FR2486800A1 - Unctuous cosmetic cream compsns. - comprising wax, oil and organo-clay, petrolatum and/or polyethylene grease - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic compsns. (esp. makeup bases) in the form of an anhydrous cream with an unctuous consistency comprise (a) 4-15 wt.% of at least one wax, (b) 0.02-2 wt.% of an organically modified montmorillonite and/or 4-12 wt.% petroleum and/or polyethylene grease, and (c) 50-90 wt.% of at least one non- volatile cosmetic oil. The compsn. must have a viscosity of 10-100 (pref. 25-70) cP. Component (a) can be carnauba wax, candelilla wax, a microcrystalline wax (m.pt. 60-110 deg.C), ozokerite, beeswax, lanolin alcohol (m.pt. above 50 deg.C), montan wax or rice wax. Component (b) can be (i) a reaction prod. of hectorite with dimethylbenzylstearylammonium chloride or di(hydrogenated tallow)-dimethylammonium chloride; (ii) petrolatum with a dropping point of 40-70 deg.C; and/or (iii) a polyethylene with a molecular wt. of 300-8000 and a dropping point of 30- 100 deg.C. The compsns. are easy to apply and can be stored for long periods without variations in consistency.

Description

 The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a cream, in particular for make-up, having the particularity of being anhydrous and of a creamy consistency.

 The makeup compositions may be in the form of a free or compact powder, or else in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil or oil-in-water type.

 The packaging of emulsions raises certain difficulties insofar as they must be in containers having a good seal, that is to say most often in a tube.

 For convenience of gripping, it is indeed preferable to use pots with a wide opening, but these lack tightness, which can cause poor preservation over time of the emulsions.

 So far few attempts have been directed towards obtaining a crime in an anhydrous form and having a smooth consistency such that it can be satisfactorily applied with the fingers from a package in the form of a pot.

 Indeed in this case one could also expect a lack of stability and the appearance of phenomena of hardening or salting out of oil at room temperature.

 By a particular choice of various fatty substances, that is to say oil (s) and wax (es) in perfectly defined proportions, the Applicant Company has been able to develop an anhydrous cream formula having excellent characteristics in particular good smoothness to facilitate application and good stability over time without any variation in its consistency being noted.

The subject of the present invention is, as a new industrial product, a cosmetic composition in the form of an anhydrous cream, of creamy consistency, characterized in that it contains:
(i) from 4 to 15% by weight of at least one wax,
(ii) from 0.2 to 2% by weight of an organically modified montmorillonite and / or from 4 to 12% by weight of petrolatum and / or polyethylene grease,
and (iii) from 50 to 90% by weight of at least one non-volatile cosmetic oil, said composition having a viscosity of between 10 and 100 poises.

 Preferably the viscosity is greater than 20 poises and is more particularly between 25 and 70 poises measured with EPPRECHT TV at 250C after 10 minutes of rotation.

 Although for any cosmetician the term "wax" is perfectly known, it will be recalled, however, that by this term is meant fatty substances present in the solid or semi-solid state at a temperature of 210C.

 Among the various waxes which meet this definition and which can be used in the creams according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of carnauba wax, candellila wax, a microcrystalline wax (of fusion 601000C), ozokerite, beeswax, lanolin alcohol (melting point above 500C), Montan wax and rice wax.

ou le chlorure d'ammonium de formule suivante:

dans laquelle:
R et R' représentent un mélange de restes alkyles dérivés de suif hydrogéné ayant de C14 à C20.By "organically modified montmorillonite" is meant more particularly according to the invention the reaction products of a Hectorite and of a quaternary ammonium salt such as dimethyl benzyl stearyl ammonium chloride of formula:

or ammonium chloride of the following formula:

in which:
R and R 'represent a mixture of alkyl radicals derived from hydrogenated tallow having from C14 to C20.

According to the invention, the organically modified montmorillonites are preferably used in the form of gels and more particularly the gels sold under the trade names of, "Bentone-Gel MIO", "Bentone-Gel IPM", "Bentone-Gel M 20", by the company NL Industries or the gel sold under the trade name of Miglyol-Gel by the company Dynamit
Nobel.

These gels are essentially made up of a mixture of:
- 8 to 12% of the reaction product of a Hectorite and a quaternary ammonium salt,
- 82 to 90% of a non-volatile cosmetic oil as defined below,
and from 2 to 3.5% of a wetting agent such as propylene carbonate.

