EP4486361A1

EP4486361A1 - Cosmetic use of a composition comprising an aqueous seaweed extract of pelvetia canaliculata for increasing gloss of skin

Info

Publication number: EP4486361A1
Application number: EP23706614.7A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Andrew Philip Salazar; Christophe Carola; Joerg Von Hagen
Original assignee: Merck Patent GmbH
Current assignee: SUSONITY Commercial GmbH
Priority date: 2022-02-28
Filing date: 2023-02-24
Publication date: 2025-01-08
Also published as: CN118632702A; WO2023161415A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising a special aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculata for increasing gloss of skin and to a method for enhancing gloss of skin in a subject for cosmetic purposes, the method comprising administering a composition comprising said special aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculata to a subject topically or orally, thereby enhancing gloss of skin.

Description

Cosmetic use of a composition comprising an aqueous seaweed extract of Pelvetia canaliculata for increasing gloss of skin

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising a special aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculata for increasing gloss of skin and to a method for enhancing gloss of skin in a subject for cosmetic purposes, the method comprising administering a composition comprising said special aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculata to a subject topically or orally, thereby enhancing gloss of skin.

Background of the Invention

Consumers are increasingly looking for green products made from natural raw materials. This is particularly the case for cosmetic products such as personal care products, skin care products which can be applied topically or which can be administered orally. Seaweeds, also called macro-algae, are interesting marine resources containing many active compounds such as sugars, amino acids, reserve and wall polysaccharides, polyphenols and/or lipids. Seaweeds have the ability to survive even in extreme conditions. The mucus they secret protect the skin from drying out since algae have developed a strong hydration mechanism to retain the moisture during tides. Also their vitamins protect the skin against environmental influences, acting as a natural anti-aging agent.

Pelvetia canaliculata is a brown algae endemic of the Breton coast.

FR2838340 A1 describes a cosmetic and dermatological composition containing an extract of brown algae Pelvetia canaliculata and a method of manufacturing said extract by maceration of the thallus in a solvent or a mixture of solvents followed by filtration and centrifugation to remove particles. Possible solvents therein described include water, chloroform, diethyl ether, acetone, alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or polyols such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol. It is reported that said extract is sought to protect the genetic material, to fight against the effects of skin aging, skin hyperpigmentation, pigmentation spots, loss of elasticity of the skin, wrinkles, irritation and inflammation due to various causes such as pollution and solar attacks.

However, there is still a strong need to have diversified solutions for reinforcing skin’s youthful glow. Summary of the Invention

The present inventors have now found that the above object may be attained by using a cosmetic composition or medical device as further described below.

The invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition or a medical device comprising an aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate as an agent for increasing gloss of skin wherein said aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is obtainable or obtained by a method comprising the following steps:

(1) providing dry algae of Pelvetia canaliculate-,

(2) adding water to the dry matter of (1);

(3) separating wet seaweed of (2) from a cytoplasmic extract and adding water to said separated paste;

(4) treatment of wet seaweed of (3) with protease at a basic pH, separating the enzymatic extract as filtrate from remaining paste;

(5) adding water to remaining paste in order to obtain an aqueous suspension of weight equivalent to that used in step (4), adjusting pH to 2 and stirring the mixture at elevated temperature followed by neutralizing the mixture; and

(6) collecting the filtrate.

The invention relates further to a method for enhancing gloss of skin in a subject for cosmetic purposes, the method comprising administering a composition containing an aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate to a subject topically or orally wherein said aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is obtainable or obtained by a method comprising the following steps:

(1) providing dry algae of Pelvetia canaliculate-,

(2) adding water to the dry matter of (1);

(6) collecting the filtrate, thereby enhancing gloss of skin. Detailed Description of the Invention

For the purposes of the invention, the term composition is used synonymously with formulation or preparation.

For the purposes of the invention, the term gloss is used synonymously with glow, brightness or radiance.

Analysis of gloss may be performed via the ColorFace® acquisition system developed by Newtone Technologies for standardized imaging in the clinical study setting for evaluation of a clinical effect. Images analysis is performed by Newtone Technologies to follow the evolution of the gloss parameters in particular contrast gloss. The contrast gloss is defined as the absolute difference between the mean intensity of bright pixels and the mean intensity of mat pixels on the gloss map.

Alternatively, measurements of gloss can be made per area using a Glossymeter, e.g. supplied from Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Germany. A Glossymeter evaluates the skin surface gloss (skin radiance, skin brightness) via measurement of light reflectance. When the probe is applied onto the skin, light is sent out by the probe and reflected by mirrors at 60°; the direct reflected light (gloss) and the diffused light are then measured. The device also provides a corrected value (DSC) which reduces the influence of diffused light related to skin color.

