FR3098714A1 - Process for treating keratin fibers combining a composition comprising a water-soluble silicate and a composition comprising an amino acid and / or an oligopeptide - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising a first step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one water-soluble silicate then a second step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least a compound chosen from amino acids and / or oligopeptides.

Description

Process for treating keratin fibers combining a composition comprising a water-soluble silicate and a composition comprising an amino acid and/or an oligopeptide

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising a first step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one water-soluble silicate then a second step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least a compound chosen from amino acids and/or oligopeptides.

context

Many people are unhappy with the way their hair looks, especially people with curly hair most often seek straight hair and conversely those with straight hair want curly hair.

In order to change the shape of the hair permanently, three main types of techniques can be used.

A first technique consists firstly in carrying out the opening of the disulphide bonds -SS- of the keratin (keratocystin) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction step) then, after rinsing the hair thus treated, generally with water, to subsequently reconstitute said disulphide bonds by applying to the hair previously put under tension, for example by curlers, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixing step) in such a way to finally give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible to achieve waving (perm process) and/or straightening (or straightening) of the hair.

The new shape imposed on the hair by such a chemical treatment is eminently durable over time and resists in particular the action of washing with water or shampoos, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as in fold.

The reducing compositions for implementing the first stage generally contain, as reducing agents, sulphites, bisulphites, alkyl phosphines or preferably thiols. Among the latter, mention may in particular be made of cysteine and its various derivatives, cysteamine and its derivatives, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, their salts as well as their esters, in particular glycerol thioglycolate.

The oxidizing compositions necessary for implementing the fixing step are most often compositions based on hydrogen peroxide.

However, such a technique is not yet entirely satisfactory. Indeed, although the latter proves to be very effective in modifying the shape of the hair, it still remains degrading for the hair fibers, which is mainly due to the high levels of reducing agents used in the reducing compositions as well as to the different times more or less long poses that may occur during such a process. In addition, the reducing compositions used can be malodorous.

This technique can thus induce in the long run an alteration of the quality of the hair resulting in a reduction of their cosmetic properties, such as their shine and a deterioration of their mechanical properties, more particularly of their mechanical resistance, due to swelling of the hair during the treatment. rinsing between the reduction stage and the oxidation stage which can also result in an increase in their porosity. In addition, the use of reducing agents can lead to unsatisfactory durability for straightening the hair, in particular for straightening or straightening the hair. Finally, we very often have to deal with odor problems both with the reducing compositions used and in particular those containing thiols and with the reduced hair.

The second of the techniques usually used to obtain hair straightening or straightening consists of carrying out a so-called lanthionization operation, using a composition containing a base belonging to the hydroxide family. It leads to the replacement of disulphide bonds (-CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -) by lanthionine bonds (-CH ₂ -S-CH ₂ -).

Compared to the first technique described above using a reducing agent, this lanthionization technique does not require a fixing step, since the formation of lanthionine bridges is irreversible.

It is therefore carried out in a single step and allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their shaping or their uncurling or their smoothing. This technique is mainly used for shaping naturally frizzy hair.

However, the hydroxides used during this process have the major drawback of being caustic. This causticity can in some cases affect the scalp, sometimes causing irritation and also affect the condition of the hair by making it, on the one hand, rough to the touch and, on the other hand, much more fragile. The use of hydroxides can also cause in some cases discoloration of the natural color of the hair.

Finally, the third technique usually used consists of the combination of heat and an alpha keto acid such as glyoxylic acid. Such a method is described for example in application WO2011/104282. However, alpha keto acids may, especially at high concentrations, not be well tolerated, especially when the scalp is sensitive and/or irritated. Their volatility, amplified by the use of heat, for example through a curling or straightening iron, can also be a problem. Furthermore, cosmetic formulations with an acid pH can alter the hair and/or alter its color.

Moreover, this type of straightening process is often associated with different steps of washing, drying, conditioning, shaping with a brush and a hair dryer which make these processes tedious to implement, particularly in terms of treatment time. hair to achieve the desired hair straightening.

