EP4770611A1

EP4770611A1 - Cosmetic use of a rosa gallica extract

Info

Publication number: EP4770611A1
Application number: EP24776353.5A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Delphine Gely; Amandine FISCHER DESNOS
Original assignee: Crodarom SAS
Current assignee: Crodarom SAS
Priority date: 2023-09-01
Filing date: 2024-08-30
Publication date: 2026-07-08
Also published as: FR3152405A1; WO2025046524A1

Abstract

The present invention provides the use of a Rosa gallica extract or a composition comprising said extract and a physiologically acceptable medium, for a topical anti-glycation cosmetic treatment. The treatment can be used to detoxify the skin and its appendages, in particular to prevent loss of suppleness of the skin, improve the radiance of the skin and its appendages, prevent skin fatigue and prevent brittle hair. The extract may be a flower extract, in particular a petal extract, and may be obtained by various techniques, preferably using ultrasound.

Description

COSMETIC USE OF A ROSA GALLICA EXTRACT

The present invention relates to the use of an extract of Rosa gallica and a composition comprising said extract for a cosmetic treatment, in particular a topical treatment.
« Cosmetic or cosmeceutical treatment » means a treatment which treats healthy skin and/or skin appendages, said treatment being intended to improve or beautify their appearance and condition. Such treatment has no therapeutic purpose.
The present invention relates particularly to the cosmetic industries, which manufacture products intended for the treatment of the skin, including the scalp, mucous membranes and the appendages (such as body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair) of mammals, animals or humans, in order to improve appearance and/or general condition.
These industries are in increasing demand for new products, particularly new active ingredients that are derived from plants, because they offer a combination of efficacy, reduced risks of irritation and allergy, reduced side effects and biodegradability, with the possibilities of labelling / certification and compliance with a logic of sustainable development and/or fair trade.
The genus Rosa includes around 200 different species, such as Rosa gallica. This species is also known as the French rose or Provins rose. Rosa gallica is a species of rose native to central and southern Europe and Asia Minor, from Turkey to the Caucasus. The main sites are currently in the Alps, at altitudes of 500 to 900 meters.
These are ancient roses, often described by botanists as far back as Pliny the Elder in the 1st century AD. They are renowned for their tonic and astringent properties, as well as their perfuming power.
Rose extracts are often used in cosmetics. They are known for their various cosmetic properties, particularly moisturising and anti-ageing.
For example, FR3099370 patent describes an extract of rose stems to protect the skin and combat ageing, to protect the skin from the aggressions of pollution and blue light.
In another example, given in the FR2991169 patent, a rose bud extract is recommended for anti-ageing and/or cellulite treatment.
Another example is given in KR10-2420544 patent application, which describes a rose flower extract for preventing skin ageing.
The purpose of the present invention is to propose a new non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment for improving or beautifying the general condition of the skin and its appendages using a Rosa gallica extract.
To this end, the present invention provides the use of an extract of Rosa Gallica or of a composition comprising it for a topical non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages against glycation.
Glycation is characterized as follows.
The human body needs sugar to produce energy. However, the sugar that is consumed is never used in its entirety by the body for this beneficial purpose. A residual portion of this absorbed sugar reacts non-enzymatically with the amino groups of proteins, nucleic acids or lipids to create advanced glycation products, known as glycotoxines or Advanced Glycosylated End Products (AGEs), which accumulate over time in tissues. The functional, enzymatic and structural properties of glycosylated molecules are altered, with consequences for the proper functioning of cells and the body.
In the skin, AGEs are found not only in the dermis but also in the epidermis, even in the stratum corneum. Tissues are especially affected if their proteins are long-lasting, such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and laminins. The consequence is a deterioration of the mechanical and elastic properties of the extra-cellular matrix (ECM) of the dermis, making it less supple and less toned, but also more sagging and less reactive.
In addition, mitochondrial proteins in skin cells are also glycated, resulting in reduced efficiency in the manufacture of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and a deficiency in energy production.
AGEs are therefore a major source of cellular dysfunction, and their accumulation tends to alter the properties and performance of tissues and cells: less flexibility, less mobility, less reactivity, and less energy production. On the face, glycation leaves its distinctive mark, for example, dark circles under the eyes, puffy bags, a dull complexion and drawn features, skin that is more reactive, tired, and saggy. One study also showed that the quantity of AGEs and the quality of hair are linked. A reduction in protein content and an increase in AGEs content results in lowest hair quality with reduced resistance to breakage.
The visual effects of glycation on the skin are the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, lack of radiance, dull and tired-looking skin that lacks tone and suppleness, and lower quality, split ends and brittle hair.
There is therefore a real need in this area of cosmetic products to counteract these unsightly visual effects.
Test results are given later in the description, demonstrating the anti-glycation effects of Rosa gallica extract and the in-vivo effects on skin radiance.
The treatment according to the invention can prevent or, slow down glycation of skin and its appendages. Glycation is independent of age. The treatment according to the invention is therefore not an anti-ageing treatment. It can be used on young skin.