For the purposes of the invention skin is preferably human skin including face and body. The invention is therefore further related to the use as described before wherein skin is human skin.

In a preferred embodiment, skin is facial skin.

The invention is therefore further related to the use as described before wherein skin is facial skin.

The invention is furthermore related to the method for enhancing gloss of skin in a subject wherein said composition is applied to human skin, preferably facial skin.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, an aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is used wherein the average 2% dry matter of said extract contains 65% to 75% sugars, preferably 68% to 73% sugars, particularly preferably 69% to 70% sugars. The term sugars includes all kinds of saccharides including polysaccharides. Preferably, the term sugars means fucoidanes. The main component of the fucoidanes contained in said aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is fucose, followed by galactose, followed by xylose. The invention therefore relates to the use as described before or preferably described before wherein the average 2% dry matter of said aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate contains 65% to 75% sugars.

The invention therefore relates to the method as described before or preferably described before wherein the average 2% dry matter of said aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate contains 65% to 75% sugars.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, an aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is used wherein the average 2% dry matter of said extract contains beside of the given amounts of sugars as described before or preferably described before, 1.5% to 2% polyphenols, 4.0% to 5% triterpenoid-saponins and/or 20% to 25% sodium chloride.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, an aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is used wherein the average 2% dry matter of said extract contains 70% sugars, 1.7% polyphenols, 4.5% triterpenoid-saponis and 22% sodium chloride.

The manufacturing of the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate to be used according to the invention is described in FR3013219 A1.

Through the described process, the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate to be used according to the invention does not contain components of a cytoplasmic extract of Pelvetia canaliculate. Through the described process, the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate to be used according to the invention does not contain components of an enzymatic extract of Pelvetia canaliculate. The term “basic pH” is understood to mean advantageously a pH of 7.5 to 10.

Before step (4) using the protease, an extraction of the raw material in dehydrated form with an aqueous solution is carried out.

Dehydrated algae for step (1) can be used after harvest. The algae are optionally crushed, but it is preferred to use algae which has undergone a simple cutting. It is said that they are precut into small pieces before treatment with an aqueous solution. The extraction resulting in separation of a cytoplasmic extract preferably consists of stirring an aqueous suspension comprising the algae at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. It is reported that this cause an osmotic shock in order to burst the cells from pieces of algae suspended in the liquid. A paste is obtained which settles after stopping the stirring which should be separated by filtration. The skilled artisan is able to use any means for this step. Preferably, the filtrate is brought back into contact with the paste at least once by rinsing in order to recover the maximum amount of active substances. The filtrate is called the cytoplasmic extract.

The paste obtained is then taken up in water and treated with the protease as indicated above.

The proteases of choice for carrying out the enzymatic treatment are not limited but are advantageously serine proteases.

Preferably, 30 to 98% by mass of water are added in step (3) to the separated paste. Preferably, a base is added to adjust the pH of the solution between 7 and 10 to prepare the mixture for step (4). The mass percentages are expressed relative to the total mass of the mixture obtained comprising the separated paste. It is further preferred to bring said mixture to a temperature of 60°C to 80°C, then adding the protease. The mixture including the protease is left to act with stirring preferably for at least 2 hours while regulating the pH between 7 and 10, preferably between 7.5 and 8.5, ideally at 8. Then the temperature is lowered below 45°C and the filtrate is collected.

Optionally but preferably, step (4) comprises a step of treatment with at least one acid so that the mixture has a pH of 1.5 to 2.5. The enzyme extract is the filtrate. The filtrate may be brought back into contact with the solid residues (rinsing) at least once to extract the maximum amount of active substances trapped in the solid residues which are generally in the form of a paste. Acidification of the medium (mixture) makes it possible to denature the enzyme. Any means for filtration are suitable to effect the separation of the filtrate from the solid residues.

Alternatively, after adding an acid to achieve a pH of 1.5 to 2.5, it is possible to apply heating for at least 3 hours at at least 70°C, and finally adding a base so as to obtain a pH of 6 to 8 to obtain the extract after filtration. The filtrate being the enzymatic extract is separated from the remaining paste.

To the remaining paste water is added in order to obtain an aqueous suspension of weight equivalent to that used in step (4) and pH is adjusted to pH of 2. It is preferably to adjust pH using a 10% hydrochloric acid solution. The mixture is stirred at elevated temperature which is preferably a temperature of 60°C to 80°C. The suspension obtained is then neutralized to pH 7 by adding a base such as 10% sodium hydroxide solution. The insoluble fraction is separated from the filtrate and the filtrate is collected.

