EP3833319A1

EP3833319A1 - Bi-phase composition comprising an anti-transpirant or deodorant agent

Info

Publication number: EP3833319A1
Application number: EP19749742.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Laura CLEMENT
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2018-08-09
Filing date: 2019-08-09
Publication date: 2021-06-16
Also published as: WO2020030784A1; FR3084835A1; FR3084835B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a bi-phase composition comprising: a) an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent; and b) an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. It also relates to a kit and to cosmetic processes using said composition or said kit.

Description

Bi-phase composition comprising an anti-transpirant or deodorant agent

This invention relates to a bi-phase composition comprising an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent; and an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, and at least one perfume. It also relates to a kit comprising each separate phase (aqueous and oily).

In the field of cosmetics, the use of anti-transpirant and/or deodorant products for topical application containing substances that have the effect of limiting the transpiration flow and the development of unpleasant smells is well known. These products are generally available in roll-on, stick, aerosol or spray form.

Unlike solid roll-on or stick type formulations, anti-transpirant and/or deodorant compositions are more pleasant and easier to apply (usually in aerosol or spray form) particularly when they avoid the formation of residues on the skin.

Liquid formulations comprising a deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent, for example an aluminum salt, usually comprise a perfume. However, this perfume degrades over time, particularly due to adsorption by the aluminum salt, which deteriorates its organoleptic properties.

Therefore there is a need for anti-transpirant formulas comprising a perfume, that protect the perfume from degradation. There is also a need for anti-transpirant formulas comprising a non-negligible quantity of a perfume.

There is also a need for deodorant and/or anti-transpirant compositions that can be created by consumers themselves. Users could adjust the deodorant and/or anti- transpirant efficiency, and the olfactory intensity, to suit their needs.

The applicant has now discovered that these objectives could be achieved by bi-phase compositions comprising an aqueous phase comprising a deodorant and/or anti- transpirant agent, and an oily phase comprising a perfume. These bi-phase compositions protect the perfume from degradation, and have good cosmetic properties. They can also be modulated and formulated according to consumers’ needs.

Therefore the present invention relates to a bi-phase composition comprising: a) an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent; and

b) an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Preferably, the bi-phase composition according to the invention comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.

The present invention also relates to a kit comprising:

i) a composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent; and

ii) a composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, of at least one perfume.

Compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention are preferably identical to the aqueous phase a) and the oily phase b) of the composition, respectively.

The expression“bi-phase composition” or bi-phase designates a composition that is made of up two distinct phases, one aqueous phase and one oily phase, which requires prior stirring to form an emulsion before application.

All compositions according to this invention are cosmetic compositions.“Cosmetic” means a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages.

This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising stirring of a bi-phase composition according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials.

This invention also relates to a cosmetic product to treat human transpiration and/or body odors related to transpiration consisting of mixing a bi-phase composition according to the invention, and then applying it on the surface of a human keratin material.

This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the preparation of a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of a composition i) with a composition ii) of the kit according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials. Preferably, the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.

This invention also relates to a cosmetic product to treat human transpiration and/or body odors related to transpiration consisting of preparing a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of a composition i) with a composition ii) of the kit according to the invention, and then applying it on the surface of a human keratin material. Preferably, the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.

“Human keratin materials” refers to the skin (body, face, eye contour), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips and mucous membranes.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The bi-phase composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase. Composition i) of the kit according to the invention comprises, and preferably consists of, an aqueous phase.

An aqueous phase means a phase containing water and generally any molecule dissolved in water in the composition. Preferably, the aqueous phase is an aqueous solution.

The aqueous phase according to the invention contains water.

Optionally, it may also be connected to other water-soluble or miscible solvents. The water-soluble or miscible solvents comprise short-chain monoalcohols for example in C1 - C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol (or 1 ,2- octanediol), diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether and sorbitol. In particular ethanol, hexylene glycol and/or caprylyl glycol will be used.

Preferably, water and possibly the water-soluble or miscible solvent(s) have a content of at least 55% by weight of the relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and preferably at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight.

The concentration of the aqueous phase preferably varies from 50 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the bi-phase composition and more preferably 60 to 90% and more preferably 65 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the bi-phase composition.