 When according to the invention the gels thus defined are used, these are used in an amount of about 2.5 to 25% so that the final composition contains the required amount of organically modified montmorillonite.

 According to the invention the petroleum jelly is white petroleum jelly whose drop point can be between 40 and 700C approximately.

 By polyethylene grease "which can completely or partially replace petroleum jelly, is understood to mean low molecular weight ethylene polyers of between 300 and 8,000, preferably between 1,500 and 3,000, and having a drop point of between 30 and 1000C and preferably between 50 and 900C.

As polyethylene grease, it is very particularly possible to use, according to the invention, the grease sold by the
CDF Chimie company under the name "Grease GO 150".

 By the expression "non-volatile cosmetic oil" used according to the invention is meant liquid oils at a temperature less than or equal to 210C and having no evaporation at room temperature (18-250C).

 Among the oils of mineral, vegetable or animal origin which correspond to this definition, mention may be made of petroleum jelly, soybean oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil or perhydrosqualene.

 Mention may in particular be made, among synthetic oils, of esters or fatty alcohols such as isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate and ethyl-2 palmitate. hexyl, isopropyl lanolate, isononyl isononanoate, isotriddecyl isononanoate, oleic alcohol, triglycerides of saturated fatty acids of plant origin such as those sold under the trade names of Miglyols 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

The anhydrous creams according to the invention can be in the form of foundations or tinted creams and in this case contain from 1 to 16% by weight of at least one mineral or organic pigment.
Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are lakes such as calcium lakes from D and C Red n07, barium lakes from D and C Red n06 and 9, aluminum lakes from D and C
Red n03 and from D and C Yellow n05 and the zirconium lakes from D and C Orange n0 5. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of: oxides of iron (red, brown, black and yellow), of chromium, additionally seas (aluminosilicate polysulfides), titanium dioxide, manganese pyrophosphate and prussian blue (ferric ferrocyanide).

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention the foundations and tinted creams also contain from 4 to 20% by weight of at least one matting agent such as for example magnesium carbonate, starch or starches modified, polyethylene powder, nylon powder, magnesium or zinc stearate, zinc oxide, etc.

 The compositions according to the invention can also contain active products and various conventional additives such as preservatives, perfumes, antioxidants, sunscreens and fillers such as talc present up to 20% by weight.

 In order to better understand the invention, we will now give by way of illustration and without any limiting character, several examples of foundations.

EXAMPLE 1 An anhydrous foundation is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients:
% in weight
Raincoats:
- carnauba wax 3.00
- candellila wax 3.00
- microcrystalline wax (melting point
90-99 C 1.00 - White petrolatum (dropping point 62-670C 6.00 - Bentone Gel M-20 (propylene dicaprylate
86.7% glycol, reaction product
Hectorite and dimethyl chloride
benzyl stearyl ammonium 10%, carbonate
propylene 3.3%) 4.00
Oils::
- isostearyl neopentanoate 7.50
- isopropyl palmitate 10.00
- perhydrosqualene 10.00
- stabilized virgin sunflower oil 10.00
- 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 20.00 - Ditertiobutyl paracresol 0.10 - Titanium dioxide .......................... titanium 6, 00 - Iron oxide yellow ...................... yellow 1.20 - Iron oxide red ............. .......... red 1.00 - Iron oxide black .......................... black 0.20 - Talc .................................... Talc 6.00 - Nylon powder ..... ....................... nylon 6.00 - Extra purified magnesium carbonate
light 5.00
100.00
This foundation has a viscosity of 30 poises measured with EPPRECHT-TV at 250C after 10 minutes of rotation.

 N.B: in this example the% by total weight of non-volatile oils is 61% taking into account the oil present in the Bentone-Gel M-20.

EXAMPLE 2 An anhydrous foundation is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients:
% in weight
Raincoats:
- ozokerite 6.00
- beeswax 2.00
- lanolin alcohol 2.50 - Polyethylene grease (approximately PM
2500) 6.00 - Bentone Gel MIO (isopropyl myristate
86.7%, Hectorite reaction product
and dimethyl benzyl chloride
10% stearyl ammonium carbonate
propylene 3.3%) ............................ 3.3%) 4.50
Oils::
- soybean oil ......................... soybean 5.00
- vaseline oil 27.90
- triglycerides of saturated fatty acids
of plant origin ........... plant 19.00
- stabilized oleic alcohol 3.00 - Ditertiobutyl paracresol 0.10 - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.10 - Titanium dioxide * 6.28 - Yellow iron oxide .............. 1.50 - Red iron oxide ......................... red 1.00 - Black iron oxide ........... ............... black 0.12 - Talc ............................. ....... Talc 7.00 - Polyethylene powder sold under the
commercial name of "LOTRENE" by
CdF Chemistry of molecular weight
about 20,000 ........................... 20,000 4.00 - Corn starch ester .......... ........... But . 4ç00
100.00
This foundation has a viscosity of 35 poises measured with EPPRECHT TV at 250C after 10 minutes of rotation.

