EP4216905A1 - Composition cosmétique à texture évolutive sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique à texture évolutive sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile

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Publication number
EP4216905A1
EP4216905A1 EP21791433.2A EP21791433A EP4216905A1 EP 4216905 A1 EP4216905 A1 EP 4216905A1 EP 21791433 A EP21791433 A EP 21791433A EP 4216905 A1 EP4216905 A1 EP 4216905A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
fatty
starch
composition
natural
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21791433.2A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Katia Fontes
Charlotte GUISEPPI
Delphine LAMOTHE
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoires M&L SA
Original Assignee
Laboratoires M&L SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoires M&L SA filed Critical Laboratoires M&L SA
Publication of EP4216905A1 publication Critical patent/EP4216905A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition with evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion Cosmetic composition with evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic body care compositions in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion with an evolving texture and advantageous sensory properties, free of certain undesirable compounds often presented as essential in the formulation of products cosmetics.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • Cosmetic body care compositions are widely used on a daily basis.
  • the texture and sensory properties are important criteria for their commercial success. Indeed, the final consumer's choice is based both on technical performance criteria and on sensory criteria and immediate well-being provided by the cosmetic formulations applied to the skin.
  • the exclusion of controversial ingredients for the preparation of cosmetic formulations is also an element of the commercial success of these products because it responds to a growing concern of consumers: their health.
  • sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate, essentially used as a surfactant, which is a well-known irritant, and which is moreover frequently used to experimentally induce contact dermatitis
  • aromatic glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol, a preservative considered harmful in particular for pregnant women and young children, as it is considered hematotoxic and hepatotoxic
  • silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone, which is partly made up of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclotetrasiloxane, which have shown endocrine disrupting effects. Cyclotetrasiloxane in particular is classified as toxic to reproduction. Highly volatile, the silicone compounds provide a non-greasy feel and promote the spreading of the product on the skin.
  • sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate, a powerful surfactant
  • sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate
  • surfactants are essential.
  • An emulsion is a macroscopically homogeneous but microscopically heterogeneous mixture of an oily (or lipophilic) phase and an aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase that are immiscible liquids, such as water and an oil.
  • An oily (or lipophilic) phase and an aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase that are immiscible liquids, such as water and an oil.
  • One phase is dispersed in the second phase as droplets.
  • the water is dispersed in the oil.
  • the choice of the surfactant system becomes delicate since it directly influences the stability of the emulsion. Substitution of one surfactant by another can cause instability of the emulsion appearing during its conservation.
  • This stability problem can induce a drop in viscosity, and/or a very coarse microscopic appearance with the presence of oil in the aqueous phase, or conversely a presence of water in the oily phase, which is obviously not desired. .
  • the sulfated detergent(s) are replaced by other surfactants, in addition to the stability aspect, the sensoriality and/or the texture may be modified. The same is true for the substitution of silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone and aromatic glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol, which modifies the sensoriality and/or the texture of the composition.
  • one of the major challenges is to introduce high-performance biological active ingredients into emulsions while providing (or keeping ) a good level of sensoriality and enjoyment cosmetics in order to encourage the use of these products and thus intensify their observed effects on the skin through regular and repeated use.
  • these active ingredients can be used at high rates, but can however pose sensory problems such as the provision of a sticky and/or rough effect on the skin during the treatment phase. application and/or after penetration of the product into the skin.
  • another challenge for the formulator of skin care products is to offer pleasant and adequate textures in terms of sensoriality for the consumer target.
  • compositions for caring for the skin in the form of an emulsion enriched with active molecules; stable; bringing a double evolutionary property in texture and sensoriality; and free from the so-called "soaping" phenomenon.
  • cosmetic compositions free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol, while making it possible to maintain/obtain the texture and sensoriality targets sought by consumers without posing problems of discomfort, sensory pleasure or stability.
  • the aim of the invention is to solve the technical problem consisting in providing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a stable emulsion, with an evolving structure, and free from the so-called “soaping” phenomenon.
  • the present invention also aims to provide such a composition without altering the sensory aspect perceived by the user.
