JP2006037266A - Woven fabric having surface appearance with new feeling, and wrinkle finished woven fabric - Google Patents

Woven fabric having surface appearance with new feeling, and wrinkle finished woven fabric Download PDF

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JP2006037266A
JP2006037266A JP2004217018A JP2004217018A JP2006037266A JP 2006037266 A JP2006037266 A JP 2006037266A JP 2004217018 A JP2004217018 A JP 2004217018A JP 2004217018 A JP2004217018 A JP 2004217018A JP 2006037266 A JP2006037266 A JP 2006037266A
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woven fabric
warp
weft
surface appearance
cover factor
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JP2004217018A
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Japanese (ja)
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Fumio Shibata
二三男 柴田
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Ni Teijin Shoji Co Ltd
エヌアイ帝人商事株式会社
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric having surface appearance with new feeling wherein streaks in a slightly deep color are observed in the surface in a deep color; and to provide a wrinkle-finished woven fabric having visually emphasized three-dimensional effects of the wrinkles by subjecting the woven fabric to wrinkle finish. <P>SOLUTION: The woven fabric having the surface appearance is constituted of warp yarns and weft yarns mutually having difference in deepness of color. One of the warp and weft yarns has ≤50 L-value in the deep color side and 1,500-3,000 cover factor CF1, and the other has ≥70 L-value in the light color side and 200-800 cover factor CF2. If necessary, the woven fabric is subjected to the wrinkle finish. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric having a new sensation of surface appearance in which warps and / or wefts are colored so that warps and wefts have a difference in density, and low-dark streaks appear randomly in a dark surface. And a wrinkled fabric in which the steric effect of the wrinkles is visually emphasized by subjecting the fabric to wrinkles.

  Conventionally, textiles having functionality such as water repellency and antistatic properties have been used in fields such as sports clothing and fashion clothing (see, for example, Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2). In these woven fabrics, warps and wefts are usually dyed in the same color. However, in recent years, consumer preferences have been diversified, and there has been a demand for a fabric having a new surface appearance as well as functionality.

  On the other hand, examples of the fabric having a new surface appearance include chambray fabrics in which warps and wefts are dyed in different colors (for example, see Patent Document 3), and wrinkled fabrics (for example, see Patent Document 4). Are known.

  However, with chambray fabrics, the entire surface of the fabric was iridescent or pastel, and it was not yet satisfactory in terms of a new sense. Moreover, in the woven fabric which wrinkled, what emphasized the three-dimensional effect of wrinkles visually was not proposed so much, and the proposal was desired.

Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 4-5786 Japanese Patent No. 3133227 JP-A-6-294040 JP-A-10-96139

  The present invention has been made in view of the above-described background, and the purpose thereof is that warps and / or wefts are colored so that warps and wefts have a difference in density, and a low dark color is formed on a dark surface. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven fabric having a new-like surface appearance in which the streaks appear randomly, and a wrinkled woven fabric in which the steric effect of wrinkles is visually emphasized by wrinkling the woven fabric.

  As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have made a difference in density between the warp and the weft in the woven fabric, and the cover factor on the dark side of the warp and weft is the cover factor on the light side. By making it larger than the above, it is possible to obtain a fabric having a new surface appearance in which low dark stripes appear randomly in a dark surface, and wrinkle processing is performed on such a fabric to produce a solid wrinkle. The present invention has been conceived by finding that the effect is visually emphasized and further intensively studying it.

  Thus, according to the present invention, “a woven fabric composed of warp and weft having a difference in density, and of the warp and weft, the L value is 50 or less and the cover factor CF1 is 1500 to 3000 on the dark side. A woven fabric having a new sense of surface appearance, characterized in that the L value is 70 or more and the cover factor CF2 is in the range of 200 to 800 on the light color side.

However, the cover factor CF is represented by the following formula.
CF = (DW / 1.1) 1/2 × MW
[When CF is the cover factor of the warp, DW is the total fineness (dtex) of the yarn arranged in the warp, MW is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), and CF is the cover factor of the weft DW is the total fineness (dtex) of the yarns arranged in the weft, and MW is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm). ]

In that case, it is preferable that CF1 and CF2 satisfy the following formula.
0.6 ≦ CF1 / (CF1 + CF2) ≦ 0.9

  In the woven fabric of the present invention, either warp or weft may be on the dark side, but the warp is preferably on the dark side. Further, the woven structure is preferably any one selected from plain weave, twill, and these changed structures.

