HK1125423B - Cellulose fiber blended fabric - Google Patents

Cellulose fiber blended fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
HK1125423B
HK1125423B HK09103434.9A HK09103434A HK1125423B HK 1125423 B HK1125423 B HK 1125423B HK 09103434 A HK09103434 A HK 09103434A HK 1125423 B HK1125423 B HK 1125423B
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HK
Hong Kong
Prior art keywords
water
fabric
fibers
fiber
cellulose
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HK09103434.9A
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Chinese (zh)
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HK1125423A1 (en
Inventor
Yuji Yoshida
Shoichi Akita
Original Assignee
Asahi Kasei Advance Corporation
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Application filed by Asahi Kasei Advance Corporation filed Critical Asahi Kasei Advance Corporation
Priority claimed from PCT/JP2007/051227 external-priority patent/WO2007086491A1/en
Publication of HK1125423A1 publication Critical patent/HK1125423A1/en
Publication of HK1125423B publication Critical patent/HK1125423B/en

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Description

Fabric for cellulose fiber mixture
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a fabric in which fibers that change in size when absorbing water are mixed. More specifically, a fabric comfortable to wear and wear during sweating, which incorporates a cellulose fiber that undergoes a dimensional change upon water absorption (self-elongation upon water absorption or self-contraction upon water absorption).
Background
Conventional clothes absorb sweat when sweating during activities such as sports, and the skin and the fabric are closely bonded to each other, so that the clothes have a so-called sticky feeling and a stuffy feeling. In order to prevent this phenomenon, various fabrics have been developed, but improvement of comfort during sweat absorption is limited only by the structure of the fabric. In order to eliminate the sticky feeling and stuffy feeling, fabrics and clothes using fibers that are self-extending during sweat absorption (water absorption) have been proposed. For example, there have been proposed clothes using fibers that are self-extensible during water absorption to improve air permeability during water absorption (see patent documents 1, 2, and 3), and clothes that exhibit irregularities during perspiration absorption (see patent documents 4 and 5).
The garments proposed in these patent documents are certainly more comfortable to sweat than garments that do not use water-absorbing self-extending filaments. However, these clothes use fibers having little hygroscopicity and water absorption, and cannot absorb water that is not excreted by the body. Therefore, even if the garment is not worn in the sweating state, the garment has a feeling of discomfort, and further, since the garment does not have a sweat-absorbing property during sweating, the garment has a sticky feeling and a stuffy feeling. It is also known that if ordinary cellulose fibers are used, they have good moisture absorption properties and are comfortable to wear. However, since a sticky feeling and a stuffy feeling are felt during sweating such as exercise, a further high-performance fabric having improved air permeability during water absorption is desired. As described above, there is no fiber that is comfortable when worn and when sweaty occurs.
Patent document 1: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 2005-163225
Patent document 2: japanese unexamined patent application publication No. 2005-36374
Patent document 3: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 2005-23431
Patent document 4: japanese unexamined patent application publication No. 2005-146496
Patent document 5: japanese unexamined patent publication No. 2006-112009
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a fabric which is comfortable to wear and free from stickiness and stuffiness in sweating.
The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to achieve the object, including wearing tests and the like, and as a result, have found that a problem can be achieved with a fabric using epoch-making cellulose fibers that change in size when absorbing water.
That is, the object of the present invention is achieved by the following cellulose fiber mixed fabric.
(1) A cellulose fiber-blended fabric characterized by containing a cellulose fiber having a dimensional change rate upon water absorption of 2% or more.
(2) The cellulose fiber-blended fabric according to the item (1), which is characterized by containing a water-absorbing self-stretching cellulose fiber having a water absorption elongation of + 3% or more.
(3) The cellulose fiber-mixed fabric according to (2), wherein the content of the cellulose fibers is 10% by weight or more.
(4) The cellulose fiber mixed fabric according to (3) has a circular knitted structure having a portion in which 2 or more loops (loop) of floating loops and/or tuck loops formed of a water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber having a water absorption elongation of + 3% or more are continuously formed.
(5) The cellulose fiber-blended fabric described in (3) has a warp-knitted structure, wherein the self-stretching cellulose fibers having water absorption elongation of + 3% or more are looped, and the knit fabric has a structure in which the guide bar is shogging by 1 to 4 stitches, and the reduction rate of the density of the knitted fabric upon water absorption is 5 to 40%.
(6) The fabric for cellulose fiber mixture according to (4) or (5), wherein the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber is subjected to an immersion treatment in an aqueous alkali solution of 20g/L or more at 20 ℃ or more for 5 minutes or more.
(7) The fabric for cellulose fiber mixture according to item (1), which is characterized by containing a water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fiber having a water-absorbing elongation of-2% or less.
(8) The cellulose fiber-blended fabric according to item (7), which is a multi-layer fabric having a separation part and a non-separation part repeatedly formed therein, wherein the outer layer and/or the intermediate layer on one side contains water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers having a water-absorbing elongation of-2% or less, the outer layer on the other side is composed of non-water-absorbing shrinking fibers, and the non-separation part in the course (course) direction is composed of non-shrinking fibers.
(9) The cellulose fiber-blended fabric according to (7), which is a three-dimensional structure fabric having a separation part and a non-separation part repeatedly formed therein, wherein the outer layer (C) on one side constituting the separation part contains water-absorbent self-shrinking cellulose fibers having a water-absorbent elongation of-2% or less, the outer layer (D) on the other side contains non-water-absorbent shrinking fibers, and the number of courses of both outer layers satisfies (C) > (D).
(10) The cellulose fiber-blended fabric according to (7), wherein the twist factor of the water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fiber is 8200 to 35000.
By using the fiber of the present invention, a fabric which is comfortable to wear and does not have a sticky or stuffy feeling during perspiration can be produced. In particular, the fabric can greatly exhibit the effect of moisture absorption and release during exercise, and is greatly different from the clothes as shown in patent documents 1 to 5 which have been proposed so far in wearing comfort. Further, since the cellulose fiber changes in size when absorbing water (when absorbing sweat when wearing clothes), the moisture absorption/release properties can be improved in particular, and therefore the effect of using the cellulose fiber can be further improved, and the effect of changing the water absorption size of the cellulose fiber can be obtained even with a particularly small amount of moisture. Therefore, if the fiber of the present invention is used, it is possible to produce clothes which are comfortable to wear and do not feel sticky or stuffy even when sweating. When the fabric produced using the fiber of the present invention is used for sweaters, undergarments, coats, and the like, comfortable wearing feeling can be obtained.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a view showing an example of a woven structure in a cellulose-blended fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 2 shows an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 3 shows an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 5 shows an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a view showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 8 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 9 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 10 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 11 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 12 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 13 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 14 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 15 is a drawing showing an example of a woven structure in the cellulose-blended fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 16 is a drawing showing an example of a weave structure in a cellulose-blended fabric according to the present invention.
Description of the symbols
[8] weaving sequence
[ R ] tissue of non-separating part provided in part
11 dial needle
12-cylinder needle
13 ordinary fiber
14 cellulose fiber having a dimensional change rate of 2% or more upon water absorption
21 separating part
22 non-separating part
A is the outer layer of the separating part
B the other outer layer of the separation part
C one side outer layer of the separation part
D the other outer layer of the separation part
K-coil
T-shaped coil
W floating coil
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail below.
The cellulose fiber in the present invention means cuprammonium fiber, rayon, refined cellulose fiber, bamboo fiber, cotton, etc., and regenerated cellulose such as cuprammonium fiber, rayon, etc. is preferably used. In addition, for the production of a knitted fabric, long fibers and short fibers (spun yarns) of these can be used. The long fibers may be used in amounts of 11dt (dtex: hereinafter, the same reference numerals are used) to 400dt, and the short fibers may be used in amounts of 160S (cotton count: hereinafter, the same reference numerals are used) to 10S. The yarn may be formed by twisting long fibers and short fibers into a double or triple yarn, or by doubling long fibers and short fibers, and may be used in a thickness suitable for the structure. The long fibers are preferably 40dt to 170dt, and the short fibers are preferably 30S to 120S, because of ease of handling.
The fabric of the present invention is a fabric in which cellulose fibers having a dimensional change rate of 2% or more when absorbing water are mixed. As the cellulose fibers having a dimensional change rate of 2% or more upon water absorption, there are 2 types of water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers and water-absorbent self-contractible cellulose fibers. The present inventors have found a method for obtaining water-absorbing self-extensible cellulose fibers and water-absorbing self-contractible cellulose fibers in an ideal manner, and have studied a fabric structure for maximizing the respective performances, and have completed the present invention.
