FR2951082A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful as cream, ointment or balm for protecting skin and/or hair, comprises film forming agent resistant to water, thickening agent, and shear thinning agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (I) comprises: at least one film forming agent impermeable and resistant to water; at least one thickening agent; and at least one shear thinning agent. Independent claims are included for: (1) manufacturing (I) comprising: (a) melting at least one thickening agent; (b) heating at least one film forming agent; (c) adding the film forming agent in the thickener; (d) lowering the temperature to a temperature not exceeding 40[deg] C and adding the mixture of shear-thinning agent, optionally an antioxidant and/or an active agent; (e) cooling the mixture obtained after step (d) to room temperature; and optionally adding perfume; (f) pouring the mixture obtained after step (e); and (2) protecting skin and/or hair upon contact with an aqueous medium, comprising spreading (I) to the skin and/or hair before immersing the skin and/or hair in the aqueous medium.

Description

The present invention relates to a film-forming composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the hair so as to form a continuous film adhering thereto in order to protect its user from various attacks caused during a longer or shorter stay in an aquatic environment according to its sporting and / or professional activities.

People who regularly and permanently come into contact with water during sports and / or professional activities may experience serious damage to the skin, which may spread to other tissues, in case of water pollution by substances or microorganisms that can enter the body.

This problem of lasting contact with water, including water treated with chemicals, such as chlorinated products, or seawater, can affect a large number of people in very varied activities.

More specifically and as an example, if only in the field of sports activities, you should know that the Ministry of Sports in France estimates 14 144 000 people who practiced swimming or diving at least once in the last 12 months (based on a 2003 survey of a sample of people aged 15 and over). This high use of swimming pools requires an effective treatment of water in general with chlorinated products.

In addition, the number of sports, recreational and mixed swimming pools in France (excluding bathing facilities) was estimated at 6,118. The number of private swimming pools in France is increasing, a doubling in ten years: 1,346,000 basins in 2007 for 14.9 million households (Source Federation of Pool Professionals). Most private pools are treated with chlorinated products.

Hypochlorites used to disinfect water and prevent the formation of bacteria in swimming pools are known for their harmful effects on tissues that are revealed following repeated and prolonged exposures, such as: - drying and aging of the skin - the weakening and weakening of the immune power of the skin, - the dulling and weakening of hair, - the premature destruction of hair colors and treatments, - the aggravation of dermatological problems such as eczema, dermatitis, dermatitis, psoriasis, dandruff, - the effects of tugging and irritation of the skin.

In fact, hypochlorites are inorganic substances that react chemically with the proteins of the hair and / or the skin and destroy its natural balance.

In addition, an extended stay in the water eliminates the hydrolipidic film protecting the skin and makes it more sensitive. In addition, the salt, in solution in seawater in particular, acts by an osmotic effect on the dehydration of the skin and as an irritant by topical effect or deposition of various salts in the epidermis.

Thus, from these various examples, various adverse effects resulting from an extended stay in the water, in particular in a swimming pool or in sea water, and which may be faced by many individuals, by their sports activities, emerge. and / or professional.

To date, there are few skincare products that are applied to the skin after it has been in prolonged contact with the water, particularly during a sporting activity.

There is known a commercially available composition which is in the form of a cream; it is a water-in-oil emulsion (oily continuous phase) and which comprises in particular the following compounds: polyvinylpyrrolidine and polyquaternium-51, namely film-forming and hydrophobic polymers having high affinities with the skin, having the function to isolate the skin from the external medium, dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, namely silicone compounds which enhance the hydrophobicity of the product, emulsifiers or surfactants.

This cream is applied in layers on the area of the skin exposed to aggression and protects against the effect of various chemical agents, such as household cleaners. The application is to renew regularly. By the presence of emulsifying agents in the composition, such a composition has a non-zero affinity with an aqueous medium: thus, this product once applied to the skin and again in contact with the water will be emulsified in the surrounding aqueous medium and will be gradually removed from the surface of the skin. This product is not suitable for application before contacting the skin with the aqueous medium to protect it from this medium.

