JP6046549B2 - Elastic knitted fabric - Google Patents

Elastic knitted fabric Download PDF

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JP6046549B2
JP6046549B2 JP2013092859A JP2013092859A JP6046549B2 JP 6046549 B2 JP6046549 B2 JP 6046549B2 JP 2013092859 A JP2013092859 A JP 2013092859A JP 2013092859 A JP2013092859 A JP 2013092859A JP 6046549 B2 JP6046549 B2 JP 6046549B2
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knitted fabric
yarn
elongation
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elastic
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雄二 浜口
雄二 浜口
河端 秀樹
秀樹 河端
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Toyobo STC Co Ltd
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本発明は、着用したときの締付け感が少なく、着用によるストレスを軽減できる肌着用編地に関する。   [Technical Field] The present invention relates to a skin-wearing knitted fabric that has less tightness when worn and can reduce stress due to wearing.

これまで肌着には伸縮性の高い編地がよく使われてきた。弾性糸を用いた編地は、伸縮性が高く、ピッタリした着用感が得られたり、肌の動きに沿って変形するので、動きやすい肌着が得られる利点がある。しかし、このような編地は、絶えず身体を締付けているために圧迫感のストレスを身体に与えるものであった。   Up to now, knitted fabrics with high elasticity have often been used for underwear. The knitted fabric using the elastic yarn is highly stretchable and has a good feeling of wearing and can be deformed along with the movement of the skin. However, such a knitted fabric is constantly tightening the body, so it gives the body a stress of pressure.

このような圧迫感を軽減する試みとして、例えば弾性糸を低温セット性でソフトなフィット感になるように設計した弾性糸(特許文献1参照)や、そのような弾性糸と熱可塑性合繊繊維を交編織してなる伸縮性織編物(特許文献2参照)が提案されている。このような弾性糸を用いた編地は、ソフトなフィット感を得ることができるが、まだ十分ではなく、伸長回復性が低下しやすかった。また、編組織における改善として、太糸と細糸の交編編地のいずれかのコースにだけゴム糸を挿入すること(特許文献3参照)も提案されている。しかし、弾性糸を数コース毎に挿入する編組織では、締付け感の改善が十分でなかったり、締付け感を和らげることができても伸長回復性が低いものになっていた。従って、いまだ十分に満足する肌着は得られていないのが現状である。   As an attempt to reduce such a feeling of pressure, for example, an elastic yarn (see Patent Document 1) designed so that an elastic yarn has a soft fitting feeling with low temperature setting properties, and such an elastic yarn and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber are used. An elastic woven or knitted fabric (see Patent Document 2) formed by interweaving has been proposed. A knitted fabric using such an elastic yarn can obtain a soft fit, but it is not yet sufficient, and the stretch recovery property tends to be lowered. In addition, as an improvement in the knitting structure, it has been proposed to insert a rubber yarn only in one of the courses of a knitted fabric of thick yarn and fine yarn (see Patent Document 3). However, in the knitted structure in which the elastic yarn is inserted every several courses, the tightening feeling is not sufficiently improved, or even if the tightening feeling can be eased, the stretch recovery property is low. Therefore, underwear is still not fully satisfactory.

特開2000−265326号公報JP 2000-265326 A 特開2001−214342号公報JP 2001-214342 A 特開2003−41458号公報JP 2003-41458 A

本発明は、上記の従来技術の現状に鑑み創案されたものであり、単にソフトな弾性糸を使用することや、従来用いられていた編構造では得ることができなかった、ヨコ方向の高い伸長性と着用したときの締付け感を改善し、しかも伸長回復性も高いことによる肌への追従性が高い編地を得ることを目的とする。このような編地を実現することにより、着用時の圧迫ストレスを軽減できる肌着用編地を提供することができる。   The present invention was devised in view of the current state of the prior art described above, and it is possible to simply use a soft elastic yarn or a high elongation in the horizontal direction that could not be obtained with a knitted structure used in the past. An object is to obtain a knitted fabric with improved followability to the skin due to the improvement in feeling and tightening feeling when worn, and also high stretch recovery. By realizing such a knitted fabric, it is possible to provide a skin-wearing knitted fabric that can reduce pressure stress during wearing.

本発明者らは、上記目的を達成するために鋭意検討した結果、弾性糸と編地の構成を工夫して、ストレッチ性、特にヨコ方向のストレッチ性を大きくすると同時に伸長応力を小さくすることにより着用時の圧迫感を小さくすることができ、しかも伸長回復性が高く、肌の動きに追随できることを見い出し、本発明の完成に至った。   As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have devised the configuration of the elastic yarn and the knitted fabric to increase the stretch property, particularly the stretch property in the horizontal direction, and at the same time reduce the elongation stress. It was found that the feeling of pressure at the time of wearing can be reduced, the stretch recovery property is high, and the movement of the skin can be followed, and the present invention has been completed.

すなわち、本発明は、(1)〜(5)の構成を有するものである。
(1)繊度が英式番手(Ne)で30/1〜100/1のセルロース系繊維の紡績糸と、繊度が33〜78dtexの合成繊維フィラメントと、被覆弾性糸とからなるリブ編地からなり、一方ではセルロース系繊維の紡績糸を単独でリブに編成し、もう一方では被覆弾性糸をシリンダー針またはダイヤル針のいずれか一方にのみプレーティングしながら合成繊維フィラメントをリブに交編した編組織であることを特徴とする肌着用編地。
(2)編地のヨコ方向において、20%伸長時の応力が10〜40cN、伸長応力回復率が90〜100%であり、80%伸長時の応力が30〜80cN、伸長応力回復率が85〜100%であることを特徴とする(1)に記載の肌着用編地。
(3)プレーティング部の合繊繊維フィラメントの糸長が450〜800mm/100Wであり、被覆弾性糸の糸長が150〜350mm/100Wであり、かつ合繊フィラメントに対する被覆弾性糸の糸長比が0.25〜0.8であることを特徴とする(1)または(2)に記載の肌着用編地。
(4)セルロース系繊維の紡績糸の撚係数Kが2.5〜3.5であることを特徴とする(1)〜(3)のいずれかに記載の肌着用編地。
(5)被覆弾性糸に含まれる弾性繊維における往きでの200%伸長時の応力が5〜12mNであり、伸長応力回復率が30〜80%であり、かつ、復りでの200%伸長時の応力が7mN以下であることを特徴とする(1)〜(4)のいずれかに記載の肌着用編地。
That is, this invention has the structure of (1)-(5).
(1) It consists of a rib knitted fabric composed of a spun yarn of cellulosic fibers with an English count (Ne) of 30/1 to 100/1, a synthetic fiber filament with a fineness of 33 to 78 dtex, and a coated elastic yarn . On the one hand, a knitted structure in which a spun yarn of cellulosic fibers is knitted independently into ribs, and on the other hand, synthetic fiber filaments are knitted into ribs while plating coated elastic yarn only on either cylinder needles or dial needles A knitted fabric for skin wearing.
(2) In the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric, the stress at 20% elongation is 10 to 40 cN, the elongation stress recovery rate is 90 to 100%, the stress at 80% elongation is 30 to 80 cN, and the elongation stress recovery rate is 85. The skin-wearing knitted fabric according to (1), which is ˜100%.
(3) The yarn length of the synthetic fiber filament in the plating part is 450 to 800 mm / 100 W, the yarn length of the coated elastic yarn is 150 to 350 mm / 100 W, and the yarn length ratio of the coated elastic yarn to the synthetic filament is 0. The underwear knitted fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the knitted fabric is 25 to 0.8.
(4) The skin-wearing knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the twist coefficient K of the spun yarn of the cellulosic fiber is 2.5 to 3.5.
(5) When the elastic fiber contained in the coated elastic yarn has a stress at the time of 200% elongation of 5 to 12 mN, an elongation stress recovery rate of 30 to 80%, and at the time of 200% elongation in the reverse direction The underwear knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the stress is 7 mN or less.