More particularly, the treatment according to the invention is suitable for preventing hair breakage, i.e. preventing hair from breaking, preventing the appearance of split ends, and/or detoxifying the skin and its appendages.
Even more particularly, the treatment according to the invention is suitable for:
- increasing the strength of the hair; and/or
- prevent loss of skin suppleness; and/or
- improve the radiance of the skin and its appendages; and/or
- prevent skin fatigue.
The Rosa gallica extract according to the invention can be made from the whole plant or from one or more parts of the plant such as the leaf, stem, flower, fruit, seed and/or root. Preferably, it is made from the flowers and more particularly from the petals.
Rosa gallica extract according to the invention may be obtained by the usual solid/liquid extraction techniques including, for example, maceration, simple decoction, infusion, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction by subcritical or supercritical fluid, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves, zeodratation or any other physical and/or chemical method, such as distillation, percolation, digestion, cryoextraction, enzymatic digestion, etc.
« Maceration » means a process consisting of soaking a plant or part of a plant in an extraction solvent at room temperature.
« Infusion » means a process consisting of bringing the extraction solvent to the boil before pouring it onto the plant or part of the plant.
« Decoction » means a process consisting of blending the plant or the part of plant with the extraction solvent, then heating the mixture at the boiling point.
« Digestion » means a process consisting of blending the plant or the part of plant with the extraction solvent, then heating the mixture below boiling point.
Preferentially, the Rosa gallica extract according to the invention is obtained by extraction using ultrasound. Ultrasound-assisted extraction allows to obtain extracts comprising natural compounds in a very short time, from a few minutes to several hours, depending on the chemical family of extractable compounds, and with very high reproducibility. The frequency of the generators varies from 20 kHz to 20,000 kHz. Preferably, according to the invention, conventional power ultrasound (also known as low-frequency ultrasound) with a generator frequency of between 20 and 100 kHz is used. The advantage of extraction using ultrasound is that it can be carried out at low temperature, preferably between 20°C and 60°C. This ensures that the molecules that contain the plant are not denatured.
Extraction with ultrasound is carried out in at least one solvent chosen from: water, glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol of any molecular weight, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, hexylene glycol, but also ethanol, propanol, butanol and other polyols (propanediol, pentanediol, hexanol, sorbitol and other liquid sugars) as well as all mixtures of these solvents. Preferably, the extraction solvent is a mixture of at least one glycolic solvent and at least one aqueous solvent, more preferably a glycerine/water mixture.
The extract of Rosa gallica used according to the invention is rich in polyphenols, particularly flavonoids, but also rich in carbohydrates, minerals, organic acids, and proteins.
The extract according to the invention may be used as it is or in a composition, diluted in a physiologically acceptable medium. The nature of the medium is defined as a function of the properties of the Rosa gallica flower extract, and also as a function of the destination of the composition formed: simple ingredient, more sophisticated galenic form of a final composition for the consumer.
Physiologically acceptable medium" means according to the present invention, without limitation, an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a micro-emulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, or a powder.
"Physiologically acceptable" means that the compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with mucous membranes, appendages (nails, hair and body hair), scalp and skin of mammals, particularly human, compositions which may be ingested, or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others. This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms what is commonly called the excipient of the composition.
According to the invention, the physiologically acceptable medium can be an aqueous, hydroglycolic or hydroalcoholic solution, or a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a microemulsion. Preferably again, it is hydroglycolic. Preferably again, the physiologically acceptable medium is a blend of glycerin and water.
The present invention thus provides a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for beautifying or improving the appearance and general condition of the skin and/or its appendages and for treating imperfections, in a subject in need thereof, comprising the application of an effective amount of the Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it, in a physiologically acceptable excipient, said treatment being an anti-glycation treatment.
The "effective" amount of Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention, i.e. its dosage in the composition, depends on the intended use of the composition. It depends on various factors, such as the age and condition of the patient and the severity of the disorder. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to obtain the desired effect.
In a cosmetic composition comprising Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention containing at least one oligosaccharide, to be present in an effective amount, it is generally present in an amount ranging from 0.000001% and 15% based on the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.00001% and 10%, depending on the destination of the composition and the more or less pronounced desired effect. More preferably, the effective amount is between 0.0001% and 5% based on the total weight of the composition.
All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25°C unless it is otherwise specified. According to other features, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may be combined with one or more other treatment methods targeting the skin such as luminotherapy, heat or aromatherapy treatments.
