EP4646183A1

EP4646183A1 - Cosmetic emulsion with diisopropyl adipate and polyglycerylester

Info

Publication number: EP4646183A1
Application number: EP23833048.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Shuqin XU; Mengting CAI; Cecile Ratschow; Jianfei LIU (Jennifer); Meiling ZHANG (Mason)
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2023-01-06
Filing date: 2023-12-14
Publication date: 2025-11-12
Also published as: WO2024146762A1; WO2024145888A1; JP2026502796A; CL2025001614A1; MX2025006394A; AU2023422136A1; CN120187393A; CA3267967A1; KR20250132452A

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to cosmetic oil in water emulsion comprising a combination of diisopropyl adipate and at least one polyglycerylester. This combination allows for a thickening of oil in water emulsions, and the emulsion has a low tackiness.

Description

Cosmetic emulsion with diisopropyl adipate and polyglycerylester

Technical field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic emulsion which is thickened by a combination of diisopropyl adipate and at least one polyglycerylester.

Background art

Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but their effects make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's wellbeing. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.

A well-known group of cosmetic products are body lotions and cosmetic face care products. The formulations are usually formulated as oil in water emulsion. In the past the formulations contained silicone oils and polymers polymerized in a homo or copolymerization with acrylic acid. Those compounds allowed for a pleased sensory, so that the lotion can be easy spread over the skin providing a fresh non sticky feeling. The formulations do absorb easily. Thereby, the named polymers are often used to thicken the formulations to the right viscosity such that the formulations have a rich body and do not easily run off the skin.

However, it is desirable for various reasons to provide formulations free from both silicones and polymers polymerized in a homo or copolymerization with acrylic acid. These biopolymers such as xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate often allow to build up sufficient viscosity in oil in water emulsions. However, at the required viscosity level the quantity of those biopolymers may cause the formulations to become quite tacky. Further, those formulations often have the disadvantage, since they have a bouncy gel structure or they have insufficient sensory properties.

Thus, in order to reduce the amount of biopolymers other methods and techniques are required to build up viscosity in emulsion formulations.

The document WO 2014/181747 A1 discloses oil based thickening agents. However, these agents comprise silicone structures, which are not desirable anymore.

The document US4939179A discloses a thickened emulsion. The thickening agent is an isoparaffin and a C8-C22 alkyl phosphate.

However, none of the documents can direct the person skilled in art to the present invention. Summary of the invention

It was surprisingly found by the applicant that the combination of the present invention allows for a thickening of oil in water emulsions. The formulations according to the invention have a low tackiness. The bouncy gel structure can be reduced due to the different thickening approach.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic oil in water emulsion comprising a) diisopropyl adipate, and b) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and/or at least one polyglycerylester of polyglycerin and one or more fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

A further object of the invention is the use of diisopropyl adipate, and a) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and/or b) at least one polyglycerylester of polyglycerin and one or more fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms to thicken an oil in water emulsion.

It was surprisingly further noted that the emulsions of the invention did show a very low foaming level upon application on the human skin. This is especially surprising, as the formulations are formulated without silicones. Most often silicone oils are used as antifoaming agent. E.g. dimethicone has low surface tension and is not easy to dissolve into water or other oil ingredients. As result it can easily move to the surface of the foam characteristic air bubbles appearing upon application of the cosmetic product to the human skin and spread on the bubble surface. This process renders the surface of the bubble to become uneven so that the bubbles start to combine and break faster.

All the weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%. In the following description the terms “according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the composition and to the method according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.

The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin.

If viscosity values are given in this disclosure, then all values relate to a measurement at 25° C. in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from the company proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. Measuring body No. 1 (Article No. 200 0191 ), suitable for a viscosity range of up to 10,000 [mPa s], speed range 62.5 min^-1, is used as the measuring body.

Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant".

It is preferred if the total quantity of diisopropyl adipate is in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably from 1 .0 to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

For the case that polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range from 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 2.2 to 4.3 % by weight and most preferably 2.7 to 3.9 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. For the case that at least one polyglycerylester of polyglycerin and one or more fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of the polyglycerylester is in the range from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.9 to 3.1 % by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 2.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

Among the polyglycerylester, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyeryl-10 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isosteareate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate and Polygylceryl-2 Caprylate are preferred.

More preferred are the polyglycerylester selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate.

Most preferred polylglycerylester are Polyglyceryl-6 stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 behenate.

Thus, it is preferred if the total quantity of Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyeryl-10 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isosteareate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl- 6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate and Polygylceryl-2 Caprylate is in the range from range from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.9 to 3.1 % by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 2.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

It is further preferred if the total quantity of polyglycerylester is in the range from range from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.9 to 3.1 % by weight and most preferably 1.2 to 2.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

It is further preferred if the total quantity of Polyglyceryl-6 stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 behenate is in the range from range from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.9 to 3.1 % by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 2.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

Further it is preferred according to the invention if the emulsion comprises at least one oil chosen from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.