In addition, there are state-of-the-art documents disclosing cosmetic compositions which, when applied to the skin are water resistant, by the formation of a water-resistant film. By way of example, mention may be made of patent application EP 1 163 896 A1, which describes a composition that makes it possible to obtain a film that is resistant to cold water and that is easy to remove with water. This composition comprises a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, as well as at least one thermal transition agent capable of having a change of state in a transition temperature range of from 25 ° C. to 80 ° C., and which is not soluble. in water at a temperature below this transition temperature. This invention, which certainly describes a water-resistant film-forming composition, is focused on so-called "waterproof" make-up products and is therefore not intended to provide a composition that protects the skin from the aggressions caused by prolonged contact. with water, especially chlorinated water.

There is thus existing state of the art the absence of products to prevent the occurrence of harmful effects of water on the skin caused by prolonged contact with the environment.

The present invention proposes to remedy this deficiency by providing a composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the hair to prevent the deleterious effects detailed above from occurring during prolonged contact with an aqueous medium. Furthermore, it is a film-forming composition which is distinguished by its constituents from that mentioned above as an example of a so-called "waterproof" cosmetic composition.

To meet this objective, the composition according to the present invention must have the lowest possible miscibility with water and therefore to understand non-emulsifiable and immiscible compounds in aqueous medium, and which are furthermore: - compatible with each other, - having good substantivity vis-à-vis the skin,

In addition, the composition should not have a tacky feel while being easily spread on the skin.

The invention resides in a cosmetic composition which comprises: at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent; at least one thickening agent; at least one rheofluidifying agent.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention, once applied to the skin, can withstand water during immersion for 2 to 5 hours, preferably between 1 and 2 hours, and that the water is from chlorinated water type 20 pool water, spas, jacuzzi or sea water, or warm water (of the order of 30 ° C) or hot water (from the order of 40 ° C).

The composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin and / or the hair in a more or less important layer. The thicker the layer, the more durable the protective effect of the composition according to the invention will be.

It is not mandatory to rinse to remove the composition according to the invention after immersion. This may be preferable for aesthetic reasons, particularly if the composition according to the invention has been applied to the hair. However, the composition according to the invention can be completely removed by rinsing and rubbing with soapy water (classic solid soap, shower gel, shampoo), as well as with warm or cold water.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin, preferably to sensitive areas such as the face, hands or feet. It can also be applied to injured parts of the body to protect them when immersed in water.

The localization of the application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention will depend on the activity practiced in the aqueous medium. For example, during certain professional activities, the composition according to the invention will be applied to the legs and / or the hands, since these are the parts of the body that will be in contact with the water. During activities in the pool, we can seek to protect the face, very sensitive to irritation. Therefore, for these activities, the composition according to the invention will be applied in particular on the face.

In the context of the present invention, the term "water-repellent film-forming agent" means an agent capable of forming a film on the skin and which is resistant during prolonged immersion in an aqueous medium up to 2 and 5 hours, preferably between 1 and 2 hours.

The impervious and water-resistant film-forming agent may be chosen from: polar oils, such as vegetable oils, consisting of triglycerides: glycerol esters with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, of chain length hydrocarbon compound of between 4 and 26 carbon atoms, and in particular jojoba oil, avocado oil, wheat germ or cereal oil, olive oil, macadamia oil, rose hip oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, sesame, sunflower, evening primrose, natural or synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 39 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a fatty alcohol or a polyol whose chain contains between 1 and 40 carbon atoms, and preferably between 3 and 20 carbon atoms, and in particular the esters of cetyl alcohol, such as cetyl acetate, cetyl propionate, cetyl stearate, , cetyl palmitate, but also isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, or myristic alcohol such as myristyl propionate, myristyl myristate, or esters such as caprylate / caprate, or the jojoba esters,

The film-forming agent may also be chosen from volatile oils. By volatile oil is meant a non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure in less than one hour. Non-polar hydrocarbon compounds such as isododecane or volatile silicone compounds, for example linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), may also be mentioned. The film-forming agent may also be chosen from non-volatile silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes and polyalkylmethylsiloxanes.

Preferably, the impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent is chosen from: jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis), even more preferably jojoba seed oil, rose oil musky (Rosa rubiginosa), - coco-caprylate / caprate, 20 - or a mixture thereof.