The water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber is a cellulose fiber having a water absorption elongation of + 2% or more, and preferably a water absorption elongation of + 3% or more.
The water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers mean cellulose fibers having a water-absorbing elongation of-2% or less.
In the present invention, a fiber having a dimensional change rate of less than 2% upon water absorption is referred to as a normal fiber. Examples of the ordinary fibers include polyester fibers such as polyester and 1, 3-trimethylene terephthalate, polyamide fibers, polyurethane fibers, cellulose fibers which are not subjected to alkali treatment or twisting described later and which do not impart a property of imparting dimensional change in water absorption, and long fibers or short fibers of arbitrary fibers such as acetate fibers and wool. The cross-sectional shape is arbitrary, and may be a special-shaped yarn such as a round cross-section or a W-shaped cross-section.
In the present invention, the dimensional change rate upon water absorption is determined by the following method. The fiber length (A) was measured under a load of 0.05g/dt (dtex) in an atmosphere of 20 ℃ and 65% RH, and then the fiber was immersed in water for 30 seconds. The fibers were then removed from the water and the fiber length (B) was measured after 30 seconds under a load of 0.05 g/dt. The water absorption elongation was determined by the following formula (1). The absolute value of the obtained water absorption elongation is defined as the dimensional change rate upon water absorption as shown in the following formula (2).
In the measurement of the dimensional change rate at the time of water absorption of the fibers in the fabric, the fibers were drawn out from the fabric and measured under the same conditions. At this time, the fiber length to be measured was set to 30cm, and when the 30cm fiber could not be drawn out from the fabric, the drawn fiber length was measured. In this case, the number of measurement samples is increased as appropriate to obtain an accurate value. Further, when a plurality of types of fibers having different dimensional change rates upon water absorption are combined into a composite yarn, a blended yarn, or a twisted yarn by fluid blending processing such as warp and weft interlacing, the fibers are pulled out from the fabric, and the dimensional change rate upon water absorption is measured in the state of the composite yarn, the blended yarn, or the twisted yarn under the same conditions.
Water absorption elongation (%) ((B-a)/a) × 100(1)
The percent change in dimension upon water absorption (%) -absolute value of elongation upon water absorption (2)
The following describes the structures of water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers and the fabric of the present invention using the fibers.
The water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber of the present invention has a water absorption elongation of + 2% or more, preferably + 3% or more. In order to make the cellulose fibers into water-absorbent self-extending yarns, ordinary cellulose fibers may be treated in an aqueous alkali solution. Processes for treating cellulosic fibres with alkali have been known, for example mercerisation is the most common treatment process. However, the present invention has been made to overcome the conventional common knowledge and succeeded in producing a cellulose fiber having an elongation of 2% or more, preferably 3% or more, upon absorption of water by severe alkali treatment.
Specifically, the cellulose fiber can be obtained by immersing cellulose fibers in an aqueous solution containing, for example, 20g/L (liter) or more of sodium hydroxide at 20 ℃ or more for 5 minutes or more. The control of the water absorption elongation can be performed by controlling these conditions. For example, the more moderate the treatment conditions such as alkali concentration, temperature, time, etc., the less the water absorption elongation, but if the treatment conditions are too severe, it is difficult to obtain a cellulose fiber having a water absorption elongation of a certain degree or more, for example, 20%. The alkali treatment agent may be any known one, and for example, an alkali metal hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide may be used.
The alkali concentration is more preferably 20 to 200 g/L. The treatment temperature and the treatment time are preferably 20 to 110 ℃ for 5 to 120 minutes, respectively. The treatment temperature is the maximum temperature at the time of treatment, and the treatment time is the total time including the time from exceeding 20 ℃ after addition of the alkali, reaching the maximum temperature, cooling to less than 20 ℃ after treatment at the maximum temperature, as long as these times are 5 minutes or more. After the cooling water is discharged, it is preferable to quickly perform washing and neutralization. The alkali treatment method is any method such as a method of performing the alkali treatment in a state of cellulose fibers and performing the dyeing finishing after the knitting step, or a method of manufacturing a fabric using cellulose fibers before the alkali treatment, then performing the alkali treatment, and then performing the dyeing finishing, but the method performed after the manufacture of the fabric is easily performed.
Further, the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers can be obtained by immersing in a strong acid solution such as acetic acid or malic acid, but the effect of the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers is somewhat smaller than that of the alkali treatment under the above conditions.
The use of cellulose fibers having particularly excellent moisture absorption and release properties in the cellulose fiber mixed fabric of the present invention is very advantageous in wearing comfort, and is greatly different from the wearing comfort of the fabrics as shown in patent documents 1 to 5 proposed so far. That is, by using the water-absorbing self-stretching cellulose fiber which is a significant feature of the cellulose fiber mixed fabric of the present invention, the cellulose fiber can be stretched when absorbing water (when absorbing sweat in the case of wearing clothes), the moisture releasing property can be improved, and the use effect of the cellulose fiber can be further improved.
As a method for mixing the water-absorbent self-elongated cellulose fiber with the ordinary fiber, a method of interlacing or interweaving the ordinary fiber and the water-absorbent self-elongated cellulose fiber by doubling or the like on a knitting machine or a weaving machine, or a method of using the water-absorbent self-elongated cellulose fiber and the ordinary fiber as a composite yarn such as interlacing, composite false twisting, warp and weft interlacing, making a fabric, and mixing the fabric and the fabric can be used. In addition, in the case of producing a composite yarn, the composite yarn may not be able to be stretched significantly upon water absorption by the composite method. In order to avoid such a situation, the feeding amount (feed rate) is designed so that the yarn length difference between the normal fiber and the water-absorbent self-elongation cellulose fiber is 0 to 9% shorter than that of the water-absorbent self-elongation cellulose fiber in a state of being processed into a fabric. When the yarn length difference is more than 9%, the strength of the composite yarn is insufficient, and sufficient fabric strength cannot be obtained. In addition, when the self-extending cellulose fibers absorbing water are long, the fibers become coarse in appearance and the moisture absorbing and releasing properties are reduced, and the object of the present invention may not be achieved.
Further, in the composite yarn, the mixing ratio of the water-absorbent self-stretching cellulose fibers can be arbitrarily set in consideration of the effect obtained by the fabric design. The mixing ratio of the cellulose fibers which absorb water and are self-stretched is preferably 20 to 80%.
When a fabric such as a knitted fabric or a woven fabric is produced using the water-absorbent self-expandable cellulose fiber of the present invention, various functions which are comfortable in perspiration can be provided by designing the knitted fabric or the woven fabric. For example, taking as an example a structure in the case where the cellulose-based fibers in the water-absorbing part are stretched during perspiration and the surface fibers constituting the fabric protrude to form protrusions on the surface of the fabric, a double-sided (double) circular knitting machine is used to form a structure in which a separated part, which separates one outer layer containing the water-absorbing self-extending cellulose fibers from the other outer layer containing the normal fibers, and a non-separated part are regularly or irregularly repeated, and the water-absorbing self-extending cellulose fibers are stretched during perspiration, and the knitted fabric is uneven, thereby forming a garment capable of suppressing the stickiness.
Further, if the structure of the fabric and the weaving yarn are designed so that the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber absorbs sweat and then becomes larger, and the density of the sweat-absorbing portion is reduced, it is possible to produce clothes which do not feel stuffy when sweat is produced such as sports. In the case of producing clothes which are not felt to be stuffy, the resulting knitted fabric of clothes is more effective than woven fabric. For example, in the circular rib weave, the non-water-absorbent elongated fibers and the cellulose fibers may be designed such that 1 fiber is alternated, or 1 water-absorbent self-elongated cellulose fiber is arranged in 3 fibers. As described above, in the present invention, by effectively designing the self-extensible water-absorbent cellulose fiber with a circular knitting machine for single jersey, circular knitting machine for double jersey, single warp knitting machine, double warp knitting machine, machine knitting machine, etc., it is possible to absorb sweat during sweating such as sports, to form unevenness on a fabric, and to reduce the texture of the fabric constituting the water-absorbent portion and the density of the weaving yarn. In the case of warp knitting, the effect of the present invention can be preferably achieved by selecting a warp knitting structure in which a portion having a long sinking curve is formed such as a warp pile structure (bar shog 2 needle) formed of a warp plain structure (bar shog 1 needle), a warp satin structure (bar shog 3 needle) formed of a warp pile structure, and the like, and the self-elongation cellulose fibers absorbing water are arranged in the portion as a warp knitting structure of one guide bar.