  Such a woven fabric may be used as it is as a woven fabric having a new sensation of surface appearance, or may be further processed into a product as a creased processed fabric after wrinkling. Further, it is preferable that these woven fabrics are subjected to a water repellent treatment so that the water repellency is 4th or higher. Moreover, it is preferable that waterproofness is 400 mm or more.

  According to the present invention, the warp and / or the weft are colored so that the warp and the weft have a difference in light and shade, and a new sensation of the surface appearance in which low dark stripes appear randomly in the dark surface. A wrinkled woven fabric in which the steric effect of wrinkles is visually emphasized is obtained by wrinkling the woven fabric and the high-density fabric.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
First, in the woven fabric of the present invention, the warp and / or the weft are colored so that the warp and the weft have a difference in density, and the L value on the dark side of the warp and the weft is 50 or less (preferably 40 or less). , More preferably 30 or less), while the L value on the light color side is 70 or more (preferably 80 or more).

  Here, the L value is a numerical value measured by the following. After disassembling the woven fabric into warps and wefts, for each, for example, using a Macbeth color-Eye model M-2020 (manufactured by Colmogen, USA), the light source D65, and the L value in a 10 degree field of view. taking measurement.

  When the dark color side is larger than 50 or the light color side is smaller than 70 as the L value, a new sensation surface in which low dark streaks appear randomly in the dark surface which is one of the main objects of the present invention. The appearance may not be obtained, which is not preferable.

  Next, in the woven fabric of the present invention, when the cover factor on the dark side of the warp and weft is CF1, and the cover factor on the light side is CF2, CF1 is in the range of 1500 to 3000, and CF2 is 200 to 800. Must be in the range.

Here, the cover factor CF referred to in the present invention is represented by the following formula.
CF = (DW / 1.1) 1/2 × MW

  However, when CF is the warp cover factor, DW is the total fineness (dtex) of the yarns arranged in the warp, MW is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), and CF is the weft cover factor. In some cases, DW is the total fineness (dtex) of the yarn arranged in the weft, and MW is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm). For the warp and the weft, the cover factor CF is measured, and the dark color side cover factor is CF1 and the light color side cover factor is CF2. When two or more kinds of yarns are arranged on the warp and / or the weft, the total fineness of the yarns is an average of the plurality of yarns.

  If the CF1 is smaller than 1500, the ratio of the dark colored yarn on the surface of the woven fabric is reduced, so that the surface of the woven fabric becomes light. Therefore, one of the main objects of the present invention is the low dark color in the dark surface. This is not preferable because a new-looking surface appearance in which the streaks appear to be random is not obtained. On the contrary, if CF1 is larger than 3000, a dark surface is obtained, but low dark stripes are difficult to see, and a plain cheap appearance is not preferable.

  If the CF2 is smaller than 200, low dark stripes are difficult to see, which is not preferable because of a plain cheap appearance. On the other hand, if the CF2 is greater than 800, the surface of the woven fabric is light and unfavorable because the new appearance of the surface cannot be obtained.

Here, it is preferable that the CF1 and CF2 satisfy the following formula.
0.6 ≦ CF1 / (CF1 + CF2) ≦ 0.9

  If CF1 / (CF1 + CF2) is greater than 0.9, a dark surface can be obtained, but low dark stripes are difficult to see, and a plain and cheap appearance may occur. On the contrary, if the CF1 / (CF1 + CF2) is smaller than 0.6, the ratio of the dark colored yarn on the surface of the woven fabric is reduced, so that the surface of the woven fabric becomes light, and low dark stripes are randomly formed in the dark surface. There is a risk that a new-looking surface appearance that can be seen will not be obtained.

  In the woven fabric of the present invention, the fiber type of the yarn arranged in the warp and the weft is not particularly limited as long as the warp and the weft have a difference in density, and known synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, natural fibers, etc. are appropriately used. Can be selected.

  For example, (1) A normal polyethylene terephthalate yarn is placed on one of the warp and weft, a normal polypropylene yarn is placed on the other, and the fabric is dyed with a disperse dye (2) A normal nylon yarn is placed on one of the warp and weft, and a normal polypropylene yarn is placed on the other. Nylon yarn dyed by dyeing with dye or disperse dye (3) Cationic dye-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate yarn is placed on either warp or weft, and the other is normal Polypropylene yarns were placed and dyed with cationic dyes or disperse dyes on the fabrics to dye cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate yarns. (4) Arrange normal nylon yarn on one of warp and weft, arrange normal polyethylene terephthalate yarn on the other, and dye the fabric using acid dye or metallized dye (5) Cationic dye-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate yarn is placed on one of warp and weft, and ordinary polyethylene terephthalate yarn is placed on the other. (6) A normal polyethylene terephthalate yarn is arranged on one of warp and weft, and the other is dyed with a cationic dye. An example is one in which polyethylene terephthalate yarn is dyed by disposing a normal cotton yarn on the fabric and dyeing the fabric with a disperse dye. It is.