The aqueous phase according to the invention comprises at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent.

In the context of the present invention, the term "deodorant agent" denotes any agent that, alone, has the effect of masking, absorbing, enhancing and/or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat.

The term "antiperspirant agent" denotes any substance that, alone, has the effect of reducing sweat flow, reducing the damp sensation on the skin associated with human sweat, masking human sweat.

Anti-transoirant agents

Anti-transpirant agents according to this invention are advantageously chosen from among anti-transpirant salts or complexes.

Among anti-transpirants, it is advantageous to mention anti-transparent salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium.

With this purpose in mind, mention can be made of aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid like those described in patent US-3792068, aluminum chlorohydrate aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered by sodium and aluminum lactate.

Among the aluminum and zirconium salts mention can be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentach loro hydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate. Zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).

Among these products, mention can be made of complexes of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.

Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is in particular sold under the trade name REACH 301® by SUMMITREHEIS.

Among complexes of aluminum and zirconium, mention can be made of complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having INCI name: ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY for example that sold under the trade name REACH AZP-908-SUF® by SUMMITREHEIS.

Use will be made more particularly of aluminum chlorohydrate sold under the trade names LOCRON S FLA®, LOCRON P, LOCRON L.ZA by CLARIANT; under the trade names MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE®, MICRO-DRY 323®, CHLORHYDROL 50, REACH 103, REACH 501 by SUMMITREHEIS; under the trade name WESTCHLOR 200® by WESTWOOD; under the trade name ALOXICOLL PF 40® by GUILINI CHEMIE; CLURON 50%® by INDUSTRIA QUIMICA DEL CENTRO; CHLOROHIDROXIDO ALUMINIO SO A 50%® by FINQUIMICA.

According to one particular embodiment, the anti-transpirant agent is chosen from among an aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine complex, aluminum chlorohydrate and mixes thereof.

Anti-transpirant salts or complexes that may be in the form of mixes of salts and/or complexes described above, can be present in the aqueous phase with a content of 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, for example from 10 to 28% by weight, for example from 12 to 25% by weight.

Deodorant aaents

The aqueous phase may also contain at least one deodorant agent.

Among deodorant agents, mention may be made of:

- bacteriostatic agents or other bactericide agents such as:

2,4,4’-trichloro-2’-hydroxydiphenylether (T riclosan),

2,4-dichloro-2’-hydroxydiphenylether, 3’,4’,5’-trichlorosalicylanilide,

1 -(-3’,4’-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4’chlorophenyl)urea (T riclocarban) or

3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca-2,5, 10-trienol (Farnesol) ;

Quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts;

chlorhexidine and salts;

diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, glycerol monolaurate;

polyhexamethylene biguanide salts;

- zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (more commonly referred to as zinc pidolate), zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, zinc citrate, zinc chloride, zinc laurate, zinc oleate, zinc orthophosphate, zinc stearate, zinc tartrate, zinc lactate, zinc acetate or mixtures thereof;

- odor absorbers such as zeolites, cyclodextrins, metal oxide silicates such as those described in application US2005/063928; metal oxide particles modified by a transition metal such as those described in applications US2005084464 and US2005084474, aluminosilicates such as those described in application EP1658863, chitosan derivative particles such as those described in patent US6916465;

- substances inhibiting enzyme reactions responsible for the formation of odorous compounds such as triethyl citrate, arylsulfatase, 5-Lipoxygenase, aminocyclase, b-glucoronidase inhibitors;

- and mixtures thereof.

Deodorant agents may be present in the aqueous phase with a content of 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and preferably with a content of 1 to 10% by weight.

Electrolytes

The aqueous phase may also include electrolytes. These electrolytes may be chosen from among monopotassium or dipotassium phosphate, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate and disodium EDTA.

The electrolytes may be present in a quantity between 0.1% and 5% by weight, and preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. OILY PHASE

The bi-phase composition according to the invention also comprises at least one oily phase. Composition ii) of the kit according to the invention comprises, and preferably consists of, an oily phase.

The oily phase generally includes one or a plurality of hydrophobic compounds rendering said phase non-miscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C).

Preferably, the oily phase generally comprises at least an oil, preferably at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and possibly at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.

