EP3206661A1 - Method for simultaneously and permanently shaping and colouring keratin fibres - Google Patents

Method for simultaneously and permanently shaping and colouring keratin fibres

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Publication number
EP3206661A1
EP3206661A1 EP20150759799 EP15759799A EP3206661A1 EP 3206661 A1 EP3206661 A1 EP 3206661A1 EP 20150759799 EP20150759799 EP 20150759799 EP 15759799 A EP15759799 A EP 15759799A EP 3206661 A1 EP3206661 A1 EP 3206661A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
wt
preferably
m1
m2
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EP20150759799
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Torsten LECHNER
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; MANICURING OR OTHER COSMETIC TREATMENT
    • A45D7/00Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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    • A61K8/22Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
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    • A61K8/23Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
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    • A61K8/24Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
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    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; MANICURING OR OTHER COSMETIC TREATMENT
    • A45D2/00Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
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    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K2800/596Mixtures of surface active compounds
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    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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    • A61K2800/87Application Devices; Containers; Packaging
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for permanently shaping and colouring keratin fibres, in particular human hair, in a single process, in which the keratin fibres are subjected to a waving process by means of a foaming wave preparation (M1) and subsequently, to an oxidative bleaching or colouring process by means of a foaming colouring agent (M2). Due to the oxidizing agent contained in the oxidative colouring agent, the permanent wave is simultaneously fixed. Said claimed method results in the hair being simultaneously waved and coloured and also results in the hair having little or to no damage thereto.

Description

METHOD FOR SIMULTANEOUSLY FORMING PERMANENT AND COLOR KERATIN FIBERS

The invention relates to a process for the permanent deformation and color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in a single process.

A permanent deformation of keratin fibers is usually carried out in such a way that it deforms the fiber mechanically and fixing the shape by suitable means. Before and / or after this shaping, the fibers are treated with a keratin-reducing composition. After rinsing, the fiber is then in the so-called fixing step treated with an oxidizing agent preparation, and rinsed to or from the molding assistants during the fixing step freed (winders, curlers). When a mercaptan, such as ammonium thioglycolate is used as the keratin-reducing component, that splits a portion of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule to thiol-groups, so that there will be a softening of the keratin or to a swelling of the fibers while increasing the fiber diameter , During the subsequent oxidative fixation disulfide bridges are established in the hair keratin, so that the keratin is fixed in the predetermined deformation again. Alternatively, it is known to use for shaping hair instead of mercaptans sulfite. By bisulfite solutions and / or sulfite solutions and / or bisulfite solutions disulfide bridges of the keratin are in a sulfitolysis according to the equation

R - S - S - R + HS0 3 () -> R - SH + R - S - cleaved S0 3 () and reaches in this way a softening of the keratin. Bisulfite, sulfite or disulfite reducing agent does not have the strong odor of merkaptanhaltigen agent. The cleavage can be as previously described undone in a fixing step with aid of an oxidizing agent to form new disulfide bridges.

If in addition to forming a coloring of the keratinous fiber is desired, the dyeing may be carried out as a separate treatment prior to or after the successful transformation. In particular, in the case of the oxidative dyeing but this leads to an extreme stress on the keratin fibers, as each oxidative treatment of the fibers damages the internal structure thereof. Moreover, such a procedure is very time consuming because a period of 2 weeks or more must be provided between the forming and the coloring treatment to avoid the previously mentioned extreme stresses and associated injuries. There have therefore already been some methods for simultaneously forming and dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular hair, proposed. In many cases, an oxidizing agent preparation is used to in the fixing step, which contains the oxidant direct dyes and / or oxidation dye precursors. A corresponding procedure is described for example in DE 197 13 698 C1. However, this approach has the disadvantage that the coloring simultaneously with fixation, that occurs at a time when the deposited fibers to be treated on molding aid and thereby are under mechanical stress. This hinders the uniform application of the coloring agents, so that the danger of an uneven dyeing result is.

From EP 0352375 A1 and EP 1287812 A2 A method of simultaneously shaping and coloring of hair are known in which a keratin-reducing composition is used which already contains the necessary direct dyes and / or oxidation dye precursors. At least part of the respective keratin-reducing composition is applied to the hair after it has been mechanically deformed. However, the direct dyes used for coloring and / or oxidation dye precursors have, compared to the keratin-reducing preparation is not always a satisfactory stability, so that in case of the reaction of direct dyes and / or oxidation dye precursors may occur with the keratin-reducing preparation uneven transformation & staining.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a forming and dyeing process for keratinous fibers, in particular for human hair, provide, wherein the forming and the coloration may be performed in a single process and which provides a comparable or better conversion result, the keratin fibers evenly dyed in the desired color and leads to only small or even absolutely no hair damage.

Surprisingly, the object is achieved by a method in which the keratinous fibers are deformed after application to molding assistant by means of a reducing agent composition, and then an oxidative dyeing composition is applied was found. both an excellent forming result and an even and intense coloring or lightening is achieved by removing the molding aid during the reaction of the oxidative dye composition. In addition, when using the process procedure according to the invention, a surprisingly low or even no hair damage occurs. The sequential execution of the dying step forming and permits a significant time savings compared to the forming and coloring in two separate and sequential procedures performed.