本発明の肌着用編地は、ヨコ方向に非常に高いストレッチを持ちながら伸長応力を低く抑えているために着用時の圧迫感を低減することができる。更に、本発明の肌着用編地は、低伸長応力ながら伸長回復性が高いので、肌の動きに追随できて着用ストレスを感じずに動きやすく、心理的にも生理的にもリラックスして心地良い。   Since the skin-wearing knitted fabric of the present invention has a very high stretch in the horizontal direction and keeps the elongation stress low, it can reduce the feeling of pressure during wearing. Furthermore, since the skin-wearing knitted fabric of the present invention has high stretch recovery properties despite low elongation stress, it can easily follow the movement of the skin and move without feeling the wearing stress, and can be relaxed both psychologically and physiologically. good.

図1は、実施例1のスーパーフライスの編組織を示す。FIG. 1 shows a knitting structure of a supermill of Example 1. 図2は、比較例1のCSY交編天竺の編組織を示す。FIG. 2 shows the knitting structure of the CSY knitting tengu of Comparative Example 1. 図3は、比較例2のベアフライスの編組織を示す。FIG. 3 shows a knitting structure of a bear mill of Comparative Example 2. 図4は、FTYの製造装置の一例を示す。FIG. 4 shows an example of an FTY manufacturing apparatus. 図5は、実施例1と比較例1の編地で作成した肌着の生理評価を示す。FIG. 5 shows physiological evaluation of the underwear created with the knitted fabric of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. 図6は、実施例1と比較例1の編地で作成した肌着の主観評価を示す。FIG. 6 shows the subjective evaluation of the underwear created with the knitted fabric of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

本発明の肌着用編地は、(i)特定の繊度のセルロース系繊維の紡績糸(以下、セルロース紡績糸とも言う)と合成繊維フィラメント(以下、合繊フィラメントとも言う)を一本又は二本交互に編成したリブ組織であること、及び(ii)この合繊フィラメントに被覆弾性糸をシリンダー針またはダイヤル針のいずれか一方にのみプレーティングすることに特徴がある。セルロース紡績糸に合繊フィラメントを交互編みすることにより、肌着として良好な風合と、本発明が狙う伸縮特性と編地強力を両立することができる。更に、被覆弾性糸を合繊フィラメントにリブ目の一方にのみプレーティングすることにより、編地をヨコに引張ったときに被覆弾性糸がスムーズに伸長して、抵抗感がなく、柔らかく伸縮することができる。これにより、本発明の被覆弾性糸の低い応力回復力と高い伸長回復率を達成することができる。   The skin-wearing knitted fabric of the present invention comprises (i) one or two alternately of spun yarn (hereinafter also referred to as cellulose spun yarn) of cellulose fibers having a specific fineness and synthetic fiber filament (hereinafter also referred to as synthetic fiber filament). And (ii) the synthetic filament is coated with a coated elastic yarn only on either the cylinder needle or the dial needle. By alternately knitting synthetic filaments on cellulose spun yarn, it is possible to achieve both a good texture as an undergarment and the stretch properties and knitted fabric strength targeted by the present invention. Furthermore, by plating the coated elastic yarn only on one side of the ribs on the synthetic filament, the coated elastic yarn can be smoothly stretched when the knitted fabric is pulled to the side, and there is no resistance and it can be expanded and contracted softly. it can. Thereby, the low stress recovery force and high elongation recovery rate of the coated elastic yarn of the present invention can be achieved.

本発明の編地では、弾性繊維をベアで使わずに被覆弾性糸の形で使用することが重要である。弾性繊維単体でベア使いにした場合、弾性繊維が持つ伸長回復応力が直接編地の性能として現れて、編地の伸長応力が強くなってしまい、圧迫感のない肌着とすることが難しくなる。本発明では、被覆弾性糸を使用することで、編込むときのドラフトを下げることができ、編地の伸長応力を極限まで引下げることが可能となる。   In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is important to use the elastic fiber in the form of a covered elastic yarn without using it in the bare. When a single elastic fiber is used as a bear, the stretch recovery stress of the elastic fiber appears directly as the performance of the knitted fabric, and the stretch stress of the knitted fabric becomes strong, making it difficult to make underwear without a feeling of pressure. In the present invention, by using the coated elastic yarn, the draft during knitting can be lowered, and the elongation stress of the knitted fabric can be lowered to the limit.

被覆弾性糸は、弾性繊維と、他の短繊維や長繊維とを複合した弾性糸である。被覆弾性糸の具体的な例としては、長繊維と弾性繊維を合撚したフィラメント・ツイスティッド・ヤーン(FTY)、エアーで繊維同士を交絡させたエアー混繊糸、仮撚加工と同時混繊する仮撚複合糸等がある。短繊維と弾性繊維を複合したものとしては、コアスパンヤーン(CSY)、プライヤーン(PLY)等が用いられる。   The coated elastic yarn is an elastic yarn in which an elastic fiber is combined with other short fibers or long fibers. Specific examples of coated elastic yarns include filament twisted yarn (FTY) in which long fibers and elastic fibers are twisted together, air mixed yarn in which fibers are entangled with air, and simultaneous mixing with false twisting And false twisted composite yarn. As a composite of short fibers and elastic fibers, core spun yarn (CSY), pliers (PLY), or the like is used.

本発明では、被覆弾性糸はFTYの形態で使用することが特に好ましい。そうすることにより、エアー混繊糸やコアスパンヤーンのような複合形態に比べて被覆弾性糸の中で弾性繊維が拘束され難く、伸長回復応力を下げたり、伸長回復性を高めやすくなる。FTYはポリウレタン弾性繊維やポリエチレン系弾性繊維のような弾性繊維に他の素材をコイル状に巻きつけたものである。例えば、弾性繊維を芯として一方向に被覆されているシングルカバードヤーン(SCY)と、下巻き、上巻きを逆方向に被覆されているダブルカバードヤーン(DCY)がある。本発明では、リング撚糸機やダブルツイスターを使って合撚したものもFTYとして扱うが、SCYやDCYにした方が被覆性がよく、また弾性繊維を拘束し難いため、より好適である。FTYの総繊度は20〜150dtexとするのが好ましい。より好ましくは、30〜100dtexである。FTYの総繊度は、弾性繊維がドラフトされて複合糸とし、巻上げた状態での実繊度を指す。   In the present invention, the coated elastic yarn is particularly preferably used in the form of FTY. By doing so, the elastic fiber is less likely to be restrained in the coated elastic yarn as compared to a composite form such as an air-mixed yarn or a core spun yarn, and it becomes easy to lower the elongation recovery stress or increase the elongation recovery property. FTY is obtained by winding another material around an elastic fiber such as polyurethane elastic fiber or polyethylene elastic fiber in a coil shape. For example, there is a single covered yarn (SCY) coated in one direction with an elastic fiber as a core, and a double covered yarn (DCY) coated in the reverse direction on the lower winding and the upper winding. In the present invention, a yarn twisted using a ring twisting machine or a double twister is also handled as FTY. However, SCY or DCY is more preferable because it has better covering properties and is less likely to restrain elastic fibers. The total fineness of FTY is preferably 20 to 150 dtex. More preferably, it is 30-100 dtex. The total fineness of FTY refers to the actual fineness in a state where elastic fibers are drafted into a composite yarn and wound up.

