EP4572856A1

EP4572856A1 - A long-wear facial composition

Info

Publication number: EP4572856A1
Application number: EP23755089.2A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Ravi Krishnan; Rajiv Sureshrao KULKARNI
Original assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV
Current assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV
Priority date: 2022-08-18
Filing date: 2023-08-10
Publication date: 2025-06-25
Also published as: WO2024037974A1

Abstract

The present invention provides a facial cosmetic composition comprising a silicone resin comprising 1 to 8wt% by weight of the composition, the resin comprising a silsesquioxane derivative and a siloxysilicate derivative; and a humectant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% comprising a saccharide based and a glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent. The facial cosmetic composition of the present invention is used for skin moisturization for up to 24 hours.

Description

A LONG-WEAR FACIAL COMPOSITION

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to a facial composition. It more particularly relates to colour cosmetics such as facial foundations especially long-wear compositions that comprise resin and humectant.

Background of the invention

A composition for face such as a facial foundation is used to get a perfect skin tone and desired color and as a base for further application of make-up. However, the foundations have their own set of problems such as dry patches of foundation, the skin getting too shiny or oily, wearing off of foundation within a few hours. As foundations are used as base for further application of make-up, if the foundation is not proper, everything built on top of it will be wobbly and compromised and result in overall undesirable appearance.

Facial foundations are used in cosmetology to provide bases for obtaining proper adhesion of powder and pigments to skin. Such compositions comprise a mixture of oils, fats, waxes and the like in which there have been uniformly dispersed dry powders, such as talc, and pigments.

The facial foundations now in use have poor wear and color stability so that in a few hours after the application the preparation begins to wear off the skin and to change color ("orange out"). These effects result from the interaction of perspiration, skin oils and surface moisture of the skin with the oils, pigments and powders in the foundation.

When pigments, especially inorganic pigments, are used as colorants in cosmetic products, a uniform dispersion with a consistent color development and a good dispersion stability are required. However, pigments, especially inorganic pigments, such as titanium oxides (dioxides or the like) and iron oxides and the like, tend to aggregate due to their fine particle size and strong hydrophilic nature. Therefore, when the pigments are dispersed in the oily materials, the poor affinity of the pigments and oily materials leads to a high viscosity of the dispersions (mixtures of said pigments and said oily materials) and it is impossible to achieve a good dispersion even with an extended shear.

There have been numerous foundations that are long stay or long-wear. Though they may be able to stay for long, but they have the problem of making the skin appear dry or ‘cakey’ as the foundations are made thicker due to high pigment loading and for achieving the property of long-stay. This gives the skin an unnatural appearance. Further, even if the foundation is able to stay intact on the skin with a desirable appearance, the after effects are bad, such as dry and flaky skin as the foundation saps the skin of moisture during its stay on the skin.

Whenever formulators are faced with the objective of long stay formulations, the logical inclination is to raise the wt% of silicone resins, which gives a heavy, cakey feel to the consumer and is also difficult to remove.

Therefore, there is a need for a facial foundation that has the right amount of pigment loading for desirable colour and tone of the skin; and long stay property without compromising the moisture content of the skin.

Summary of the invention

According to the first aspect, the present invention relates to a facial cosmetic composition comprising: a. A silicone resin comprising 1 to 8 wt% by weight of the composition, the resin comprising a silsesquioxane derivative and a siloxysilicate derivative,

A humectant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% comprising a saccharide based and a glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent; andwherein, the composition further comprises a thixotropic agent in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition. These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the following detailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilized in any other aspect of the invention.

The term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive It is noted that the examples given in the description below are intended to clarify the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples per se. Similarly, all percentages are weight/weight percentages unless otherwise indicated.

Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description and claims indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about".

Numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "from x to y", it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated.

It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount.

For a more complete understanding of the above and other features and advantages of the invention, reference should be made to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments.

Detailed description of the invention The present invention relates to a facial composition. It more particularly relates to flowable colour cosmetics such as facial foundations especially long-wear compositions that comprise resin and humectant.