  In the case of adding water repellency to the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable from the viewpoint of water repellency that synthetic fibers are used for both the warp and the weft among the above combinations.

  The yarn arranged on the warp and / or the weft may be yarn-dyed, or may be a yarn made of a colored resin mixed with a pigment. Furthermore, after weaving using these colored yarns, dyeing may be performed.

  The total fineness, the number of filaments, and the single yarn fineness of the yarns arranged in the warp and / or weft are not particularly limited, but in terms of texture, the total fineness is 30 to 300 dtex, the number of filaments is 10 to 300, and the single yarn fineness. A range of 0.1 to 5 dtex is appropriate. The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is not particularly limited, and is appropriately selected from round, triangular, flat, hollow, and the like. Also, the form of the yarn is not particularly limited, and may be a long fiber (multifilament yarn) or a spun yarn composed of short fibers. Further, a composite yarn such as a twisted yarn, an air-mixed yarn, and a composite false twist crimped yarn may be used by using two or more types of multifilament yarns.

  In the woven fabric of the present invention, either warp or weft may be on the dark side, but the warp is preferably on the dark side. In addition, as a woven fabric structure, a relatively simple woven structure is more likely to give a new sensation of surface appearance in which low dark stripes appear randomly in a dark surface, such as plain weave, twill, and changes in these. It is preferably any one selected from a tissue (for example, a transmat structure). In addition, the textile fabric which has these woven structures can be woven by a normal weaving method.

  On the surface of the woven fabric of the present invention, stripes of low dark color (slightly lighter than the basic dark color) appear randomly in either direction of the dark colored warp or weft based on the dark color. . For example, if the warp is on the dark side, low dark stripes in the warp direction appear randomly in the dark surface. Such a surface appearance is a new sensation that has not been seen in conventional fabrics.

  Next, the wrinkled fabric of the present invention is obtained by subjecting the above-mentioned fabric to normal wrinkling. Such wrinkle processing is not particularly limited and may be ordinary processing. For example, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 10-96139, a method of embossing a fabric, a method of steam setting in a state where the fabric is simply bundled and imparting a vertical wrinkle, and pushing the fabric into a dyeing machine to cause buckling The method of giving may be sufficient, and it is good also as a product which leaves the wrinkle provided at that time, giving a dyeing process using a liquid dyeing machine in the state where the cloth was simply bundled.

  By wrinkling the woven fabric, the woven fabric structure at the location where the wrinkle is applied collapses, and the light-colored other yarn appears from between the yarns of either the dark colored warp or weft. , Wrinkle stereo effect is visually enhanced.

  The woven fabric and / or the creased fabric may be subjected to normal water-repellent processing. In particular, when water-repellent processing is applied to a wrinkled fabric, it is preferable to apply the wrinkle processing after the wrinkle processing before the wrinkle processing without impairing the wrinkle processing effect. As such a water repellent process, for example, a commercially available fluorine-based water repellent (for example, manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.) as a water repellent, as described in Japanese Patent No. 3133227 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-5786. Asahi Guard LS-317) is used, and if necessary, a melamine resin and a catalyst are mixed to form a processing agent having a water repellent concentration of about 3 to 15% by weight, and a pickup rate of about 50 to 90%. This is a method of treating the surface of a fabric using a processing agent. Examples of the method of treating the surface of the woven fabric with the processing agent include a pad method and a spray method. Of these, the pad method is most preferable in that the processing agent penetrates into the woven fabric. The water repellency is preferably quaternary or higher.

  In addition, the said pick-up rate is the weight ratio (%) with respect to the textile fabric (before processing agent provision) weight of a processing agent.

  In addition, the waterproof property of the woven fabric is preferably 400 mm or more (more preferably, 500 to 2000 mm), and the waterproof property can be obtained by appropriately selecting the cover factors of warps and wefts within the above range. .