被覆弾性糸に用いる合繊フィラメントの素材としては、ポリアミド繊維、ポリエステル繊維、ポリオレフィン繊維、アクリル系繊維等のフィラメントを挙げることができる。この中では、柔かな風合が得られるナイロン6やナイロン66のフィラメントが好ましく用いられる。編地に交編される合繊フィラメントと素材を統一すると、更に好ましい。   Examples of the synthetic filament material used for the coated elastic yarn include filaments such as polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, polyolefin fiber, and acrylic fiber. Among them, nylon 6 or nylon 66 filaments that can provide a soft texture are preferably used. It is more preferable to unify the synthetic filaments and materials to be knitted into the knitted fabric.

合成フィラメントの単繊度は、0.5〜5.0dtexが好ましく、0.8〜3.0dtexがより好ましい。単繊度が上記範囲を超えると、風合が硬くなり着用時のリラックス感が得られにくい。単繊度は低い程良いが、低くし過ぎると製糸性が低下して、品質が低下したり、コストアップに繋がる。合繊フィラメントの総繊度は、10〜100dtexが好ましく、20〜84dtexがより好ましい。総繊度が上記範囲を超えると、FTYとしての総繊度も高くなり、結果として出来た肌着が分厚くなってしまう。上記範囲未満であると、弾性繊維の被覆性が低下して編地の伸長応力をコントロールしにくくなる。   The single filament fineness of the synthetic filament is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 dtex, more preferably 0.8 to 3.0 dtex. When the single fineness exceeds the above range, the texture becomes hard and it is difficult to obtain a relaxed feeling when worn. The lower the single fineness, the better. However, if the fineness is too low, the spinning property is lowered, the quality is lowered, and the cost is increased. The total fineness of the synthetic fiber is preferably 10 to 100 dtex, and more preferably 20 to 84 dtex. When the total fineness exceeds the above range, the total fineness as FTY also increases, and the resulting underwear becomes thick. If it is less than the above range, the covering property of the elastic fiber is lowered and it becomes difficult to control the elongation stress of the knitted fabric.

弾性繊維にはポリウレタン系弾性繊維、ポリオレフィン系弾性繊維、ポリエステル系弾性繊維等を用いることができる。本発明では、低応力タイプのポリウレタン系弾性繊維を用いるのが好ましい。低応力タイプのポリウレタン系繊維としては、旭化成製ロイカHS,オペロンテックス製ライクラT906Cなどが市販されている。ポリウレタン系弾性繊維に低応力性能を与える手段として、種々の低融点ジオールを用いて製造されたポリウレタンや、ジオール成分としてエステル結合を含まずエーテル結合のみを含むものから得たポリウレタンや、共重合ポリアルキレンエーテルジオールを原料としたウレタン部分とウレア部分との交互ブロック共重合体からなるポリウレタンを用いて弾性繊維とする等の方法がある。   As the elastic fiber, polyurethane-based elastic fiber, polyolefin-based elastic fiber, polyester-based elastic fiber, or the like can be used. In the present invention, it is preferable to use a low-stress polyurethane elastic fiber. As low-stress type polyurethane fibers, Asahi Kasei's Leuka HS, Operontex's Lycra T906C, and the like are commercially available. As means for giving low-stress performance to polyurethane-based elastic fibers, polyurethanes produced using various low-melting diols, polyurethanes obtained from those containing only ether bonds and no ester bonds as diol components, There is a method in which an elastic fiber is formed using polyurethane made of an alternating block copolymer of a urethane portion and a urea portion using an alkylene ether diol as a raw material.

本発明では、被覆弾性糸に含まれる弾性繊維の伸長特性は、往きでの200%伸長時の応力が好ましくは5〜12mNであり、より好ましくは7〜10mNである。また、伸長応力回復率は好ましくは30〜80%であり、より好ましくは75%以下である。残留歪みは低い程良く、好ましくは0〜6.5%であり、より好ましくは0〜5.5%である。なお、本発明では、戻りでの200%伸長時の応力は7mN以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは3〜6.5mNである。往きでの200%伸長時の応力が上記範囲を超えると、編地の伸長応力が高くなりすぎて締め付け感が発生してくる。また、上記範囲未満であると、ソフトなストレッチが得られるものの、戻りが悪く、生地に「わらい」が発生する。復りでの200%伸長時の応力が上記範囲未満であると、生地の戻りが悪くなる。伸長応力回復率が上記範囲未満であると、生地は伸びるものの、編目に「わらい」がでる。残留歪が上記範囲を超えると、編地にしたとき、生地の伸長回復が悪くなり「わらい」が発生する。   In the present invention, the elongation characteristic of the elastic fiber contained in the coated elastic yarn is preferably 5 to 12 mN, more preferably 7 to 10 mN at the time of 200% elongation at the time of going. Further, the elongation stress recovery rate is preferably 30 to 80%, and more preferably 75% or less. The lower the residual strain, the better, preferably 0 to 6.5%, more preferably 0 to 5.5%. In the present invention, the stress at 200% elongation on return is preferably 7 mN or less, more preferably 3 to 6.5 mN. If the stress at the time of 200% elongation exceeds the above range, the elongation stress of the knitted fabric becomes too high and a feeling of tightening occurs. On the other hand, if the amount is less than the above range, a soft stretch can be obtained, but the return is poor and the fabric becomes “soft”. If the stress at the time of 200% elongation in the return is less than the above range, the return of the fabric becomes worse. If the elongation stress recovery rate is less than the above range, the fabric is stretched, but “soft” appears on the stitches. When the residual strain exceeds the above range, when the knitted fabric is formed, the stretch recovery of the fabric is deteriorated and “wara” is generated.

弾性繊維の繊度は15〜50dtexであることが好ましい。より好ましくは、17〜33dtexである。繊度が上記範囲を超えると、被覆弾性糸の繊度が大きくなりすぎたり、合撚する非弾性糸とのバランスが悪くなる。合撚時の弾性糸ドラフト率は、1.5〜2.8倍の低倍率にすることが好ましい。更に好ましくは、1.7〜2.6倍である。弾性糸ドラフト率が上記範囲を越えると、伸縮のパワーが強すぎて編地の収縮が大きくなり、厚くなりやすい。また、圧迫感の小さい編地も得難くなる。上記範囲未満の場合は、伸長回復率が不十分となり、肌着として着用時にヨコ方向に伸びて戻らない現象が発生しやすい。また、FTYの製造においても糸切れが多く、安定生産が困難になる。   The fineness of the elastic fiber is preferably 15 to 50 dtex. More preferably, it is 17 to 33 dtex. If the fineness exceeds the above range, the fineness of the coated elastic yarn becomes too large, or the balance with the inelastic yarn to be twisted becomes poor. The elastic yarn draft rate during twisting is preferably a low magnification of 1.5 to 2.8 times. More preferably, it is 1.7 to 2.6 times. When the elastic yarn draft ratio exceeds the above range, the expansion / contraction power is too strong, and the knitted fabric shrinks easily and becomes thick. In addition, it is difficult to obtain a knitted fabric with a small feeling of pressure. When the amount is less than the above range, the elongation recovery rate is insufficient, and a phenomenon that does not stretch in the horizontal direction when worn as an underwear is likely to occur. In addition, there are many yarn breaks in the manufacture of FTY, making stable production difficult.

