JP2908304B2 - Shoes and the method of preparation new structure - Google Patents

Shoes and the method of preparation new structure

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Publication number
JP2908304B2
JP2908304B2 JP765596A JP765596A JP2908304B2 JP 2908304 B2 JP2908304 B2 JP 2908304B2 JP 765596 A JP765596 A JP 765596A JP 765596 A JP765596 A JP 765596A JP 2908304 B2 JP2908304 B2 JP 2908304B2
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Prior art keywords
bottom
leather
insole
portion
upper
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JPH09193260A (en )
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親一 佐藤
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親一 佐藤
株式会社トレーディングポスト
株式会社マクナリーアンドカンパニー
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【発明の詳細な説明】 DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】 [0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は靴の構造と製法に関し、特にグッドイヤー・ウエルト型の靴の構造と製法に関する。 The present invention relates to relates to the structure and process of the shoe, and more particularly to the structure and process of the Goodyear welt type of shoes.

【0002】 [0002]

【従来の技術】従来用いられていた靴の構造には、一般に図3にて示す構成のものが採用されていた。 The structure of the Related Art Shoes, which has been conventionally used, on generally shown in FIG. 3 configuration has been adopted. 即ち図3 That is, FIG. 3
は従来用いられていた各種類の靴の構造の部分断面斜視図であり、(a)はグッドイヤー・ウエルト式、(b) Is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the structure of each type of shoe which has been used conventionally, (a) shows the Goodyear welt type, (b)
はセメント式、(c)はマッケイ式、(d)はステッチダウン式、(e)はカリフォルニア式、(f)はバルカナイズ式の部分断面斜視図である。 Cement type, (c) is McKay formula, (d) the stitch-down, (e) California equation, (f) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a vulcanized type. 図3において符号3 Reference numeral 3 3
01、501、601、701、801、901で示されるものは甲革、302、502、602、702、8 Upper is those represented by the 01,501,601,701,801,901, 302,502,602,702,8
02は裏革、303、503、603はタブラー、30 02 back leather, 303,503,603 is tabla, 30
4、504、604、704は表底、804はプラットフォーム、305、505、605、705、805、 4,504,604,704 is outsole, 804 platform, 305,505,605,705,805,
905は中底、306、506、606は中物、50 905 insole, product medium is 306,506,606, 50
7、607、707は敷革、308、708は細革、8 7,607,707 is Shikigawa, 308,708 are thin leather, 8
09はプラットフォーム巻革、310はリブ、311はすくい縫い糸、312、712は出し縫い糸、613はマッケー縫糸、514は接着剤、915は底ゴム、91 09 platform winding leather, 310 rib, 311 rake suture, suture out is 312,712, 613 Makke suture, 514 glue, 915 bottom rubber 91
6は金型である(資料:鈴木玲子、新技法シリーズ37 6 is a mold (Source: Reiko Suzuki, new techniques Series 37
靴をつくる、昭和52年4月、美術出版社)。 Make the shoes, 1977 April, art publisher).

【0003】グッドイヤー・ウェルト式は、アメリカのチャールド・グッドイヤー二世が開発に成功した方式で、中底305に上面部が取り付けられたT字型のリブ310の凸部の外面に、甲革301、裏革302及びタブラー303を補強し縫製して作られた製甲(アッパー)の裾部と、帯状の細革308の下部とをすくい縫いして合体させ、水平に起こした細革308に、中物30 [0003] Goodyear welt type is a method Charudo Goodyear II America has successfully developed, the outer surface of the convex portion of the T-shaped rib 310 that the upper surface portion to the insole 305 is mounted, upper leather 301 a skirt portion of the manufacturing instep (upper) made by sewing reinforced leather back 302 and tabla 303, coalescing by sewing rake and a lower strip-shaped thin leather 308, the thin leather 308 raised horizontally , midsole 30
6を挟んだ表底304を出し縫いで固定し、かかとと付属品を取り付けたもので、甲革301の周囲の細革30 6 were fixed with sewing issued outsole 304 across the, which was fitted with a heel and accessories, thin leather 30 around the upper leather 301
8部分(コバ)に出し縫いの糸目が見える。 Out fine line of sewing can be seen in 8 parts (edge).

【0004】セメント式は製甲と底を糸で縫いつけずに接着剤514(セメント)で貼り付けてある。 [0004] cement formula the manufacturing instep and bottom are stuck with an adhesive 514 (cement) to not sewn with thread. 製甲、中底505、表底504がすべて接着されており縫糸がない。 Seikabuto, midsole 505, there is no sewing thread are bonded outsole 504 all. 非常に軽く、返りもよい。 Very lightly, it may be returned.

【0005】マッケイ式は、製甲と中底605と表底6 [0005] McKay formula, and manufacturing instep and the insole 605 Table bottom 6
04とを内側で一緒に縫いつけてしまう製法で、軽くソフトにできるという特長がある。 And 04 in the process that would sewn together on the inside, there is a feature that can be lightly soft.

【0006】ステッチダウン式は、甲革701を外側に吊り込み、表底704に張り付け、周囲を出し縫いで縫いつける製法で、細革708と表底704で甲革701 [0006] The stitch-down formula, hanging the upper leather 701 on the outside, stuck to the outsole 704, in the process of sewing in the sewing out the surroundings, upper leather with thin leather 708 and the outsole 704 701
を挟んで縫いつけることもある。 Sometimes stitched across the. 軽くて返りがよく、子供靴の代表的な製法である。 Light and returned well, which is a typical process of children shoes.