The present invention provides a facial cosmetic composition comprising: a. A silicone resin comprising 1 to 8 wt% by weight of the composition, the resin comprising a silsesquioxane derivative and a siloxysilicate derivative, b. A humectant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% comprising a saccharide based and a glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent; and wherein, the composition further comprises a thixotropic agent in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition.

Currently the cosmetic products are expected to deliver high coverage and long-wear and should be moisturising the skin. However, combining the three attributes and to deliver a superior sensory is challenging aspect. The present invention delivers all the three parameters without compromising on any of them.

The present inventors surprisingly found that the composition of the present invention was able to have high pigment loading, even as high as 45% and still the facial composition was able to give a stable appearance on the skin for long hours as long as 10 hrs, 12 hrs, 15 hrs, 20 hrs or even 24 hours. It was also surprising finding of the present invention that the skin remained moisturized during the time that the facial composition remained on the skin and even after the removal of the facial composition. As it is usually seen that long stay colour pigment loaded facial compositions of foundations usually dry the skin during the time of their stay on the skin and after removal.

It was also a surprising finding that a composition with low levels of silicone resin is effective as a long wear composition as it is well known in the makeup industry that only high silicone resin work to achieve a long wear facial cosmetic composition. Facial cosmetic composition

The present invention provides a facial cosmetic composition and more particularly a facial foundation composition which is preferably flowable and more preferably a liquid composition. The composition is capable of coloured pigment loading.

It is preferable that the composition of the present invention is intended for use as a foundation. By the term ‘foundation’ it is meant that the composition is used as a base or a pre-makeup base on the face before makeup is applied. The foundation can also be used to even out the skin tone and/or to conceal any flaws and give a uniform appearance to the face.

The composition of the present invention comprises a silicone resin and a humectant. The silicone resin comprises a silsesquioxane derivative, a siloxysilicate derivative, and mixtures and combinations thereof. The humectant comprises a saccharide based and a glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent.

Silicone resin

Silicone resins are a type of silicone material which is formed by branched, cagelike oligosiloxanes with the general formula of R_nSiX_mO_y, where R is a non reactive substituent, usually Methyl (Me) or Phenyl (Ph), and X is a functional group Hydrogen (H), Hydroxyl group (OH), Chlorine (Cl) or Alkoxy group (OR). Silicone resin are known in the art as "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the various monomeric siloxane units which make up the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" denotes a different type of unit. The letter M denotes the monofunctional unit (CHshSiO. This unit is considered to be monofunctional because the silicone atom only shares one oxygen when the unit is part of a polymer.

The "M" unit can be represented by the following structure:

At least one of the methyl groups of the M unit may be replaced by another group, e.g., to give a unit with formula [R(CHs)2]SiO, as represented in the following structure: wherein R is chosen from groups other than methyl groups. Non-limiting examples of such groups other than methyl groups include alkyl groups other than methyl groups, alkene groups, alkyne groups, hydroxyl groups, thiol groups, ester groups, acid groups, ether groups, wherein the groups other than methyl groups may be further substituted.

The symbol D denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO2 wherein two oxygen atoms bonded to the silicone atom are used for binding to the rest of the polymer. The "D" unit, which is the major building block of dimethicone oils, can be represented as:

At least one of the methyl groups of the D unit may be replaced by another group, e.g., to give a unit with formula [R(CH₃)2]SiC>2.

The symbol T denotes the trifunctional unit, (CH₃)SiO3 and can be represented as: At least one of the methyl groups of the T unit may be replaced by another group.

The symbol Q denotes the tetrafunctional unit, SiC wherein all four oxygens bonded to the silicone atom are bonded to the rest of the polymer.

Silicone polymers used for the purposes of the present invention may include silanes, siloxanes, siloxysilicates, and silsesquioxanes. A preferable example of a silsesquioxane is Polymethylsilsesquioxanes (PMSQ). Polymethylsilsesquioxanes are silsesquioxanes that do not have a substituent replacing the methyl groups.

A preferable example of a siloxysilicate is trimethylsiloxysilicate.

