EP4637689A1 - Silicone-free hair oil - Google Patents
Silicone-free hair oilInfo
- Publication number
- EP4637689A1 EP4637689A1 EP23809176.3A EP23809176A EP4637689A1 EP 4637689 A1 EP4637689 A1 EP 4637689A1 EP 23809176 A EP23809176 A EP 23809176A EP 4637689 A1 EP4637689 A1 EP 4637689A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- silicone
- hair
- hair oil
- free
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
Definitions
- the invention relates to silicone-free hair oils comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms, and their use for the care of keratin fibers, in particular hair.
- Hair conditioners with a conditioning effect consist mainly of quats (quaternary ammonium compounds), silicone oils, fatty acids and polymers.
- quats quaternary ammonium compounds
- silicone oils are used as "leavein products," meaning that the formulations remain in the hair without subsequent rinsing. The consumer thus saves time and water. From this point of view, hair oils enjoy advantageous sustainability.
- the success of hair oils of this type on the market is very high.
- silicone oils are a constant source of criticism. The main difficulty in replacing silicone oils in hair oils is to find natural oils or natural raw materials that do not stress or grease the hair.
- New combinations are being sought that can ensure a noticeable care effect and good stability, and which are silicone-free.
- increased viscosity is an advantage when applying cosmetic compositions to the hair, as these products can thus be used sparingly and be distributed well.
- the consumer associates increased-viscosity products with an increased performance in terms of care.
- Special gelforming thickeners are also required to stabilize solid particles such as pigments or peels and nourishing oils and waxes in the hair product.
- the inventors have formulated a combination of ingredients which is particularly suited to silicone- free hair oils.
- the inclusion of at least one alkane (as defined herein) together with either a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid or Polyurethane-79 (or both thickeners) in a hair oil enables the oil to exclude silicone-based ingredients but still have advantageous haptics and care properties.
- the viscosity provided by the combination of ingredients is very pleasing to the consumer.
- a silicone-free hair oil comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
- the inventors have worked intensively to formulate a hair oil without silicone but with the desired consistency and feel that is desired of a hair oil.
- the combination of at least one thickener as defined herein plus at least one alkane provides a hair oil with a very pleasing thickness and feel.
- the combination of ingredients provides a hair oil with advantageous properties in terms of hair grip, combability, care level, shine, speadability and suppleness.
- silicone-free is taken to mean that the hair oil is free from organosilicon compounds, in particular free from silicones, trisiloxanes, and silicone oils.
- the thickener (i) comprises the polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and no Polyurethane-79.
- the thickener (i) comprises the Polyurethane-79 and no polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid.
- the thickener (i) comprises both the polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and Polyurethane-79.
- the polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid is dextrin palmitate.
- Dextrin palmitate may be obtained from Chiba Flour Milling/Miyoshi Europe in the form of the raw material Rheopearl KL2.
- Polyurethane-79 is the INCI name given to the product available from Lubrizol. It is a high molecular weight, non-ionic, hydrophobically modified polyurethane prepared by reacting a hydrogenated polyolefin diol, a linear aliphatic diisocyanate, a linear diol chain extender, a hydrogenated dimerized fatty alcohol, and end-capped with a fatty alcohol. It is preferably to formulate a hair oil having a viscosity that provides for easy application by the user.
- the hair oils defined herein have a viscosity ranging from 250 to 8,000 mPa.s. The viscosity is as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at about 20 rpm at 20°C.
- Preferable viscosity ranges for the hair oil are:
- the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt% to 20wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil, preferably from 0.3wt% to 10wt%, more preferably from 0.5wt% to 10wt%, yet more preferably from 1wt% to 8wt%, yet more preferably from 2wt% to 8wt%, yet more preferably from 2wt% to 7wt%.
- the alkane component (ii) comprises a C8 to C17 branched or linear, substituted or unsubstituted alkane.
- the alkane component (ii) is a mixture of two or more (preferably two) different C8 to C17 branched or linear, substituted or unsubstituted alkanes.
- the alkane is suitably selected from one or more of the group consisting of isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, n-undecane, n- dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof.
- the alkane is a linear alkane.
- the alkane is a C9-C15 linear alkane.
- the alkane is n-undecane, n-dodecane, n- tridecane or mixtures thereof.
- the alkane is a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane.
- the hair oil contains no branched alkanes.
- the alkane component (ii) (i.e. the total amount of alkane, in case more than one is present) is from about 10% to about 90% by weight of the total composition, i.e. by weight of the hair oil.