A first object of the invention is therefore a process for the permanent deformation and color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in a single process, the method comprising the following steps in the given order: (a) shaping of keratinous fibers using molding assistants,

(B) applying an aqueous composition (M1) containing at least one keratin-reducing compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as a foam on the center of the deformation auxiliary In situated keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M1) for a time from 5 to 50 minutes on the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers,

(C) rinsing and optionally drying the molding assistants located on the keratin fibers,

(D) applying a composition (M2) containing at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as a foam to the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M2) for a time 10 to 15 minutes on the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers,

(E) removing the molding aid from the keratinous fibers,

(F) distributing in step (d) composition applied to the keratin fibers and / or re-application of the composition (M2) containing at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as foam the keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M2) for a time of 15 to 30 minutes on the keratin fibers,

(G) rinsing the keratin fibers, and

(H) optionally, applying a finishing composition to the keratinous fibers.

As keratin fibers all animal hair, eg, wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products made therefrom or textiles can be used in principle. however, the invention is preferred in the context of a simultaneous forming and hair coloring, permanent waving and coloring in particular the smooth hair and wigs manufactured therefrom, are used.

According to the invention, the permanent deformation and color changer manure, so the perm and oxidative hair coloring, carried out in a single process. In a single process here is that between the end of one and the beginning of the next process step 30 seconds to 2 hours, preferably 30 seconds to 1 hour, preferably 30 seconds to 30 minutes, especially 30 seconds to 15 minutes, are meant.

Molding aid in the sense of the inventive method are preferred so-called permanent wave rollers or curlers. According to the invention particularly preferred method result in a corrugation of the keratin fibers with simultaneous lightening or color change of the hair color, which is present before carrying out the inventive method. Preferably is therefore carried out as a permanent deformation as a permanent wave and color change, a whitening or coloring.

In the first process step (process step a)) of the inventive method the keratin fibers are deformed using a molding assistant. As a molding aid in particular permanent wave rollers or curlers are suitable in this context. To facilitate the application of the keratinous fibers to the shaping aid, it may be preferable in the invention when the keratin-containing fibers prior to step (a) moistened with water or washed with a hair cleanser. The use of a hair cleaning agent, in particular a hair shampoos, can be appropriate if the hair is very dirty. After rinsing the hair shampoos, the hair is towel-dried so that a perceptible residual moisture remains in the hair. Have the hair no heavy contamination on, it is preferred to humidify the keratin fibers with water, in order to ensure a separation into defined, individual strands of hair. This can preferably be done with water, for example by spraying the fibers with a liquid.

In order to avoid excessive wear and damage to the keratinous fibers while the inventive method, (a) are preferably used shaping aid in step having a certain diameter. Particularly preferred methods according to the invention are therefore characterized in that in method step molding aid (a) used 1-8 cm, preferably from 1 to 6 cm, especially 2 to 5 cm having a diameter of 1 to 10 cm, preferably.

By the use of molding assistants, which have holes, both the conversion and the oxidative dyeing result, especially brightening or coloring, be improved, as in this way allows a uniform wetting of the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers with the forming and coloring agents becomes. It is therefore preferred in the invention, when the in process step (a) shaping aid used holes in a number of 1 to 10,000, preferably from 10 to 9.000, preferably from 100 to 8000, more preferably from 300 to 7.000, in particular from 500 to 6000 comprise ,

In a second process step (step b)) is applied to the signal already in the molding assistants keratin fibers an aqueous composition (M1). This aqueous composition (M1), which is also referred to as a reducing agent is left for a period of 5 to 50 minutes on the keratinous fibers. According to the invention but rather shorter exposure times of the reducing agent are. Particularly preferred methods according to the invention are therefore characterized in that in process step (b) composition used (M1) for a time of 10 to 50 minutes, preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 to 40 minutes, especially from 20 to 40 minutes is left on the molding assistants located on the keratinous fibers. The use of a reducing agent (M1) causes a portion of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule is reduced to thiol-groups, so that there will be a softening of the keratin fibers on the molding assistants. In order to obtain a uniform forming result, in particular permanent waving result, the reducing agent (M1) should be applied evenly to the keratin fibers. For this purpose, it may be preferable to repeat the application of the reducing agent several times, to ensure that the keratinous fibers completely with the reducing agent (M1) are wetted.

Following the contact time of the reducing agent, the keratin fibers are rinsed to the shaping aids and optionally dried (step c)). The drying of the hair can be accomplished using a towel or a hair dryer or a heat dome. When drying with a towel an appreciable residual moisture in the fibers remains. When drying with a hair dryer or a heating hood, the moisture content of the dry fibers located with the humidity of the air is substantially in equilibrium or the fibers are capable of moisture from the air of the environment to record. However, drying is preferably carried out according to the invention, since in this case better lightening or staining results.

After drying of the keratin fibers is in process step d) of the inventive method, a composition (M2), hereinafter referred to as a coloring agent applied to the still on the molding assistants keratin fibers and left to act for a period of 10 to 15 minutes. To ensure a uniform and complete wetting of the keratinous fibers, it may be preferred that colorant one behind the other to be applied several times to the keratinous fibers. The existing in the colorant-oxidants, particularly hydrogen peroxide, leads to firstly to an oxidation of the thiol groups of the softened keratin fibers and thus to a fixation of the deformed, in particular corrugated, keratinous fibers. On the other hand, the oxidizing agent results in the composition (M2) to form the desired color of the oxidation dye precursors, in particular to a bleaching or coloring of the keratinous fibers.

After removing the molding aid in process step e), the remaining to the keratin fibers colorant is dispersed or reapplied colorant to achieve complete wetting of all keratinous fibers and thus an excellent fixing and lightening or dyeing power (step f)) and left for a period of 15 to 30 minutes. According to the invention but rather shorter exposure times are. The method according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the composition used in step (f) (M2) for a time of 15 to 25 minutes, especially from 15 to 20 minutes, is left on the keratinous fibers.