According to the invention, devices with several compartments or kits may be proposed to apply the method described above which may include for example and non-restrictively, a first compartment containing a composition comprising Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention, and in a second compartment an additional active ingredient, the compositions contained in the said first and second compartments in this case being considered to be a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or stepwise use in time, particularly in one of the treatment methods described above.
For indication, for a cosmetic face treatment, the European standard dosage of a cream is 2.72 mg/cm²/day/person and for a cosmetic body treatment the European standard dosage of a lotion is 0.5 mg/cm²/day/person.
According to other advantageous features, the Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention may be associated with one or more other active ingredients at effective concentrations that can act synergistically or additionally for reinforcing and achieving the desired effects described for the invention, such as the following agents: lightening, anti-seborrheic, anti-redness and calming active ingredients, for the treatment of brittle hair, for the treatment of sensitive skin, filtering radiation, in particular UVA, UVB, IR, from blue light, moisturising, humectant, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and anti-fine lines active ingredients, improving mechanical and elastic properties, radiance, detoxifying active ingredients, hair regrowth inhibitors, skin barrier active ingredients, anti-acne active ingredients, sebum secretion inhibitors, mattifying active ingredients, unifying active ingredients, soothing active ingredients, antioxidants, radical scavengers, anti-glycation, eye contour (anti-dark circles and anti-puffiness), blood circulation inhibitors, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), peptides, vitamins, ceramides, etc. These active ingredients may be obtained from plant materials, such as plant extracts or products of plant culture or fermentation production methods.
Advantageously, the Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention can be used in combination with an active ingredient that filters radiation from blue light.
The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc. (CTFA), Washington, D.C., describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skincare industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in compositions according to the present invention, as long as they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition and especially with the active agents of the present invention. Moreover, the nature of these additional ingredients must not impair the benefits of the active agents of the invention. These additional ingredients may be synthetic or natural, such as plant extracts, or be derived from a biofermentation method.
Other skincare active agents that are particularly useful in combination with the composition according to the invention can be found in the sales literature of Crodarom, Sederma and on the website www.croda.fr.
More specifically, the Rosa gallica extract according to the invention can be combined with at least one compound chosen among vitamin compounds, group B C, E, F, D and A, especially compounds as niacinamide, tocopherol or thiamine, retinoids compounds as retinol, hyaluronic acid, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA, peptides, aminoguanidine, rosmarinic acid, rutin, quercetin, catechin, baicalein, camphor derivatives, hesperidin which are classic active ingredients used in topical cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical compositions.
Furthermore, the present invention provides the use of a Rosa gallica extract, as described above, for the manufacture of a composition for a cosmetic anti-glycation treatment, as described above.
The composition for the use according to the invention may be provided in any galenic form (examples are given below) defined according to the composition destination and application site.
A composition according to the invention may be applied to the face, body, neckline, scalp, hair, eyelashes, body hair, in any form or vehicle known to those skilled in the art, in particular in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or as a premix or vehicle individually or as a premix in a bound form, incorporated or adsorbed in vectors such as macro-, micro-, or nanocapsules, macro-, micro- or , nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro or nanosponges, micro- or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on organic polymer powders, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines, and other inorganic or organic supports.
In cosmetics, applications may be proposed particularly in the ranges of skin care for the face, body, hair and body hair and ranges of make-up treatments, in particular eyelashes and eyebrows.
For example, the galenic form of the composition may be a lotion, a cream, a butter, a milk, a solid form, a foam, a gel, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a face mask, a shower gel, etc.
For example, in the case of anti-glycation use, the galenic form of the composition may be a cream suitable for the face, the whole body and/or the hair and scalp.
The galenical formulations may enter in different product ranges for personal care and/or beauty products including skin care, cleaning, makeup, cleansing, sunscreen, artificial tanning, pre-shave, shaving or aftershave, moisturizer, humectant, emollient, conditioning, exfoliating, astringent, depilatories or antiperspirant, deodorant, etc.
The composition may be incorporated onto a non-woven or woven material, with natural or synthetic fibres, wool, or any material intended to come into contact with skin and that may be used in clothing, including tights and socks, shorty, day or night underwear, tissues, handkerchiefs or fabric to exert its cosmetic effect via the contact skin/textile and enable continuous topical delivery (cosmetic textiles).
According to the invention, a woven or non-woven material comprising at least one Rosa gallica flower extract is also proposed for use in a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

