JP2019163555A - Long and short composite yarn and fiber structure made therefrom - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a composite yarn and a fiber structure capable of imparting uneven grain by utilizing two kinds of staple fibers having differences in fineness and fiber length, and improving production efficiency and spinnability by imparting a long fiber to the composite fiber.SOLUTION: There is provided a long and short composite yarn in which two kinds of synthetic staple fibers A and B and a long fiber C are present. Between A and B, the difference in fineness is 3 dtex or more, a difference in fiber length is 20 mm or more, and a mixing ratio of at least one of the staple fibers A and B is 10 to 50 wt.%. The mixing ratio of the staple fibers A and B to the whole yarn is 50 wt.% or more.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to a long / short composite yarn and a fiber structure using the same.

  Conventionally, not only one type of spun yarn but also two or more types of yarns are mixed to produce raw cotton in the blended cotton process, sliver in the kneading process or roving process, It has been performed in various ways, such as a method of mixing coarse yarn in the process and a method of twisting the finished single yarn in the twisting process.

  Since the blended yarn manufactured by the conventional method has the same fineness, or the fiber length is uniformly blended between the short fibers, the characteristics of each yarn type are always constant in the longitudinal direction of the spun yarn, A fiber structure using the blended yarn has a constant physical property and functionality and has a stable quality, and is generally preferred and used.

  On the other hand, there is a use which does not like mixing uniformly, and a representative thing is a kite thread. The warp yarn is not uniformly blended due to the poor dispersibility of the blended cotton by making the blended yarn of different colors or the raw cotton of the different dyeing at a low blending rate of 10% by weight or less. However, there is a problem that the unevenness expression of the silk thread is poor because the change in the mixing ratio is poor, and various other studies have been made.

  For example, when the short fiber group having a fiber length 1.1 times or more of the average fiber length of the short fiber group constituting the spun yarn is A component and the short fiber group having a fiber length less than the average fiber length is B component A spun yarn comprising 5 to 50% by weight of component A and having an average fineness of component A / average fineness of component B of 0.8 or less, or a single fiber fineness of 1. Spinning comprising polyester hollow short fiber A having 5 to 4.0 denier and polyester short fiber B having single fiber fineness of 0.4 to 2.0 denier and 1 to 3 denier lower than short fiber A. Yarn (Patent Document 2), including a spinning step in which a plurality of roving yarns, which are spinning raw materials, are blended at a predetermined ratio with an excessively long fiber longer than the raw fiber length and spun at a low twist number. A method for producing spun yarn (Patent Document 3) has been proposed.

JP-A-9-49132 JP-A-8-260274 JP, 2006-191178, A

  However, in the methods described in Patent Documents 1 to 3, since the difference between the fineness and the fiber length in the two types of short fiber groups is small, the uneven expression of the spun yarn may be common.

  In order to improve the expression of the unevenness of the spun yarn, if the difference between the fiber and the fiber length is increased and the spinning is attempted, the strength of the uneven portion of the spun yarn is lowered and the yarn breakage occurs, which is industrially practical. Spinning was difficult. It was possible to obtain a spun yarn with a feeling of wrinkle if the twisting factor was increased and spinning, but this method has a limitation on the production condition called twisting factor, so that the spinning efficiency can be improved. It was difficult, and there was a limit to the design of the spun yarn and fabric obtained.

  In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention makes it possible to increase the productivity and diversify the design of spun yarns and fabrics by adding the short fibers by adding the short fiber fineness and fiber length difference of the two types of short fibers. It is an object of the present invention to provide a long and short composite yarn having irregular wrinkles and a fiber structure using the same.

  The long and short composite yarn of the present invention and the fiber structure using the same have the following configuration in order to solve the above-mentioned problems.

  (1) A short and long composite yarn in which short fibers A and B, which are two types of synthetic fibers, and a long fiber C are present, wherein the difference in fineness between A and B is 3 dtex or more, the fiber length difference is 20 mm or more, A long / short composite yarn in which the mixing ratio of one of the short fibers A and B is 10 to 50% by weight, and the total mixing ratio of the short fibers A and B is 50% by weight or more based on the entire yarn.

  (2) The long / short composite yarn according to (1), wherein the fineness of the short fiber A is 0.5 to 2.2 dtex and the fineness of the short fiber B is 3.5 to 10.0 dtex.

