HK1236587B - Woven fabric that performs like a knitted fabric and method of making thereof - Google Patents

Description

Woven fabric with knitted-like properties and method for producing the same

This invention patent application is a divisional application of the invention patent application with international application number PCT/EP2011/000902, international application date February 24, 2011, application number 201180010682.9 entering the Chinese national phase, and titled "Woven fabrics with the appearance and performance of knitted fabrics and methods for manufacturing the same".

Technical Field

Products and methods consistent with the present invention relate to textiles.

Background Art

Generally speaking, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics differ greatly in quality. Woven fabrics such as denim gabardine, kaftan, and others generally hold their shape well, but are stiffer than knitted fabrics and therefore don't flatter the body as well. Knitted fabrics are soft, stretch both vertically and horizontally, and drape well against the body, even when non-elastic yarns are used.

Denim, an indigo-dyed woven fabric, has gained popularity in the fashion industry, at least in part due to the ring-dyeing process used in making indigo yarn. Typically, the indigo dye is located close to the surface of the yarn, leaving the core of the yarn undyed. Because the dye is located on the surface of the yarn, denim fabric fades differently than fabrics made from non-ring-dyed yarn. In addition, different finishing techniques can be applied to denim to take advantage of these ring-dyed yarns. For example, denim can be manually scraped, sandblasted, stonewashed, or treated in other ways that allow the amount of undyed core of the indigo yarn to be changed so that the latter becomes visible. The effects produced by these treatments have made denim a popular and fashionable fabric in the clothing and textile industries.

Due to the weaving properties of denim, it is rarely used to make tops, such as shirts, jackets, and sweatshirts. On the other hand, knitted indigo fabrics have failed to become popular due to the necessary high manufacturing costs. For example, in order to make knitted fabrics, the yarn used must be wound on a bobbin. This is an expensive, additional step required to make knitted indigo fabrics. Some people have tried dyeing the fabric after knitting, but this also brings problems. Due to the elastic properties of the fabric, the dyeing after knitting is difficult to control. In addition, if people wear a fabric sweatshirt, the indigo dye on both sides of the fabric can get dirty. Others have tried dyeing the knitted yarn with indigo dye when it is on the bobbin, but this has also drawn unsatisfactory results.

Summary of the Invention

The object of the present invention is to solve the above problems and to provide a woven fabric having the look and feel and performance of a knitted fabric.Preferably, the woven fabric is a denim-like fabric.

The present invention solves the above-mentioned objects. One exemplary embodiment of the present invention is to provide a product that looks and performs like a knitted fabric, but is manufactured by weaving. Another exemplary embodiment of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing such a product.

According to an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, a product is provided, which includes a fabric having a front side and a back side, and includes a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns woven together according to a pattern, wherein the weft yarns include a first hard yarn and a second elastic yarn arranged in a predetermined arrangement, the predetermined arrangement including at least one hard yarn alternating with at least one elastic yarn, the elastic yarn having a shrinkage greater than that of the hard yarn, wherein the hard yarn forms alternating lower and upper portions relative to the warp yarns, the lower portions being formed and defining loop portions when the hard yarn passes along the back side of the warp yarns, and the upper portions being formed and defining connecting portions when the hard yarn passes along the front side of the warp yarns, wherein for each hard yarn, the average number of warp yarns passed by the loop portions is at least 6, and wherein the elastic yarn forms the alternating lower and upper portions relative to the warp yarns in a weave tighter than that of the hard yarns.

It should be noted that although the present invention uses the terms "elastic" and "stiff" to describe yarns, for the purposes of the present invention, "elastic" means that the yarn has a greater shrinkage than a "stiff" yarn. Both "elastic" weft yarns and "stiff" weft yarns are elastic.

In other words, the present invention relates to a woven fabric having warp yarns and weft yarns, the weft yarns extending on selected warp yarns to provide upper portions, extending on a rear side of the fabric between two adjacent upper portions to define lower portions of the weft yarns, characterized in that the weft yarns include a plurality of first weft yarns having a first shrinkage rate and a plurality of second weft yarns having a second shrinkage rate, wherein the second weft yarns have a shrinkage rate greater than that of the first weft yarns, the first weft yarns and the second weft yarns being alternately arranged to provide a fabric pattern, and further characterized in that the lower portions of the plurality of first weft yarns form loops extending to cover at least 6 warp yarns, and the lower portions of the second weft yarns extend less than the number of 6 warp yarns.

Preferably, when measured in the same manner, i.e., using the same test, the shrinkage of the elastic yarn is at least 10% greater than the elasticity of the hard yarn, and the number of warp yarns defining the lower portion of the first weft yarn (i.e., the number of warp yarns between two adjacent upper portions of the first weft yarn) is in the range of 6 to 24. Suitable equipment for measuring shrinkage is known in the art, for example, the Uster Tensorapid tester (Uster, CH) can be used to determine shrinkage.