According to one embodiment, the silicone resin comprises at least one silicone resin selected from group consisting of siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane or other silicone polymers.

Most preferred silicone resins are but not limited to, for example, MQ resins (for example, trimethylsiloxysilicates), T-propyl silsesquioxanes and MK resins (for example, polymethylsilsesquioxanes).

It is highly preferred that the ratio of silsesquioxane derivative to siloxysilicate derivative in the composition of the present invention is in the range of 1:99 to 99:1.

Silsesquioxane derivative

The present invention comprises a silicone resin comprising a silsesquioxane derivative. It is preferred that the silsesquioxane derivative is in the range from 0.5 to 7 wt% more preferably from 1 to 7 wt%, even more preferably from 1 to 6 wt%, furthermore preferably from 1 to 5 wt%, yet more preferably from 1 to 4 wt%, still more preferably from 1 to 3 wt% and still even more preferably from 1 to 2 wt% by weight of the composition.

It is further preferred that the silsesquioxane derivative is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% more preferably from 1 to 90 wt%, even more preferably from 1 to 80 wt%, furthermore preferably from 1 to 70 wt% and still more preferably from 1 to 50 wt% by weight of the silicone resin.

Highly preferred silsesquioxane derivative are polysilsesquioxanes of formula (CHsSiO3/2)n (units T) in which n is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals of which may be substituted with a group R.

The most preferred silsesquioxane is polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ). PMSQs are silsesquioxanes that do not have a substituent replacing the methyl groups. Siloxysilicate derivative

The present invention comprises a silicone resin comprising a siloxysilicate derivative. It is preferred that the siloxysilicate derivative is in the range from 0.5 to 7 wt% by weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 7 wt%, even more preferably from 1 to 6 wt%, furthermore preferably from 1 to 5 wt%, yet more preferably from 1 to 4 wt%, still more preferably from 1 to 3 wt% and still even more preferably from 1 to 2 wt% by weight of the composition.

It is further preferred that the siloxysilicate derivative is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% more preferably from 1 to 90 wt%, even more preferably from 1 to 80 wt%, furthermore preferably from 1 to 70 wt% and still more preferably from 1 to 50 wt% by weight of the silicone resin.

Such resins are sometimes referred to as "MQ resins" because of the presence of the monovalent (M) siloxane units and the quadrivalent or tetravalent (Q) silicon dioxide units. These functionalized resins have the general formula: where both R and R² may be either a phenyl group or a C1 -C12 alkyl group and both

M¹ and M² are independently selected from the group consisting of phenyl, phenethyl, polyether, hydrogen and C1-C23 alkyl group (which may also include halogen substituted hydrocarbon radicals) and wherein x, y and z satisfy the following relationship: 0.5 < (x+y)/z < 4.0 and one of x and y may be zero.

It is highly preferred that the siloxysilicate derivative is Trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMSS). The composition comprises total amount of a silsesquioxane derivative and a siloxysilicate derivative in the range from 1 to 8 wt%, preferably from 2 to 7 wt%, even more preferably from 3 to 6 wt% and further more preferably from 4 to 5 wt%.

It has been found that the composition with low levels of silicone resin is effective as a long wear composition as it is well known in the makeup industry that only high silicone resin work to achieve a long wear facial cosmetic composition.

By ‘low levels’ in the context of silicone resin, it is preferably meant that silicone resins in amounts less than or equal to 8 wt% by weight of the composition. In other words, it is preferably meant that silicone resin amounts are not exceeding 8 wt% by weight of the composition. By ‘high levels’ in the context of silicone resin, it is preferably meant that silicone resin amounts are exceeding 8 wt% by weight of the composition.

Humectant

The present invention comprises a humectant preferably in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition. A humectant as understood in the art helps to reduce loss of moisture for the skin.

The humectant of the present invention comprises a saccharide based and a glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent.

It is preferred that wherein the ratio of saccharide based moisturizing agent to glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent is in the range of 1 :99 to 99:1.