  (3) The long / short composite yarn according to (1) or (2), wherein the short fiber A has a fiber length range of 38 to 51 mm, and the short fiber B has a fiber length range of 60 mm or more.

  (4) A fiber structure using at least a part of the long and short composite spun yarn according to any one of (1) to (3).

  According to the present invention, the short fiber fineness and the fiber length difference of the two types of short fibers can be imparted, and by providing the long fibers, the strength can be maintained even when the number of twists is low, the yarn breakage is suppressed, and the productivity is good. It is possible to provide a long / short composite yarn having irregularities and a high degree of freedom in the design of spun yarns and fabrics, and a fiber structure using the same.

  Hereinafter, the best forms of the long and short composite yarns with uneven wrinkles and the fiber structure will be described.

  In the long and short composite yarn of the present invention, two or more kinds of short fibers are mixed. Here, two or more types of short fibers are counted as one yarn type having different fiber lengths and finenesses. For example, polyester fibers and nylon fibers, which are different materials, are counted as one type if they have the same fiber length and fineness.

  The material constituting the single fibers A and B is not particularly limited, and any ordinary synthetic fiber such as polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, nylon fiber, acrylic fiber, etc. can be easily applied. it can. Of these, polyester fibers are more preferable because of their low cost.

  The short fiber constituting the long and short composite yarn contains at least two kinds of the short fiber A and the short fiber B, and is not limited to the short fibers A and B, and may include other short fibers. As other short fiber materials, polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, nylon fibers, acrylic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, natural fibers, and the like can be easily applied.

  The cross-sectional shape of the short fiber constituting the long / short composite yarn is not particularly limited, and any shape may be used.

  The fineness difference between the short fibers A and B of the composite yarn is 3 dtex or more. If it is less than 3 dtex, uneven wrinkles cannot be obtained. A more preferable difference in fineness between the short fibers A and B is 4 dtex or more. Although there is no restriction | limiting in particular in the upper limit of a fineness difference, It is preferable that it is 10 dtex or less from the point of the process pass of spinning.

  For example, the fineness range of the short fiber having the smaller fineness is preferably 0.5 to 2.2 dtex, more preferably 0.7 to 2.2 dtex from the viewpoint of use for clothing.

  The fiber length difference between the short fibers A and B of the composite yarn is 20 mm or more. A more preferable range of the fiber length is 22 to 64 mm. When the fiber length difference is less than 20 mm, as in the fineness difference, the uneven wrinkles that appear due to uneven drawing cannot be obtained. The upper limit of the fiber length difference is not particularly limited, but is preferably 102 mm or less from the viewpoint of the spinning machine mechanism.

  By using the short fibers A and B as described above, it becomes possible to obtain a spun yarn that has a texture that is uneven and has a natural feel of hemp tone that gives the fabric an unprecedented new appearance. .

  When the composite yarn is 100% by weight, the mixing ratio of one of the short fibers A and B is 10 to 50% by weight. When the mixing ratio of the one short fiber is less than 10% by weight, the mixing ratio is too small, so that uneven wrinkles due to stretching unevenness cannot be expressed easily. On the other hand, when the mixing ratio of the one short fiber exceeds 50% by weight, the characteristics of the one short fiber are emphasized, and it becomes difficult to develop the stretching unevenness. Further, when the total mixing ratio of the short fibers A and B in the composite yarn is 50% by weight or more, and preferably 50 to 80% by weight, uneven wrinkles due to uneven stretching can be imparted.

  Next, the long fiber C used in the present invention preferably has a total fineness of 40 dtex or more and less than 100 dtex, and preferably 50 to 80 dtex. The proportion of long fibers C in the composite yarn is preferably 3 to 30% by weight. By being in this range, excellent strength can be maintained, and excellent process passability can be achieved without occurrence of yarn breakage in the spinning process and supply failure due to insufficient number of cross-section fibers.

  Although the material which comprises the long fiber C is not specifically limited, All the usual synthetic fibers, for example, a polyester fiber, a nylon fiber, etc. can be applied preferably easily. Of these, polyester fibers are preferred because they are inexpensive and can maintain yarn strength.

  The form of the composite yarn may be a ring spun yarn, or may be an air spun yarn or a bundle spun yarn.

  The yarn count of the composite yarn of the present invention is preferably in the range of 5 to 100 (English), but can be appropriately selected according to the application. For example, in the case of a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, 10 to 100 (cotton type) is more preferable. For pile fabrics such as carpets, 10-30 (cotton type) is more preferable.