The permanent deformation techniques described above may include a step of heat treatment of the fibers using a heating tool, which may also contribute to the deterioration of the quality of the hair.

There are certainly cold straightening tools that can be used as a hair styling tool. Mention may in particular be made of the cooling straightening iron of the Inverse ® brand marketed by the company Roholm Limited. The technical characteristics of such an iron are described in particular in patent application US2017/0127784. However, these tools used alone do not allow a permanent deformation of the hair.

There is therefore still a real need to develop an effective permanent hair deformation process, more respectful of the integrity of the fiber, simple and quick to implement, hot or cold, the deformation being characterized by a good remanence to shampoos. There is also a need to develop a process for permanently deforming the hair which is durable, in particular in a humid atmosphere and which does not generate an odor which could inconvenience the person implementing it or, where appropriate, the consumer receiving the process.

The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these problems can be solved by the process according to the present invention.

Abstract

According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers comprising the following successive steps:
i) application to the keratin fibers of a composition (A) comprising at least one water-soluble silicate; and
ii) application to the keratin fibers of a composition (B) comprising at least one compound (b) chosen from amino acids, oligopeptides, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic use of compositions (A) and (B) as defined above associated with a heating or cooling treatment of keratin fibers using respectively a heating means or cooling coming into contact with the keratin fibers for the permanent deformation of the keratin fibers.

According to a final aspect, the subject of the present invention is a keratin fiber treatment kit comprising a first, a second and a third compartment comprising respectively:
- a composition (A) as defined above; and
- a composition (B) as defined above; and
- a heating or cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibres.

detailed description

By “process for permanently reshaping keratin fibers” is meant the processes for perming, smoothing or straightening keratin fibers.

By "keratin fibers" is meant fibers of human or animal origin such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably the hair.

By "successive steps", we mean steps implemented in the order indicated.

By "silicate" is meant a salt of a silicic acid.

By "water-soluble silicate" is meant a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1 % in weight.

By "amino acid" is meant a carboxylic acid which also has an amine functional group, preferably primary or secondary amine, more preferably primary. Preferably, the amino acids are α-amino acids.

By "oligopeptide" is meant a polymer of amino acids comprising a chain of amino acids interconnected by peptide bonds, in which the chain comprises from 2 to 20 amino acids.

By "salts" is meant the addition salts of organic or mineral acids.

By "urea" is meant the compound of formula CO(NH ₂ ) ₂ .

By "derivative of urea" is meant any compound other than urea itself comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms.

By "fat" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), having a solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, of preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

By “solid fatty substance” is meant a fatty substance that is solid at ordinary room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). They preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 .

The terms "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.

Treatment method

According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers as defined above.

The method according to the present invention is particularly advantageous in that it is in particular more respectful of the integrity of the fiber, simple and quick to implement, hot or cold and does not generate an odor which could inconvenience the person implementing it or, where applicable, the consumer receiving the process. In particular, the permanent deformation of the keratinous fibers observed is characterized by good remanence to shampoos and/or in a humid atmosphere.

In the process according to the present invention, it is essential that steps i) and ii) are successive, that is to say that step ii) is implemented after step i). The method may comprise one or more additional steps between steps i) and ii) but even in such an embodiment, step ii) is always implemented after step i).

Step ii) can be implemented directly after step i).

Preferably, composition (A) does not comprise compound(s) (b) chosen from amino acids, oligopeptides, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, and composition (B) does not comprise water-soluble silicate(s).

Composition (A) can be applied during step i) at a temperature ranging from 20° C. to 45° C. and/or composition (B) can be applied during step ii) at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 45°C.

The method may further comprise:
- between steps i) and ii), a step i′) consisting in leaving the composition (A) on the fibers for a period ranging from 5 to 30 min, preferably from 15 min to 30 min; and or

- after step ii), a step ii′) consisting in leaving the composition (B ) on the fibers for a period ranging from 5 min to 30 min, preferably from 15 min to 30 min.

The exposure time can be performed under an occlusive system. By way of non-limiting example of an occlusive system, mention may be made of an occlusive system of the aluminum foil type or covered with plastic film.