- the alkane component (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 20wt% to 85wt%, more preferably from 20wt% to 75wt%, more preferably from 30wt% to 65wt%, more preferably from 40wt% to 65wt%.
- the silicone-free hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise:
- the hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise one or more triglycerides.
- a triglyceride is a triple ester of glycerin with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-30 fatty acids.
- the triglyceride comprises or consists of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.
- the hair oil comprises a mixture of mono-, di- and triglycerides derived from coconut oil.
- the hair oil may comprise the material known by the INCI name Cocoglycerides, available from BASF.
- the triglyceride component may include a mixture of glycerides, as long as at least one triglyceride is present in the mixture.
- the triglyceride component is present in an amount up to 40% by weight of the hair oil.
- the triglyceride component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 40wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 35wt%, more preferably from 10wt% to 35wt%, yet more preferably from 20wt% to 35wt%.
- the hair oil according to the present invention may comprise one or more linear or branched esters.
- Such esters are cosmetic oils and may be selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.
- These preferably include 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, Isotridecyl isonanoate, cetearyl isonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, but
- esters may be selected from the group of dicarboxylic acid esters, carbonate esters and diol esters. These are understood to be:
- dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelaate and
- diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol-di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol-di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol-di-isostearate, propylene glycol-di- pelargonate, butanediol-di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and
- the ester component is present in an amount up to 70% by weight of the hair oil.
- the ester component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 60wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 55wt%, more preferably from 10wt% to 60wt%, yet more preferably from 20wt% to 50wt%.
- the hair oil according to the present invention may comprise one or more C1 to C5 mono alcohols.
- Such alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated; preferably saturated.
- Such alcohols may be linear or branched; preferably linear.
- the alcohol is ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol, n-butanol or t-butanol. More preferably, the alcohol component comprises ethanol.
- the monoalcohol component is present in an amount up to 30% by weight of the hair oil.
- the monoalcohol component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 25wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 20wt%, more preferably from 7wt% to 15wt%.
- the hair oil according to the present invention may comprise a further cosmetic oil, meaning an oil other than the alkane component (ii), which other oil is suitable for cosmetic purposes (and as long as it is not a silicone oil).
- Such cosmetic oils may be a natural oil, an ester oil, a synthetic oil and such like.
- a natural oil as contemplated herein is a non-synthetic oil. More specifically, such an oil may be found in naturally occurring raw material sources, for example of microbial, plant or animal origin, but in particular plant origin and can be obtained therefrom.
- a natural oil of this kind are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, olive oil, mandarin oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut
- the natural oil is present in an amount up to a30% by weight of the hair oil.
- the natural oil component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 25wt%, preferably from 2wt% to 15wt%, more preferably from 3wt% to 10wt%.
- the hair oil comprises only a small amount of a natural oil.
- the hair oil may contain less than 1 % natural oil based on the weight of the hair oil. It is thought that the combination of the thickener component (i) as defined herein with the alkane component (ii) as defined herein provides the advantageous consistency and feel of the hair oil, and that the inclusion of a natural oil component may not be necessary in order to provide such beneficial properties.
- the hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise a solid fat or oil, for example a solid vegetable oil and/or solid vegetable butter.
- plant butters with a melting point in the range from 20°C to 35°C such as Shea Butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mango Butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (INCI designation: Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), Cocoa Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter) and/or Cupuacu Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Japan Wax, Synthetic Japan Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter and mixtures thereof. Shea butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter)
- the solid oil or fat is present in an amount up to 15% by weight of the hair oil.
- the solid oil or fat component is present in an amount ranging from 0.1wt% to 12wt%, preferably from 0.3wt% to 10wt%, more preferably from 0.5wt% to 8wt%.
- the hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise one or more fatty alcohols.
- fatty alcohols are selected from fatty alcohols having 8 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and coco alcohol.
- the fatty alcohol component is present in an amount up to 30% by weight of the hair oil.
- the fatty alcohol component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 25wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 20wt%, more preferably from 7wt% to 15wt%.
- the hair oils according to the invention may contain at least one active ingredient advantageously selected from the group comprising plant extracts, bitter substances, humectants, protein hydrolysates, perfumes, UV filters, structuring agents such as maleic acid, active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, antioxidants, and preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate or salicylic acid.
- active ingredient advantageously selected from the group comprising plant extracts, bitter substances, humectants, protein hydrolysates, perfumes, UV filters, structuring agents such as maleic acid, active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, antioxidants, and preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate or salicylic acid.
- Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be produced from all parts of a plant. Usually, these extracts are produced by extracting the entire plant. However, in some cases it may also be preferable to produce extracts exclusively from the flowers and/or leaves of the plant.
- the most suitable extracts are Paeonia Lactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, Malus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Saccharina, Cannabis Sativa, Green Tea, Oak Bark, Nettle, Hamamelis, Hops, Camomile, Burdock Root, Horsetail, Hawthorn, Linden Flower, Litchi, Almond, Aloe Vera, Spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, Thyme, lemon balm, hemlock, colt
- the extracts from Paeonia Lactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, Malus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Saccharina, Cannabis Sativa, Green Tea, Nettle, Hamamelis, Camomile, Aloe Vera, Ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and/or Boerhavia Diffusa roots are particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention.
- Water, alcohols and their mixtures can be used as extraction agents for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
- alcohols lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol are preferred, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extraction agent and mixed with water.
- polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extraction agent and mixed with water.
- the plant extracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain approx. 2-80 wt.% active substance and as solvent the extraction agent or mixture of extraction agents used in their extraction.
- the plant extracts can be used in the hair oils according to the invention (based on the total weight of the oils) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 % by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5 % by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 % by weight.
- Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are obtained by acid-catalysed, base-catalysed or enzymatically catalysed breakdown of proteins.
- the term “protein hydrolysates” is understood in accordance with the invention to also mean total hydrolysates and also individual amino acids and derivatives thereof as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
- the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates usable in accordance with the invention lies between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000 Daltons, and the molecular weight is preferably 75 to 50,000 Daltons, and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 Daltons.
- Preferred protein hydrolysates include Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Pearl and Hydrolyzed Silk.
- the hair oil according to the invention can also contain at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and/or one of the derivatives thereof.
- vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors that are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred in accordance with the invention.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin E (or a derivative thereof) are preferred.
- the hair oil disclosed herein may also include a perfume.
- a perfume is included in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 0.8 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 %, relative to the weight of the hair oil.
- a bitter substance is particularly important in cosmetics, household products etc., which are made up in such a way that their shape, colour, haptics etc. appeal to small children or babies and encourage them to play, which could also lead to swallowing.
- a bitter substance prevents this.
- Denatonium Benzoate is an extremely strong bitter substance and is therefore particularly effective even at very low concentrations. Furthermore, it is not associated with any known adverse effects.
- the silicone-free hair oil is preferably anhydrous.
- anhydrous means that the hair oil contains less than 5% water, by weight of the hair oil.
- the hair oil contains less than 3wt% water, more preferably less than 2wt% water, yet more preferably the hair oil contains less than 1 % water, yet more preferably less than 0.5wt% water and still more preferably less than 0.1wt% water. In some cases, the hair oil contains no water.
- the hair oil is typically not an emulsion.
- the hair oil is a homogenous hydrophobic hair oil.
- the hair oil according to the present invention is transparent.
- “transparent” is defined as meaning that the composition exhibits no turbidity. Turbidity may be measured in accordance with the scattered radiation method described in ISO 7027-1 :2016. Samples of the present invention were tested using the radiation of an LED at 860 nm. The measuring range was from 0.01 - 1000 NTU (nephelometric turbidity units).
- the hair oil according to the present invention is transparent, i.e. it exhibits a turbidity of less than 15 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU, measured in accordance with the scattered radiation method described in ISO 7027-1 :2016 using the radiation of an LED at 860 nm.
- the hair oil according to the present invention exhibits some turbidity.
- the hair oil may exhibit a turbidity of at least 15 NTU, preferably from 15 NTU to 1000 NTU, measured in accordance with the scattered radiation method described in ISO 7027-1 :2016 using the radiation of an LED at 860 nm.
- the hair oil is free from microplastics.
- the silicone-free hair oil according to the present invention is a leave-in oil.
- the oil is not rinsed from the hair once it has been applied.
- such an oil is applied to the hair after shampooing and optional conditioning.
- 'leave-on' means that the oil is left in the hair until the next hair wash, which may be a few days.
- a hair oil as defined herein comprising applying the hair oil to hair and not rinsing the hair until the next hair wash.
- the oil is applied after shampooing and optional conditioning.
- the hair oils according to the present invention may be prepared by any suitable method.
- the process comprises:
- the process steps are suitably carried out in a water- free, explosion-protected and rust-free cauldron.
- the process occurs under agitation.
- a silicone-free hair oil comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to Statement 1 comprising (i) a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement comprising (i) Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the thickener (i) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt% to 20wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement wherein the thickener (i) is present in an amount ranging from 0.3wt% to 10wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement wherein the thickener (i) is present in an amount ranging from 3wt% to 8wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil.