In the case of woven fabric, the surface layer and the inner layer of the woven fabric may be designed to have a structure in which warp yarns or weft yarns are raised and lengthened, or as a double woven fabric, the surface layer and the inner layer of the woven fabric may be provided with connecting portions every 10 in the warp direction and the weft direction partially, and the water-absorbent self-elongation cellulose fibers may be stretched during sweat absorption, thereby forming unevenness in the fabric or reducing the density of the sweat absorption portions. In these fabrics, the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers do not necessarily have to be exposed on the surface, and for example, as a 3-layer structure, it is possible to arrange the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers in the intermediate layer, and the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers in the intermediate layer are stretched during sweat absorption, and the normal fibers in the outer layer are extruded to form irregularities and reduce the density in the fabric.
Thus, by using the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers, clothes which are comfortable particularly when sweaty occurs during sports can be produced. However, if the cellulose fiber has a water absorption elongation of less than + 2%, the fabric structure is less changed, and comfortable clothes for perspiration such as sports cannot be produced.
The cellulose fiber mixed fabric of the present invention preferably contains water-absorbing self-stretching cellulose fibers having a water absorption elongation of 10% or more of + 2% or more, preferably + 3% or more. In the case where the mixing ratio of the water-absorbing self-extensible cellulose fibers is less than 10%, the effect of suppressing the stuffy feeling cannot be effectively exerted even if the cellulose fibers are extended upon water absorption. The effect of the present invention is most exhibited by a knitted fabric having a more preferable mixing ratio of 15 to 100% and 100% of water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers.
If the fiber is mixed with common fibers such as cotton, acrylic, polyester, nylon and the like, the consideration of the aspects of hand feeling, strength and the like can be eliminated, and various clothes can be processed.
The method of mixing the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers with the ordinary fibers is optional, and if the cellulose fibers are arranged in a structure in which the fibers are arranged in the course direction or the wale direction, an effect can be obtained. For example, in the case of a knitted interlock, the effect of the present invention can be further exhibited by using water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers continuously in 2 courses, using water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers for all the courses in the course direction, and using ordinary fibers such as cotton and acrylic fibers for the adjacent courses. In the case of a structure such as a circular rib structure in which 1 type of fibers is used for all the courses in 1 course, the effect of the present invention can be exhibited if the structure is arranged so that the mixing ratio of the water-absorbent self-elongation cellulose fibers is 10% or more.
In addition, the cellulose fiber mixed fabric of the present invention has a particularly high effect if the knitted fabric has a part in which a float loop (welt loop) and/or a tuck loop (tack loop) of at least 2 loops (loops) formed of a self-extending cellulose fiber having water absorption elongation of + 3% or more are continuously formed. That is, in one needle bed, a portion having a floating stitch and/or a tuck stitch formed of the cellulose fiber in which at least 2 stitches are continuously formed in the course direction (the warp direction of the knitted fabric), the wale direction (the weft direction of the knitted fabric), or the diagonal direction is preferable.
Here, the tuck stitch and the float stitch are stitches included in a knit stitch (knit loop), a tuck stitch and a float stitch which are 3 elements constituting a stitch of the knitted fabric. Tuck stitches are stitches that are not dropped off although yarn is supplied to the needles, and float stitches are stitches that are not supplied with yarn. The tuck stitches and the float stitches are present in the knitted fabric in a substantially straight line or curved to some extent. Compared with a loop structure having a large loop and a large bending point at the lower part of the loop, such as a loop, when water is absorbed and stretched from the stretched cellulose fiber, the loop structure is easy to stretch because the loop structure has a small bend and no bending point.
Therefore, by forming the structure of the knitted fabric with these tuck stitches or float stitches, the density and filling rate of the knitted fabric at the time of water absorption can be reduced, and a knitted fabric having no stuffiness feeling can be produced. In particular, by providing a portion in which at least 2 stitches of the floating stitches and/or the tuck stitches are continuously formed in the course direction, the wale direction, or the diagonal direction on one needle bed, the stuffiness reducing effect during sweating can be further improved. In the case of a double-sided circular knitting machine, 2 needle beds are provided for the dial and the cylinder, but the needle bed structure on only the dial side or only the cylinder side may be designed to have a portion in which at least 2 stitches are continuously formed in the course direction, the wale direction, or the diagonal direction, and only one needle bed may be designed in consideration of the design. In the case of a circular knitting machine of a single face, since there is only a needle cylinder, consideration in the design of a structure such as that of a circular knitting machine of a double face is not required, and it is sufficient to have a portion in which a floating stitch and/or a tuck stitch formed of a water-absorbent self-extending cellulose fiber is continuously formed with at least 2 stitches.
The combination of the tuck coil and the float coil may be arbitrary, and may be a continuous tuck coil, a continuous float coil, or a continuous coil in which the tuck coil and the float coil are combined. For example, the method may be any method such as forming floating coils and tuck coils in the course direction, or forming 2 wales (wales) of floating coils and floating coils continuously in the wale direction, or forming 2 wales of floating coils in the wale direction, and forming 2 wales of tuck coils continuously in the course direction. In the case of a so-called plain stitch in which long stitch loops are continuous in the wale direction, the effect of the present invention can be exhibited by continuously forming 2 stitches in an oblique direction by continuously performing 2 or more times by weaving plain portions by 2 feeds to form a stitch in which 1 course is completed by 2 feeds.
These are exemplified in fig. 1 to 6, and in fig. 1 to 6, [1], [2], and [3] represent knitting sequences and stitch row directions, and the knitting sequences are actually repeated to weave a fabric. The weft columns show the wale direction. In the figure, only 4 vertical lines are shown, and in reality, the tissue is repeated. Further, K denotes a loop (knit) structure, T denotes a tuck structure, and W denotes a float structure.
Fig. 1 and 2 show an example of weaving the float loops or the tuck loops in the continuous 2-stitch course, fig. 3, 4, and 5 show an example of continuously weaving the float loops or the tuck loops in the oblique direction, and fig. 6 shows an example of combining the float loops and the tuck loops. In addition, in the case where the tuck coil or the float coil is discontinuous, the effect of the present invention becomes small.
When the cellulose fiber mixed fabric of the present invention is a warp knitted fabric, it may be difficult to exhibit the characteristics of the water-absorbing self-elongation fiber depending on the structure. The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to prevent this phenomenon, and as a result, have found that a comfortable warp knit can be produced by a warp knit designing method. That is, in the knitted fabric containing the water-absorbent self-extending cellulose fibers, the cellulose fibers are formed into loops (looping), and the guide bar shogging is performed to form a 1-4-stitch structure, thereby achieving the object of the present invention.
The loop formation described here is a structure in which a needle loop (loop formation) is formed. In the spacer structure in which the needle loop is not formed, the knitted fabric is not deformed and restored during wearing, and a so-called slackening phenomenon occurs. In addition, in the case of a structure in which the stitch and the pad are overlapped, in the case where there is only 1 course pad, which is discontinuous, it is regarded as a stitch structure in the present invention, and a slackening phenomenon does not occur. However, if the gasket is formed by two or more continuous courses, the gasket tends to be loosened, which is not preferable. In addition, the effect of the present invention is not obtained when the same wale inner weaving seems to be a knitted stitch like 10/01 without forming the bar shog stitch. In the case of forming such a chaining structure, the following design is made: the knit stitch was not continued for 2 courses or more by adding 1 bar shogging stitch to 2 courses as in 10/01/12/21. Of course, the loops formed by the 2 nd knitting are also loop-forming structures.
Further, the shogging of the warp knitting structure obtained from the water-absorbent self-elongation cellulose fibers is required to be 1 to 4 stitches. The more the guide bar is moved, the more the moisture releasing effect is easily generated by the water absorption elongation of the cellulose fiber, but if the guide bar is moved by 5 stitches or more, the packing density of the cellulose fiber in the warp knitted fabric becomes too high, and the moisture releasing effect is rather lowered when absorbing water. Therefore, it is necessary to perform a warp knitting design such that the shogging of the water-absorbent elongated cellulose fiber is 1 to 4 stitches. If a warp knitted design is instantiated, then there are: in a tricot warp knit with 2 guide bars, the back face uses water-absorbent self-elongation cellulose fibers, the front face uses normal fibers, and the back face has the following structure: 10/12, 10/23, 10/34, 10/45, and 10/12/10/34/32/34, and the like, and a method of forming stitches in all courses, or a method of repeating the formation and the padding in a manner of 12/00, 12/10/22/10/12/00, and the like, and making the padding discontinuous.