  If the twist coefficient of the composite yarn of the present invention is too small, the concave portion strength of the uneven blended yarn tends to be reduced, and the twist coefficient is preferably 3.0 or more because yarn breakage tends to occur. The upper limit is not limited as long as a desired texture can be obtained, but is preferably 5.0 or less because the touch tends to become harder as the twisting coefficient increases. It is more preferably 4.5 or less from the point that it is difficult to give a feeling of coarseness when it is made into a cloth for clothing such as pants and shirts, and from the point that it can give a soft and excellent texture like commercially available pants and shirts. It is preferably less than 0, more preferably 3.9 or less. In the present invention, practical spinning is possible even with a relatively low twist coefficient as described above, so that productivity can be improved and flexibility in design of spun yarns and fabrics can be increased, thereby achieving diversification. Is possible.

  The composite yarn of the present invention is not limited to a single yarn, but may be a single yarn using two rovings in the spinning process, or a twisting process such as twin yarn or triplet yarn.

  The process of mixing the short fibers A and B of the present invention may be any process as long as it is mixed in a process before blended yarn such as cotton batter, kneading, and gil machine. The process of mixing the long fibers C is basically performed by a spinning machine, but any process can be used as long as it is a process capable of producing spun yarn.

  Next, a fiber structure using the composite yarn of the present invention will be described.

  The fiber structure using the composite yarn of the present invention is not limited, but can be selected depending on the use such as fabrics such as woven fabrics and knitted fabrics including pile fabrics, and textiles such as clothing using these fabrics. .

  For example, when used for a woven fabric, it can be used as a warp and / or a weft of the woven fabric, and can be woven by a normal weaving process. Moreover, when using it for a knitted fabric, it knits by the normal circular knitting and the warp knitting process. The weaving and knitting process may be a generally used process, and the types of loom and knitting machine are not particularly limited. Further, the structure and density of the woven or knitted fabric are selected and not limited by the required texture, physical properties and functionality.

  The obtained green machine is selected according to the material to be used, but is dyed and finished by a general dyeing process and conditions, and becomes a woven or knitted fabric by final finishing. Moreover, you may dye | stain with the raw yarn dye | stained as needed, and the spun yarn before a weaving and knitting process.

  In addition, the composite yarn of the present invention may be used for a part of the fiber structure or may be used for the whole, and may be determined according to its use and purpose.

  Among these, the composite yarn of the present invention can be suitably used for apparel applications, particularly pants and shirts because it can express uneven wrinkles.

  The measurement method and evaluation method in the present invention are as follows.

(1) Appearance evaluation of woven fabric As an evaluation of unevenness of the unevenness, the appearance evaluation of the woven fabric was graded in three stages as follows. A fabric having a natural feeling of unevenness was regarded as a high determination result. In addition, in the class judgment, sensitivity evaluation was performed by 10 people, and the class with the largest number of judgment results was taken as the result.
3rd grade: The fabric has uneven portions and is uneven.
Second grade: There are portions where the uneven portion is clearly present in the fabric, and there are portions where the uneven portion is not present.
First grade: A fabric with no irregularities and no unevenness.

(2) Measurement of fiber length The fiber length (average fiber length: mm) was calculated according to JIS-L1015 (2010) (staple diagram method (Method A)).

(3) Measurement of fineness The short fiber fineness (dtex) was calculated according to JIS-L1015 (2010) -8.5.1.

(4) Measurement of count The count was performed according to JIS-L1095 (2010).

(5) Measurement of twist number The twist number measured the twist number based on JIS-L1095 (2010). Specifically, the twist coefficient (K) was determined using the following formula.
Twisting coefficient (K) = number of twists per inch (T) / √ count ('s)

(6) Measurement of Woven Density Weaving density (warp density and weft density) was measured according to the measurement of the number of yarns per unit length described in JIS L1096 (2010). That is, using a densimeter, the number of interference bands appearing when the densimeter was placed on the fabric was measured, and the number of interference bands was measured at five locations and obtained by simple averaging.

(7) Number of yarn breaks in spinning machine The number of yarn breaks / 1000 SP / hour was measured and indicated as ◎ for 5 or less, ○ for 5 to 15 or × for 15 or more.