After rinsing the composition (M2) in step g) of the inventive method, without having to perform another oxidative dyeing process, immediately obtain a transformation, in particular curl, and color change, especially lightening or dyeing keratinous fibers without the keratinous fibers to damage by the simultaneous corrugation and brightening or coloring excessively. This can achieve a strong time saving compared to the implementation of the corrugation and brightening or coloring as two separate procedures, as between these procedures to avoid damage to the hair may usually be a certain period of 1 to 3 weeks. In the process of the invention, it is preferable that performed for the in process step (g) rinsing the keratin fibers water is used at a temperature of 20 to 45 ° C.

When used in process step b) the aqueous composition (M1) is a reducing agent containing a keratin-reducing compound at least. According to the invention a composition is an aqueous composition meant that at least 50 wt.% Water, based on the total weight of the composition containing. This aqueous composition (M1) may be oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion be in various forms, for example as a lotion. According to the invention in process step (b) used composition (M1) as the keratin-reducing compound at least one compound from the group of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, phenylthioglycolic, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and salts and esters thereof, cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid, Alkalidisulfiten such as sodium disulfite (Na2S20s) and potassium disulphite (K2S2O5) and Magnesiumdisulfit and ammonium ((NH 4) 2S20s), bisulfites of alkali metal salts, magnesium, ammonium or alkanol ammonium salts based on a C2-C4-mono- , di- or trialkanolamine, and sulphites as alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts based on a C2-C4-mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. The aforementioned compounds are able to reduce the disulfide bonds of keratin to thiol groups and to thus ensure the required conversion to softening of the keratin fibers.

Be particularly advantageous in the context of this embodiment, it has been found if the process in step (b) used composition (M1) containing at least one compound from the group of thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine ​​and salts thereof as keratin-reducing compound. The use of keratin-reducing compounds mentioned above provides a sufficient reduction of the disulfide bonds at relatively low concentrations secure so that the generation of unpleasant smells during the forming process can be largely avoided.

According to the invention in process step (b) used composition (M1) the at least one keratin-reducing compound in a total amount of from 5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 7 to 18 wt .-%, preferably from 9 to 16 wt .-% , based in particular from 10 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1). The use of such amounts will ensure a sufficient softening of the keratin fibers, but without damaging the fibers excessively, or releasing unpleasant odors during application. This can achieve a good result reshaping without excessive hair damage.

The reducing agent used in process step b) (M1) further comprise at least one alkalizing agent to adjust the desired pH value as well as to support the Haarquellung or the enlargement of the hair diameter. Preferably, the composition (M1) used in process step (b) contains as alkalizing agent at least one compound from the group of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl propane, alkali metal and ammonium hydrogencarbonates. This alkalizing agents are even in the presence of the reducing compound (s) stable and does not lead to instability and pH fluctuations of the reducing agent (M1).

In this context it is advantageous if the composition used in step (b) (M1) as alkalizing ammonium bicarbonate and / or ammonium hydroxide. The use of such alkalizing agents has proved to be particularly advantageous with regard to the pH stability and storage stability of the reducing agent (M1).

According to one embodiment of the present invention in step (b) used composition (M1) at least one alkalizing agent in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 12 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, particularly 1, 5 to 7 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1). The use of the amounts previously mentioned resulted in an excellent support Haarquellung. Furthermore, when using these amounts of the adjustment of the desired pH values ​​from pH 5 to pH ensured 12th

In the context of the present invention in step (b) preferably used compositions (M1), therefore, have a pH value of from 5 to 12, preferably from 5 to 10, especially from 5 to 9.5, at 20 ° C. Particularly good results in the present invention are obtained when in step (b) composition (M1) used is a weight ratio of the keratin-reducing compound to the alkalizing agent is from 1: 200 to 1: 1, preferably from 1: 50 to 1: 1, preferably from 1: 30 to 1: 1, more preferably from 1: 20 to 1: 1, especially from 1: 10 to 1: 1, comprises. The use of the above-mentioned weight ratios resulting in a particularly effective hair softening or Haarquellung, thus providing a long-lasting deformation result sure which does not significantly affect, in particular also deteriorated by the subsequent dyeing or Aufhellschritt is.

To achieve a better wetting of the keratin fibers with the reducing agent (M1), the composition (M1) used in process step (b) contains as surfactant at least one compound from the group of alkyl (ether) sulfates, alkyl betaines, and nonionic surfactants. Surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which comprise at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety. The use of surfactant (s) in the reducing agents (M1) provides a clean and localized application and permits uniform and rapid application to the keratinous fibers. Further, a running or flowing out of the reducing agent (M1) is avoided by the keratin fibers during the reaction.

In the context of this embodiment, in step (b) used composition (M1) as the surfactant alkyl (ether) sulfates corresponding to formula (I)

R 1 - (0-CH2-CH2) x-0-S0 3 - X +

wherein R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, x represents the number 0 or a number of 1 to 12, and X + is an alkali metal or an ammonium ion. Preferred alkyl (ether) sulfates are selected from the group of straight or branched alkyl (ether) sulfates with an alkyl group having from 8 to 18, especially having 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 6 ethylene oxide, preferably sodium lauryl sulfate and / or sodium laureth sulfate.

Furthermore, it is within the scope of this embodiment is advantageous when the composition (M1) used in process step (b) as a surfactant betaines of the formula (II)

wherein R 1 and R 3 each independently represent a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a C2-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, and R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated Ci-C2o-o alkyl chain contains. A particularly preferred betaine of the formula (II) is, for example Cocosalkyldimethylbetain which KB is commercially available under the trade name Genagen by the company Clariant.