For the purposes of this invention, the phrase "weaving in a tighter weave than the hard yarns" means that one of the weft yarns (referred to as the elastic yarn) moves up and down between the warp yarns more times than the hard weft yarn. Up and down means that the weft yarn reaches the front side of the fabric and, after passing over the warp yarns (defining the upper portion), reaches the back side of the fabric; the front side of the fabric is the visible side, and the back side will come into contact with the user of a product or garment obtained from or incorporating the fabric. In other words, within a uniform length of weft yarn, the number of warp yarns defined by the lower portion of the elastic yarn (or second yarn) is always less than the number of warp yarns defined by the lower portion of the hard (or first) yarn, as defined by one upper portion (inclusive) and the adjacent upper portion (exclusive). Preferably, for the same uniform length of fabric, as defined in the weave report (see Figures 5-14 below), the second elastic weft yarn moves up and down 2 to 12 times more than the hard yarn; the result is an elastic yarn/hard yarn upper portion ratio in the range of 2 to 12, preferably in the range of 3 to 6. In other words, in a fabric of the same width, the amount of upper elastic (second) yarn is 2 to 12 times greater than the amount of upper first (hard) yarn, and the elastic yarn is then woven more tightly than the hard yarn. Preferably, the average ratio of elastic yarn to hard yarn is between 2:1 and 1:5, inclusive. More preferably, the average ratio of elastic yarn to hard yarn is between 1:2 and 1:3, inclusive. Furthermore, the ratio of elastic yarn to hard yarn does not need to be regular or uniform throughout the fabric.

In a preferred embodiment, the number of warp yarns defining the lower portion of the second elastic weft yarn is 5 or less, the number of warp yarns passed through the loop portion of the hard yarn is in the range of 6 to 24, the shrinkage of the elastic yarn is at least 10% greater than that of the hard yarn, the ratio of the upper portion (or up-and-down movement) of one elastic yarn to one hard yarn is in the range of 2:1 to 12:1, preferably in the range of 3:1 to 6:1, and the ratio of the elastic yarn to the hard yarn is between 2:1 and 1:5, inclusive. The most preferred embodiment has an elastic yarn to hard yarn ratio of 1:2; a ratio of the upper portion of the elastic yarn to the upper portion of one hard yarn of 4:1; the back portion or loop portion of the hard yarn for every 11 warp yarns is the upper portion (11-1), and the back portion of the elastic yarn for every 2 warp yarns is the elastic yarn (2-1), as shown in the example of FIG. 5 .

According to an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, after weaving and before shrinking, the predetermined arrangement comprises a warp density of between approximately 20 and 70 warps/cm, inclusive.

According to another exemplary embodiment of the present invention, after three home washings (performed in accordance with BS 63302A or ASTM D 3776/96), the predetermined arrangement includes a warp density between approximately 25 and 80 ends/cm, and a weft density between approximately 25 and 80 picks/cm, inclusive.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, after weaving and before shrinking, the predetermined arrangement comprises a weft density between 20 and 70 picks/cm, inclusive.

In a further exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the warp yarns have an English cotton yarn count between about Ne 10 and Ne 40, inclusive.

Similarly, in another exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the elastic yarn has a denier between approximately 40 and 140 denier, inclusive.

In another exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the hard yarn has an English cotton yarn count between approximately Ne 10 and Ne 60, inclusive.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the warp yarns are ring-dyed indigo yarns.

According to another exemplary embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a product comprising a fabric having a first weave and a second weave; wherein the first weave forms the front side of the product, the first weave substantially comprising warp yarns and elastic weft yarns woven tightly in a predetermined pattern, wherein the second weave forms the back side of the fabric, the second weave substantially comprising the warp yarns and hard weft yarns woven loosely in a predetermined pattern, whereby the lower and upper portions of the hard weft yarns are alternately arranged relative to the warp yarns, the lower portions being arranged at the same time as the hard yarns are woven along the predetermined pattern. The warp yarns are formed and defined by the back side thereof when they pass through, and the upper portion is formed and defined by the connecting portion when the hard weft yarns pass along the front side thereof, wherein for each hard weft yarn, the average number of warp yarns passed through by the loop portion is at least 6, wherein the elastic weft yarns are woven tighter with respect to the warp yarns to form alternating lower and upper portions, and wherein the elastic yarns and the hard weft yarns are arranged in a predetermined arrangement including alternating at least one hard yarn and at least one elastic yarn, the elastic yarn having a shrinkage greater than that of the hard yarn.

According to another exemplary embodiment of the present invention, a method for manufacturing a fabric is provided, the method comprising: providing warp yarns; providing hard weft yarns; providing elastic weft yarns, the elastic weft yarns having a shrinkage rate greater than that of the hard weft yarns; selecting a weaving pattern, wherein at least one hard yarn is alternately arranged with at least one elastic yarn, the hard yarns alternately pass through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the back side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of hard lower parts, and alternately pass through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the front side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of hard upper parts, and for each hard yarn, the average number of warp yarns passed by each lower part is at least 6, and the elastic yarns alternately pass through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the back side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of elastic lower parts, and alternately pass through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the front side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of elastic upper parts; weaving the fabric according to the selected pattern; shrinking the woven fabric, wherein the elastic weft yarns shrink more than the hard weft yarns so that the hard lower parts form loops.