(8) Fine spinning production The quantity per 1000 SPL was calculated as the production quantity of spun yarn by the following method.
Production (kg / h) = spinning speed (rpm) / twisting number (T / m) /count×0.5911×60 (min) × number of spindles (spl) / 1000 (g) × mechanical efficiency (% )

(Example 1)
The short fiber A is a polyester short fiber having a fineness of 1.45 dtex and a fiber length of 38 mm (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., raw cotton type T403) (short fiber a), and the short fiber B is a fineness of 7.8 dtex and a fiber length of 64 mm. Polyester short fibers (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., raw cotton type T201) (short fibers b), and polyester fibers having a fineness of 56 dtex as long fibers A (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., 56T-24FY-262) were prepared.

  24.5% by weight of short fiber a and 56.5% by weight of short fiber b are mixed in the cotton-cutting process, 19% by weight of long fiber A is mixed in the spinning process, 20 ′S in the cotton count, and the twisting factor is 3. 2 composite yarns were obtained. There was little occurrence of yarn breakage, and production efficiency and spinning were good.

  The obtained blended yarn was used as the weft, the polyester filament of 56 dtex-24 filaments was used as the warp, and a normal rapier loom was used. The woven structure was plain weave, the weave density was 110 warps / 2.54 cm, and the weft was 50. A fabric / 2.54 cm fabric was obtained.

  The obtained woven fabric had a distinct appearance of irregularities and a woven fabric having an unprecedented new appearance with a hemp-like natural unevenness. The touch was soft and good, and the texture was preferably applied to pants and shirts.

(Example 2)
In addition to the short fibers a and b and the long fibers A similar to those in Example 1, polyester short fibers c having a fineness of 2.2 dtex and a fiber length of 64 mm were prepared.

  24.5% by weight of short fiber a, 32.3% by weight of short fiber b, 24.2% by weight of short fiber c, 24% by weight, mixed in the cotton spinning process, 19% by weight of long fiber A in the spinning process, A composite yarn having a count of 20 ′S and a twist coefficient of 3.2 was obtained. The occurrence of yarn breakage was extremely small, and the production efficiency and spinnability were good.

  A woven fabric was obtained from the resulting blended yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1.

  The resulting woven fabric had a distinctly uneven texture, and was a woven fabric having an uneven sensation similar to that of Example 1 with a natural, uneven feel. The touch was soft and good, and the texture was preferably applied to pants and shirts.

(Example 3)
A short fiber d similar to the short fiber b was prepared except that the short fiber fineness was changed from 7.8 dtex to 5.0 dtex instead of the short fiber a, the long fiber A, and the short fiber b as in Example 1. . After blending in the blended cotton process at the same blending ratio as in Example 1, 19% by weight of long fiber A was mixed in the spinning process, and a composite yarn having a cotton yarn count of 20'S and a twist coefficient of 3.2 was obtained. . The occurrence of yarn breakage was extremely small and the spinnability was good. A woven fabric was obtained from the obtained composite yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1. The resulting woven fabric had a distinctly uneven texture, and was a woven fabric having an uneven sensation similar to that of Example 1 with a natural, uneven feel. The touch was soft and good, and the texture was preferably applied to pants and shirts.

Example 4
Short fibers A, B, C and long fibers A similar to Example 2 were prepared.

  30.0% by weight of short fiber a, 30.0% by weight of short fiber b and 21% of short fiber c are mixed in the cotton-cutting process, 19% by weight of long fiber A is mixed in the spinning process, and 20 times in cotton count. A composite yarn having 'S and a twist coefficient of 3.2 was obtained. The occurrence of yarn breakage was extremely small, and the production efficiency and spinnability were good. A woven fabric was obtained from the resulting blended yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1. The resulting woven fabric had a distinctly uneven texture, and was a woven fabric having an uneven sensation similar to that of Example 1 with a natural, uneven feel. The touch was soft and good, and the texture was preferably applied to pants and shirts.

(Example 5)
After preparing the same short fiber a, short fiber b and long fiber A as in Example 1 and blending in the blended cotton process at the same blend rate as in Example 1, the normal spinning process was followed by 20 ′ cotton count. When S and a twist coefficient of 4.0 blended yarn were spun, the occurrence of yarn breakage was small and the spinning property was good. The production per unit time was 20% lower than that of Example 1 due to the high twist coefficient. A woven fabric was obtained from the resulting blended yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1. The resulting woven fabric has a distinctly uneven texture, and has a texture similar to that of Example 1, but is softer than that of Example 1 and applied to pants and shirts. However, depending on the application, the texture could be used without any problem. It was found that by using long fibers in combination, spun yarn can be obtained regardless of the twisting coefficient, and the degree of freedom in designing the fabric is great.