Saccharide based moisturizing agent

The present invention comprises a humectant comprising a saccharide-based moisturizing agent. It is preferred that the saccharide based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition. It is further preferred that the saccharide based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% by weight of the humectant. Preferably, the composition comprises saccharide based moisturizing agent in amounts from 0.001 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt%, furthermore preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt% and still more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the composition.

It is highly preferred that the saccharide based moisturizing agent of the present invention is Saccharide isomerate.

Preferably, the composition comprises Saccharide isomerate in amounts from 0.001 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt%, furthermore preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt% and still more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the composition.

Saccharide isomerate is a complex mixture of hydrating corn-derived sugars which have moisture-binding (humectant) properties. The sugars are then isomerized, a process in which rearranges molecular structure to change the way a substance works and/or the results it has. In this case, the result closely matches the carbohydrates naturally present in skin’s natural moisturizing factor, NMF.

Saccharide isomerate is commercially available under trade name ‘Pentavitin®’ (from DSM), under trade name Waterin (from Clariant), under trade names ‘EPS3 Powder’, ‘EPS4 Powder’, ‘EPS5 Powder’ and‘EPS15 Powder’ (all from Codif) and under trade name'Hyanify’ (from Lipotec S.A.).

Glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent

The present invention comprises a humectant comprising a glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent. It is preferred that the glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition. It is further preferred that the glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% by weight of the humectant.

Preferably, the composition comprises glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent in amounts from 0.001 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt%, furthermore preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt% and still more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the composition.

It is highly preferred that the glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent of the present invention is a hyaluronate or a hyaluronic acid derivative.

The term "hyaluronic acid" (also referred to as "HY" hereinafter) is used in literature to designate an acidic polysaccharide with various molecular weights constituted by residues of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, which naturally occur in cellular surfaces, in the basic extracellular substances of the connective tissues of vertebrates, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor of the eye, in the tissue of the human umbilical cord and in cocks' combs.

Preferably, the composition comprises hyaluronate derivative in amounts from 0.001 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt%, further more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt% and still more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the composition.

The glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent is a hyaluronate derivative.

Thixotropic Agent

Thixotropy is a characteristic feature of certain gels or fluids that exist in viscous form under normal conditions, but start flowing (become thin, less viscous) when shaken or agitated. Thixotropic agents are those that stimulate the process of thixotropy.

The present invention comprises a thixotropic agent in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition more preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt%, furthermore preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt% and still more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the composition.

Traditional polymer or cellulose-based thickeners that are well known in the industry may be used for stabilizing the composition. It is highly preferred that the thixotropic agent of the present invention comprises a lipophilic clay. The term "lipophilic clay" is intended to mean any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

The clay denotes a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates, of lamellar structure. The clays can be natural or synthetic and they are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt, such as a Cw to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

They are preferably chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and most preferably bentonites. According to one particularly preferred form, use will be made of a lipophilic clay chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, in particular modified with a C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chloride. An example of hectorite that may be used as a thixotropic agent in the compositions of the present invention include Disteardimonium Hectorite, commercially available as BENTON E GEL® VS-5 PC V.

It is highly preferred that the thixotropic agent is an activated thixotropic agent.

Antioxidant

The compositions of the present invention comprise an antioxidant capable of reversing or preventing free radicals from causing oxidative stress.

The present composition further comprises an antioxidant compound in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% more preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 7 wt%, further more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt% and still more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt% by weight of the composition. The antioxidants for the purposes of this invention are preferably selected from the group of Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), selenium, Coenzyme Q10, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, polyphenol, resveratrol.

The most preferred antioxidants for the present invention are the vitamin-based antioxidant and among those Vitamin B3 and C are highly preferred.

Formulation Base

A suitable base is used to prepare the cosmetic composition of the present invention. Formulation base may be water. It is preferred that the base is emulsion, preferably oil- in-water, water-in oil and silicone invert emulsions, and most preferably silicone invert emulsions (W/Si emulsion).

The present composition comprises a formulation base in the range of 10 to 40 wt%, more preferably 12 to 35wt% and most preferably in the range of 15 to 30wt%.