Said filtrate is the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate to be preferably used according to the invention which may be stored for example with sodium benzoate or any other preservative and where its pH may be adjusted between 4 and 5 by adding the necessary quantity of an organic acid. Optionally, the filtrate is advantageously taken up on a filter press equipped with plates comprising pores (porosity) of 0.5 to 0.8 pm, or even 0.6 to 0.7 pm, in diameter.

Step (5) is an extraction process under mild conditions without excess acid.

Further components of the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate according to the invention may be benzyl alcohol and/or dehydroacetic acid.

The aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate as described before or preferably described before can be reduced to a powder and can be used in a composition for oral up-take in the method for enhancing gloss of skin in a subject for cosmetic purposes as described before. Said powder may be used to prepare a food composition to be used in the method according to the invention.

The food composition may include all edible combinations of carbohydrates, lipids, proteins, inorganic elements, trace elements, vitamins, water or active metabolites of plants and animals.

The food composition may be for example in the form of meals, pills, tablets, capsules, powders, granules, syrup, solutions or suspensions.

Alternatively and preferably, the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate as described before or preferably described before is part of a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition or medical device, which is administered topically on skin, thereby enhancing gloss of skin.

The topically usable preparation here is usually a cosmetic formulation or a medical device. In this case, the preparations comprise a cosmetically suitable vehicle or a vehicle which is suitable for a medical device and, depending on the desired property profile, optionally further suitable ingredients.

“Can be applied topically” means that the preparation is applied externally and locally, i.e. that the preparation must be suitable, for example, for being able to be applied to the skin, e.g. face and body. The topical preparations are preferably employed as cosmetic composition. Suitable vehicles and assistants or fillers are described in detail in the following part.

The preparations may include or comprise, essentially consist of or consist of the necessary or optional constituents mentioned above and/or below. All compounds or components which can be used in the preparations are either known and commercially available or can be synthesised by known processes.

The topically usable composition to be used according to the invention comprises the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate in a concentration between 0.1% to 5%, preferably in a concentration between 0.5% to 4%, particularly preferably in a concentration between 1% to 3% based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferred preparations may likewise comprise at least one further cosmetic active compound to further support advantages of the cosmetic composition or medical device. Further cosmetic active compounds are for example selected from humectants, antioxidants, anti-ageing actives, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-dandruff actives, anti-acne actives, anti-cellulite active compounds, UV filter, substances protecting against visible light and infrared radiation, deodorants or vitamins.

Suitable anti-ageing active compounds and/or humectants, in particular for skin-care preparations, are preferably so-called compatible solutes. The compatible solutes are preferably substances selected from the group consisting of pyrimidinecarboxylic acids (such as ectoin and hydroxyectoin), proline, betaine, glutamine, cyclic diphosphoglycerate, N. -acetylornithine, trimethylamine N-oxide di-myo-inositol phosphate (DIP), cyclic 2, 3-diphosphoglycerate (cDPG), 1 ,1 -diglycerol phosphate (DGP), B-mannosyl glycerate (firoin), p-mannosyl glyceramide (firoin-A) dimannosyl diinositol phosphate (DMIP) or an optical isomer or derivative, for example an acid, salt or ester, of these compounds, and combinations thereof.

Such humectant(s) is/are preferably present in the topical preparation in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 8% by weight, based on the total amount of the preparation.

Additionally, anti-aging active compounds which can be used are products from Merck, such as, for example, 5,7-dihydroxy-2-methylchromone, marketed under the trade name RonaCare®Luremin®, or the commercial products RonaCare®ASCIII®, RonaCare®RenouMer, RonaCare® Nicotinamide, RonaCare®VTA, RonaCare®Poppy SE, RonaCare®Cyclopeptide 5 or RonaCare®Balmance.

Suitable antioxidants are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles, (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example a-carotene, p-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, y-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and sulfoximine compounds (for example buthionine sulfoximines, homocysta sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (for example pmol to pmol/kg), and also (metal) chelating agents, (for example a-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), a-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (for example vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, a-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, quercetin, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSOt), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide).

Suitable antioxidants are also compounds of the formulae A or B in which

R¹ can be selected from the group -C(O)CH3, -CO2R³, -C(O)NH₂ and

-C(O)N(R⁴)₂,

X denotes O or NH,'

R² denotes linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 30 C atoms,

R³ denotes linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 20 C atoms, R⁴ in each case, independently of one another, denotes H or linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms,

R⁵ denotes H, linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms or linear or branched alkoxy having 1 to 8 C atoms and

R⁶ denotes linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms, preferably derivatives of 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene)malonic acid and/or 2-(4- hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl)malonic acid, particularly preferably bis(2-ethylhexyl) 2-(4- hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene)malonate (for example Oxynex® ST Liquid) and/or bis(2-ethylhexyl) 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl)malonate (for example RonaCare® AP). Furthermore, the combination with bis(isopropyl) 2-(4-hydroxy-3- methoxybenzylidene)-malonate is preferred.