図4は、本発明に好適に使用されるFTYを製造するための装置の概略図である。FTYの製造では、まずパッケージ1の(回転数)巻き戻し速度とデリベリーローラの回転数との回転差によってドラフトを与えられながら、パッケージ1から巻き戻される弾性繊維2がスピンドル装置3のスピンドル4に導入され、回転する給糸ボビン5から巻き戻された鞘糸6(合成繊維フィラメントB)が弾性繊維2の外周に巻き付けられる。次いで、デリベリーローラ7及びトラバーサ8を介してSCY9が巻き取りボビン10に巻き取られる。DCYは、スピンドル及び給糸ボビンが糸道に沿って上下2つ配置された構造になっている。本発明では、弾性繊維2の好ましいドラフト倍率は1.5〜3.5に設定するのが好ましい。より好ましくは、1.7〜2.9である。ドラフト倍率が上記範囲より低いと、編地の伸長回復性が低下して‘わらい’が発生しやすくなる。上記範囲より高いと、伸長応力が高くなって、着用中の締付け感が出やすくなる。   FIG. 4 is a schematic view of an apparatus for producing FTY which is preferably used in the present invention. In the manufacture of FTY, first, the elastic fiber 2 unwound from the package 1 is fed into the spindle 4 of the spindle device 3 while being drafted by the rotational difference between the (revolution speed) rewind speed of the package 1 and the rotation speed of the delivery roller. The sheath yarn 6 (synthetic fiber filament B), which has been introduced into and rotated from the rotating yarn feeding bobbin 5, is wound around the outer periphery of the elastic fiber 2. Next, the SCY 9 is wound around the winding bobbin 10 via the delivery roller 7 and the traverser 8. The DCY has a structure in which two spindles and a yarn feeding bobbin are arranged along the yarn path. In the present invention, the preferred draft magnification of the elastic fiber 2 is preferably set to 1.5 to 3.5. More preferably, it is 1.7 to 2.9. When the draft magnification is lower than the above range, the stretch recovery property of the knitted fabric is deteriorated and 'soft' tends to occur. When it is higher than the above range, the elongation stress becomes high, and a feeling of tightening during wearing is likely to occur.

通常、給糸ボビン5は8000〜30000rpmで回転しており、巻付ける撚数はボビン回転数と巻き取り速度によって決まる。弾性繊維2に前記鞘糸6が捲き付けられるときの撚数は、300〜1500T/M(twist/メートル)が好ましい。より好ましくは、350〜950T/Mであり、更に好ましくは400〜700T/Mである。撚数が上記範囲より多くなると、伸長率が低下するとともに、取扱い性が悪くなって生産性が落ちやすい。逆に撚数が上記範囲より少なくなると、被覆度が悪くなって、低ドラフトで編込むことが難しくなる。また、弾性繊維の切断などのトラブルも発生しやすくなる。   Normally, the yarn feeding bobbin 5 rotates at 8000 to 30000 rpm, and the number of twists to be wound is determined by the bobbin rotation speed and the winding speed. The twist number when the sheath yarn 6 is wound around the elastic fiber 2 is preferably 300 to 1500 T / M (twist / meter). More preferably, it is 350-950 T / M, More preferably, it is 400-700 T / M. When the number of twists is larger than the above range, the elongation rate is lowered, the handleability is deteriorated, and the productivity is easily lowered. On the other hand, when the number of twists is less than the above range, the degree of coverage becomes poor and it becomes difficult to knit with a low draft. In addition, troubles such as cutting of elastic fibers are likely to occur.

本発明の編地に使用されるセルロース系繊維は、天然繊維の綿や麻、再生セルロース繊維のレーヨン、キュプラ、テンセル、リヨセル等、半合成繊維のジアセテートやトリアセテートが挙げられる。肌着等に風合が好まれる点から、綿100%、又は綿/再生セルロースを混用したものが好ましい。セルロース系繊維は、グラフト重合等により改質されたものを用いてもよい。糸の使用番手は、細番手のものが良く、英式番手(Ne)30/1〜100/1、より好ましくは40/1〜80/1のものを用いる。紡績糸に用いる原綿は、細いほど肌触りが良くなり、着用時のリラックス感が得られやすい。木綿であれば、超長綿を用いるのが好ましい。本発明における超長綿とは、繊維直径2.8〜4.5ミクロンで平均繊維長が26〜33mmのものである。セルロース系繊維の紡績糸の製造法は、リング紡績、オープンエンド、及びムラタボルテックススピナーのような結束紡績等を用いることができるが、風合の柔らかさや均一性からリング紡績法を用いることが好ましい。   Examples of the cellulosic fibers used in the knitted fabric of the present invention include natural fiber cotton and hemp, regenerated cellulose fiber rayon, cupra, tencel, lyocell and the like, semisynthetic fiber diacetate and triacetate. 100% cotton or a mixture of cotton / regenerated cellulose is preferred because the texture is preferred for underwear and the like. Cellulosic fibers may be modified by graft polymerization or the like. The yarn count used is fine, and the English count (Ne) is 30/1 to 100/1, more preferably 40/1 to 80/1. As the raw cotton used for the spun yarn becomes thinner, it feels better and it is easier to get a relaxed feeling when worn. If it is cotton, it is preferable to use super long cotton. The ultra-long cotton in the present invention is one having a fiber diameter of 2.8 to 4.5 microns and an average fiber length of 26 to 33 mm. Cellulosic fiber spun yarn can be produced by ring spinning, open end, and bundling spinning such as Murata vortex spinners, but it is preferable to use the ring spinning method because of the softness and uniformity of the texture. .

リング紡績法を用いる場合、紡績糸の撚係数(K)としては、2.2〜3.8が好ましく、より好ましくは2.5〜3.5である。撚係数が上記範囲未満であると、風合は柔らかくなるが、毛羽が多く、摩擦等の消費耐久性が低下しやすい。上記範囲を超えると、風合が硬くなりすぎて柔らかな風合にならず、リラックス感が得られにくくなる。また、圧縮弾性、比容積の特性の点でも撚係数(K)は2.2〜3.8が好ましい。より好ましくは、2.5〜3.5であり、さらに好ましくは2.5〜3.2である。糸の撚係数が小さいほど、繊維間に空隙が発生して圧縮時の戻りが良くなり、比容積が大きくなる。撚係数が上記範囲より低いと、圧縮弾性、比容積が良くなるが、糸強度が低下し、糸切れが多くなる。また、上記範囲を超えると、糸強度がアップし糸切れが少なくなるが、繊維間の空隙が小さくなり圧縮弾性、比容積が小さくなる。   When the ring spinning method is used, the twist coefficient (K) of the spun yarn is preferably 2.2 to 3.8, more preferably 2.5 to 3.5. When the twisting coefficient is less than the above range, the texture becomes soft, but there are many fluffs and the consumption durability such as friction tends to decrease. When the above range is exceeded, the texture becomes too hard and does not become a soft texture, making it difficult to obtain a relaxed feeling. In addition, the twist coefficient (K) is preferably 2.2 to 3.8 in terms of compression elasticity and specific volume characteristics. More preferably, it is 2.5-3.5, More preferably, it is 2.5-3.2. The smaller the twist coefficient of the yarn, the more voids are generated between the fibers and the return during compression is improved, and the specific volume is increased. When the twisting coefficient is lower than the above range, the compression elasticity and the specific volume are improved, but the yarn strength is lowered and the yarn breakage is increased. On the other hand, when the above range is exceeded, the yarn strength is increased and the yarn breakage is reduced, but the gap between the fibers is reduced and the compression elasticity and the specific volume are reduced.

本発明では、編地に合繊フィラメントを交編するが、この目的は、編地の伸長回復性を高めることと、編地強力を向上させることにある。合繊フィラメントには、ポリアミド繊維、ポリエステル繊維、ポリオレフィン繊維、アクリル系繊維等のフィラメントを用いることができる。この中では、風合の柔らかさから、ナイロン6やナイロン66のフィラメントが好ましい。フィラメントの単繊度は、0.5〜5.0dtexが好ましく、0.8〜3.0dtexがより好ましい。単繊度が上記範囲を超えると、風合いが硬くなり着用時のリラックス感が得られにくい。単繊度は、低い程良いが、低くし過ぎると製糸性が低下して、品質が低下したり、コストアップに繋がる。合繊フィラメントの総繊度は、33〜78dtexが好ましく、40〜74dtexがより好ましい。総繊度が上記範囲を超えると、出来た肌着が分厚くなりやすく、上記範囲未満であると、編地の強度が低下しやすくなる。   In the present invention, synthetic fiber filaments are knitted into the knitted fabric, and this purpose is to improve the stretch recovery of the knitted fabric and to improve the knitted fabric strength. As the synthetic fiber, filaments such as polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, polyolefin fiber, and acrylic fiber can be used. Of these, nylon 6 and nylon 66 filaments are preferred because of the softness of the texture. The filament fineness is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 dtex, more preferably 0.8 to 3.0 dtex. When the single fineness exceeds the above range, the texture becomes hard and it is difficult to obtain a relaxed feeling when worn. The lower the single fineness, the better. However, if the fineness is too low, the spinning property is lowered, the quality is lowered, and the cost is increased. The total fineness of the synthetic filament is preferably 33 to 78 dtex, more preferably 40 to 74 dtex. When the total fineness exceeds the above range, the resulting underwear is likely to be thick, and when the total fineness is less than the above range, the strength of the knitted fabric tends to decrease.

本発明の編地に用いる丸編機はダブルニット編機を用いる。針立ては総針でも突合せのどちらでもよく、例えば総針ゴムや2×1リブ、1×1リブ、2×2リブ、3×3リブ等の針立てにすればよい。本発明の編地を得るには、編針密度を16〜22ゲージ(本/inch)にするのが好ましい。16ゲージより粗いと、肌が透けて見えやすくなったり、保形性が低下する。22ゲージより細かいと、伸長性が低下して締め付け感が出やすくなる。   The circular knitting machine used for the knitted fabric of the present invention uses a double knit knitting machine. The needle stand may be either a total needle or a butt, and may be a needle stand such as a total needle rubber, 2 × 1 rib, 1 × 1 rib, 2 × 2 rib, 3 × 3 rib or the like. In order to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, the knitting needle density is preferably 16 to 22 gauge (main / inch). If it is coarser than 16 gauge, the skin will be easily seen through and the shape retention will be reduced. If it is finer than 22 gauge, the extensibility is lowered and a feeling of tightening tends to appear.

また、製編時のセルロース繊維及び合繊フィラメントの編込み糸長は、好ましくは450mm〜800mm/100Wであり、より好ましくは500〜650mm/100Wである。糸長を上記範囲未満にすると、伸長性が低下しやすく、締め付け感が出やすくなる。上記範囲を超えると、伸長回復性が低下したり、編目が粗すぎて肌が透けて見えやすくなったり肌着にしたときの保形性が低下するといった問題が起こりやすい。被覆弾性糸の編込み糸長は、好ましくは150〜350mm/100Wであり、より好ましくは200〜300mm/100Wである。更に合繊フィラメントに対する被覆弾性糸の糸長比は、好ましくは0.25〜0.8であり、より好ましくは0.3〜0.6である。被覆弾性糸の編込み糸長、及び糸長比を上述の範囲にすることで、好ましい伸縮特性が得られる。被覆弾性糸の糸長比が上記範囲を超えると、十分な伸長性は得られるが、編地の伸長回復性が低下しやすい。また、上記範囲未満であると、編地の伸長応力が高くなりすぎたり、編地の目面が悪くなりやすい。   Moreover, the knitting yarn length of the cellulose fiber and the synthetic fiber during knitting is preferably 450 mm to 800 mm / 100 W, and more preferably 500 to 650 mm / 100 W. If the yarn length is less than the above range, the extensibility tends to be lowered, and a feeling of tightening can be easily obtained. Exceeding the above range tends to cause problems such as a decrease in stretch recovery, a problem that the stitches are too rough and the skin can be seen through easily, or the shape retention when the undergarment is put on is lowered. The knitted yarn length of the coated elastic yarn is preferably 150 to 350 mm / 100 W, more preferably 200 to 300 mm / 100 W. Furthermore, the yarn length ratio of the coated elastic yarn to the synthetic filament is preferably 0.25 to 0.8, and more preferably 0.3 to 0.6. By setting the knitted yarn length of the coated elastic yarn and the yarn length ratio within the above-mentioned ranges, preferable stretch characteristics can be obtained. When the yarn length ratio of the coated elastic yarn exceeds the above range, sufficient stretchability can be obtained, but the stretch recovery property of the knitted fabric tends to decrease. Moreover, when it is less than the said range, the elongation stress of a knitted fabric will become high too much, or the surface of a knitted fabric will deteriorate easily.

編地の密度として、コース数は10〜30個/inchが好ましい。より好ましくは15〜25個/inchである。また、ウェール数は30〜60個/inchが好ましい。より好ましくは40〜55個/inchである。コース数又はウエール数が上記範囲未満であると、ヨコ方向によく伸びるが、伸長回復性が低下したり、寸法安定性が低下しやすい。コース数又はウェール数が上記範囲を超えると、伸び難くなり、伸長特性が低下しやすい。また目付が重くなってリラックス感が悪くなりやすくなる。   The density of the knitted fabric is preferably 10-30 courses / inch. More preferably, it is 15-25 pieces / inch. The number of wales is preferably 30 to 60 / inch. More preferably, it is 40-55 pieces / inch. When the number of courses or the number of wales is less than the above range, the film stretches well in the horizontal direction, but the stretch recovery property is likely to deteriorate, and the dimensional stability tends to decrease. When the number of courses or the number of wales exceeds the above range, it becomes difficult to elongate, and the elongation characteristics are likely to deteriorate. In addition, the basis weight becomes heavy, and the relaxed feeling tends to deteriorate.

上述のようにして得られた本発明の編地のヨコ方向の伸長特性は、20%伸長時の応力が10〜40cNとなることができ、着用中の圧迫感が少ない。そして、伸長回復率は90〜100%となることができ、回復性が良好で適度なフィット感がある。また、80%伸長時の応力も30〜80cNと低くなることから、着用時によく伸びてゆったりと着ることができる。80%伸長後の応力回復率は85〜100%となることができ、型くずれもし難い。更に、破断時の伸長率は500〜1000%となることができ、非常に良く伸びる編地となる。   As for the stretch property in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric of the present invention obtained as described above, the stress when stretched by 20% can be 10 to 40 cN, and the feeling of pressure during wearing is small. The elongation recovery rate can be 90 to 100%, the recovery is good, and there is an appropriate fit. Moreover, since the stress at the time of 80% elongation is as low as 30 to 80 cN, it can be stretched well when worn. The stress recovery rate after 80% elongation can be 85-100%, and it is difficult to lose shape. Furthermore, the elongation at break can be 500 to 1000%, and the knitted fabric is very well stretched.

本発明の編地は、比容積が大きく、圧縮弾性率、及び通気性も高いものになる。具体的には、比容積は5〜7cc/cmとなり、圧縮弾性率は70〜80%、通気性は50〜150cc/cm・secとなることができる。比容積、圧縮弾性率がこの範囲であると、非常に着心地が良いものになる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention has a large specific volume, high compression elastic modulus, and high air permeability. Specifically, the specific volume can be 5 to 7 cc / cm 2 , the compression modulus can be 70 to 80%, and the air permeability can be 50 to 150 cc / cm 2 · sec. When the specific volume and the compression elastic modulus are in this range, the comfort is very good.

以下に本発明を実施例により具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例に限定されるものではない。なお、各種特性値の測定は、下記の方法に従った。   EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Various characteristic values were measured according to the following methods.

(編地中の各糸の糸長)
JIS−L1096−C8.8a)に準拠して編目長を測定し、100ウェール(W)当りの編目長で表記した。また、初荷重は、2.94mN×表示テックス数で行った。
(Thread length of each yarn in the knitted fabric)
The stitch length was measured in accordance with JIS-L1096-C8.8a) and expressed as a stitch length per 100 wales (W). The initial load was 2.94 mN × display tex number.

(編地の伸長特性)
オリエンテック(株)製テンシロンUTM−100型引張試験機を使用し、標準状態(温度20℃、湿度65%RH)で、編地ヨコ方向の20%伸長時と80%伸長時の伸長応力と伸長応力回復率、及び破断時伸度を測定した。測定条件は、定速伸長形、引張速度20cm/min、掴み間5cm×幅5cmとし、繰返し回数は1回とした。
(Elongation characteristics of knitted fabric)
Using a Tensilon UTM-100 type tensile tester manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd., in the standard state (temperature 20 ° C, humidity 65% RH), the elongation stress at 20% elongation in the knitted fabric direction and 80% elongation The elongation stress recovery rate and the elongation at break were measured. The measurement conditions were a constant speed extension type, a tensile speed of 20 cm / min, a grip interval of 5 cm x a width of 5 cm, and the number of repetitions was one.

(圧縮弾性率)
JIS−L1096の圧縮弾性試験機法により測定した。標準圧力は0.7kPaとし、一定圧力を19.6kPaとした。
(Compressive modulus)
It measured by the compression elasticity tester method of JIS-L1096. The standard pressure was 0.7 kPa, and the constant pressure was 19.6 kPa.

(編地の厚み、目付、比容積)
編地の厚みと目付をそれぞれL−1018−6.5及びL−1018−6.4.2に準拠して測定し、これらの測定値を用いて下記式により比容積を算出した。
比容積=編地厚み(mm)/編地目付(g/m)×1000
(Thickness of fabric, basis weight, specific volume)
The thickness and basis weight of the knitted fabric were measured according to L-1018-6.5 and L-1018-6.4.2, and the specific volume was calculated by the following formula using these measured values.
Specific volume = knitted fabric thickness (mm) / knitted fabric basis weight (g / m 2 ) × 1000

(編地の密度(コース数、ウェール数))
JIS−L−1096に準拠して編地のコース密度(個/inch)、ウェール密度(個/inch)を測定した。
(Knitted fabric density (number of courses, number of wales))
The course density (pieces / inch) and the wale density (pieces / inch) of the knitted fabric were measured in accordance with JIS-L-1096.

(通気度)
JIS−L−1096 8.27.1に規定されている通気度測定法(フラジール形法 A法)に準拠して測定した。
(Air permeability)
It measured based on the air permeability measurement method (fragile type method A method) prescribed | regulated to JIS-L-1096 8.27.1.

(編地を構成する被覆弾性糸に含まれる弾性繊維の伸長特性)
編地から被覆弾性糸を取り出して、弾性繊維を傷つけたり、引張りすぎないように合繊フィラメントと弾性繊維を分解した。分解した弾性繊維の伸長応力、伸長応力回復率及び残留歪みを、定速伸長形引張試験器(オリエンテック社製テンシロンUTM−−100)を使用して標準条件(温度20℃、湿度65%RH)の環境下で測定した。伸長応力は、つかみ間隔5cm、50cm/分の速度で300%までの伸長を3回繰り返した時、3回目の往き200%伸長時の応力と復り200%伸長時の応力を測定した。伸長応力回復率%は下記式により求めた。
伸長応力回復率(%)=(復りの伸長応力/往きの伸長応力)×100
残留歪み率(%)は1000%/分の速度で、300%までの伸長回復を3回繰り返した時の、3回目の回復時の応力が0となる時の残留歪みとした。
(Elongation characteristics of elastic fiber contained in covered elastic yarn constituting knitted fabric)
The coated elastic yarn was taken out of the knitted fabric, and the synthetic filament and the elastic fiber were decomposed so that the elastic fiber was not damaged or pulled too much. The elongation stress, elongation stress recovery rate, and residual strain of the decomposed elastic fiber were measured under standard conditions (temperature 20 ° C., humidity 65% RH) using a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester (Orientec Tensilon UTM-100). ) In the environment of The elongation stress was determined by measuring the stress at the time of the third 200% elongation and the stress at the time of returning 200% when the elongation to 300% was repeated three times at a gripping interval of 5 cm and a speed of 50 cm / min. The elongation stress recovery rate% was determined by the following formula.
Elongation stress recovery rate (%) = (retraction elongation stress / forward elongation stress) × 100
The residual strain rate (%) was defined as the residual strain when the stress at the third recovery was zero when the elongation recovery up to 300% was repeated three times at a rate of 1000% / min.

〔実施例1〕
セルロース系繊維の紡績糸として、マイクロネア繊度3.2μg,平均繊維長34mmのスーピマ綿100%を使用し、リング精紡機を用いて英式番手(Ne)50/1(撚係数K=3.0)の綿糸を作成し、合繊フィラメントとしてナイロン6の56dtex、48フィラメントのブライト丸断面糸(東洋紡シルファイン(登録商標))を用いた。また、被覆弾性糸には、低応力タイプのポリウレタンとして、オペロンテックス製ライクラT906C,22dtexを使用し、弾性繊維に巻きつける合繊フィラメントとして、ナイロン6(東洋紡シルファイン(登録商標))56dtex,48フィラメントを使用してFTY(SCY)を作製した。弾性繊維のドラフト率は180%とし、巻き付ける撚数は450T/Mに設定した。上記糸を用い、福原(株)製の18inch,18Gのフライス編機を用いて、図1の組織で編み立てた。各糸の編込み長は、綿糸、合繊フィラメントは600mm/100W、被覆弾性糸は230mm/100Wとした。上記条件にて編成された編地を一般の条件で染色加工して仕上げた。出来上がった編地の伸長特性を測定した結果、伸長応力は20%伸長時で19cN、80%伸長時で50cNと低い値で、伸長応力回復率は20%伸長時で95%、80%伸長時で95%となった。仕上がった編地は、軽く伸びて、良く戻る伸長特性を持ち、膨らみ感があり、非常にソフトな風合いを有していた。出来上がった編地から被覆弾性糸を取り出し、弾性繊維の伸長特性を測定したところ、200%伸長時の応力が8.75mN(往き)、6.31mN(復り)であった。また、伸長応力回復率は72.1%、残留歪みは5.2%であった。得られた編地の編成条件及び評価結果を表1に記載する。
[Example 1]
As a spun yarn of cellulosic fiber, 100% of Supima cotton having a micronar fineness of 3.2 μg and an average fiber length of 34 mm is used, and an English number (Ne) 50/1 (twisting coefficient K = 3.0) using a ring spinning machine. ) Was used, and 56 dtex of nylon 6 and 48 filament bright round section yarn (Toyobo Sylfine (registered trademark)) were used as synthetic filaments. The coated elastic yarn uses Operontex LYCRA T906C, 22 dtex as a low-stress type polyurethane, and nylon 6 (Toyobo Syl Fine (registered trademark)) 56 dtex, 48 filament as a synthetic filament wound around the elastic fiber. Was used to produce FTY (SCY). The draft rate of the elastic fiber was 180%, and the number of twists to be wound was set to 450 T / M. The above yarn was knitted with the structure shown in FIG. 1 using an 18 inch, 18 G milling machine manufactured by Fukuhara. The knitting length of each yarn was 600 mm / 100 W for cotton yarn and synthetic filament, and 230 mm / 100 W for coated elastic yarn. The knitted fabric knitted under the above conditions was finished by dyeing under general conditions. As a result of measuring the elongation characteristics of the finished knitted fabric, the elongation stress was as low as 19 cN at 20% elongation and 50 cN at 80% elongation, and the recovery rate of elongation stress was 95% at 20% elongation and at 80% elongation. It became 95%. The finished knitted fabric was stretched lightly and rebounded well, had a feeling of swelling, and had a very soft texture. When the coated elastic yarn was taken out from the finished knitted fabric and the elongation characteristics of the elastic fiber were measured, the stress at 200% elongation was 8.75 mN (forward) and 6.31 mN (return). Further, the elongation stress recovery rate was 72.1%, and the residual strain was 5.2%. Table 1 shows the knitting conditions and evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

