GB2423250A - Topical healthcare silicone composite powder - Google Patents

Abstract

A composite powder consisting of cured silicone particles having an average diameter of 0.1 to 200 micrometers which have immobilised on their surface an inorganic microfine powder, which is suitable for use in a cosmetic or healthcare composition. The microfine inorganic powder may be oxides of aluminium, titanium, iron, zinc, yttrium, cerium, manganese, calcium, or amorphous silica or mica. The composition may be used as an anti-wrinkle cream, facial care, foundation, eye shadow, blusher, face or body powder or other make up or body care product.

Description

1 2423250

TOPICAL COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

1] This invention relates to topical cosmetics composition and more particularly to topical cosmetic compositions which are intended to reduce the appearance of skin wrinkles and fine lines, especially on human skin. In particular, the invention relates to topical cosmetic compositions comprising silicon-based elastomer materials, especially certain types of silicone elastomer powder material.

2] The cosmetic industry has been looking and continues to look for ways to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on human skin in view of the trend and fashion to retain appearance of youth for longer. Many different solutions have been proposed over the years.

3] In Japanese patent application JP200I-1 14623 there is discussed a way to obtain a cosmetic composition having a wrinkle covering effect, longer lasting make-up properties, improved sebum adsorbing ability, better oil agent absorption retention and a nice feel to the touch. The solution which is proposed is a cosmetic composition comprising pulverised silicone elastomer spherical powder having an agglomerated particle diameter of from I to pm, which is obtained by pulverizing high- order agglomerate of silicone elastomer spherical powder having an average primary particle diameter of from 1 to 15 pm, whereby the pulverisation is achieved by a dry type crusher having a shear mechanism.

4] In Japanese patent application JPO9-315936, the same problem of obtaining a cosmetic composition which is excellent in wrinkle-hiding effect, good feeling to the touch and improved sustainability of make-up effect is addressed. Here the proposed solution is to include in the cosmetic composition a powder and a silicone paste prepared by kneading a silicone elastomer with a polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity from 6 tol 00 mm2/s at 25 C using e.g. a roll mill. The weight ratio of silicone elastomer/polydimethylsiloxane/powder is preferably 1-55/1-99/0.5-40. The silicone elastomer, which is in the form of a resin powder with an average primary particle size of from 0.1 to 2Opm, has three- dimensional crosslinked structure of silicone and has the properties of elastomer powder, and is incorporated in the cosmetic composition in an amount from 1 to 100 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of this cosmetic composition. The cosmetic compositions suggested in the specification include make-up cosmetics, hair cosmetics, basic cosmetics and liquid perfumes.

5] The silicone ingredients used in the cosmetic compositions of the prior art require complex, time consuming and costly processes for their preparation. There is a need to provide cosmetic compositions which use silicone ingredients which are more straightforward to make, and which still provide very good properties. There is also a need to provide the above-described benefits in conjunction with ease of manufacture by the formulators as well as simplified formulation processes, which do not require difficult processes and sophisticated equipment. The need for ease of manufacture is particularly important in relation to formulations containing pigments where it is expected to have a free flowing powder which blends in very smoothly.

6] It has now surprisingly been found that the above needs can be met by providing a cosmetic or healthcare composition that comprises a composite cured silicone powder as defined herein below. Accordingly the invention provides in a first aspect a cosmetic or healthcare composition comprising a composite cured silicone powder.

7] Composite cured silicone powder is herein used to mean powder which consists of the combination of (A) a cured silicone powder, preferably silicone elastomer or silicone resin, having an average particle diameter of 0.1 to 200 micrometers that has immobilized on its surface a microfine inorganic powder (B), such as an amorphous silica or amorphous mica micropowder, Al203, Ti02, Fe203, ZnO, CeO2, Y203 or Mn304, that has an average particle diameter not exceeding 1 micrometer, which is anchored or immobilised on the surface of the cured elastomer powder. These composite cured silicone powders are highly flowable and highly dispersible cured silicone powders that exhibits little tendency to aggregate or undergo blocking. The composite cured silicone powders are very easily introduced into a wide variety of cosmetic and healthcare compositions, such as skin care, sun care and colour cosmetic formulations, without requiring heavy processes or sophisticated equipment. This ease of introducing the composite powder is particularly important in formulations containing pigments as this free flowing powder is helping to blend all ingredients very smoothly together. Properties such as sebum absorption, wrinkle masking and absorption of certain oils are at least equivalent to the prior art formulations and in some cases certain properties have been improved such as the feel to touch of the composition during and after application.

8] Composite cured silicone powders are known and have been described for example in European patent EP647672 together with a process for making them and in JP3621 9/98.

9] The characteristic feature of the essential component, i.e. the composite cured silicone powder, for use in the compositions according to this invention consists of a cured silicone powder (A) upon which is deposited a microfine inorganic powder, such as A1203, T102, Fe203, ZnQ, CeO2, Y203 or Mn304, but preferably an amorphous silica or amorphous mica micropowder (B) on the surface. Component (A) of the invention must be a cured silicone powder with an average (number average) particle diameter of 0.1 to 200 micrometers. The reason for the limitation to this range is as follows: the microfine inorganic powder/amorphous silica micropowder (B) does not become satisfactorily anchored or immobilized on the surface of component (A) if it has an average particle diameter below 0.1 micrometer, while the final composite cured silicone powder has difficulty in being dispersed uniformly into cosmetics if component (A) has an average particle diameter in excess of 200 micrometers. The nature of component (A) is not critical and it may be a gel, rubber, or cured resin, with rubbers or elastomers being preferred. The shape of component (A) is also not critical and a spherical shape is preferred.