In the case of a warp knitted fabric containing water-absorbing self-extending cellulose fibers in the present invention, when the cellulose fibers are pulled out from the warp knitted fabric and the water absorption elongation (dimensional change rate upon water absorption) of the cellulose fibers is measured, it is often difficult to remove fibers of the 10/12 texture on the back surface, such as a warp pile-warp flat texture. Accordingly, the present inventors have studied the dimensions in place of the water absorption elongation and found that the comfort in wearing can be obtained by setting the density reduction rate of the knitted fabric within a predetermined range.
In particular, it has been found that when the density reduction rate of the knitted fabric due to a small amount of moisture has a correlation with wearing comfort, and when a moisture amount of 50% by weight of the knitted fabric is added to the knitted fabric, the density reduction rate of the knitted fabric is 5 to 40%, so that air can easily flow into and out of clothes, and further, the moisture absorption and release properties of cellulose fibers can be sufficiently exhibited by the air flow, and the clothes do not have a high humidity therein. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a density decreasing rate of 5 to 40%, preferably 10 to 30%, in the water absorption. When the density reduction rate of the knitted fabric is less than 5%, the knitted fabric feels stuffy feeling when worn and is uncomfortable with sweat. If the density reduction rate of the knitted fabric is more than 40%, the shape of the garment is excessively changed, the wearing feeling is impaired, and the appearance is also not good, which is not preferable.
The warp knitted fabric of the cellulose blend fabric of the present invention preferably contains 10% or more of water-absorbing self-stretching cellulose fibers. As a method of mixing the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber and the plain fiber, there is a method of warping and interlacing the plain fiber and the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber on different beams, or a method of twisting the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber and the plain fiber, composite false twisting, warp-weft interlacing, or the like to form a composite yarn, and warping the composite yarn on a beam. The warp knitted fabric can be produced by a single or double tricot machine such as a tricot machine and a raschel (raschel) warp knitting machine. The weave may be any weave such as a warp plain weave, a warp pile-warp plain weave, a satin weave, a mesh weave, a three-dimensional knitted fabric having a connecting yarn inside a warp knitted fabric, which is produced using 1 guide bar or more.
The method for dyeing and finishing a fabric containing water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers of the present invention can use a general dyeing and finishing step. As the dyeing machine to be used, when the cellulose fibers are subjected to alkali treatment in a fiber state, a cone dyeing machine or a hank dyeing machine can be used, and in the processing of alkali treatment in a fabric state, any dyeing machine such as a liquid flow dyeing machine or a capstan dyeing machine can be used. Further, a continuous alkali treatment machine such as a mercerizing machine capable of continuously treating the fabric non-intermittently may be used. In this case, the processing conditions may be set to the conditions of the present invention. The fabric after the alkali treatment is preferably dyed under dyeing conditions suitable for the fiber material. The processing in the knitted fabric state may be performed by any of a step of pre-shaping the raw fabric at 150 to 190 ℃ by a pin tenter or the like, followed by refining, alkali treatment, dyeing, finishing and shaping, a step of pre-shaping the raw fabric at 150 to 190 ℃ by a pin tenter or the like, followed by dyeing, finishing and shaping, and the like. Finishing and shaping are carried out at the temperature of 150-190 ℃, and finishing is carried out according to the condition that the cellulose fibers which absorb water and stretch after finishing and shaping do not wrinkle or protrude. Further, a method of drying the fabric before finishing and setting to set the final density is preferable. Further, a softening agent and a water absorbing agent can be added as a finishing agent, and the sweat absorption can be improved by adding a water absorbing agent, so that this is preferable. The fiber resin such as the water-absorbing agent may be added during dyeing.
Next, the structures of the water-absorbing self-shrinkable cellulose fiber and the fabric of the present invention using the same will be described.
The water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fiber has a water-absorbing elongation of-2% or less. The cellulose fiber can be obtained by forming a twisted yarn having a twist multiplier of 8200 to 35000 so that the water absorption elongation of the cellulose fiber is-2% or less.
As a result of intensive studies including a wearing test and the like on a fabric structure in which the object of the present invention is achieved by using the cellulose fibers, the following results are obtained: when the fabric is made into a circular knitted fabric with 2-3 layers, one outer layer or middle layer of the circular knitted fabric with 2-3 layers uses fibers which can absorb sweat and shrink when sweat is produced, such as sports, and the other outer layer uses fibers which shrink little when sweat is absorbed, the circular knitted fabric is flat when drying, but the fibers of one outer layer shrink when sweat is absorbed, and the fiber of the other outer layer is fiber which shrinks little, so that a convex part is formed protrusively, and the circular knitted fabric is in a structure which is recovered to a flat state when drying after sweat is absorbed, and the circular knitted fabric is comfortable when sweat is produced by sewing the side capable of forming the convex part as a skin side. Various studies have been made to achieve this function, and as a result, it has been found that the function can be achieved by a specific knitted fabric structure and material.
That is, in order to exhibit the effect of the present invention, in the 2-layer circular knitted fabric in which the separated portion and the non-separated portion are repeatedly formed, it is preferable that the 2-layer circular knitted fabric is one in which one outer layer contains water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers, the other outer layer is composed of non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers, and the non-separated portion in the course direction of the stitches is composed of non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers. Here, the non-water-shrinkable fibers are fibers having a water-absorption elongation of more than-2%, and examples thereof include the above-mentioned ordinary fibers and water-absorbent self-elongation fibers. Fig. 7 and 8 show cross-sectional views of such circular knitted fabric.
FIG. 7 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the circular knit fabric when dry, and FIG. 8 when sweat is absorbed. The repeated separating section 21 and the non-separating section 22 form a circular knitted fabric, one outer layer (a) containing water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers and the other outer layer (B) being composed of non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers. Although the fabric surface is flat when dried (fig. 7), the water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers constituting the component (a) shrink when absorbing sweat (fig. 8), and the fibers constituting the other outer layer (B) of the separation section 21 protrude to form a convex section.
Various textures and structures that can be produced by the circular knitting machine can be selected as long as the separated portions and the non-separated portions are repeated regularly or irregularly. In the circular knitted fabric of the present configuration, unlike a three-dimensional knitted fabric of another configuration described later, the range of the stitch course ratio (a)/(B) of the two outer layers is not particularly limited, but it is preferable that (a)/(B) is about 1 in order to keep the surface of the fabric flat during drying.
Further, as a 3-layer circular knitted fabric which can exhibit the effects of the present invention, a 3-layer circular knitted fabric in which a separation portion and a non-separation portion are repeated is preferably a 3-layer circular knitted fabric in which one outer layer and/or an intermediate layer contains water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers, the other outer layer is composed of non-water-absorbing shrinking fibers, and the non-separation portion in the course direction of stitches is composed of non-water-absorbing shrinking fibers.
The shape of the partially separated portions of the multilayer circular knitted fabric of 2 to 3 layers of the present invention is any shape such as a dot having an area, such as a circle, an ellipse, a square, a diamond, or a star, and the arrangement is any shape such as a checkerboard, a raised shape to the upper right, or an irregular shape. If the size of the separating portion is too small or too large, the uneven effect of the fabric is reduced during sweating. In the case of a dot shape having an area such as a circle or a square, both the major axis and the minor axis are preferably 2 to 15mm, and particularly preferably 3 to 12mm. In the case of a continuous shape having a constant width, the width is preferably 2 to 15mm, and particularly preferably 3 to 12mm.
When the total area of the separated parts forming the projections during sweat absorption is too small or too large, the feeling of stickiness is felt during sweat generation. Therefore, the total area of the areas of the convex portions on the side where the convex portions are formed during sweat absorption is preferably 20 to 90% of the surface of the fabric during drying. More preferably 30 to 80%, particularly preferably 35 to 75%, and in this case, comfortable clothes having no sticky feeling during sweating can be produced.
The separation part in the 2-3-layer circular knitted fabric of the present invention has an arbitrary shape as described above. It is necessary to form the non-separating portion so as to surround the separating portion and repeatedly form the separating portion and the non-separating portion.
Fig. 9 shows an example of the structure of the separated portion and the non-separated portion of the circular knitted fabric. The non-split portion in the wale direction (circular knitted fabric warp direction) is not necessarily continuous linearly, but the non-split portion in the course direction (circular knitted fabric weft direction) is designed to be continuous linearly and is composed of non-shrinkable fibers. That is, although the non-separating portion in the wale direction may contain water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers, the non-separating portion in the course direction is composed of only non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers. The width of the non-separating portion in the wale direction is not particularly limited. The width of the non-separating portion in the course direction is preferably 1 to 15mm because the viscosity-reducing effect during sweating is small if it is too narrow or too wide. More preferably 2 to 12mm, particularly preferably 3 to 10mm, as long as the object of the present invention can be sufficiently achieved, stickiness during sweat absorption can be suppressed, and the cost-effective mixing ratio of cellulose fibers having a twist factor of 8200 to 35000 can be reduced, thereby reducing the cost of the circular knitted fabric. The width of the non-separating portion is the width of the smallest non-separating portion in the course direction.