The present invention offers several advantages over the prior art. The inclusion of alternating elastic and hard weft yarns results in an elastic "structure" within the fabric; when the finished fabric is removed from the loom, i.e., no longer under tension, the first and second yarns contract in different ways and to different degrees—that is, the elastic yarn contracts more than the hard yarn, and the lower portion of the hard yarn provides a plurality of loops on the back side of the fabric (i.e., on the side of the fabric that will face the user's body). This imparts the hand, feel, and appearance of a knitted fabric to the fabric, even though the fabric is manufactured on a loom for woven fabric. This saves money on knitting equipment. Furthermore, indigo-dyed yarns, particularly indigo ring-dyed yarns, can be used without problems because the loops will protect the user's body from contact with the indigo dye, which could potentially discolor. When indigo-dyed yarns are used, the resulting fabric has the look and feel (hand) of knitted denim, an effect that cannot be achieved using the prior art.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The above and/or other aspects will become apparent and more readily understood from the following description of exemplary embodiments with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 - A fabric according to an exemplary embodiment.

Figure 2 - Front side of a fabric according to an exemplary embodiment.

Figure 3 - Back side of a fabric according to an exemplary embodiment.

Figure 4 - Functional representation of a method of making a fabric according to an exemplary embodiment.

Figure 5 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in Example 1 below.

Figure 6 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in Example 2 below.

Figure 7 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in Example 3 below.

Figure 8 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in Example 4 below.

Figure 9 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in Example 5 below.

Figure 10 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in accordance with Example 6 below.

Figure 11 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in accordance with Example 7 below.

Figure 12 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in accordance with Example 8 below.

Figure 13 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in accordance with Example 9 below.

Figure 14 - Knitting report for use with the exemplary embodiment described in accordance with Example 10 below.

Figure 15 - Cross-sectional view of a fabric according to an exemplary embodiment.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The following exemplary embodiments will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings to facilitate understanding by those skilled in the art. The concepts of the present invention can be implemented in various forms and are not limited to the exemplary embodiments set forth herein. For the sake of brevity, descriptions of well-known parts are omitted, and like reference numerals refer to like elements throughout the text.

A product according to a first exemplary embodiment is shown in Figure 1. A woven fabric 101 is shown having a front side 102 and a back side 103. The fabric 101 is woven together from warp yarns 104 and weft yarns 105, 106. According to a preferred embodiment, the warp yarns are dyed with indigo dye.

According to the exemplary embodiment, the weft yarns include elastic yarn 105 and hard yarn 106. In this exemplary embodiment, the elastic (or second) yarn 105 has a greater shrinkage than the hard (or first) yarn 106. The elastic yarn 105 and the hard yarn 106 are arranged in a predetermined arrangement, which includes alternating at least one hard yarn (105) and at least one elastic yarn. According to the exemplary embodiment shown in Figure 1, a single elastic yarn 105 is arranged between two hard yarns 106, but the yarns can be arranged differently without departing from the concept of the present invention. For example, in a preferred embodiment, the ratio of elastic yarn 105 to hard yarn 106 is between 2:1 and 1:5, inclusive. More preferably, the average ratio of elastic yarn 105 to hard yarn 106 is between 1:2 and 1:3, inclusive. In addition, the ratio of elastic yarn 105 to hard yarn 106 does not need to be uniform or the same throughout the fabric.

The fabric is woven so that the hard yarn forms alternating lower portions 107 and upper portions 108 relative to the warp yarns 104. The lower portions 107 are formed when the hard yarns pass along the back side of the warp yarns 104 and define loop portions 107a. The upper portions are formed when the hard yarns pass along the front side of the warp yarns 104 and define connecting portions 108a.

In one exemplary embodiment, the fabric includes a hard weft yarn 106, for which the number of warp yarns 104 passed through each loop portion 107a is at least 6, and preferably ranges from 6 to 24. The number of warp yarns 104 passed through each loop portion 107a need not be the same for all loop portions 107a. It is not strictly necessary that each individual loop portion 107a pass through at least 6 warp yarns 104. As long as the average number of warp yarns 104 passed through each loop for each hard yarn 106 is at least 6, the number of warp yarns 104 passed through an individual loop portion 107a may vary without departing from the present invention, as will be appreciated by those skilled in the art, assuming that the desired loops are obtained on the back side of the fabric.

Although FIG. 1 illustrates loop 107a passing through 11 warp yarns 104 as compared to one warp yarn 104 passing through each connecting portion 108a, in other exemplary embodiments, the ratio of warp yarns 104 passed through loop 107a to warp yarns passed through connecting portions 108a is between approximately 6:1 and 24:1, inclusive.

The elastic yarn forms alternating lower portions 109 and upper portions 110 relative to the warp yarns 104 in the woven fabric. These lower portions 109 and upper portions 110 form a tighter weave relative to the warp yarns 104 than the weave formed by the hard yarns 106. Although the weaving patterns shown in Figures 1-3 show that the upper portion 110 passes through one warp yarn 104 and the lower portion 109 passes through two warp yarns 104, the number of warp yarns 104 passed through by the upper portion 110 and the lower portion 109 may vary without departing from the spirit of the present invention.

According to an exemplary embodiment, the loop portion 107a of the hard yarn is made so that it is under much less tension than the lower portion 109 and upper portion 110 made from the elastic weft yarn 105. It may also be the case that the loop portion 107a is one of isostatic or compression.

The loops 107a help increase the knit-like appearance and performance of the woven fabric. For example, the looser loops 107a can hang loosely on the back of the fabric so that it droops. The drooping properties of the looser loops 107a make the fabric feel softer, very much like the feel of a knitted fabric.