0] Component (B) of the composite cured silicone powder for use in the invention is a microfine inorganic powder, such as A1203, Ti02, Fe203, ZnO, CeO2, Y203 or Mn304, but preferably an amorphous silica or amorphous mica micropowder that has an average particle diameter not exceeding 1 micrometer. Component (B) will not be sufficiently covering the surface of cured silicone powder (A) where the average particle diameter of component (B) exceeds 1 micrometer. The shape of component (B) is not critical, but it is preferably spherical. Where the microfine inorganic powder is an amorphous silica micropowder, this component (B) may be selected from powders produced by dry-process, by electric arc and by wet-process. Fumed silica, which is prepared by a dry process, is particularly preferred as component (B).

(00111 The average particle diameter of the cured silicone powder (A) prepared above must be 0.1 to 200 micrometers, and is preferably 0.5 to 80 micrometers. The component (B) used in the invention must have an average particle diameter that does not exceed 1 micrometer, and preferably has an average particle diameter in the range of 0.001 to 0.1 micrometer. Preferably the silica micropowder has a surface silanol group density of at least 2 silanol groups per one nm2 (100 square angstroms).

(0012] The cured silicone powder (A) may be produced by cross-linking components (a) and (b), whereby (a) is an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 alkenyl groups in each molecule, preferably of the formula a* immediately below R R R1 R

I I I

Rl_itO_ i 0 SiOi- Ri RL Rm RJflR and (b) is an organohydrogenpolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule, preferably according to formula b* immediately below R( R R2 R

I I I

R2-itO- i 0 ijOi- R2 Rts R s R J R [0013] In formulae a* and b*, R is an alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, and isopropyl or an aryl group such as phenyl; Ri is a group R or an alkenyl group is exemplified by vinyl, allyl, propenyl, butenyl, pentenyl, hexenyl, and decenyl, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, most preferred a vinyl group; R2 is a hydrogen atom or a group R; m, n, s and t are all independently integers from 0 to 5000, preferably from 0 to 200, provided in formula a* at least 2 groups R2 are alkenyl and in formula b* at least two groups R2 are hydrogen atoms.

4] Compositions according to the invention may comprise in addition to the composite cured silicone powder component, a second composite cured silicone elastomer powder, a non-cured silicone elastomer powder, a powder such as a dry, particulate matter having a particle size of 0.02microns, which may be coloured or non-coloured (for example white).

5] In cosmetic and healthcare compositions, this composite cured silicone powder is present at levels from 0.1 to 98 wt.%, more preferably at ito 80 wt.% and most preferably 2 to 60 wt.% of the total weight of the composition. In addition, the compositions according to Sfl 5 the invention may comprise an aqueous phase at 0.1 to 99.9 wt.% and more preferably at 1 to 80 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.

6] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active ingredients or health care active ingredients such as an antiacne agents, anti-ageing agents, anticaries agents, antidandruff agents, antifungal agents, antimicrobial agents, antioxidants, antiperspirant agents, cosmetic biocides, deodorising agents, external analgesics, oral care agents, oral care drugs, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, skin bleaching agents, skin protectants, essential oils, insect repellents, sunscreen agents, UV light absorbing agents, solar filters, auto-tanning agents, pigments, moisturisers, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-wrinkle agents, enzymes, optical brighteners and fabric softening agents.

7] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more other components such as antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, silicones, waxes, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners.

8] Examples of suitable silicone ingredients which may be added to the compositions according to the invention include low molecular weight cyclic and linear siloxanes. These are generally volatile materials and are known in the cosmetic industry under The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) names such as CYCLOMETHICONE and DIMETHICONE. Reference may be had to the CTFA's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Some representative examples of the cyclic siloxanes are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane often referred to as D4, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane often referred to as D5, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane often referred to as D6. These cyclic siloxanes generally have a degree of polymerization (DP) of 3-7. Some representative examples of low molecular weight linear siloxanes are hexamethyldisiloxane (CH3)3SiOSi(CH3)3, alkylmethylsiloxanes such as 3hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane, as well as a number of other linear low molecular weight silicone polymer fluids known as Dimethicone with a degree of polymerisation ranging from 3 tol 0.

9] Silicone gums can also be used as optional ingredients. Polydiorganosiloxane gums are known in the art and are available commercially. They consist of generally insoluble polydiorganosiloxanes having a viscosity in excess of 1,000,000 mm2/s at 25 C, preferably greater than 5,000,000 mm2/s at 25 C. These silicone gums are typically sold as compositions already dispersed in a suitable solvent to facilitate their handling. Ultra-high viscosity silicones can also be included as optional ingredients. These ultra-high viscosity silicones typically have a kinematic viscosity greater than 5 million mm2/s at 25 C, to about million mm2/s at 25 C. Compositions of this type in the form of suspensions are most preferred, and are described for example in US Patent 6.013,682.