【0007】カリフォルニア式は、プラット式とも呼ばれ表にプラットフォーム巻革809を当てて中底805 [0007] California formula, medium against the platform winding leather 809 also called table and Pratt-type bottom 805
を製甲に縫いつけプラットフォーム巻革809を折り返してプラットフォーム804といわれる表底を張り付けてある。 They are stuck the outsole which is said to be the platform 804 by folding the platform winding leather 809 sewn in manufacturing instep a.

【0008】バルカナイズ方式は、まだ形をなしていない未加硫の合成底材を金型916を用いて底付けの段階で同時に加熱加硫して成形する製法で、底は合成ゴムとなるが、金型の形状により、グッドイヤーにもマッケイにも見せることができる。 [0008] vulcanized scheme is a method of molding by heating vulcanization simultaneously unvulcanized synthetic sole material not without still form at the stage of the bottom with using a mold 916, but the bottom becomes synthetic rubber , the shape of the mold, it is possible to show to McKay to Goodyear. 図3にはないが、最近はインジェクション式(射出成形法)が増加している。 Without 3, recently injection type (injection molding) is increasing. これは熱可塑性の合成樹脂を金型に射出成形して作る製法で、 This is a method of making injection molded thermoplastic synthetic resin into a mold,
カジュアル感覚のサンダルやシューズ等に多く用いられている。 It is widely used in sandals and shoes, such as casual feeling.

【0009】このように多種の靴の構造と製法があるが、グッドイヤー・ウエルト式の靴が工程が複雑で資材も多くかかり高価であるにも関わらず、主に高級な紳士靴として高く評価されて世界的に広く愛用されている。 [0009] This way, there is a structure and a manufacturing method of a variety of shoes, shoes of Goodyear welt expression process in spite of the complex and take many materials expensive, it is highly regarded as a mainly upscale men's shoes It has been widely favored worldwide Te.

【0010】次に、図4によって、従来のグッドイヤー・ウエルト式の靴の製法を説明する。 [0010] Next, by FIG. 4 will be described the preparation of traditional Goodyear welt type of shoes. 図4は従来のグッドイヤー・ウエルト式の靴の製法の説明図であり、 Figure 4 is an explanatory view of a manufacturing method of a conventional Goodyear welt type shoes,
(a)は完成した製甲の斜視図、(b)はかかとに入れる月型芯の上面図、(c)は爪先部に入れる先芯の上面図、(d)は木型に被せた製甲の斜視図、(e)はリブ付き中底の上面図、(f)はリブ付き中底の部分断面斜視図、(g)はリブ付き中底への製甲の吊り込み状態の斜視図、(h)は製甲とリブと細革をすくい縫いして細革を水平に起こす状態の部分断面斜視図、(i)は中底の下にクッションを入れ合中底を張り付けて細革と合中底を出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図、(j)は合中底に表底を張り付けた状態の部分断面斜視図、(k)は合中底を用いず表革を直接細革に出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (A) is a perspective view of the instep manufacturing the finished, (b) is a top view of the moon type core Add to heel, (c) is a top view of toe put the toe portion, (d) is manufactured with covering the wooden mold instep perspective view, (e) is a top view in ribbed bottom, (f) is a partial sectional perspective in ribbed bottom view, (g) is a perspective view of a state hanging instep manufacturing into a ribbed bottom , (h) is Seikabuto the ribs and partial cross-sectional perspective of sewn rake thin leather condition causing thin leather horizontally view, (i) the fine leather stuck a slip insole placed a cushion under the insole a partial cross-sectional perspective of the state where the sewing out a slip insole view, (j) is a partial sectional perspective view of a state in which the stuck the outsole to the bottom in case, (k) is a leather table directly fine without a bottom in case is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which stitch out the leather.

【0011】図4中符号401は製甲、402は月型芯、403は先芯、404は木型、405は中底、40 [0011] Figure 4 reference numeral 401 Seikabuto, moon type core 402, 403 Sakishin, 404 wooden, medium 405 bottom, 40
6はリブ、407は細革、408は合中底、409はクッション、410は表底、411はすくい縫い糸、41 6 ribs, 407 thin leather, 408 bottom in case, 409 cushion 410 outsole, 411 rake sewing thread, 41
2は出し縫い糸である。 2 is a thread out.

【0012】完成した製甲401のかかとに月型芯40 [0012] The completed month-type core 40 in the heel of Seikabuto 401
2を、爪先部に先芯403を挿入する(a、b、c)。 2, inserts a Sakishin 403 to the toe portion (a, b, c).

【0013】周縁部にT型の革製のリブ406の頂部を張り付けた硬めの中底405を、木型404の底面にリブが表になるように取付け、木型404の上面に月型芯402と先芯403を挿入した製甲401を被せる(d、e、f)。 [0013] The bottom 405 in the stiff padding is stuck to the top of the peripheral edge of the T-type section leather ribs 406, mounted such ribs is table bottom surface of wooden mold 404, month-type core on the upper surface of the wooden mold 404 covered with Seikabuto 401 inserts 402 and Sakishin 403 (d, e, f).

【0014】木型404の底を上にして製甲401の裾部をリブ406に重なるように内側に吊り込む(g)。 [0014] Komu hanging skirt of manufacturing upper 401 and on the bottom of the wooden mold 404 inwardly so as to overlap the rib 406 (g).