As an example of a specific method for producing the 2-layer circular knitted fabric of the present invention, in the case of using a double-jersey circular knitting machine, there is a method in which a plain stitch is used for one outer layer, and a plain stitch having a connecting portion of the 2 layers of the front and back layers per several wales is woven for the other outer layer, and the connecting portion is formed into a loop formation or a tuck stitch. When weaving, one outer layer forms a structure containing water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers. Since the non-separating portion is partially provided in these structures as a connecting portion of the two outer layers, non-absorbent shrinkable fabric is used in every several courses, and in the case of a double-face circular knitting machine, it is necessary that the dial, the needle cylinder, together form a loop (knit), which is connected to form the non-separating portion. This makes it possible to form the separated portions and the non-separated portions repeatedly in the course direction and the wale direction, and to form dot-shaped projections having a circular or square shape and an area during sweat absorption.
As an example of a specific method for producing a 3-layer circular knitted fabric of the present invention, in the case of using a double-sided circular knitting machine, there are a method in which a surface layer and an inner layer are formed into a plain stitch, a middle layer is formed into a float, 3 layers are woven every several wales, and any of such fibers or all of the yarns are connected by forming loops or tucks together with a dial or a needle cylinder, and a method in which an outer layer and a middle layer are integrated by a plating stitch in a plain stitch of one outer layer, an outer layer of the other side is formed into a plain stitch, and any of the fibers constituting these stitches are connected by forming loops or tucks. In addition, there is a method in which the intermediate layer is formed into a float stitch to form a plated stitch, and the water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fiber is arranged in the outer layer and the intermediate layer on the other side. In the case of circular knitting, if several courses are joined by forming loops with a dial and a needle cylinder together with a non-absorbent shrinkable fabric every several courses, non-separated portions can be formed in the course direction and the wale direction, and dot-like projections having a circular or square area can be formed during sweat absorption.
The water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fiber is twisted in a mode that the twist coefficient is 8200-35000. The cellulose fiber is twisted at a twist factor of 8200-35000, and the fiber can exhibit a shrinking function during sweat absorption. If the twist multiplier is less than 8200, the function intended by the present invention cannot be exerted, which is not preferable. If the twist multiplier is larger than 35000, it is difficult to manufacture a circular knitted fabric and the cost becomes high, which is not preferable. Therefore, the twist multiplier is preferably set to 8200 to 35000, preferably 11000 to 30000.
In the present invention, it is preferable to blend the water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fiber in an amount of 5% by weight or more based on the total weight of the multilayered circular knitted fabric. If the amount is less than 5 wt%, the circular knitted fabric of the present invention is not preferable because only a slight convex portion is formed during sweat absorption, which makes it difficult to achieve the object. When the mixing ratio is more than 50 wt%, the circular knitted fabric shrinks greatly in the absorption of sweat, and the clothes size changes, which is not preferable. The method of mixing the water-absorbing self-shrinkable cellulose fiber is arbitrary, and a method of arranging the fiber and a method of forming a twisted yarn with a general fiber can be performed.
Since the total area of the portions where the convex portions are formed during sweat absorption is too small or too large, and a sticky feeling is generated during sweat absorption, the total area of the areas of the convex portions on the side where the convex portions are formed during sweat absorption is preferably 20 to 90% of the surface of the fabric during drying. More preferably 30 to 80%, particularly preferably 35 to 75%, so that the garment is comfortable without sticky feeling during sweating.
The density of the knitted fabric of the multilayer circular knitted fabric with 2-3 layers can be set at will.
The method for dyeing and finishing a circular knitted fabric having 2 to 3 layers of the present invention can use a general dyeing and finishing process, and the dyeing conditions are matched with the fiber material to be used. Further, in order to improve the water absorption property, it is preferable to use a water absorbing agent, and examples of the dyeing finishing step may be carried out by an arbitrary dyeing finishing step, for example, a method of refining and dyeing the raw fabric in a dyeing machine, then carrying out finishing treatment such as water absorption treatment, and carrying out finishing and setting, a method of carrying out wet relaxation treatment, dyeing after presetting, and carrying out final setting simultaneously with the finishing treatment, and the like.
In addition to the above, fig. 10 and 11 show another preferred embodiment, which is a three-dimensional structure fabric partially separated by using water-absorbent self-shrinking cellulose fibers and having an air layer between both outer layers.
Fig. 10 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the three-dimensional knitted fabric when dry and fig. 11 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the three-dimensional knitted fabric when sweat is absorbed. The knitted fabric is formed by repeating the separated part 21 and the non-separated part 22, one outer layer (C) contains water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers, and the other outer layer (D) is composed of non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers. Unlike the above-described structure, the fabric surface has a convex portion at the time of drying (fig. 10). This is obtained by weaving in such a manner that the number of courses of the two outer layers satisfies (C) > (D). Since the fabric surface is provided with the convex portions at the time of drying, the thickness of the fabric is increased and an air layer is present, and therefore the fabric is warm, and the water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers constituting (C) at the time of sweat absorption (fig. 11) shrink, the convex portions in the separation portion 21 become small, and the thickness of the fabric and the air layer are reduced, and therefore the heat radiation property is enhanced. When the sheet is dried after absorbing sweat, the projections are restored to the original thickness.
That is, a comfortable fabric which is warm in a non-perspiration state, emits heat during perspiration, does not sweat excessively, and is less likely to deteriorate in athletic performance is obtained.
Specifically, the object of the present invention can be achieved by a three-dimensional circular knitted fabric having a three-dimensional structure, which is formed by repeating a separation portion and a non-separation portion, and which has: the outer layer (C) on one side of the separating part contains water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers, the outer layer (D) on the other side contains non-water-absorbing shrinking fibers, and the number of courses of the two outer layers satisfies (C) > (D). The three-dimensional structure fabric of the present invention has a structure in which the outer layer (C) on one side, which apparently constitutes the separation portion, protrudes to form a convex portion, and further has a structure in which the separation portion and the non-separation portion connecting the two outer layers are regularly or irregularly repeated. These structures may be selected from various structures and structures that can be produced by a circular knitting machine, and any structure may be used as long as the outer layer containing water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers shrinks during sweat absorption, and the density is reduced, and the protrusions are reduced (the thickness of the fabric is reduced).
In such a three-dimensional fabric, the shape of the partially separated portions may be any shape such as an oval shape, a square shape, a diamond shape, a star shape, and a dot shape having an area, in addition to a circle, and the arrangement may be any shape such as a checkerboard shape, a rising shape to the upper right, or an irregular shape. The size of the separating portion is too small or too large, and the effect of reducing the projections during sweating is small. In the case of a dot shape having an area such as a circle or a square, both the major axis and the minor axis are preferably 2 to 15mm, and particularly preferably 3 to 12mm. In the case of a continuous shape having a constant width, the width is preferably 2 to 15mm, and particularly preferably 3 to 12mm.
Further, if the total area of the separating portion in the three-dimensional structure fabric is too small, the thickness reducing effect at the time of sweating is small, and therefore, it is preferable that 20% or more of the surface of the circular knitted fabric is used. More preferably 30% or more, and particularly preferably 40% or more, so that the thickness reducing effect during sweating can be increased, the amount of heat release can be increased, and the sweat suppressing effect can be expected, and comfortable clothing can be obtained.
The separation section in the three-dimensional fabric of the present invention has any shape as described above. It is necessary to form the non-separating portion so as to surround the separating portion and repeatedly form the separating portion and the non-separating portion. The non-separating portion may be composed of any of the fibers contained in the separating portion alone, may be interwoven with each other, or may be composed of a yarn different from that of the separating portion. For example, the non-separating portion in the wale direction may contain water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers, and the non-separating portion in the course direction may be composed of only non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers. The weave structure may be a interlock structure, a circular interlock structure, or the like, and any structure may be used as long as it is a structure woven using both needle beds of a circular knitting machine, that is, a needle cylinder and a dial. In addition, the non-separating section contains a large amount of non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers, and the blend ratio of the cellulose fibers can be reduced as the three-dimensional structure fabric, so that a knitted fabric excellent in cost and fastness can be obtained.
