SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising:
● at least two different compounds D chosen independently from the compounds of formula (I) below, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof:
in which formula (I):
▪ R1 represents:
- a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, –NRa-(CO)– or –(CO)-NRa–; or
- a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or Rb-(CO)-;
▪ Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH);
▪ Rb represents a (C2-C10)alkyl group; and
● one or more compounds E chosen from modified polysaccharides.
According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (C) as defined previously.
According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined previously for caring for keratin fibres, preferably for giving keratin fibres a soft and/or smooth feel and/or sheen, more preferentially for giving them a soft and/or smooth feel.
According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined previously for protecting keratin fibres from moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of frizziness and/or the increase in volume of the head of hair in a humid environment.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
▪ the term “keratin fibres” means fibres of human or animal origin, such as head hair, bodily hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibres are preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the head hair.
▪ the term “alkyl group” means a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.
▪ the term “(Cx-Cy)alkyl group” means an alkyl group comprising from x to y carbon atoms.
▪ the term “hydroxy(Cx-Cy)alkyl group” means a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group, at least one of the hydrogen atoms of which is optionally replaced with a hydroxyl (-OH) group. A “(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl group” thus denotes a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group or a hydroxyl(Cx-Cy)alkyl group, i.e. a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group in which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced with a hydroxyl (-OH) group.
▪ the term “di(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt” means an ammonium salt bearing two (hydroxyl)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxyl)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.
▪ the term “tri(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt” means an ammonium salt bearing three (hydroxyl)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxyl)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.
▪ the term “tetra(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt” means an ammonium salt bearing four (hydroxyl)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxyl)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.
▪ the term “(hetero)cyclic group” means a cyclic or heterocyclic group.
▪ the term “cyclic group” means a monocyclic or condensed or non-condensed, saturated or unsaturated, notably aromatic, polycyclic carbocycle comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, it being possible for said cyclic group to be substituted with one or more identical or different groups, notably chosen from: (C1-C6)alkyl, (C1-C6)alkoxy, (C1-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).
▪ the term “heterocyclic group” means a monocyclic or condensed or non-condensed, saturated or unsaturated, notably aromatic, polycyclic group comprising from 5 to 22 members and containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from a nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom, it being possible for said heterocyclic group to be substituted with one or more identical or different groups, notably chosen from: (C1-C6)alkyl, (C1-C6)alkoxy, (C1-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).
▪ the term “unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group” means a hydrocarbon-based group comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated ethylenic double bonds.
▪ the term “polysaccharide” means a poly-oside sugar which is a polymer constituted of several saccharides bonded together via O-oside bonds, said polymers being constituted of monosaccharide units (also known as mono-osides), said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the mono-oside units are linked together via a 1,4 or 1,6 bond as α (alpha) or β (beta) anomer, it being possible for each oside unit to be of L or D configuration, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed from a certain number of saccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, with x being an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x being greater than or equal to 6, in particular x ranging from 5 to 7, preferably x = 6, and y being an integer which represents x - 1, and w being an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly ranging from 3 to 3000, more particularly ranging from 5 to 2500, preferentially ranging from 10 to 2300, particularly ranging from 15 to 1000, more particularly ranging from 20 to 500, preferentially ranging from 25 to 200;
the term “amino polysaccharide” means a polysaccharide substituted with one or more amino group(s) NRaRb, i.e. at least one of the hydroxyl groups of at least one saccharide unit of the polysaccharide is replaced with a group NRaRb with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a (C1-C6)alkyl group, iii) an aryl group such as phenyl, iv) an aryl(C1-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, v) –C(Y)-(Y')f-R'1 with Y and Y', which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or N(R'2), preferably oxygen, f = 0 or 1, preferably 0; and R'1 and R'2 representing i) to iv) of Ra and Rb defined previously, and in particular R'1 denoting a (C1-C6)alkyl group such as methyl. Preferably Ra and/or Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl and more preferentially Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents a (C1-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl.
the term “modified polysaccharide” means an amino or non-amino polysaccharide which is chemically modified, in particular on at least one of the hydroxyl and/or amine groups, and/or physically modified. The polysaccharide can be modified chemically, for example by substitution and/or addition, such as etherification, esterification or amidation, by oxidation, by hydrolysis, by dehydration and/or by reduction. The polysaccharide can be modified physically, for example under the action of heat.