【0015】製甲401の裾部の外側に細革407を副え、リブ406と製甲401の裾部と細革407の下部とをすくい縫い糸411で縫い付け、細革407の上部を水平方向に起こす(h)。 [0015] outside of the skirt of Seikabuto 401 go along the thin leather 407, sewing with sewing thread 411 scoops and a lower skirt and thin leather 407 of ribs 406 and manufacturing instep 401, the horizontal upper of the thin leather 407 cause in the direction (h).

【0016】中底405と合中底408とに挟まれる空間にクッション409を挟み、水平に起こした細革40 [0016] sandwiched cushion 409 in a space sandwiched between the insole 405 and covering insole 408, thin leather 40 that caused horizontally
7の上部と合中底408の周縁部を出し縫い糸412により縫いつける(i)。 7 sewn by sewing thread 412 issues a peripheral portion of the upper and covering insole 408 (i).

【0017】合中底408に表底410を張り付け、かかとを付けグラインダでコバ(表底の周囲の側面)を決めて仕上げをする(j)。 [0017] affixed to the outsole 410 into engagement in the bottom 408, the finishing decide edge in grinder with a heel (peripheral side surface of the outsole) (j).

【0018】また、合中底408を用いないで表底41 Further, the outsole 41 without using the interleaf insole 408
0を直接細革407に出し縫い糸412で縫い付け、かかとを付けグラインダでコバ(表底の周囲の側面)を決めて仕上げをする製法もある(k)。 Sewing with sewing thread 412 out 0 to direct thin leather 407, decide the edge in the grinder with a heel (peripheral side surface of the outsole) also process for finishing (k).

【0019】ここで、すくい縫い糸もしくはすくい縫いとは、JIS9070「工業用ミシンの分類に対する用語と表示方法」の単環縫(1本針、1本糸)記号C11 [0019] Here, the rake sewing thread or rake sewing, single chain stitch (1-needle, single-thread) of JIS9070 "term and a display method for an industrial sewing machine classification" symbol C11
に相当する縫方式であり、1本の糸を用い糸孔から出た環状にした糸の輪の中に次の糸孔から出た環状の糸を次々にくぐらせて縫う縫方式であり、出し縫い糸もしくは出し縫いとは、本縫(1本針、2本糸)記号L12に相当する縫方式であり、両面の2本の糸を被縫製物の間でからませて縫う縫方式である。 To a corresponding sewing method, a sewing method of sewing by preferably under an annular yarn exiting from the next thread hole in the ring of the thread which is annularly exiting thread hole with one thread after another, the sewing thread or out sewing out, lockstitch (1-needle, 2-thread) is a sewing method that corresponds to the symbol L12, is a sewing method that sew two yarns of both sides entangled between the workpiece .

【0020】 [0020]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】グッドイヤー・ウエルト式の構造の靴は上述のように主に高級な紳士靴として高く評価されて世界的に広く愛用されているが、次のような問題点がある。 [0007] of the Goodyear welt type of structure shoes are highly regarded as mainly upscale men's shoes as described above has been a favorite around the world widely, but problems such as the following: is there.

【0021】1. [0021] 1. リブを固定して底の形状を整えるため硬めの中底を用いる必要があり、底の屈曲性が悪い。 Since fixing the rib adjust the shape of the bottom is necessary to use a base in the harder, poor flexibility of the sole.

【0022】2. [0022] 2. 中底が厚いので靴が全体として重い。 Since the mid-sole is thick heavy as a whole shoes.

【0023】3. [0023] 3. 中底が硬めのため返りが悪く履き慣れるまでに日時を要する。 Insole it takes the date and time until the return to get used to wear bad for the firm.

【0024】4. [0024] 4. クッションが、硬めの中底を隔てて設けられているため履いた時のクッション性が悪い。 Cushion, poor cushioning properties when wearing because it is provided at a bottom in the firm.

【0025】5. [0025] 5. 全体に固く足当りがよくない。 It is not good per firm foot on the whole.

【0026】本発明の目的は、柔軟性があって足当りがよく、かつグッドイヤー・ウエルト式の構造の靴と同様な重厚感があり風格の高い靴を提供することにある。 It is an object of the present invention is to provide a well per foot there is flexibility, and high stately have similar profound feeling and shoe structure Goodyear welt type shoes.

【0027】 [0027]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明の靴は、 かかと部 Means for Solving the Problems The shoe of the present invention, the heel portion
に月型芯が、爪先部に先芯が挿入され、甲革と裏革とを Month type core to is, toe is inserted into the toe portion, the upper leather and leather back
具備した完成した製甲と底部を備えた靴において、底部が、表底と柔軟な中底から構成され、中底の周縁部が、製甲の裾部全周の内側に端部を合わせて同方向に袋状に縫い付けられ、細長い帯状の細革の下部が製甲の裾部全周の外側に端部を合わせてすくい縫い糸で縫い付けられ、略直角方向に外側に曲げられた細革の上部の下面の全周に表底が係着されている。 In shoes and a manufacturing upper and bottom finished equipped, bottom, it consists insole outsole and flexible, the peripheral portion of the insole is, the skirt of manufacturing instep on the inside of the entire circumference mating ends sewn into a bag shape in the same direction Te, the lower portion of the elongated strip of thin leather is sewn by sewing thread rake combined end outside the skirt entire circumference of manufacturing Jia, bent outwardly in a substantially perpendicular direction all around the outsole of the lower surface of the upper portion of the thin leather is engaged.