Preferably, the process is a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibres. More preferably, the process is a process for smoothing or straightening keratin fibres.

By "iron" is meant a device comprising two elements connected in a pivoting manner making it possible to pinch the keratin fibers in order to shape them. The surfaces of the two elements that can come into contact with the keratin fibers can be metallic. These surfaces can be smooth or notched. The iron can be heated or cooled.

The application of the heating or cooling iron can be carried out by successive touches separated by a few seconds, or by displacement or progressive sliding along the locks.

Preferably, the application of the heating or cooling iron in the process according to the invention is done in continuous movement from the root to the tip, in one or more passes, for example from 3 to 10 passes.

Step iii) temperature decrease

The method may also comprise a step iii) of reducing the temperature of the keratin fibres, using a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibres. Step iii) is implemented after step ii). The method may comprise one or more additional steps between steps ii) and iii) but even in such an embodiment, step iii) is always implemented after step ii).

Step iii) can be implemented directly after step ii) or directly after step ii’), if present.

Preferably, the cooling means is maintained at a temperature ranging from -20°C to 15°C. More preferably, the cooling means is maintained at a temperature ranging from -15°C to 15°C. Even more preferably, the cooling means is maintained at a temperature ranging from -15°C to 0°C.

cooling medium

Preferably, the cooling means is a keratin fiber shaping tool.

More preferably, the cooling means is chosen from cooling irons, cooling curlers and cooling combs. Even more preferably, the cooling means is chosen from cooling irons and cooling curlers. Even more preferably, the cooling means is chosen from cooling irons.

By way of example of cooling irons which can be used in the method according to the invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the cooling straightening iron of the Inverse® brand marketed by the company Roholm Limited. The technical characteristics of such an iron are described in particular in patent application US2017/0127784.

By way of example of cooling curlers that can be used in the method according to the invention, mention may be made of the cooling curlers described in particular in patent application US2017/0127784.

By way of example of a cooling comb that can be used in the method according to the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of a metal comb cooled using liquid nitrogen or placed in the freezer before use.

Stage iii’) of raising the temperature

The method may also comprise a step iii′) of raising the temperature of the keratin fibres, using a heating means coming into contact with the keratin fibres. Stage iii’) is implemented after stage ii). The method may comprise one or more additional steps between steps ii) and iii′) but even in such an embodiment, step iii′) is always implemented after step ii).

Step iii') can be implemented directly after step ii) or directly after step ii'), if present.

Preferably, the heating means is maintained at a temperature ranging from 25°C to 250°C. More preferably, the heating means is maintained at a temperature ranging from 35°C to 250°C. Even more preferably, the heating means is maintained at a temperature of 100°C to 250°C. Even more preferably, the heating means is maintained at a temperature of 150°C to 230°C.

Preferably, the process can comprise between steps ii) (or ii′)) and iii′) an additional step of drying the keratin fibers which can be carried out by means of a hair dryer, a helmet or even by drying free. The additional drying step can advantageously be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 70°C.

heating medium

Preferably, the heating means is a keratin fiber shaping tool.

More preferably, the heating means is chosen from heated irons, heated combs and heated curlers. Even more preferentially, the heating means is chosen from heating irons.

By way of example of heating irons which can be used in the method according to the invention, mention may be made, without limitation, of straightening irons, curling irons, pinking irons, wave irons and steam irons.

By way of example, the method according to the present invention may comprise a step i) as defined above followed by a step i′) as defined above, followed by a step ii) as defined above. -before, followed by a step ii′) as defined above, followed by a step iii) as defined above.

By way of example, the method according to the present invention may comprise a step i) as defined above followed by a step i′) as defined above, followed by a step ii) as defined above. -before, followed by a step ii′) as defined above, followed by a step iii′) as defined above.

Rinse and/or wash step

The method may also comprise a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibers directly after step ii) or, where appropriate, directly after step ii′).

In the case where the method according to the present invention comprises an additional step iii) or iii′) as defined above, the method can also comprise a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibers respectively after the step iii) or iii').

Preferably, the process does not include a rinsing and/or washing step between step i) or, where appropriate, step i′) and step ii).