Mixtures of antioxidants are likewise suitable for use in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. Known and commercial mixtures are, for example, mixtures comprising, as active ingredients, lecithin, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid, natural tocopherols, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate, L-(+)-ascorbic acid and citric acid (for example Oxynex® K Liquid), tocopherol extracts from natural sources, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate, L-(+)-ascorbic acid and citric acid (for example Oxynex® L-CV Liquid), DL- a-tocopherol, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid and lecithin (for example Oxynex® LM-CV) or butylhydroxytoluene (BHT), L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid (for example Oxynex® 2004). Antioxidants of this type are usually employed in such preparations with the compounds according to the invention in per cent by weight ratios in the range from 1000:1 to 1 :1000, preferably in per cent by weight ratios of 100:1 to 1:100.

Organic UV filters, so-called hydrophilic or lipophilic sun-protection filters, which are effective in the UVA region and/or UVB region and(/or IR and/or VIS region (absorbers). These substances can be selected, in particular, from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, p,p-diphenylacrylate derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and polymeric filters and silicone filters, which are described in the application WO-93/04665. Further examples of organic filters are indicated in the patent application EP-A 0487 404. The said UV filters are usually named below in accordance with INCI nomenclature.

Particularly suitable for a combination are Ethylhexyl salicylate, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate, Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole trisiloxane, Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, Polysilicone-15, 1 ,1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl- butadiene, 2,4-bis[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl) imino]-6-(2-ethyl- hexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof. These organic UV filters are generally incorporated into preparations in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 1% by weight to 10% by weight.

The compounds listed should only be regarded as examples. It is of course also possible to use other UV filters.

The preparations may comprise further inorganic UV filters, so-called particulate UV filters.

These combinations with particulate UV filters are possible both as powder and also as dispersion or paste of the following types.

Preference is given here both to those from the group of the titanium dioxides, such as, for example, coated titanium dioxide (for example Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex®T-AQUA, Eusolex®T-AVO, Eusolex®T-PRO, Eusolex®T-EASY), zinc oxides (for example RonaCare® Zinc Oxide, Eusolex®Z-BASE, Eusolex®Z-TEC), iron oxides or also cerium oxides and/or zirconium oxides.

It may furthermore be preferred for the preparations to comprise inorganic UV filters which have been aftertreated by conventional methods, as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 5364. One or more of the following aftertreatment components can be selected here: amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, phospholipids, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, polyethylenes, silicones, proteins (particularly collagen or elastin), alkanolamines, silicon dioxide, aluminium oxide, further metal oxides, phosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, or glycerine.

These inorganic UV filters are generally incorporated into the preparations in an amount of 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 2% by weight to 10% by weight.

By combination of one or more of the said compounds having a UV filter action, the protective action against harmful effects of the UV radiation inducing photo-ageing can be optimised. All said UV filters can also be employed in encapsulated form. In particular, it is advantageous to employ organic UV filters in encapsulated form.

The capsules in preparations to be employed in accordance with the invention are preferably present in amounts which ensure that the encapsulated UV filters are present in the preparation in the per cent by weight ratios indicated above.

Dihydroxyacetone may be added to the preparation to improve protection against infrared radiation.

Particularly suitable further ingredients are fillers containing mica, boron nitride, synthetic sapphire or bismuth oxychloride.

Very suitable fillers contain synthetic sapphire, e.g. marketed as RonaFlair® White Sapphire. Very suitable fillers contain bismuth oxychloride, e.g. marketed as RonaFlair® B- 50, RonaFlair® Fines or RonaFlair® LF-2000. Very suitable fillers contain boron nitride, e.g. marketed as RonaFlair® Boroneige, SF-3 and RonaFlair® Boroneige, SF-15. A preferred filler is RonaFlair® Satin. The filler should preferably be used in 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably by 3% by weight based on the total of the composition.

The preparations described may furthermore also comprise coloured pigments, where the layer structure of the pigments is not limited. Suitable brands are Colorona, Timiron, Ronastar, Xirona.

The coloured pigment should preferably be on use of 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably of 1 % by weight to 3% by weight. The selection of a corresponding pigment is familiar to the person skilled in the art. Very suitable coloured pigments are pearlescent pigments. Preferred pearlescent pigments are marketed as Colorona® Red Gold, Ronastar® Silver, Ronastar® Noble Sparks, Ronastar® Copper Sparks, Ronastar® Golden Sparks, Ronastar® Golden Lights, Timiron® Liquid Silver, Timiron® Starluster MP-115, Xirona® Volcanic Fire.