【0028】また、 かかと部に月型芯が、爪先部に先芯 [0028] In addition, the moon-type core in the heel part, Sakishin to toe
が挿入され、甲革と裏革とを具備した完成した製甲と底部を備えた靴において、底部が、表底と合中底と柔軟な中底から構成され、中底の周縁部が、製甲の裾部全周の内側に端部を合わせて同方向に袋状に縫い付けられ、 There is inserted in shoes and a manufacturing upper and bottom completed equipped with the upper leather and leather back, bottom, consists insole flexible and outsole in the case bottom, the peripheral edge of the insole , Ltd. instep of the foot portion to the inside of the entire circumference to fit the ends sewn into a bag shape in the same direction,
細長い帯状の細革の下部が製甲の裾部全周の外側に端部を合わせてすくい縫い糸で縫い付けられ、略直角方向に外側に曲げられた細革の上部の下面の全周に合中底の周縁部が係着され、合中底の下面に表底が係着されていてもよい。 Bottom of the elongated strip of thin leather is sewn by sewing thread rake combined end outside the skirt entire circumference of manufacturing Jia, if all the periphery of the bent thin leather outside top of the lower surface of the substantially perpendicular direction the peripheral edge of the insole is engaged, the lower surface in the case bottom may outsole is engaged.

【0029】さらに、中底が、袋状に周囲を係着され内部に緩衝材を有する2枚の板状の材料から構成されていてもよい。 Furthermore, the insole may be constituted by two plate-like material having an internal cushioning material is engaged around in a bag shape.

【0030】本発明の靴の製法は、上述の構造の靴の製法であって、完成した製甲のかかと部に月型芯を、爪先部に先芯を挿入する工程と、中底を製甲の裾部全周の内側に、該中底の周縁部の先端が製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するように同方向に縫い付ける工程と、製甲の裾部 The shoes of the process of the present invention is a method of shoe above structure, manufacturing month type core in the heel portion of the finished manufactured Jia, inserting a Sakishin the toe portion, the midsole instep of the foot portion to the inside of the entire circumference, a step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip of the peripheral edge of the middle bottom substantially coincides with the tip of manufacturing instep of the foot portion, Ltd. instep of the foot portion all
周の外面に、細長い帯状の細革を、該細革の下部の先端が製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するようにすくい縫い糸で縫い付けて、細革の上部を略直角方向に外側に曲げる工程と、略直角方向に曲げられた細革の上部の下面の全周に、中底との間に緩衝材を挟んで、表底を係着する工程と、表底の下面にかかとを係着し、全体を仕上げる工程とを有する。 Outside circumference of the outer surface, an elongated strip of thin leather, sewn with rake sewing thread as the lower part of the tip of Said sub leather to tip substantially match manufacturing instep of the foot portion, in the direction substantially perpendicular to the upper portion of the thin leather bending a step, all the peripheral leather fine bent substantially perpendicularly of the upper bottom surface of, across the buffer material between the insole in a step of fastening the outsole, the heel on the lower surface of the outsole I was engaged, and a step of finishing the whole.

【0031】また、完成した製甲のかかと部に月型芯を、爪先部に先芯を挿入する工程と、中底を製甲の裾部全周の内側に、該中底の周縁部の先端が製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するように同方向に縫い付ける工程と、製甲の裾部周の外面に、細長い帯状の細革を、該細革の下部の先端が製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するようにすくい縫い糸で縫い付けて、細革の上部を略直角方向に外側に曲げる工程と、略直角方向に曲げられた細革の上部の下面の全周に、中底との間に緩衝材を挟んで、底の中間部材である合中底を係着する工程と、合中底の下面に表底を係着する工程と、表底の下面にかかとを係着し、全体を仕上げる工程とを有していてもよい。 Further, the moon-type core in the manufacturing instep of the heel portion completed, inserting a Sakishin the toe portion, the insole inside the skirt of the entire periphery of Seikabuto, the periphery of the middle bottom a step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip is substantially coincident with the tip of manufacturing instep of the foot portion, the manufacturing instep of the foot portion all around the outer surface, an elongated strip of thin leather, manufacturing the lower tip of said sub leather sewn at the instep of the foot tip substantially match as rake suture of the steps of bending outwardly substantially perpendicular to the top of thin leather, the entire circumference of the upper portion of the lower surface of the substantially bent thin leather perpendicularly to, across the buffer material between the insole, a step of fastening the intermediate member is a case in the bottom of the bottom, a step of fastening the outsole to the lower surface in the case bottom, the lower surface of the outsole and engaged the heel may have a step of finishing the whole.

【0032】 [0032]

【発明の実施の形態】次に、本発明の実施の形態について図面を参照して説明する。 BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Next, a description with reference to the drawings, embodiments of the present invention. 図1は本発明の実施の形態の靴の構造を示す部分断面斜視図であり、図2は本発明の実施の形態の靴の製法の説明図であり、(a)は完成した製甲の斜視図、(b)はかかとに入れる月型芯の上面図、(c)は爪先部に入れる先芯の上面図、(d)は芯の挿入された製甲の斜視図(e)は中底の上面図、 Figure 1 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a structure in the form of a shoe of the present invention, FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of a form of shoe manufacturing method of the present invention, (a) shows the manufacturing instep of the finished perspective view, (b) is a top view of the moon type core Add to heel, (c) is a top view of toe put the toe portion, (d) is a perspective view of the instep Ltd. inserted core (e) the medium top view of the bottom,
(f)は中底の部分断面斜視図、(g)は製甲に中底を縫い付けた状態の部分断面斜視図、(h)は製甲と中底と細革をすくい縫いして細革を水平に起こす状態の部分断面斜視図、(i)は中底の下にクッションを入れ合中底を張り付けて細革と合中底を出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図、(j)は合中底に表底を張り付けた状態の部分断面斜視図、(k)は合中底を用いず表革を直接細革に出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (F) is a partial sectional perspective view of the insole, (g) is a partial sectional perspective view of a state in which the sewn insole to Seikabuto, (h) is fine by sewing rake insole and thin leather and Seikabuto partial cross-sectional perspective of the state of causing the leather horizontally view, (i) is a partial sectional perspective view of a state where sticking interleaf insole put cushions under the insole and sewn out fine leather and covering insole, (j) the partial cross-sectional perspective of the state of stuck the outsole to the bottom in case view and a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which stitch out (k) is directly thin leather Table leather without a bottom in engagement.

