JP2016155790A - Method of evaluating natural finish of makeup skin - Google Patents
Method of evaluating natural finish of makeup skin Download PDFInfo
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本発明は、化粧肌の自然な仕上りを評価する方法に関する。 The present invention relates to a method for evaluating the natural finish of makeup skin.
従来、化粧肌の仕上りの評価は、専門パネルによる官能評価に委ねられており、専門パネルがいないと評価できず、化粧料のより迅速な開発の障害になっていた。
一方、分光反射スペクトルの特性を利用して、くすみのない自然で健康的な化粧肌を得ることができる化粧料が検討されている（特許文献１、特許文献２、特許文献３）。
Conventionally, the evaluation of the finish of the makeup skin has been left to sensory evaluation by a specialized panel, which cannot be evaluated without a specialized panel, which has been an obstacle to more rapid development of cosmetics.
On the other hand, cosmetics that can obtain natural and healthy makeup skin without dullness using the characteristics of the spectral reflection spectrum have been studied (Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2, and Patent Document 3).
しかしながら、特許文献１〜３に記載された方法では、肌色、特に肌の分光反射率の影響を受けるため、化粧肌の仕上がりを定量的に評価することは困難である。
従って、専門パネル等の官能評価によらず、化粧肌の自然な仕上りを正確かつ定量的に評価できる方法が求められている。
However, since the methods described in Patent Documents 1 to 3 are affected by skin color, particularly the spectral reflectance of the skin, it is difficult to quantitatively evaluate the finish of the makeup skin.
Therefore, there is a need for a method that can accurately and quantitatively evaluate the natural finish of makeup skin, regardless of sensory evaluation of a specialized panel or the like.
本発明者らは、素肌と化粧後の肌の分光反射スペクトルを測定し、その反射率の比の曲線を求めることにより、化粧肌の自然な仕上りを正確かつ定量的に評価できることを見出した。 The present inventors have found that the natural finish of the makeup skin can be accurately and quantitatively evaluated by measuring the spectral reflection spectrum of the bare skin and the skin after makeup, and determining the reflectance ratio curve.
本発明は、素肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）と、化粧後の肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）を測定し、各波長における（Ｙ１）に対する（Ｙ２）の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線を求めることにより、化粧肌の自然な仕上りを評価する方法に関する。 The present invention measures the spectral reflection spectrum (Y1) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the bare skin and the spectral reflection spectrum (Y2) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the skin after makeup, and the spectral reflection of (Y2) with respect to (Y1) at each wavelength. The present invention relates to a method for evaluating the natural finish of makeup skin by obtaining a curve of rate ratio (Y2) / (Y1).
本発明によれば、化粧肌の自然な仕上りを数値化することができ、迅速にかつ正確に評価することができる。また、化粧肌の仕上がりの肌の白浮き感や粉っぽさ、厚塗り感やむらづき感等を詳細に評価することができる。 According to the present invention, the natural finish of makeup skin can be quantified, and can be evaluated quickly and accurately. In addition, it is possible to evaluate in detail the feeling of whitening, powderiness, feeling of thick coating, and feeling of unevenness of the finished skin.
本発明においては、まず、素肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）と、化粧後の肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）を測定する。分光反射スペクトルの測定は、通常の分光測色計を用いて行うことができ、例えば、CM-2600ｄ（コニカミノルタ社製）などを使用することができる。また、イメージング分光器、ハイパースペクトルカメラ、マルチスペクトルカメラなどを用いて測定することもできる。
測定する際の照明条件として用いられる光源の種類は、白熱電球、外部電極型蛍光管、キセノン光、ハロゲン光、ＬＥＤ（Light Emitting Diode）等が挙げられ、照明は１種又は２種以上組み合わせて使用することができる。また、照明の数、照明の位置方向は、目的に応じて設定することができる。
なお、分光反射スペクトルを測定して、化粧肌の仕上がりを評価するのは、皮膚のほか、人工皮膚、樹脂プレート等でも良い。
In the present invention, first, a spectral reflection spectrum (Y1) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the bare skin and a spectral reflection spectrum (Y2) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the skin after makeup are measured. The spectral reflection spectrum can be measured using a normal spectral colorimeter, for example, CM-2600d (manufactured by Konica Minolta) or the like can be used. It can also be measured using an imaging spectrometer, hyperspectral camera, multispectral camera, or the like.