▪ the term “isomer” means an optical, geometrical or tautomeric isomer.
The terms “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.
Process for treating keratin fibres
According to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibres as defined previously.
The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that the process according to the present invention made it possible to maintain or even improve the quality of the fibre, notably the softness, disentangling, smoothness and/or discipline and/or sheen, and to limit the formation of frizziness and/or the increase in volume of the head of hair in a humid environment, thus making it easier to style the hair in a humid environment.
Different compounds D
Composition (C) comprises at least two different compounds D chosen independently from the compounds of formula (I) as defined previously, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the monovalent salts of the compounds of formula (I).
More preferentially, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts and tetra(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, di(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, tri(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon-based group being optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, –NRa–, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, –NRa-(CO)– or –(CO)-NRa–, preferably an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, composition (C) does not comprise any salts of compounds of formula (I) as defined previously.
According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the different compounds D, preferably all of the different compounds D, are in non-salified form.
According to a preferred embodiment, at least two of the different compounds D are in non-salified form and the mole ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of another of the different compounds D in non-salified form in composition (C) ranges from 0.25 to 4. In cases where composition (C) comprises more than two different compounds D in non-salified form, it is sufficient for the mole ratio between two of these different compounds D to vary from 0.25 to 4 for this criterion to be met.
According to a more preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises not more than two different compounds D, the two different compounds D being in non-salified form and the mole ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of the other different compound D in non-salified form in composition (C) ranging from 0.25 to 4.
According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the different compounds D is in non-salified form and at least one of the different compounds D is in salified form and the mole ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salified form in composition (C) is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably ranges from 1 to 100. In cases where composition (C) comprises more than two different compounds D in non-salified form and/or more than two different compounds D in salified form, it is sufficient for the mole ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in non-salified form to the total amount of one of the different compounds D in salified form to be greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 100, for this criterion to be met.
According to a more particular embodiment, composition (C) comprises not more than two different compounds D, one of the different compounds D being in non-salified form and the other in salified form and the mole ratio of the total amount of the different compound D in non-salified form to the total amount of the different compound D in salified form in composition (C) being greater than or equal to 1, and preferably ranging from 1 to 100.
Composition (C) preferably comprises not more than five different compounds D, more preferentially not more than four different compounds D, even more preferentially not more than three different compounds D, and better still not more than two different compounds D, chosen independently from the compounds of formula (I) as defined previously, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are chosen from the following compounds 1 to 39, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:
According to a more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are chosen from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
According to an even more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are chosen from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from compounds 4, 16 or 17, the salts thereof, the isomers thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred variant, the different compounds D are chosen from compounds 1 to 39, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from compounds 4, 16 or 17, isomers thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
When one or more of the different compounds D are in salified form, they are preferably chosen from the following compounds 1’ to 11’, the isomers thereof and the solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:
with X+ representing a preferably monovalent cation, more preferentially a monovalent cation derived from a salt chosen from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially a monovalent cation derived from a salt chosen from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
When one or more of the different compounds D are in salified form, they are more preferentially chosen from compounds 1’ to 11’, the isomers thereof and the solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, with X+ representing a monovalent cation derived from a salt chosen from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, di(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, tri(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, tetra(C1-C10)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
When one or more of the different compounds D are in salified form, they are even more preferentially chosen from compounds 1’ to 11’, the isomers thereof and the solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, with X+ representing an Na+, K+, NH4
+ or tetra(C1-C10)alkylammonium ion.
When one or more of the different compounds D are in salified form, they are more preferentially chosen from the following compounds 1’’ to 13’’, the isomers thereof and the solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, when one or more of the different compounds D are in salified form, they are chosen from compounds 5’’, 6’’, the isomers thereof and the solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, composition (C) comprises a total content of different compounds D of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably of at least 0.05% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
According to a preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds:
- the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3/1;
- the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2/1;
- the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferentially being equal to 1/3;
- the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1/1;
- the combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the mole ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in composition (C) preferably being equal to 4/1.
According to a more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds:
- the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3/1;
- the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2/1;
- the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferentially being equal to 1/3;
- the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1/1.
According to an even more preferred embodiment, the different compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds:
- the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3/1;
- the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2/1;
- the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1/1.
When composition (C) comprises one of the combinations of two compounds described previously, the total content of the combination present in composition (C) is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, more preferentially at least 0.05% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, most preferentially from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).