The preparations described may furthermore also comprise propigmentation substances such as glycyrrhetinic acid, melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH), inositol, peptide analogues, thymidine dinucleotides, L-tyrosine and esters thereof or bicyclic monoterpenediols (described in Brown et al., Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 63 (2001) 148-161), compounds as described in EP3522993 A1 , compounds as described in EP3522863 A1 , fatty acids, N-functionalized fatty acid amides, hexadecanoic acid 5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-oxo-4H-chromen-7-yl ester, which is marketed by Merck under the trade name RonaCare® Bronzyl™, MelanoBronze marketed from Mibelle Biochemistry or SYN-GLOW® marketed from DSM.

The preparations to be employed may comprise vitamins as further ingredients. Preference is given to vitamins and vitamin derivatives selected from vitamin A, vitamin A propionate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A acetate, retinol, vitamin B, thiamine chloride hydrochloride (vitamin Bi), riboflavin (vitamin B2), nicotinamide, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin D, ergocalciferol (vitamin D2), vitamin E, DL-a-tocopherol, tocopherol E acetate, tocopherol hydrogensuccinate, vitamin Ki , esculin (vitamin P active compound), thiamine (vitamin Bi), nicotinic acid (niacin), pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, (vitamin Be), pantothenic acid, biotin, folic acid and cobalamine (vitamin B12), particularly preferably vitamin A palmitate, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, DL-a-tocopherol, tocopherol E acetate, nicotinic acid, pantothenic acid and biotin. In the case of cosmetic application, vitamins are usually added with the flavonoid-containing premixes or preparations in ranges from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight. Nutrition-physiological applications are oriented towards the respective recommended vitamin requirement.

The retinoids described are at the same time also effective anti-cellulite active compounds. A likewise known anti-cellulite active compound is caffeine.

The preparations may preferably comprise assistants, such as, for example, cosmetic oils (for example Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, 012-15 alkyl Benzoate, isopropyl myristate, arylalkyl benzoates, such as, for example, phenethyl benzoate (X-Tend 226) or oil components of the Cosmacol brand, such as Dimyristyl Tartrate, Tri C14-C15 Alkyl Citrate, C12-C13 Alkyl Lactate, Tridecyl Salicylate, C12-C13 Alkyl Octanoate, C12-C13 Alkyl Malate, C12-C13 Alkyl Citrate, C12-C13 Alkyl Tartrate), or polar-protic assistants (for example propylene glycol, glycerol, isopropanol, ethanol) or so-called solubilisers (for example Butylphthalimide, Isopropylphthalimide, Dimethylisosorbide). Very particularly preferred cosmetic oils are C12-C13 Alkyl Lactate, commercially available as Cosmacol ELI and phenethyl benzoate, commercially available as X-Tend 226.

The preparations as described before may be synthesized in that at least the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate to be used according to the invention is mixed with a vehicle which is suitable for such preparations and optionally with assistants and or fillers.

The said constituents of the preparation can be incorporated in the usual manner, with the aid of techniques which are well known to the person skilled in the art. Preparations suitable for external use, for example can be applied or sprayed onto the skin as cream or milk (O/W, W/O, O/W/O, W/O/W) for face and body, as lotion or emulsion for face and body, in the form of oily-alcoholic, oily-aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gels or solutions. They can be in the form of solid sticks or formulated as aerosol. They can be in the form of shampoo, shower gel, cleansing milk or serum.

The following, for example, may be mentioned as application form of the preparations to be employed: solutions, suspensions, emulsions, PIT emulsions, pastes, ointments, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing preparations, oils, aerosols plasters, compresses, bandages and sprays.

Preferred assistants originate from the group of preservatives, stabilisers, solubilisers, colorants, odour improvers, thickeners, plasticisers, humectants, interface-active agents, emulsifiers, preservatives, antifoaming agents, perfumes, waxes, lanolin, propellants and other ingredients usually used in cosmetics.

Ointments, pastes, creams and gels may comprise the customary vehicles which are suitable for topical application, for example animal and vegetable fats, waxes, paraffins, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silica, talc and zinc oxide, or mixtures of these substances.

Powders and sprays may comprise the customary vehicles, for example lactose, talc, silica, aluminium hydroxide, calcium silicate and polyamide powder, or mixtures of these substances. Sprays may additionally comprise the customary readily volatile, liquefied propellants, for example chlorofluorocarbons, propane/butane or dimethyl ether. Compressed air can also advantageously be used.