Furthermore, it may be provided in the context of this embodiment that in process step (b) composition (M1) used as the surfactant, nonionic surfactants selected from the group of ethoxylated and / or propoxylated alcohols and carboxylic acids having 8 to 13 carbon atoms and 2 to 30 ethylene oxide - and / or propylene oxide units, addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, alkyl polyglycosides of the formula R 1 0- [G] p in which R 1 is an alkyl and / or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is numbers from 1 to 10, including monoethanolamides of carboxylic acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. In the formula R 1 0- [G] P is the index number p indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglucosides, and is Whereas p in a given compound always be an integer for a number of 1 to 10 needs to be and above all the values ​​p = can take 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglucoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity which is generally a broken number. According to the invention preferably alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides used 1 to 3.0 with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1. In performance terms, such alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1, 7 and in particular between 1, 2, and 1, 7 is situated. The alkyl or alkenyl R 1 may be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 20, preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms. According to the invention very particularly preferably alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 2 / i 4-coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 -3, such as are commercially available for example under the INCI name "Coco-Glucoside". Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, addition products of 20 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, especially under the INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil known compounds.

The use of the aforementioned surfactants in the reducing agent (M1) results in a foam-like composition which can be easily and rapidly be applied to and provides excellent wetting of the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers. Under foam-like composition is meant a composition according to the invention which is present as a foam. Foams are colloid-chemical systems of gas-filled cells which are bounded by liquid, semi-liquid or highly viscous cell walls.

In order to obtain a sufficient amount of foam surfactants previously listed must be used in certain ranges of amounts. According to the invention, therefore, preferred methods are characterized in that the composition (M1) used in process step (b) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 1, 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 2.0 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 2.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1) containing. The use of the above-mentioned amounts of surfactant provides excellent wetting of the keratin fibers and results in aqueous compositions (M1) which can be applied cleanly and rapidly due to the foam-like consistency. In addition, this consistency prevents dripping of reducing agent composition (M1) during the exposure time.

The reducing agents used in the process according to the invention (M1) can be formulated as propellant-free composition or a propellant-containing composition. Propellant-free reducing agent (M1) can be applied in any propellant-free spray system comprising a dispensing container and a spray valve, ie for. B. a flexible printing cylinder with dip tube and spray valve (squeeze Bottie) or in a pump spray bottle, the pump lever is operated with the forefinger or with the whole hand in the manner of a trigger guard.

If the reducing agent (M1) formulated as a blowing agent-containing composition, they additionally contain at least one propellant. Within this embodiment, the aqueous composition comprises (M1) at least one blowing agent selected from the group consisting of N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, air, propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane, iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof, preferably a mixture of propane and n-butane in a weight ratio of 15:85.

Within this embodiment, it is further preferred if the aqueous composition (M1) at least one blowing agent in a total amount of 0.5 to 16 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 0 to 14 wt .-%, preferably 3, 0 to 13 wt .-%, more preferably from 4.0 to 12 wt .-%, particularly, from 5.5 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1) containing.

When used in process step d) composition (M2) is an oxidative hair, in particular a colorant which brightens the present prior to carrying out the method according to the invention hair color or color changed. According to the invention in process step (d) composition (M2) used therefore contains at least one oxidation dye precursor in the form of a developer component and at least one oxidation dye precursor in the form of a coupler component. When using oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and the intermediate type in the colorant (M2) is particularly good dyeing results are obtained. The primary and secondary intermediates are normally used in free form. For substances containing amino groups, it may be preferable, however, to use the salt form, especially in the form of hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or sulfates.

According to the invention, compositions (M2) preferably containing the developer and coupler substances in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-% , in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) contain.

In a further preferred embodiment the inventive method is therefore characterized in that in process step (d) used composition (M2), the oxidation dye precursor in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-% , preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) containing.

Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are, for example, p-phenylenediamine and its derivatives. Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group which is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl- p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine and N- (4-amino-3-methyl-phenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine as well as their physiologically acceptable salts.

It may according to the invention further be preferred to use as the developer component compounds containing at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups. Preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diaminopropane-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

It may also be preferable in the invention as the developer component derivative is a p-aminophenol or to use one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred p-aminophenol, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and physiologically compatible salts. The developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, preferably 2-amino-4-methyl phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.

The developer component can be selected from heterocyclic developer components such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are 2,4,5,6-tetraamino pyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts. A preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, and the physiologically tolerated salts thereof. As pyrazolopyrimidines particular pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines preferred.

Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are therefore selected from the group which is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N , N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H- imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis- (2-hydroxy -5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10- bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-amino-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-2- (1 , 2- dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) - pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2, 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine or the physiologically compatible salts of these Verbindun gene.

Particularly preferred primary intermediates are p-toluylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H - imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and physiologically compatible salts.

The composition in step (d) used (M2) contains, as oxidation dye precursor adjacent at least one developer component further additionally contains at least one coupler component. The coupler components usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are used nolderivate.

According to the invention, preferred secondary intermediates are selected from

(A) m-aminophenol and its derivatives, in particular 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- ( 2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,

(B) o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, (C) m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2 ', 4 '-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1 -methylbenzol, 2 - ({3 - [( 2- hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol and 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol,

(D) o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives,

(E) di- or Trihydroxybenzolderivaten, in particular resorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene,

(F) pyridine derivatives, in particular 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5- diamino-2,6-dimethoxy-pyridine,

(G) naphthalene, Wiel-naphthol and 2-methyl-1-naphthol,

(H) morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine,

(I) quinoxaline derivatives,

(J) pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one,

(K) indole derivatives, such as 6-hydroxyindole,

(L) pyrimidine derivatives or

(M) methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and the physiologically acceptable salts thereof.