0] Also optional as silicone ingredients are non-volatile polysiloxane having the structure as given above for a*, except that the number of alkenyl groups can be 0, wherein m and n have a value sufficient to provide polysiloxane polymers having a viscosity in the range of 100-10,000 mm2/sec. Typically, the value of m+n is 20 to 500, more preferably 80 to 375. Some illustrative polysiloxane polymers include polydimethylsiloxane, polyd iethylsiloxane, polymethylethylsiloxane, polymethylphenylsiloxane, and polyd iphenylsiloxane.

1] Silicone resins comprise another optional ingredient. These resin compositions are generally highly cross-linked polymeric siloxanes. Crosslinking is obtained by incorporating trifunctional and/or tetrafunctional silanes with the monofunctional silane and/or difunctional silane monomers used during manufacture. The degree of cross-linking required to obtain a suitable silicone resin will vary according to the specifics of the silane monomer units incorporated during manufacture of the silicone resin. In general, any silicone having a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence possessing sufficient levels of cross-linking to dry down to a rigid or a hard film can be considered to be suitable for use as the silicone resin.

2] In particular, the ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is typically indicative of the level of cross-linking in silicones. Silicone resins as such will generally have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom. Preferably, the ratio of oxygen to silicon atoms is at least 1.2:1.0. Some examples of the kinds of silanes that can be used in the manufacture of suitable silicone resins are chiorosilanes containing the various monomethyl, dimethyl, monophenyl, diphenyl, methylphenyl, monovinyl, and methylvinyl units, including tetrahalosilanes.

3] Commercially available silicone resins suitable for applications herein are generally supplied in an unhardened form in low viscosity volatile or non-volatile silicone fluids. The silicone resins could be incorporated into compositions of the invention in their non-hardened forms, but could also be mixed into the composition as hardened resinous structures.

4] Another options silicone ingredient is a silicone polyether copolymer, which may have the structure represented by: rRl lrRl 1 Ri I I Ill I Ri-Si-O--I-si-QI-I-Si-of---Si-Ri or

II III I I

LR1]LR2] x Y rRl lrR1 1 Ri

I II III I I

R2-Si-O-f-Si-OH-Si-OJ-Si-R2

I II III I I

Ri LR1 JLR2] Ri x Z In these structures, RI represents an alkyl group containing 1-6 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, and hexyl; R2 represents the radical - (CH2)aO(C2H40)b(C3H60)cR3; x has a value of 20-1,000, alternatively 20- 200, or alternatively 20-50; y has a value of 2-500, alternatively 2-50, or alternatively 2-10, z has a value of 2-500, alternatively 2-50, or alternatively 2-10; m has a value of 3-5; n is one; a has a value of 3-6; b has a value of 4-30; c has a value of 0-30; and R3 is hydrogen, a methyl radical, or an acyl radical such as acetyl. Preferably, Ri is methyl; b is 6-25; c is zero; and R3 is hydrogen.

5] Typically, a silicone polyether is chosen such that the ratio of x/y or x/z, as described in the structures above, ranges from 2:1 to 50:1, alternatively from 5:1 to 20:1, or alternatively from 10:1 to 12:1. The silicone polyether can be prepared by any of the techniques known in the art, and many are commercially available.

6] Alkylmethylsiloxanes may also be incorporated. These siloxane polymers generally will have the formula Me3SiO[Me2SiO]y[MeRSiO]zSiMe3, in which R is a hydrocarbon group containing 6-30 carbon atoms, Me represents methyl, and the degree of polymerisation (DP), i.e., the sum of y and z is 3-50. Both the volatile and liquid species of alkylmethylsiloxanes can be used in the composition.

7] The composition according to the invention can further contain an oil or oily component. The term oil as used herein refers to any material that is substantially insoluble in water, and which is generally compatible with any low molecular weight silicone species present in the composition. As the composition is intended to be used in a cosmetic or personal care product, the product components must also be cosmetically acceptable, or otherwise meet the conditions of the end use of the product.

8] Some example of suitable oil components include natural oils such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; esters such as C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates; diesters such as propylene dipelargonate; and triesters such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Low viscosity oils can also be used such as those oils having a viscosity of 5 tolOO mPa.s at 25 C, generally consisting of esters having a structure such as RCO-OR' wherein RCO represents a carboxylic acid radical and OR' is an alcohol residue.

9] Some examples of low viscosity oils include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, cocodicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, octododecanol and mixtures of octyldodecanol, Caprylic/ Capric triglycerides, isododecanol, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat and/or cereal germ oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, palm oil, calophyllum, and castor oil.

0] It is possible that the compositions according to the invention also comprise an aqueous component. This would optionally contain one or more water-soluble emollients including, but not limited to, lower molecular weight aliphatic diols such as propylene glycol and butylene glycol; polyols such as glycerine and sorbitol; and polyoxyethylene polymers such as polyethylene glycol 200. The specific type and amount of water-soluble emollient(s) employed will vary depending on the desired aesthetic characteristics of the composition, and is readily determined by one skilled in the art.

[00311 Optional ingredients include pH adjusting agents, preferably to adjust the pH within the range of 4 to 9 and more preferably within the range of 5 to 6. Any water soluble acid such as a carboxylic acid or a mineral acid is suitable. For example, suitable acids include mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, and phosphoric acid, monocarboxylic acid such as acetic acid and lactic acid, and polycarboxylic acids such as succinic acid, adipic acid, and citric acid. Preferably the pH adjusting agent is present in an amount from about 0.01 to 3 wt% and preferably about 0.1 to 0.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

2] If used, pigments would preferably be iron oxides and titanium dioxide which can be present in the composition in the amount of 0.1 to 30 wt.%, preferably 5 to 20 wt.% and most preferably 8 to 14 wt.%.