Solutions and emulsions e.g. face and body emulsions may comprise the customary vehicles, such as solvents, solubilisers and emulsifiers, for example water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butyl glycol, oils, in particular cottonseed oil, peanut oil, wheatgerm oil, olive oil, castor oil and sesame oil, XTend 226, glycerol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycols and fatty acid esters of sorbitan, or mixtures of these substances.

Suspensions may comprise the customary vehicles, such as liquid diluents, for example water, ethanol or propylene glycol, suspension media, for example ethoxylated isostearyl alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters, microcrystalline cellulose, aluminium metahydroxide, bentonite, agar-agar and tragacanth, or mixtures of these substances. Soaps may comprise the customary vehicles, such as alkali metal salts of fatty acids, salts of fatty acid monoesters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, lanolin, fatty alcohol, vegetable oils, plant extracts, glycerol, sugars, or mixtures of these substances.

Surfactant-containing cleansing products may comprise the customary vehicles, such as salts of fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulfosuccinic acid monoesters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, imidazolinium derivatives, methyl taurates, sarcosinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, alkylamidobetaines, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable and synthetic oils, lanolin derivatives, ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, or mixtures of these substances.

Face and body oils may comprise the customary vehicles, such as synthetic oils, such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, natural oils, such as vegetable oils and oily plant extracts, paraffin oils, lanolin oils, or mixtures of these substances.

Further typical cosmetic application forms are also lipsticks, lip-care sticks, powder makeup, emulsion make-up and wax make-up, and sunscreen, pre-sun and after-sun preparations.

The preferred preparation forms also include, in particular, emulsions for face and body.

Emulsions are advantageous and comprise, for example, the said fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as usually used for a preparation of this type. Emulsifiers that can be used are, for example, known W/O and O/W emulsifiers. It is advantageous to use further conventional co-emulsifiers in preferred O/W emulsions.

The lipid phase may advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, furthermore natural oils, such as, for example, castor oil; fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols having a low carbon number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids having a low carbon number or with fatty acids; silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, or from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acid and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.

The oil phase may furthermore advantageously be selected from the group branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides may, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Preferred oils and/or lipids for said topical preparations include: paraffin, isoparaffin, dicaprylyl ether, PPG-15, stearyl ether, beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, ethylhexyl stearate, caprylic/capric triglycerides, cetyl lactate, stearyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, squalene, natural triglycerides such as cherry kernel oil (Prunes Cerasus), Persea Gratissima oil, Carthamus Tinctorius seed oil, Macadamia Ternifolia seed oil, cocoa butter (Theobroma Cacao), Butyrospermum Parkii butter and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase of the preparations to be employed optionally advantageously comprises alcohols, diols or polyols having a low carbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore alcohols having a low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2- propanediol, glycerol, and, in particular, one or more thickeners, which may advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminium silicates, polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called Carbopols, for example Carbopol grades 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984, in each case individually or in combination.

In particular, mixtures of the above-mentioned solvents are used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water may be a further constituent.

In a preferred embodiment, the preparations to be employed comprise hydrophilic surfactants. The hydrophilic surfactants are preferably selected from the group of the alkylglucosides, acyl lactylates, betaines and coconut amphoacetates.

The dispersant or solubiliser used can be an oil, wax or other fatty bodies, a lower monoalcohol or a lower polyol or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred monoalcohols or polyols include ethanol, i-propanol, propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.

A preferred embodiment of the invention is an emulsion which is in the form of a protective cream or milk and comprises, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, lanolin, natural and synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water.

Further preferred embodiments are oily lotions based on natural or synthetic oils and waxes, lanolin, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, or oily-alcoholic lotions based on a lower alcohol, such as ethanol, or a glycerol, such as propylene glycol, and/or a polyol, such as glycerol, and oils, waxes and fatty acid esters, such as triglycerides of fatty acids.

The preparation may also be in the form of an alcoholic gel which comprises one or more lower alcohols or polyols, such as ethanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, and a thickener, such as siliceous earth. The oily-alcoholic gels also comprise natural or synthetic oil or wax.

The solid sticks consist of natural or synthetic waxes and oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, lanolin and other fatty substances.

If a preparation is formulated as an aerosol, use is generally made of the customary propellants, such as alkanes, fluoroalkanes and chlorofluoroalkanes, preferably alkanes. Preferred absorbing and/or texturizing agents for said preparations include modified maize starch, silica, talc, zinc stearate, magnesium sulfate, zinc oxide, calcium and aluminium borosilicate, starches and derivatives, polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

In a further aspect, the invention relates to a method for enhancing gloss of skin in a subject for cosmetic purposes, preferably a human, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition or medical device as described above or preferably described before, preferably in form of a topical preparation or as part of a kit of parts or as part of a container, to the skin thus enabling an increase in glow of the skin as described before. The application is carried out using standard techniques, for example by the application of fluid, shampoo, shower gel, cream, cleansing milk, paste, gel, lotion, leave-on mask, serum to the skin to be treated, or the dissolution of predertermined amount of the preparation comprising the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate as described before.

According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic product or medical device comprising a) a container delimiting a least one compartment closed by a respective closure element and b) a cosmetic preparation comprising the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate as described before, arranged within said compartment.

The container may have any appropriate form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a capsule, a can, ajar, a box or a bag.

The closure element may be in the form of a removable stopper, lid, ribbon, or tearing sheet. It may also be in the form of a dispensing element, in particular a pump, a valve or a cap with a spray nozzle. The closure element may be coupled to the container in any way known in the art, such as by a screw, bayonet, snap coupling, by welding, gluing or by magnetic attraction. The material of the container is not limited in any way but shall have no influence on the stability of the contained preparation able to be topically applied. Suitable materials are plastic materials, such as polypropylene or polyethylene, glass, metal or metal alloy.

It should be pointed out that variations of the embodiments described in the present invention are covered by the scope of this invention. Any feature disclosed in the present invention may, unless this is explicitly ruled out, be exchanged for alternative features which serve the same purpose or an equivalent or similar purpose. Thus, any feature disclosed in the present invention, unless stated otherwise, should be considered as an example of a generic series or as an equivalent or similar feature.

All features of the present invention may be combined with one another in any manner, unless particular features and/or steps are mutually exclusive. This is especially true of preferred features of the present invention. Equally, features of non-essential combinations may be used separately (and not in combination).

The technical teaching disclosed with the present invention may be abstracted and combined with other examples.

Examples:

Example 1:

The aqueous Pelvetia canaliculate extract is manufactured according to FR3013219 A1 as described before and is provided by Agrimer S.A.S. Said extract will be named Pelvetia extract in the following.

Example 2: In vivo gloss analysis

Study design: open intra-individual study; each subject is her own control

• 22 healthy subjects

• Subject having given her free informed, written consent

• Age: from 45 to 65 years old;

• Phototype: I to III;

• Type: Caucasian;

• Subject having wrinkles and fine lines on eyes contour (crow’s feet, underneath eyes);

• Subject having a dry to very dry skin on face;

• Subject having a loose skin on face.

Application Active/Placebo

Hemi face

2 times / day

28 days.

Cosmetic formulation: white emulsion Pelvetia extract according to example 1 was incorporated into the aqueous phase of a cosmetic formulation as described below at a concentration of 3%.

Cosmetic formulation:

Preparation process:

Bulk: Disperse phase B2 into phase B1. Heat phases A and B separately to 75°C. Add phase A to phase B while stirring. Homogenize. Add phase C at 40°C. Add phase D. Check pH value and adjust to approx. pH 5,0 if necessary.

Analysis and results

Analysis was performed via the ColorFace® acquisition system from Newtone Technologies for standardized imaging in the clinical study setting for evaluation of a clinical effect. Measurement zones front face and both profiles. The ColorFace® ensures reliable and reproducible repositioning of subjects over time, thanks to an ear support coupled with a control of the head tilt and by a real-time visualization by the operator. Photographs are taken using COLORFACE® in cross and parallel polarized light. Images analysis are performed by Newtone Technologies to follow the evolution of the Gloss parameters in particular Contrast Gloss. The contrast gloss is defined as the absolute difference between the mean intensity of bright pixels and the mean intensity of mat pixels on the gloss map.

Increase in contrast gloss is observed after the application of Pelvetia extract for 28 days in a cosmetic formulation compared to initial state. Contrast gloss is increased by +7% on Day 28 which is found to be statistically significant (p= 0.0485; t test). The effect is measured in 64% of the subjects.

Example 3: Ex vivo gloss analysis

Helvetia extract according to example 1 and commercially available Helvetia canaliculata extract AMBRE OCEANE™ SPE of Seppic, France are incorporated into the aqueous phase of a cosmetic formulation as described below at a concentration of 3%. A placebo, containing only the cosmetic formulation and 3% demineralized water is generated. The three conditions are applied to 1 sq. cm area of an ex vivo skin surrogate in a volume of 10 pL. The system is incubated for 1 hour and then 4 replicate measurements of gloss are made per area using a Glossymeter (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany).