“ON” means a fatty body that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg namely 10⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" according to the invention denotes any oil capable of evaporating in contact with skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils according to the invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10³ to 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

The term "non-volatile oil" denotes an oil remaining on skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure less than 10^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

Oils complying with the invention are preferably chosen from among all cosmetically acceptable oils, particularly mineral, animal, vegetable and synthetic oils, particularly hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils and mixes thereof.

“Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or several functions chosen from among hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30,000 mPa.s.

“Silicone oil” means an oil comprising carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom in its structure.

By way of examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly petroleum- based C₈-Ci₆ isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C₈-Ci₆ branched esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Solt by SHELL, may also be used;

- volatile linear alkanes comprising 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane. Preferably, the volatile linear alkanes comprise from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, particularly from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms. As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention can be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1 ), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from among n-nonane, n- undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane and mixes thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixes of n-undecane (C1 1 ) and n- tridecane (C13).

By way of examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

plant-based hydrocarbon oils such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, coconut, cotton, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dimethyl ether;

synthetic esters particular of fatty acids such as the oils having the formula R₁COOR₂ wherein R₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R₁ + R₂ > 10 such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate)), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ci₂ to C₁₅ alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxy stearate, diisostearyl- malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol;

- higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

- carbonates;

- acetates; or

- citrates.

Among volatile silicones, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10 ⁶ m²/s, and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, as a volatile silicone oil suitable for use in the invention, in particular, of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyl trisiloxane oils with general formula (I):

in which R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

As examples of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are non-volatile and linear or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethyl- siloxysilicates; and mixtures thereof. More particularly, a linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) may be used.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from among isoalkanes in C₈-Ci₆ from mineral origin such as isododecane and volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof; and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from among esters of fatty acids with formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a ramified chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R₂ > 10.

Preferably, the oil(s) is (are) present with a content of at least 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, preferably at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight.

The concentration of the oily phase preferably varies from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the bi-phase composition, and more preferably 20 to 40% and more preferably 25% to 35%.

Perfume The oily phase comprises at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

The perfume present in the oily phase can be any perfume known in prior art.

It can be one of the perfumes described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (2003 edition), and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991 ", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III. It can also be a natural product (essential, absolute oils, resinoids, resins, concretes) and/or synthetic products (terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic), provided that they are fragrant.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least 3% by weight and preferably at least 3.5% by weight, of perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Preferably, the oily phase comprises from 2.5% to 10% by weight and preferably 3 to 7% by weight, of perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Oily phase colorant

The oily phase according to the invention may include an oily phase colorant (or liposoluble colorant).

Among the liposoluble colorants, particular mention can be made of Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6 (Cl 61565), b-carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC orange 4 (Cl: 15510, Na salt ), DC Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, Red 21 , Red 27 and beta- carotene.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises from 0.0005% to 0.1% by weight and preferably 0.001 to 0.01 % by weight, of liposoluble colorant, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Surfactant

The oily phase according to the invention can comprise at least one surfactant.

The surfactants can be of any sort usually used in cosmetics, such as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or non-ionic surfactants.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises a non-ionic surfactant. This non-ionic surfactant may have an HLB of between 2 and 1 1 . The term HLB (“Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance”) is well known to an expert in the subject and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant. The HLB or hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of the surfactants used according to the invention can be determined using the GRIFFIN method or the DAVIES method. The scale varies from 0 to 20 (including bounds otherwise the molecules are no longer surfactants). The solubility in water increases as this value increases, and conversely, the surfactant will have an increasing affinity for oil as this value decreases. The HLB according to GRIFFIN is defined in the publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Volume 5), pages 249-256 or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the book by the authors F. PUISIEUX and M. SEILLER, entitled "GALENICA 5: Dispersed systems - Volume I - Surface agents and emulsions - Chapter IV - HLB and critical HLB concepts, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Experimental determination of HLB, pages 164-180.

Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are used such as:

- C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, having in particular from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, such as oxyethylene ether of lauric alcohol with 4 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Laureth-4"), oxyethylenated ether of decylic alcohol with 3 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Deceth-3"), oxyethylenated ether of oleic alcohol with 5 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Oleth-5"), oxyethylenated ether of cetearylic alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylenated ether of stearylic alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRIJ 78 marketed by UNIQEMA, or oxyethylenated ether of cetearylic alcohol with 33 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-33") ;

- ethers of C8-C30 fatty alcohol and sugar, particularly alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, alone or in mixtures with alcohols;

- ethers of polyethylene glycol, having in particular from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide motifs, and esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of glucose or of methylglucose,

- esters of C₈-C₃o fatty acids and sorbitan,

- esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, particularly having from 2 to 50 moles (particularly from 10 to 50 moles) of ethylene oxide (such as the ester of oleic acid and sorbitan with 40 oxyethylenated groups (PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate), or sorbitan monostearate with oxyethylenated groups (polysorbate-61 ),

- mono or diesters of C8-C30 fatty acids and glycerol,

- esters of C8-C30 polyglycerolated fatty acids, having in particular from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol,

- esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyethylenated glycol, having in particular from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide motifs,

- esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of glucose or of alkyl(C1 -C2)glucose or sucrose, and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from among C8-C30 (preferably C10-C18) polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols, particularly with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, alone or mixed with alcohols and esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, particularly having 2 to 50 moles (particularly from 10 to 50 moles) of ethylene oxide.

The alkyl polyglucosides used in the framework of the invention may or may not by polyalkoxylated. In particular, mention may be made of the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol and of cocoglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 82® by Seppic, the mixture of arachidylic alcohol and of behenyl alcohol with arachidylglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 802® by Seppic, the mixture of myristyl alcohol and of myristylglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 14® by Seppic, the mixture of cetylstearalic alcohol and of cetylstearylglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 68® by Seppic, the mixture of C14-C22 alcohol with C12-C20 alkylglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV L® by Seppic, the mixture of cocoalcohol and cocoglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV S® by Seppic or the mixture of isostearyl alcohol and isostearylglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV WO 18® by Seppic.

According to one particular embodiment, the alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides are chosen from among compounds with the following general formula:

RO-(G)a

wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, having from 12 to 44 carbon atoms, the group G denotes a saccharide residue comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is number varying from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 and even more preferably a is equal to 1.

According to one particular embodiment, R denotes a branched alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 44 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 36 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to another particular embodiment, the saccharide residue is chosen from among glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose, starch and methyl glucose. More preferably, the saccharide residue denotes xylose.

The alkyl polyglucosides may be chosen particularly from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols comprising from 12 to 44 atoms of carbon and glucose, maltose, sucrose, xylose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols comprising 12 to 44 atoms of carbon and methyl glucose.

The fatty motif of ether can be chosen particularly among cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, hexadecanoyl, octyldodecyl motifs and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl. Preferably, these are octyldodecyl motifs.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from among compounds with the following formula:

R'O-G

wherein R' designates a saturated branched alkyl radical comprising 12 to 44 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 36 and even more preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms, the group G designates a saccharide residue comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a xylose residue.

In particular, the alkyl polyglucoside is an octyldodecyl xyloside like that marketed under the tradename FLUIDANOV 20 X by SEPPIC in the form of a mixture composed of 75% of octyldodecanol and 25% of octyldodecyl xyloside. The HLB of this surfactant, calculated using the Davies method, is 3.425.

The surfactant can be present in a quantity ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, preferably ranging from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 0.09% by weight.

According to one particular embodiment, the surfactant is of the alkyl polyglucoside type, and is preferably octyldodecyl xyloside. According to one particular embodiment the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C10-C26 alcohol, such as octyldodecanol, in a mass ratio of Cio-C₂₆ alcohol / surfactant of the alkyl polyglucoside type, in particular octyldodecanol/octyldodecyl xyloside, varying from 3 to 5, and preferably 4.0.

Preferably, the oily phase and/or the bi-phase composition according to the invention does (do) not comprise any other surfactants different from the surfactants mentioned above.

ADDITIVES

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological agents. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can furthermore comprise cosmetic additives chosen from among opacifiers, preservatives, solar filters, dermatological or cosmetic agents, fillers, suspension agents, sequestrants or any other ingredient routinely used in cosmetics for this type of application.