Light Emollients

Light emollients having low viscosity preferably less than 50cp may be used for the composition of the present invention. The common light emollients known in the industry can be used, preferably volatile emollients e.g. cyclopentasiloxane, having flash point less than 150°C.

The present composition comprises light emollients in the range of 10 to 40 wt%, more preferably 12 to 35wt% and most preferably in the range of 15 to 30wt%.

Pigments

The compositions of the present invention are capable of pigment loading in the range of 10 to 45 wt%, more preferably 15 to 45 wt%, further preferably in the range of 20 to 45 wt% and most preferably in the range of 25 to 45%wt%. It is preferred that the pigments are inorganic pigments and most preferably metal oxides or derivatives thereof. The present invention provides use of composition for manufacture of a cosmetic composition in loading pigment upto 45wt% of the composition. It is preferable that the present composition provides at least 20wt% of pigment loading, more preferably at least 25wt%, 26wt%, 27wt%, 28wt%, 29wt%, 30wt%, 31wt%, 32wt%, 33wt%, 34wt%,35wt%, 36wt%, 3wt5, 38wt%, 39wt%, 40wt%, 41wt%, 42wt%, 43wt%, 44wt%, and most preferably at least 45wt% by weight of the composition.

The inorganic pigments may be in the form of a powder and not particularly limited to inorganic powders generally used for cosmetics such as extenders, UV scattering agents, white pigments, pearlescent pigments, coloration pigments, and the like can be used.

For example, the inorganic powder used as an extender includes silicic acids such as silicic anhydride, silicic hydride and the like; silicates such as aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate and the like; clay minerals such as talc, kaolin, bentonite, mica, sericite and the like; phosphate minerals such as hydroxyapatite and the like; metal oxides such as aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide and the like; carbonates of alkaline earth metal such as light calcium carbonate, heavy calcium carbonate, light magnesium carbonate, heavy magnesium carbonate and the like; sulfates of alkaline earth metal such as magnesium sulfate, barium sulfate (platy barium sulfate, butterfly barium sulfate etc.) and the like; boron nitride and the like.

The inorganic powder used as a UV scattering agent or white pigment includes zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, zinc oxide fine particles, titanium oxide, titanium oxide fine particles and the like, and the inorganic powder used as a pearlescent pigment includes titanium mica, titanium oxide-coated barium sulfate, bismuth oxychloride and the like.

The inorganic powder used as a coloration pigment includes red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, chrome oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, carbon black, ultramarine blue, iron blue and the like.

Optional Ingredients Compositions of the present invention can include numerous cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected for various desirable effects. These ingredients can be either in dry or liquid form, however, at levels that do not detract from the primary objects of the present invention. Pigments are used in the present invention. Pigments may be selected from a large group of materials to numerous to mention herein. Included in this group are inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and pearlescent pigments. When employed, the pigments are present in proportions depending on the color and the intensity of the color which it is intended to produce. Pigments can be used in the present invention at levels from about 0.1% to about 45%, preferably from about 5 % to about 40% and most preferably from 10 to 40wt%. Pigments are selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic lake pigments, pearlesent pigments, and mixtures thereof. Said pigments may optionally be surface-treated with a large number of materials that include, but, not limited to silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, amino acids, lauroyllisine, teflon, and esters. Included are the pigments as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,368.639 and 5,458,681, both to Hasegawa et at, issued Nov. 29, 1994 and Oct. 17, 1995; both herein incorporated by reference. Inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index under the reference C 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, ceded under references CIT7.499, 77,492 and, 77.491; manganese violet (CIT7.742); ultramarine blue (CI77.007); chromium oxide (Cl 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI77.289); and ferric blue (Cl 77.510) and mixtures thereof. The organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of D&C Red No. 19 (Cl 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (Cl 15, 585). D&C Red NO. 21 (CI45.380), D&C Orange No. 4 (Cl 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI45.370), D&C Red No. 27 (Cl 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (Cl 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (Cl 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (Cl 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (Cl 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (Cl 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (Cl 45.425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (Cl 15985), D&C Red No.30 (Cl 73.360), D&C Red No. 3 (Cl 45,430) and the dye or lakes based on Cochineal Carmine (Cl 75,570) and mixtures thereof. The pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of the white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof. Any optional ingredients known to those skilled in the art may also be used in the invention. Examples of optional ingredients are disclosed in CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, pages 621-622, 623-626 and 637-639; incorporated herein by reference. Some of the more frequently used components include from about 1% to about 10% fillers and powders other than talc, including but not limited to the group consisting of treated and untreated mica, nylon, polyethylene, silica, polymethacrylate., kaolin, teflon, starch, oil absorbers and mixtures thereof. From about 1 to about 20% liquid ingredients including, but not limited to the group consisting of silicone oils; long chained fatty acid esters; glycerides; water; fragrances; skin condi tioning and protective materials including, botanical or biological products as disclosed in The CTFA, Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, pages 493-496; herein incorporated by reference. Other skin conditioning and protective material include, but, are not limited to panthenol, allantoin, aloe, aloeveragel, PABA, tocopheryl; and mixtures thereof. From about 0.1% to about 2% cos metic preservatives including, but not limited to the group consisting of methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, potassium sorbate, trisodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, ethyl alcohol, diazolidinyl urea, imidazo lidinyl urea, quaternium-15 and mixtures thereof.