- the alkane (ii) is selected from the group consisting of isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement wherein the alkane (ii) is selected from the group consisting of n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement wherein the alkane (ii) is a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement wherein the alkane (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 20wt% to 75wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement wherein the alkane (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 40wt% to 65wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which has a viscosity ranging from 250 to 8,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which has a viscosity ranging from 500 to 6,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which has a viscosity ranging from 350 to 5,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which has a viscosity ranging from 400 to 4,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which has a viscosity ranging from 450 to 3,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which has a viscosity ranging from 500 to 2,500 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement further comprising: a. one or more triglycerides.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement further comprising: b. one or more linear or branched esters.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement further comprising: c. one or more C1 to C5 mono alcohols.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which is anhydrous.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which contains less than 5% water, by weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which contains less than 3wt% water, by weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which contains less than 2wt% water, by weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which contains less than 1wt% water, by weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which contains less than 0.5 wt% water, by weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which contains less than 0.1 wt% water, by weight of the hair oil.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which contains no water.
- a silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement which is a leave-in oil.
- Use of a hair oil according to any preceding Statement comprising applying the hair oil to hair and leaving the oil on the hair.
- the Sunflower oil, Undecane, Tridecane and Tocopherol are present in the raw material Cetiol® Ultimate, available from BASF.
- the Sunflower oil, Undecane, Tridecane and Tocopherol are present in the raw material Cetiol® Ultimate, available from BASF.
- OilkemiaTM 5S polymer (INCI Name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Polyurethane-79; available from Lubrizol) provides 30% solids in Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a silicone-free hair oil comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
Description
,, Silicone-free hair oil“
The invention relates to silicone-free hair oils comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms, and their use for the care of keratin fibers, in particular hair.
Hair conditioners with a conditioning effect consist mainly of quats (quaternary ammonium compounds), silicone oils, fatty acids and polymers. For several years, the field of hair cosmetics has been developing hair oils composed mainly of silicone oils. In addition, hair oils are used as "leavein products," meaning that the formulations remain in the hair without subsequent rinsing. The consumer thus saves time and water. From this point of view, hair oils enjoy advantageous sustainability. The success of hair oils of this type on the market is very high. However, silicone oils are a constant source of criticism. The main difficulty in replacing silicone oils in hair oils is to find natural oils or natural raw materials that do not stress or grease the hair.
New combinations are being sought that can ensure a noticeable care effect and good stability, and which are silicone-free.
While there are silicone-free hair oils on the market, these are either emulsions or water-based serums. The problem with these hair oils is that they are not sufficiently thickened (i.e. they have a viscosity below 200 mPa.s), which leads to problems in terms of the user not being able to apply the proper dosage. There are no commercially-available hair oils used as leave-on products that are silicone-free and thickened to a viscosity that is pleasing and acceptable to the user, and which provides the oil in a controllable amount.
In general, increased viscosity is an advantage when applying cosmetic compositions to the hair, as these products can thus be used sparingly and be distributed well. In addition, the consumer associates increased-viscosity products with an increased performance in terms of care. Special gelforming thickeners are also required to stabilize solid particles such as pigments or peels and nourishing oils and waxes in the hair product. Although thickening agents based on synthetic polymers used in cosmetics are readily biodegradable and do not enter the surface waters as solids, they are increasingly critically considered by larger consumer groups and in some cases mistakenly associated with the microplastic problem.
Thus, it is desirable to find a suitable oil thickenerthat improves the haptics of the oil for better overall performance and distribution. At the same time, it is important to formulate a product that has advantageous properties in terms of consistency, hair grip, combability, care level, shine, spreadability and suppleness. Furthermore, providing a hair oil that is free from microplastics is also an objective.
A further consideration is to ensure that the inclusion of any new ingredient does not adversely affect the normal function of the other ingredients and provides good compatibility with the rest of the formulation.
The inventors have formulated a combination of ingredients which is particularly suited to silicone- free hair oils. Surprisingly, the inclusion of at least one alkane (as defined herein) together with either a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid or Polyurethane-79 (or both thickeners) in a hair oil enables the oil to exclude silicone-based ingredients but still have advantageous haptics and care properties. Advantageously, the viscosity provided by the combination of ingredients is very pleasing to the consumer.