The bi-phase composition according to the invention is liquid.

“Liquid” means that the composition is sufficiently fluid so that it can be stirred and/or so that it can be sprayed. The bi-phase composition according to the invention is thus not solid, and in particular is neither a stick nor a roll-on.

The bi-phase composition according to the invention can be contained in a device such that it can be applied on the skin, particularly by spraying. Preferably, this device is a pump bottle.

Therefore another purpose of this invention is a device comprising the bi-phase composition according to the invention, said device preferably being a pump bottle, particular made of plastic (PET type) or glass.

This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising stirring of a bi-phase composition according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials. Stirring is typically done manually.

The invention also relates to a kit comprising:

ii) a composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention are preferably identical to the aqueous phase a) and the oily phase b) as described, respectively.

Typically, each composition i) and ii) is liquid. Each composition i) and ii) is thus not solid, and in particular is neither a stick nor a roll-on. This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the preparation of a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of two compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials. Preferably, the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.

This invention also relates to a cosmetic product to treat human transpiration and/or body odors related to transpiration consisting of preparing a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of two compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention, and then applying it on the surface of a human keratin material. Preferably, the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.

Obviously, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition(s).

The examples that follow illustrate this invention. The quantities are given as percentages by mass in relation to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 : Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention

Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention are prepared according to the method described hereinbelow and containing the ingredients mentioned in the following table. Each formula is composed of 70% by weight of a composition C1 (i.e. aqueous phase), and 30% by weight of composition C2 (i.e. oily phase):

^* which represents 0.025% of octyldodecyl xyloside active material and 0.075% of octyldodecanol active material.

All phase A ingredients are mixed, then all phase B materials. Phases A and B are then mixed to obtain composition C1 .

Similarly, all phase C ingredients are mixed, and then all phase D ingredients.

Phases C and D are then mixed to obtain composition C2.

Finally, 70% by weight of an appropriate composition C1 (C1 -1 , -2, -3 or -4) is mixed with 30% by weight of an appropriate composition C2 (C2-1 , -2, -3 or -4), and formulas F1 , F2 and F3 respectively are obtained. Example 2: Remanence test with formula F3 to the invention

- 2 250 g glass pots (P1 and P2) with lid

- 2 magnetic stirring plates

- 2 magnetized bars

Formula F3 containing 1 .2% of perfume

- Test strips

Protocol:

100g of formula F3 is weighed in each glass pot: therefore each of the two pots P1 and P2 contains 100g of formula F3.

A magnetized bar is added into each pot and the pots are closed with their lids, then pot P1 is stirred by means of the magnetized bar on the magnetic stirring plate for 5 minutes (stirring such that there is a vortex forcing the two phases, oily and aqueous, to disperse homogeneously).

A panel - at least 10 persons with experience in olfactory evaluations - smells firstly the two pots P1 and P2 at rest (pot P1 that was stirred was allowed to return to the static state):

At TO: 100% of the panelists evaluate that the intensity of the perfume in pot P1 is equal to that in pot P2.

Pot P1 is then stirred on the magnetic stirring plate (stirring such that there is a vortex forcing the two phases, oily and aqueous, to disperse homogeneously); pot P2 is left in the static state.

Each formula contained in the pots is put into a pump bottle and sprayed on test strips at different given times, to be evaluated by the panelists on the intensity of the perfume according to the following scale (score):

1 - NO/NOTHING

2 - WEAK

3 - MEDIUM

4 - STRONG

5 - VERY STRONG

Results: Formula in pot P1 : formula under stirring

- Formula in pot P2: formula remained in the static state

Conclusion:

It is observed that remanence of the perfume reduces significantly more when the formula is stirred (pot P1 ), i.e. when the aluminum salts come into contact with the perfume more frequently and more closely. They degrade its intensity. Example 3: Tests with different quantities of Fluidanov 20X surfactant (Seppic) in a formula according to the invention

Formulas F5 and F6 were prepared similar to F1 with the only difference being the quantity of Fluidanov 20X surfactant:

octyldodecanol active material

^* which represents 0.0125% of octyldodecyl xyloside active material and 0.0375% of octyldodecanol active material

The formulas are prepared, each is placed in a PET drum and phase separation is measured.