According to the invention, preferred secondary intermediates are therefore selected from the group which is formed from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino- 4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methyl phenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4- diaminophenoxy) ethanol , 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl), 2,6- bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1 - methyl benzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl ) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4- ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxy-ethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1 , 2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2 - methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1, 5 -Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7- dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline, or the physiologically tolerated salts of the aforementioned compounds. According to the invention particularly preferred intermediates are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diamino-phenoxy) propane , 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1 - naphthol, and their physiologically tolerable salts.

In a further embodiment, the inventive method 2 is characterized in that in process step (d) used composition (M2) as oxidation dye precursor, at least one developer and coupler component selected from the group which is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H- imidazol-1 -yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- ( 4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propane

2- ol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) - 1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxy- ethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine or contains -Tetraaminopyrimidin, the physiologically compatible salts of these compounds, as well as additionally at least one coupling component of the group formed of 3- aminophenol, 5-amino-2- methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-methyl phenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) - propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benz ol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis -methylbenzol -1 (2'-hydroxyethylamino), 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy -5- methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3- morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino

3- bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1, 2,4-tri-hydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine , 2,6-di- hydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, -phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one 1, 1 - naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2 , 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline, or the physiologically tolerated salts of the aforementioned compounds.

Oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and of the coupler type are preferably used in certain combinations. In the present invention, the following combinations have proved to be particularly advantageous: p-toluenediamine / resorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 2-methyl-resorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol; p-toluylene-diamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; p-toluenediamine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy); p-toluenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; p-toluenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, p-toluenediamine / 1-naphthol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine /

3- aminophenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol; 2- methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 3-aminophenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy); 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 2- methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1 - yl) propyl] amine / resorcinol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2- methylresorcinol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 3-aminophenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) - propane; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1 - naphthol; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / resorcinol; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-methylresorcinol; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 5-amino-2-methyl phenol; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2- (2,4-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 4,5-di- amino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-naphthol. It is however also possible within the scope of the present invention, the composition used in addition to the above combinations in addition further oxidation dye precursors in accordance with process step (d) (M2) use.

Particularly attractive colorations are obtained if in step (d) composition used (M2) at least one developer component chosen from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-p- phenylenediamine, 1, 3-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4 'aminophenyl) amino] -propan-2-ol, 1, 10-bis (2', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7, 10- tetraoxadecane, 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl phenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine , 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) - pyrazole, their physiologically tolerable salts and mixtures thereof, and at least one coupler component chosen from the group of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5 -Dimethylresorcin, 4-chlororesorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 5-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 3-amino 2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 2,4 -Diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2 '-hydroxyethyl) amino-anisolsulfat, 1, 3-bis- propane (2,4-diaminophenoxy), 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino- 6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7- dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 2,6-bis - [(2 'hydroxyethyl) amino] toluene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, their physiologically tolerable salts and their containing mixtures.

It is further preferred in this connection if in process step (d) composition used (M2) at least one developer component chosen from p-toluene diamine and its physiologically acceptable salts and at least one coupler component chosen from the group of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol , 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-aminophenol, contains the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. When using the aforesaid oxidation dye precursors, a particularly good whitening or coloring is achieved, which has a high resistance to environmental influences, such as shampoos and UV light, perspiration and rubbing.

In order to obtain a balanced and subtle nuances training, it may be further provided in the present invention is that the method in step (d) composition (M2) used additionally contains at least one substantive dye. In direct dyes are dyes that attach directly to the hair and require no oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylendiamines, Nitroaminophenole, azo dyes, anthraquinones or Indophenole.

Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic direct dyes.

Preferred anionic direct dyes are known under the names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50 Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, and tetrabromophenol known compounds. Preferred cationic direct dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems which are substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, and Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51st Preferred nonionic direct dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, and 1, 4-diamino-2- nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4 , 6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1 - amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3 nitrophenol, 1 - (2'-

Ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - benzoic acid [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] 6-nitro-1, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and their salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

Furthermore occurring dyes Henna Chamomile, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, catechu and alkanet can be used as direct dyes in nature are used as red for example, henna, henna neutral, black, are included.

Preferably, the method in step (d) used composition (M2) additionally contains at least one substantive dye is present in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2).

The oxidation dye precursors (developer and coupler) themselves are not colored. The formation of the actual dyes takes place only by contact of the oxidation dye precursors with an oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide). In a chemical reaction, the developer components (such as p-phenylenediamine derivatives or p-aminophenol) used as oxidation dye precursors are first oxidatively called by hydrogen peroxide in a reactive intermediate, and quinone or quinone diimine, transferred, which then for in an oxidative coupling reaction with the coupler components respective dye reacts.

The compositions (M2) contain one or more additional oxidising agents, which are different from atmospheric oxygen. Suitable oxidizing agents are persulfates, peroxodisulfates, chlorites, hypochlorites, and in particular hydrogen peroxide and / or its solid addition products with organic or inorganic compounds are eligible. According to the invention, preferred methods are, therefore, characterized in that in process step (d) composition used (M2) containing at least one oxidizing agent selected from the group of persulfates, chlorites, hydrogen peroxide and adducts of hydrogen peroxide onto urea, melamine and sodium borate.