3] Additional powders may also be included. Such powder component can be generally defined as dry, particulate matter having a particle size of 0.02-50 microns. The particulate matter may be coloured or non-coloured (for example white). Suitable powders include bismuth oxychioride, titanated mica, fumed silica, spherical silica beads, polymethylmethacrylate beads, micronized teflon, boron nitride, acrylate polymers, aluminium silicate, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminium silicate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium oxide, magnesium silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc neodecanoate, zinc rosinate, zinc stearate, polyethylene, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, silk powder, serecite, soy flour, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder, or mixtures thereof. The above mentioned powders may be surface treated with lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil, silicone oil, or various other agents either alone or in combination, which coat the powder surface and render the particles hydrophobic in nature.

[00341 The powder component also comprises various organic and inorganic pigments.

The organic pigments are generally various aromatic types including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C and * 10 FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc. Inorganic pigments generally consist of insoluble metallic salts of certified colour additives, referred to as the Lakes or iron oxides.

5] A pulverulent colouring agent, such as carbon black, chromium or iron oxides, ultramarines, manganese pyrophosphate, iron blue, and titanium dioxide, pearlescent agents, generally used as a mixture with coloured pigments, or some organic dyes, generally used as a mixture with coloured pigments and commonly used in the cosmetics industry, can be added to the composition. In general, these colouring agents can be present in an amount by weight from 0 to 20% with respect to the weight of the final composition.

6] Pulverulent inorganic or organic fillers can also be added, generally in an amount by weight from 0 to 40% with respect to the weight of the final composition. These pulverulent fillers can be chosen from talc, micas, kaolin, zinc or titanium oxides, calcium or magnesium carbonates, silica, spherical titanium dioxide, glass or ceramic beads, metal soaps derived from carboxylic acids having 8-22 carbon atoms, nonexpanded synthetic polymer powders, expanded powders and powders from natural organic compounds, such as cereal starches, which may or may not be cross-linked.

7] The fillers may preferably be present in a proportion of from 0 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably 5 to 15%. Mention may be made in particular of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon powders (in particular ORGASOL ), polyethylene powders, Teflon, starch, boron nitride, copolymer microspheres such as EXPANCEL (Nobel Industrie), polytrap and silicone resin microbeads (TOSPEARL from Toshiba, for example).

8] It may be desirable to add various preservatives such as the parabens, BHT or BHA. Generally, 0.01-5% preservative is suggested.

9] Solvents may also be present, and comprise silicones (see earlier) and/or organic materials. Suitable as a volatile solvent component are various C8 -C20 isoparaffins such as C12 isoparaffin made by The Permethyl Corporation having the tradename Permethyl 99A, or a C12 isoparaffin (isododecane). Various C16 isoparaffins commercially available, such as isohexadecane are also suitable. It is generally preferred that the volatile solvent component be a mixture of volatile silicones and C8-20 isoparaffins. A ratio of 1:1 to about 4:1, respectively is suggested. The preferred formulation of the invention comprises 35-60% * H 11 of a volatile solvent component comprised of a 1:1 to about 4:1 ratio of cyclic silicones and C8-20 isoparaffins.

[00401 Stabilising agents are preferably used in the water phase. Suitable water phase stabilising agents can include alone or in combination one or more electrolytes, polyols, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, and hydrocolloids. Preferred electrolytes are alkali metal salts and alkaline earth salts, especially the chloride, borate, citrate, and sulfate salts of sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium, as well as aluminium chlorohydrate, and polyelectrolytes, especially hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate. When the stabilising agent is, or includes, an electrolyte, it amounts to about 0.1 to 5 wt % and more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt % of the total composition. The hydrocolloids include gums, such as Xanthan gum or Veegum and thickening agents, such as carboxymethyl cellulose. Polyols, such as glycerine, glycols, and sorbitols can also be used. Preferred polyols are glycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol and butylene glycol. If a large amount of a polyol is used, one need not add the electrolyte. However, it is especially preferred to use a combination of an electrolyte, a polyol and a hydrocolloid to stabilize the water phase, e.g. magnesium sulfate, butylene glycol and Xanthan gum.

1] Other stabilising materials can be included such as a high melting point oil material compatible with the oil phase. Suitable materials are fatty esters such as glyceryl tribehenate. Various combinations of the esters and salts can be used. Other stabilisers include organo-modified clays such as quaternium-18-hectorite. Other suitable stabilising materials include carboxyvinyl polymers. Preferred among these polymers are the copolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with polyallylsucrose as described in U.S. Patent 2,798,053, which description is incorporated herein by reference. Still other suitable stabilising materials include di(hydrogenated tatlow) phthalic acid amide, and cross-linked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ether copolymer.

2] The composition according to the invention can include a sunscreen as an optional or as a main ingredient. Sunscreens include those components which absorb ultraviolet light between 290 and 320 nanometers, i.e., the UV-B region, such as para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and cinnamates such as octyl methoxy cinnamate; and those compositions which absorb ultraviolet light in the range of 320 to 400 nanometer, i.e., the UV-A region, such as benzophenone and butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and hydrophilic compositions such as benzylidine-2-camphor sulphonic acid derivatives.