Compounds E
Composition (C) also comprises one or more compounds E chosen from modified polysaccharides.
The modified polysaccharides can be cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, preferably nonionic or anionic, more preferentially nonionic.
Preferably, the compound(s) E are derived from polysaccharides chosen from:
- acacia gum (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);
- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);
- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);
- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum;
- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
- cellulose (glucose polymer);
- starch (glucose polymer);
- inulin;
- pectin;
- pullulan;
- chitin;
- chitosan;
- hyaluronic acid; and
- mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the compound(s) E are derived from polysaccharides chosen from starch, pullulan and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from modified non-amino polysaccharides.
The starch molecules which can be used to manufacture modified starches according to the present invention can have as botanical origin cereals or else tubers. The starches are thus, for example, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch and mixtures thereof, preferably from potato starches.
Polysaccharide ethers
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide ethers.
The term “polysaccharide ether” means an alkyl polysaccharide whose alkyl group comprises from 1 to 30, preferably from 2 to 10, more preferentially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the alkyl polysaccharides according to the invention are derived from cellulose, pullulan or guar or mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from alkylcelluloses whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 15 carbon atoms.
The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain constituted of β-anhydroglucose units bonded together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:
Cell-OM + R-Hal Cell-OR + MHal
with Hal representing a halogen, such as Cl, M representing a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal Na or K, or an alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal, such as Na, Cell representing a polysaccharide radical, such as cellulose, R representing a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl, and MHal representing the salt generated, such as sodium chloride.
Advantageously, the compound(s) E are chosen from ethyl cellulose, propyl cellulose and mixtures thereof, preferably ethyl cellulose.
According to another particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from alkyl guars, i.e guar gums modified by substitution of the hydroxyl hydrogen with a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 3 carbon atoms, such as 2 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, the compound E is ethyl guar. Ethyl guar is known notably under the INCI name C1-C5 alkyl galactomannan.
Polysaccharide esters
According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide esters.
The term “polysaccharide ester” means an ester obtained by reaction between at least one hydroxyl group of a polysaccharide such as dextrin or pullulan with at least one carboxylic acid or one of its activated forms, such as an acyl chloride. Preferably, the carboxylic acid is saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched and comprises from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and its activated forms are for example the corresponding acid chloride.
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from esters of cellulose or its derivatives such as hydroxy(C1-C5)alkylcelluloses, of starch, of inulin, of pectin, of pullulan or of hyaluronic acid comprising at least one C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain such as alkyl groups which are saturated or unsaturated, arylalkyl groups, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters.
Among the polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters which are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of dextrin or inulin mono- or polyalkyl esters.
It may notably be a mono- or polyester of dextrin (the dextrin being derived from starch) and of at least one fatty acid (such as R-C(O)-OH) and notably corresponding to formula (III) below:
in which formula (III):
- n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 3 to 200, notably ranging from 20 to 150 and in particular ranging from 25 to 50,
- R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an acyl group (R-C(O)-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 7 to 29, in particular from 7 to 21, notably from 11 to 19, more particularly from 13 to 17, or even 15, carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is other than hydrogen.
In particular, R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-C(O)-) in which R is a hydrocarbon-based group as defined previously, with the proviso that at least two of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 are other than hydrogen.
All the radicals R1, R2 and R3 may represent an identical or different acyl group (R-C(O)-), and the acyl groups are notably identical.
When the radicals R1, R2 and/or R3, which may be identical or different, represent an acyl group (R-C(O)-), derived from a fatty carboxylic acid R-C(O)OH, the fatty carboxylic acid R-C(O)OH is preferably chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoarachic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic and stearolic acids, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from esters of dextrin and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C12-C24 fatty acids.
Preferably, the compound(s) E are chosen from esters of dextrin and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C14-C24 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the dextrin esters are chosen from dextrin palmitates such as Rheopearl KL2 and Rheopearl TL2, sold by Chiba Flour, dextrin myristates, such as the product sold under the reference Rheopearl MKL2 by Chiba Flour, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl TT2, dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl WX, or mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from dextrin palmitates.
According to one embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from inulin esters, more particularly from esters of inulin and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from esters of inulin and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C14-C24 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, preferably stearic acid.