【0033】図中の符号101は製甲、102は月型芯、103は先芯、105は中底、105aは革、10 The reference numeral 101 in the figure Seikabuto, 102 a month type core 103 Sakishin, medium 105 bottom, 105a leather, 10
5bはのび止め材、105cはスポンジ、107は細革、108は合中底、109はクッション、110は表底である。 5b extends stopper member, 105c sponge, 107 thin leather, 108 bottom in case, 109 cushion 110 is outsole.

【0034】本実施の形態の靴の構造は、図1に示すように、内部にスポンジ105cの入った柔軟な中底10 The structure of the shoe according to the present embodiment, as shown in FIG. 1, a flexible insole 10 containing the sponge 105c therein
5の周縁部が、甲革101a、裏革101b及びタブラー101cを補強し縫製して完成した製甲101の裾部の内側に同方向に縫い付けられ、更に細長い帯状の細革107の下部が先端を合わせて製甲101の裾部外側全面に中底105も合わせてすくい縫い糸で縫い付けられており、下側に折り曲げられた細革107の上部の下面にクッション109を挟んだ表底110が出し縫い糸1 Periphery of 5, upper leather 101a, sewn in the same direction inside the skirt portion of Seikabuto 101 completed reinforced leather back 101b and tabla 101c sewing to, further the lower portion of the elongated strip of thin leather 107 tip is sewn with the insole 105 rake be combined suture the skirt outside the entire surface of the manufacturing upper 101 together, outsole 110 sandwiching the cushion 109 on the lower surface of the top of the lower thin leather 107 is bent sewing thread 1 out is
12で固定され、かかとと付属品が取り付けられたもので、甲革101aの周囲の細革107部分(コバ)に出し縫いの糸目が見える。 Fixed in 12, in which the heel and accessories are attached, visible fine line of stitching out the thin leather 107 parts of the periphery of upper leather 101a (edge).

【0035】本図では、細革107に直接表底110が縫い付けられているが、中間の底となる合中底108を細革107に縫い付け、合中底108に表底110を張り付ける構造のものもある。 [0035] In this figure, although direct table bottom 110 in thin leather 107 is sewn, stitched case insole 108 to be intermediate bottom thin leather 107, affixed to the outsole 110 into engagement insole 108 also those of that structure.

【0036】次に、図2によって、本発明の実施の態様の靴の製法を説明する。 Next, by Figure 2, illustrating the preparation of shoes aspect of the present invention.

【0037】甲革101a、裏革101b及びタブラー101cを補強し縫製して完成した製甲101のかかと部に月型芯102を、爪先部に先芯103を挿入する(a、b、c)。 [0037] Upper 101a, the moon-type core 102 in the heel portion of the leather back 101b and tabla 101c and the reinforcing Seikabuto 101 was completed sewing to, inserting a Sakishin 103 to the toe portion (a, b, c) .

【0038】袋状に形成された革105aとのび止め材105bと、その間に充填したスポンジ105cで構成されたの中底105を製甲101の裾部の内側に、中底105の周縁部の先端が製甲101の裾部の先端と略一致するように縫い付ける(d、e、f、g)。 [0038] and the spreadability stopper member 105b leather 105a formed in a bag shape, the bottom 105 in the formed of a sponge 105c filled in between the inner side of the skirt portion of Seikabuto 101, the midsole 105 of the peripheral portion tip sewn to tip substantially matching skirt of manufacturing upper 101 (d, e, f, g).

【0039】次に製甲101に木型を入れ、製甲101 [0039] then placed a wooden mold to Seikabuto 101, Seikabuto 101
の裾部の外面に、細長い帯状の細革107を、細革10 Of the outer surface of the skirt, the elongate strip of thin leather 107, thin leather 10
7の下部の先端が製甲101の裾部の先端と略一致するようにすくい縫い糸で縫い付け、細革107の上部を水平方向に起こす(h)。 Lower tip of 7 sewn in the tip approximately coincident as rake suture of the skirt of manufacturing upper 101, causing the upper thin leather 107 in the horizontal direction (h).

【0040】中底105と次に取り付ける合中底108 The insole 105 and then in mounting case bottom 108
とに挟まれる空間にクッション109を挟み、水平に起こした細革107の上部と合中底108の周縁部を出し縫い糸112により縫いつける(i)。 DOO sandwiching a cushion 109 in a space sandwiched between, sewn by sewing thread 112 issues a periphery of the top and engagement in the bottom 108 of the thin leather 107 caused horizontally (i).

【0041】合中底108に表底110を張り付け、かかとを付けグラインダでコバ(表底の周囲の側面)を決めて仕上げをする(j)。 The sticking the outsole 110 into engagement in the bottom 108, the finishing decide edge in grinder with a heel (peripheral side surface of the outsole) (j).