  • the present invention also aims to provide such a composition without resorting to silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol, controversial ingredients which are become undesirable in the formulation of cosmetic compositions.
  • silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ethers such as phenoxyethanol, controversial ingredients which are become undesirable in the formulation of cosmetic compositions.
  • Another object of the present invention is to identify one or more substances making it possible to formulate a composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, without negatively affecting the sensoriality of the final composition.
  • an anionic fatty alkyl phosphate emulsifier preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate
  • a feel powder preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin
  • the applicant has in fact found, surprisingly, that it is possible to obtain a composition fulfilling all of the desired criteria (containing active molecules, stable, providing a dual property that evolves in texture and sensoriality, which does not soap, and free from silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol), using an emulsion containing the combination of components (i) to (v) mentioned above -above.
  • silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol
  • the first subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • At least one anionic fatty alkyl phosphate emulsifier preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate
  • esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol; said composition being free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol.
  • fatty acid is understood to mean an aliphatic chain carboxylic acid with a carbon chain of 4 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • family of fatty acids mention may be made, for example, of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolelaic acid, ⁇ -linolenic acid , y-linolenic acid, dihomo-y-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, and clupanodonic acid.
  • fatty alcohol means an alcohol comprising a linear or branched carbon chain, saturated or unsaturated corresponding to a fatty acid carbon chain known to those skilled in the art. It can be a carbon chain obtained from a fatty acid such as caprylic acid, capric acid, caproic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, I inolelaidic acid, a-linolenic acid, y-linolenic acid, dihomo-y-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid , eicosapentaenoic acid, or clupanodonic acid.
  • a fatty acid such as caprylic acid, cap
  • fatty alkyl means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain corresponding to a fatty acid carbon chain known to those skilled in the art, as defined above.
  • Cx-Cy acid and “Cx-Cy alcohol” means an acid and an alcohol, respectively, comprising a linear or branched aliphatic carbon chain which may comprise x to y carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Cx-Cy alkyl means a linear or branched aliphatic carbon chain which may comprise from x to y carbon atoms.
  • compositions of the invention are intended for topical application to the skin, they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and the keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes), preferably skin.
  • the nonionic emulsifying system can have an HLB of 10.
  • the nonionic emulsifying system can advantageously comprise a C12 to C22 fatty alkyl glucoside, preferably from C16 to C18, and a C12 to C22 fatty alcohol, from preferably from C16 to C18.
  • the C12 to C22 fatty alkyl glucoside, and the C12 to C22 fatty alcohol may be present in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol ratio of 10/90 to 30/70, for example from 15/85 to 25/65, preferably 20/80.
  • the glucoside can be a D-glucopyranoside.
  • the nonionic emulsifying system can comprise a mixture of cetearyl D-glucopyranoside and cetearyl alcohol, preferably in the aforementioned ratios. It may be, for example, a 20/80 cetearyl glucoside/cetearyl alcohol mixture. It is possible to use, for example, Emulgade PL 68/50TM marketed by the company BASF.
  • an anionic emulsifier based on fatty alkyl phosphate preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate, as described previously and below (for example a salt potassium fatty alkyl phosphate C14 to C18) it allows the development of W / O emulsions according to the present invention.
  • the nonionic emulsifying system can be present at a rate of 1 to 5% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 2.2 to 2.8% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.
  • the anionic emulsifier may comprise an alkali metal salt of C12 to C22 fatty alkyl phosphate, preferably C13 to C20, preferably C14 to C18. It may for example be an alkali metal salt of cetyl phosphate, preferably a potassium salt of cetyl phosphate.
  • an alkali metal salt of cetyl phosphate preferably a potassium salt of cetyl phosphate.
  • the anionic emulsifier can be present at a rate of 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the gelling agent can comprise at least one carbomer compound.
  • carbomer is understood to mean an optionally crosslinked homopolymer, resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore an optionally crosslinked poly(acrylic acid).
  • carbomers which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the names TegoOCarbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbobopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol® ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or else Carbopol® Iltrez 10 from Lubrizol.
  • carrier also encompasses polymers of high molecular weight acrylic acid crosslinked with allylic sucrose or allylic ethers of pentaerythritol (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 th Edition, plll).