Method

The composition of the invention may be obtained according to the preparation processes conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology.

The process of manufacture of the composition of the present invention comprises steps of taking the oil phase ingredients such as light emollients and resins; adding thixotropic agent; adding the pigments and making up with water and minors.

Use

The present invention provides a composition that is used as a makeup base, a foundation. The composition can be used to give an even tone to the skin on application. The composition of the present invention provides skin moisturization for at least 6 hours, and can provide skin moisturization upto 8 hours, 10 hours, 12 hours, 14 hours, 16 hours, 18 hours, 20 hours, 22 hours and upto 24 hours.

The present invention provides use of composition for manufacture of a cosmetic composition in loading pigment upto 45wt% of the composition.

The present invention provides use of composition for manufacture of a cosmetic composition in loading pigment upto 45wt% of the composition. It is preferable that the present composition provides at least 20wt% of pigment loading, more preferably at least 25wt%, 26wt%, 27wt%, 28wt%, 29wt%, 30wt%, 31wt%, 32wt%, 33wt%, 34wt%,35wt%, 36wt%, 3wt5, 38wt%, 39wt%, 40wt%, 41wt%, 42wt%, 43wt%, 44wt%, and most preferably at least 45wt% by weight of the composition.

A person skilled in the art may select the appropriate presentation form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended use of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners (especially clays, which are optionally modified), trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, acidifying or basifying agents, preserving agents and UV screening agents, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds, and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The examples of compositions below are given for illustrative purposes and with no limiting nature.

Examples While this invention has been described with respect to particular embodiments thereof, it is apparent that numerous other forms and modifications of the invention will be obvious to those skilled in the art. The appended claims and this invention generally should be construed to cover all such obvious forms and modifications which are within the true spirit and scope of the present invention.

Example 1

Preparation of formulations:

All the oil Phase ingredients including the silicone resins TMSS and PMSQ were weighed accurately and mixed until the mixing of emulsion and oil phase ingredients is homogenous. A thixotropic gel is added and stirred continuously till homogenous dispersion is achieved. The pigments were added. Water and minors were then added to make up the composition of the present invention. Table 1 provides an exemplary composition according to the first aspect of the present invention.

Table 1

Example 2

Consumer tests

The study was conducted to assess the retention of the product up to 24hrs with assessments at different time points. Base line time being the time point before the application of the composition of the present invention. 37 female subjects aged 18-45 years (both ages inclusive) were enrolled and all the 37 subjects completed the study. Among the 37 subjects, 10 self-perceived sensitive skin subjects were included.