  As long as the main purpose of the present invention is not impaired, the above-mentioned woven fabric and / or wrinkle-processed woven fabric are further subjected to ordinary alkali weight loss processing, dye finish processing, calendar processing, resin coating, film lamination, antibacterial deodorization processing, A known process such as negative ion generation process may be appropriately added.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited at all by these. In addition, each physical property in an Example is measured with the following method.
Next, although the Example and comparative example of this invention are explained in full detail, this invention is not limited by these.

(1) Hot water shrinkage rate Using a measuring machine with a circumference of 1.125m, a sample is sampled 10 times to make a skein, and the skein is hung on a hanging nail of the scale plate, and then the total weight of the skein is 1 Suspend the load of / 30 and read the length L1 of the skein before processing. Then remove the load, put the skein in a cotton bag and immerse in boiling water for 30 minutes. Then, the skein is taken out, dried with filter paper and air-dried for 24 hours. Then, it is again hung on the hanging nail of the scale plate, the same load as above is hung on the lower part, and the length L2 of the skein after processing is read. The hot water shrinkage (BWS) was calculated by the following formula. The average value was calculated with n number of 5.
BWS (%) = (L1-L2) / L1 × 100
(2) L value After disassembling the woven fabric into warp and weft, using a Macbeth color-Eye model M-2020 (manufactured by Colmogen, USA), a light source D65 and a 10 degree field of view The L value of the warp and the weft was measured. The average value was calculated with n = 3.
(3) Water repellency Water repellency (grade) was measured according to 5.2 water repellency (spray method) of JIS L 1092. The average value was calculated by n = 3. The water repellency is best at grade 5.
(4) Waterproofness Measured by the low water pressure method of JIS L 1092-A. The average value was calculated by n = 3.
(5) Surface appearance Sensory evaluation was performed in the following three stages by three testers. Excellent: A new surface appearance with low dark stripes appearing randomly in a dark surface. Good: Low dark stripes are visible on the dark surface. Impossible: A low surface color streak is not visible in the dark surface, and the surface is plain.
(6) Three-dimensional effect of wrinkles Sensory evaluation was performed in three stages of excellent, good, and impossible by three testers.

[Example 1]
A copolyester of terephthalic acid / isophthalic acid and ethylene glycol having a molar ratio of 93/7 was spun and stretched by a conventional method, and a copolyester multifilament yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 20% 33 dtex / 12fil (Teijin Fiber ) And ordinary polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn 66dtex / 144fil (made by Toray Industries, Inc.) having a shrinkage rate of 3%, and using a known interlaced air nozzle, a pneumatic pressure of 300 kPa (3 kgf) / Cm 2 ) and a yarn blending speed of 600 m / min, an interlaced air blended yarn (105 dtex / 156 fil) was obtained and used as a warp.

  On the other hand, normal polypropylene multifilament yarn 84 dtex / 24 fil (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) was used as the weft.

  Next, using the warp and weft, raw machine warp density: 188 yarns / 2.54 cm (warp cover factor WpCF: 1751), raw machine weft density: 60 yarns / 2.54 cm (weft cover factor WfCF: 550), WpCF / A fabric having a warp mat structure (deformation of plain structure) of 0.76 in (WpCF + WfCF) and the fabric structure showing a complete structure in FIG. 1 was obtained.

  The fabric is refined and dried by a conventional method, set at 130 ° C., and using a disperse dye Sumikalon Black S-BL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 8% owf, a liquid dyeing machine (Hisaka Co., Ltd.) Dyeing at a temperature of 125 ° C. for 60 minutes. In the high-density fabric after dyeing, warp density: 200 / 2.54 cm (warp cover factor WpCF: 1863), weft density: 70 / 2.54 cm (weft cover factor WfCF: 583), WpCF / (WpCF + WfCF) It was 0.76. By the dyeing process, the disperse dye was dyed only on the warp, and the polypropylene multifilament yarn of the weft was hardly colored. That is, the warp is on the dark side, the weft is on the light side, WpCF corresponds to CF1, and WfCF corresponds to CF2. Further, wrinkles were imparted to the fabric by the dyeing process.

  The woven fabric was subjected to a dry setter (manufactured by Hirano Tech Seed), and subjected to heat treatment at 150 ° C. for 1 minute to remove wrinkles.

  Next, the fabric was padded with the following treatment liquid (processing agent), squeezed at a pickup rate of 70%, dried at 110 ° C. for 3 minutes and then heat-treated at 150 ° C. for 45 seconds to obtain a water-repellent fabric. (Normal finish).