According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is chosen from stearoyl inulins, such as the references Rheopearl ISK2 and Rheopearl ISL2, sold by Chiba Flour, or mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from cellulose esters, more particularly from esters of cellulose and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C24, preferably C2-C10, more preferentially C2-C6, even more preferentially C2-C4, acids, such as acetic acid, butyric acid or a mixture thereof.
According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is a cellulose acetate butyrate, such as the reference Eastman Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, sold by Eastman Chemical.
According to one embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from pullulan esters, more particularly from esters of pullulan and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C30, preferably C2-C2 0, more preferentially C12-C20, even more preferentially C12-C18, acids, such as C14 acids.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from myristoyl pullulans.
According to another embodiment, the compound(s) E are cationic.
When the compound(s) E are cationic, they are preferably derived from polymers chosen from guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, cellulose and mixtures thereof.
The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary, and include a C6-C30 aliphatic chain.
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one aliphatic chain (or fatty chain), such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
The alkyl groups borne by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Dow Corning, the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda and the product Softcat SL 100 sold by the company Dow Corning.
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from guar gums modified with C1-C20 (poly)hydroxylalkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. By way of example, mention may notably be made of hydroxymethyltrimonium, hydroxyethyltrimonium, hydroxypropyltrimonium and hydroxybutyltrimonium halide groups, preferably a hydroxypropyltrimonium halide, preferably chloride, group.
Such modified cationic guar gums are sold, for example, by the company Solvay under the trade names Cationic Jaguar® C-14S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F, Jaguar® C-13S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F, Jaguar® C-17 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-500 STD Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Jaguar® LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from the compounds having the following INCI names:
- C1-C5 Alkyl Galactomannan;
- Hydroxypropyl Cellulose;
- Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose;
- Dextrin Palmitate;
- Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose;
- Myristoyl Pullulan;
- Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch PG-Trimonium Chloride;
- Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose;
- Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose;
- Ethylcellulose;
- Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose;
- Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether;
- Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose;
- Methylcellulose;
- Hydroxypropyl Starch;
- Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan;
- Hydroxypropyl Guar;
- Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar;
- Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum;
- Stearoyl Inulin;
- Inulin Lauryl Carbamate;
- Palmitoyl Inulin; and
- mixtures thereof.
According to a more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from the compounds having the following INCI names:
- Dextrin Palmitate;
- Myristoyl Pullulan; and
- mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide ethers as defined previously, polysaccharide esters as defined previously, and mixtures thereof, preferably from polysaccharide esters as defined previously, more preferentially from pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferentially from dextrin palmitates, myristoyl pullulans, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises:
▪ a combination chosen from the following combinations of compounds:
- the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3/1;
- the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2/1;
- the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the mole ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1/1; and
▪ one or more compounds E chosen from polysaccharide ethers as defined previously, polysaccharide esters as defined previously, and mixtures thereof, preferably from polysaccharide esters as defined previously, more preferentially from pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferentially from dextrin palmitates, myristoyl pullulans, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
Preferably, composition (C) comprises a total content of different compounds D and compounds E of at least 0.02% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 100% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1.1% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).
Preferably, the mass ratio of the total amount of different compounds D to the total amount of compounds E in composition (C) is from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 200.
Composition (C) may also comprise one or more pigments.
The term “pigment” refers to any pigment that gives colour to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
The pigments that may be used are notably chosen from the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, notably those described in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
They may be natural, of natural origin, or non-natural.
These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated.
The pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
The pigment may be a mineral pigment. The term “mineral pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
The pigment may be an organic pigment. The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluoran, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
In particular, the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
Examples that may also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
- Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Yellow 3 pigment (CI 11710);
- Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow 1 pigment (CI 11680);
- Cosmenyl Orange GR: Orange 43 pigment (CI 71105);
- Cosmenyl Red R: Red 4 pigment (CI 12085);
- Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Red 5 pigment (CI 12490);
- Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet 23 pigment (CI 51319);
- Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue 15.1 pigment (CI 74160);
- Cosmenyl Green GG: Green 7 pigment (CI 74260);
- Cosmenyl Black R: Black 7 pigment (CI 77266).
The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
The organic pigment may also be a lake. The term “lake” refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
Among the dyes, mention may be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
The pigment may also be a pigment with special effects. The term “pigments with special effects” means pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is non-uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from coloured pigments, which afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
Several types of pigments with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
Examples of pigments with special effects that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium and with iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium and notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined previously, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Nacreous pigments that may be mentioned include the nacres Cellini sold by BASF (mica-TiO2-lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona sold by Merck (mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
Mention may also be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold notably by the company BASF under the name Tan Opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
Still as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, notably those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes). It is also possible to envisage multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates, such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
The pigments with special effects may also be chosen from reflective particles, i.e. notably from particles whose size, structure, notably the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminous points that contrast with their environment making them appear to sparkle.