Visit 1- (Day 1) - Subjects were screened based on the inclusion exclusion criteria and enrolled in the study after obtaining the informed consent. Subjects were asked to report to the site without any make up/product application. Subjects washed their face with water and were acclimatized at a room temperature for 10 minutes. Baseline assessment which included Dermatologist’s visual assessment, instrument measurement (Spectrophotometer, Corneometer) and imaging (VISIA) was performed. Post baseline assessment, the test product was applied by the expert to the subjects. TO assessment (5-10 minutes post product application) was performed which included dermatologist’s visual assessment, instrument measurement (Spectrophotometer, Corneometer) and subject self-assessment. Follow up assessment was performed at T8 and T12A. Post T12A assessment, subjects were asked to remove and reapply the test product. Subjects were instructed to return home and report to site after 12 hours. During this time, subjects were instructed not remove the product or wash their face.

On visit 2 (Day 2), subjects were reported to the site 12 hours after product application. Follow up assessment was performed at T12B, T14 hr, T16 hr, T18 hr, T20 hr and T24 hr.

Visit 3 (Day 3): Sweat room assessment Subjects were reported to the study site without any product application for sweat assessment. Subjects washed their face with water and acclimatized at a room temperature for 10. Post this, product was applied on the subject’s face and imaging was performed. Subjects sat in the hot room for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, subjects

Dermatological visual assessment

• Assessment for skin brightness

• Assessment for skin texture

• Assessment for skin dryness

• Assessment for even skin tone

Skin Dryness

The subjects were evaluated based on the below given scale

1. Very Dry- Stretchy, scaly, peeling

2. Dry- stretchy, wrinkly without peeling

3. Normal

4. Slightly Hydrated

5. Hydrated

Summary statistics:

*Higher mean value indicates reduction in skin dryness

Table 2 Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of skin dryness immediately after product application and at all-time points of evaluation in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in reducing skin dryness for up to 24 hours, thereby implying that the moisturization effect was up to 24 hours.

Skin Texture

The subjects were evaluated based on the below given scale

Table 3

*Higher mean value indicates improvement in skin texture

Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of skin texture immediately after product application and at all-time points of evaluation in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in improving skin texture, which was noted to be retained for up to 24 hours.

Skin Even tone

The subjects were evaluated based on the below given scale

Table 4

*Higher mean value indicates improvement in skin tone Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of skin even tone immediately after product application and at all-time points of evaluation in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in providing even toned skin, which was noted to be retained for up to 24 hours. Skin Brightness

The subjects were evaluated based on the below given scale

Table 5 *Higher mean value indicates improvement in skin brightness

Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of skin brightness immediately after product application and at all-time points of evaluation in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in improving skin brightness, which was noted to be retained for up to 24 hours.

Flawless skin

The subjects were evaluated based on the below given scale 0 = Skin with flaw (worst possible condition)

1 to 3 = mildly flawless skin

4 to 6 = moderately flawless skin

7 to 9 = Flawless skin (best possible condition)

Table 6

Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of flawless skin immediately after product application and at all-time points of evaluation in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in providing flawless skin, which was noted to be retained for up to 24 hours.

Pore Visibility

The subjects were evaluated based on the below given scale

0 =Highly visible pores (worst possible condition)

1 to 3 = mildly visible pores

4 to 6 = moderate visible pores

7 to 9 = No visible pore (lesser visibility of pores by means of shrinkage or filling the pores for visibly lesser pits

Table 7

* Higher mean value indicates reduction in visibility of pores

Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of visibility of pores immediately after product application and for up to T18 hours in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in reducing visibility of pores, which was noted to be retained for up to 18 hours.

Instrumental Assessment

Corneometer- Right and left cheek were assessed

Spectrophotometer- Forehead Control-Upper inner arm at the baseline were assessed At different time points Baseline, TO, T8, T12A, T12B, T14, T16, T18, T20 and T24.

Spectrophotometer Spectrophotometer is a handheld, portable measurement instrument. The measurement is based on absorption and Reflectance of light from the surface. The instrument provides the data in Lab* colour coordinates. L* value which is responsible for luminance/ brightness.

Spectrophotometer - L*- Skin Brightness

Table 8

* Higher mean value indicates improvement in skin brightness

Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of skin brightness immediately after product application and up to T20 hours in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in improving skin brightness, which was noted to be retained for up to 20 hours.