Said waterproof and water-resistant film-forming agent makes it possible to form a continuous flexible and adherent film on the skin once the composition according to the invention has been applied to the skin and / or the hair. The thickening agent may be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, synthetic or mineral origin. By wax is meant lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature, having a melting point of 30 ° C to 120 ° C, and having a reversible solid / liquid state change. Once melted, these waxes are miscible with the oils forming a homogeneous mixture macroscopically, but when returning to room temperature, there is recrystallization of the waxes within the oils. The thickening agent may be chosen from: waxes of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba, candelilla, avocado or rice bran; of mineral origin such as ozokerite, paraffin wax; of synthetic origin such as microcrystalline wax; pasty substances such as: saturated fatty alcohols having between 12 and 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol; saturated fatty acids having between 12 and 26 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; linear or branched esters, preferably of low molecular weight (less than 500), consisting of fatty acids, aliphatic or otherwise, containing between 8 and 40 carbon atoms, and aliphatic alcohols or polyols having between 1 and 40 carbon atoms, and, for example, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated castor oil, pasty fatty substances such as shea butter, mango, avocado , olive.

Preferably, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin or a mixture thereof is used as the thickener in the composition according to the invention. The mixture of glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin and glyceryl behenate is marketed by Gattefossé under the name Compritol® 888 25 CG ATO (INCI name: glyceryl dibehenate and tribehenin and glyceryl behenate).

In the context of the present invention, the term "rheofluidifying agent" is understood to mean a compound which has the effect of reducing the viscosity of the fluid (for example a composition) in which it is incorporated, and as the level of shear (velocity gradient) to which said fluid increases.

The rheofluidifying agent will facilitate the gripping and the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin and / or the hair.

The rheofluidifying agent may be silica or a starch gel. Preferably, silica is used as rheofluidifying agent. The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one compound chosen from preserving agents, antioxidants, perfumes, active principles, essential oils and flavorings.

The antioxidants can be chosen from polyphenols derived from grape seeds, olive trees, oaks, plant flavonoids (quercetin), essential oils extracted from spices or plants such as rosemary, sage and tocopherols. natural (vitamin E): a (present in the unsaponifiables of sunflower oil or olive oil), R (contained in the unsaponifiables of wheat germ oil, y (present in the unsaponifiables of soybean, rapeseed or corn oil), synthetic tocopherol (vitamin E) ascorbyl palmitate or synthetic antioxidants such as butylated hydroxytoluene or esters of gallic acid. sunflower seed (Helianthus annuus).

Preferably, the antioxidant is a mixture of tocopherol and sunflower seed oil (Helianthus annuus).

The tocopherol makes it possible to protect the fatty substances present in the composition of the oxidation due to the air, as well as photoinduced damages, without altering the appearance, the odor or the color of the composition.

The preservatives may be chosen from ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl monocaprylate, caprylyl glycol, gluconolactone, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol.

Preferably, glyceryl monocaprylate is used as a preservative.

The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise at least one perfume, at least one essential oil, at least one flavor, as well as active principles.

Essential oils of natural or synthetic origin can be chosen from lavender, lemon, sage, cardamom or orange oils. Preferably, the essential oil of orange or cardamom is used.

Preferably, the perfume is used as perfume cashmere.

Different active ingredients can be added to the composition according to the invention.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise: organic or inorganic sunscreens. The liposoluble organic compounds may be such as chosen from octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, octocrylene, benzophenone derivatives, alone or as a mixture. The inorganic filters that may be used may be metal oxides such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide alone or as a mixture - active agents known for their action on the epidermis, such as lipid compounds of a nature similar to that of intercellular cement and likely to be incorporated into this intercellular cement. Thus these compounds can play an active role in the regulation of hydration, maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. Mention may be made of ceramides of natural or synthetic origin, phospholipids, lecithins, polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid or vitamin F (present, for example, in sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, of cereal sprouts, rose hip, argan) and linolenic acid (present with linoleic acid for example in borage, evening primrose, Inca Inchi oils). Preferably, the active ingredient is a vegetable oil of Inca Inchi, namely the species Plukenetia volubilis.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise, by weight: 30 to 70% of at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent, 15 to 35% of at least one thickening agent, 5 to 20% of at least one rheofluidifying agent. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may further comprise 0.05 to 4% of at least one preservative and / or at least one antioxidant and 0.05 to 5% of perfume. .