The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the colouring effect generated by the colouring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of colour rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
These particles may have varied forms and may notably be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, notably of a reflective material.
When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, notably titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, notably a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, notably of at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and/or mineral materials.
More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, notably aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
The reflective material may include a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
Reflective particles are notably described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
Again as an example of reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles including a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.
Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company.
Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with SiO2 sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
Mention may also be made of interference pigments which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Special-effect pigments also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
The variety of pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colours, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 µm.
The pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
The dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation thereof. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or else polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
As other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
Thus, the pigments surface-treated beforehand that are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have been completely or partially subjected to a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature with an organic agent, such as those described notably in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, notably polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available as is.
Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
The organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
The surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
- a PEG-silicone treatment, for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a methicone treatment, for instance the SI surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a dimethicone treatment, for instance the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate treatment, for instance the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a magnesium myristate treatment, for instance the MM surface treatment sold by LCW;
- an aluminium dimyristate treatment, for instance the MI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- a perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether treatment, for instance the FHC surface treatment sold by LCW;
- an isostearyl sebacate treatment, for instance the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- a perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the PF surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito;
- a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane/perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for instance the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate copolymer/dimethicone treatment, for instance the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for instance the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate copolymer treatment, for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
- a perfluoroalkyl phosphate/isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for instance the PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersant is present with organic or mineral pigments in submicron-sized particulate form.
The term “submicron-sized” or “submicronic” refers to pigments having a particle size that has been micronized by a micronization method and having a mean particle size of less than a micrometre (µm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 µm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 µm.
According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant:pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better still between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
The dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of amino silicone type. Among the suitable dispersants that may be mentioned are:
- amino silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amine groups, such as those sold under the following names and references: BYK LPX 21879, par BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, sold by Genesee Polymers,
- silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, sold by Evonik,
- polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones having carboxyl groups, such as X-22162 and X-22370, sold by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones, such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682 and GP-695, sold by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403 and Tego® RC 1412, sold by Evonik.
According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) are of amino silicone type and are cationic.
Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from mineral pigments, mixed mineral-organic pigments or organic pigments.
In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferentially organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
Preferably, the pigment(s) used in the process of the invention are chosen from nacres, carbon blacks, such as Black 2, iron oxides, notably red, brown or black iron oxides, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, notably blue and violet triarylmethane pigments, such as Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, notably red azo pigments, such as D&C Red 7, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, notably red, brown or black iron oxides.
Even more preferentially, the pigment(s) are chosen from red iron oxides.
As an example of a red iron oxide, mention may be made of the iron oxide sold by the company Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.
Composition (C) may comprise a total content of pigments ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
Other features of composition (C)
Composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, i.e. a composition which comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with human keratin fibres.
Composition (C) may comprise water, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferentially less than 5% by weight, even more preferentially less than 1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is anhydrous.
Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may notably be introduced by ingredients of the composition that may contain residual amounts thereof.
The pH of composition (C) is preferably from 2 to 11, more preferentially from 3 to 9. The pH can be adjusted using an organic or mineral acid or an organic or mineral base normally used in cosmetics.
Composition (C) may comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof.
When present in composition (C), this or these organic solvents may be present in composition (C) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).
Composition (C) is preferably liquid.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid composition” means, on a macroscopic scale, a composition which does not have its own shape and cannot be grasped, unlike a solid. It is a fluid which adapts to the shape of the container in which it is placed at room temperature (25°C). When poured into another container, a liquid retains its volume. A liquid thus has its own volume. At rest, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal.
Composition (C) may be in any presentation form conventionally used for haircare application. In a non-limiting manner, composition (C) may be in the form of a lotion, serum, cream, mousse, gel, spray or lacquer.
Composition (C) may be used in a rinse-off or leave-on application.
Composition (C) may be in the form of a mask, a conditioning composition or a pre-shampoo. Composition (C) may also be in the form of a composition to be added to or mixed with a mask or a conditioning composition before application.