(0043] Emulsifiers may be included in the compositions according to the invention. These may be non-ionic, anionic or cationic. Suitable emulsifiers are disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560, issued Aug. 28, 1973, Dickert et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769, issued Dec. 20, 1983, Dixon et al.; and McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition, pages 31 7-324 (1986), each incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Illustrative nonionic surfactants are alkoxylated compounds based on C10-C22 fatty alcohols and acids, sorbitan and copolymers of polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene.

4] A thickening agent may be included to provide a convenient viscosity. Suitable thickening agents are exemplified by sodium alginate, gum arabic, polyoxyethylene, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, ethoxylated alcohols, such as laureth-4 or polyethylene glycol 400, cellulose derivatives exemplified by methylcellulose, methyihyd roxypropylcellu lose, hydroxypropylcellulose, polypropylhydroxyethylcellulose, starch, and starch derivatives exemplified by hydroxyethylamylose and starch amylose, locust bean gum.

5] Waxes or wax-like materials may also be included. These generally have a melting point range of 35 tol2O C at atmospheric pressure. Waxes in this category include synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba, microcrystalline, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, capok wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, whale wax, bayberry wax, or mixtures thereof. The preferred formulation of the invention comprises about 10-30% of a mixture of waxes. Mention may be made, among the waxes capable of begin used as non-silicone fatty substances, of animal waxes, such as beeswax; vegetable waxes, such as carnauba, candelilla, ouricury orjapan wax orcork fibre or sugarcane waxes; mineral waxes, for example paraffin or lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites; synthetic waxes, including polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch synthesis. Mention may be made, among the silicone waxes, of polymethylsiloxane alkyls, alkoxys and/or esters.

6] More preferably the compositions according to the invention are an anti-wrinkle product, a facial care, a foundation, eye shadow, a blusher, face powder, body powder, a body make-up product or a body care product.

7] The cosmetic or health care compositions intended as skin care compositions can be used on the skin of humans or animals to cleanse, moisturize, colour or generally () 13 improve the appearance. The skin care compositions of this invention are expected to be used by the usual method of applying to skin, potentially using applicators, brushes, wipes or applying by hand, and/or possibly rubbing or massaging the composition into the skin.

Removal methods, for example for colour cosmetics are also preferably standard, and may include washing, wiping, peeling or the like.

8] The cosmetic or healthcare compositions according to this invention may be in the form of a cream, a gel, a compacted powder, a moulded powder, a free flowing powder, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in- water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a milk, a freely pourable liquid or a paste. These may be prepared by the normal ways known in the art, such as mixing, emulsifying, agitating etc. Simply mixing all ingredients together, and stirring them thoroughly may prepare the skin care compositions. Heat may be applied to improve the dispersion of some ingredients.

(00491 The composition according to the invention can alternatively be manufactured by known emulsification processes generally used in the cosmetics or dermatological field. The emulsification processes for manufacturing the compositions according to the invention do not differ in any way from the processes conventionally used in cosmetics and are fully known to a person skilled in the art. Emulsions type can vary and be either water-in-oil, water-in-silicone, oil-in-water, silicone-in- water, multiple emulsion or anhydrous emulsions.

(0050] The cosmetic or health care compositions, in particular the skin care compositions according to the present invention are normally used in a conventional manner for cleansing, coating, changing the appearance of and/or conditioning skin. An effective amount of the composition for the purpose is applied to the skin. Such effective amounts generally range from about ig to about 50g, preferably from about ig to about 20g. Application to the skin typically includes working the composition into the skin. This method for applying to the skin comprises the steps of i) contacting the skin with the composition in an effective amount and ii) rubbing the composition into the skin. These steps can be repeated as many times as desired to achieve the desired benefit.

1] The present invention has several benefits, based on the unexpected discovery that the inclusion of a composite cured silicone elastomer powder results in cosmetic, personal care or healthcare compositions that impart the improved characteristics when compared to similar formulations without such cured silicone powder. H 14

(0052] The compositions according to the invention display an exceptional improvement of the skin feel properties combined with an immediate wrinkle masking benefit and an ease of use without dispersion problems. The compositions are used to smooth out or reduce wrinkles and fine lines appearance on the skin in combination with an ease of use and a lack of dispersing problems. They also provide improvement of the feel, processing costs, both in respect to time and labour, and additionally provide high lubricity, impart to the skin a silky, smooth, soft, moist texture. During manufacture, they enable even dispersion of active agents and pigments. One experiences a detackification of formulation components, a decrease of surface shine and a better absorption of human sebum on the skin. The compositions also impart the sensory performance, may better sustain fragrance release and impart softness to solid substrates. The particularly are effective in masking surface imperfections, reducing whitening of antiperspirant salts, modifying formulation rheology and enhancing emulsion stability.

3] The following examples are set forth to illustrate the invention more in detail.

EXAMPLE 1: Ease of use (0054] The composite cured silicone elastomer powder has been found very easy to handle and to formulate with. It does provide a very good quality of dispersion due to its free flowing characteristic and avoids or limits the formation of agglomerates, which means that in the manufacture there is no need to pre-mix the ingredients prior to usage, such as by shaking the container. Also the dispersing time is short and the appearance of the below formulated products has been found very homogeneous. Due to its ease of use and no dispersing problems it was noticed that such silica treated silicone elastomer powder could impact in various ways on the final product texture without adding additional texturing agent for instance.