【0042】また、合中底108を用いないで表底11 Further, the outsole 11 without using the interleaf insole 108
0を直接細革107にすくい縫いで縫い付け、かかとを付けグラインダでコバ(表底の周囲の側面)を決めて仕上げをする製法もある(k)。 Sewing with sewing scoops 0 directly to thin leather 107, decide the edge in the grinder with a heel (peripheral side surface of the outsole) also process for finishing (k).

【0043】本実施の形態ではグッドイヤー・ウエルト式に細革107と中底105もしくは合中底108とは出し縫い糸112で固定されているが、両者が係着できれば接着その他の方法で固定しても差し支えない。 [0043] In this embodiment are fixed by out sewing thread 112 is a thin leather 107 and the insole 105 or if insole 108 Goodyear welt type, but both are fixed by engaging wearing hopefully adhesive otherwise no problem also.

【0044】また、中底として袋状に形成された革10 [0044] Also, leather 10 formed as a midsole into a bag
5aとのび止め材105bと、その間に充填したスポンジ105cで構成された中底105を用いているが、中底としての機能を果たせる材料と構造であれば本発明の目的は達成できる。 5a and the spreadability stopper member 105b, but with the bottom 105 in which is constituted by a sponge 105c filled in the meantime, an object of the present invention as long as the material and structure fulfill the function of the insole can be achieved. 例えば1枚の薄手の革であっても構わない。 For example, it may be a single thin leather.

【0045】 [0045]

【発明の効果】以上説明したように本発明は、従来のグッドイヤーウエルト式で靴底の屈曲性を悪くしている原因である硬めの中底を使用しないで軟弱な中底を用いてすくい縫いで細革を取り付けて細革に靴底を取り付けており、かつ製甲の吊り込みを行なわないため、製甲が柔軟性を保つので次のような効果を得られた。 The present invention described above, according to the present invention is stitched rake with insole of soft without using insole causes a is harder to conventional have poor flexibility of the shoe sole in Goodyear welt type in fine and attach the sole attaching leather in thin leather, and since not performed hanging of Seikabuto were obtained the following effects because manufacturing instep maintain flexibility.

【0046】1. [0046] 1. 中底以外は従来のグッドイヤーウエルト式と同一の材料と構造で構成することもできるので、 Since than the insole may be made of the same material and structure as the conventional Goodyear welt type,
グッドイヤーウエルト式独特のスタイルと風格を有する靴を作ることができる。 It is possible to create a shoe with a Goodyear welt type unique style and personality.

【0047】2. [0047] 2. 硬めの中底を使用しないので底の屈曲性がよくなった。 Does not use insole harder flexibility of the bottom is better.

【0048】3. [0048] 3. 厚い一体型の中底を使用しないので軽くなった。 Lighter because it does not use the bottom in the thick one-piece.

【0049】4. [0049] 4. 中底が柔軟性を有するので履いたその日から足に馴染む。 Adapt to the foot from the intraday bottom is wearing because it has flexibility.

【0050】5. [0050] 5. クッション材の入った中底を用いることができるのでクッション性がよい。 Good cushioning properties it is possible to use the insole containing the cushioning material.

【0051】6. [0051] 6. 中底の材質や構造を変化させることで機能を変えることができる。 It is possible to change the function by changing the midsole material and structure.

【0052】7. [0052] 7. 難しい中底のリブへの製甲の裾部の吊込み作業の必要がない。 There is no need manufactured instep of hanging narrowing work of the skirt portion of the ribs of the insole difficult.

【0053】8. [0053] 8. 何回でも底の張り替えができる。 Many times it is replacement of the bottom.

【図面の簡単な説明】 BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

【図1】本発明の実施の形態の靴の構造を示す部分断面斜視図である。 1 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a structure in the form of a shoe of the present invention.

【図2】本発明の実施の形態の靴の製法の説明図である。 FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of the process embodiment of the shoe of the present invention. (a)は完成した製甲の斜視図である。 (A) is a perspective view of the instep Ltd. was completed. (b)はかかとに入れる月型芯の上面図である(c)は爪先部に入れる先芯の上面図である。 (B) is a top view of the moon type core Add to heel (c) is a top view of the toe to put the toe portion. (d)は芯の挿入された製甲の斜視図である。 (D) is a perspective view of the instep Ltd. inserted core. (e)は中底の上面図である。 (E) is a top view of the insole. (f) (F)
は中底の部分断面斜視図である。 Is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the insole. (g)は製甲に中底を縫い付けた状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (G) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which the sewn insole to Seikabuto. (h)は製甲と中底と細革をすくい縫いして細革を水平に起こす状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (H) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state to cause the thin leather horizontally sewing rake insole and thin leather and Seikabuto. (i)は中底の下にクッションを入れ合中底を張り付けて細革と合中底を出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (I) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state where the sewing out fine leather and covering insole by sticking interleaf insole put cushions under the insole. (j)は合中底に表底を張り付けた状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (J) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which the stuck the outsole to the bottom in case. (k)は合中底を用いず表革を直接細革に出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (K) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which stitch out directly thin leather Table leather without a bottom in engagement.

【図3】従来用いられていた各種類の靴の構造の部分断面斜視図である。 3 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the structure of each type of shoe which has been used conventionally. (a)はグッドイヤー・ウエルト式である。 (A) is a Goodyear welt type. (b)はセメント式である。 (B) it is a cement-type. (c)はマッケイ式である。 (C) is a McKay type. (d)はステッチダウン式である。 (D) is a stitch-down. (e)はカリフォルニア式である。 (E) is a California-type. (f)はバルカナイズ式である。 (F) is a vulcanized formula.