It is found that phase separation remains significant at concentrations of less than 0.1%.

At 0.05% of Fluidanov 20X (formula F5), the two phases remain perfectly transparent and the interface clearly defined.

Without Fluidanov 20X (= 0% of Fluidanov 20X, formula F6), the two phases remain perfectly transparent and the interface well defined, but there a few drops of oil in the aqueous phase stuck to the walls of the PET drum.

This phenomenon does not occur when formula F6 is put in a glass pack.

Thus, the presence of Fluidanov 20X helps good separation in the case of a PET type plastic packaging.

Example 4: Tests with different surfactants in a formula according to the invention

Different surfactants with HLB between 8 and 10 were tested in formula F2 in example 1 ; the 0.1% of Fluidanov 20X was replaced by 0.1 % of each of the following surfactants, and five formulas were thus prepared:

For each formula above, compositions C1 are identical to composition C1 -2 with formula F2 described in example 1.

Compositions C2 are identical to composition C2-2 with formula 2 in example 1 , except that they contain 0.1% of the surfactant defined above instead of 0.1% of Fluidanov 20X.

The appearances of the interfaces are evaluated at TO, T 1 min, T5min, T 15min and T2h.

At TO, the results show that all surfactants are miscible, but cloudiness can be seen in the oily phase with polysorbate-61 and oleth-5. All interfaces are clearly defined.

At T1 min, Fluidanov 20X enables the fastest separation.

At T5min, deceth-3 has the behavior closest to that of Fluidanov 20X, followed by PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate. The polysorbate-61 , laureth-4 and oleth-5 surfactants appear to slow down separation.

At T15min, deceth-3 enables phase separation with a clearly defined interface and two transparent phases, like Fluidanov 20X. PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate does give two transparent phases, but the interface is still not clearly defined (a whitish separation phase is observed at the top of the aqueous phase). The other surfactants give non-transparent oily phases that are not well-defined.

At T2h, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate and deceth-3 are conforming with Fluidanov 20X. PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate takes longer to return to bi-phases (with a clearly defined interface) than deceth-3, but deceth-3 leaves oil droplets in contact with the wall in the aqueous phase, which is not the case with PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate.

When the tests are repeated with different quantities of deceth-3 and PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, the following are observed: At 0.5% of surfactant, the results at T1 min, T5min and T15min show that separation is not facilitated (it takes a much longer time).

At 0.05% of surfactant, the results at U rnin, T5min and T15min show that separation is facilitated, especially with PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate.

For deceth-3, separation takes very slightly faster at 0.05% than at 0.1%, but oil droplets remain stuck on the walls in the aqueous phase.

This, it is shown that good phase separation can be achieved with surfactants with an HLB of between 8 and 10.

Claims

1. Bi-phase composition comprising:

a) an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent; b) an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase,

and at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from among alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, alone or mixed with alcohols; and esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, particularly having from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.

3. Composition according to either claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the anti-transpirant agent is chosen from among aluminum and/or zirconium antiperspirant salts or complexes, preferably from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with or without an amino acid, aluminum chlorohydrate aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered by sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine complexes, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the anti- transpirant agent is present in the aqueous phase with a content of 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, for example from 10 to 28% by weight, for example from 12 to 25% by weight.

5. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the oily phase comprises:

- at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen particularly from among isoalkanes in C₈-Ci₆ from mineral origin such as isododecane and volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof; and

at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen particularly from among esters of fatty acids with formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a ramified chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R₂ > 10.

6. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the oil is present with a content of at least 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, preferably at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight.

7. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least 3% by weight and preferably at least 3.5% by weight of perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase; preferably the oily phase comprises from 2.5% to 10% by weight and preferably 3 to 7% by weight of perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

8. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the surfactant is present in a quantity ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, preferably ranging from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 0.09% by weight.

9. Kit comprising:

ii) a composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, and

at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from among alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, alone or mixed with alcohols; and esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, particularly having from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide.

10. Cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising stirring of a bi-phase composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials.

11. Cosmetic process for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the preparation of a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of a composition i) with a composition ii) of the kit according to claim 9, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials.

12. Method according to claim 1 1 , characterized in that the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.