EP3958832A1

EP3958832A1 - A composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials

Info

Publication number: EP3958832A1
Application number: EP19926396.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Di SHEN; Linshan LI; Fan HU
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: HU, FAN; Li Linshan; SHEN, DI; LOreal SA
Priority date: 2019-04-22
Filing date: 2019-04-22
Publication date: 2022-03-02
Also published as: EP3958832A4; CN113727693A; WO2020215178A1

Abstract

A composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials comprises a) at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates; and b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl poly glucoside of formula (I) R-O-G _X' (I) wherein R is a C ₆-C ₄₀ alkyl group, G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, X' is average degree of polymerization of the alky poly glucoside from 1 to 10.

Description

A COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND/OR REMOVING MAKEUP FROM KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. More particularly, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
BACKGROUND ART
Cleansing the skin and removing makeups on the skin are very important for caring for the skin. In particular, it is very important to consumers of makeup products to have an efficient makeup remover. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, and the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.
Several types of makeup removing or cleansing products, for example, rinsable cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, solid makeup removers, or biphasic and wipe removers are known.
Rinsable anhydrous oils and gels have a makeup removing action by virtue of oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible to dissolve fatty residues and to disperse make-up pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated. However, they exhibit the disadvantage of being heavy and of not conferring a feeling of freshness on application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic viewpoint.
Biphasic remover is effective but inconvenient to use as shaking is required before each use and the two phases are consumed at different rates.
Remover water leaves fresh sensory but is ineffective. Remover lotion is also considered ineffective. Balm/Cream has greasy touch, not suitable for eye area and unhygienic. Wipe remover is convenient but inefficient against waterproof makeups and is unhygienic.
In the field of makeup removing compositions, "soft solid" compositions constitute a category of products that are appreciated by consumers for their efficacy on cleansing, makeup removability, rinse ability, and for their cosmetic qualities (soft, dry feeling, easy to use, etc. ) . They are known as solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading over the surface of the skin or, for example, by extrusion through a device with a perforated wall (grille) . Some known soft solid compositions useful for the cleansing of the skin and/or the removal of makeup comprise silica aerogel particles, waxes, hydrocarbon-based oils and non-ionic surfactants. However, it is difficult to spread the soft solid composition on the skin.
Nowadays it has become more and more important that cleansing compositions provide effective cleansing of the keratin materials as well as mildness for eyes and keratin materials, rendering the keratin materials fresh and clean.
Thus there is a need for formulating a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, which has a texture easy to use, good cleansing property, no irritation to eyes and the keratin materials and renders the keratin materials fresh and clean.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, which has a texture easy to use, good cleansing property, no irritation to eyes and the keratin materials and renders the keratin materials fresh and clean.
Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising:
a) at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates; and
b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl poly glucoside of formula (I)
R-O-G _x’ (I)
wherein
R is a C ₆-C ₄₀ alkyl group,
G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
x’ is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl poly glucoside from 1 to 10.
The composition as such is intended for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin.
Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.
The composition according to the present invention is able to render the skin fresh and clean, without any harsh feeling.
The composition according to the present invention also demonstrates a cream-oil-foam transformation and delivers a good rinsing ability during application.
It may be used as a daily facial cleanser. The composition of the present invention is a rinse off product. Thus, such a composition is applied on the skin (i.e. face and/or body) , and then rinsed with flush water.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the present application, the expression “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
By “keratin materials” we intend to mean human keratin materials and more specifically skin and scalp, and more particularly the facial skin.
According to one aspect, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising:
a) at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates; and
b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl poly glucoside of formula (I)
R-O-G _x’ (I)
wherein
R is a C ₆-C ₄₀ alkyl group,
G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
x’ is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl poly glucoside from 1 to 10.
Dialkyl sulfosuccinates
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates.
Preferably, dialkyl sulfosuccinates present in the composition according to the present invention are selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Different or identical alkyl radicals can be present in one molecule of dialkyl sulfosuccinate, with identical being preferred.
As a counterion to the sulfonic acid group, alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations or ammonium ions, in particular sodium, can be used.
Preferably, the dialkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.
Particularly preferably present dialkyl sulfosuccinates are selected from the group consisting of Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dinonyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisononyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diheptyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dihexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dineopentyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisoamyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dipentyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diamyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dibutyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisobutyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicapryl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Didecyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diundecyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dilauryl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicocoyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Ditridecyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dipropylheptyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicyclohexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Diethylhexyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dinonyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Diisononyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Diheptyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dihexyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dineopentyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Diisoamyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dipentyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Diamyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dibutyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Diisobutyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dicapryl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Didecyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Diundecyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dilauryl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dicocoyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Ditridecyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dipropylheptyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dicyclohexyl