In the present invention, it is advantageous if the in process step (d) used composition (M2) comprising at least one oxidizing agent in a total amount of 1, 0 to 12 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 5 to 12 wt .-% , preferably from 2.0 to 12 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 3.0 to 12 wt .-%, in particular 4.0 to 12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) containing. This amount of the oxidizing agent provides for a sufficient fixation of the deformed keratin fibers safe and ensures the response of the developer and coupler components used to form the desired dyes. If used as an oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide and its solid adducts, the above-mentioned total amount calculated on 100% H2O2.

A particularly preferred in the present invention, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. Preferred methods according to the invention are therefore characterized in that in process step (d) used composition (M2) as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5% ​​by weight, preferably 1 , 5 to 10 wt .-%, particularly 1, 5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) containing. The total amount mentioned above is calculated in this case to 100% H2O2.

In order to achieve an enhanced brightening and whitening effect, the composition (M2) may further comprise at least one peroxo salt. Suitable peroxo salts are inorganic peroxo compounds, preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonium, alkali metallperoxodisulfaten, Ammoniumperoxomonosulfat, Alkalimetallperoxomonosulfaten, alkali and alkaline earth metal metallperoxodiphosphaten and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are peroxodisulfates, in particular ammonium, potassium and sodium.

The aforementioned peroxy salts are present in a total amount of 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 10 wt .-%, especially 3 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) contain.

Also, the colorants (M2) may contain at least one alkalizing agent to adjust a basic pH value. The setting of a basic pH-value using the at least one alkalizing agent is required in order to ensure opening of the outer scale layer (cuticle) and to allow a penetration of oxidation dye precursors into the hair.

According to the invention, preferred methods are, therefore, characterized in that in process step (d) composition (M2) used has a pH of pH 7.0 to pH 14.0, preferably from pH 8.8 to pH 1 1, 0, preferably from , having pH 9.0 to pH 10.8, in particular from pH 9.2 to pH 10.5 at a temperature of 20 ° C.

According to the invention can be used, organic alkalizing agents are preferably selected from alkanol amines from primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C2-C6-Alkylgrundkörper which carries at least one hydroxyl group. According to the invention particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl propan-1, 3-diol as well as their mixtures. A particularly preferred alkanolamine is monoethanolamine. Suitable basic amino acids are lysine, arginine and ornithine. According to the invention, inorganic alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention particularly methods are therefore characterized in that in process step (d) composition (M2) used as the alkalizing agent at least one compound from the group of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl propane, alkali metal and ammonium hydrogencarbonates, contains.

In this context, it is particularly preferred if in process step (d) composition used contains (M2) as an alkalizing monoethanolamine. In this way, the occurrence of unpleasant smells during the oxidative dyeing, in particular dyeing or bleaching, is avoided.

To establish a basic pH, the alkalizing agent should be used in certain quantities. According to the invention advantageously, the process in step (d) used composition (M2) therefore, at least one alkalizing agent in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 12 wt .-%, preferably of 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M2).

In the oxidative coloring agent (M2) also is an aqueous composition which is in the form of a foam. In order to ensure a stable foam, therefore, the composition (M2) at least one surfactant. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition in step (M2) (d) used comprises as surfactant at least one alkyl betaine, at least one alkyl polyglucoside, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant. By covering the foam packaging particularly good wetting of the keratin fibers is achieved. A particularly good wetting is necessary because the molding assistants located on the keratinous fibers for the colorant (M2) are not easily accessible and in case of insufficient wetting of the risk of an uneven dyeing result. Furthermore, the application as a foam prevents downward flow of the colorant (M2) during removal of the molding assistant.

In this context, it is preferred if in process step (d) composition used (M2) as a surfactant betaines of the formula (II)

wherein R 1 and R 3, each independently represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a C2-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, particularly methyl group, and are for R 2, is a saturated or unsaturated Ci-C2o o-alkyl chain, in particular Cocosalkylgruppe, contains. A particularly preferred betaine of the formula (II) is, for example Cocosalkyldimethylbetain which KB is commercially available under the trade name Genagen by the company Clariant.

In addition, it is preferred in the context of this embodiment, when the in process step (d) used composition (M2) as the surfactant alkyl polyglucosides of formula (III)

RO- [G] p (Hl)

wherein R 4 is an alkyl and / or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is numbers from 1 to 10, contains. The index p in the general formula (III) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglucosides and is Whereas p in a given compound to be always an integer and need here for a number between 1 and 10. Before all the values ​​of p may assume a value from 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglucoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity which is mostly a broken number. According to the invention preferably alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides used 1 to 3.0 with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1. In performance terms, such alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1, 7 and in particular between 1, 2, and 1, 7 is situated. The alkyl or alkenyl R 14 may be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 20, preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms. According to the invention very particularly preferably alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 2 / i 4-coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 -3, as are obtainable for example under the INCI name "Coco-Glucoside" in the trade.

Moreover, it is preferred in this embodiment, when the in process step (d) composition used (M2) as the surfactant, nonionic surfactants with an HLB value greater than 10, especially greater than 14, which have at least 30 ethylene oxide units. Suitable nonionic surfactants are for example adducts of from 20 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, especially under the INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil known compounds.

Furthermore, the use of anionic surfactants is possible in this embodiment. These are characterized by a hydrophilic anionic group such. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, characterized. In addition, these surfactants, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and also hydroxyl groups may have. According to the invention suitable anionic surfactants can be used each in the form of sodium, potassium and ammonium salts and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group. Preferably, the in process step (d) used composition (M2) as a surfactant at least one anionic surfactant from the group of alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates and / or sulfosuccinic steinsäuremonoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and from 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 4 ethoxy groups in polyoxyethylene.