Spectrophotometer-ITA

Individual Topology Angle (ITA) - The difference along the yellow-blue axis (b* parameter), and along the lightness-darkness axis (L* parameter) determine the intensity of skin pigmentation. For an individual with lighter skin color, the ITA° can be expected to be a higher positive value than that of an individual with a darker skin phototype. Here, ITA° is compared for all-time points, with respect to baseline. Higher value indicates whiter/lighter skin when compared to baseline.

Calculation of ITA

Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of ITA immediately after product application and up to T20 hours in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in skin whitening, which was noted to be retained for up to 20 hours.

Spectrophotometer-AE

Calculation of AE

Where A = (Time point — Baseline)

Table 10

* Higher mean value indicates improvement in skin color

Observation: In comparison to TO, the colour of the test product was noted to be significantly similar at all-time points of evaluation, implying that the test product doesn't change color on the skin.

Corneometer- Skin Hydration

The Corneometer indicates the hydration level of the superficial layers of the skin (stratum corneum) via measurement of skin dielectric properties. The measurements were performed by the applying the probe to the skin surface. Upon contact, an electric field passes through the stratum corneum, and the dielectric constant is obtained

Table 11

* Higher mean value indicates improvement in skin hydration

Observation: There was significant increase noted in mean values of skin hydration immediately after product application and at all-time points of evaluation in comparison to baseline, implying that the test product was efficacious in providing skin hydration, which was noted to be retained for up to 24 hours.

Retention- Long wear

Objective

The images taken at all-time points were aligned in the same assessment sheet and compared with the time of application.

Table 12:

Observation: The test product was noted to be retained for up to 24 hours.

Example 3

Effect of Selection of Silicone resin combination:

For selection of silicon resin, the composition of the present invention was altered with various combinations of silicone resins with rest of the ingredients remaining the same.

Table 13:

Hence, it was observed that the best combination was PMSQ and TMSS which performed well in all the selected parameters.

Example 4

Sheer thinning and spreadability of the cosmetic composition

Balloon Test

The balloon test is qualitative test to evaluate elasticity of composition under stress

Material Required: Balloon (with Elasticity to blow 10X large to original size), Air Blower pump, Formulation/composition, thread.

Method- A balloon was taken of the above-mentioned capacity and the product was applied- 2mg/cm² on balloon. The balloon was inflated to minimum 10X and maximum 25X of its original state (non- Inflated) using the standard formula for volume of sphere.

The integrity of the product was checked at inflated state. The balloon was allowed to deflate to original state and again the integrity of the product applied on balloon was checked and the size of the area/stretching of the applied area was measured.

Both inflated and deflated states were compared to check the product integrity to ensure the elasticity of the product. It was observed that the current prototypes were elastic to 15X to 25X inflation of the balloon.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modification can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.

Claims

1. A facial cosmetic composition comprising: a. a silicone resin comprising 1 to 8 wt% by weight of the composition, the resin comprising a silsesquioxane derivative and a siloxysilicate derivative, b. a humectant in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% comprising a saccharide based and a glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent; and wherein, the composition further comprises a thixotropic agent in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition.

2. A composition according to claims 1, wherein the silsesquioxane derivative is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% by weight of the silicone resin.

3. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 or 2, wherein the siloxysilicate derivative is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% by weight of the silicone resin.

4. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 3, wherein the silsesquioxane derivative is Polymethylsilsesquioxane.

5. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 4, wherein the siloxysilicate derivative is Trimethylsiloxysilicate.

6. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 5, wherein the saccharide based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 6, wherein the saccharide based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% by weight of the humectant. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 7, wherein the glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt% by weight of the composition. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 8, wherein the glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent is in the range of 0.01 to 99.99 wt% by weight of the humectant. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 9, wherein the glucosamine glycan based moisturizing agent is a hyaluronate derivative. A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises an antioxidant compound in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt%. Use of composition according to anyone of the preceding claims from 1 to 11, for skin moisturization for up to 24 hours.