Examples of the light source used as illumination conditions for the measurement include incandescent light bulbs, external electrode fluorescent tubes, xenon light, halogen light, LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes), and the like. Can be used. The number of lights and the position direction of the lights can be set according to the purpose.
In addition to the skin, artificial skin, resin plates, etc. may be used for measuring the spectral reflection spectrum and evaluating the finish of the makeup skin.
測定した分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）及び（Ｙ２）より、素肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）に対する化粧後の肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線を求める。
例えば、図１に示すように、素肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）と、化粧後の肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）より、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線が得られる。
自然な仕上がりの人は、素肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）と、化粧後の肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）がほとんど変わらず、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線は、直線に近い形になる（図１、上段）。
これに対し、不自然な仕上がりの人は、素肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）と、化粧後の肌の分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）の変化が大きく、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線は、４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉと、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIを有する曲線になっている（図１、下段）。
From the measured spectral reflectance spectra (Y1) and (Y2), the curve of the ratio (Y2) / (Y1) of the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y2) of the skin after reflection to the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y1) of the bare skin is obtained. Ask.
For example, as shown in FIG. 1, a curve of spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) is obtained from the spectral reflection spectrum (Y1) of the bare skin and the spectral reflection spectrum (Y2) of the skin after makeup.
For those who have a natural finish, the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y1) of the bare skin and the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y2) of the skin after makeup hardly change, and the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) is a straight line (Fig. 1, top).
In contrast, a person with an unnatural finish has a large change in the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y1) of the bare skin and the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y2) of the skin after makeup, and the ratio of spectral reflectance (Y2) / (Y1). This curve is a curve having a protrusion region I of 420 nm to 470 nm and a protrusion region II of 540 nm to 580 nm (FIG. 1, lower stage).
本発明では、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比を基準として、４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉを指標として、化粧肌の自然な仕上りを評価することができる。基準とする点は、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比であれば良く、測定装置等により、特定点が決められない場合は、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域の平均値であっても良い。 In the present invention, in the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve, the projection region I of 420 nm to 470 nm is used as an index with the spectral reflectance ratio of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm as a reference. As a result, the natural finish of the makeup skin can be evaluated. The reference point may be a ratio of spectral reflectance of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm, and if the specific point cannot be determined by a measuring device or the like, the average value in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm It may be.
分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比を基準として、４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾き、差分又は面積を指標とすることができる。
４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉを指標として、化粧肌の自然な仕上がりを評価することができ、なかでも、化粧後の肌の白浮き感や粉っぽさを評価することができる。
化粧後の肌の白浮き感を精度良く評価できる点から、４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きを指標とするのが好ましい。
分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きが−０．００３以上であるときに、化粧後の肌の白浮き感や粉っぽさがなく、化粧肌が自然な仕上がりであると評価することができる。
In the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1), with reference to the spectral reflectance ratio of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm, the slope, difference or area of the projection region I of 420 nm to 470 nm Can be used as an index.
Using the protrusion region I of 420 nm to 470 nm as an index, the natural finish of the makeup skin can be evaluated, and above all, the whitening feeling and powderiness of the skin after makeup can be evaluated.
It is preferable to use the slope of the protrusion region I of 420 nm to 470 nm as an index from the viewpoint that the feeling of whitening of the skin after makeup can be accurately evaluated.
In the curve of spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1), when the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm is −0.003 or more, the whitening feeling and powderiness of the skin after makeup are observed. It can be evaluated that the makeup skin has a natural finish.
ここで、突起領域Ｉの指標を定義する。
突起領域Ｉとは、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線の波長が４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの領域と、波長４２０ｎｍを示す直線、波長４７０ｎｍを示す直線、基準とした６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比を示す直線で囲まれた部位を示す。
ここで言う傾きとは、４２０ｎｍの波長における分光反射率の比と４７０ｎｍの波長における分光反射率の比を示す点との２点を結んで得られる直線の傾きを意味する。
従って、４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きの計算式は、(（分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）４７０ｎｍ）−（分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）４２０ｎｍ）)／差分波長（４７０ｎｍ−４２０ｎｍ）で算出することにより、求めることができる。
また、差分とは、基準とした６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）と、４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）を引いた値を意味する。
さらに、突起領域Ｉの面積とは、上記で定義した突起領域Ｉの面積を指す。
なお、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線の波長が４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの領域で選択される波長は任意であり、４２０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの範囲であれば、適宜選択することができる。
Here, an index of the projection region I is defined.