Sulfosuccinate, Diethylhexyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dinonyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Diisononyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Diheptyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dihexyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dineopentyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Diisoamyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dipentyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Diamyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dibutyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Diisobutyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dicapryl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Didecyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Diundecyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dilauryl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dicocoyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Ditridecyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dipropylheptyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, Dicyclohexyl Potassium Sulfosuccinate, with Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate being very particularly preferred.
Preferably, the amount of the dialkyl sulfosuccinate in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkyl poly glucoside
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl poly glucoside of formula (I) :
R-O-G _x’ (I)
Wherein
R is a C ₆-C ₄₀alkyl group,
G is a moiety derived from a reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose unit, and
x’ represents the average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl poly glucoside.
Preferably, R is a C ₈-C ₃₄ alkyl group.
For a particular alkyl polysaccharide molecule, x’ can only assume integral values. In any physical sample of alkyl poly glucosides, there will generally be molecules having different values of x’. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x’, which can assume non-integral values. In the specification, the values of x’ are to be understood to be average values.
The polysaccharide hydrophilic portion of the alkyl poly glucoside contains from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1.4 to 3, saccharide units on the average. The saccharide unit may be galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl, and/or galactosyl units, and preferably glucoside unit. Mixtures of these saccharide moieties may be used in the alkyl poly saccharide. Glucoside is the preferred saccharide moiety, other saccharide moieties will act similarly, but because glucoside is the preferred saccharide moiety, the remaining disclosure will focus on the alkyl poly glucoside.
The hydrophobic group on the alkyl poly glucoside is an alkyl group, branched or unbranched, unsaturated or saturated, containing from about 6 to about 40 carbon atoms on average. Preferably the alkyl group is primarily a straight chain saturated C ₈ to C ₃₄ alkyl group.
Useful alkyl poly glucosides of the present invention are also disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,565,647, Llenado, issued January 21, 1986, having a hydrophobic group containing from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 10 to about 16 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide, e.g., a poly glycoside, hydrophilic group containing from about 1.3 to about 10, preferably from about 1.3 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.3 to about 2.7 saccharide units. Any reducing saccharide containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms can be used, e.g., glucose, galactose and galactosyl moieties can be substituted for the glucosyl moieties (optionally the hydrophobic group is attached at the 2-, 3, 4-, etc positions thus giving a glucose or galatose as opposed to a glucoside or galactoside) . The intersaccharide bonds can be, e.g., between the one position of the additional saccharide units and the 2-, 3-, 4-, and/or 6-positions on the preceding saccharide units.
Examples of alkyl poly glucoside include but are not limited to: caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (and) lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside.
Typically, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside, and more typically caprylyl/capryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.
The preferred alkyl poly glucosides are available under the trade name, for example:
For coco-glucoside: 818 UP sold by Cognis,
For decyl glucoside: 2000 UP sold by Cognis,
For caprylyl/capryl glucoside: Oramix ^TMCG 110 sold by Seppic,
For lauryl glucoside: 1200 N UP sold by Cognis,
For octyl glucoside: Rewosan sold by Rewo,
For sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate: LGC SORB.
Preferably, the amount of the non-ionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric surfactant (s)
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives.
The amphoteric surfactant selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives contains at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Mention may be made in particular of (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈–C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.
Among the (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, mentions may be made of behenylbetaine, cetyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, decylbetaine. From alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example the products sold by the company Rhodia under the tradename BB/FLA.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the compounds of formulas (II) and (III) below:
R _a-CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m-N ⁺ (R _b) (R _c) (CH ₂COO ^-) (II)
in which:
R _a represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
R _b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
R _a’ -CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m’ -N (B) (B') (III)
in which:
B represents-CH ₂CH ₂OX', with X' representing-CH ₂-COOH, CH ₂-COOZ’, -CH ₂CH ₂-COOH, -CH ₂CH ₂-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,
B' represents- (CH ₂) _z-Y', with z=1 or 2, and Y' representing-COOH, -COOZ’, -CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃H or-CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃Z’,
m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,
Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,
R _a'represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C ₁₇ alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.
The compounds corresponding to formula (II) are preferred.
Among the compounds corresponding to formula (II) , mentions may be made of cocamidopropyl betaine, for example the product sold under the tradename Dehyton PK 45 by Cognis (BASF) .
Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (IV) :
R _a” -NH-CH (Y” ) - (CH ₂) n-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂) n’-N (R _d) (R _e) (IV)
in which:
- R _a″ represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a″ -C (O) OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;
- Y'’ represents the group–C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ” , -CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃H or the group-CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃-Z” , with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
- R _d and R _e represent, independently of each other, a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds corresponding to formula (IV) , mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are selected from (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylamido (C ₁-C ₆) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, or a mixture thereof.
Preferably, the amount of the amphoteric surfactant in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oil
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one non-volatile polar oil.
Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . As the oil, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.
Preferably, the oil used is non-silicone oil, i.e. the composition according to the present invention comprises no silicone oil.
The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant origin and synthetic oils.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C ₄-C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁-C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C ₄-C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. The term “sugar” herein means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. Ifthey are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, C ₁-C ₂₆ alkyl, preferably, C ₁-C ₁₀ alkyl oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) , pentaerythrithyl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) , 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate/linolenate) .
It is preferable that the oil be selected from oils of plant origin such as linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and ester oils such as oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises the combination of oils of plant origin, C ₁-C ₁₀ alkyl palmitate and C ₁-C ₁₀ alkyl myristate
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises the combination of sunflower oil, ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate.
Preferably, the amount of the oil in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, and may range from 10 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 60 wt. %, and more preferably from 40 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hydrophilic gelling agent
The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
The gelling agent usable in the composition according to the present invention may include water soluble polymers such as, for example, high molecular weight crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid, and Acrylates/C _10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, such as the and anionic acrylate polymers such as AST and cationic acrylate polymers such as SC96; acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide; hydroxyethyl methacrylate polymers, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylate Copolymer; Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, known as 28; glyceryl polymethacrylate, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer; bentonite; gums such as alginates, carageenans, gum acacia, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, guar gum; guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, xanthan gum or gellan gum; cellulose derivatives such as sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl carboxyethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl carboxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, sulfated cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose; agar; pectin; gelatin; starch and its derivatives; chitosan and its derivatives such as hydroxyethyl chitosan; polyvinyl alcohol, PVM/MA copolymer, PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer, poly (ethylene oxide) based gelling agents, sodium carbomer, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the amount of the hydrophilic gelling agent (s) in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 3 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
Generally, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C ₂ to C ₈ lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
The term “polyol” should be understood as any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as mentioned below.
The aqueous phase may represent from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 60wt. %, and better still from 30 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Other ingredients
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise other ingredients, known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as cosmetic active ingredient, for example hydroxyacetophenone, and various common adjuvants, for example, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, preserving agents such as phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid, opacifiers, fragrances, and so on.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations, and ammonium ions;
b) from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (and) lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations, and ammonium ions;
b) from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (and) lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside; and
c) from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylamido (C ₁-C ₆) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.
Method and use
The composition according to the present invention can be used for a process for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the keratin materials.
The composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, or a cotton ball, a rod, a brush, gauze, or a spatula, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Preparation of compositions according to invention and comparative formulas
The compositions according to invention formulas (inv. ) and comparative formulas (comp. ) listed in Table 1 were prepared. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “%by weight” of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
Table 1
Preparation procedure:
The compositions are prepared as follows:
The ingredients for phase A were mixed with a dispenser at stirring speed of 200rpm and heated to 65℃. Heating was stopped and the ingredients for phase B are added to phase A to emulsify for 10 minutes. Once the mixture was cooled to 50℃, stirring speed was increased to 500 rpm and the ingredients for phase C were added and mixed for 10 minutes. The mixture was cooled down to room temperature under stirring speed of 200 rpm.
Example 2: evaluation example
The texture, makeup removing ability, foaming performance and skin/eye irritation of the compositions prepared in Example 1 were evaluated.
The makeup removing ability was evaluated based on the following protocol.
(i) Pre-treatment of bioskin:
The bioskin was washed with Shu Uemura Ultima 8 cleansing oil, then with LRP toleriane purifying foaming cream.
(ii) Application of waterproof mascara:
0.05 g Maybelline (Hyper Curl Volum Express Waterproof Mascara) per 5 cm x 5 cm bioskin was applied on the bioskin.
(iii) Dried at 32℃ for 10 minutes.
1 g of the composition to be tested was applied with gentle massage of 100 rounds, rinsed off with running water, and gently tap dried with tissue.
Photos were taken with Dermascore+and images were analyzed to detect percentage of dark pixels of the photos. Lower score means less make up residue left on the bioskin, thus better make up removability.
The scores of the makeup removing ability were given based on the following standard.