In the three-dimensional fabric of the present invention, the ratio of the number of courses of (C) to (D), (C)/(D), is preferably 1.1 to 5.0, and more preferably 2.0 to 4.0. If the ratio of the number of courses is 1.1 or more, the convex portions are likely to appear in a normal state where sweat is not absorbed, and the effect of the thickness reduction of the convex portions at the time of sweat absorption can be sufficiently exhibited. Further, if the ratio of the number of courses is 5.0 or less, it is easy to form a beautiful convex portion in a normal state, and the effect of reducing the convex portion is also remarkable at the time of sweat absorption, and further, it is preferable in terms of productivity. In the case where the number of outer layer coil courses in the separating section is not fixed between the coil rows, the coil row having the largest number of coil rows is defined as the number of coil rows. Further, the number of courses is measured only for the loop formation loops, and the tuck loops and the float loops are not calculated in the number of courses. However, the calculation is performed using the tuck coil and the float coil even when the sizes of the loop formation coils of the two outer layers are substantially the same, and the calculation is performed by converting the sizes of the loop formation coils of the two outer layers into the same size when the sizes of the loop formation coils of the two outer layers are different. For example, in the case where the size of the loop of the one side outer layer (C) is half the size of the other side outer layer (D), the (C) × 2 is treated as (C) in the calculation. The size of the loop can be determined by the length of the knitted-in portion constituting the separation portion.
In the three-dimensional fabric of the present invention, the outer layer (C) on the side constituting the separation section may contain water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers, and may be interlaced with non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers. As the method of interlacing, a method of alternately weaving water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers and non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers, a method of plating knitting with non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers, or the like can be used, and the mixing ratio of the water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers is preferably 15 wt% or more. If the amount is less than 15% by weight, the thickness of the projections decreases during sweat absorption, which is not preferable. Particularly preferred is a mixing ratio of 20% by weight or more.
On the other hand, the other outer layer (D) constituting the separation section is mainly composed of non-water-absorbent shrinkable fibers, but may contain a small amount of water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers. The mixing ratio of the water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fibers is preferably less than 5% by weight, and in the case of a mixing ratio of 5% by weight or more, the effect of reducing the protrusions during sweat absorption is reduced, which is not preferable. Preferably all of the non-water-shrinkable fibers alone.
Further, the mixing ratio of the cellulose fiber having a twist multiplier of 8200 to 35000 to the entire three-dimensional structure fabric is preferably 5 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 10 to 30% by weight. If the amount is less than 5% by weight, the amount of the convex portions of the circular knitted fabric in the present invention decreases slightly during sweating, and if the amount is more than 50% by weight, the shrinkage of the entire three-dimensional fabric becomes large during sweat absorption, which is not preferable because the size of the clothes changes. The method for mixing the cellulose fibers having a twist multiplier of 8200 to 35000 is optional, and can be carried out by a method of arranging fibers, a method of producing a composite yarn from a non-shrinkable yarn, or the like.
The three-dimensional fabric of the present invention can be produced by a circular knitting machine, and the density of the circular knitted fabric can be set arbitrarily.
As an example of a specific method for producing a three-dimensional fabric according to the present invention, a double-face circular knitting machine is used, and a structure in which the number of courses of the split portion of the needle cylinder is larger than the number of courses of the dial is produced by partially using water-absorbing self-shrinking cellulose fibers in the plain stitch portion of the needle cylinder. In this case, the water-absorbent self-shrinkable cellulose fiber may be used alone, or may be formed into a plated weave with a common fiber such as polyester or nylon. Further, a non-separating portion is required between the separating portion and the separating portion. By designing the non-separating portion, the separating portion and the non-separating portion are formed repeatedly in the course direction and the wale direction, and the dot-like convex portion having an area can be formed on the three-dimensional fabric, so that the thickness of the convex portion during sweat absorption can be reduced, and the heat release effect can be improved.
In the dyeing and finishing of the three-dimensional structure fabric of the present invention, a general dyeing and finishing step can be used. The dyeing conditions are adjusted to the fiber material to be used, and the dyeing machine to be used may be any dyeing machine such as a liquid flow dyeing machine or a winch dyeing machine. In addition, in order to improve water absorption, a water absorbing agent is preferably used. As examples of the dyeing finishing step, any dyeing finishing step may be performed, for example, a method of putting the raw fabric into a dyeing machine, refining and dyeing the raw fabric, and then finishing and setting the raw fabric together with a processing treatment such as a water absorbing treatment, a method of performing wet relaxation treatment, dyeing after presetting, and finishing and setting the raw fabric together with the processing treatment, and the like.
Examples
The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples. Needless to say, the present invention is not limited thereto.
The evaluation in the examples was measured by the following method.
(1) Wearing comfort
A sweater was sewn from the fabric of example, and was sweated, wearing comfort was evaluated by the sense of 10 subjects, and the average value was taken as wearing comfort.
Practically no problem is the following items of 2 or more.
5: even if sweating, the clothes do not have sticky feeling and stuffy feeling, and are very comfortable.
4: it does not feel sticky or stuffy when sweating.
3: when sweating, the garment is slightly tacky, but comfortable.
2: when sweating, the skin has a certain sticky and stuffy feeling.
1: when sweating, it is sticky, hot and uncomfortable.
(2) Twist factor
The twist factor of the cellulose fiber was determined by the following equation.
Twist multiplier (titer)0.5X number of twists (unit: number of twists/m)
(3) Circular knitted fabric manufacturability
In the production of circular knitted fabrics, the weavability of the twisted cellulose fibers was evaluated.
The following items of 3 or more are available for route production, and the higher the value, the more preferable.
5: circular knitted fabrics can be produced without problems.
4: occasionally, nubs and the like appear, but acceptable products can be produced.
3: although the problem of yarn breakage or the like slightly occurred, a satisfactory product could be produced.
2: the circular knitted fabric can be manufactured with the occurrence of yarn breakage and the like, but the circular knitted fabric is not qualified.
1: it is difficult to manufacture circular knitted fabrics due to the occurrence of slub, yarn breakage, etc.
(4) Rate of decrease in density of knitted fabric
The density (course/inch × wale/inch) of the dried sample was measured at 20 ℃ and 65% in an atmosphere (E). Next, the sample was allowed to absorb 50% of the moisture of the weight of the warp knitted fabric, and the density (course/inch × wale/inch) (F) at the time of water absorption was measured, and the rate of decrease in density of the knitted fabric was determined by the following formula (2). In addition, in the case where (F) < (E), the density is increased, it is represented by- (minus).
Density decrease rate of knitted fabric ((F-E)/E) × 100(2)
(5) Convex part formability during drying
The three-dimensional-structure fabric obtained in examples was subjected to an appearance evaluation of the outer layer convex portion formability in a dry state.
The convex portion is formed as long as the following term is 2 or more, and the higher the numerical value is, the thicker the convex portion is.
5: the protrusions are clearly protruding.
4: a rather clear protrusion is formed.
3: the formation of the convex portion can be easily judged.
2: the convex portions are slightly formed.
1: the projections were not formed and were substantially flat.
(6) Thickness reduction of convex part during sweat absorption
The three-dimensional-structure fabric obtained in the examples was allowed to absorb 100 wt% of water, and the thickness-reducing property of the convex portions of the outer layer at the time of water absorption was evaluated for appearance.
As long as the following term is 2 or more, the thickness reducing property of the convex portion can be confirmed, and the effect of the present invention can be confirmed as the decrease becomes larger as the numerical value becomes higher.
5: the knitted fabric is substantially flat.
4: the thickness of the projections is reduced to such an extent that the projections are slightly left.
3: it was judged that the thickness of the convex portion was reduced.
2: the thickness of the convex portion is slightly reduced, but cannot be clearly judged.
1: the decrease in the thickness of the convex portion is hardly judged.
[ example 1]
Circular rib knitting was performed using a circular knitting machine of gauge 28, which was configured to weave in an alternating pattern of regular fibers and cellulose fibers. In this weaving, 2-time heating false twist yarn of polyester fiber 84dt/36f was used as a plain fiber, and 84dt/45f cuprammonium rayon fiber was used as a cellulose fiber. In this case, the copper ammonia fibers used were ordinary copper ammonia fibers which were not subjected to alkali treatment.
The woven greige cloth was put into a liquid flow dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then alkali-treated with sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 60g/L at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes. Next, only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. Since the dyed knitted fabric was uneven, it was dried using a short-loop dryer, stretched to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed using a pin tenter, and set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds. In addition, in this dyeing, dyeing is performed using a water absorbing agent in the bath.
The resulting knitted fabric was drawn out of the cuprammonium fibers, and the water absorption elongation was measured, resulting in + 5.8%. The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to a comfort wearing test during perspiration during exercise. The results of the wear test are shown in table 1.
[ examples 2 to 8]
Cellulose fibers having different water absorption elongations were produced by changing the alkali treatment conditions and the type of cellulose fibers in example 1. The wearing comfort of the knitted fabric using the fibers was evaluated, and the results are shown in table 1.
[ example 9]
The polyester fiber 56dt/24f base yarn as the plain fiber of the warp, the polyester fiber 56dt/24f base yarn as the plain fiber of the weft and the rayon fiber 67dt/24f were alternately beaten up by 2, and an 3/1 satin weave was woven.
The woven greige cloth was put into a jet dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then alkali-treated with sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 50g/L at 50 ℃ for 25 minutes. Next, only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. Since the dyed fabric became uneven, it was dried using a short-loop dryer, stretched to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed using a pin tenter, and finished at 180 ℃ for 60 seconds. In addition, a water absorbent is used in the finishing setting.
The rayon fiber of the resultant fabric was drawn out, and the water absorption elongation was measured, resulting in + 9.3%.
In addition, the obtained fabric was subjected to a wearing comfort test during perspiration during exercise. The results of the wear test are shown in table 1.
[ example 10]
The interlock weave was woven using a cuprammonium spun yarn 1/64Nm (wool count) with a circular knitting machine of gauge 22. The copper ammonia fiber spun yarn used was a normal copper ammonia fiber spun yarn which was not subjected to alkali treatment, and the woven fabric was fed into a flow dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then subjected to alkali treatment with sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 60g/L at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes. Then, the cuprammonium rayon spun yarn is dyed by using a reactive dye. Drying was carried out using a short-loop dryer, and then stretched with a pin tenter to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed, and setting was carried out at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds. In addition, a water absorbent is used in the finishing setting.
The cuprammonium fiber spun yarn of the knitted fabric obtained was pulled out, and the water absorption elongation was measured, and it was found to be + 4.7%.
The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to a comfort wearing test during perspiration during exercise. The results of the wear test are shown in table 1.
[ example 11]
A composite yarn was prepared by trial-producing a cuprammonium fiber 56dt/30f and a polyester W-type cross-section yarn 56dt/30f by subjecting the mixture to 80/m interlacing with an スピンドル interlacing nozzle (インタ - レ - スノズル) MK-2 manufactured by Apollo corporation, and then subjecting the mixture to 1 heat false twisting using a nip belt type false twister (manufactured by TMT マシナリ) マツハ 33H under conditions of a working speed of 300 m/min, a primary heater temperature of 200 ℃, a twist angle of 95 ℃ and a draw ratio of 0.984. The crimp elongation of the composite yarn was 12.1%. The composite yarn and the ordinary yarn of polyester fiber 84dt/36f were alternately arranged and woven into a circular rib knitted fabric 2 times by using a circular knitting machine having a machine number of 28, and then dyed under the following conditions. The composite yarn was drawn out from the fabric, and the water absorption elongation was measured, and the result was + 5.3%.
The woven greige cloth was put into a liquid flow dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then alkali-treated with sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 60g/L at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes. Next, only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. Since the dyed knitted fabric was convex-concave, it was dried using a short-loop dryer, stretched to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed using a pin tenter, and set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds.
The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to a comfort wearing test during perspiration during exercise. The results of the wear test are shown in table 1.
[ example 12]
A nylon 66 highly oriented undrawn yarn 70dt/34f was false-twisted by an ATF-21 disc friction (disk friction) type false twister (manufactured by TMT マシナリ Co., Ltd.) at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a 1 st heater temperature of 200 ℃, a number of polyurethane discs of 5, and a draw ratio of 1.260. The obtained 1-time heated false twisted yarn and the cuprammonium rayon 56dt/30f were false twisted, and 80 pieces/m of yarn were entangled with each other by a interlacing jet P-142 manufactured by ヘバライン to obtain a composite yarn. The crimp elongation of the composite yarn was 71.8%. This composite yarn and a 2-time heating false twist yarn of a polyester fiber of 84dt/36f plain fiber were alternately arranged by using a circular knitting machine of type 28 to weave a circular rib knitted fabric, which was then dyed under the following conditions. The composite yarn was drawn out from the fabric, and the water absorption elongation was measured, and the result was + 4.6%.
The woven greige cloth was put into a liquid flow dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then alkali-treated with sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 50g/L at 40 ℃ for 20 minutes. Subsequently, only the nylon side was dyed at 98 ℃. Since the dyed knitted fabric was convex-concave, it was dried using a short-loop dryer, stretched to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed using a pin tenter, and set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds.
The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to a comfort wearing test during perspiration during exercise. The results of the wear test are shown in table 1.
[ example 13]
When the structure of fig. 12 was woven by using a single-face circular knitting machine of machine number 28, 1 was a plain fiber and 2 was a cellulose fiber, and 3 courses were woven for 1, and then 3 courses were woven for 2. In this weaving, 2-time heating false twist yarn of 167dt/f polyester fiber was used as a plain fiber, and 84dt/45f cuprammonium fiber was used as a cellulose fiber. In this case, the copper ammonia fibers used were ordinary copper ammonia fibers which were not subjected to alkali treatment.
The woven greige cloth was put into a liquid flow dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then alkali-treated with sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 50g/L at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes. Next, only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. Since the dyed knitted fabric was convex-concave, it was dried using a short-loop dryer, stretched to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed using a pin tenter, and set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds. In addition, the water absorbent is used while dyeing in a liquid flow dyeing machine. The resulting knitted fabric has a structure in which floating stitches are continuously formed in the course direction.
The resulting knitted fabric was drawn out of the cuprammonium fibers, and the water absorption elongation was measured, and found to be + 5.7%.
The resulting knitted fabric was sewn into a T-shirt and subjected to a wearing test. The wearing results are shown in table 2.
[ examples 14 to 17]
In example 13, a knitted fabric was produced by changing the thickness of polyester yarn or the yarn arrangement during weaving, changing the mixing ratio of cellulose fibers, and further changing the number of continuous floating stitches of the cellulose fibers. The obtained knitted fabric was evaluated for wearing comfort, and the results are shown in table 2.
[ example 18]
When the structure of fig. 13 is woven by using a double-faced circular knitting machine of machine number 22, the arrangement is such that 1 is a normal fiber, 2, 3 are composite yarns containing cellulose fiber, the weaving 1-2 is repeated 4 times, and then the weaving 1, 3 is repeated 4 times, and a knitted fabric is produced by repeating the above operations. In this weaving, a grey fabric was woven by using a 2-time heating false twist yarn of 84dt/72f polyester fiber as a plain fiber, and a composite yarn of ordinary cuprammonium fiber 56dt/30f and polyester W-type cross-section yarn 56dt/30f, which were not subjected to alkali treatment, as a composite yarn containing a cellulose fiber, and simultaneously false twisting them at 180 ℃. The woven greige cloth was put into a liquid flow dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then alkali-treated with sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 50g/L at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes. Next, only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. Since the dyed knitted fabric was convex-concave, it was dried using a short-loop dryer, stretched to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed using a pin tenter, and set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds. In addition, the water absorbent is used while dyeing in a liquid flow dyeing machine. The resulting knitted fabric has a structure in which tuck stitches are continuously formed in the course direction.
The resulting knitted fabric was drawn out of the cuprammonium fibers, and the water absorption elongation was measured, and found to be + 5.7%.
The obtained knitted fabric was sewn into a T-shirt, and a wearing test was performed, and wearing results are shown in table 2.
[ example 19]
When a tricot warp knitting machine of machine number 28 was used to weave a warp pile-warp flat structure, a W-shaped cross-section yarn of polyester 56dt/30f was arranged as a plain fiber on the front surface, and a cuprammonium fiber 56dt/30f was arranged as a cellulose fiber on the back surface, and the weaving was performed by an all-in pass method in which yarns were arranged in all needles. In this case, the copper ammonia fibers used were ordinary copper ammonia fibers which were not subjected to alkali treatment.
The woven raw fabric was put into a liquid flow dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, drained, and then subjected to alkali treatment at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide having a concentration of 50 g/L. Subsequently, polyester fibers and cuprammonium fibers were dyed. Since the dyed knitted fabric was convex-concave, it was dried using a short-loop dryer, stretched to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric could be removed using a pin tenter, and set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds. In addition, the water absorbent is used while dyeing in a liquid flow dyeing machine.