(0055] A tinted powder composition was prepared by combining the following components utilizing a very simple mixing technique.

Ingredient Wt. % Trade Name/Supplier Phase A 1. CI 77891 Dimethicone 13.43 SAT-T-47051 I US Cosmetics Corp. 2. Cl 77491 Dimethicone 0.97 SAT-R-33128 / US Cosmetics Corp. 3. Cl 77492 Dimethicone 2.43 SAT-Y-338073 / US Cosmetics Corp. 4. CI 77499 Dimethicone 0.17 SAT-B-33134 / US Cosmetics Corp. 5. Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone 17 Dow Corning TREFIL E-506 S (DC Crosspolymer 9506 POWDER) 6. DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone 34 Dow Corning 9701 COSMETIC Crosspolymer (and) Silica POWDER 7. Fragrance 2.5 Coconut Paradise I Symrise 8. Perfume 2.5 Vanilla I Expressions Parfumees 9. Cyclomethicone 25 Dow Corning 245 FLUID 10. Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) 2 Titanium Dioxide [0056] The method of preparation followed the procedure of pre-grinding together the pigments followed by adding the ingredients in order and mixing them using an appropriate blender at room temperature. This very simple formulation shows how easy the amorphous silica micropowder coated cured silicone powder can be used in order to formulate a free- powder cosmetic product with addition of high level of perfume and pigments into the composition.

(0057] A skin cream composition was prepared by combining the following components utilizing the following mixing techniques. H 16

Ingredient Wt. Trade Name/Supplier % Phase A 1. Cl 77891 Dimethicone 0.528 SAT-T-47051 I US Cosmetics Corp. 2. Cl 77491 Dimethicone 0.456 SAT-R-33128 I US Cosmetics Corp. 3. CI 77492 Dimethicone 0.732 SAT-Y-338073 I US Cosmetics Corp. 4. Cl 77499 Dimethicone 0.284 SAT-B-33134 I US Cosmetics Corp. Phase B 5. DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone 23 Dow Corning 9701 COSMETIC POWDER Crosspolymer (and) Silica 6. Zinc Oxide (and) Dimethicone 6 Z-Cote HP-I / BASF Corporation Phase C 7. Distilled Water 4 8. Water (and) Propylene Glycol (and) 1 Cocoa Phytolait / Alban Muller International Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract (and) Sclerotium Gum 9. Dimethicone 22.75 Dow Corning 200 FL 5 CS 10. Cyclomethicone 22.75 Dow Corning 245 FLUID II. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol 5 Dow Corning 1501 FLUID 12. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone 5 Dow Corning 9546 SILICONE Crosspolymer (and) DimethiconeNinyl ELASTOMER BLEND Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethiconol 13. Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 1 Cocoa Butter /Alban Muller International 14. Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) 1 Monoi de Tahiti Butter - Fragranced I Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract Pacifique Sud Cosmetique 15. Tocopheryl Acetate 0.5 di-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate I DSM Nutritional Products 16. Polysilicone-15 5 Parsol-SLX / DSM Nutritional Products Phase D 17. Fragrance 1 Chocolat Creme 0310585 / Expressions Parfumees $ 17 [0058] The following procedure was used: 1. Pre grind together the pigments.

2. Combine phase A and phase B in a covered vessel and mix with high speed dispersing action until all the powders are uniform. For larger quantities, use nitrogen gas to make the head space of the mixer inert as a safety precaution.

3. To the main mixer vessel, add the ingredients of phase C and heat with mixing to 45 C, or until the Cocoa Butter is melted and the ingredients are uniform.

4. Add the combined phases A and B to the mixer in increments. Good scraping and high- speed dispersing action is recommended.

5. Add fragrance.

[00591 A Reduce Spot formulation contains whitening active Commercial name Phase % Dow Corning 9011 Silicone Elastomer Blend Al 10 Dow Corning 245 Fluid A2 9,25 Dow Corning 2-1 184 Fluid A3 9,25 Dow Corning 5562 Carbinol Fluid A4 2 Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Fluid A5 I coteHP1 A6 I Dow Corning 9045 Silicone Elastomer BlendA7 10 Phenonip A8 0,5 Nater B1 43 Glycerin B2 3 dpha arbutin B3 1 Trivalin SF B4 5 Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder C 5 [0060] Procedure: Stir Bi, B2 and B4 to homogenise and dissolve B3. Homogenise A with Turrax at medium speed. Add B to A and homogenise 2 minutes. Add C and homogenise with Ultra Turrax type of mixer at high speed.

1] A Reduce Cellulite formulation contains slimming active Commercial name Phase % Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder D 15.00 Water Cl 8.27 Caobromine C2 2.00 SAT T47051 Al 0,4 SAT R33128 A2 0,11 SAT Y338073 A3 0, 17 SAT B33134 A4 0,07 coteHP1 A5 1,29 Dow Corning 245 Fluid A6 25,5 Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 5 cSt Bi 24,52 Dow Corning 1501 Fluid B2 8,39 Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend B3 10.00 Cetiol SB45 B4 1.29 Monol butter tahiti B5 1.29 Phenonip B6 0,5 PPG-3 Myristyl Ether B7 1.00 Perfume B8 0,2 [0062] Procedure: Mix pigments with Dow Corning 245 and homogenise. Mix B1-B6 and heat until wax is melted. Add pigment mix to B while stirring. After cooling down, add Phenonip and perfume. Mix water phase separately and add while high speed stirring.