In the case where the method according to the present invention comprises an additional step iii) or iii′) as defined above, the method preferably does not include a rinsing and/or washing step between step ii) or, where appropriate, step ii′) and respectively step iii) or iii′).

Preferably, in the case where the method according to the present invention comprises an additional step iii) or iii′) as defined above, the method does not include a rinsing and/or washing step between step i ) or, where applicable, step i′) and step ii) and the process does not comprise a rinsing and/or washing step between step ii) or, where applicable, step ii′) and respectively step iii) or iii').

Rinsing can be done with water or with an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent. By way of non-limiting example of an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent, mention may be made of an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide.

Washing can be done with shampoo. It is possible in particular to use a neutralizing shampoo.

By way of example, the method according to the present invention may comprise a step i) as defined above followed by a step i′) as defined above, followed by a step ii) as defined above. -before, followed by a step ii′) as defined above, followed by a step iii) as defined above, followed by a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres.

By way of example, the method according to the present invention may comprise a step i) as defined above followed by a step i′) as defined above, followed by a step ii) as defined above. -before, followed by a step ii′) as defined above, followed by a step iii′) as defined above, followed by a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres.

Water-soluble silicate(s)

Composition (A) comprises at least one water-soluble silicate. Preferably, the water-soluble silicate is chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the water-soluble silicate is chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the water-soluble silicate is chosen from sodium silicates. Even more preferably, the water-soluble silicate is sodium metasilicate.

Composition (A) may comprise a total content of water-soluble silicate(s) ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) . Preferably, composition (A) may comprise a total content of water-soluble silicate(s) ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) . More preferably, composition (A) may comprise a total content of water-soluble silicate(s) ranging from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

Compound(s) (b)

Composition (B) comprises at least one compound (b) chosen from amino acids, oligopeptides, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

Preferably, compound (b) is chosen from amino acids, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

The amino acids are preferably in the form of an optical isomer of L or D configuration, more preferably of L configuration.

The amino acids can be chosen from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, polar neutral amino acids, apolar neutral amino acids and mixtures thereof.

By “acidic amino acid” is meant an amino acid comprising more acid functions than basic functions, in particular proteinogenic amino acids whose side chain comprises an acid function. In particular within the meaning of the present invention, the term "acidic amino acid" means an amino acid chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid and mixtures thereof.

By “basic amino acid” is meant an amino acid comprising more basic functions than acid functions, in particular proteinogenic amino acids whose side chain comprises a basic function. In particular within the meaning of the present invention, the term "basic amino acid" means an amino acid chosen from arginine, histidine, lysine and their mixtures.

By “polar neutral amino acid” is meant an uncharged amino acid at pH=7 and comprising a polar chemical function such as a thiol, alcohol or phenol, basic CONH ₂ amide function. In particular within the meaning of the present invention, the term “polar neutral amino acid” means an amino acid chosen from serine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine, glutamine, tyrosine and their mixtures.

By "neutral apolar amino acid" is meant an uncharged amino acid at pH=7 and apolar. In particular within the meaning of the present invention, the term "non-polar neutral amino acid" means an amino acid chosen from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, proline and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, compound (b) is chosen from basic amino acids, polar neutral amino acids, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.

Even more preferably, compound (b) is chosen from cysteine, serine, histidine and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, compound (b) is cysteine.

Composition (B) may comprise a total content of compound(s) (b) ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B) . Preferably, composition (B) may comprise a total content of compound(s) (b) ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B) . More preferably, composition (B) may comprise a total content of compound(s) (b) ranging from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

Urea or urea derivative(s)

Composition (A) may also comprise at least one compound (a) chosen from urea, urea derivatives, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof.

The composition(AT)may include a total content of compound(s)(at) ranging from 1% to 20%, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT).