The protrusion region I indicates a region where the wavelength of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve is 420 nm to 470 nm and a wavelength of 420 nm in the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve. A portion surrounded by a straight line, a straight line showing a wavelength of 470 nm, and a straight line showing a ratio of spectral reflectances of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm as a reference is shown.
The inclination mentioned here means the inclination of a straight line obtained by connecting two points of the spectral reflectance ratio at a wavelength of 420 nm and the point indicating the spectral reflectance ratio at a wavelength of 470 nm.
Therefore, the calculation formula of the inclination of the protrusion region I of 420 nm to 470 nm is ((spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) 470 nm) − (spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) 420 nm))) / It can obtain | require by calculating with a difference wavelength (470nm-420nm).
The difference is the ratio (Y2) / (Y1) of spectral reflectances at any wavelength in the 640 nm to 660 nm region as a reference and the spectral reflectance at any wavelength in the 420 nm to 470 nm region. It is a value obtained by subtracting the ratio (Y2) / (Y1).
Furthermore, the area of the projection region I refers to the area of the projection region I defined above.
In addition, the wavelength selected in the region where the wavelength of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve is 420 nm to 470 nm is arbitrary, and can be appropriately selected as long as it is in the range of 420 nm to 470 nm.
また、本発明では、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比を基準として、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIを指標として、化粧肌の自然な仕上がりを評価することができる。基準とする点は、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比であれば良く、測定装置等により、特定点が決められない場合は、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域の平均値であっても良い。 Further, in the present invention, in the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1), the projection region II of 540 nm to 580 nm with reference to the spectral reflectance ratio of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm. The natural finish of the makeup skin can be evaluated using as an index. The reference point may be a ratio of spectral reflectance of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm, and if the specific point cannot be determined by a measuring device or the like, the average value in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm It may be.
分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比を基準として、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIの差分又は面積を指標とすることができる。
５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIを指標として、化粧肌の自然な仕上がりを評価することができ、なかでも、化粧後の肌の厚塗り感やむらづき感を評価することができる。
化粧後の肌の厚塗り感を精度良く評価できる点から、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれかの点と、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIのいずれかの点の差分を指標とすることが好ましい。
なかでも、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比と、５５０ｎｍとの差分を求めるのが好ましく、差分は、例えば、６５０ｎｍの分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）を基準として、５５０ｎｍの分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）との差分により、求めることができる。
分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比と、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIのいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比との差分が０．１０以下、更に、０．０６以下であるときに、化粧後の肌の厚塗り感やむらづき感がなく、化粧肌が自然な仕上がりであると評価することができる。
In the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1), the difference or area of the protrusion region II of 540 nm to 580 nm is used as an index with the spectral reflectance ratio of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm as a reference It can be.
Using the projection region II of 540 nm to 580 nm as an index, the natural finish of the makeup skin can be evaluated, and above all, the feeling of thick coating and unevenness of the skin after makeup can be evaluated.
It is preferable to use the difference between any point in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm and any point in the projection region II of 540 nm to 580 nm as an index from the viewpoint that the feeling of thick coating of the skin after makeup can be accurately evaluated.
Especially, it is preferable to obtain the difference between the spectral reflectance ratio of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm and 550 nm, and the difference is, for example, the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) of 650 nm. ) On the basis of the difference from the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) of 550 nm.
In the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1), the spectral reflectance ratio of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm and the spectral of any wavelength of the projection region II of 540 nm to 580 nm. When the difference from the reflectance ratio is 0.10 or less, and further 0.06 or less, it is evaluated that the makeup skin has a natural finish without the feeling of thick coating or unevenness of the skin after makeup. be able to.
ここで、突起領域IIの指標を定義する。
突起領域IIとは、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線の波長が５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの領域と、波長５４０ｎｍを示す直線、波長５８０ｎｍを示す直線、基準とした６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比を示す直線で囲まれた部位を示す。
ここで言う差分とは、基準とした６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）と、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）を引いた値を意味する。
また、突起領域IIの面積とは、上記で定義した突起領域IIの面積を指す。
なお、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線の波長が５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの領域で選択される波長は任意であり、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの範囲であれば、適宜選択することができる。
Here, an index of the projection region II is defined.
The protrusion region II indicates a region where the wavelength of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve is 540 nm to 580 nm and a wavelength of 540 nm in the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve. A part surrounded by a straight line, a straight line showing a wavelength of 580 nm, and a straight line showing a ratio of spectral reflectances of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm as a reference is shown.