Composition (C) may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol container, so as to apply composition (C) in vapourized (lacquer) or foam form. In these cases, composition (C) preferably comprises at least one propellant.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of colouring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C); even more preferentially, composition (C) is free of colouring agents.
The term “colouring agent” means an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.
The term “oxidation dye” means an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are colourless or sparingly coloured compounds, which, via a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a coloured species.
The term “direct dye” means a natural and/or synthetic dye, including in the form of an extract or extracts, other than oxidation dyes. These are coloured compounds that will spread superficially on the fibre. They may be ionic or nonionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or nonionic.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still, composition (C) is silicone-free.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.
The term “cationic polymer” means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferentially less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, more preferentially of less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially of less than 0.1% by weight, most preferentially of less than 0.01% by weight, and better still of less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.
Examples of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycols (PEGs).
Composition (C) may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres.
The bath ratio of composition (C) applied to the keratin fibres may range from 0.02 to 10. The term “bath ratio” means the ratio between the total weight of composition (C) applied and the total weight of keratin fibres to be treated.
The process may comprise at least one additional step following step i), chosen from steps ii) to iv) below:
ii) a step of applying composition (C) to the keratin fibres, preferably for a period of at least 10 seconds, said application step optionally being performed under an airtight film of wrapper or plastic film type;
iii) a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres;
iv) a step of drying the keratin fibres in ambient air or with the aid of a heating device.
Preferably, the process comprises the additional steps ii) and iv) as described previously and performed in that order.
According to a particular embodiment, the process comprises all the additional steps ii), iii) and iv) as described previously and performed in that order.
The step of applying composition (C) may last from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.
The temperature of the heating device may range from 45°C to 230°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C, more preferentially from 50°C to 80°C. A hairdryer, a heating hood, an iron or a heating brush may be used, for example, as heating device.
The drying step iv) may also be a combination of drying with air or with a heating device at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 80°C, such as a hairdryer or a heating hood, possibly followed by an ironing step, preferably with a straightening iron.
Steps i) and optionally steps ii) to iv) may be repeated as many times as required and each cycle of steps may be spaced from the next by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Hair treatments different from the invention may be performed between different application cycles, before or after.
Composition (C)
According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is a composition (C) as defined previously.
Uses
According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined previously for caring for keratin fibres, preferably for giving keratin fibres a soft and/or smooth feel and/or sheen, more preferentially for giving them a soft and/or smooth feel.
According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined previously for protecting keratin fibres from moisture, preferably for limiting the formation of frizziness and/or the increase in volume of the head of hair in a humid environment.
Examples
The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. In the examples which follow, unless otherwise indicated, all the amounts are shown as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The following compositions C1 to C9 were prepared according to the preparation protocol described hereinbelow:
|
Ingredients
|
C1
|
C2
|
C3
|
C4
|
C5
|
Myristoyl Pullulan
(Sold by the company Katakura Chikkarin) |
5 |
10 |
5 |
10 |
5 |
Dextrin Palmitate
(Rheopearl KL2 sold by the company Chiba Flour Milling) |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
| Lauric acid/caprylic acid mixture (1/3 mole ratio) |
qs 100 |
qs 100 |
- |
- |
- |
| Caprylic acid/capric acid mixture (1/1 mole ratio) |
- |
- |
qs 100 |
qs 100 |
- |
| Lauric acid/capric acid mixture (1/2 mole ratio) |
- |
- |
- |
- |
qs 100 |
|
Ingr
e
dients
|
C
6
|
C
7
|
C
8
|
C9
|
Myristoyl Pullulan
(Sold by the company Katakura Chikkarin) |
10 |
- |
- |
- |
Dextrin Palmitate
(Rheopearl KL2 sold by the company Chiba Flour Milling) |
- |
5 |
10 |
20 |
| Lauric acid/caprylic acid mixture (1/3 mole ratio) |
- |
qs 100 |
qs 100 |
- |
| Caprylic acid/capric acid mixture (1/1 mole ratio) |
- |
- |
- |
qs 100 |
| Lauric acid/capric acid mixture (1/2 mole ratio) |
qs 100 |
- |
- |
- |
Process for preparing compositions C1 to C9
The two acids are mixed in a flask. The mixture is heated with stirring at 70°C for 1 hour. After the temperature of the reaction medium has returned to room temperature, compound E is added to the resulting liquid and the mixture is heated again with stirring at 70°C for 20 minutes. After returning to room temperature, composition C1 to C9 is obtained in the form of a colourless, transparent, slightly viscous, oily liquid.