According to the invention, it is preferred if the total quantity of esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

Preferred esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, are selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, , propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.

Among those esters, isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and/or isopropyl palmitate are particular preferred.

Accordingly it is preferred if the total quantity of esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2- ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, , propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

Further it is preferred if the total quantity of isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and/or isopropyl palmitate is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

Further it is preferred if at least one fatty acid triglyceride is contained in the emulsion. The total quantity of the fatty acid triglycerides is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1 .0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1 .1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1 .2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

It is preferred if the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides), C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride,

Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capric/Lauric/Myristic/Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl

Monomaleate Triglyceride)), Hydrogenated C12-18 T riglycerides, Lauric/palmitic/oleic Triglyceride, Mustelic/palmitic Triglyceride, Oleic/linoleic Triglyceride, Oleic/Palmitic/Lauric/Myristic/Linoleic Triglyceride, Ricinoleic/caproic/caprylic/capric T riglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride and/or Jojoba Oil/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Esters. In particular preferred is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Thus, it is particular preferred if the total quantity of the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1 .2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

The fatty acid triglyceride can also be part of natural oils. Preferred natural oils, which can be contained are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine soja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.

According to the invention it is further preferred if the emulsion comprises less than 0.1% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic.

Further, it is preferred if the oil phase of the emulsion sums up to a total quantity in the range from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 3.5 to 15% by weight and most preferably from 3.8 to 12.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

By definition emulsifier and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. Nevertheless, fatty alcohols count as part of the oil phase.

Further compounds which can be contained in the oil phase are for example chosen from further branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols since they are obtainable according to the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecanol (Eutanol® G 16, Guerbitol® T 16), octyldodecanol (Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 20) and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol.

Further oils preferred according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol® APM).

Further oils, which can be contained in the emulsion according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C3-22-alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG-9 butyl ether (Breox® B25), PPG- 10 butanediol (Macol® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol® E).

Further oils are preferably chosen from the C8-C22-fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular, the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear 014/15- alkanols, e.g., C12-C15-alkyl lactate, and on C12/13-alkanols branched in the 2 position are available under the trade name Cosmacol® from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co., Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI and Cosmacol® ETI.

Further oils which can preferably be used are chosen from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, e.g., glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC) or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1 .

Further, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Among those fatty alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the corresponding mixture cetearyl alcohol are more preferred.

For the case at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those fatty alcohols is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1 .0 to 6.0% by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 5.0 %% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention the emulsion comprises at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum.

It is preferable and advantageous if the emulsion comprises 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight and most preferably 0.10 to 0.3% by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is particularly preferred if at least xanthan gum is contained. It is particularly preferred if xanthan gum is contained in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight and most preferably 0.10 to 0.3% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition. Further preferred emulsions of the invention comprise hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. For the case that hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50 to 2.4% by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 1 .9% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the emulsion according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of that type are butylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,2 hexanediol, 1 ,2 heptanediol, 1 ,2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.

It is preferred if those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 9% by weight and most preferably from 1 .5 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin.

For the case that phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

For the case that ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1 .2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

Further it is preferred according to the invention if at least one nonionic emulsifier is contained. Although basically all nonionic emulsifiers can be contained in the emulsion of the invention, some emulsifiers were found to be particularly beneficial for the effect described. Preferred nonionic emulsifier is selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

It is particularly preferred are glyceryl stearate and/or glyceryl stearate SE.

For the case that at least one nonionic emulsifier is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

For the case that at least one nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those nonionic emulsifiers is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 1.2 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if further active ingredients are contained. These are advantageously selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1- methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. The active ingredients mentioned in the group are advantageously used in total proportions of up to 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if water is contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 70.0% by weight to 95% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

Examples:

The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Examples 1 and 2 are reference examples not in scope of the invention.

Table 1 :

In order to evaluate the emulsions of the present invention in relation to the development of a foam and the leaving of a whitish residue on the skin a method was developed to analyze whitish residues on the skin using an image analyzer and an image analyze software (Imaged).

The following steps were conducted:

Set up instruments:

1 . Prepare samples and filling them into a pipette.

2. Set a metronome (96 beep per minute).

3. Prepare a stopwatch.

4. Turn on the light box and adjust to white light.

5. Prepare black artificial skin and reference cards

6. Turn on the camera and set the camera.

Apply the sample on the artificial skin and take picture:

1 . Apply 10OpL of the emulsion on the left third of the artificial skin.

2. Start the metronome.

3. Start the stopwatch, spread the product on the artificial skin by moving 3 fingers right and left to the beat of the metronome for 30 sec.