Additionally, because knitting is done by joining yarn loops together, loop portion 107a gives the back of the fabric a knitted look. Furthermore, due to its length and droop, loop portion 107a can cover a much larger portion of the back of the fabric than it would if the warp yarns were tightly woven. This allows loop portion 107a to substantially conceal the sometimes uncomfortable lower portion 109. This is typically the case when loop portion 107a is made from soft cotton yarn, which provides the fabric with a soft, comfortable backside.

An additional benefit of the hanging loops 107a is that they help prevent the warp yarns 104 from coming into contact with the skin. This benefit is particularly important for denim fabrics made from indigo-dyed yarns. If these warp yarns 106 were indigo-dyed and allowed to come into contact with the wearer's skin, they could stain the wearer's skin while they are being worn.

As shown in Figures 1 and 3, loop portions 107a form a pattern that extends diagonally relative to warp yarns 104 and weft yarns 105, 106. Similarly, connecting portions 108a form a pattern that extends diagonally relative to warp yarns 104 and weft yarns 105, 106. As shown in Figure 1, the weave pattern of the hard yarns can be different from the weave pattern of the elastic yarns. For example, the weave pattern selected for the hard yarns and some other type of pattern selected for the elastic yarns can be a twill pattern. In an exemplary embodiment, the weave pattern and/or yarn selection allows fabric 101 to stretch diagonally relative to warp yarns 104 and weft yarns 105, 106.

By using a diagonal pattern, several benefits are achieved. First, when the warp yarns 104 are dyed with indigo, using a diagonal pattern can give the fabric the appearance of a typical denim weave while maintaining all the sensory benefits and properties of a knit. The diagonal pattern also allows the fabric to stretch in a diagonal direction, further increasing the knit-like properties of the fabric.

In an exemplary embodiment, after weaving and before shrinking, the preferred warp density is between approximately 20 and 70 warp threads per centimeter, inclusive. After treating the fabric and after three home washes, the preferred warp density is between approximately 25 and 80 warp threads per centimeter, inclusive. Home washes can be performed at 60°C, followed by drying, with the last wash and drying followed by an 8-hour conditioning step; these tests are common in the art and are conducted with reference to ASTM D3776/96 and BS 63302A. More preferably, after weaving and before shrinking, the warp density is between approximately 25 and 60 warp threads per centimeter, inclusive, and after three home washes, between approximately 30 and 65 warp threads per centimeter. More preferably, the warp density is between about 30 and 50 ends per centimeter, inclusive, after weaving and before shrinkage, and between about 35 and 55 ends per centimeter after three home washes. Typically, warp and weft density measurements are made at 65% humidity ± 5% and 20°C ± 2°C.

Similar to the warp density, exemplary embodiments may also define the weft density. Preferably, after weaving and before shrinkage, the weft density is between approximately 30 and 90 picks per centimeter, inclusive. After three home washes, the weft density is preferably between approximately 35 and 95 picks per centimeter, inclusive. In a preferred embodiment, more preferably, after weaving and before shrinkage, the weft density is between approximately 40 and 80 picks per centimeter, inclusive. After three home washes, more preferably, the weft density is between approximately 45 and 85 picks per centimeter, inclusive. More preferably, after weaving and before shrinkage, the weft density is between approximately 50 and 70 picks per centimeter, inclusive, and after three home washes, between approximately 55 and 75 picks per centimeter, inclusive.

The selection of warp and weft densities not only enhances the knit-like properties of the fabric but, in combination with the appropriate yarn selection, also allows for the production of fabrics with varying weights. For example, the weight can be selected to resemble that of a T-shirt, or alternatively, that of sweatpants. In an exemplary embodiment, the ratio of the average number of warp yarns passed through the loop portion to the warp density is between approximately 0.2 and 0.7, inclusive. In other exemplary embodiments, the ratio of the average number of warp yarns passed through the loop portion to the average number of warp yarns passed through the connecting portion is between approximately 6 and 24, inclusive.

Another aspect of the exemplary embodiment is the thickness of the yarns used for the warp and weft yarns. Because the elastic (second) yarns will typically be synthetic, they will be described herein using denier (den.), while the warp and hard (first) weft yarns will be described using English cotton yarn numbers (Ne). Although a numbering system is used to describe the yarns, one of ordinary skill in the art will know how to convert from one system to another and will understand that the numbering system used does not limit the properties and composition of the yarns used.

Although not drawn to scale, FIG1 illustrates that the warp, hard, and elastic fibers can have different thicknesses, and preferably the elastic fibers have a smaller thickness than the hard fibers. In an exemplary embodiment, it is preferred that the warp yarns have a thickness between approximately Ne 10 and Ne 40, inclusive. More preferably, the warp yarns have a thickness between approximately Ne 15 and Ne 25, inclusive. In an exemplary embodiment, it is preferred that the hard yarns have a thickness between approximately Ne 10 and Ne 70, inclusive. Even more preferably, the hard yarns have a thickness between approximately Ne 15 and Ne 50, inclusive. In an exemplary embodiment, it is preferred that the elastic yarns have a thickness between approximately 40 denier and 140 denier, inclusive. More preferably, the elastic yarns have a thickness between approximately 60 denier and 80 denier, inclusive.