Preferably, compound (a) is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (II) below, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures:

in which :
▪ R1, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently of each other:
(i) a hydrogen atom; Where
(ii) a C1-C5 alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having from 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;
Being heard that :
- when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 can denote a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C1-C6)alkylcarbonyl radical such as acetyl, (C1-C6) alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical;
- when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 may represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 an acetyl radical;
- when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring;
- R1 and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring;
▪ R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other:
(i) a hydrogen atom or
(ii) a C1-C5 alkyl, acyl or lower alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having from 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;
▪ A is a radical chosen from the radicals: CH2-CH2, CH=CH, CH2-CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH2 -CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH=C(CH3)-CO, NH-CO-NH, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, NH-CH2-NH, CO-CH (CH3)-CH2, CO-CH2-CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH2, CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH3), CO-C(NH2 )=CH, CO-C(CH3)=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH.

Preferably, the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from urea, methylurea, ethylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, cyclopentylurea, l ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, 1- (3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, benzylurea, N-carbamoyl maleamide, N-carbamoyl maleamic acid, piperidinecarboxamide, 1,2,4-triazol-4-yl-urea, hydantoic acid, allophanate methyl urea, ethyl allophanate, acetylurea, hydroxyethyleneurea, 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, diallylurea, chloroethylurea, N,N-dimethylurea, N,N-diethylurea, N,N -dipropylurea, cyclopentyl-1-methylurea, 1,3-dimethylurea, 1,3-diethylurea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-dipropylurea, ethyl-3-propylurea, sec-butyl-3-methylurea, isobut yl-3-methylurea, cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, trimethylurea, butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, tetramethylurea, benzylurea and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compounds of formula (II) can be chosen from parabanic acid, 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one, barbituric acid, uracil, 1-methyl uracil, 3-methyl uracil, 5-methyl uracil, 1,3-dimethyl uracil, 5-aza uracil, 6-aza uracil, 5-fluoro uracil, 6-fluoro uracil, 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluoro uracil, 5-amino uracil, 6-amino uracil, 6-amino-1-methyl uracil, 6-amino-1,3-dimethyl uracil, 4-chloro uracil , 5-chloro uracil, 5,6-dihydro uracil, 5,6-dihydro-5-methyl uracil, 2-imidazolidone, 1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone, 1,3-dimethyl-2- imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one, 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 1-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 1-(3-hydroxypropyl)- 2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid, 1-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole, 4-methyl-1,2,4 -triazoline-3,5-dione, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine, 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one, hydantoin, 1-methylhydantoin, 5 -methylhydantoin, 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 5-ethylhydantoin, 5-n-propylhydantoin, 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin, 1-allylhydantoin, 1-aminohydantoin, hydantoin 5-acetic acid, 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione, hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6- dione, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one, 1-methyl-tetrahydro-pyrimidin-2-one, 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine, urazole , 4-methylurazole, orotic acid, dihydroxyorotic acid, 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, barbiturate, 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid, cyanuric acid, 1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione, 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H- pyrimidinone, 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione, 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid, 6-azathymine, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, alloxan monohydrate and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, compound (a) is urea.

Fat body

Composition (B) may also comprise at least one fatty substance. Preferably, the fatty substance is a solid fatty substance.

Preferably, the solid fatty substance can be chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant an aliphatic alcohol, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. Preferably, the fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

By "fatty acid" is meant a carboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

By "non-silicone" is meant a compound whose structure does not include a silicon atom and therefore does not include in particular a siloxane group.

By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than approximately 40°C and being able to go up to 200°C, and presenting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter the light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically detectable and macroscopically (opalescence).

fatty alcohols

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. , or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- lauric or lauryl alcohol (or 1-dodecanol);
- myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);
- cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);
- stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);
- arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);
- behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);
- lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);
- cerylic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);
- montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);
- myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that can be used can be chosen from esters derived from C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty acids and/or from C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty alcohols.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters can be esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-alcohols. -, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C ₂ -C ₂₆ .

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters can be chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, especially myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition(B)may comprise at least one solid fatty substance chosen from fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters derived from vegetable oil(s). More preferably, the composition(B) may comprise at least one solid fatty substance chosen from fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters derived from coconut oil.