By using the aforementioned surfactant is both a high amount of foam and high foam stability can be achieved. The foam-like texture of the composition (M2) results in a uniform wetting of the located on the molding assistants keratin fibers, so that an uneven dyeing result is avoided. Furthermore, the foam-like composition (M2) can be well spread on the keratinous fibers and does not flow down during the exposure time.

A foam-like texture of the composition (M2) to obtain the surfactants listed above would be used in a given total amount. According to the invention it is therefore preferred that the composition in step (M2) (d) used containing at least one surfactant in a total amount of 5.0 to 40 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 35 wt .-%, preferably from 15 to 30 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 27 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M2).

In another embodiment of the present invention, it may be provided that compositions (M1) and (M2) used in process steps (b), (d) and (f) in each case additionally at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) Verdickungsm edium n; (Ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (Iii) cationic polymers; (Iv) extracts, especially extracts of algae; and (v) mixtures thereof containing.

Within this embodiment, Verdickungsm edium have proved to be particularly advantageous which contain at least one monomer of the type of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and their derivatives. A according to the invention particularly preferred polymer is a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters with Ci-C4 alkyl groups. A according to the invention particularly preferred polymer is that known under the INCI name of Acrylates Copolymer copolymer of two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters with Ci-C4 alkyl groups. Another according to the invention particularly preferred polymer is a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer which is also known as carbomer. Further according to the invention particularly preferred polymers are methacrylic acid-free copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylic acid Ci-C4-esters.

The thickening agent is present in the compositions (M1) and / or (M2) is preferably (in a total amount of 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition M1) or (M2), are used.

In the present invention, it may be advantageous to the compositions (M1) and (M2) further add at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol. As alcohols, alcohols with C8-C22, are used especially with Ci2-C22 alkyl groups. Used for the purposes of the invention are, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, Decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and Behenylal - alcohol, and Guerbet alcohols thereof. The alcohols preferably originate from natural carboxylic acids, usually can be assumed to be obtained from the esters of the carboxylic acids by reduction. According to the invention can likewise be used such alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or of their transesterification products formed with corresponding alcohols carboxylic acid esters, and thus represent a mixture of different alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, lsocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or Isocarb ® commercially available. The alcohols can be present in the compositions (M1) and / or (M2) in a total amounts of from 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M1) or (M2) be included.

The compositions (M1) and / or (M2) may further contain at least one cationic polymer. Cationic polymers are polymers understood, which exhibit, "temporarily" in the main and / or side chain groups or can be "permanently" cationic. As According to the invention, those polymers "permanent cationic" having independent of the pH value of the agent is a cationic group. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups in particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium groups are bound via a C 4 hydrocarbon group to a synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof, polymer backbone, have proved to be particularly suitable.

Particularly preferred cationic polymers are selected from the compounds having the INCI name "Polyquaternium". Particularly preferred are Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-37 and Polyquaternium-39 used; extraordinary preferred are Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-37 and Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-22 is most preferred.

Other preferred cationic polymers are for example

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially. The compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer ®

JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name Cosmedia Guar ® and

Jaguar ® products sold,

Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol.

Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ® HS 1 10, Luviquar ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS available 370 are.

The cationic polymers are present in the compositions (M1) and / or (M2) in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly from 0.25 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight the composition (M1) or (M2) contain.

Finally, the compositions (M1) and / or (M2) can extract at least one further, in particular contain a seaweed extract. Algae extracts contain components such as carotenoids, proteins and amino acids, polyphenols, unsaturated fatty acids and vitamins, polysaccharides, antioxidant activity mineral substances such as selenium and zinc, antioxidative enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase and peroxidase, as well as minerals such as potassium, magnesium and iron. Algae extracts and particularly preferably used are aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic extracts of the blue-Algentaxon Spirulina. Such extracts may be obtained for example by extraction of dried blue-green algae with water or a water / glycol mixture.

The extracts can be used in the compositions (M1) and / or (M2) in a total amount of

contain 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, particularly from 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M1) or (M2).

The present invention is particularly illustrated by the following points:

1 . Process for the permanent deformation and color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in a single process, the method comprising the following steps in the given order:

(A) deforming of keratin fibers using molding assistants,

(B) applying an aqueous composition (M1) containing at least one keratin-reducing compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as a foam to the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M1) for a time of 5 to 50 minutes on the keratinous located on the molding assistants fibers,

(C) rinsing and optionally drying the molding assistants located on the keratin fibers,

(D) applying a composition (M2) containing at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as a foam to the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M2) for a time 10 to 15 minutes on the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers,

(E) removing the molding aid from the keratinous fibers,

(F) distributing in step (d) composition applied to the keratin fibers and / or re-application of the composition (M2) containing at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as foam the keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M2) for a time of 15 to 30 minutes on the keratin fibers,

(G) rinsing the keratin fibers, and

(H) optionally, applying a finishing composition to the keratinous fibers. out according to item 1, characterized in that are carried out as a permanent deformation as a permanent wave and color change, a whitening or coloring. out of one of items 1 or 2, characterized in that in process step molding aid (a) used have a diameter of 1 to 10 cm, preferably from 1 to 8 cm, preferably from 1 to 6 cm, especially 2 to 5 cm, respectively.

out according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used preferably, the at least one keratin-reducing compound in a total amount of from 5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 7 to 18 wt .-%, 9-16 wt .-%, particularly from 10 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1) containing.

out according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used as an alkalizing agent at least one compound from the group of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl propane, alkali - and ammonium hydrogencarbonates contains.

