JP2015052195A - Woven fabric with changeable appearance and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric that does not adversely affect on the features of the woven fabric in terms of resistance and life cycle and has a changeable appearance and to provide a method for producing the woven fabric.SOLUTION: The woven fabric includes warp 2 and weft 3,4. The weft 3,4 includes first weft 3 and second weft 4. The first weft 3 and the warp 2 form a base layer of the woven fabric 1. At least one or a plurality of second weft 4 form an additional layer of the woven fabric 1. The additional layer is broken without damaging the base layer when a specified stress is applied to change an appearance of the woven fabric and an appearance of clothing made of the woven fabric.

Description

  The present invention relates to a fabric whose appearance can be changed, and a method for manufacturing the fabric. In particular, the present invention relates to fabrics used to manufacture clothing items.

  What follows is a description of the manufacture of denim fabrics. However, the present invention is not limited to this type of fabric, and the present invention can be applied to any fabric in which a plurality of weft yarns and warp yarns are interwoven to form a predetermined pattern.

  Denim has a different appearance, and when the front side of the fabric, i.e., clothing made of the fabric is worn, the visible front side has a different visual effect. For this reason, denim has been changed in various ways by finishing treatments that can be applied to fabrics, and has gained popularity in the fashion industry.

  Thus, the appearance of apparel made of fabric can be altered using various finishing techniques. In addition, for example, it is known in the related industry to coat a woven fabric with a chemical in order to make the woven fabric impervious or give various touch feelings.

  Another known finishing process is, for example, a wash process for stonewash. In this washing process, the fabric is washed in a cylinder filled with pumice. During the rotation of the washing cylinder, the fabric comes into contact with stones falling on it.

  Furthermore, when stone fabric is used when denim and especially indigo dyed fabrics are used and this indigo dyeing is only applied to the surface of the yarn, the yarn core remains undyed. However, it can be made visible by changing the amount of undyed wick.

  In the garment industry and the textile industry, the various finishing processes described above provide visual effects that make the textile fashionable.

  However, the finishing treatment reduces the resistance of the fabric and, as a result, shortens the life of the garment made with the fabric. In fact, during the treatment, the finishing treatment is applied directly on the fabric and in particular on the weft and warp yarns to be interwoven. For this reason, it is inevitable that the fabric becomes weak, and according to a known finishing treatment, the resistance is negatively affected.

  Furthermore, the visual effects and appearance that can be obtained by known finishing processes are limited, and the garments produced are similar, even if the manufacturers are different. This reduces the commercial attractiveness of the product and makes it difficult to distinguish which manufacturer the product is from.

  The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and in particular, to provide a fabric having a changeable appearance without adversely affecting the resistance and life cycle, and a method for producing the fabric. It is to be.

  Another object of the present invention is to provide a fabric that has a visually different appearance and to provide a method for manufacturing the fabric without increasing the overall manufacturing cost.

  The above and other objects are achieved by the fabric of claim 1 manufactured by the method of claim 16. Other aspects of the invention are as set out in the other claims.

  The fabric of the present invention includes a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of first and second weft yarns woven in a predetermined pattern. This pattern relates to a fabric having a front side and a back side. The weft extends above and below the warp and provides upper and lower portions corresponding to the warp. The lower part is formed by passing a weft thread along the back side of the fabric. The upper part is formed by passing a weft thread along the front side of the fabric.

  According to an aspect of the present invention, the plurality of first weft yarns and the plurality of warp yarns provide a support for the plurality of second weft yarns. More specifically, the first weft yarn and the plurality of warp yarns form the base layer of the fabric. At least one or more second wefts form an additional layer of fabric. This additional layer of yarn does not contribute to the mechanical properties of the fabric. Rather, this additional layer is a “sacrificial” layer that is partially removed from the fabric.

  As will be described in more detail later, the at least one or more second weft yarns have different features relative to the first weft yarn and / or to the warp yarn. That is, the additional layer formed by the second weft behaves differently with respect to the first weft and / or warp when the fabric is stressed.

  The fabric of the present invention is such that at least a portion of the second weft yarn is destroyed and / or removed from the fabric under an external stress applied to at least one region of the fabric, while the first weft yarn is Withstand the same external stress.

  This expression of “external stress” is used herein to indicate that the fabric is stressed. That is, stress is an action, which acts on the fabric either manually or automatically. For example, this action may be ablation with a suitable tool such as a tool, pumice, mechanical stress such as wear, chemical stress using a detergent, solution or bleach, or flame burning or laser. The combustion of the second weft yarn is included. As a result of the different behavior exhibited by the second weft against the first weft and the warp, different characteristics, in particular the breaking force, also due to the yarn count or tension, the response to the same stress is different and the second weft from the fabric is At least partially removed.

  More specifically, according to the present invention, the stress applied to break the second weft thread cannot break (burn, damage or dissolve) the first weft thread. In other words, the first weft withstands external stresses that cause the second weft to break. That is, it should also be noted that according to one aspect of the present invention, the warp can withstand the stress of breaking the second weft without being discarded. According to another aspect of the invention, similar stresses or other types of stresses, such as wear, can cause damage (for example, by punching) the fabric on which the second weft is based on the warp and the first weft. For application, it is applied to the area where the second weft yarn has already been removed.