Raincoats

The waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; Rice Bran Wax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Ouricury Wax, Alfa Wax, Berry Wax, Shellac Wax, Japan Wax, and Sumac Wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

The waxes can preferably be chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

Ceramides

The ceramides or analogues of ceramides such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; particular mention may be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogs which may be employed preferably correspond to the following formula:

in which :
- R1 denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a fatty acid saturated or unsaturated at C16-C30;
- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
- R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;
it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

It is also possible to use the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D -glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and their mixtures

Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

Preferably, composition (B) may comprise a total fat content ranging from 1% to 15%. More preferably, composition (B) may comprise a total fatty substance content ranging from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B) .

Preferably, the compositions (A) and (B) do not comprise a coloring agent and/or a reducing agent.

By "dyeing agents" is meant an agent for coloring keratin fibres, such as direct dyes, pigments or oxidation dye precursors (bases and couplers). It is recalled that the precursors of oxidation dyes, oxidation bases and couplers, are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species. As for direct dyes, these compounds are colored and have a certain affinity for keratin fibers.

By "reducing agent" is meant an agent capable of reducing the disulphide bonds of the hair, such as compounds chosen from thiols, alkaline sulphites, hydrides and phosphines.

The essays(AT)and or(B) may optionally comprise at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, C alcohols₂-VS₄, polyols, polyol ethers and mixtures thereof, preferably water.

The essays(AT)and or(B) may also comprise at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from the group consisting of nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, fillers, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents , sequestering agents, film-forming polymers, cationic, anionic or neutral polymers, associative polymers, plasticizers, silicones, thickening agents, antifoam agents, moisturizing agents, emollient agents, penetrating agents, perfumes, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

Composition (A) may have a pH greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 10, more preferably greater than or equal to 11.

Composition (B) may have a pH ranging from 2.5 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6.

Use

The present invention also relates to the use of compositions(AT)and(B) as defined above associated with a heating or cooling treatment of the keratin fibers using respectively a heating or cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers for the permanent deformation of the keratin fibers, preferably for smoothing or the straightening of keratin fibres. The technical characteristics described above concerning the heating or cooling means also apply to the use according to the present invention.

set

A subject of the present invention is also a kit for treating keratin fibers comprising a first, a second and a third compartment respectively comprising a composition (A) as defined above, a composition (B ) as defined above and means of heating or cooling coming into contact with the keratinous fibres. The technical characteristics described above concerning the heating or cooling means also apply to the kit according to the present invention.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without however being limiting.

Examples

The quantities are indicated in mass percentage unless otherwise indicated.

The following compositions were prepared and then tested according to the procedure described below:
Ingredients Composition (A ) Sodium Silicate 10% Urea 10% Distilled water Qsp 100%

Ingredients Membership (B) Cysteine 10% Distilled water Q.s.p. 100%

Procedure:
Use two identical strands of natural curly type IV hair. Apply 2 g/g hair of composition (A) to each of the locks.
Immediately coat each of the locks in an aluminum foil packet then maintain the locks at a temperature of 33°C using a hot plate. Let them rest for 30 minutes. Remove the foil. Apply 2 g/g hair of composition (B) to each of the locks. Immediately wrap the locks in an aluminum foil then keep the locks at a temperature of 33°C using a hot plate. Let them rest for 30 minutes.

On one of the two locks, perform 10 passages, lasting 10 s each, with an Inverse ® brand cooling straightener marketed by the company Roholm Limited maintained at a temperature of -15°C. Rinse both wicks with water. Let the two locks dry at room temperature.

Findings :
A strong reduction in the number of undulations is observed for the lock treated according to the process of the present invention which does not comprise a step of applying a cooling straightening iron. The lock treated according to the process of the present invention which includes a step of applying a cooling straightening iron appears even smoother. For the latter, it is also noted that the deformation is remanent to humidity and to shampoo.