A greater appreciation of the present invention will be obtained in the light of the detailed description of working examples, studies and figures which are described below.

Examples of obtaining a Rosa gallica extract according to the invention and a composition comprising it.

Plant material: Rosa gallica flowers

Extraction process: ultra-sound

Extraction solvent: water-glycerin (20 :80)

Protocol: The flowers are extracted by ultrasound in a water-glycerin mixture for 20 minutes to 6 hours, then the extract is filtered to remove solid plant debris. Several successive filtrations are carried out, with a particle size of between 50 and 0.1 µm. The filtered extract constitutes the extract according to the invention.

Advantageously, this process allows to obtain a flavonoid-rich Rosa gallica extract with a flavonoid content of between 5 and 20% by weight based on the weight of the dry extract. This family of molecules is identified by UV/visible spectrophotometry.

To obtain a composition comprising the extract according to the invention, the filtered macerate obtained is mixed with a physiologically acceptable matrix consisting of a water-glycerin mixture. The water: glycerin ratio in the composition is between 0:100 and 30:70. This composition constitutes an active ingredient according to the invention.

Example of a galenic formulation

Cosmetic formulation of cream is described below, including the active ingredient according to the invention described in point A. above.

This ingredient is recommended in a composition at a level of 1 to 5%, preferably 3%. These levels can vary without departing from the scope of the present invention, depending on the more or less pronounced effects sought.

Additional active ingredients, acting in support and/or in addition to the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention may be added in the appropriate phase according to their hydrophobic, hydrophilic or amphiphilic nature. These ingredients can be of any category according to their function(s), the place of application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, etc.), the desired end effect and the targeted consumer, for example specific anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, anti-dark circles, firming, anti-glycation, slimming, soothing, myo-relaxing, anti-redness, sensitive skin, anti-stretch marks, mattifying, etc.

Starting materials	%	INCI Name
Phase A
Water	qsp	Aqua
Carbomer	0.20	Carbomer
Phase B
Arlacel^TM 170	1.00	Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate
Crodacol™ CS90-PA-(RB)	1.50	Cetearyl alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate
Crodamol™ GTCC	3.00	Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Phase C
Crodamol™ AB-LQ-(RB)	1.50	C12-15 Alkyl benzoate
Pemulen TR2	0.20	C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Phase D
Glycerol	2.00	Glycerin
Caprylyl glycol	0.50	Caprylyl glycol
Phase E
Phenoxyethanol	0.80	Phenoxyethanol
Phase F
Potassium sorbate	0.15	Potassium sorbate
Phase G
Water	4.00	Aqua
NaOH 35%	0.37	Sodium hydroxide
Phase H
Active ingredient according to the invention	3.00	/

Protocol:

For phase A, sprinkle the carbomer into the water, leave to swell and heat. Weigh and heat phase B. Weigh and melt phase D. Weigh phase E, add phase E to phase D. Add phase D+E to phase A, homogenise. Add phase B to phase A+D+E, with stirring. Weigh and add phase C to phase A+B+D+E, with stirring. Weigh and add phase F to phase A+B+C+D+E, homogenise. Weigh and add phase G to phase A+B+C+D+E+F, homogenise. Weigh and add phase H to phase A+B+C+D+E+F+G, homogenise.

Examples of other ingredients that may be added to these formulations:

To reinforce anti-glycation activity:

Phytessence^TM Pink pomelo EC: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, which accelerates cell renewal through gentle, skin-friendly exfoliation.