In another even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may further comprise by weight: 0.05 to 4% antioxidant and / or preservative, 0.05 to 1% perfume 0.01 to 4% of active principle.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise by weight: 30 to 70% of at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent chosen from jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis), preferred method jojoba seed oil, rosehip oil (Rosa rubiginosa), cococaprylate / caprate, or a mixture thereof, - 15 to 30% of at least one thickening agent selected from glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, glyceryl behenate or a mixture thereof, - 5 to 20% silica, - 1 to 5% Inca Inchi oil.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise by weight: 5 to 10% of jojoba oil, preferably of jojoba seed oil, 1 to 3% of rose oil musky, - 25 to 55% coco-caprylate / caprate - 15 to 30% of at least one thickening agent selected from glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, glyceryl behenate, or a mixture thereof, - 5% Inca Inchi oil, - 0.05 to 2% tocopherol and / or sunflower seed oil, - 0.05 to 2% glyceryl monocaprylate, - 5 to 20% silica, - 0.05 to 1% of perfume.

The composition according to the present invention may be capable of fulfilling the criteria of the "ECOCERT" label, namely to comprise: a minimum of 95% of natural constituents or of natural origin on the total constituents of the composition, a minimum 95% of vegetable constituents certified "BIO" on the total of vegetable constituents, - a minimum of 10% of constituents certified "BIO" on the total of constituents.

The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing the composition according to the invention. This process comprises the following steps: a) at least one thickening agent is melted, b) at least one impervious and water-resistant film-forming agent is heated, c) at least one impervious and resistant to film-forming agent is added; in said at least one thickening agent, d) lowering the temperature to a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C and adding to the mixture thus obtained at the end of step c) at least one rheofluidifying agent optionally an antioxidant and / or an active ingredient, e) cooling the mixture thus obtained at the end of step d) at room temperature, and optionally adding at least one perfume, f) pouring the mixture thus obtained at the end of step e).

Preferably, step a) of the process according to the invention is carried out by melting said at least one thickening agent at a temperature of between 80 ° C. and 90 ° C. with stirring.

Preferably, step b) of the process according to the invention is carried out by heating with stirring said at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent at a temperature of between 70 ° C. and 80 ° C. Preferably, step c) of the process according to the invention is carried out by lowering the temperature to between 75 ° C. and 85 ° C. of the mixture in which the at least one a thickening agent and adding thereto with stirring said at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent.

Preferably, step d) of the process according to the invention is carried out, lowering the temperature so that it is between 30 ° C. and 40 ° C. and adding, with stirring, to the mixture thus obtained at the end of step c) at least one rheofluidifying agent, optionally an antioxidant and at least one active ingredient,

During this process according to the invention, the mixtures are preferably made with vigorous stirring, for example at 500 rpm, so as to make the mixtures homogeneous during the additions of the various constituents of the composition according to the invention.

Preferably, the mixtures of steps a) to d) are carried out using a Grenier-Charvet type disperser equipped with a deflocculating blade.

The mixture can be poured immediately into its packaging after obtaining a homogeneous mixture at the end of step f) of the process. After about 48 hours, the composition according to the invention will have taken its final structure (ie as soon as its maximum viscosity is obtained).

Temperature-sensitive antioxidants are added when the temperature has been lowered in step d). It can be tocopherol and sunflower seed oil. The preservatives can be added indifferently to any stage of the process according to the invention before the casting of step f).

The present invention also relates to a method of protecting the skin and / or the hair during contact with an aqueous medium, in particular chlorinated water. This method is characterized in that the composition according to the invention is spread on the skin and / or the hair before immersing the skin and / or the hair in the said aqueous medium, such as chlorinated water, in particular chlorinated pool water.

It may also be seawater. This process is particularly suitable when the aqueous medium is chlorinated pool water, namely having an active chlorine concentration of between 0.4 and 1.4 mg / l.

This method of protecting the skin is non-therapeutic.

The present invention also relates to a composition according to the invention in the form of a cream, an ointment, a balm.