Summary of the invention
According to the present invention, there is provided a silicone-free hair oil comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms. The inventors have worked intensively to formulate a hair oil without silicone but with the desired consistency and feel that is desired of a hair oil. Surprisingly, the combination of at least one thickener as defined herein plus at least one alkane provides a hair oil with a very pleasing thickness and feel. Furthermore, the combination of ingredients provides a hair oil with advantageous properties in terms of hair grip, combability, care level, shine, speadability and suppleness.
In the context of the present invention, “silicone-free” is taken to mean that the hair oil is free from organosilicon compounds, in particular free from silicones, trisiloxanes, and silicone oils.
Suitably, the thickener (i) comprises the polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and no Polyurethane-79. Alternatively, the thickener (i) comprises the Polyurethane-79 and no polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid. Alternatively, the thickener (i) comprises both the polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and Polyurethane-79.
Suitably, the polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid is dextrin palmitate. Dextrin palmitate may be obtained from Chiba Flour Milling/Miyoshi Europe in the form of the raw material Rheopearl KL2.
Polyurethane-79 is the INCI name given to the product available from Lubrizol. It is a high molecular weight, non-ionic, hydrophobically modified polyurethane prepared by reacting a hydrogenated polyolefin diol, a linear aliphatic diisocyanate, a linear diol chain extender, a hydrogenated dimerized fatty alcohol, and end-capped with a fatty alcohol.
It is preferably to formulate a hair oil having a viscosity that provides for easy application by the user. Preferably, the hair oils defined herein have a viscosity ranging from 250 to 8,000 mPa.s. The viscosity is as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at about 20 rpm at 20°C. Preferable viscosity ranges for the hair oil are:
• 300 to 8,000 mPa.s
• 350 to 8,000 mPa.s
• 350 to 6,000 mPa.s
• 350 to 5,000 mPa.s
• 350 to 4,000 mPa.s
• 400 to 4,000 mPa.s
• 400 to 3,500 mPa.s
• 500 to 3,000 mPa.s
Preferably, the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt% to 20wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil, preferably from 0.3wt% to 10wt%, more preferably from 0.5wt% to 10wt%, yet more preferably from 1wt% to 8wt%, yet more preferably from 2wt% to 8wt%, yet more preferably from 2wt% to 7wt%.
The alkane component (ii) comprises a C8 to C17 branched or linear, substituted or unsubstituted alkane. Suitably, the alkane component (ii) is a mixture of two or more (preferably two) different C8 to C17 branched or linear, substituted or unsubstituted alkanes. The alkane is suitably selected from one or more of the group consisting of isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, n-undecane, n- dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alkane is a linear alkane. Preferably, the alkane is a C9-C15 linear alkane. More preferably, the alkane is n-undecane, n-dodecane, n- tridecane or mixtures thereof. Suitably, the alkane is a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane. More preferably, the hair oil contains no branched alkanes.
Suitably, the alkane component (ii) (i.e. the total amount of alkane, in case more than one is present) is from about 10% to about 90% by weight of the total composition, i.e. by weight of the hair oil. Preferably, the alkane component (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 20wt% to 85wt%, more preferably from 20wt% to 75wt%, more preferably from 30wt% to 65wt%, more preferably from 40wt% to 65wt%.
The silicone-free hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise:
• one or more triglycerides;
• one or more linear or branched esters; and/or
• one or more C1 to C5 mono alcohols.
Thus, the hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise one or more triglycerides. A triglyceride is a triple ester of glycerin with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-30 fatty acids. For example, the triglyceride comprises or consists of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Suitably, the hair oil comprises a mixture of mono-, di- and triglycerides derived from coconut oil. For example, the hair oil may comprise the material known by the INCI name Cocoglycerides, available from BASF. Thus, the triglyceride component may include a mixture of glycerides, as long as at least one triglyceride is present in the mixture.
When present, the triglyceride component is present in an amount up to 40% by weight of the hair oil. Suitably, the triglyceride component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 40wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 35wt%, more preferably from 10wt% to 35wt%, yet more preferably from 20wt% to 35wt%.
The hair oil according to the present invention may comprise one or more linear or branched esters. Such esters (other than any triglyceride(s) present) are cosmetic oils and may be selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These preferably include 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, Isotridecyl isonanoate, cetearyl isonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleylerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables and Isoamyl Laurate.
Alternative esters may be selected from the group of dicarboxylic acid esters, carbonate esters and diol esters. These are understood to be:
• dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelaate and
• diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol-di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol-di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol-di-isostearate, propylene glycol-di- pelargonate, butanediol-di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and
• symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, such as glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (CETIOL® CC).