AHA Phytocomplex^TM: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, which helps to exfoliate, revitalise, and smooth the skin.

Complementary to the activity:

Crodarom® Nordic Cotton: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to help strengthen the skin's barrier function, soothe the most sensitive skin, moisturise, and protect the hair.

Zanthocare^TM: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, with balancing and soothing properties, which reduces unpleasant odours while acting on skin and emotional well-being.

Synchrolife ^TM: active ingredient marketed by Sederma, which counteracts the harmful effects of blue light, leading to signs of fatigue and premature ageing.

Test demonstrating the anti-glycation activity of the extract according to the invention: non-enzymatic glycation of BSA (bovine serum albumin)

Protocol

The study of non-enzymatic glycation is carried out between a model protein, serum albumin, which serves as a target, and an edible reducing sugar from fruits. The protein is progressively and irreversibly glycated (bound to the sugar), in the presence or absence of the product of the invention. This modification is monitored by fluorescence.

Results

Variation in glycation (n=4). Effect of the extract according to the invention at 1% and 3% compared with the control:

	Variation (%); significance
Control case	Reference
1 % of the extract according to the invention	- 84 %; p<0.01
3 % of the extract according to the invention	- 89 %; p<0.01

The results show the strong anti-glycation potential of the extract according to the invention.

In-vivo assessment of skin radiance

Protocol

The study was carried out on 31 volunteers: 5 men and 26 women, with an average age of 52 (40-70 years).

Inclusion criteria: Men or women in good health, aged between 40 and 70, with dry skin and phototype II to V.

Exclusion criteria:

- Allergy or reactivity to certain components of the product, or to a product of a similar category to the one tested.

- Surgery in the facial area.

- Relevant skin marks in the experimental areas which may interfere with the measurements (scars, sunburn, etc.).

- Relevant pharmacological or hormonal treatment in use.

- Presence of skin diseases or melanomas.

- Anticipation of relevant routine or lifestyle changes during the study period.

- No excessive exposure to UV (including artificial UV).

Type of study, duration, applications

Product tested: Cream containing the composition according to the invention described in point B. vs. placebo cream, i.e. with the same chassis as the cream but without the active ingredient according to the invention.

The volunteers were unaware of the type of product (active according to the invention or placebo). They were asked to apply it twice a day.

The volunteers answered a questionnaire about the condition of their skin at T=0 and T=28 days. They could answer the questions by: strongly disagree, disagree, agree or strongly agree. Positive responses include both agree and strongly agree responses.

Statistics

Statistical calculations are performed using a Khi² test. The 0.05 level is chosen as the minimum acceptance point for statistical significance.

Results

Variation in skin radiance. Effect of the cream containing the active ingredient according to the invention vs. the placebo cream after 28 days of application:

	Cream comprising the ingredient according to the invention	Placebo cream
Improvement of radiance; significance	81%; p<0.01	71%; p<0.05
% improvement of the cream according to the invention vs. the placebo cream; significance vs. placebo	+10%; dns

* dns: data not significant

The results show that the cream containing the ingredient according to the invention has a higher satisfaction rate in terms of skin radiance than the placebo cream.

Claims

Use of a Rosa gallica extract or a composition comprising it for a non-therapeutic topical anti-glycation cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages.
Use according to the claim 1, wherein the treatment is adapted to prevent brittle hair and/or detoxify the skin and its appendages.
Use according to the claim 1 or 2, wherein the treatment is adapted to:
- increase the resistance of the hair, and/or
- prevent a loss of flexibility of the skin, and/or
- improve the radiance of the skin complexion and its appendages, and/or
- prevent skin fatigue.
Use according to the claim 1 to 3, wherein said extract is a flower extract.
Use according to the claim 4, wherein said flower extract is a petal extract.
Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract is produced by ultrasonic extraction.
Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises said extract diluted in a physiologically acceptable medium.
Use according to the claim 7, wherein the medium is hydroglycolic.
Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said extract is associate with one or more other active ingredients selected from brightening, anti-blue light, anti-dark spots, moisturizers, humectants, exfoliants, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkles and fine lines, improving the mechanical and elastic properties of the skin, detoxifiers, acting on the skin barrier, mattifying, unifying, anti-oxidants, anti-free radicals, anti-glycants, UV sun filters, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, peptides, vitamins and ceramides.