Spread D slowly into the mixture while high speed stirring. Continue to stir at high speed for additional 10 minutes.

EXAMPLE 2: Wrinkle masking results [0063] The purpose of the study was to give evidence of the lifting effect or wrinkles masking effect of the test products. The study has been conducted on volunteers following the experimental protocol ref. BlO- HC ref. EFL of 03/03/2003. The test products that showed evidence of the wrinkles masking effect were on water-in-silicone formulations containing DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica at 4% and at 10% as described into table #1.

4] The formulation # 2 detailed in table # 1 has been evaluated for the smoothing effect on volunteers crow's foot wrinkles and has provided an improvement of the wrinkles and! or little wrinkles for 75% of the subjects for a statistically significant mean decrease of 28% (P<0.01). For 44% of these subjects the improvement observed is very clear (>55%) for 37% of these subjects the improvement observed are clear or moderate (40-20% range) and for the others the improvement was slight (<20%).

5] The formulation # 4 detailed in table 1 has been evaluated for the smoothing effect on volunteers crow's foot wrinkles and has provided an improvement of the wrinkles and! or little wrinkles for 76% of the subjects for a statistically significant mean decrease of 16% (P<0.01). For 12% of these subjects the improvement observed is very clear (>60%) for 44% of these subjects the improvement observed are clear or moderate (40- 20% range) and for the others the improvement was slight (<20%) Table #1: Water-in-silicone emulsions [0066] Water-in-silicone compositions were prepared by combining the following components utilizing conventional mixing techniques.

Ingredient Wt. % Wt.% WT Wt.% Trade Name/Supplier % Formulation #Phase A 1 2 3 4 1. DimethiconeNinyl 0 4 5 10 Dow Corning 9701 COSMETIC POWDER Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica 2. Cyclopentasiloxane 10 10 10 10 Dow Corning 5225C FORMULATION AID (and) PEG!PPG-18118 Dimethicone 3. Cyclomethicone 20 16 15 20 Dow Corning 245 FLUID 4. PPG-3 Myristyl Ether 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Promyristyl PM-3! Croda, Inc. Phase B 5. Distifled Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 6. Glycerin 5 5 5 5 7. Sodium Chloride 2 2 2 2 8 Propylene Glycol (and) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Germaben Ill ISP Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben [0067] The following procedure was used 1. Mix phase A ingredients together.

2. Mix phase B ingredients together.

3. Add slowly phase B to phase A under strong mixing.

4. Homogenise using a high shear mixer (Ultraturrax or Silverson type) EXAMPLE 3: Sensory Profile [0068] Various sensory testing of skin feel attributes were performed in order to obtain a sensory profile of the compositions detailed in table # I and table # 2.

Formulations # 2, 3, 4 from table # I and the formulations # 2 from table # 2 indicate that the panellists felt more of a powdery, silky feel on the skin when using a composition containing the new component. The introduction of the DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica ends up with an improvement of the feel.

Table #2: Silicone-in-water emulsion [0069] Silicone-in-water compositions were prepared by combining the following components utilizing conventional mixing techniques. r)

Ingredient Wt. % Wt.% Trade NamelSupplier Formulation # 1 2 Phase A 1. Cyclomethicone 21 11 Dow Corning 245 FLUID 2. PEG-12 Dimethicone 4 4 Dow Corning 5329

PERFORMANCE MODIFIER

3. DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone 0 10 Dow Corning 9701 COSMETIC Crosspolymer (and) Silica POWDER 4. Lauryl PEGIPPG-18/18 Methicone 0.5 0.5 Dow Corning 5200

FORMULATION AID

Phase B 5. Deionised Water 72.5 72.5 Phase C 6. Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 2 2 Sepigel 305 I Seppic S.A.

Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 [0070] The following procedure was used 1. Mix phase A ingredients together.

2. Add phase A to phase B with high speed stirring (2-3 mins. Silverson type) 3. Add phase C with mixing.

1] Sensory testing for skin feel attributes was performed on the formulations of table # 2. Formulation # 2 was compared to formulation # 1 that is a similar formulation in which DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica has been replaced by cyclopentasiloxane according to ISO 5495-1983 "Sensory Analysis-Methodology-Paired Comparison" and a book by Meilgaard, Civille, and Carr, entitled Sensory Evaluation Techniques, 31d Edition', CRC Press, Boca Raton, 1999. Attributes were evaluated immediately after rub-in and again after absorption. Formulation # 2 gave significantly lower immediate wet feel (p=0.003) and significantly higher speed of absorption (P<0.001) compared with the formulation # 1. Formulation # 2 also gave after absorption significantly higher silky feel (p=0.085), powdery feel (p<0.001), slippery feel (p=0.004) but also imparts a p 22 lower greasy feel (p=0.001), tackiness (p<0.001) and lower gloss to the skin compared with the formulation # 1, indicating that the panellists felt more of a powdery, silky feel on the skin.