Example 1: Evaluation of the hairstyle hold in a humid environment
The hairstyle hold, i.e. the formation of frizziness and the increase in the volume of the head of hair in a humid environment, were evaluated for compositions C1 to C4 according to the evaluation protocol described hereinbelow.
Locks
used
2.7 g locks of 27 cm-long Brazilian hair with a type IV curl were used.
Evaluation protocol
The locks were washed with a DOP shampoo (0.4 g/g of hair) before application of the test compositions.
81 mg of each of the test compositions were then applied to separate wet locks, wrung out beforehand and dabbed on absorbent paper. This application was made with the fingers while massaging the hair fibre.
The locks of hair were then combed, disentangled and placed in a glove box at 20% relative humidity at 25°C for 2 hours.
The locks were then placed in an oven at 80% relative humidity at 25°C for 24 hours.
Volume and frizziness measurements were taken by measuring the width of the lock at mid-height on leaving the oven and compared with the value obtained for a reference lock that had not been treated with the composition according to the invention.
Evaluation results
The results of the measurements of the widths of the locks at mid-height in cm are summarized in the table hereinbelow:
|
Compositions tested
|
Width of locks at mid-height (before application of the compositions)
|
Final width of locks at mid-height
(
on
leaving the oven)
|
|
C1
|
2 |
2.8 |
|
C2
|
2 |
2.7 |
|
C3
|
2 |
3.6 |
|
C4
|
2 |
3.2 |
Reference
(Untreated lock)
|
2 |
4.9 |
It can be seen that the width values of the locks at mid-height are lower for the locks treated via the process according to the invention than for the reference lock.
The process according to the invention thus makes it possible to limit the formation of frizziness and the increase in hair volume in a humid environment, even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials.
Example
2
: Evaluation of the “smooth feel” via the
extensometry
method
The method consists in recording the frictional force of a dry or wet lock during its displacement in the direction root/end between two pads clamping it at constant compression. This method thus makes it possible to evaluate the "smooth feel" by mimicking the passage of two fingers along a lock of hair.
The lower the frictional force, the smoother the surface state of the hair.
The “smooth feel” was evaluated for compositions C1, C2, C7 and C8 according to the evaluation protocol described hereinbelow.
Locks
used
For the study, locks of bleached Caucasian type hair (alkaline solubility AS20) were used.
Evaluation protocol
The test compositions were applied according to the leave-on and rinse-off protocol described hereinbelow, then wet and dry measurements were taken.
A force ratio between treated and untreated hair was thus determined: Ftreated(W)/Funtreated(W).
Leave-on
protocol
1) Washing of the lock with a DOP shampoo using a bath ratio of 0.4 g/g of hair;
2) Application of the compositions to the hair while still wet, in a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g of hair, no leave-on time.
Rinse-off protocol
1) Washing of the lock with a DOP shampoo using a bath ratio of 0.4 g/g of hair;
2) Application of the compositions to the hair while still wet, in a bath ratio of 0.4 g/g of hair, followed by a leave-on time of 5 min;
3) Rinsing: 15 times under running water, 2 dryings with the fingers, wetting with water and then a final drying with forceps.
The measurements were carried out either on hair while still wet or on hair dried in an oven at 60°C for 15 min.
Results
The results of the measurements are summarized in the table below:
|
Composition tested
|
Protocol
|
F
treated
/
F
untreated
on
wet
hair
|
F
treated
/
F
untreated
on
dry
hair
|
|
C1
|
Rinse-off |
0.43 |
0.73 |
|
C1
|
Leave-on |
0.44 |
0.64 |
|
C2
|
Rinse-off |
0.40 |
0.65 |
|
C2
|
Leave-on |
0.39 |
0.78 |
|
C7
|
Rinse-off |
0.46 |
0.64 |
|
C
7
|
Leave-on |
0.50 |
0.65 |
|
C8
|
Rinse-off |
0.45 |
0.64 |
|
C
8
|
Leave-on |
0.51 |
0.71 |
Lower frictional forces are observed on dry and wet hair for the hair treated via the process according to the present invention, compared to the untreated hair. The hair surface is smoother, even in the absence of silicone-based starting materials. The treated hair is softer and easier to comb and to disentangle, compared to the untreated hair.