By selecting relatively thick yarns within the range of values described in the inventive concept, several advantages can be achieved. For example, when the thickness of the hard weft yarn 106 is greater than the thickness of the elastic weft yarn 105, the thicker loop portion 107a can better hide the lower portion 109 from being visible and tactile on the back of the fabric. Selecting the correct yarn thickness increases the knit-like feel and weight of the fabric.

Figures 2 and 3 illustrate another way to view an exemplary embodiment of the present inventive concept. The exemplary embodiment can be considered as a fabric 101 having a first woven fabric 202 (shown in Figure 2) and a second woven fabric 203 (shown in Figure 3). The first woven fabric 202 generally forms the front side of the fabric 102 and generally comprises warp yarns 104 and elastic weft yarns 105, which are tightly woven in a predetermined arrangement. The second woven fabric 203 generally forms the back side of the fabric 103 and generally comprises warp yarns 104 and stiff weft yarns 106, which are loosely woven in a predetermined arrangement such that the stiff weft yarns form alternating lower portions 107 and upper portions 108 relative to the warp yarns 104. When the stiff weft yarns pass along the back side 103 of the weft yarns 104, the lower portions 107 are formed, thereby defining loop portions 107a. When the stiff weft yarns pass along the front side of the warp yarns 104, the upper portions 108 are formed, defining connecting portions 108a. As shown in FIG. 3 , the number of warp yarns 104 passed through each loop portion 107 a is 11, but in other exemplary embodiments, this number may be different.

In FIG. 2 , the first woven fabric 202 is formed by arranging the elastic weft yarns 105 relative to the warp yarns 104 in a predetermined arrangement that forms the upper portion 110 and the lower portion 109 in a tighter weave than the second woven fabric 203 .

In an exemplary embodiment, the second woven fabric 203 substantially blocks the passing warp yarns 104 on the elastic fiber 1052 of the first woven fabric 20 from being touched and viewed from the back side 103 of the fiber 101 .

FIG4 represents a method for manufacturing a fabric according to an exemplary embodiment of the present inventive concept. As shown in function block 401, the first step in the process is to provide warp yarns. This step may involve selecting the thickness of the yarns and determining the warp density. Other aspects of determining the warp yarns, known to those skilled in the art, may also be determined in this step. Typically, this step will include selecting indigo-dyed warp yarns. Using indigo-dyed warp yarns will allow the resulting fabric to take advantage of many of the unique aspects of the indigo dyeing process. These aspects include, but are not limited to, the unique weathering effect that can be achieved using ring-dyed indigo yarns.

Function block 402 is a step for providing a hard weft yarn. Similar to step 401, this step can include determining all aspects of the hard weft yarn known to those skilled in the art, including but not limited to: yarn thickness, shrinkage, elasticity, color, weft density, etc. Function block 403 represents a similar step for elastic weft yarn. In this step, all aspects of the elastic weft yarn can be selected.

Function block 404 represents the step of determining a weave pattern. In this step, any weave pattern known to those skilled in the art can be selected, as long as at least one hard yarn is alternately arranged with at least one elastic yarn; the hard yarn is alternately passed through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the back side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of upper and lower portions, and alternately passed through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the front side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a hard upper portion; the average number of warp yarns passed through each lower portion is at least 6; and the elastic yarn is alternately passed through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the back side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of elastic lower portions, and alternately passed through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the front side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of elastic upper portions.

Function block 405 represents weaving the warp and weft yarns according to the selected weave pattern.

Function block 406 represents the step of shrinking the fabric after weaving. During this shrinking, the elastic yarns shrink more than the hard yarns, causing the lower portion to become a loop. Shrinkage occurs naturally as soon as the fabric is removed from the loom and the yarns are no longer under tension; further shrinkage is performed by wetting the fabric during the finishing process.

In an exemplary embodiment, the loop portion is under much less tension than the upper and lower portions formed from the elastic yarn. In other exemplary embodiments, the loop portion is in at least one of an equilibrium and a compression state.

Other exemplary embodiments may add steps to treat the manufactured fabric. These steps may include applying an aging effect to the polished fabric, such as bleaching, manual scraping, sandblasting, stonewashing, and other steps known to those skilled in the art. These steps may include brushing the front or back of the fabric. The process may also include printing fonts and pictures on the fabric, or embroidering patterns and logos on the fabric. The fabric may be ripped and torn to meet the needs of current fashion trends. The process may also include cutting the fabric into garments, or other steps known to those skilled in the art.

What follows is a very specific example of an exemplary embodiment of the present invention. The present invention is capable of other and different embodiments without departing from the scope and spirit of the present invention. The examples should be considered illustrative and not restrictive. The examples are illustrated with reference to the weave reports of Figures 5-14; as is known to the skilled person, a weave report is a grafic reproduction of the smallest repeating unit (a single part) of a fabric. This means that the weft and warp yarns will repeat the pattern shown by the weave report. As an example, in Figure 5, weft yarn 37 will be the same as weft yarn 1, weft yarn 38 will be the same as weft yarn 2, and so on, and the same applies to the warp yarns: W13 is the same as W1, and so on.

Example 1

The result of this exemplary embodiment is a knitted fabric with the weight and feel of a knitted T-shirt, but it is achieved using indigo dyed yarn, which will allow the application of the abrasive effect that was previously only available at great expense to the knitted fabric. The warp, weft, warp density, weft density, and loom settings are selected according to the values in Table 1. These selections give the resulting fabric a weight of approximately 5-7oz/sqyd (170-240g/cm2). The weaving pattern can be selected based on the weaving report drawn in Figure 5. Weaving is performed using a weaving loom of the dobby type with a weft selection system.