(Comparative Example 1)
Only the short fibers a used in the examples were mixed in a cotton-spun process, and after a normal spinning process, a spun yarn having a cotton count of 20 ′S and a twist coefficient of 3.2 was obtained. The occurrence of yarn breakage was extremely small, and the production efficiency and spinnability were good. A woven fabric was obtained from the obtained spun yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having no uneven ridges.

(Comparative Example 2)
The same short fiber a and short fiber b as in Example 1 were prepared, 30.0% by weight of the short fiber a and 70.0% by weight of the short fiber b were mixed in the blended cotton process, and passed through a normal spinning process. When spun a mixed yarn with a cotton count of 20'S and a twisting factor of 3.2, yarn breakage occurred frequently due to the low strength of the recessed portion of the spun yarn, and a spun yarn that could be woven could be obtained. There wasn't. As a result, it was judged that there was no industrial practical productivity because the fabric could not be prepared.

  As a result of setting the twist coefficient to 4.0 in the same yarn configuration as described above, the occurrence of yarn breakage was reduced and the spinning property was improved, but the production amount per unit time was 20% lower than that in Example 1. It was. A woven fabric was obtained from the resulting blended yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1. The resulting woven fabric has a distinctly uneven texture, and has a texture similar to that of Example 1, but is softer than that of Example 1 and applied to pants and shirts. There was a hard texture.

  From these results, it was found that when long fibers are not used, it is necessary to increase the twisting coefficient, and as a result, the woven fabric tends to become hard, and the degree of freedom in designing spun yarns and fabrics is small.

(Comparative Example 4)
A short fiber e similar to the short fiber a was prepared except that the fiber length was changed from 38 mm to 64 mm instead of the short fiber b, the long fiber A, and the short fiber a as in Example 1. After blending the short fiber b and the short fiber e in the blended cotton process at the same mixing ratio as in Example 1, 19% by weight of the long fiber A was mixed in the spinning process, 20 ′S in the cotton count, and the twist coefficient 3 A composite yarn of 2 was obtained. The occurrence of yarn breakage was extremely small and the spinnability was good. A woven fabric was obtained from the obtained composite yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1.

  The obtained woven fabric was not a perfect rugged wrinkle because there was a portion where the concavo-convex sensation was clearly separated and a portion where there was no ruggedness.

(Comparative Example 5)
A short fiber e similar to the short fiber b was prepared except that the short fiber fineness was changed from 7.8 dtex to 1.45 dtex instead of the short fiber a, the long fiber A, and the short fiber b as in Example 1. . After blending in the blended cotton process at the same blend ratio as in Example 1, 19% by weight of the long fiber A was mixed in the spinning process, and a composite yarn having a cotton yarn count of 20 ′S and a twisting factor of 4.0 was obtained. . The occurrence of yarn breakage was extremely small and the spinnability was good. A woven fabric was obtained from the obtained composite yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having no uneven ridges.

  Although it does not specifically limit as a use of the blended yarn of this invention, For example, it can use suitably for a woven / knitted fabric. It is particularly suitable for fabrics and bedding that are good for clothing, inner and outer shirts, pants and the like. The structure of the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, and may be appropriately selected depending on the application. Further, regarding yarn use, other yarns may be knitted and woven as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

Claims (4)

A short / long composite yarn in which short fibers A and B, which are two types of synthetic fibers, and a long fiber C are present, a difference in fineness between A and B is 3 dtex or more, a fiber length difference is 20 mm or more, and at least the short fiber A A long / short composite yarn in which the mixing ratio of one of B and B is 10 to 50% by weight and the total mixing ratio of the short fibers A and B is 50% by weight or more based on the total yarn. The long / short composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the fineness of the short fiber A is 0.5 to 2.2 dtex, and the fineness of the short fiber B is 3.5 to 10.0 dtex. The long and short composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the short fiber A has a fiber length range of 38 to 51 mm, and the short fiber B has a fiber length range of 60 mm or more. A fiber structure using at least a part of the long and short composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3.