A measurement of the water resistance was carried out on the composition according to the invention. It was necessary to determine the behavior of said composition on the skin immersed in demineralized or chlorinated water, under defined stirring conditions. The tests were carried out on two types of supports: - a SAN plate (Styrene-Acrylonitrile copolymer), and - a polyurethane synthetic skin, ref. 080527 from the company MAPRECOS. These supports were chosen according to their surface energy close to that of the skin: (surface energy of human skin: 25 mN / m, SAN used: 30 mN / m and for artificial skin: 24- 26 mN / m). It was a question of determining the quantity of composition according to the invention remaining on the support, after immersion, with stirring for 2 hours, in an aqueous medium: - pure water, or - water containing 3 mg / L in active chlorine, and this at 36 ° C ± 0.5 ° C by means of a thermostatic bath.

The amount of composition according to the invention deposited on the support was about 28 mg / cm 2 (± 4 mg / cm 2).

The active chlorine concentration in a swimming pool ranged from 0.4 to 1.4 mg / L. The composition according to the invention used for these tests comprised by weight: 60.8% of a mixture consisting of jojoba oil, rosehip oil and coco-caprylate / caprate, in such proportions that: the percentage by weight of the jojoba oil relative to the composition is between 5 and 10%, where the percentage by weight of the rose hip oil with respect to the composition is between 1 and 3% the percentage by weight of coco-caprylate / caprate relative to the composition is between 25 and 55%, 20% of glyceryl dibehenate, 15% of silica, 3% of an active ingredient, 0, 2% of an antioxidant, - 0.5% of a preservative, - 0.5% of perfume.

During each test, two "blanks", that is to say without depositing the composition were made. The results of the tests are summarized in Table 1 below. Medium Medium Composition% according to the invention remaining Skin demineralized water 98 ± 1 0/0 synthetic 3 mg / L active chlorine 97 ± 1 0/0 Demineralized water plate 97 ± 2% SAN 3 mg / L active chlorine 97 ± 2 Table 1: Percentage of composition according to the remaining invention expressed as a function of the carrier and the nature of the aqueous medium, after 2 hours immersion, with stirring at 36 ° C.

There is only a loss of 2% to 3% of the composition according to the invention and whatever the support tested. A second test of resistance to water in chlorinated water at 28 ° C. was carried out in same conditions (same stirring rate, same volume ratio, same active chlorine concentration) with a quantity of composition according to the invention deposited on the support on average of 10 mg / cm 2 (± 2 mg / cm 2).

It was found that it remained 97% (± 3%) of the composition according to the invention on the sample.

In addition, aging tests have been carried out on the composition according to the invention. The aging of a cosmetic product results in its physical and / or chemical degradation, namely by the modification of its odor, its color, its viscosity. An accelerated climate chamber method simulates aging in real time. It is generally accepted that a product that is stable for 3 months in an oven at 40 ° C will be stable for at least 3 years in normal use.

The aging tests were therefore performed as follows:

Glass pills containing the samples filled with the composition according to the invention were placed in parallel - in a refrigerator at 4 ° C, - in an oven at 40 ° C, and - at room temperature (darkness and light of day).

The observations made concern the organoleptic characteristics (odor, color) as well as the fluidity of the product. Samples were observed daily for one week, then weekly.

The results of these aging tests are summarized in the table below. It should be noted the following abbreviations: - j + 1: observation carried out the next day, - S + 1, S + 2, S + 3: observation carried out respectively after one, two and three weeks, - M + 1 : observation after one month, - RAS: indicates that no organoleptic changes (appearance, color, odor, feel, fluidity) were observed. 4 ° C 20 ° C 20 ° C 40 ° C (dark) (daylight) D + 1 SHOULDER RAS SHRINK RAS S + 1 SHANK SHRINK SHRINK RAS S + 2 SHIPPING SHORTS SHRINK SHRINK SHRINK S + 3 SHR RAS RAS softer M + 1 RAS produces RAS RAS RAS more flexible Table 2 Summary of the results obtained on the aging tests 10 performed on a composition according to the invention.

The following points are thus noted: The phenomenon observed at 4 ° C. corresponds to a particular crystallization of the fat without exudation of the oils. When the product is returned to room temperature, it finds all its organoleptic characteristics.

The results make it possible to validate the behavior of the composition according to the invention during accelerated aging.

Oxidation tests were carried out on a composition according to the invention. Oxidations represent the main alterations of unsaturated fats, leading to their oxidative rancidity. Depending on the reaction mechanisms used, the oxidations can be subdivided into: autooxidation, photooxidation, and enzymatic oxidation.