〔実施例2〕
実施例1で使用したスーピマ綿を実質無撚としてコアに配し、その周りに英式番手(Ne)100/1(撚係数K=3.2)の同一木綿繊維を巻付け数18回/inchで巻きつけた構造を持つ、Ne50/1の紡績糸をトライスピン精紡機(オゼキテクノ製)を用いて作製した。それ以外は実施例1と同様の方法で編地を作成した。出来上がった編地は、軽く伸びて、良く戻る伸長特性を持ち、非常にソフトな風合いを有していた。得られた編地の編成条件及び評価結果を表1に記載する。
[Example 2]
The Supima cotton used in Example 1 was arranged in the core as being substantially untwisted, and the same cotton fiber with an English number (Ne) 100/1 (twisting coefficient K = 3.2) was wound around the core 18 times / An Ne50 / 1 spun yarn having a structure wound by an inch was produced using a trispin spinning machine (manufactured by Ozeki Techno). Otherwise, a knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1. The finished knitted fabric had an elongation characteristic that lightly stretched and returned well, and had a very soft texture. Table 1 shows the knitting conditions and evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

〔実施例3〕
撚係数K=2.6の超甘撚糸にした以外は実施例1と同様にしてセルロース系繊維の紡績糸を作製した。また、それ以外は実施例1と全く同様の方法で編地を作成した。出来上がった編地は、軽く伸びて、良く戻る伸長特性を持ち、非常にソフトな風合いを有していた。得られた編地の編成条件及び評価結果を表1に記載する。
Example 3
A spun yarn of cellulosic fiber was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a super sweet twisted yarn having a twisting coefficient K = 2.6 was used. Other than that, a knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1. The finished knitted fabric had an elongation characteristic that lightly stretched and returned well, and had a very soft texture. Table 1 shows the knitting conditions and evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

〔実施例4〕
編込み長を綿糸、合繊フィラメントともに500mm/100Wにした以外は実施例1と同様の方法で編地を作製した。出来上がった編地は、軽く伸びて、良く戻る伸長特性を持ち、非常にソフトな風合いを有していた。得られた編地の編成条件及び評価結果を表1に記載する。
Example 4
A knitted fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitting length was 500 mm / 100 W for both the cotton yarn and the synthetic filament. The finished knitted fabric had an elongation characteristic that lightly stretched and returned well, and had a very soft texture. Table 1 shows the knitting conditions and evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

〔実施例5〕
実施例1で使用したスーピマ綿でリング精紡機を使って撚係数K=3.4の通常撚数の英式番手(Ne)50/1を紡績した以外は実施例1と同様の方式で編地を作成した。出来上がった編地は、軽く伸びて、良く戻る伸長特性を持ち、十分にソフトな風合いを有していた。
Example 5
Knitting in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the Supima cotton used in Example 1 was spun using a ring spinning machine with an English count (Ne) 50/1 having a twist coefficient of K = 3.4. Created the ground. The finished knitted fabric had an elongation characteristic that lightly stretched and returned well, and had a sufficiently soft texture.

〔実施例6〕
編込み長を綿糸、合繊フィラメントともに650mm/100Wにし、被覆弾性糸を300mm/100Wにした以外は実施例1と同様の方法で編地を作製した。出来上がった編地は、軽く伸びて、良く戻る伸長特性を持ち、非常にソフトな風合いを有していた。得られた編地の編成条件及び評価結果を表1に記載する。
Example 6
A knitted fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitting length was 650 mm / 100 W for both the cotton yarn and the synthetic filament, and the coated elastic yarn was 300 mm / 100 W. The finished knitted fabric had an elongation characteristic that lightly stretched and returned well, and had a very soft texture. Table 1 shows the knitting conditions and evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

〔比較例1〕
紡績糸の繊度を英式番手(Ne)60/1(撚係数K=3.6)とした以外は実施例1と同じスーピマ綿の紡績糸を作製した。次に、スーピマ綿を鞘に、弾性繊維を芯にした英式番手(Ne)60/1の被覆弾性糸(CSY)を作製した。弾性繊維は、オペロンテックス製ライクラT906C,22dtexをドラフト3.0倍にして用いた。次いで被覆弾性糸をプレーティングせずに合繊フィラメントの代わりに用いて、これらの糸を1:1で30“−28Gの編機を用いて、編込み長が300mm/100Wの天竺(図2の組織)を編成した。次いで通常の方法で染色加工を施し編地を得た。出来上がった編地の伸長応力は、20%伸長時で67cN、80%伸長時で207cNと高い値であり、仕上がった編地は、伸長後の戻りが良いものの伸び難く、満足の行くものではなかった。CSYの場合、ポリウレタンのドラフトを低く設定できないために伸長応力が高くなってしまい、伸び難くなった。
[Comparative Example 1]
Supima cotton spun yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fineness of the spun yarn was changed to English count (Ne) 60/1 (twisting coefficient K = 3.6). Next, a coated elastic yarn (CSY) of English count (Ne) 60/1 with Supima cotton as the sheath and elastic fiber as the core was produced. The elastic fiber used was Operontex's Lycra T906C, 22 dtex with a draft of 3.0 times. The coated elastic yarn is then used in place of the synthetic filaments without plating, and these yarns are used at a 1: 1 and 30 "-28G knitting machine, with a knitting length of 300 mm / 100 W in a lantern (FIG. 2 The fabric was then dyed by the usual method to obtain a knitted fabric.The finished knitted fabric had a high elongation stress of 67 cN at 20% elongation and 207 cN at 80% elongation. The knitted fabric was not satisfactory because it returned well after stretching, but it was not satisfactory.In the case of CSY, the draft of polyurethane could not be set low, so that the elongation stress became high and it was difficult to stretch.

〔比較例2〕
実施例1で使用したスーピマ綿を用いた紡績糸50/1(英式番手(Ne))と、合繊フィラメントとしてナイロン6の56dtex、48フィラメントを1:1で交編し、更にナイロン側にポリウレタンとしてオペロンテックス製ライクラT906C,22dtexをベア使いでプレーティングして編成した。編成は、福原(株)製の18inch,18Gのフライス編機を用いて、ベアフライス(図3の組織)で編み立てた。各糸の編込み長は、綿糸、合繊フィラメントは600mm/100W、ポリウレタンは3倍のドラフトを付与して編み込んだ。上記条件にて編成された編地を一般の条件で染色加工して仕上げた。出来上がった編み地の伸長応力は、20%伸長時で45cN、80%伸長時で80cNとやや高い値であり、仕上がった編地は、伸長後の戻りが良いものの伸びがやや難く、満足の行くものではなかった。ポリウレタンのプレーティングの場合、ドラフトを低く設定できないために伸長応力が高くなってしまい、伸び難くなった。
[Comparative Example 2]
The spun yarn 50/1 (English count (Ne)) using Supima cotton used in Example 1 and nylon 6 as a synthetic filament 56 dtex, 48 filaments were knitted 1: 1, and polyurethane on the nylon side. As a result, lycra T906C, 22 dtex made by Operontex was plated with a bear and knitted. The knitting was knitted with bare milling (structure shown in FIG. 3) using an 18 inch, 18G milling machine manufactured by Fukuhara. The knitting length of each yarn was 600 mm / 100 W for cotton yarn and synthetic filament, and knitting was given for the polyurethane three times as much as the draft. The knitted fabric knitted under the above conditions was finished by dyeing under general conditions. The resulting knitted fabric has a slightly higher elongation stress of 45 cN at 20% elongation and 80 cN at 80% elongation, and the finished knitted fabric is slightly difficult to stretch after stretching, but is satisfactory. It was not a thing. In the case of polyurethane plating, since the draft cannot be set low, the elongation stress becomes high and it becomes difficult to stretch.