【図4】従来のグッドイヤー・ウエルト式の靴の製法の説明図である。 FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram of a conventional method of producing an Goodyear welt type of shoes. (a)は完成した製甲の斜視図である。 (A) is a perspective view of the instep Ltd. was completed.
(b)はかかとに入れる月型芯の上面図である。 (B) is a top view of the moon type core put on the heel. (c) (C)
は爪先部に入れる先芯の上面図である。 Is a top view of the toe to put the toe portion. (d)は木型に被せた製甲の斜視図である。 (D) is a perspective view of the instep manufacturing that over the wooden mold. (e)はリブ付き中底の上面図である。 (E) is a top view in ribbed bottom. (f)はリブ付き中底の部分断面斜視図である。 (F) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view in ribbed bottom. (g)はリブ付き中底への製甲の吊り込み状態の斜視図である。 (G) is a perspective view of a state hanging instep manufacturing into ribbed bottom. (h)は製甲とリブと細革をすくい縫いして細革を水平に起こす状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (H) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state to cause the thin leather horizontally sewing rake Seikabuto rib and thin leather.
(i)は中底の下にクッションを入れ合中底を張り付けて細革と合中底を出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (I) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state where the sewing out fine leather and covering insole by sticking interleaf insole put cushions under the insole. (j)は合中底に表底を張り付けた状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (J) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which the stuck the outsole to the bottom in case. (k)は合中底を用いず表革を直接細革に出し縫いした状態の部分断面斜視図である。 (K) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which stitch out directly thin leather Table leather without a bottom in engagement.

【符号の説明】 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS

101、401 製甲 102、402 月型芯 103、403 先芯 105、405 中底 105a 革 105b のび止め材 105c スポンジ 107、308、407、708 細革 108、408 合中底 109、409 クッション 110、410 表底 111、411 すくい縫い糸 112、312、412、712 出し縫い糸 301、501、601、701、801、901 101, 401 102, 402 Seikabuto May type core 103,403 Sakishin 105,405 in the bottom 105a leather 105b extending stop material 105c sponge 107,308,407,708 thin leather 108,408 Go in the bottom 109,409 cushion 110, 410 table bottom 111,411 rake sewing thread 112,312,412,712 out sewing thread 301,501,601,701,801,901
甲革 302、502、602、702、802 裏革 303、503、603 タブラー 304、504、604、704 表底 305、505、605、705、805、905 Upper 302,502,602,702,802 back leather 303,503,603 tabla 304,504,604,704 Table bottom 305,505,605,705,805,905
中底 306、506、606 中物 310 リブ 311 すくい縫い糸 406 リブ 514 接着剤 507、607、707 敷革 613 マッケー縫糸 804 プラットフォーム 809 プラットフォーム巻革 915 底ゴム 916 金型 Insole 306,506,606 midsole 310 ribs 311 scoop suture 406 rib 514 adhesive 507,607,707 Shikigawa 613 Makke thread 804 platform 809 platform winding leather 915 base rubber 916 mold

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (56)参考文献 特開 平4−51903(JP,A) 特開 平6−141903(JP,A) 実開 昭53−84443(JP,U) (58)調査した分野(Int.Cl. 6 ,DB名) A43B 1/00 - 23/30 B29D 31/50 ────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── of the front page continued (56) reference Patent flat 4-51903 (JP, a) JP flat 6-141903 (JP, a) JitsuHiraku Akira 53-84443 (JP, U) (58) were investigated field (Int.Cl. 6, DB name) A43B 1/00 - 23/30 B29D 31/50

Claims (4)

    (57)【特許請求の範囲】 (57) [the claims]
  1. 【請求項1】 かかと部に月型芯が、爪先部に先芯が挿入され、甲革と裏革とを具備した完成した製甲と底部とを備えた靴において、 前記底部が、表底と柔軟な中底から構成され、前記中底の周縁部が、前記製甲の裾部全周の内側に端部を合わせて同方向に一体となるように袋状に縫い糸のみで縫い付けられ、細長い帯状の細革の下部が前記製甲の裾部全周の外側に端部を合わせてすくい縫い糸で縫い付けられ、 Month-type core to 1. A heel portion, toe is inserted into the toe portion, the shoe and a manufacturing upper and bottom completed equipped with the upper leather and leather back, the bottom, the outsole and is constructed from a flexible bottom peripheral edge of the insole is sewn only on sutures in a bag shape so as to be integrated into the steel shell of the skirt entire circumference in the same direction together end inwardly , an elongated strip of the lower portion of the thin leather is sewn by sewing thread rake combined end outside the entire circumference skirt of the steel shell,
    略直角方向に外側に曲げられた前記細革の上部の下面の全周に前記表底が係着されている、 中底と製甲とが直接 Table bottom all around the upper part of the lower surface of substantially the thin leather bent outwardly at right angles is engaged, insole and manufacturing instep and direct
    1本の糸のみで接合されたことを特徴とする靴。 Shoe, characterized in that joined only one thread.
  2. 【請求項2】 かかと部に月型芯が、爪先部に先芯が挿入され、甲革と裏革とを具備した完成した製甲と底部とを備えた靴において、 前記底部が、表底と合中底と柔軟な中底から構成され、 Moon type wick wherein the heel portion, toe is inserted into the toe portion, the shoe and a manufacturing upper and bottom completed equipped with the upper leather and leather back, the bottom, the outsole It is composed of a flexible insole and insole engagement and,
    前記中底の周縁部が、前記製甲の裾部全周の内側に端部を合わせて同方向に一体となるように袋状に縫い糸のみ Peripheral edge of the insole is, together the steel instep of the foot part end portion on the inner side of the entire circumference in the same direction only suture in a bag shape so as to be integrated
    縫い付けられ、細長い帯状の細革の下部が前記製甲の裾部全周の外側に端部を合わせてすくい縫い糸で縫い付けられ、略直角方向に外側に曲げられた前記細革の上部の下面の全周に前記合中底の周縁部が係着され、前記合中底の下面に表底が係着されている、 中底と製甲とが直 In sewn, elongated strip-like lower portion of the thin leather is sewn by sewing thread rake combined end outside the entire circumference skirt of the steel shell, the thin leather top of which is bent outwardly in a substantially perpendicular direction straight of the entire periphery of the case in bottom periphery engaged in the lower surface, the outsole to a lower surface of the alloy in the bottom has been engaged, and the midsole and manufacturing instep
    接1本の糸のみで接合されたことを特徴とする靴。 Shoe, characterized in that it is joined only at thread contact one.
  3. 【請求項3】 請求項1に記載の構造の靴の製法であって、 完成した製甲のかかと部に月型芯を、爪先部に先芯を挿入する工程と、 中底を前記製甲の裾部全周の内側に、該中底の周縁部の先端が前記製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するように同方向に縫い付ける工程と、 前記製甲の裾部全周の外面に、細長い帯状の細革を、該細革の下部の先端が前記製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するようにすくい縫い糸で縫い付けて、前記細革の上部を略直角方向に外側に曲げる工程と、 略直角方向に曲げられた前記細革の上部の下面の全周に、前記中底との間に緩衝材を挟んで、表底を係着する工程と、 前記表底の下面にかかとを係着し、全体を仕上げる工程とを有する靴の製法。 3. A process for preparing shoe structure according to claim 1, a month-type core in the heel portion of the finished manufactured Jia, inserting a Sakishin the toe portion, the steel upper and insole the skirt on the inside of the entire circumference, a step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip of the peripheral edge of the middle bottom is substantially coincident with the tip of the steel upper skirt portion, the skirt portion the entire circumference of the outer surface of the steel shell in an elongated strip of thin leather, bottom tip of said sub leather sewn in the tip and sewing thread rake as substantially to match the made instep of the foot portion, outside the upper portion of the thin leather in a direction substantially perpendicular a step of bending, the entire circumference of the upper portion of the lower surface of substantially the thin leather bent at right angles, across the buffer material between said insole, a step of fastening the outsole, the underside of the table bottom to engaged the heel, preparation of shoes and a step to finish the whole.
  4. 【請求項4】 請求項2に記載の構造の靴の製法であって、 完成した製甲のかかと部に月型芯を、爪先部に先芯を挿入する工程と、 中底を前記製甲の裾部全周の内側に、該中底の周縁部の先端が前記製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するように同方向に縫い付ける工程と、 前記製甲の裾部周の外面に、細長い帯状の細革を、該細革の下部の先端が前記製甲の裾部の先端と略一致するようにすくい縫い糸で縫い付けて、前記細革の上部を略直角方向に外側に曲げる工程と、 略直角方向に曲げられた前記細革の上部の下面の全周に、前記中底との間に緩衝材を挟んで、底の中間部材である合中底を係着する工程と、 前記合中底の下面に表底を係着する工程と、 前記表底の下面にかかとを係着し、全体を仕上げる工程とを有する靴の製法。 4. A process for preparing shoe structure according to claim 2, the month-type core in the heel portion of the finished manufactured Jia, inserting a Sakishin the toe portion, the steel upper and insole the skirt on the inside of the entire circumference, a step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip of the peripheral edge of the middle bottom is substantially coincident with the tip of the steel instep of skirt, the skirt circumference of the outer surface of the steel shell , an elongated strip of thin leather, bottom tip of said sub leather sewn in the tip and sewing thread rake as substantially to match the made instep of the foot portion, bent outwardly substantially perpendicularly to the top of the thin leather a step, the entire circumference of the upper portion of the lower surface of substantially the thin leather bent at right angles, across the buffer material between said insole, a step of fastening the coupling insole is an intermediate member of the bottom a step of fastening the outsole to a lower surface of the alloy in the bottom, and engaged the heel on the lower surface of the table base, preparation of a shoe and a step of finishing the whole.
JP765596A 1996-01-19 1996-01-19 Shoes and the method of preparation new structure Expired - Fee Related JP2908304B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP765596A JP2908304B2 (en) 1996-01-19 1996-01-19 Shoes and the method of preparation new structure

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP765596A JP2908304B2 (en) 1996-01-19 1996-01-19 Shoes and the method of preparation new structure

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JPH09193260A true JPH09193260A (en) 1997-07-29
JP2908304B2 true JP2908304B2 (en) 1999-06-21

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP4614498B2 (en) * 2000-04-24 2011-01-19 株式会社リーガルコーポレーション Shoes and the bottom in the Goodyear welt type process
US8127468B2 (en) 2009-06-10 2012-03-06 Wolverine World Wide, Inc. Footwear construction
EP2456332B1 (en) * 2009-07-23 2016-12-14 Novarese S.R.L. Operating process for the production of an insole for footwear and insole thus obtained
JP2015123331A (en) * 2013-12-27 2015-07-06 株式会社リーガルコーポレーション Outsole and shoes using the same
KR101525593B1 (en) * 2014-10-08 2015-06-10 주식회사 수아르떼 Shoes and method of manufacturing the same

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