Table 1

After weaving, the fabric is wetted and stretched in the length (warp) direction. As this occurs, the fabric shrinks in the width (weft) direction, with the Lycra yarn pulling the weft yarns together. Because the cotton weft yarns don't contain elastic, they don't shrink as much as the Lycra yarns, and the cotton yarns float to the back of the fabric, forming long loops that cover most of the back side of the fabric. After shrinking, the fabric is heat-set to reduce shrinkage in further garment washes.

The resulting fabric has the weight and feel of a knit, including the much softer feel typically associated with knits. Simultaneously, the indigo warp yarns impart the warp-side fabric with the appearance and qualities of denim, including the ability to achieve polished effects such as abrasion. The back side of the fabric is white due to the undyed warp yarns and is extremely soft due to the long loops formed therein. By predominating the back side of the fabric with long loops, the wearer of a garment made from the fabric is prevented from touching the uncomfortable polyester weft yarns. The long loops also prevent the indigo dye from reaching the wearer, preventing it from escaping when worn.

Due at least in part to the selection of weaves and elastic weft yarns, the resulting fabric has highly elastic properties. These properties include the ability to stretch in all directions, not just the weft direction.

Example 2

The result of this example is a knit fabric with the weight and feel of a knit. The warp and weft yarns, warp density, weft density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in FIG6 . Inspection of the weave report shows that the ratio of elastic yarn to hard yarn is 2:1, as opposed to 1:2 in Example 1. The upper elastic/hard yarn ratio is 4:1, meaning that the number of up and down movements of the elastic yarn (reference numerals 1 and 2 in the second column from the left) is four times the number of up and down movements of the hard yarn (reference numeral 3 in the aforementioned column).

Example 3

The result of this example is a knit fabric with the weight and feel of a knit. The warp and weft yarns, warp density, weft density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in FIG7 . Inspection of the weave report shows that the ratio of elastic yarn to hard yarn is 1:1, as opposed to 1:2 in Example 1. The upper elastic/hard yarn ratio is 4:1, meaning the number of up and down movements of the elastic yarn (reference numeral 1 in the second column from the left) is four times the number of up and down movements of the hard yarn (reference numeral 2 in the aforementioned column).

Example 4

The result of this example is a knitted fabric with the weight and feel of a knitted fabric. The warp, weft, warp density, weft density, and loom settings are selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern is selected according to the weave report shown in Figure 8. As can be seen in the weave report, the weave on the front side of the fabric is a herringbone twill, and the number of warp yarns passed through by the elastic weft yarn (reference numeral 1 in the second column from the left) does not need to be the same throughout the weave. For example, the number of warp yarns passed through by the weft yarn at weft yarn 27 is different from the number of warp yarns passed through by the weft yarn at weft yarn 21. Therefore, the upper ratio of elastic yarn/hard yarn is 2:1, 3:1, and 4:1, depending on the weft yarn (reference numeral 1 in the column mentioned above).

Example 5

The result of this example is a knitted fabric with the weight and feel of a knitted fabric. The warp yarns, weft yarns, warp yarn density, weft yarn density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in FIG9 ; the upper ratio of elastic yarn (reference numeral 1) to hard yarn (reference numeral 2) was 3:1. This example uses another exemplary embodiment of a weave pattern.

Example 6

The result of this example is a knitted fabric with the weight and feel of a knitted fabric. The warp yarns, weft yarns, warp yarn density, weft yarn density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in FIG10 ; the upper ratio of elastic yarn (reference numeral 1) to hard yarn (reference numeral 2) was 3:1. This example uses another exemplary embodiment of a weave pattern.

Example 7

The result of this example is a knitted fabric with the weight and feel of a knitted fabric. The warp yarn, weft yarn, warp yarn density, weft yarn density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in Figure 11; the upper ratio of elastic yarn (reference numeral 1) to hard yarn (reference numeral 2) was 4:1. As can be seen from the values shown in Table 1, this example uses a synthetic weft yarn that does not include Lycra.

Example 8

The result of this example is a knitted fabric with the weight and feel of a knitted fabric. The warp yarns, weft yarns, warp yarn density, weft yarn density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in FIG12 . As can be seen in the weave pattern of FIG12 , the lower portion of the hard weft yarn passes through 20 warp yarns. The ratio of the elastic yarn (reference numeral 1) to the upper portion of the hard yarn (reference numeral 2) was 7:1.

Example 9

The result of this example is a knitted fabric with the weight and feel of a knitted fabric. The warp yarns, weft yarns, warp density, weft density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in Figure 13; the ratio of elastic yarn (reference numeral 1) to the upper portion of hard yarn (reference numerals 2 and 3) was 4:1. As can be seen in Table 1, the hard weft yarns of this example are polyester yarns. As a result of these polyester yarns, the resulting fabric has a greater weight than the previous example. Embodiments such as Example 9 and other examples may include brushing the back side of the fabric.