表1の評価結果から明らかなように、本発明の条件を満たして得られる編地は、20%伸長時の応力、伸長応力回復力、80%伸長時の応力、伸長応力回復力が本発明で規定される範囲内にあり、非常に伸長率が高く、伸長応力は低いながら、伸長回復率にも優れる。   As is clear from the evaluation results in Table 1, the knitted fabric obtained by satisfying the conditions of the present invention has the stress at 20% elongation, the stress recovery strength, the stress at 80% elongation, and the stress recovery strength of the present invention. The elongation rate is very high, the elongation stress is low, and the elongation recovery rate is also excellent.

次に、上記の実施例1及び比較例1の編地で肌着を作成して、実着用時のストレス軽減性を判定するために生理評価と主観評価を行った。それぞれの評価結果を図5、図6に示す。図5中のRR間隔(RR−interval)は、心電図においてR波と次のR波までの時間を意味する。R波は心拍を表わし、心拍数は1分間のR波の回数で表わす。RR間隔とリラックスの関係は、繊維消費学会誌、Vol.47,No.12,78(2007)「心理状態と生理計測値、および、触刺激との関係について」の評価法に従った。一般的に、リラックスしていると、RR間隔が長くなり、緊張するとRR間隔が短くなる。図6中の評価は、各項目に関して7人の1〜5の5段階評価(数字が大きいほど、賛同の意見が強い)の平均値で表わした。   Next, underwear was created with the knitted fabrics of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 described above, and physiological evaluation and subjective evaluation were performed in order to determine the stress mitigation during actual wearing. The respective evaluation results are shown in FIGS. The RR interval (RR-interval) in FIG. 5 means the time between the R wave and the next R wave in the electrocardiogram. The R wave represents a heartbeat, and the heart rate is represented by the number of R waves per minute. The relationship between RR interval and relaxation is described in the Journal of Textile Consumption, Vol. 47, no. 12, 78 (2007) The evaluation method of “Relationship between psychological state, physiological measurement value, and tactile stimulus” was followed. In general, when relaxed, the RR interval becomes longer, and when tensed, the RR interval becomes shorter. The evaluation in FIG. 6 is represented by the average value of 1 to 5 five-point evaluation (the larger the number, the stronger the opinion of approval) for each item.

本発明の編地(実施例1)を使用した肌着は、従来の編地(比較例1)を使用した肌着に比べて、実着用時に図5に示すようにRR−intervalが大きく、リラックスできており、また図6に示すように肯定的項目に賛同が多く、否定的項目に賛同が少なくなっている。   The underwear using the knitted fabric (Example 1) of the present invention has a larger RR-interval as shown in FIG. 5 and can be relaxed compared to the underwear using the conventional knitted fabric (Comparative Example 1). Moreover, as shown in FIG. 6, there is much support for positive items and less support for negative items.

本発明の編地は、上述のような特別な伸長特性を有するので、従来の伸縮編地に比べて圧迫感が小さく、着用者が非常にリラックスすることができる。従って、本発明の編地は、肌着用として適切であるだけでなく、部屋着やパジャマ等の室内着や商業ユニフォームにも用いることができ、心身ともに疲労勝ちな現代人の癒しに大いに貢献することができる。   Since the knitted fabric of the present invention has the special elongation characteristics as described above, the feeling of pressure is smaller than that of the conventional stretchable knitted fabric, and the wearer can be very relaxed. Therefore, the knitted fabric of the present invention is not only suitable for skin wear, but can also be used for indoor clothes such as room clothes and pajamas, and commercial uniforms, and greatly contributes to the healing of modern people who are fatigued both physically and mentally. be able to.

1 パッケージ
2 弾性繊維
3 スピンドル装置
4 スピンドル
5 給糸ボビン
6 鞘糸(合繊フィラメントB)
7 デリベリーローラ
8 トラバーサ
9 SCY
10 巻き取りボビン
1 Package 2 Elastic fiber 3 Spindle device 4 Spindle 5 Yarn feeding bobbin 6 Sheath yarn (synthetic filament B)
7 Delivery Roller 8 Traverser 9 SCY
10 Winding bobbin

Claims (5)

繊度が英式番手(Ne)で30/1〜100/1のセルロース系繊維の紡績糸と、繊度が33〜78dtexの合成繊維フィラメントと、被覆弾性糸とからなるリブ編地からなり、一方ではセルロース系繊維の紡績糸を単独でリブに編成し、もう一方では被覆弾性糸をシリンダー針またはダイヤル針のいずれか一方にのみプレーティングしながら合成繊維フィラメントをリブに交編した編組織であることを特徴とする肌着用編地。 It consists of a rib knitted fabric consisting of a spun yarn of cellulosic fibers with a fineness of English count (Ne) of 30/1 to 100/1, a synthetic fiber filament of a fineness of 33 to 78 dtex, and a coated elastic yarn . A knitted structure in which a spun yarn of cellulosic fibers is knitted independently into ribs and the other side is coated with synthetic elastic filaments on ribs while plating elastic yarn only on either the cylinder needle or dial needle. Skin-wearing knitted fabric characterized by 編地のヨコ方向において、20%伸長時の応力が10〜40cN、伸長応力回復率が90〜100%であり、80%伸長時の応力が30〜80cN、伸長応力回復率が85〜100%であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の肌着用編地。   In the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric, the stress at 20% elongation is 10 to 40 cN, the elongation recovery rate is 90 to 100%, the stress at 80% elongation is 30 to 80 cN, and the elongation stress recovery rate is 85 to 100%. The underwear knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein プレーティング部の合繊繊維フィラメントの糸長が450〜800mm/100Wであり、被覆弾性糸の糸長が150〜350mm/100Wであり、かつ合繊フィラメントに対する被覆弾性糸の糸長比が0.25〜0.8であることを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載の肌着用編地。   The yarn length of the synthetic fiber filament in the plating portion is 450 to 800 mm / 100 W, the yarn length of the coated elastic yarn is 150 to 350 mm / 100 W, and the yarn length ratio of the coated elastic yarn to the synthetic fiber is 0.25 to 0.25. The underwear knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knitted fabric is 0.8. セルロース系繊維の紡績糸の撚係数Kが2.5〜3.5であることを特徴とする請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の肌着用編地。   The underwear knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the twist coefficient K of the spun yarn of the cellulosic fibers is 2.5 to 3.5. 被覆弾性糸に含まれる弾性繊維における往きでの200%伸長時の応力が5〜12mNであり、伸長応力回復率が30〜80%であり、かつ、復りでの200%伸長時の応力が7mN以下であることを特徴とする請求項1〜4のいずれかに記載の肌着用編地。   In the elastic fiber contained in the coated elastic yarn, the stress at the time of 200% elongation in the forward direction is 5 to 12 mN, the recovery rate of the elongation stress is 30 to 80%, and the stress at the time of 200% elongation in the return direction is It is 7 mN or less, The skin-wearing knitted fabric in any one of Claims 1-4 characterized by the above-mentioned.
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