The "Rancimat" test is widely used to evaluate the oxidative stability of fats. The Rancimat test has been recognized as an official method internationally (ISO 6886) and by many countries such as the United States of America, Japan and Switzerland.

The specification of TIR (Rancimat Induction Time, expressed in hours) corresponds to the time during which the fat has resisted oxidative stress. It was therefore necessary to evaluate the oxidative stability of the composition according to the invention to verify the effectiveness of the antioxidant chosen and its content, and thus to check the durability of this composition.

The test consisted in prematurely aging a composition according to the invention by thermal decomposition at 120 ° C. under an intensive bubbling of air. Organic acids, degradation products of this extensive oxidation, were driven by a stream of air and collected in a measuring cell filled with distilled water. The induction time was determined by conductimetry and corresponds to the TIR.

The Rancimat test has the advantage of being able to follow several samples in parallel, with reduced analysis times. However, because of the drastic oxidation conditions (120 ° C, intensive bubbling of air), this test is not representative of normal storage conditions. Also, should the results of this test be interpreted with caution; they must above all be used to compare the oxidative stabilities of the fats with each other.

The composition according to the invention withstood intense oxidative stress for more than 48 hours. The risk of oxidation (rancidity) under normal conditions of use is therefore very low, even negligible. 35

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising: at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent; at least one thickening agent; at least one rheofluidifying agent. 2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it further comprises at least one compound selected from preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, active principles, essential oils, flavorings. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent is chosen from jojoba oil, rosehip oil, coco-caprylate / caprate, or a mixture thereof. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the at least one thickening agent is selected from glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, glyceryl behenate, or a mixture thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that the at least one rheofluidifying agent is silica or a starch gel. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the antioxidant is selected from tocopherol, sunflower seed oil, or a mixture thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that the preservative is chosen from ethylhexylglycerine, glyceryl monocaprylate, caprylyl glycol, gluconolactone, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 7 characterized in that the active ingredient is the vegetable oil of Inca Inchi. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 characterized in that it comprises by weight: - 30 to 70% of at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent, - 15 to 35% of at least one thickening agent, 5 to 20% of at least one rheofluidifying agent. 10.Composition according to claim 9 characterized in that it further comprises by weight: - 0.05 to 4% antioxidant and / or preservative, - 0.05 to 1% perfume, - 0, 01 to 4% of active ingredient. 11.Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 10 characterized in that it comprises by weight: - 30 to 70% of at least one waterproof and water-resistant film-forming agent chosen from jojoba oil, rose hip oil, coco-caprylate / caprate, or a mixture thereof, - 15 to 30% of at least one thickening agent selected from glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, glyceryl behenate, or a mixture thereof of these, 1 to 5% Inca Inchi oil, 5 to 20% silica. 12.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 characterized in that it comprises by weight: - 5 to 10% of jojoba oil, - 3% of rose hip oil, - 25 to 55 % of coco-caprylate / caprate, 25- 15-30% of at least one thickening agent selected from glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, glyceryl behenate, or a mixture thereof; Inca Inchi, - 0.05 to 2% tocopherol and / or sunflower seed oil, - 0.05 to 2% glyceryl monocaprylate, - 5 to 20% silica, - 0.05 to 1% of perfume. 13. A method of manufacturing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) melting at least one thickening agent, b) heating at least one impermeable film-forming agent and resistant to water, c) adding said at least one impermeable and water-resistant film-forming agent in said at least one thickening agent, d) lowering the temperature to a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C. and at least one rheofluidifying agent, optionally an antioxidant and / or an active ingredient, is added to the mixture thus obtained at the end of stage c) e) the mixture thus obtained is cooled after the completion of step d ) at room temperature, and optionally adding at least one perfume, f) pouring the mixture thus obtained at the end of step e). 14. A method of protecting the skin and / or the hair during contact with an aqueous medium, characterized in that spread on the skin and / or hair the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12. before immersing the skin and / or the hair in said aqueous medium. 15. The method of claim 14, characterized in that the aqueous medium has a concentration of active chlorine between 0.4 and 1.4 mg / L. 16. The method of claim 14 characterized in that the aqueous medium is sea water. 17.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 5 characterized in that said composition is in the form of a cream, an ointment, a balm.