Example 10

The result of this example is a knit fabric with the weight and feel of a knit. The warp and weft yarns, warp density, weft density, and loom settings were selected according to the values in Table 1. The weave pattern was selected according to the weave report shown in Figure 14; the upper ratio of elastic yarn (reference numeral 1) to hard yarn (reference numerals 2 and 3) was 4:1. As can be seen in Table 1, the use of a heavier cotton hard weft yarn resulted in the heavier fabric weight of this example.

Claims (45)

1. An elastic fabric (101) having a front side (102) and a back side (103), and comprising a plurality of warp yarns (104) and a plurality of weft yarns (105, 106) woven together in a pattern, wherein the weft yarns comprise a first stiff weft yarn (106) and a second elastic weft yarn (105) arranged in a predetermined arrangement, the predetermined arrangement comprising alternating at least one first stiff weft yarn (106) and at least one second elastic weft yarn. The first stiff weft yarn forms alternating lower portions (107) and upper portions (108) relative to the warp yarn (104). The lower portion (107) forms and defines a loop (107a) when the first stiff weft yarn passes along the rear side of the warp yarn (104), and the upper portion forms and defines a connecting portion (108a) when the first stiff weft yarn passes along the front side of the warp yarn. For each first hard weft yarn (106), the average number of warp yarns (104) passing through the loop (107a) is at least 6. The second elastic weft yarn (105) is woven more tightly than the first hard weft yarn (106) to form alternating lower (109) and upper (110) sections. Both the second elastic weft yarn and the first hard weft yarn are elastic. The second elastic weft yarn (105) and the first stiff weft yarn (106) provide an elastic structure in the fabric such that when the second elastic weft yarn shrinks more than the first stiff weft yarn, the lower portion (107) of the first stiff weft yarn provides a plurality of loops (107a) on the back side of the elastic fabric. The elastic fabric is an extended fabric, at least in the weft direction. The thickness of the first hard weft yarn (106) is greater than that of the second elastic weft yarn (105). The second elastic weft yarn (105) comprises a mixture of elastic and inelastic fibers, and The second elastic weft yarn (105) is elastic. 2. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the number of warp yarns (104) passing through the loop portion (107a) is at least 6 times the number of warp yarns passing through the connecting portion (108a). 3. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the number of warp yarns (104) passing through the loop (107a) formed by the lower part of the first hard weft yarn is at least 6 times the number of warp yarns passing through the connecting portion (108a) formed by the upper part of the first hard weft yarn (106); the number of warp yarns (104) passing through the loop (107a) is in the range of 6 to 24. 4. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the loop portion (107a) of the adjacent first stiff weft yarn (106) forms a pattern extending along the diagonal direction relative to the warp yarn (104) and the weft yarn, wherein the fabric extends along the diagonal direction relative to the warp yarn and the weft yarn. 5. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the connection of adjacent first stiff weft yarns forms a pattern extending along a direction relative to the diagonal of the warp and the weft yarns. 6. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fabric extends along a direction diagonally relative to the warp and weft yarns. 7. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the weaving pattern of the first hard weft yarn (106) is different from the weaving pattern of the second elastic weft yarn (105). 8. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the weave pattern of the second elastic weft yarn (105) is a twill pattern. 9. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, after the weaving and before shrinkage, the predetermined arrangement includes a warp density between 20 and 70 warp yarns/cm, including 20 and 70 warp yarns/cm. 10. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, after three household washes, the predetermined arrangement comprises a warp density between 25 and 80 warp/cm. 11. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 9, characterized in that, after the weaving and before shrinkage, the predetermined arrangement comprises a warp density between 25 and 60 warp yarns/cm. 12. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that, after three household washes, the predetermined arrangement includes a warp density between 30 and 65 warp/cm, including a warp density between 30 and 65 warp/cm. 13. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 11, characterized in that, after the weaving and before shrinkage, the predetermined arrangement comprises a warp density between 30 and 50 warp yarns/cm. 14. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 12, characterized in that, after three household washes, the predetermined arrangement includes a warp density between 5 and 55 warp/cm, and between 35 and 55 warp/cm. 15. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, after the weaving and before shrinkage, the predetermined arrangement includes a weft density between 30 and 90 weft yarns/cm, including 30 and 90 weft yarns/cm. 16. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, after three household washes, the predetermined arrangement includes a weft density between 35 and 95 weft yarns/cm, including 35 and 95 weft yarns/cm. 17. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 15, characterized in that, after the weaving and before shrinkage, the predetermined arrangement comprises a weft density between 40 and 80 weft yarns/cm, including 40 and 80 weft yarns/cm. 18. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 16, characterized in that, after three household washes, the predetermined arrangement includes a weft density between 45 and 85 weft yarns/cm, including 45 and 85 weft yarns/cm. 19. The elastic fabric of claim 17, wherein the predetermined arrangement comprises a weft density between 50 and 70 weft yarns/cm after the weaving and before shrinkage. 20. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 18, characterized in that, after three household washes, the predetermined arrangement includes a weft density between 55 and 75 weft yarns/cm, including 55 and 75 weft yarns/cm. 21. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the warp yarns have an English cotton yarn count between Ne 10 and Ne 30, including Ne 10 and Ne 30. 22. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 21, wherein the warp yarns have an English cotton yarn count between Ne 15 and Ne 25, including Ne 15 and Ne 25. 23. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first stiff weft yarn has a number of English cotton yarns between Ne 10 and Ne 70, including Ne 10 and Ne 70. 24. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 23, wherein the first stiff weft yarn has a number of English cotton yarns between Ne 15 and Ne 50, including Ne 15 and Ne 50. 25. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the second elastic weft yarn has a denier between 40 and 140 deniers, including 40 and 140 deniers. 26. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 25, wherein the second elastic weft yarn has a denier between 50 and 90 deniers, including 50 and 90 deniers. 27. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the elongation of the second elastic weft yarn (105) is at least 10% greater than the elongation of the first stiff weft yarn (106). 28. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp yarn (104) is indigo-dyed yarn. 29. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp yarn (104) is ring-dyed yarn. 30. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the ratio of warp yarns (104) passed through the loop portion (107a) and the connecting portion (108a) is between 6:1 and 24:1, including 6:1 and 24:1. 31. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the ratio of the quantity of the second elastic weft yarn (105) to the quantity of the first hard weft yarn (106) is between 2:1 and 1:5, including 2:1 and 1:5. 32. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 31, characterized in that the ratio of the quantity of the second elastic weft yarn (105) to the quantity of the first hard weft yarn (106) is between 1:2 and 1:3, including 1:2 and 1:3. 33. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, for a corresponding number of warp yarns (104) in the woven pattern, the ratio of the number of upper portions (110) obtained by the up-and-down movement of the second elastic weft yarn (105) to the number of upper portions obtained by the up-and-down movement of the first hard weft yarn (106) is 2 to 12 times. 34. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the lower portion (109) of the second elastic weft yarn is covered by the loop portion (107a), wherein the lower portion (109) of the second elastic weft yarn is difficult to see and touch when the fabric (101) is in a relaxed state. 35. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the loop portion (107a) prevents the warp yarns (104) passing through the connecting portion from contacting the surface covered by the fabric. 36. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the ratio of the average number of warp yarns passed through the loop to the warp density is between 0.2 and 0.7, including 0.2 and 0.7. 37. The elastic fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the ratio of the average number of warp yarns (104) passed through the loop portion (107a) to the average number of warp yarns (104) passed through the connecting portion (108a) is between 6 and 24, including 6 and 24. 38. A garment comprising the fabric (101) as claimed in any one of claims 1-37, wherein the loop portion is located only on the inside of the garment. 39. A method for manufacturing an elastic fabric, the method comprising: Provide warp yarn (104); Provide the first hard weft yarn (106); A second elastic weft yarn (105) is provided, wherein both the second elastic weft yarn and the first stiff weft yarn are elastic; Choose a weave pattern, among which At least one first stiff weft yarn (106) and at least one second elastic weft yarn (105) are arranged alternately. The first stiff weft yarn alternately passes through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the back side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a series of stiff lower portions (107), and alternately passes through a predetermined number of warp yarns along the front side of the warp yarns, each pass forming a stiff upper portion (108), and For each stiff yarn, the average number of warp yarns (104) passed through each lower section is at least 6, and The second elastic weft yarn (105) alternately passes through the back side of the warp yarns in a predetermined number of warp yarns to form a series of elastic lower parts each time, and alternately passes through the front side of the warp yarns in a predetermined number of warp yarns to form a series of elastic upper parts each time, thereby forming an elastic structure in the fabric by the alternating second elastic weft yarn and first stiff weft yarn. The fabric is woven according to the selected pattern; The woven fabric is shrunken, wherein the second elastic weft yarn shrunken more than the first stiff weft yarn so that the stiff lower portion forms a loop (107a). Wherein, the elastic fabric is an extended fabric at least in the weft direction, and The thickness of the first hard weft yarn (106) is greater than that of the second elastic weft yarn (105). The second elastic weft yarn (105) comprises a mixture of elastic and inelastic fibers, and The second elastic weft yarn (105) is elastic. 40. The method of claim 39, wherein a shrinkage step occurs when the fabric is removed from the loom and the yarn is no longer under tension, and further shrinkage is performed by wetting the fabric. 41. The method of claim 40, wherein the method further comprises applying at least one of the following to the fabric: bleaching, manual scraping, sandblasting, stone washing, printing pictures, printing fonts, embroidery, brushing, and abrasion. 42. The method of claim 40, wherein the method further comprises cutting the fabric into garments. 43. The method according to any one of claims 39-41, wherein the step of providing the warp yarn includes selecting the warp yarn density for the warp yarn. 44. The method according to any one of claims 39-42, wherein the step of providing the first stiff weft yarn and the second elastic weft yarn further includes selecting the weft yarn density. 45. The method as claimed in claim 37, characterized in that the number of warp yarns (104) passing through the loop (107a) formed by the lower portion of the first hard weft yarn is at least six times the number of warp yarns passing through the connecting portion (108a) formed by the upper portion of the first hard weft yarn (106); the number of warp yarns (104) passing through the loop (107a) is in the range of 6 to 24, the loop (107a) being disposed on the rear side of the fabric, whereby the loop (107a) of adjacent first hard weft yarns (106) and the connecting portion (108a) of adjacent first hard weft yarns formed by the upper portion of the first hard weft yarns (106) form a pattern extending along the direction relative to the diagonal of the warp yarns (104) and the weft yarns, so as to provide a diagonal pattern, thereby the fabric extending along the direction relative to the diagonal of the warp yarns and the weft yarns.