  As described above, stress is applied to the fabric side. The fabric side destroys and removes at least a portion of the upper portion of the second weft on the visual side of the fabric, corresponding to the side of the wear or clothing made using the fabric of the present invention. In order to make it easier to remove the second weft from the visual side of the fabric, the upper part of the second weft is relatively long and the lower part of the second weft is as short as possible. The second weft is threaded over at least one, more preferably at least 3, more preferably 4, 5 or more warps, most preferably 7 or more warps. By doing so, it is beneficial to be woven to form on locations along the front side of the fabric.

  Depending on the number of warp threads passed through, the length of the upper part formed by the second weft thread may be made too short because the stress applied to the fabric may make it more difficult to break the second weft thread. You have to focus on what you can't do.

  In other words, if the length of the upper part formed by the second weft is too short, it is possible to destroy only the second weft without affecting the first and / or warp. It seems difficult to stress.

  According to a preferred form of the invention, the maximum length of the upper part of the second weft is up to 20 warp yarns, preferably by passing 13 to 15 warp yarns, There is a need for a maximum length to form an upper portion along. The preferred range for the upper part is the threading of 4 to 12 warps in the fabric.

  The above described minimum and maximum lengths of the upper part formed by the second weft thread make it possible to effectively break the desired part of the second weft thread, while at the same time the upper part is too long, and It has been found by the Applicant that making does not negatively affect the aesthetic appearance of the fabric, such that it is too loose (ie too long).

  Advantageously, the presence of at least one or more second weft yarns can change the visual appearance of the outside of the fabric. In fact, compared to the first weft, the second weft is easily broken so that at least a part can be removed from at least a part of the outside of the fabric (the front side of the garment to be worn). .

  In fact, the additional layer formed by the second weft can be easily removed from at least part of the surface of the fabric so that the base layer formed by the first weft and the warp can be seen. In other words, the second weft covers the base layer made from the first weft and the warp while forming an additional and breakable layer in this way. By applying a suitable external force to the fabric for a suitable time, it causes the additional layer made by the second weft to break, while the first weft and the warp can withstand the same stress without breaking. This makes it possible to remove the second weft from the fabric side, preferably from the front side of the fabric corresponding to the visible side outside the garment made of fabric.

  By stressing the fabric so that only the second weft can be broken, it has a negative effect on the warp that forms the base layer of the first weft and the fabric without being weakened by the external force applied to the fabric. Without the advantage of being able to provide different visual effects on the front side of the fabric.

  A preferred fabric is a denim fabric. The color of the fabric is not limited.

According to one aspect of the present invention, the stress applied is wear or rubbing. In this embodiment, the breaking force of the second weft is lower than the breaking force of the first weft and lower than the breaking force of the warp.
Preferably, the breaking force of the second weft is 1/3 to 1/7, preferably 1/3 to 1/7, of the tensile strength of the first weft. In other words, the ratio of the breaking force of the first weft yarn to the breaking force of the second yarn is in the range of 2: 1 to 7: 1, preferably 3: 1 to 5: 1. In any case, the breaking force of the second weft should be sufficient to weave the yarn without cutting the yarn during processing.

  Destructive force is measured in units of N (Newton) or cN (centinewton) using, for example, Uster (USTER®) Tensor JET 4 or Uster (USTER®) HVI test equipment. . The breaking force or B-force is measured as the maximum tension measured while giving a constant rate of elongation using the “force vs. length” graph until the yarn breaks. Further details of the measuring instrument and the method of manipulating the required scale are described in the usage report of USTER® Laboratory Systems, July 2010, 3rd edition “Fiber of Worcester Technology and A description of all quality parameters measured by the yarn machine "(by G. Peters, S. Meyer) can be read. In this document, in order to test the breaking force, the standard of ASTM D-1445 is referred to, but the ratio of the breaking force value to the first yarn and the second yarn is necessary, and other tests are performed. Methods and parameters can also be used.

  By producing a second weft having a lower breaking force with respect to the first weft, the desired second weft can be broken without affecting the base layer of the woven fabric composed of the first weft and the warp, Advantageously, different visual effects are readily provided while utilizing the amount of stress applied to the fabric. These advantages are particularly remarkable when the difference in breaking force between the second weft and the first weft is within the above range.

  Furthermore, according to the other form of this invention, a 2nd weft may be thinner than a 1st weft. The count of the second weft is 5 to 8 times different from the count of the first weft. In other words, the count of the second weft is 5 to 8 times lower than that of the first weft.

  The count of the second weft varies depending on the material of the yarn. For example, when cotton is used, a count of up to 30 Ne can be used, and when Kapok is used, a count of 10 Ne can be used.

  The present invention also relates to a method for producing the fabric of the present invention, as outlined above. This method includes a step of weaving warp and weft, and the weft includes a plurality of first wefts and a plurality of second wefts to form a fabric having a front surface and a back surface.

  The plurality of warp yarns and the plurality of first weft yarns form a base layer of the fabric, and at least one second weft yarn forms an additional layer on the front side of the fabric.

  The method of the present invention is a step of applying an external stress to at least one region of the woven fabric and breaking at least a part of the second weft yarn, wherein the second weft yarn is more resistant to stress than the first weft yarn. Low, and as a result, the first weft yarn is characterized in that it comprises a step that allows it to withstand the same external stresses applied to the fabric that breaks at least part of the second weft yarn.

  The external force is preferably applied by a surface treatment that does not affect the foundation layer. In particular, the first weft and warp are used to form a base layer of fibers, and if the fabric is not finished, it is used to form a base layer that can retain the characteristics of the yarn in the fabric.

  In other words, the advantages of the method according to the invention and of the fabrics obtained by this method are that the finishing treatment is applied to an additional and breakable layer made by the second weft yarn, so that the first A finishing treatment with the purpose of breaking two wefts does not negatively affect the fabric and in particular the yarns that are interwoven for the purpose of forming the base layer of the fabric.

  According to one aspect of the present invention, the stress is due to ablation, and the step of applying an external force to at least the region of the fabric performs the ablation process on at least one region on the fabric side, that is, the front side of the fabric. , By breaking and removing at least a portion of the second weft. In fact, as described above, the second weft yarn is woven to form an upper portion on the front side of the fabric and, as a result, include an additional and breakable layer.

  By the above-described process of applying an external force to at least one region of the fabric, the treatments that can be performed for the purpose of breaking the second weft of the fabric are washing treatment, addition of chemical products, rubbing with sandpaper, stone wash treatment, flame scoring. Or laser processing or a combination of two or more of the above processings.

  As described above, in any case, the stress applied on the fabric can break at least a part of the second weft, and at the same time, the first weft is the first and second weft. Therefore, for example, as described above, it is possible to withstand the same stress due to the count and breaking force.

  The invention further relates to a garment made from the fabric of the invention. According to a preferred form, the front side of the fabric, when worn on the visible side, refers to the outside visible from the outside of the wearing article. And the back side of a textile fabric points out the inside which cannot be seen when the wearing goods are worn. This makes the second weft thread extending on the front side of the fabric visible, and when stress is applied, the second weft yarn is the basis of the fabric made from the first weft yarn and the warp yarn being woven. Make the layer appear to be broken.

  By using the fabric of the present invention comprising at least one or more second wefts, clothing articles with different appearances can be obtained. Depending on customer requirements, it can have a different appearance. It is advantageous to apply force to the fabric at the end of the production of the fabric or wear.

These and other advantages and features of the present invention will become apparent upon reading the following description of non-limiting embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawings.
FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a portion of an embodiment of a fabric of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a view of the surface of a portion of the fabric of FIG. It is a longitudinal cross-sectional view of a part of the fabric of FIG. FIG. 3 is a plan view schematically illustrating an embodiment of a garment according to the present invention. It is a figure which shows six different examples of the textile fabric of this invention.

  As shown in the accompanying drawings, the fabric 1 of the present invention includes a plurality of warp yarns 2 and a plurality of weft yarns 3 and 4 that are woven together in a pattern that forms a fabric having a front side 5 and a back side 6. A plurality of first wefts 3 and a plurality of second wefts 4 are used. The plurality of first wefts 3 are different from the plurality of second wefts 4. The plurality of first weft yarns 3 in particular comprise at least two second warp yarns according to the invention, for example comprising different features in stress resistance, color and weaving patterns.

  As shown in the garment 10 made according to the present invention, the surface 5 of the fabric is the side visible from the outside when worn. In other words, the fabric surface 5 is adapted to be the outer surface of the garment 10 during manufacture.

  The weft yarns 3, 4 of the fabric 1 extend above and below the warp yarn 2 in order to produce corresponding upper portions 7, 7 ′ and lower portions 8, 8 ′ with respect to the warp yarn 2. As shown, the lower portions 8, 8 'are formed by passing the weft threads 3, 4 along the back side 6 of the fabric. Moreover, upper part 7,7 'is formed when each of the wefts 3 and 4 passes along the front side 5 of a textile fabric.

  The upper parts 7, 7 'and the lower parts 8, 8' are better shown in Fig. 3, which shows a cross section of an example of the fabric of the present invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the weft yarn of the fabric 1 comprises a plurality of first weft yarns 3. The plurality of first wefts 3 are interwoven with the warp yarns 2 to form a woven fabric base layer 1a, and at least one or more weft yarns 4 form a woven additional layer 1b ( (See the cross-sectional view of FIG. 3).

  In a preferred embodiment, the fabric according to the invention is denim, preferably twill denim (twill denim) fabric, more preferably the warp yarn is indigo-dyed, most preferably ring dyed. Therefore, the denim fabric is manufactured using warp and first weft. However, the present invention is not limited to this type of fabric.

  According to one possible embodiment, the warp 2 and the first weft 3 are woven to form a twill denim fabric facing the warp 2. In other words, according to an embodiment of the present invention, the first weft 3 and the warp 2 are in the form of a twill weave facing the warp 2, that is, a twill weave in which the warp 2 is visible from the outside. Woven to form a base layer of the fabric. This type of twill weave is well known to those skilled in the art and can form different patterns by crossing the thread passed and the warp and first weft yarns in the tissue pattern. it can.

  According to one aspect of the invention, the first weft thread 3 extends to form a lower part 8 along the back side 6 of the fabric by passing the lower side of two or more warp threads 2. . As a result, a twill weave facing the warp 2 is formed. In the embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, the first weft 3 passes below the three warps 2 and above the one warp 2.

  As described above, at least one or a plurality of yarns of the second weft 4 has resistance to stress caused by any of rubbing, washing, chemical attack, flame combustion, laser treatment, and the like. This yarn has a lower resistance than the plurality of yarns of the first weft 3. Therefore, when an external force is applied to at least a part of the woven fabric including the second yarn, at least a part of the second weft 4 is damaged.

  FIG. 2 is a view of the front side 5 of an possible embodiment of the inventive fabric 1 with part or one region 11. In part or one region 11, the second weft thread 4 is broken and then removed. In this region 11 on the front side 5 of the fabric, the first weft 3 and the warp 2 are visible.

  According to the invention, the first weft thread 3 breaks the second weft thread 4, i.e. the warp thread 2 and the first weft thread 3 cause the same behavior under the selected type of stress described above. Can withstand external stress. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the warp 2 can withstand external force. As mentioned above, the preferred type of stress is mechanical in this embodiment. The breaking strength of the second weft 4 is weaker than that of the warp 2 and the first weft 3.

  As preferred devices for producing the fabric according to the invention, at least one second weft yarn is present, and therefore eccentric looms, dobby looms and jacquard looms are suitable. Suitable yarns for the warp are known and are, for example, cotton yarns, mixed fiber yarns and others. Yarns suitable for the first weft are also known, such as cotton yarn, mixed fiber yarn, for example, an elastic core, and an elastic yarn in which fiber fibers are coated around the core. Suitable yarns for the second weft are cotton yarn, kapok yarn, mixed yarn, and synthetic yarn. The second weft yarn is preferably inelastic.

  As described above, at least one or a plurality of second weft yarns 4, that is, “second weft yarns” have a lower breaking force with respect to a plurality of first weft yarns 3 ( It is also a lower count yarn). For this reason, the second weft 4 is weaker and thinner than the plurality of first wefts. According to a preferred embodiment, the tension and count of the second weft are lower than the tension and count of the warp 2.

  In other words, according to one aspect of the present invention, the second weft thread 4 is less resistant (possibly due to a lower breaking force) to the plurality of warp threads than the first weft thread 3, and Furthermore, it is preferably thinner (due to the lower count).

  As a result, the second weft 4 forms at least one additional layer 1b. The additional layer 1b is visibly broken or damaged (eg, twisted or worn) corresponding to at least one region 11 of the fabric. This is to visualize the underlying layer of the fabric formed by the warp yarns 2 and the first weft yarns 3. Therefore, various changes in appearance and effects can be given to the fabric. This is most important for articles of wear made from fabric.

  The external force applied to the woven fabric can break the second weft thread 4, but cannot break the first weft thread 3 and / or the warp thread 2. Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a visual effect on the outside of the fabric without affecting the fabric base layer 1a, and the warp and weft yarns forming the fabric are directly subjected to a finishing treatment. In order to counter the known finishing treatments, the first weft yarn 3 and the warp yarn 2 maintain these characteristics.

Preferably, the broken second weft thread 4 is removed from the fabric 1 as in the region 11 of the embodiment shown in FIGS.
The force of the second weft 4 is equal to the minimum breaking force or 10 to 20% larger than that. This minimum breaking force can be a force that does not break the second weft thread 4 while the second weft thread 4 is being woven. However, the destructive force may be increased depending on the final effect required and the finishing process.

  As known to those skilled in the art, the breaking force depends mainly on the material of the second weft. However, the characteristics of the weaving machine used and the weaving technique are responsible for selecting the yarn to the desired characteristics. This is especially true in the case of the second weft thread 4 that needs to be easily broken under the application of an external force.

According to a preferred embodiment, the breaking force of the second weft 4 is about 1/2 to 1/5 or less of the tension of the first weft 3.
The tension of the second weft 4 is preferably in the range of 300 to 600 cN (centinewton).

  Furthermore, according to one aspect of the present invention, the count of the second weft 4 is 5 to 8 times different from the count of the first weft 3. The count of the second weft thread 4 may vary depending on the material used to make the second weft thread 4. If cotton is used to make the second weft 4, one with a count of 30 Ne or more is selected. Here, Ne is an English cotton number (English cotton count) which is a known count unit used in the textile field.

  However, since Kapok is a very weak thread when using a thicker thread in a breakable layer made by the second weft thread 4, when Kapok is used for the second weft thread 4, A count of about 10 Ne is selected.

  In general, it should be noted that the second weft 4 is thinner than the first weft 3, and more preferably thinner than the warp 2. As a result, in addition to having different mechanical features, the second weft becomes part of the base fabric, i.e. the fabric made by the warp 2 and the first weft 3, and is visible through the layer 1b.

  As used herein, the expression “external force” is used to indicate that a fabric is exposed to stresses applied to the fabric, either manually or automatically, by a tool or appropriate device. Stress is mechanical or chemical. As will be described later in connection with the method of manufacturing the fabric of the present invention, feasible and suitable treatments with the purpose of breaking the second weft of the fabric are washing treatment, use of chemical products, use of sandpaper, stone wash It can be selected from treatment, flame combustion or laser treatment, or a combination of two or more of these. Preferably, the external stress is applied to at least one region of the fabric by treating at least one region of one side of the fabric, preferably the front side 5 of the fabric, destroying at least a part of the second weft thread 4 and Remove.

  Preferably, the external stress is applied by a surface treatment that does not affect the base layer 1a, the first weft yarn 3 and the warp yarn 2 used to form the fabric base layer. Thereby, the first weft yarn 3 and the warp yarn 2 reduce changes to the yarn characteristics when the fabric is not subjected to a finishing treatment or when the changes to those features are reduced.

  A preferred stress is ablation, which can be performed in a known manner. However, ablation occurs to a lesser extent than during scratching and also during cleaning. In one embodiment, this occurs naturally with normal wear of the ablation wear. The stress can be chemically loaded, for example, at basal pH conditions or acidic pH conditions, for example by selecting fibers for the second weft yarn that are ultimately destroyed by the exposure of the fabric or wear. In the case of chemical stress, the breaking force of the yarn is not as important as when the stress is mechanical. According to the invention, the second weft thread 4 extends on the front side 5 of the fabric in order to form a breakable additional layer.

  More specifically, the fabric is provided with a second weft thread 4. The second weft thread 4 is passed by passing two, preferably four or more warp threads 2, or preferably by passing five or more warp threads 2, or by passing seven or more warp threads 2. By threading, the upper part 7 'extends along the front side 5 of the fabric (see particularly the cross-sectional view of FIG. 3).

  By this weaving method, the upper portion 7 'of the second weft 4 is formed. Its length is long enough to break easily. In other words, by forming at least 4, preferably 5 or more, or more preferably 7 or more warp yarns 2 while forming an additional layer 1b of woven fabric on the front side 5, the above mentioned outer Can be easily destroyed by mechanical stress. It should be noted that the extension with the reduced upper part 7 makes it more difficult to break the second weft thread 4. Furthermore, the appearance of the fabric between the region 11 with the intact second yarn unbroken and the region 11 is the case where the second weft yarn has been destroyed and removed, and the upper 7 'of the second weft yarn 4 Is more drastically changed when threading at least four warps.

The second weft preferably extends below the warp 2 by passing a single weft. In the textile industry, the threading path of warp yarns under a single warp and above 3, 5 or 7 is known as a 3/1, 5/1, 7/1 configuration, This configuration means three, one up, one down, five up, one down, seven up, one down, and shows the number of warp yarns 2 passed through the front side 5 and back side 6 of the fabric 1. .
In the embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, the second warp thread 4 passes over the seven warp threads 2, so that a plurality of upper parts 7 ′ are formed on the front side 5 of the fabric in a 7/1 configuration. Yes.

  According to a possible fabric 1 configuration, the second weft 4 forms an upper part 7 ′ along the front side 5 of the fabric by passing a maximum of 20 warp yarns 2, or preferably a maximum of 15 warp yarns 2. Extends to be. All the features described above can be combined by varying the length of the upper part 7 '.

  As mentioned above, different materials and types of yarns can be used to manufacture the fabric 1. More specifically, with respect to the type of warp yarn 2 and / or first weft yarn 3, these yarns can be made by a single yarn and / or a twisted yarn. Since the 2nd weft 4 needs to be weaker than the 1st weft, it is preferable that the 2nd weft 4 shall consist of one thread | yarn.

  The materials that can be used to make the yarns of the fabric according to the invention can be selected from both natural and synthetic fibers and / or mixtures thereof.

  In one embodiment, the second weft 4 is made of a material different from that of the first weft 3 and / or the warp 2. Furthermore, if the second weft thread 4 has a different color from the first weft thread 3 and / or the warp thread 2 or a gradation of a different color, the visual effect of the surface 5 of the fabric can be enhanced. Convenient.

  For example, if the fabric base layer 1a is a denim indigo-dyed fabric, the appearance is provided by the colors of the plurality of second weft threads 4 forming at least one additional layer 1b. The additional layer 1b can be visualized on the surface 5 of the fabric.

  By destroying the second weft thread 4 in at least a part of the surface of the fabric 1 (for example, the region 11 in the embodiment shown in FIG. 2), the color of the indigo dyed fabric formed by the first weft thread 3 and the warp thread 2 is changed. The second weft thread 4 can only be seen in the area where it has been destroyed and removed from the fabric 1. This removal is performed simultaneously or non-simultaneously with a process (laser treatment, combustion, chemical attack) for destroying the second weft yarn by, for example, ablation. About this 2nd weft, the thread | yarn which was not removed and was destroyed is eventually removed by washing | cleaning. For example, as a feasible embodiment, the second weft thread 4 may have a lighter color than the color of the fabric layer 1a that is the basis formed by the warp thread 2 and the first weft thread 3. In contrast to this, the second weft 4 can be darker than the color of the underlying fabric layer 1a.

  All the features described above can be combined to produce a layer 1b having an upper portion 7 'of different materials, different colors, and different lengths. The second weft is generally woven so that the base layer 1a of the fabric formed by the warp 2 and the first weft 3 extends as a whole. Thus, it can be extended only for the removed region of the fabric base layer 1a. In other words, according to a different possible embodiment, the additional layer 1b formed by the second weft 4 extends over the entire surface of the base layer 1a or is provided only on a part of the surface and the fibers Only a desired portion of the base layer 1a can be covered.

  FIG. 5 shows six examples of weaving suitable for the fabric according to the above embodiment. As is known to those skilled in the art, weaving is reproduced by graphic modification of the woven pattern in repeated minimal units. In other words, the repeating unit is one unit part of a repeating woven pattern in the length direction of the woven fabric.

  In particular, the fabric 1 shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 is configured as shown in the weave report of Example 3. Further, in the weaving report shown in FIG. 5, number 1 indicates the first weft and number 2 indicates the second weft. See the first column on the right side of each Origata report. The alternating replacement of the numbers corresponds to the replacement of the first and second wefts in a direction parallel to the direction in which the warp yarns of the fabric pattern extend.

The following two examples relate to two different fabrics made according to the weave report of Example 6 of FIG. For the two fabrics prepared, the following yarns were used: The following values are average values. All yarns are cotton yarns.
Thread 1
Ne (counter); 7/1
Resistance (total fracture RKM); 17 cN / tex
Destructive power: 1500 cN
Thread 2
Ne (counter); 8/1
Resistance (breaking total length RKM); 19 cN / tex
Destructive power: 1400 cN
Thread 3
Ne (counter); 10/1
RKM; 20 cN / tex
Resistance (total fracture length RKM); 1100 cN
Thread 4
Ne (counter); 50/1
RKM; 27 cN / tex
Resistance (total fracture length RKM); 400 cN

  Yarn 4 was used as the second weft as can be seen from the low value of the breaking force.

Textile 1
Light weight structure. Value for fabrics that are finished but not washed.
Warp yarn count; NE 10/1 Ring and slab Weft count; Ne 10/1 ring Weft count; Ne 50/1 ring warp density; 28.8 threads / cm
Weft density; 39.3 Pix / cm
Unwashed weight: 350 grams / cm

Textile 2
Weight structure. Value for fabrics that are finished but not washed.
2. Warp yarn count; NE 8/1 Ring and slab Weft count; Ne 7/1 ring 4. Weft count; Ne 50/1 ring warp yarn density; 29.8 threads / cm
Weft density: 40.5 Pix / cm
Unwashed weight: 430 grams / cm

  Fabrics 1 and 2 were prepared as denim fabrics. Fabrics 1 and 2 were made of long pants for washing and stone washing. The acquired long trousers showed the area | region which removes the 2nd weft distributed on long trousers using the comparatively big area | region of the upper part of a leg | foot. Stonewashing time has significantly reduced the time it takes to achieve the same effect on traditional long pants.

  As described above, the fabric of the present invention is used to make clothing. Before making the garment 10, external stress is applied to the fabric. However, it is also preferable to apply this stress to the clothing. The purpose is to break the second weft yarn layer 1b in the selected region 11.

  The present invention therefore also relates to a garment 10 made with the fabric 1 according to the invention, using an integral layer 1b of the second yarn 4 and a layer of the second yarn 4 that has been broken in several areas. The purpose is to protect clothing (like textiles). FIG. 4 schematically shows long trousers 19 made of the invention, for example a fabric 1 made of denim fabric. Various garments such as shirts and skirts can be made from the fabrics of the present invention.

  According to the present invention, the front side 5 of the woven fabric is a surface that becomes the outer side when clothing is worn. When the garment is worn, the back side of the fabric 1 is the inside of the garment 10 and is the side that cannot be seen from the outside. Thereby, the second weft thread 4 extending on the front side 5 of the fabric 1 is visualized. In the stressed area, the second weft thread 4 is broken to visualize the fabric base layer 1a made from the woven first weft thread 3 and warp thread 2. If the broken yarn 4 is not removed from the fabric, it is further visualized.

  According to one aspect of the invention, in the last state, the garment 10 includes at least one region on the side 5 visible from the outside where the second weft thread 4 has been broken and removed from the fabric 1. In the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, the long pants 10 include a region 11 arranged so as to correspond to the foot portion of the long pants 10. The second weft thread 4 is broken and continuously removed from the legs of the long pants 10. As a result, the base layer 1a (made by the fabric yarn 2 and the first weft yarn 3) can be seen.

  In general, the garment 10 can comprise different regions 11 where the second weft thread 4 has been broken and removed. This region 11 or some of the regions 11 are arranged at different positions on the front side (that is, the surface visible from the outside).

  Furthermore, as described above, the second weft yarn 4 can be woven on at least a part of the fabric, at least on the fabric base layer 1 a made of the first weft yarn 3 and the warp yarn 2. In the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, the second weft thread 4 is woven so as to completely cover the front side 5 of the fabric, and the second weft thread 4 is broken and removed from region 11 or some desired location of region 11. Is done.

  The method of destroying and removing the second weft thread 4 from the outside of the fabric is, for example, as described above. In the embodiment, the second weft thread 4 is a tear that occurs when wearing normal clothes and when clothes are worn. If there is a "scratch part" by, it is weak enough to cope with it. Therefore, in this embodiment, the fabric wears out much faster than when wearing long trousers made of traditional fabric, so the appearance of long trousers and other garments changes with use. This is a significant advantage of the present invention.

  The invention also relates to a method for producing the fabric 1 of the invention. Although this method has been described with reference to the exemplary embodiment, this method includes a step of weaving the warp yarn 2 and the weft yarns 3 and 4. In this method, the weft thread forms a woven fabric comprising a first weft thread 3 and at least one or more weft threads 4. In this fabric, the plurality of second weft yarns extend on the front side of the fabric and, for example, have a lower destructive force than the resistance of the rest of the fabric under the same stress. It is resistant to stress.

  Preferably, the second weft thread 4 is woven by passing three, preferably four or more warp threads 2, and more preferably by passing seven or more warp threads 2. According to one aspect of the present invention, the second weft thread 4 passes through a maximum of 20 warp threads 2, preferably through 15 warp threads 2, most preferably through 12 warp threads. Thus, it is woven to extend along the front side 5 of the fabric, forming an upper portion 7.

  The plurality of warp yarns 2 and the plurality of weft yarns 3 form a woven fabric base layer 1a, and at least one or a plurality of second weft yarns 4 form a woven fabric base layer 1a. This fabric is broken and optionally removed without damaging the remaining yarns of the fabric, as described above.

  The present invention also relates to a method for producing a garment, producing a woven fabric as described above, producing a garment from the woven fabric, and applying an external stress to at least one region of the woven fabric of the worn article, At least part of the possible second weft 4 is broken.

  External stress is applied by surface treatment. This surface treatment has or does not affect the removed amount of the base layer 1a, in particular the first weft yarn 3 and the second warp yarn 4 used to form the fabric base layer. There are also things. As such, the first weft 3 and warp 2 retain their characteristics when the fabric is not finished.

  According to one aspect of the invention, the step of applying external stress to at least one region of the fabric is performed by ablating any side of the fabric, preferably at least one region 11 on the front side of the fabric, At least a part of the second weft 4 is broken. In fact, as described above, the second weft thread 4 forms the outer surface 7 on the front side of the fabric, resulting in an additional and breakable additional layer 1b. For example, see the cross-sectional view of FIG.

  In the step of applying an external stress to at least one region of the woven fabric, the treatment that can be performed for the purpose of breaking the second weft 4 of the fiber includes washing treatment, chemical addition, sandpaper rubbing method, stone wash treatment, It is selected from a flame burning process or a laser process.

  As described above, in any case, the stress applied to the fabric 1 can break at least a part of the second weft thread 4, but at least the first weft thread 3 as described above, In particular, due to the count and tension, it is possible to withstand the same stress due to the difference in characteristics between the first weft and the second weft.

  FIG. 2 is a view of the front side 5 of an possible embodiment of the fabric 1 according to the invention with a part or region 11 in which the second weft thread 4 has already been destroyed and removed. In this region 11 on the front side 5 of the fabric, the first weft 3 and the warp 2 can be seen.

  In fact, in one form of the method of the present invention, the method further comprises the step of removing the broken second weft yarn 4 from the fabric. This removal is carried out during or after applying the external force on at least one region of the fabric 1.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Woven fabric 1a Base layer 1b Additional layer 2 Warp yarn 3 1st weft 4 2nd weft 5 Front surface 6 Back surface 7, 7 'Outer surface 8, 8' Inner surface 10 Clothing 11 area | region

Claims (21)

A woven warp (2) and a weft (3) (4), having a front surface (5) and a back surface (6), wherein the weft (3) comprises at least a plurality of first wefts (3) and at least One or a plurality of second weft threads (4),
The plurality of first warp yarns (2) and the plurality of first weft yarns (3) of the fabric form the base layer (1a) of the fabric, and the at least one or more second weft yarns (4). Is a fabric (1) formed by forming an additional layer (1b) in the form of the outer surface (7 ') of the fabric,
The additional layer (1b) is located on the surface (5) of the fabric,
The first weft yarn (3) and the second weft yarn (4) are different yarns, and selectively perform different actions on stress applied to the region of the fabric,
Therefore, at least part of the second weft thread (4) in the additional layer (1b) in the fabric is destroyed under stress applied to at least one region (11) of the fiber,
The fabric (1) is characterized in that at least the first weft (3) in the base layer (1a) in the region (11) is designed to withstand the stress.   The stress is a mechanical stress, and the force for breaking the second weft thread (4) is smaller than the force for breaking the first weft thread (3), and the first weft thread (3) The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric is 1/2 to 1/7 of a force that breaks the fabric.   3. The woven fabric according to claim 2, wherein the force for breaking the second weft yarn (4) is 1/3 to 1/5 of the force for breaking the first weft yarn (3).   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the count of the second weft yarn (4) is 5 to 8 times different from that of the first weft yarn (3).   The second weft yarn (4) passes over 3 or more warp yarns (2), preferably passes 5 or more warp yarns (2), more preferably passes 7 or more warp yarns. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that an upper portion (7) is formed along the surface (5) of the woven fabric.   The second weft thread (4) passes through up to 20 warp threads (2), preferably through up to 15 warp threads (2), more preferably by passing up to 12 warp threads. Fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that it forms an upper part (7) along the surface (5) of the fabric.   The first weft thread (3) forms a lower part (8) along the back side (6) of the fabric by passing under two or more warp threads (2). 6. The woven fabric according to any one of 6 above.   The second weft (4) is made of a single yarn, and the warp (2) and / or the first weft (3) is made of a single yarn and / or a twisted yarn. The woven fabric according to any one of 1 to 7.   The said 2nd weft (4) has a different color with respect to the said 1st weft (3) and / or the said warp (2), The claim 1 characterized by the above-mentioned. Textiles.   The said 2nd weft (4) has a different material with respect to the said 1st weft (3) and / or the said warp (2), It was described in any one of Claims 1-9 characterized by the above-mentioned. fabric.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the woven fabric is a denim woven fabric, preferably an indigo-dyed denim woven fabric.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the warp yarn (2) and the first weft yarn (3) are woven so as to form a twill fabric facing the warp yarn.   The front side (5) of the fabric (1) is the outside visible when the garment is worn, and the back side (6) is the inside not visible when the garment is worn. The garment (10) described in any one of -12. Comprising the step of weaving the warp (2) and the weft (3) (4),
The weft includes a plurality of first wefts (3) and at least one or more second wefts (4);
This forms a fabric having a front surface (5) and a back surface (6),
The surface (5) corresponds to a side that is visually recognized when the garment (10) made of the woven fabric is worn,
The weft yarns (3) and (4) extend above and below the warp yarn (2) and have upper portions (7) (7 ') and lower portions (8) (8') corresponding to the warp yarn (2). Offer to,
The warp yarn (2) and the first weft yarn (3) form the base layer (1a) of the fabric, and
The method for producing a fabric (1) according to any of claims 1 to 13, wherein the at least one or more second wefts (4) form an additional layer (1b) of the fabric. Because
The additional layer (1b) is provided on the surface (5) of the fabric,
The first weft (3) and the second weft (4) are different,
The upper portion (7 ') of the second weft yarn in the additional layer (1b) has an amount of warp yarn (2) in the range of 3-20, preferably 4-15, more preferably 4-12. A process for producing a woven fabric (1) characterized in that it extends along the surface (5) of the woven fabric by passing over.   The first weft yarn (3) and the second weft yarn (4) are a method for selectively exhibiting different behavior with respect to the same stress applied to the region of the fabric, wherein at least one of the fabrics Under the stress applied to the region, at least part of the second weft thread (4) in the additional layer (1b) of the fabric is destroyed, and the first weft thread (3) becomes resistant to the stress. 15. The method of claim 14, wherein:   A method for producing a garment comprising the steps of producing a woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and producing a garment (10) from the woven fabric, wherein the woven fabric forms a base layer (1a). (2) and a plurality of first weft threads (3) and at least one or more second weft threads (4) woven into the fabric to provide an additional layer (1b) on the surface of the fabric. And manufacturing the garment, wherein the surface (5) of the fabric is outside the garment (10).   Stress is applied to at least one region (11) on the front side of the woven fabric of the worn article to destroy at least a portion of the breakable second weft yarn (4), thereby in the region (11). The method according to claim 16, further comprising the step of making at least a first weft of the base layer (1a) withstand the stress.   The step of applying external stress to at least one region of the fiber is selected from a laundering process where chemicals are added, an ablation process, abrasion using sandpaper, a stone wash process, combustion by flame, or abrasion by laser process. The method according to claim 17, wherein the processing is a combination of two or more of the processing.   The method according to claim 16 or 18, wherein the step of applying an external stress to the fabric is performed by ablation by wearing the garment.   20. The method of claim 16 further comprising the step of removing the second weft yarn that is broken during the step of applying the external stress on at least one region (11) of the fabric. The method according to any one.   Clothing obtained by the method according to any one of claims 16 to 20.

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