<Processing agent composition>
・ Fluorine-based water repellent 10.0wt%
(Asahi Guard LS-317, manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.)
・ Melamine resin 0.3wt%
(Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumtex Resin M-3)
・ Catalyst 0.3wt%
(Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Smithex Accelerator ACX)
・ Water 89.4wt%

  In the obtained woven fabric, warp density: 203 pieces / 2.54 cm (warp cover factor WpCF: 1891), raw machine weft density: 75 pieces / 2.54 cm (weft cover factor WfCF: 625), WpCF / (WpCF + WfCF) 0 .75. Furthermore, the water repellency of the woven fabric was grade 5, waterproof property was 550 mm, and a new surface appearance (excellent) in which low dark stripes in the warp direction were randomly visible in the dark surface. When the woven fabric was disassembled and measured, the L value of the warp was 19.6 (dark color) and the L value of the weft was 95.4 (light color).

[Example 2]
In Example 1, after performing refining and drying, dyeing is performed without setting, drying and setting is performed without applying tension as much as possible, and setting is performed while leaving wrinkles imparted by the dyeing process. (Leave wrinkle finish).

  In the obtained woven fabric, warp density: 221 pieces / 2.54 cm (warp cover factor WpCF: 2059), weft density: 78 pieces / 2.54 cm (weft cover factor WfCF: 650), WpCF / (WpCF + WfCF) 0. 76. When the woven fabric was disassembled and measured, the L value of the warp was 19.6 (dark color), and the L value of the weft was 95.4 (light color). Moreover, the water repellency of the woven fabric was grade 5, waterproofing was 450 mm, and wrinkle steric effect (excellent).

[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, dyeing and water repellent treatment were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 0.33% of Sumicaron Orange SE-RPD (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) was used instead of Sumicaron Black S-BL. Went.

  In the obtained woven fabric, a low-concentration streak did not appear at random and was an ordinary orange dyeing (impossible). When the woven fabric was disassembled and measured, the L value of the warp was 72.5, and the L value of the weft was 98.3.

[Comparative Example 2]
In Example 2, it was carried out similarly to Example 2 except using 0.33% of Sumikaron Orange SE-RPD (made by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) instead of Sumikaron Black S-BL.

  In the obtained woven fabric, although there were wrinkles, the three-dimensional effect of wrinkles was hardly seen (impossible). When the woven fabric was disassembled and measured, the L value of the warp was 72.5, and the L value of the weft was 98.3.

  According to the present invention, a woven fabric having a new sensation of surface appearance in which low dark stripes appear randomly in a dark surface, and wrinkle processing on the woven fabric, the steric effect of wrinkles is visually observed. An enhanced wrinkled fabric is provided. Such a fabric can be suitably used as a sports application or a raincoat material, and its industrial value is extremely large.

It is an example (warp mat structure) of the textile structure figure which can be employ | adopted as a textile structure in the textile fabric of this invention.

Claims (7)

  1. A woven fabric composed of warp and weft having a difference in density, and of the warp and weft, the L value is 50 or less and the cover factor CF1 is in the range of 1500 to 3000 on the dark side, while the light color A woven fabric having a new sensation of surface appearance, characterized in that the L value on the side is 70 or more and the cover factor CF2 is in the range of 200 to 800.
    However, the cover factor CF is represented by the following formula.
    CF = (DW / 1.1) 1/2 × MW
    [When CF is the cover factor of the warp, DW is the total fineness (dtex) of the yarn arranged in the warp, MW is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), and CF is the cover factor of the weft DW is the total fineness (dtex) of the yarns arranged in the weft, and MW is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm). ]
  2. The woven fabric having a new sense of surface appearance according to claim 1, wherein the CF1 and CF2 satisfy the following formula.
    0.6 ≦ CF1 / (CF1 + CF2) ≦ 0.9
  3.   The woven fabric having a new-sense surface appearance according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp is on the dark side.
  4.   The woven fabric having a new-sense surface appearance according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the woven fabric structure is any one selected from a plain weave, a twill weave, and a changed structure thereof.
  5.   A wrinkle-processed woven fabric obtained by wrinkling a woven fabric having a new-sense surface appearance according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
  6.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which has been subjected to water repellent treatment and has a water repellency of 4th or higher.
  7.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the waterproof property is 400 mm or more.
JP2004217018A 2004-07-26 2004-07-26 Woven fabric having surface appearance with new feeling, and wrinkle finished woven fabric Pending JP2006037266A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2012012739A (en) * 2010-07-02 2012-01-19 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven fabric for side cloth and fiber product

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2012012739A (en) * 2010-07-02 2012-01-19 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven fabric for side cloth and fiber product

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