When present, the ester component is present in an amount up to 70% by weight of the hair oil. Suitably, the ester component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 60wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 55wt%, more preferably from 10wt% to 60wt%, yet more preferably from 20wt% to 50wt%.
The hair oil according to the present invention may comprise one or more C1 to C5 mono alcohols. Such alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated; preferably saturated. Such alcohols may be linear or branched; preferably linear. Preferably, the alcohol is ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol, n-butanol or t-butanol. More preferably, the alcohol component comprises ethanol.
When present, the monoalcohol component is present in an amount up to 30% by weight of the hair oil. Suitably, the monoalcohol component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 25wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 20wt%, more preferably from 7wt% to 15wt%.
The hair oil according to the present invention may comprise a further cosmetic oil, meaning an oil other than the alkane component (ii), which other oil is suitable for cosmetic purposes (and as long as it is not a silicone oil). Such cosmetic oils may be a natural oil, an ester oil, a synthetic oil and such like.
A natural oil as contemplated herein is a non-synthetic oil. More specifically, such an oil may be found in naturally occurring raw material sources, for example of microbial, plant or animal origin, but in particular plant origin and can be obtained therefrom. Examples of a natural oil of this kind are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, olive oil, mandarin oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba seed oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, wheat germ oil, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, and the liquid fractions of coconut oil.
When present, the natural oil is present in an amount up to a30% by weight of the hair oil. Suitably, the natural oil component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 25wt%, preferably from 2wt% to 15wt%, more preferably from 3wt% to 10wt%.
Alternatively, the hair oil comprises only a small amount of a natural oil. For example, the hair oil may contain less than 1 % natural oil based on the weight of the hair oil. It is thought that the combination of the thickener component (i) as defined herein with the alkane component (ii) as defined herein provides the advantageous consistency and feel of the hair oil, and that the inclusion of a natural oil component may not be necessary in order to provide such beneficial properties.
The hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise a solid fat or oil, for example a solid vegetable oil and/or solid vegetable butter. Particularly preferred are plant butters with a melting point in the range from 20°C to 35°C, such as Shea Butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mango Butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (INCI designation: Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), Cocoa Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter) and/or Cupuacu Butter (INCI designation: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Japan Wax, Synthetic Japan Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter and mixtures thereof. Shea butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) is particularly preferred.
When present, the solid oil or fat is present in an amount up to 15% by weight of the hair oil. Suitably, the solid oil or fat component is present in an amount ranging from 0.1wt% to 12wt%, preferably from 0.3wt% to 10wt%, more preferably from 0.5wt% to 8wt%.
The hair oil according to the present invention may further comprise one or more fatty alcohols. Such fatty alcohols are selected from fatty alcohols having 8 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Suitably, the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and coco alcohol.
When present, the fatty alcohol component is present in an amount up to 30% by weight of the hair oil. Suitably, the fatty alcohol component is present in an amount ranging from 1wt% to 25wt%, preferably from 5wt% to 20wt%, more preferably from 7wt% to 15wt%.
In addition to the ingredients described above, the hair oils according to the invention may contain at least one active ingredient advantageously selected from the group comprising plant extracts, bitter substances, humectants, protein hydrolysates, perfumes, UV filters, structuring agents such as maleic acid, active ingredients such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, antioxidants, and preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate or salicylic acid.
Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be produced from all parts of a plant. Usually, these extracts are produced by extracting the entire plant. However, in some cases it may also be preferable to produce extracts exclusively from the flowers and/or leaves of the plant. The most suitable extracts are Paeonia Lactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, Malus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Saccharina, Cannabis Sativa, Green Tea, Oak Bark, Nettle, Hamamelis, Hops, Camomile, Burdock Root, Horsetail, Hawthorn, Linden Flower, Litchi, Almond, Aloe Vera, Spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime,
wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, Thyme, lemon balm, hemlock, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Boerhavia diffusa roots, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens. The extracts from Paeonia Lactiflora, Rosa Damascena Flower, Malus Domestica Fruit, Argania Spinosa Shell Powder, Laminaria Saccharina, Cannabis Sativa, Green Tea, Nettle, Hamamelis, Camomile, Aloe Vera, Ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea and/or Boerhavia Diffusa roots are particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention. Water, alcohols and their mixtures can be used as extraction agents for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol are preferred, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extraction agent and mixed with water. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of 1 :10 to 10:1 have proven to be particularly suitable. The plant extracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain approx. 2-80 wt.% active substance and as solvent the extraction agent or mixture of extraction agents used in their extraction. The plant extracts can be used in the hair oils according to the invention (based on the total weight of the oils) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 % by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5 % by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 % by weight.
Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are obtained by acid-catalysed, base-catalysed or enzymatically catalysed breakdown of proteins. The term “protein hydrolysates” is understood in accordance with the invention to also mean total hydrolysates and also individual amino acids and derivatives thereof as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates usable in accordance with the invention lies between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000 Daltons, and the molecular weight is preferably 75 to 50,000 Daltons, and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 Daltons. Preferred protein hydrolysates include Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Pearl and Hydrolyzed Silk.
As a care substance, the hair oil according to the invention can also contain at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and/or one of the derivatives thereof. Here, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors that are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred in accordance with the invention. In particular, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Vitamin E (or a derivative thereof) are preferred.
The hair oil disclosed herein may also include a perfume. Suitably, a perfume is included in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 0.8 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 %, relative to the weight of the hair oil.
A bitter substance is particularly important in cosmetics, household products etc., which are made up in such a way that their shape, colour, haptics etc. appeal to small children or babies and encourage them to play, which could also lead to swallowing. A bitter substance prevents this. Denatonium Benzoate is an extremely strong bitter substance and is therefore particularly effective even at very low concentrations. Furthermore, it is not associated with any known adverse effects.
The silicone-free hair oil is preferably anhydrous. In the context of the present disclosure, “anhydrous” means that the hair oil contains less than 5% water, by weight of the hair oil. Preferably, the hair oil contains less than 3wt% water, more preferably less than 2wt% water, yet more preferably the hair oil contains less than 1 % water, yet more preferably less than 0.5wt% water and still more preferably less than 0.1wt% water. In some cases, the hair oil contains no water.
The hair oil is typically not an emulsion. Suitably, the hair oil is a homogenous hydrophobic hair oil.
Preferably, the hair oil according to the present invention is transparent. In the context of the current disclosure, “transparent” is defined as meaning that the composition exhibits no turbidity. Turbidity may be measured in accordance with the scattered radiation method described in ISO 7027-1 :2016. Samples of the present invention were tested using the radiation of an LED at 860 nm. The measuring range was from 0.01 - 1000 NTU (nephelometric turbidity units).
Therefore, in one embodiment, the hair oil according to the present invention is transparent, i.e. it exhibits a turbidity of less than 15 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU, measured in accordance with the scattered radiation method described in ISO 7027-1 :2016 using the radiation of an LED at 860 nm.
In another embodiment, the hair oil according to the present invention exhibits some turbidity. For example, the hair oil may exhibit a turbidity of at least 15 NTU, preferably from 15 NTU to 1000 NTU, measured in accordance with the scattered radiation method described in ISO 7027-1 :2016 using the radiation of an LED at 860 nm.
Preferably, the hair oil is free from microplastics.
Suitably, the silicone-free hair oil according to the present invention is a leave-in oil. In other words, the oil is not rinsed from the hair once it has been applied. Usually, such an oil is applied to the hair after shampooing and optional conditioning.
The term 'leave-on' means that the oil is left in the hair until the next hair wash, which may be a few days.
There is also provided by the present invention the use of a hair oil as defined herein, comprising applying the hair oil to hair and not rinsing the hair until the next hair wash. Suitably, the oil is applied after shampooing and optional conditioning.
The hair oils according to the present invention may be prepared by any suitable method. For example, the process comprises:
1 . heating all non-flammable ingredients until a clear, homogeneous mixture is obtained;
2. allowing the mixture to cool; and
3. adding any flammable ingredients at a suitable temperature until the mixture is homogeneous.
It would be well understood by a skilled person, which temperatures are required in steps 1 and 3, depending on the ingredients. For example, the process may involve:
1 . heating all non-flammable ingredients to around 80°C until a clear, homogeneous mixture is obtained;
2. allowing the mixture to cool; and
3. adding any flammable ingredients at a temperature below 50°C (or below 30°C, depending on the ingredients) until the mixture is homogeneous.
As will be appreciated by the skilled person, the process steps are suitably carried out in a water- free, explosion-protected and rust-free cauldron. Suitably, the process occurs under agitation.
The invention may be defined by the following statements:
1 . A silicone-free hair oil comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
2. A silicone-free hair oil according to Statement 1 comprising (i) a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
3. A silicone-free hair oil according to Statement 1 or 2, wherein the polymeric ester comprises dextrin palmitate.
4. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement comprising (i) Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
5. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the thickener (i) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt% to 20wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil.
6. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the thickener (i) is present in an amount ranging from 0.3wt% to 10wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil.