The density reduction rate of the knitted fabric of the obtained warp knitted fabric was measured to find that it was 17.8%, and the cuprammonium fibers of the obtained knitted fabric were pulled out and the water absorption elongation was measured to find that it was + 5.8%.
Further, a T-shirt was sewn from the obtained knitted fabric and a wearing test was performed. The wearing results are shown in table 3.
[ examples 20 to 22]
In example 19, a warp knitted fabric was produced by changing the structure, the bar crossing amount of the cellulose fiber, the mixing ratio, and the loop formation. The wearing comfort of the knitted fabric using the warp knitted fabric was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 3.
[ example 23]
The weave of figure 14 was woven using a circular knitting machine of gauge 28. The yarn was false-twisted 2 times with polyester fiber (84 dt/36 f) as a plain fiber (1), and cuprammonium fiber (84 dt/45 f) having a twist multiplier of 18000 was used (2). The weaving was repeated 10 times for 1 to 2 times, and then the non-separated portion of R in FIG. 9 was woven so that the finished width was 4mm using 2 times of the heated false twist yarn of 56dt/24f polyester as the non-shrinkable yarn.
The woven greige goods were put into a jet dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, and then only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. Since the dyed fabric has a width and the knitted fabric is concave-convex, the fabric is tentered and set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds by a pin tenter until the convex portions are developed.
The resulting knitted fabric was sewn into a T-shirt, and a wearing comfort test was conducted during sweating while exercising.
Table 4 shows the results of the wear test.
Examples 24 to 27 and comparative example 2
In example 23, a knitted fabric was produced using the cellulose fibers having the twist multiplier changed as shown in table 4, and the width of the non-separated portion was changed, and these were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 4.
[ example 28]
The weave shown in FIG. 15 was woven by a circular knitting machine of gauge 28. In 1, 2-time heating false twist yarn of polyester fiber 84dt/36f was used as a plain fiber, and the plain stitch was mainly used, and a part of the yarn was connected to the cylinder side by tuck stitch. 2, 2 times of heating false twist yarn of polyester fiber of 56dt/24f and plating stitch of cuprammonium fiber 84dt/45f with a twist factor of 18000 are used as ordinary fibers. The above steps were repeated 10 times for 1 to 2 times, and then 2 times of the heat false twist yarn of 56dt/24f polyester fiber was used as a plain fiber, and the non-separated portion R in FIG. 10 was woven with a circular rib structure so that the finished width was 5 mm.
The woven greige goods were put into a jet dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, and then only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. Since the dyed fabric has a width and the knitted fabric is concave-convex, the fabric is tentered and set by a pin tenter at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds until the fabric is developed into convexes and concaves.
The resulting knitted fabric was sewn into a T-shirt, and a wearing comfort test was conducted during sweating while exercising.
Table 4 shows the results of the wear test.
[ example 29]
The weave shown in FIG. 16 was woven by a circular knitting machine of gauge 28. [1] The conventional fibers used in the methods of [2], [4], [5], [6] and [8] were polyester fibers of 84dt/36f and the conventional fibers used in the methods of [3], [7] were polyester fibers of 56dt/30f and polyamide fibers of 25000 and 56dt/24 f. These are adjusted by plating so that the surface of the knitted fabric becomes 56dt/24f polyester fiber, and the knitting is repeated 4 times [1] to [4], and then repeated 4 times [5] to [8 ]. The convex portion constituting the (C) portion was formed by the [3] [4] [7] [8] separating portion, the other outer (D) portion was formed by the [1] [2] [5] [6] separating portion, and weaving was performed so that the ratio of the coil row number (C)/(D) was 2.0 times.
The woven greige goods were put into a jet dyeing machine, refined at 80 ℃ for 20 minutes, and then only the ester side was dyed at 130 ℃. In addition, a water-absorbing processing agent is added during dyeing, and dyeing is performed while the knitted fabric is made to have water absorption. Since the dyed fabric had a width and the knitted fabric was concave-convex, it was dried by a short-loop dryer, then set at 170 ℃ for 60 seconds by a pin tenter with a width 10% wider than the width at the time of drying.
The resulting knitted fabric had a three-dimensional circular knitted fabric in which a convex portion appeared on the outer layer portion (C) woven on the cylinder side and the thickness of the convex portion was reduced by sweat absorption.
Table 5 shows the results of the performance test of the circular knit fabric having a three-dimensional structure.
[ examples 30 to 34]
In example 29, the ratio (C)/(D) of the number of courses of the two outer layers was varied depending on the number of weaves of [3] [4] [7] [8], and the production was carried out and evaluated. The results are shown in Table 5.
[ Table 1]
Test specimen Cellulose-based fiber Alkali concentration (g/L) Treatment temperature (. degree.C.) Treatment time (minutes) Elongation at Water absorption (%) Wearing comfort
Example 1 Copper ammonia fiber 60 30 20 5.8 4
Example 2 Copper ammonia fiber 40 30 20 5.4 4
Example 3 Copper ammonia fiber 20 30 20 3.8 2
Example 4 Copper ammonia fiber 80 30 20 6.7 4
Example 5 Copper ammonia fiber 60 20 20 5.6 4
Example 6 Copper ammonia fiber 20 20 20 3.7 2
Example 7 Copper ammonia fiber 60 30 5 4.2 3
Example 8 Copper ammonia fiber 20 20 5 3.2 2
Example 9 Artificial silk 50 50 25 9.3 5
Example 10 Copper ammonia fiber spun yarn 60 30 20 4.7 3
Example 11 Copper ammonia fiber 60 30 20 5.3 4
Example 12 Copper ammonia fiber 50 40 20 4.6 3
Comparative example 1 Copper ammonia fiber Untreated Untreated Untreated 1.9 1
TABLE 2
Test specimen Cellulose fiber Elongation at Water absorption (%) Mixing ratio of cellulose fiber (%) Number of successive tuck and float coils Wearing comfort
Example 13 Copper ammonia fiber 5.7 33 3 5
Example 14 Copper ammonia fiber 5.7 10 3 3
Example 15 Copper ammonia fiber 5.7 15 3 4
Example 16 Copper ammonia fiber 5.7 66 3 5
Example 17 Copper ammonia fiber 5.7 100 3 5
Example 18 Copper ammonia fiber 5.7 33 4 4
TABLE 3
Test specimen Organization and passing mode of front (middle) surface Organization and routing mode of back Cellulose fiber mixing ratio (%) Decrease ratio of Density (%) Wearing comfort
Example 19 10/23all-in 12/10all-in 43 17.8 5
Example 20 10/12all-in 23/10all-in 57 29.1 4
Example 21 10/12all-in 45/10all-in 67 38.9 3
Example 22 10/23all-in 12/00all-in 37 13.2 4
TABLE 4
TABLE 5
Industrial applicability
When the fabric of the present invention is used to produce a fabric, it is possible to produce a garment which is comfortable to wear and does not give a sticky feeling or a stuffy feeling when sweating, and a comfortable wearing feeling can be obtained for garments such as sweaters, undergarments, and coats.

Claims (3)

1. A cellulose fiber-blended fabric having a circular knitted structure which has a portion in which 2 or more stitches of a floating stitch and/or a tuck stitch formed of a water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber having a water-absorbent elongation of + 3% or more are continuously formed and which has a water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fiber content of 10% by weight or more.
2. A cellulose fiber blended fabric characterized by having a warp-knitted structure comprising water-absorbing self-stretching cellulose fibers having a water-absorbing elongation of + 3% or more, knitted loops, and a structure in which a guide bar is shogging by 1 to 4 stitches, wherein the density reduction rate of the knitted fabric upon water absorption is 5 to 40%, and the content of the water-absorbing self-stretching cellulose fibers is 10 wt% or more.
3. The cellulose fiber-blended fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water-absorbent self-extensible cellulose fibers are fibers which have been subjected to an immersion treatment in an alkali aqueous solution of 20g/L or more at 20 ℃ for 5 minutes or more.
HK09103434.9A 2006-01-26 2007-01-26 Cellulose fiber blended fabric HK1125423B (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (9)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2006017415 2006-01-26
JP017415/2006 2006-01-26
JP025532/2006 2006-02-02
JP2006025531 2006-02-02
JP2006025532 2006-02-02
JP025531/2006 2006-02-02
JP2006133736 2006-05-12
JP133736/2006 2006-05-12
PCT/JP2007/051227 WO2007086491A1 (en) 2006-01-26 2007-01-26 Cellulose fiber blended fabric

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HK1125423A1 HK1125423A1 (en) 2009-08-07
HK1125423B true HK1125423B (en) 2013-10-18

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