Cosmetic formulation used:

Preparation process:

Bulk: Disperse phase B2 into phase B1. Heat phases A and B separately to 75°C. Add phase A to phase B while stirring. Homogenize. Add phase C at 40°C. Check pH value and adjust to approx. pH 5,0 if necessary.

Increase in gloss is observed after the application of the cosmetic formulation containing Helvetia extract of example 1. Gloss increased by +96.28% (vs non-treated) and is found to be statistically significant (p= 0.0002; one way ANOVA). The increase in gloss for the cosmetic formulation containing AMBRE OCEANE SPE and the placebo are observed to be 11.59% and 25.32% respectively, both of which were not significantly different from the non-treated measurement. Formulation examples:

Example A: Personal care product

Preparation process:

Combine phases A and B separately and heat to 80 °C. Add phase B to phase A while stirring. Homogenize. Add phase C at ~ 60 °C. Disperse RonaCare® Balmance in Propylene Glycol of phase D. Add phase D and E at 40 °C. Adjust pH value to 5.5-6.0.

Example B: Eye care serum

Preparation process:

Disperse phase A2 in A1. Heat phase A and B to 75-80 °C. Add slowly phase B to phase A under stirring. Homogenize. Disperse Emblica® in the water of phase C. Add phase C and phase D at 40 °C. Adjust pH value to 5.0-5.5 if necessary.

Example C: Body lotion

Preparation process:

Disperse phase A1 into phase A. Heat phases A and B separately to 75 °C. Add phase B to phase A while stirring. Homogenize. Add phase C and D at 35 °C. Check pH value and adjust to approx. pH 5,0 if necessary.

Example D: Anti-wrinkle fluid

Preparation process: Heat phase A to 75 °C. Combine phase B and heat to 75 °C. Add phase C to phase B while stirring. Add B/C to phase A under high stirring. Homogenize. Cool down while stirring. Add phase D at 40 °C. Add phase E below 35 °C. Check pH value and adjust to approx. pH 5.5 - 6.5 if necessary.

Example E: Leave-on mask

Preparation process:

Disperse phase A1 into phase A. Heat phases A and B separately to 75°C. Add slowly phase B into phase A while high mixing. Homogenize. Cool down while mixing. At 50°C add phases C. At 40°C add phase D. Adjust pH value to 5.5-6 with phase E. Example F: Facial Sun Care Preparation process:

Dissolve the Tromethamine in the water of phase B; add Eusolex 232 and stir until a clear solution is obtained. Then add the remaining ingredients of phase B. Heat up phase A1 and B to 65-70 °C. Disperse phase A2 into phase A1. Add phase A into phase B while stirring. Homogenize. Add phase C at 50-60°C while stirring. Homogenize. At 40 °C add phase D and E. Adjust pH value between 6.8-7.2.

Example G: Mineral Sun Care

Preparation process: Disperse phase B2 into phase B1. Heat phase A1 up to 80 °C. Disperse phase A into A1. Heat up phase B to 80 °C. Add phase A/A1 in B slowly. Homogenize. Cool down to room temperature while stirring. Add phase C below 35 °C.

Claims

Patent Claims Use of a cosmetic composition or a medical device comprising an aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate as an agent for increasing gloss of skin wherein said aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is obtainable or obtained by a method comprising the following steps:

(1) providing dry algae of Pelvetia canaliculate-,

(2) adding water to the dry matter of (1);

(6) collecting the filtrate. Use according to claim 1 wherein skin is human skin. Use according to claim 1 or 2 wherein skin is facial skin. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the average 2% dry matter of said Pelvetia canaliculate extract contains 65% to 75% sugars. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the cosmetic composition or medical device comprises the aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate in a concentration between 0.1% to 5% based on the total weight of the composition or medical device. A method for enhancing gloss of skin in a subject for cosmetic purposes, the method comprising administering a composition containing an aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate to a subject topically or orally wherein said aqueous extract of Pelvetia canaliculate is obtainable or obtained by a method comprising the following steps:

(1) providing dry algae of Pelvetia canaliculate-,

(2) adding water to the dry matter of (1);

(3) separating wet seaweed of (2) from a cytoplasmic extract and adding water to said separated paste; (4) treatment of wet seaweed of (3) with protease at a basic pH, separating the enzymatic extract as filtrate from remaining paste;

(6) collecting the filtrate, thereby enhancing gloss of skin. A method according to claim 6 wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition or a medical device. A method according to claim 6 or 7 comprising applying said composition to human skin. A method according to any one of claims 6 to 8 comprising applying said composition to facial skin. A method according to an any one of claims 6 to 9 wherein the average 2% dry matter of said Pelvetia canaliculate extract contains 65% to 75% sugars .