2] Sensory testing for skin feel attributes was also performed on the formulations of table # 1. Formulation # 4 was compared to formulation # 1 according to ISO 5495-1983 "Sensory Analysis-Methodology-Paired Comparison" and a book by Meilgaard, Civille, and Carr, entitled Sensory Evaluation Techniques, 3rd Edition', CRC Press, Boca Raton, 1999. In formulation # 4, 10 % of water has been replaced by 10% of DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica. Attributes were evaluated immediately after rub-in and again after absorption. Formulation #4 containing the new component gave significantly lower immediate wet feel (p<0.001) and significantly higher speed of absorption (P<0.001) compared with the formulation # 1. Formulation # 4 also gave after absorption significantly higher smooth feel (p=0.001), but also imparts a lower film residue, lower greasy feel and lower gloss (p<0.001) to the skin compared with the formulation #4, indicating that the panellists felt more of a smooth feel on the skin.

EXAMPLE 4: Sebum Absorption [0073] Measures were performed in order to measure the ability of the new component to modify the level of fatty material present on the skin. Comparison of formulation # 1 (see Example 1) to the same formulation in which DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica has been replaced by Dimethicone I Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer was made using a test method well known by a person skilled in the art (Dow Corning STP.PC.005: Sebum level of the skin using a Sebumeter SM81 OPC) [0074] Measures were made 2, 4 and 6 hours after the application of the formulations.

Formulation containing DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica gave significantly lower sebum level after 2 hours (decrease of 17. 5%), 4 hours (decrease of 10.4%) and 6 hours (decrease of 21.9%).

EXAMPLE 5: Viscosity measurement [0075] Formulation # 2 in table #1 has an impact on the viscosity compared to formulation

#1(table#1)

Viscosity of Water-in-Silicone Cream Q. 80000 60000 - U) 3 40000- U) > 20000 0- - Control 5% Dow Corning 9701 W/Si cream

*Brookfield DV II Spindle RV 07 at 5 rpm.

EXAMPLE 6: Absorption of various fluids in % on to the new component

Table#3: Dow Dow

Corning KSP KSP Softouch Softouch Toray St Gobain Corning Ingredients 9701 101 CC6069 CCS4O2 5pm UHPIIO6 9506 Cosmetic Powder Powder Water 46.5* 46. 2 68.4 47.9 66.0 0.0 54.1 60.0 Ethanol 40.1 35.5 51.5 39.8 57.3 49.0 51.9 56.5 Dow Corning 71.7 78.1 61.5 45.7 58.5 55.4 78.0 84.8 Dow Corning 74.8 79.7 60.9 46.2 64.0 60.0 80.4 86.3 245 ________ Dow Corning 74.2 78.4 60.6 46.8 62.3 60.0 79.7 86.1 Dow Corning 65.9 73.5 59.3 45 7 62 7 58.7 74.9 82.6 )AA I.-+'t ÙU Isododecane 70.0 74.7 56 1 45.7 56.7 52.8 75 7 83.3 Mineral oil 50.7 50.7 56.9 43 2 58 2 54.5 59.7 66.3 The process used was to weigh the powder in a watch glass' and adding drop by drop the fluid to be tested, mixing it with a spatula.

Claims (10)

1. A cosmetic or healthcare composition comprising a composite cured silicone powder, consisting of the combination of (A) a cured silicone powder having an average particle diameter of 0.1 to 200 micrometers that has immobilized on its surface a microfine inorganic powder (B).
2. 2. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to claim 1, wherein the microfine inorganic powder (B) is A1203, Ti02, Fe203, ZnO, CeO2, Y203, Mn304, an amorphous silica micropowder or amorphous mica micropowder having an average particle diameter not exceeding 1 micrometer.
3. 3. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to claim I or 2, comprising in addition to the composite cured silicone powder component, a second composite cured silicone elastomer powder, a non-cured silicone elastomer powder or a powder such as a dry, particulate matter having a particle size of 0.02-50 microns.
4. 4. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the composite cured silicone powder is present at levels from 2 to 60 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
5. 5. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, which also comprises an aqueous phase at I to 80 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.
6. 6. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, which also comprise one or more cosmetic active ingredients or health care active ingredients selected from antiacne agents, anti-ageing agents, anticaries agents, antidandruff agents, antifungal agents, antimicrobial agents, antioxidants, antiperspirant agents, cosmetic biocides, deodorising agents, external analgesics, oral care agents, oral care drugs, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, skin bleaching agents, skin protectants, essential oils, insect repellents, sunscreen agents, UV light absorbing agents, solar filters, auto-tanning agents, pigments, moisturisers, hydrating agents, vitamins, anti-wrinkle agents, enzymes, optical brighteners and fabric softening agents. H 25
7. 7. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, which further comprises one or more other components selected from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, silicones, waxes, gelling agents, film-forming polymers and thickeners.
8. 8. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, which is an anti-wrinkle product, a facial care, a foundation, eye shadow, a blusher, face powder, body powder, body make-up product or a body care product.
9. 9. A cosmetic or healthcare composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, which is in the form of a cream, a gel, a compacted powder, a moulded powder, a free flowing powder, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a milk, a freely pourable liquid or a paste
10. 10. A process of applying a cosmetic or healthcare composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, which comprises applying to the skin using applicators, brushes, wipes or by hand, and rubbing or massaging the composition into the skin.