The difference here is the ratio (Y2) / (Y1) of the spectral reflectance of any wavelength in the 640 nm to 660 nm region as a reference and the spectral reflection of any wavelength in the 540 nm to 580 nm region. It means a value obtained by subtracting the ratio of ratios (Y2) / (Y1).
Further, the area of the protrusion region II refers to the area of the protrusion region II defined above.
In addition, the wavelength selected in the region where the wavelength of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve is in the range of 540 nm to 580 nm is arbitrary, and can be appropriately selected in the range of 540 nm to 580 nm.
さらに、本発明では、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６４０ｎｍ〜６６０ｎｍの領域のいずれか任意の波長の分光反射率の比を基準として、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きを示す座標軸と、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIのいずれかの点との差分を示す座標軸を含み、プロットされたグラフから、肌の自然な仕上りを評価することができる。
例えば、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きを横軸に、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIのいずれかの点、好ましくは、５５０ｎｍと基準点の差分を縦軸にしたグラフに、測定したそれぞれの点をプロットしたとき、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きが大きく（０に近い）、５４０ｎｍ〜５８０ｎｍの突起領域IIのいずれかの点との差分が小さいほど、化粧肌が自然な仕上がりであると評価することができる。
Furthermore, in the present invention, in the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1), the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm with reference to the spectral reflectance ratio of any wavelength in the region of 640 nm to 660 nm. The natural finish of the skin can be evaluated from the plotted graph including the coordinate axis indicating the difference between the coordinate axis indicating the inclination of the curve and the point of any one of the protrusion regions II of 540 nm to 580 nm.
For example, each of the measured values in a graph in which the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm is plotted on the horizontal axis, and any point of the projection region II of 540 nm to 580 nm, preferably the difference between 550 nm and the reference point is plotted on the vertical axis. When plotting points, the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm is large (close to 0), and the smaller the difference from any point of the projection region II of 540 nm to 580 nm, the more natural the makeup skin is. Can be evaluated.
実施例１
普段から化粧肌の仕上りに不自然さの悩みのある人とない人を対象者とし、専門美容部員が、表１に示す組成のパウダーファンデーションの同量をスポンジで各対象者の肌に塗布した後、専門パネルが「自然な仕上がり」であるか、「不自然な仕上がり」であるかを評価した。
一方、各対象者について、素肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）と、パウダーファンデーション塗布後の肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）を測定した。測定装置は、イメージング分光器 Ｖ８Ｅ（ＪＦＥテクノリサーチ社製）を用い、光源として、キセノン拡散光（７０００ｌｘｓ）を、被写体の前方上側から照射して、肌の分光反射率を測定した。
なお、表１に示す組成のパウダーファンデーションは、以下の方法により製造した。
Example 1
Targeted individuals who do not have any unnaturalness in the finish of their makeup skin and those who do not have any unnatural problems, the professional beauty staff applied the same amount of powder foundation with the composition shown in Table 1 to each subject's skin using a sponge. Later, it was evaluated whether the specialized panel had a “natural finish” or “unnatural finish”.
On the other hand, for each subject, a spectral reflection spectrum (Y1) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the bare skin and a spectral reflection spectrum (Y2) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the skin after applying the powder foundation were measured. The measurement apparatus used an imaging spectrometer V8E (manufactured by JFE Techno-Research Corporation), and irradiated the xenon diffused light (7000 lxs) as a light source from the front upper side of the subject to measure the spectral reflectance of the skin.
In addition, the powder foundation of the composition shown in Table 1 was manufactured by the following method.
（製造方法）
すべての粉体成分を混合・粉砕した後、油相成分を加えて混合し、得られた混合物をさらに粉砕機で粉砕した。ここで得られた粉砕物を、容器に充填し、充填量１０．０ｇ、成型圧１５００kgで成型して、パウダーファンデーションを得た。
(Production method)
After mixing and pulverizing all the powder components, the oil phase component was added and mixed, and the resulting mixture was further pulverized by a pulverizer. The pulverized product obtained here was filled in a container and molded with a filling amount of 10.0 g and a molding pressure of 1500 kg to obtain a powder foundation.
