P is
The length is preferably 300 mm or more, more preferably 500 mm or more. The high-density fabric of the present invention is an ultra-high-density fabric that has high moisture absorption and desorption properties, excellent heat retention, and high strength. The present invention will be specifically explained below using Examples and Comparative Examples. In addition, in the examples and comparative examples,
Fabric tear strength is JIS L-1018, water pressure resistance is JIS L-
1079-66, moisture permeability (1) is JIS Z-0208 (temperature 25±0.5
℃, relative humidity on one side of the test cloth 90±2%, other side dry), moisture permeability (2) is JIS L-1018 (temperature 20±2℃,
relative humidity 65±2%), water repellency was determined according to JIS L-1079, and air permeability was determined according to JIS L-1079-66. In addition, to measure the heat retention effect, we created windbreakers using the fabrics obtained in the Examples and Comparative Examples, and asked 10 male subjects (age 18 to 50, average age 31) to wear them on their bare skin. +5℃, humidity 50%, wind speed 0.5
The wearer was placed in a chamber at m/sec for 30 minutes and sensory evaluation was performed on the warmth retention feeling when worn on a scale of good or bad, and the number of people who rated it good was shown. Example Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0
The undrawn yarn was spun at 310°C at a discharge rate of 0.8 g/min per single hole from a nozzle with 48 orifice holes of φ0.15, and wound at a take-up speed of 4000 m/min. Stretched at a temperature of 85°C in the first stage and 110°C in the second stage, with a stretching ratio of 1.3 times in the first stage and 2.0 times in the second stage,
The properties of the obtained filament are shown in Table 1. Next, the cashmere fiber roving and the filament were mixed to give a twist of 840 T/m to obtain a composite yarn of 1/90 ^S. The properties of the composite yarn are also listed in Table-1. Using this composite yarn, warp density 280
A plain woven fabric with a weft density of 108 threads/inch and a weft density of 108 threads/inch was created and subjected to shrinkage treatment in boiling water at 100°C for 30 minutes.The resulting fabric had a density of 321 warps/inch and a weft thread of 138
It was a book/inch. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the functionality and fabric strength of the fabric obtained by applying a water repellent treatment agent and finishing the fabric. Comparative Example 1 Weaving was attempted using 100% cashmere thread count 1/ ^90S , but the threads were severely broken and weaving was impossible. For this reason, we compared the surface texture of the high-density fabric with a fabric woven with 2/90 ^S with 140 and 56 warps and wefts and subjected to the same treatment as above, and found that the texture was almost the same. It was made of high-quality cashmere. Comparative Example 2 Table 1 shows the functionality of a fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example except that pure cotton roving was used instead of the cashmere fiber roving in Example to obtain a composite yarn of 60/S.

[Table] As shown in Table 1, the functionality of the animal hair-like high-density fabric of the present invention is equivalent to or higher than that of the cotton-based high-density fabric of Comparative Example 2, and especially the moisture permeability according to JIS L-1018 method. It had excellent heat retention when worn.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A high-density fabric woven with a composite yarn of multifilament and animal wool, and the composite yarn contains 20% by weight or more of the synthetic fiber filament. Animal hair-like high-density fabric characterized by being made of thread. 2. The animal hair-like high-density fabric according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament is polyester. 3 Animal hair-like high-density fabric has the formula ln P≧−4.37×10 ^-4 Z
+9.5 (However, P is water pressure resistance according to JIS L-1079-66.
The value of mm, Z is the moisture permeability g/cm ² / according to JIS Z-0208.
24h value) according to claims 1 and 2.