Claims (20)

Process for treating keratin fibers comprising the following successive steps:
i) application to the keratin fibers of a composition(AT)comprising at least one water-soluble silicate; and
ii) application to the keratin fibers of a composition(B)comprising at least one compound(b)chosen from amino acids, oligopeptides, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof. Process according to Claim 1, in which the process is a process for the permanent deformation of the keratin fibres, preferably a process for smoothing or straightening the keratin fibres. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the method further comprises a step iii) of reducing the temperature of the keratin fibers, using a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers, the cooling means being preferably maintained at a temperature ranging from -20°C to 15°C, more preferably ranging from -15°C to 15°C, even more preferably ranging from -15°C to 0°C. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the cooling means is a tool for shaping keratin fibres, preferably chosen from cooling irons, cooling curlers and cooling combs, more preferably from cooling irons and cooling curlers, even more preferentially among the cooling irons. Process according to any one of Claims 1 or 2, in which the process additionally comprises a step iii') of raising the temperature of the keratin fibres, using a heating means coming into contact with the fibers keratinous materials, the heating means being preferably maintained at a temperature ranging from 25°C to 250°C, more preferably ranging from 100°C to 250°C, even more preferably ranging from 150°C to 230°C. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the heating means is a tool for shaping keratin fibres, preferably chosen from hot irons, hot combs and hot curlers, more preferably from hot irons. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein:
- the composition(AT)has a pH greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 10, more preferably greater than or equal to 11; and or
- the composition(B)has a pH ranging from 2.5 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the water-soluble silicate is chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates and their mixtures, preferably from sodium silicates, potassium silicates and their mixtures, more preferably from sodium silicates. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition(AT)comprises a total content of water-soluble silicate(s) ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 5% to 15%, more preferably from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(b)is chosen from amino acids, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, preferably from basic amino acids, polar neutral amino acids, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cysteine, serine, histidine and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the compound(b)is cysteine. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition(B)includes a total content of compound(s)(b)ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 5% to 15%, more preferably from 7% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(B). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition(AT)further comprises at least one compound(at)chosen from urea, urea derivatives, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the compound(at)is chosen from the compounds of formula(I)Where(II)following, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures:
[Chem 3]

in which :
▪ R1, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently of each other:
(i) a hydrogen atom; Where
(ii) a C1-C5 alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having from 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;
Being heard that :
- when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 can denote a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C1-C6)alkylcarbonyl radical such as acetyl, (C1-C6) alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical;
- when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 may represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 an acetyl radical;
- when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring;
- R1 and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring;
▪ R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other:
(i) a hydrogen atom or
(ii) a C1-C5 lower alkyl, acyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having from 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;
▪ A is a radical chosen from the radicals: CH2-CH2, CH=CH, CH2-CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH2 -CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH=C(CH3)-CO, NH-CO-NH, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, NH-CH2-NH, CO-CH (CH3)-CH2, CO-CH2-CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH2, CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH3), CO-C(NH2 )=CH, CO-C(CH3)=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH;
preferably urea. Process according to any one of claims 12 or 13, in which the composition(AT)includes a total content of compound(s)(at)ranging from 1% to 20%, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition(B)further comprises at least one fatty substance, preferably at least one solid fatty substance, more preferably at least one solid fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, even more preferably at least one solid fatty substance chosen from fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters derived from vegetable oil(s). Process according to the preceding claim, in which the composition(B)comprises a total fat content ranging from 1% to 15%, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(B). A method according to any of the claims further comprising:
- between steps i) and ii), a step i′) consisting in leaving the composition on(AT)on the fibers for a period ranging from 5 min to 30 min, preferably from 15 min to 30 min; and or
- after step ii), a step ii′) consisting in leaving the composition in place(B )on the fibers for a period ranging from 5 min to 30 min, preferably from 15 min to 30 min. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the process further comprises a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibers directly after step ii) or, where appropriate, directly after step ii') or the where appropriate after step iii) or iii'). Cosmetic use of the compositions(AT)and(B)as defined in any one of the preceding claims associated with a heating or cooling treatment of the keratin fibers using respectively a heating or cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers for the permanent deformation of the keratin fibers, preferably for smoothing or straightening keratin fibres. Keratin fiber treatment kit comprising a first, a second and a third compartment comprising respectively:
- a composition(AT)as defined in any one of the preceding claims; and
- a composition(B )as defined in any one of the preceding claims; and
- a heating or cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibres.