EP4734947A1

EP4734947A1 - A personal care composition

Info

Publication number: EP4734947A1
Application number: EP24732213.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Xuelan GU; Xue Xiao
Original assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV
Current assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV
Priority date: 2023-06-29
Filing date: 2024-06-06
Publication date: 2026-05-06
Also published as: WO2025002754A1; MX2025015177A; CN121419760A

Abstract

Disclosed is a personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and moringa oil wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.00001% and no greater than 10% by weight of the composition.

Description

A PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITION

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and moringa oil. It was unexpectedly found that such composition is capable of synergistically upregulating the expression of FLG2 gene.

Background of the Invention

Skin is an organ that protects the body from external stressors like heat, UV, pollutants, allergens, pathogens etc. It also prevents loss of moisture. The protective role of skin is carried out by epidermal or skin barrier. The skin barrier consists of different layers of stratified cells and the outermost layer consists of corneocytes embedded in a layer of lipids. The major constituents of corneocytes are proteins like keratin, filaggrin etc. These proteins are essential for the formation and maintenance of a healthy skin barrier. Any damage or dysfunction of these proteins lead to defective barrier and associated skin conditions like dryness, atopic dermatitis increased susceptibility to skin infections, inability to support a healthy microbiome etc.

Among the skin proteins, filaggrin play a pivotal role in maintaining healthy barrier. It is a structural protein involved in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes. Proteolysis of filaggrin releases free amino acids and these free amino acids are the important constituents of natural moisturization factor (NMF) which imparts skin hydration. Filaggrin maintains barrier integrity thereby preventing entry of pathogens, and other irritants and allergens. Loss of filaggrin results in skin conditions like atopic dermatitis, an inflammatory skin condition manifested as dry, itchy and flaky skin. Filaggrin also helps in maintaining a healthy microbiome by protecting the skin from pathogens. One of the mechanisms by which moisturizers function is by boosting filaggrin in skin. Increasing filaggrin levels on skin is a well-accepted approach for maintaining or improving skin health. Upregulating the expression of filaggrin genes typically leads to an increase in filaggrin production.

Therefore, the present inventors have recognized that there is a need to develop solution to enhance the expression of filaggrin 2 gene (FLG2). It was surprisingly found that by combining carboxymethyl cysteine and moringa oil, the expression of FLG2 gene was significantly upregulated. Summary of the Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to a personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and moringa oil wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.00001% and no greater than 10% by weight of the composition.

In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to a method of providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of enhancing filaggrin production in the skin, improving skin barrier health, upregulating the expression of filaggrin gene comprising a step of topically applying to the skin the composition of the composition of the present invention.

In a third aspect, the present invention is directed to use of the composition of the present invention for providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of enhancing filaggrin production in the skin, improving skin barrier health, upregulating the expression of filaggrin gene.

All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent upon considering the detailed description and examples which follow.

Detailed Description of the Invention

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.

All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.

It should be noted that in specifying any range of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value.

For the avoidance of doubt, the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of’ or “composed of’. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive.

The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis.

The carboxymethyl cysteine compound refers to compound selected from carboxymethyl cysteine, salt of carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, amide of carboxymethyl cysteine or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, and/or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. More preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, and/or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. Even more preferably, carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. Still even more preferably the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate and most preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate.

The carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.00001%, more preferably at least 0.0001%, even more preferably at least 0.001%, still even more preferably at least 0.01 %, and most preferably at least 0.1 % by weight of the composition. The carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of no greater than 10%, more preferably no greater than 5%, even more preferably no greater than 3%, still even more preferably no greater than 1%, and most preferably no greater than 0.5% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate is present in amount of no greater than 10%, more preferably no greater than 5%, even more preferably no greater than 3%, still even more preferably no greater than 1 %, and most preferably no greater than 0.5% by weight of the composition. Preferably, the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate is present in amount of at least 0.00001%, more preferably at least 0.0001 %, even more preferably at least 0.001 %, still even more preferably at least 0.01 %, and most preferably at least 0.1 % by weight of the composition.

Typically, the moringa oil comprises or is moringa seed oil. Preferably, the moringa oil is extracted from seeds of at least one of Moringa oleifera, Moringa pterygosperma, Moringa peregrina, Moringa concanensis or Moringa drouhardii. The seeds of moringa are characterized by the presence of an oil whose content could vary from 10 to 80%, preferably 20 to 60% according to the species and maturity of the seeds. For the species Moringa oleifera, the contents of oil range from 21 to 34% in the seeds of Moringa oleifera. For sake of clarity, the moringa oil is typically liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the moringa oil is extracted from the seeds of Moringa Oleifera. Preferably the moringa oil is extracted by cold pressing. Preferably, the moringa oil comprises C20 fatty acid, more preferably the moringa oil comprises behenic acid.

Preferably, the moringa oil is present in amount of 0.0001 to 10%, more preferably 0.005 to 5%, even more preferably 0.012 to 1.5% and still even more preferably 0.025 to 0.6%, and most preferably 0.04 to 0.3% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the moringa seed oil is present in amount of 0.0001 to 10%, more preferably 0.005 to 5%, even more preferably 0.012 to 1.5% and still even more preferably 0.025 to 0.6%, and most preferably 0.04 to 0.3% by weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the carboxymethyl cysteine compound to moringa oil is preferably in the range of 1 :3000 to 5:1 , more preferably 1 :1000 to 1 :1 , even more preferably 1 :500 to 1 :3, still even more preferably in the range of 1 :200 to 1 :10, and most preferably in the range of 1 :100 to 1 :30. The weight ratio of the carboxymethyl cysteine compound to moringa seed oil is preferably in the range of 1 :3000 to 5:1 , more preferably 1 :1000 to 1 :1 , even more preferably 1 :500 to 1 :3, still even more preferably in the range of 1 :200 to 1 :10, and most preferably in the range of 1 :100 to 1 :30. The weight ratio of the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate to moringa oil is preferably in the range of 1 :3000 to 5:1 , more preferably 1 :1000 to 1 :1 , even more preferably 1 :500 to 1 :3, still even more preferably in the range of 1 :200 to 1 :10, and most preferably in the range of 1 :100 to 1 :30. The weight ratio of the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate to moringa seed oil is preferably in the range of 1 :3000 to 5:1 , more preferably 1 :1000 to 1 :1 , even more preferably 1 :500 to 1 :3, still even more preferably in the range of 1 :200 to 1 :10, and most preferably in the range of 1 :100 to 1 :30.

The composition may optionally comprise whitening pigment. Whitening pigments are typically particles of high refractive index materials. For example, the whitening pigment may have a refractive index of greater than 1.3, more preferably greater than 1.8 and most preferably from 2.0 to 2.7. Examples of such whitening pigment are those comprising bismuth oxy-chloride, boron nitride, barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminium oxide, zinc oxide or combinations thereof. More preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof. Even more preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide or a combination thereof as these materials have especially high refractive index. Still even more preferably the whitening pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or a mixture thereof and most preferred whitening pigment is titanium dioxide. The average diameter of whitening pigment is typical from 15 nm to 1 micron, more preferably from 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm and still even more preferably from 100 to 300 nm. Amount of whitening pigment may be 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises a glutamate source selected from the group consisting of glutamine, glutamine ester, glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, salts, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the composition comprises pyroglutamic acid and/or salt of pyroglutamic acid. Even more preferably, the composition comprises sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid. Preferably, the glutamate source is present in amount of 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.001 to 6%, even more preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises polyhydric alcohol. Polyhydric alcohols may be selected from group of glycerin, propylyene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol or a mixture thereof. Most preferred polyhydric alcohol is glycerol known also as glycerin. The amount of polyhydric alcohol may range anywhere from 0.1 to 20%, preferably 0.5 to 15% and more preferably 2 and 10% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises emollient materials. Suitable emollient materials include silicones, hydrocarbons, triglycerides or a mixture thereof. These silicones may be organic, silicone-containing or fluorine-containing, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar. Hydrocarbons may include mineral oil, petrolatum and polyalpha-olefins. Examples of preferred volatile hydrocarbons include polydecanes such as isododecane and isodecane (e.g. Permethyl- 99A which is available from Presperse Inc.) and the C7-C8 through C12-C15 isoparaffins (such as the Isopar Series available from Exxon Chemicals). Illustrative triglycerides but not limiting are sunflower seed oil, cotton oil, canola oil, soybean oil, castor oil, borage oil, olive oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and mixtures thereof. Mono- and di- glycerides may also be useful. Particularly preferable are glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

Preferably, the composition comprises moisturizing agents. Particularly preferred moisturizing agents includes, petrolatum, aquaporin manipulating actives, oat kernel flour, substituted urea like hydroxyethyl urea, hyaluronic acid and/or its precursor N-acetyl glucosamine, hyaluronic acid and/or its precursor N-acetyl glucosamine, or a mixture thereof. Some compositions may include thickeners. These may be selected from cellulosics, natural gums and acrylic polymers but not limited by this thickening agent types. Among the cellulosics are sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and combinations thereof. Suitable gums include xanthan, pectin, karaya, agar, alginate gums and combinations thereof. Among the acrylic thickeners are homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids including carbomers such as Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 982, llltrez, Aqua SF-1 and Aqua SF-2 available from the Lubrizol Corporation. Amounts of thickener may range from 0.01 to 3% by weight of the active polymer (outside of solvent or water) in the compositions.

In addition, the compositions of the invention may further include 0.5 to 10% by weight of sequestering agents, such as tetra sodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), EHDP or mixtures; opacifiers and pearlizers such as ethylene glycol distearate, titanium dioxide or Lytron 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer); all of which are useful in enhancing the appearance or properties of the product.

The composition may comprise water in amount of 10 to 96% by weight of the composition, more preferably from 25 to 92%, even more preferably from 42 to 88%, most preferably from 55 to 82% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition has a viscosity of at least 10 mPa s, more preferably in the range 30 to 10000 mPa s, even more preferably 50 to 5000 mPa s, and most preferably 100 to 2000 mPa s, when measured at 20 degrees C at a relatively high shear rate of about 20 s^-1.

Preferably, the composition is an emulsion, more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably the composition is a fluid liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the personal care composition is a skin care composition. Skin care composition refers to a composition suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and wash-off products but preferably leave-on compositions. The term “leave-on” as used with reference to compositions herein means a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin, and left thereon. The term “wash-off” as used with reference to compositions herein means a skin cleanser that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and rinsed off substantially immediately subsequent to application. The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, abdomen, back, arms, under arms, hands, and legs. Preferably “skin” means includes the skin on the face and under arms, more preferably skin means skin on the face other than lips and eyelids. The composition is particularly preferably a moisturizer rather than a make-up product.

Preferably, the composition is a topical composition. Preferably, the composition may be in the form of cream, lotion, ointment, solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, powder, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, or spray. More preferably, the composition may be formulated in the form of cream, lotion, ointment, emulsion, gel, or a spray.

Preferably, the composition is capable of upregulating the expression of filaggrin 2 gene by at least 1 .4 fold change, more preferably 1 .4 to 6 and most preferably 1 .6 to 4.5 and most preferably 1.9 to 3 fold change, typically in comparison to personal care composition comprising neither carboxymethyl cysteine compound nor moringa oil.

The present invention also provides use of carboxymethyl cysteine compound for providing skin benefits selected from the group consisting of enhancing filaggrin production in the skin, improving skin barrier health, upregulating the expression of filaggrin 2 gene.

Preferably the use is non-therapeutic. Preferably the method is non-therapeutic. The term non- therapeutic typically means for cosmetic purposes and not curative or therapeutic purposes.

The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding of the invention. The examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

Examples

Materials

Moringa oil was procured from Givaudan, France.

Example 1

This Example demonstrates the synergistic upregulation of FLG2 gene expression by combining lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate and moringa seed oil. The normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) (Lot: Ep23010402, Ep23010401 , Biocell, Xi’an, China) were cultured in keratinocyte culture medium (KcGrowth, Biocell, Xi’an, China) and plated in 6-well plates. When the cell confluency reached 40% to 60%, the culture medium was replaced with medium together with or without actives for 24 hours. After incubation, the total RNA for each NHEK was extracted using RNAex Pro reagent (Accurate Biotechnology, Cat: AG21102) according to manufacturer’s protocol.

The extracted RNA was quantified using Nanodrop spectrometer (Thermo Fisher Scientific, Waltham, MA, US) and reverse transcribed to generate the template cDNA using the Evo M-MLV RT Premix for qPCR (Accurate Biotechnology, Cat: AG11706) according to manufacturer’s protocol. Gene expression of FLG2 gene was analyzed by polymerase chain reaction (PCR) using SYBR® Green Premix Pro Taq HS qPCR Kit (Accurate Biotechnology, AG11701). The actin beta (ACTB) gene was selected as the housekeeping gene and all data on relative expression of the target genes was normalized to ACTB gene. The fold changes in expression were calculated relative to the blank control (medium having no active).

Table 1

* The level of actives is weight percentage based on the amount of medium a: significantly better (p<0.05) than either of single active at same level.

It was evident from Table 1 that lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate alone is capable of elevating the expression FLG2 gene a little (A). Moringa oil alone even downregulated the expression of FLG2 gene (B). However, when combining lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate and moringa oil, the fold change of the expression of FLG2 gene is significantly higher than the product of fold changes by lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate alone and fold change by moringa oil alone (1 > A*B), demonstrating that the expression of FLG2 gene was synergistically upregulated.

Claims

1. A personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and moringa oil, wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.00001% and no greater than 10% by weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, and/or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine.

3. The composition according to claim 2 wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises salt of carboxymethyl cysteine and preferably the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.01% and no greater than 3% by weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the moringa oil comprises or is moringa seed oil.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the moringa oil is extracted from the seeds of Moringa Oleifera.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the moringa oil is present in amount of 0.0001 to 10%, more preferably 0.012 to 1.5% by weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the weight ratio of the carboxymethyl cysteine compound to moringa oil is in the range of 1 :500 to 1 :3, preferably in the range of 1 : 100 to 1 :30.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is a fluid liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises water in amount of 10 to 96% by weight of the composition, preferably from 42 to 88% by weight of the composition.

12. A method of providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of enhancing filaggrin production in the skin, improving skin barrier health, upregulating the expression of filaggrin gene comprising a step of topically applying to the skin the composition of any one of the preceding claims.

13. Use of the composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11 for providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of enhancing filaggrin production in the skin, improving skin barrier health, upregulating the expression of filaggrin gene.

14. Use of carboxymethyl cysteine compound for providing benefits selected from the group consisting of enhancing filaggrin production in the skin, improving skin barrier health, upregulating the expression of filaggrin 2 gene.