A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the thickener (i) is present in an amount ranging from 3wt% to 8wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane (ii) is selected from the group consisting of isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane (ii) is selected from the group consisting of n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane (ii) is a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 90% based on the total weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 20wt% to 75wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, wherein the alkane (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 40wt% to 65wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which has a viscosity ranging from 250 to 8,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which has a viscosity ranging from 500 to 6,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which has a viscosity ranging from 350 to 5,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which has a viscosity ranging from 400 to 4,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which has a viscosity ranging from 450 to 3,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which has a viscosity ranging from 500 to 2,500 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at 20 rpm at 20°C. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, further comprising: a. one or more triglycerides. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, further comprising: b. one or more linear or branched esters. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, further comprising: c. one or more C1 to C5 mono alcohols. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which is anhydrous. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which contains less than 5% water, by weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which contains less than 3wt% water, by weight of the hair oil.
A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which contains less than 2wt% water, by weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which contains less than 1wt% water, by weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which contains less than 0.5 wt% water, by weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which contains less than 0.1 wt% water, by weight of the hair oil. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which contains no water. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding Statement, which is a leave-in oil. Use of a hair oil according to any preceding Statement, comprising applying the hair oil to hair and leaving the oil on the hair.
Examples
The following are non-limiting examples of the present invention.
Table 1 - formulations containing Dextrin Palmitate
The Sunflower oil, Undecane, Tridecane and Tocopherol are present in the raw material Cetiol® Ultimate, available from BASF.
Table 2 - formulations containing Polyurethane-79
The Sunflower oil, Undecane, Tridecane and Tocopherol are present in the raw material Cetiol® Ultimate, available from BASF.
Oilkemia™ 5S polymer (INCI Name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Polyurethane-79; available from Lubrizol) provides 30% solids in Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides.
The viscosities of the above formulations were measured using a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at about 20 rpm at 20°C. The results are shown in Table 3 below.
Table 3 - viscosity values
It will be appreciated that the invention may be modified within the scope of the appended claims.
Claims
1 . A silicone-free hair oil comprising (i) a thickener selected from a polymeric ester of a saccharide and a fatty acid and/or Polyurethane-79, and (ii) at least one branched or linear alkane having 8 to 17 carbon atoms.
2. A silicone-free hair oil according to claim 1 , wherein the polymeric ester comprises dextrin palmitate.
3. A silicone-free hair oil according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thickener (i) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1wt% to 20wt% based on the total weight of the hair oil, preferably from 0.3wt% to 10wt%, more preferably from 3wt% to 8wt%.
4. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding claim, wherein the alkane (ii) is selected from the group consisting of isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, n-undecane, n- dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof, preferably n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and mixtures thereof.
5. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding claim, wherein the alkane (ii) is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 90% based on the total weight of the hair oil, preferably from 20wt% to 75wt%, more preferably from 40wt% to 65wt%.
6. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding claim, which has a viscosity ranging from 250 to 8,000 mPa.s, as measured by a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 4 at about 20 rpm at 20°C; preferably the viscosity ranges from 500 to 6,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 350 to 5,000 mPa.s.
7. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding claim, further comprising: a. one or more triglycerides; b. one or more linear or branched esters; and/or c. one or more C1 to C5 mono alcohols.
8. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding claim, which is anhydrous.
9. A silicone-free hair oil according to any preceding claim, which is a leave-in oil.
10. Use of a hair oil according to any preceding claim, comprising applying the hair oil to hair and leaving the oil on the hair.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| DE102022214038 | 2022-12-20 | ||
| PCT/EP2023/082163 WO2024132314A1 (en) | 2022-12-20 | 2023-11-17 | Silicone-free hair oil |
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| EP4637689A1 true EP4637689A1 (en) | 2025-10-29 |
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| FR3022775B1 (en) * | 2014-06-30 | 2018-03-02 | L'oreal | ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC GELIFIER, AT LEAST TWO SEPARATE LOADS OF ANOTHER AND A FATTY PHASE |
| DE102017223528A1 (en) * | 2017-12-21 | 2019-06-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair oils for conditioning keratinous fibers |
| CN116528826A (en) * | 2020-12-09 | 2023-08-01 | 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 | Increased solubilization of Bei Mo triazinols |
-
2023
- 2023-11-17 WO PCT/EP2023/082163 patent/WO2024132314A1/en not_active Ceased
- 2023-11-17 EP EP23809176.3A patent/EP4637689A1/en active Pending
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| WO2024132314A1 (en) | 2024-06-27 |
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