4. Take the picture immediately after the finish of application.

5. Further take an picture of a standard white card.

Analyses the picture(s) using Imaged (software):

Result calculation:

Set the relative anti-whitish value of standard white area (2*10cm) as 0%; Set the relative anti-whitish value of total black (L-value<50, mean gray value =255) as 100%.

Relative anti w

Msampie- Mean gray value of test sample.

M₂O- Mean gray value of 2x10cm standard white area.

A value of 100% means not whitish residues at all, whereas a value of 0% means prominent whitish residues are visible. The relative anti-whiteish (%) is called antifoaming score.

Table 2:

Table 3:

Table 4:

Claims

1 . Cosmetic oil in water emulsion comprising a) diisopropyl adipate, and b) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and/or at least one polyglycerylester of polyglycerin and one or more fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

2. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one polyglycerylester is selected from Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyeryl-10 Caprylate,

Polyglyceryl- 10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate,

Polyglyceryl- 10 Dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate,

Polyglyceryl- 10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isosteareate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate,

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl- 6 stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Cleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate and Polygylceryl-2 Caprylate, preferably from Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, and more preferably from Polyglyceryl-6 stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 behenate.

3. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a total quantity of diisopropyl adipate is in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and more preferably from 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

4. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any of claims 1-3, wherein a total quantity of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range from 1 .5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 2.2 to 4.3 % by weight and more preferably 2.7 to 3.9 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

5. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any of claims 1-4, wherein a total quantity of the at least one polyglycerylester is in the range from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, preferably from 0.9 to 3.1 % by weight and more preferably 1.2 to 2.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

6. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any of claims 1 -5, further comprising at least one oil chosen from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.

7. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 6, wherein the esters are selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2- ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, , propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate, preferably from isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and/or isopropyl palmitate.

8. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 6 or 7, wherein a total quantity of the esters is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

9. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any of claims 1 -8, further comprising at least one fatty acid triglyceride.

10. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 9, wherein the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides), C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride, Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capric/Lauric/Myristic/Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate Triglyceride)), Hydrogenated C12-18 Triglycerides, Lauric/palmitic/oleic Triglyceride, Mustelic/palmitic Triglyceride, Oleic/linoleic Triglyceride, Oleic/Palmitic/Lauric/Myristic/Linoleic Triglyceride, Ricinoleic/caproic/caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride and/or Jojoba Oil/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Esters, preferably from Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.

11 . Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 9 or 10, wherein a total quantity of the fatty acid triglycerides is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 1 .0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1 .1 to 6% by weight and most preferably from 1 .2 to 5.0% weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

12. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 -11 , wherein the emulsion comprises less than 0.1% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic.

13. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 -12, wherein an oil phase of the emulsion sums up to a total quantity in the range from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 15% by weight and more preferably from 3.8 to 12.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

14. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-13, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

15. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 14, wherein a total quantity of the fatty alcohols is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and more preferably 1 .2 to 5.0 %% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

16. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-15, further comprising at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, preferably in a range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight and most preferably 0.10 to 0.3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

17. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-16, further comprising hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, preferably in the range from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50 to 2.4% by weight and most preferably 1 .2 to 1 .9% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.

18. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-17, further comprising a short chain polyol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably butylene glycol, glycerol (glycerin), propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,2 hexanediol, 1 ,2 heptanediol, 1 ,2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.

19. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 18, wherein the polyol is contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 9% by weight and more preferably from 1 .5 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

20. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-19, further comprising phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin, preferably a total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, and a total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion, respectively.

21. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-20, further comprising at least one nonionic emulsifier, preferably selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and more preferably glyceryl stearate and/or glyceryl stearate SE.

22. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to claim 21 , wherein a total quantity of the at least one nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 3.0% by weight and more preferably 1 .2 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

23. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-22, further comprising an active ingredient selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1 -methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, preferably in a total proportion of up to 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

24. Cosmetic oil in water emulsion according to any one of claims 1-23, further comprising water, preferably in a total quantity ranging from 70.0% to 95% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

25. Use of diisopropyl adipate, and a) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; and/or b) at least one polyglycerylester of polyglycerin and one or more fatty acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms to thicken an oil in water emulsion.

26. Use according to claim 25, wherein the at least one polyglycerylester is selected from Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyeryl-10 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 Isosteareate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleat, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate and Polygylceryl-2 Caprylate, preferably from Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, and more preferably from Polyglyceryl-6 stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 behenate.

27. Use according to claim 25 or 26, wherein a total quantity of diisopropyl adipate is in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and more preferably from 1 .0 to 2.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

28. Use according to any of claims 25-27, wherein a total quantity of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range from 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 2.2 to 4.3 % by weight and more preferably 2.7 to 3.9 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

29. Use according to any of claims 25-28, wherein a total quantity of the at least one polyglycerylester is in the range from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, preferably from 0.9 to 3.1 % by weight and more preferably 1 .2 to 2.3 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.