測定された分光反射スペクトルより、対象者ごとに、素肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）に対する、パウダーファンデーション塗布後の肌における４２０ｎｍ〜７００ｎｍの分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ２）の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線を求めた。
専門パネルにより評価された自然の仕上がりの人と、不自然な仕上がりの人の各一例について、分光反射スペクトル（Ｙ１）、（Ｙ２）及び分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線を図２に示す。
From the measured spectral reflectance spectrum, for each subject, the ratio of the spectral reflectance of the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y2) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the skin after applying the powder foundation to the spectral reflectance spectrum (Y1) of 420 nm to 700 nm on the bare skin. A curve of (Y2) / (Y1) was obtained.
Spectral reflection spectra (Y1), (Y2) and spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curves for each example of a natural finish person and an unnatural finish person evaluated by a professional panel As shown in FIG.
図２の結果より、同一のパウダーファンデーションを塗布しても、自然な仕上がりが得られる人と、不自然な仕上がりになる人があり、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線に大きな違いに認められた。
自然な仕上がりが得られた人は、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きが、−０．００２７と値が０に近く、化粧後の肌の白浮き感や粉っぽさが見られなかった。また、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、５５０ｎｍの突起領域IIとの差分は、０．０４と値が小さく、化粧後の肌の厚塗り感やむらづき感が見られず、自然な仕上りが得られた。
これに対し、化粧後の肌の白浮き感や粉っぽさが目立つ不自然な仕上がりになった人は、分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きが−０．００６と負に大きく、化粧後の肌の厚塗り感やむらづき感が目立つ人は、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、５５０ｎｍの突起領域IIとの差分が０．１５と値が大きい。
From the results of FIG. 2, there are people who can get a natural finish even when the same powder foundation is applied, and people who get an unnatural finish, and the curve of spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) A big difference was recognized.
A person who has obtained a natural finish has a value of -0.0027 in the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm on the basis of the point of 650 nm in the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1). Was close to 0, and there was no whitening or powderiness on the skin after makeup. In addition, the difference from the 550 nm protrusion region II with respect to the 650 nm point is as small as 0.04, and there is no feeling of thick coating or unevenness of the skin after makeup, and a natural finish is obtained. It was.
In contrast, a person who has an unnatural finish with noticeable whitening and powderiness after makeup uses a point of 650 nm in the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) curve as a reference. If the inclination of the protrusion region I of 450 nm to 470 nm is negative as negative as −0.006 and the thick feeling and unevenness of the skin after makeup is conspicuous, the protrusion region II of 550 nm is based on the point of 650 nm. And the difference is as large as 0.15.
実施例２
実施例１で得られた各対象者の分光反射率の比（Ｙ２）／（Ｙ１）の曲線において、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きと、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、５５０ｎｍの突起領域IIとの差分を求めた。
得られた結果を、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きを横軸に、５５０ｎｍの突起領域IIとの差分を縦軸にしたグラフにプロットした（図３）。
専門パネルに「自然な仕上がり」と評価された人（１２名）のプロットは、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きが０に近く、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、５５０ｎｍの突起領域IIとの差分も小さい傾向が認められた。一方、専門パネルに「化粧後の肌の白浮き感や粉っぽさが目立ち、不自然な仕上がり」と評価された人（１７名）のプロットは、４５０ｎｍ〜４７０ｎｍの突起領域Ｉの傾きが負に大きく、また、専門パネルに「化粧後の肌の厚塗り感やむらづき感が目立ち、不自然な仕上がり」と評価された人のプロットは、６５０ｎｍの点を基準として、５５０ｎｍの突起領域IIとの差分も大きい傾向が認められた。
Example 2
In the curve of the spectral reflectance ratio (Y2) / (Y1) of each subject obtained in Example 1, with reference to the point of 650 nm, the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm and the point of 650 nm As a result, the difference from the projection region II of 550 nm was obtained.
The obtained results were plotted in a graph in which the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm was plotted on the horizontal axis and the difference from the projection region II of 550 nm was plotted on the vertical axis (FIG. 3).
The plot of the 12 persons who were evaluated as “natural finish” by the expert panel shows that the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm is close to 0 and the difference from the projection region II of 550 nm on the basis of the point of 650 nm A small tendency was also observed. On the other hand, the plot of the 17 persons who were evaluated on the specialized panel as “the whitening feeling and powderiness of the skin after makeup was conspicuous and unnatural finish” shows that the slope of the projection region I of 450 nm to 470 nm is The plot of a person who was negatively large and was evaluated on the professional panel as “uneven finish with a noticeable thick and uneven skin feel after makeup” is a 550 nm protrusion area based on a 650 nm point. There was also a tendency for large differences from II.
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