  • it may be Carbopol®910, Carbopol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940, Carbopol®941, Carbopol®71 G, Carbopol®980, Carbopol®971 P or Carbopol®974P from Lubrizol. Mention may also be made of Carbopol® Clear Polymer from Lubrizol.
  • Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.
  • the carbomer will advantageously be chosen from homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl propylene ether.
  • the carbomer marketed under the name Carbopol®940 by the company Lubrizol may be used.
  • the carbomer gelling agent may be present at a rate of 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.20 to 0.40% by weight, preferably 0.28 to 0.35% by weight, relative to the weight composition total. touch powder
  • touch powder means a powder of natural origin obtained from starch, providing slipperiness, matt softness and sensoriality. It is typically used in cosmetics for a powdery, slippery and soft finish without a greasy effect. It leaves a silky film on the skin.
  • the touch powder can be chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, peas, natural or modified, preferably natural.
  • the touch powder can advantageously be tapioca starch, natural or modified, preferably natural.
  • the feel powder may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase of the W/O composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise at least one esterified oil, preferably of plant origin, based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of saturated C12 fatty alcohol. -18.
  • It may be for example an esterified oil derived from coconut oil, comprising a mixture of a caprylic acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol and a capric ester of fatty alcohol saturated with C12-18.
  • the caprylate/caprate coconut oil marketed under the name Cetiol C5TM by the company BASF may be used.
  • the esterified oil preferably of plant origin, based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of a saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol can be present in a proportion of 4 to 14% by weight, preferably 6 to 12% by weight, preferably 8 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oil we mean a substance composed of identical or different molecules having hydrophobic properties and liquid at room temperature.
  • a nonionic emulsifying system of HLB > 9 based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol preferably in a mass ratio fatty alkyl/fatty alcohol glucoside ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22/78, most preferably around 20/80, of an anionic emulsifier based on fatty alkyl phosphate, a gelling agent of the carbomer type, a feel powder, and an esterified oil, preferably of vegetable origin, based on a C8 fatty acid ester -C10 of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, as defined above, made it possible to obtain a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion fulfilling all the desired criteria (containing active molecules, stable, providing double property
  • the term “evolving texture” is understood to mean a texture which develops over time.
  • the texture of the final composition varies between the moment when the composition is prepared, and the moment when it reaches its peak of maturation (final texture).
  • the texture of a cosmetic formulation can be characterized by its resistance to flow. It can be determined empirically, by visual observation of the flow of the cosmetic formulation under the effect of gravity and/or by measuring a maximum compression force implemented using a texturometer. equipped with a measurement probe and connected to data processing software.
  • a composition will be said to be texture-changing if the texture (consistency) changes by > 5% by one of the aforementioned methods 30 days after its preparation.
  • the combination of components (i) to (v) described above makes it possible to obtain a texture which evolves to a consistency similar to that of a flan.
  • the term “stable” is understood to mean an emulsion which remains homogeneous on storage at room temperature (20 ⁇ 5° C.) after a minimum period of one month, independently of the evolution of its texture.
  • the homogeneity of the composition can be evaluated by visual observation and/or by observation under a microscope of the composition spread on a slide.
  • the emulsion will be considered stable if, when observed under a microscope, the size of the water droplets in the oily phase remains substantially homogeneous at room temperature for a minimum of one month. Conversely, a W/O emulsion will be considered as not fulfilling the stability criterion if, at the end of a storage period of at least one month at room temperature, no coalescence of the drops of water is observed. water leading to a very coarse microscopic appearance with the presence of water in the oily phase.
  • the present invention relates to the use of the combination
  • At least one fatty alkyl phosphate anionic emulsifier preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate
  • At least one gelling agent of the carbomer type such as homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene;
  • At least one feel powder preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin, such as corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, natural or modified, preferably natural, most preferably tapioca starch; and
  • composition is a cosmetic composition, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium in the present invention means a non-toxic medium, compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • compositions according to the present invention naturally contain an aqueous phase and an oily phase.
  • a cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase included in the compositions according to the invention which is in the form of a W/O emulsion contains water, and can conventionally contain one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvents can more particularly be chosen from polyhydric alcohols such as, for example, glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, or water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.
  • aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention which is in the form of a W/O emulsion
  • aqueous phase comprises water and any substance or preparation intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genitalia) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning, perfume, modify their appearance, protect them, keep them in good condition and/or correct body odours.
  • Oil phase The oily phase consists of oils and of all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents which may be present in the composition of the invention.
  • the oily phase does not contain silicone oil, in order to meet the specifications for the exclusion of silicone compounds which are a source of controversy in cosmetics.
  • component (v) is an esterified oil, it will form part of the oily phase.
  • oil phase constituents examples include vegetable or non-vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, butters and waxes.
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean a non-silicone oil, that is to say any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • plant or “of plant origin”, is meant a substance extracted or derived from one or more parts of one or more plants. This therefore excludes in particular compounds derived from an animal.
  • hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene and squalane
  • hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean oils, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as coconut oil caprylate/caprate marketed under the name Cetiol C5TM such as those sold by BASF or those of the miglyol family, for example those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin's oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols;
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil.
  • Component (v) may preferably be an esterified oil of vegetable origin, based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic acid ester/ capric saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol.
  • component (v) may be caprylate/caprate coconut oil marketed under the name Cetiol C5TM by the company BASF.
  • esterified oils preferably of vegetable origin (component (v)) based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a fatty acid ester caprylic/capric C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol are particularly preferred. It may be for example an esterified oil derived from coconut oil, comprising a mixture of a caprylic acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol and a capric ester of fatty alcohol saturated with C12-18.
  • the caprylate/caprate coconut oil marketed under the name Cetiol C5TM by the company BASF may be used.
  • isononyl isononanoate is also part of the family of synthetic esters and ethers defined above. However, as mentioned previously, it is advantageously replaced by esterified oil (v) preferably of vegetable origin (natural origin), which makes it possible to obtain the target texture and sensoriality.
  • esterified oil (v) preferably of vegetable origin (natural origin), which makes it possible to obtain the target texture and sensoriality.
  • fatty substances of natural origin optionally present in the composition which is the subject of the present invention
  • saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols of plant origin saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids of plant origin
  • esters of fatty alcohols and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids of vegetable origin such as for example butyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, decyl oleate, diisopropyl, diethylhexyl sebacate, ethyl linoleate, trilaurin
  • isocetyl stearate isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, myristyl myristate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate , ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl hydroxyste
  • compositions according to the present invention may typically comprise one or more topically acceptable adjuvants or excipients known to those skilled in the art (with the exception of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol), and optionally one or more active ingredients.
  • topically acceptable adjuvants or excipients known to those skilled in the art (with the exception of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol), and optionally one or more active ingredients.
  • topically acceptable adjuvants or excipients mention may be made, for example, of co-emulsifying surfactants, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, thickening and/or gelling surfactants, sequestering agents, hydrotropes, plasticizers, mineral thickeners, organic thickeners, associative or not, perfumes, superfatting agents, alkanizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, antioxidants, fatty substances of natural origin, preservatives, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents, mineral fillers, dyes or any other topically acceptable adjuvant or excipient (with the exception of silicone compounds such as cyclomethicone, sulphated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulphate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol, which can be cited in the INCI dictionary (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) published by the PCPC
  • the cosmetic active agents mention may be made, for example, of the active principles having a moisturizing action, a tightening action, a soothing or relaxing action, an anti-inflammatory action, a slimming action, a lipolytic action, a draining action, a detoxifying action, a action an energizing, relaxing action, a stimulating action, an emollient action, a neuromodulating action, a protective action, a purifying, sebum-regulating, anti-hair loss action, an anti-aging action, a firming, restructuring, anti-radical or antioxidant action, or a mixture of at least two of these active ingredients.
  • These active agents can be those commonly used in cosmetic and/or dermatological products.
  • Such active principles are for example N-acylated proteins, N-acylated peptides such as for example MATRIXILTM, N-acylated amino acids present in their acid and/or salified forms such as for example N-(w- undecylenoyl) phenylalanine marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name SEPIWHITETMMSH, octanoylglycine marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name LIPACIDE TM C8G, undecylenoylglycine marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name LIPACIDE TM UG, hydrolysates N-acylated protein partials, amino acids, peptides, total protein hydrolysates, fat-soluble vitamins, fat-soluble vitamin derivatives such as for example Retinol, vitamin E and its derivatives, water-soluble and/or water-dispersible vitamins such as for example Vitamin C and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and its derivatives, ascorbyl glucoside,
  • anti-aging agents include, for example, oat extract, extracts obtained by biotechnology, for example hyaluronic acid, seaweed extracts, bioferments, bio-saccharide gum-1, saccharide gum-2, saccharide gum-3, saccharide gum-4, sugars, for example glucose, sucrose, fructose, honeys, flower nectars, fruit juices, polysaccharides , for example saccharide gum-1, saccharide gum-2, saccharide gum-3, saccharide gum-4, peptides, for example peptides resulting from an association of amino acids, or resulting from the cutting of proteins by biotechnology, for example dipeptides, tetrapeptides and/or oligopeptides.
  • biotechnology for example hyaluronic acid, seaweed extracts, bioferments
  • bio-saccharide gum-1, saccharide gum-2, saccharide gum-3, saccharide gum-4 sugars, for example glucose, sucrose, fructose, honeys, flower nectar
  • moisturizing agents include for example glycerin, hyaluronic acid, polysaccharides, products from beekeeping, for example honey.
  • soothing agents include, for example, bisabolol or allantoin.
  • agents acting on the microcirculation include, for example, extracts of corallina officinalis.
  • firming agents include for example a rye extract (rich in arabinoxylans), caffeine, tensor agents for example hibiscus oligopeptides, almond proteins. This or these agent(s) can be used in the composition of the present invention, for example at the concentrations usually used and known to those skilled in the art in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • the cosmetic active agents obtained from plants, such as a plant extract, an essential oil and/or any extract capable of being obtained from a plant material. It may for example be an extract obtained from all or part of a plant, for example flowers, stems, buds, fruits, roots, flowering tops, twigs, bark , radioles.
  • It may be, for example, an everlasting flower extract (Helichrysum Italicum), angelica, almond, almond milk, cade, rosemary, sandalwood, chestnut, coriander, camelina, evening primrose, borage, apples, rice, meadowsweet, lemon, myrtle, water clover, sea lily, wintergreen, kniphofia, narcissus, white lupine, daisy, iris, pine, raspberry, blackcurrant, beech or any mixture thereof.
  • flower extract Helichrysum Italicum
  • angelica angelica
  • almond almond milk
  • cade rosemary
  • sandalwood chestnut
  • coriander camelina
  • evening primrose borage
  • apples rice, meadowsweet, lemon, myrtle, water clover, sea lily, wintergreen
  • kniphofia narcissus
  • white lupine daisy
  • iris iris
  • pine raspberry
  • blackcurrant beech or any mixture thereof.
  • cosmetic active agents mention may also be made, for example, of natural cosmetic active agents such as honey, for example acacia honey, thyme honey, orange blossom honey.
  • the cosmetic compositions with an evolving texture in the form of a W/O emulsion according to the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a W/O emulsion, in particular in the cosmetics field.
  • the method may include a step of mixing surfactants in water (eg, components (i) and (ii)). It may also be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a turbine of the rotor-stator type.
  • the process may comprise (a) preparation of a fatty phase, (b) preparation of an aqueous phase, (c) incorporation of the aqueous phase obtained in step (a) into the fatty phase obtained in step (b) with stirring to create an emulsion.
  • Step (a) of preparing the fatty phase can be carried out by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, possibly with stirring while hot (for example between 40 and 85° C., for example between 50 and 70 °C).
  • the agitation can be carried out by any suitable means, for example by a mixer with blades, or by any other system making it possible to meet the requirements of the mixture.
  • Step (b) of preparing the aqueous phase can be carried out by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, and can be done in particular with stirring, optionally hot (for example between 45 and 65° C., for example between 50 and 60°C).
  • the agitation can be carried out by a paddle mixer or by any other system making it possible to meet the requirements of the mixture (deflocculator, propeller, etc.).
  • the tank in which the aqueous phase is prepared can contain a turbine and/or a scraper.
  • Step (b) can be carried out in parallel with step (a) or prior to the latter.
  • Step (c) of incorporating the aqueous phase into the fatty phase with vigorous stirring to manufacture an emulsion can be carried out by techniques well known to those skilled in the art.
  • Step (c) can be carried out by any suitable means for obtaining an emulsion, for example by means of an emulsifier, or a turbine of the rotor-stator type.
  • compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, the lips and/or the hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and/or the care of the skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can for example be used as a care product and for the face, the hands and/or the body with a consistency similar to that of flan, such as more or less unctuous creams.
  • the invention also relates to a method (or process) for formulating a composition with a changing texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, sulfated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and of aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol, said method comprising the addition to the emulsion (i) of at least one nonionic emulsifying system of HLB > 9, preferably of HLB > 10, based on glucoside d fatty alkyl and fatty alcohol, preferably in a fatty alkyl glucoside/fatty alcohol ratio by weight ranging from 10/90 to 30/70, preferably from 15/85 to 25/75, preferably from 18/82 to 22 /78, most preferably around 20/80;
  • At least one fatty alkyl phosphate anionic emulsifier preferably an alkali metal salt of fatty alkyl phosphate
  • At least one gelling agent of the carbomer type such as homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene;
  • At least one feel powder preferably chosen from natural or modified starches, preferably of natural origin, such as corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, natural or modified, preferably natural, most preferably tapioca starch; and
  • (v) at least one esterified oil preferably of vegetable origin based on a C8-C10 fatty acid ester of C12-18 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably a caprylic/capric acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol, components (i) to (v) preferably being as previously defined.
  • this method makes it possible in particular to preserve the sensoriality of the W/O emulsion, an evolving sensoriality: rich on application but which is absorbed quickly.
  • Sensory means the appearance, smell, color and texture perceived and/or felt by the user when looking at, touching or applying the product on skin, lips, nails, and/or hair, preferably skin.
  • retaining the sensoriality is meant the fact of not significantly modifying the sensoriality of the composition for the user, or even of retaining an identical sensoriality.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic care process for caring for the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention.
  • a cosmetic care process for caring for the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition with an evolving texture in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention.
  • the application to the skin can therefore be carried out depending on the galenic form used.
  • the frequency of application can be any frequency desired by the user, for example daily, twice-daily, weekly and/or fortnightly application. This may be, for example, an application once a week, twice a week, three times a week or more, once a day, twice a day or more.
  • the present invention has many advantages, in particular to make skincare compositions accessible in the form of a W/O emulsion: enriched with active molecules; which remain homogeneous on storage at room temperature after a minimum period of one month; bringing a double evolutionary property in texture and sensoriality; and free from the so-called “soaping" phenomenon.
  • the present invention also has the advantage of providing compositions with an evolving texture for caring for the skin in the form of a W/O emulsion, which are free of silicone compound such as cyclomethicone, of sulfated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate, and aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol.
  • silicone compound such as cyclomethicone
  • sulfated detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate
  • aromatic glycol ether such as phenoxyethanol
  • silicone compound any silicone compound known to those skilled in the art and/or capable of being used in a cosmetic, dermatological and/or pharmaceutical composition. It can be any inorganic compound formed of a silicon-oxygen chain (-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-) on which groups are fixed, on the silicon atoms. It may also be any compound comprising the following 4 types of siloxane units: in which R can be an alkyl, for example a methyl, an aromatic radical, for example a phenyl group, an amine group, an aminoalkyl group, for example an aminodimethyl.
  • R can be an alkyl, for example a methyl, an aromatic radical, for example a phenyl group, an amine group, an aminoalkyl group, for example an aminodimethyl.
  • the cosmetic composition may be free of any silicone compound chosen from the group comprising dimethicones, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclosiloxane, trisiloxane, dimethicone copolymer, vinyl dimethicone copolymer, polyglycoethylene 12 dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
  • FIG. 1 represents a microscope photograph of (A) emulsion E 5 and (B) emulsion E4, respectively of Example 2, after spreading on a slide.
  • FIG. 2 represents a photograph under the microscope (A) of the emulsion E 5, and (B) of the emulsion E4, respectively of Example 2, after spreading on a slide and testing the addition of a drop of water under the microscope slide to see the direction of the emulsion. The pictures show:
  • Example 1 Example of cosmetic compositions with evolving texture in the form of a W/O emulsion according to the present invention
  • Table 1 composition and ingredients of emulsions
  • the emulsions thus prepared are then stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20°C for 7 days. At the end of this period of 7 days, the appearance of each emulsion prepared is observed and the viscosity of each emulsion is measured at 25° C. using a Brookfield RV6 viscometer at 12 rpm.
  • the emulsions are then replaced and stored in the same insulated climatic chamber, regulated at a temperature of 20°C for up to 1 month. After a period of one month, each emulsion left the enclosure climate to observe its appearance and measure its viscosity again at 25°C using a Brookfield RV6 viscometer at 12 rpm.
  • compositions are W/O emulsions (confirmed under the microscope), and have the desired evolving texture: the viscosity at 25°C between D7 and D30 increases by around 25,000 cP (25 Pa.s) on D7 to reach 55,000 cP (55 Pa.s) at D30 (measured at 25° C., 12 rpm (“12 rpm” in English) with a Brookfield RV6 viscometer).
  • a W/O emulsion (E4) prepared according to Example 1 is compared with the same emulsion (E5) in which the nonionic emulsifier of HLB > 10 based on fatty alkyl glucoside and fatty alcohol has been substituted. with another nonionic emulsifying system of HLB > 10, this time based on polyglyceryl-6 distearate.
  • E4 emulsions contain the non-ionic emulsifier (ia), while E5 emulsions contain the non-ionic emulsifier (ib).
  • the % ranges given for each ingredient denote the % ranges within which each ingredient can be used to prepare the emulsions according to the invention (E4), in comparison with the E5 emulsions not falling within the scope of the present invention.
  • the principle of the table below is that the E4 and E5 emulsions contain the same percentage of each type of ingredient, so that they can be directly compared.
  • an E4 emulsion according to the invention containing x1% by weight of nonionic emulsifier (ia), x2% by weight of anionic emulsifier (ii), x3% by weight of carbomer (iii), x4% by weight of starch of natural origin (iv), x5% by weight of caprylic/capric acid ester of saturated fatty alcohol C12-18 (v), x6% by weight of active ingredients, x7% by weight of perfume and x8% by weight of preservatives, will be compared with an E5 emulsion containing x1% by weight of nonionic emulsifier (ib), x2% by weight of anionic emulsifier (ii), x3% by weight of carbomer (iii), x4% by weight of starch of natural origin (iv), x5% by weight of caprylic/capric acid ester of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohol (v), x6% by weight of active ingredients, x7 % by weight of perfume
  • Table 2 composition and ingredients of emulsions
  • the emulsion obtained is O/W oriented (test of adding a drop of water under the microscope slide to see the direction of the emulsion - cf. FIG. 2A).
  • the E4 emulsion is a W/O emulsion, which eliminates the soaping phenomenon (FIG. 2B). E4 also makes it possible to eliminate sodium lauryl sulphate, cyclomethicone and phenoxyethanol, like emulsions E1 to E3 of Example 1.

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EP21791433.2A 2020-09-23 2021-09-21 Composition cosmétique à texture évolutive sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile Pending EP4216905A1 (fr)

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FR2009640A FR3114237B1 (fr) 2020-09-23 2020-09-23 Composition cosmétique à texture évolutive sous forme d’émulsion eau-dans-huile
PCT/FR2021/051610 WO2022064130A1 (fr) 2020-09-23 2021-09-21 Composition cosmétique à texture évolutive sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile

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FR2693466B1 (fr) 1992-07-09 1994-09-16 Oreal Composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion triple eau/huile de silicone/eau gélifiée.
FR2778858B1 (fr) 1998-05-20 2000-06-16 Oreal Emulsion e/h/e stable et son utilisation comme composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique
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