%dark pixels	0-0.5%	0.5-1%	>1%
Makeup removability	Good	Medium	bad

The skin/eye irritation was evaluated based on the following protocol.
The compositions were tested with 10 consumers as follows:
(i) Applying the composition to be tested with dry hands on dry face;
(ii) Massaging in circles to dissolve makeup on the face;
(iii) Adding water to lather and rinsing off thoroughly.
(iv) Asking the consumers whether the composition has skin/eye irritation during each step.
The scores of skin irritation were given based on the following standard.

No. of consumer claimed irritation	0	1-3	>3
Irritation level	Low	Medium	High

Whether there was a cream-oil-transformation was observed through sensory feeling during application.
Foaming performance was evaluated by 10 consumers aged from 20 to 40 with following procedure:
(i) Applying the composition to be tested on dry face and massaging in circle;
(ii) Wetting face with water to generate foam for better cleansing;
(iii) Rinsing off with water.
The scores of foaming performance were given based on the following standard:
Score 5: at least 80%of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
Score 4: from 60%to 80% (not included) of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
Score 3: at least 50%of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
Score 2: more than 60%of consumers consider the effect being poor and unacceptable;
Score 1: more than 80%of consumers consider the effect being poor and unacceptable
The results were as follow:
N/A: not tested.
It is clear from the results listed above, that the compositions according to the present invention show much better rinsing stability, as compared to the comparative compositions. Meanwhile, the compositions according to the present invention bring no irritation to the skin and eyes.
It was also found that the compositions according to the present invention show a cream-oil transformation during application and are able to render the skin fresh and clean.
While illustrative examples of the invention have been described above, it is, of course, understood that various modifications will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the relevant art, or may become apparent as the art develops, in the light of the foregoing description. Such modifications are contemplated as being within the spirit and scope of the invention or inventions disclosed in this specification.

Claims

A composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising:

a) at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates; and

b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl poly glucoside of formula (I)

R-O-G _x’ (I)

wherein

R is a C ₆-C ₄₀ alkyl group,

G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

x’ is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl poly glucoside from 1 to 10.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the dialkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the dialkyl sulfosuccinate in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the non-ionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives.
The composition according to claim 6, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from compounds of formulas (II) and (III) below:

R _a-CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m-N ⁺ (R _b) (R _c) (CH ₂COO ^-) (II)

in which:

R _a represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

R _b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

R _a’-CON (Z) CH _2- (CH ₂) _m’ -N (B) (B') (III)

in which:

B represents-CH ₂CH ₂OX' , with X' representing-CH ₂-COOH, CH ₂-COOZ’ , -CH ₂CH ₂-COOH, -CH ₂CH ₂-COOZ’ , or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents- (CH ₂) _z-Y' , with z=1 or 2, and Y' representing-COOH, -COOZ’ , -CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃H or-CH ₂-CHOH-SO ₃Z’ ,

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,

R _a' represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C ₁₇ alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.
The composition according to claim 6, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylamido (C ₁-C ₆) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, or a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, further comprising at least one non-volatile polar oil.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, further comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one aqueous phase.
A composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations, and ammonium ions;

b) from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (and) lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside; and

c) from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylamido (C ₁-C ₆) alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.
A process for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to any of claims 1-12, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.