 N.B: in this example the% by total weight of nonvolatile oils is 58.80% taking into account the oil present in the Bentone Gel MIO.

EXAMPLE 3 An anhydrous foundation is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients:
% in weight
Raincoats:
- candellila wax 2.00
- ozokerite 2.00
- lanolin alcohol 2.00 - Vaseline ................................ Vaseline 12.00
Oils:
- isopropyl myristate 10.00
- isopropyl stearate 15.00
- virgin sunflower oil 13.00
- isotridecyl isononanoate 20.00 - Ditertiobutyl para-cresol 0.1 - Talc ................................ .... Talc 7.00 - Magnesium carbonate 8.00 - Titanium oxide ............................ titanium 7, 00 - Iron oxide yellow .. 1.10 - Iron oxide red ........................ red 0.70 - Iron oxide black. ......................... black 0.10
100.00
This foundation has a viscosity of 20 poises measured at EPRECHT TV at 250C after 10 minutes of rotation.

EXAMPLE 4 An anhydrous foundation is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients:
% in weight
Wax:
- ozokerite 4.00
- beeswax 2.00
- microcrystalline wax (melting point
930C) 2.00 - Miglyol gel (triglycerides of caprylic acids
and capric 86.7%; reaction product
Hectorite and dimethyl benzyl chloride
10% stearyl ammonium; carbonate
propylene 3.3%) .............. .............. 3.3%) 11.00
Oils:
- isopropyl palmitate 10.00
- perhydrosqualene 4.00
- isononyl isononanoate 20.00
- extra refined sesame oil 21.60 - Ditertiobutyl para-cresol 0.10 - Talc ................. Talc 4.00 - Polyethylene powder 4.00 - Carbonate magnesium 5.00 - Zinc oxide 3.00 - Titanium oxide 7.00 - Yellow iron oxide 1.00 - Red iron oxide - 0.80 - Black iron oxide 0.20 - Perfume 0.30
100.00
This foundation has a viscosity of 50 poises measured at EPRECHT TV at 250C after 10 minutes of rotation.

Claims (11)

 1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an anhydrous cream, of creamy consistency, characterized in that it contains:  (i) from 4 to 15% by weight of at least one wax,  (ii) from 0.2 to 2% of an organically modified montmorillonite and / or from 4 to 12% by weight of petrolatum and / or polyethylene grease,  and (iii) from 50 to 90% by weight of at least one non-volatile cosmetic oil, said composition having a viscosity of between 10 and 100 poises.  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax is taken from the group consisting of carnauba wax, candellila wax, a microcrystalline wax (of melting point 60-1000C), ozokerite, beeswax, lanolin alcohol (melting point above 500C), Montan wax and rice wax.  3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organically modified montmorillonite is the reaction product of a Hectorite and a quaternary ammonium salt such as dimethyl-benzyl-stearyl ammonium chloride or ammonium chloride of formula:

 in which:  R and R 'represent a mixture of alkyl radicals derived from hydrogenated tallow having from C14 to C20.  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the petroleum jelly is white petroleum jelly whose drop point is between 40 and 700C approximately.  5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyethylene grease is an ethylene polymer of molecular weight between 300 and 8,000 and having a dropping point between 30 and 1000C.  6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is taken from the group consisting of: petrolatum oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, perhydrosqualene, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, lanolate isopropyl, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, oleic alcohol, triglycerides of saturated fatty acids of plant origin and hydrogenated polyisobutene.  7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the viscosity is preferably between 25 and 70 poises.  8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 1 to 16% by weight of at least one mineral or organic pigment.  9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains from 4 to 20% by weight of at least one matting agent.  10. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the matting agent is magnesium carbonate, starch or modified starches, polyethylene powder, nylon powder, magnesium stearate or zinc or zinc oxide.  11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains conventional active products and additives such as preservatives, perfumes, antioxidants, sunscreens or fillers such as talc