out according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used at least one alkalizing agent in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 12 parts by weight preferably from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, particularly 1, 5 to 7 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1) containing%.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used is a weight ratio of the keratin-reducing compound to the alkalizing agent of 1: preferably 1: 200 to 1: 1, preferably from 1: 50 to 1 of 1: 30 to 1: 1, more preferably from 1: 20 to 1: 1, especially from 1: 10 to 1: 1, comprises.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that the composition (M1) used in process step (b) sulfates as surfactant at least one compound from the group of alkyl (ether) containing alkyl betaines, alkyl polyglucosides and nonionic surfactants.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used at least one surfactant in a total amount of 1, 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 2.0 to 15 wt preferably from 2.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1) containing%.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (d) composition (M2) used in the at least one oxidation dye precursor of a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) containing.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (d) composition used (M2) as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, preferably 1, 5 to 10 wt .-%, particularly 1, 5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) containing.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (d) composition (M2) used as the alkalizing agent at least one compound from the group of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl propane, alkali and contains ammonium hydrogencarbonates.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (d) used composition (M2) at least one alkalinizing agent in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 12 parts by weight preferably from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M2) containing%.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (d) composition (M2) used as a surfactant at least one alkyl betaine, at least one alkyl polyglucoside, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant.

A method according to any of the preceding points, characterized in that in process step (d) composition (M2) used at least one surfactant in a total amount of 5.0 to 40 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 35 wt .-%, preferably from 15 to 30 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 27 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M2) containing. achfolgenden examples are intended to illustrate preferred embodiments of the invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

1 . An aqueous composition (M1) - waving compositions

The aqueous composition (M1) in the form of a corrugated medium was obtained by mixing the ingredients listed below.

Table 1: Wave Agent

1 Cremophor CO 60 (INCI name: PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, BASF)

2 Texapon NSO (INCI name: Sodium laureth sulfate; BASF)

3 Eumulgin® L (INCI name: PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether; BASF)

2. Oxidative colorants (M2)

The dye cream of Table 2 described below was prepared and in each case immediately before use in a ratio of 1: mixed with the stated in Table 3, oxidizing agent preparation 01 1:

Table 2: coloring cream

Amount of raw material (wt .-%)

Plantacare 818 UP 1 25

Genagen KB 2 30

Cremophor CO 60 3 3.0

EDTA, tetrasodium salt 0.2

Monoethanolamine 6.0

sodium sulfite 0.2

Vitamin C 0.05

L-serine 1, 0

Vitale Eau d'algue bleue 4 2.0

Merquat 281 5 3.0

p-Toluylenediamine 1, 6

resorcinol 0.4

2-Methylresorcinol 0.4

3-Aminophenol 0.05 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine 0.03

perfume 0.5

Water ad 100.0

1 Plantacare 818 UP (INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua (Water); Cognis)

2 Genagen KB (INCI name: Coco-Betaine, Clariant)

3 Cremophor CO 60 (INCI name: PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, BASF)

4 Eau Vitale d 'algue bleue (INCI name: Aqua (Water), plankton extract; Penoxyethanol;

Soliance)

5 Merquat 281 (INCI name: Polyquaternium-22; Lubrizol)

Table 3: oxidizing agent preparation 01

1 Texapon NSO UP (INCI name: Sodium laureth sulfate; BASF)

2 Aculyn 33 A (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer; Rohm & Haas)

3. Experimental procedure and evaluation of results:

Undamaged hair dampened with water, rubbed with a towel. Then, a strand of hair was divided in the width of the wrapper used and smoothly combed. The hair tress was placed centrally folded tip paper between a sheet and wound onto curlers with a diameter of 2 to 5 cm with holes (about 500 to 6000 holes per wrapper). This process was repeated until all the hair is wound on curlers.

The waving agent prepared according to point 1 in the form of a foam was applied to the aufwickelten hair and left for a contact time of 20 to 40 minutes on the hair. Subsequently, the wound hair was rinsed with water having a temperature of 30 ° C and dried lightly with a hair dryer.

After drying, the slight oxidative colorants prepared according to point 2, in foam form was applied to the wound hair and left for a contact time of 10 to 15 minutes on the hair. Subsequently, the permanent wave rollers were removed and the remaining foam distributed in the hair. After another contact time of 15 to 30 minutes the hair was rinsed with water having a temperature of 30 ° C, rubbed with a towel and dried with a hair dryer.

The result was a smooth wool and dyeing, the hair was and not harmed only extremely low by the inventive process.

Claims

claims
1 . Process for the permanent deformation and color change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in a single process, the method comprising the following steps in the given order:
(A) deforming of keratin fibers using molding assistants,
(B) applying an aqueous composition (M1) containing at least one keratin-reducing compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as a foam to the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M1) for a time of 5 to 50 minutes on the keratinous located on the molding assistants fibers,
(C) rinsing and optionally drying the molding assistants located on the keratin fibers,
(D) applying a composition (M2) containing at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as a foam to the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers, and leaving this composition (M2) for a time 10 to 15 minutes on the located on the molding assistants keratinous fibers,
(E) removing the molding aid from the keratinous fibers,
(F) distributing in step (d) composition applied to the keratin fibers and / or re-application of the composition (M2) containing at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one surfactant, from an application device as a froth on the keratinous fibers and leaving this composition (M2) for a time of 15 to 30 minutes on the keratin fibers,
(G) rinsing the keratin fibers, and
(H) optionally, applying a finishing composition to the keratinous fibers.
2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used preferably, the at least one keratin-reducing compound in a total amount of from 5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 7 to 18 wt .-%, 9-16 wt .-%, particularly from 10 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1) containing.
3. A method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used as an alkalizing agent at least one compound from the group of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2 -methylpropan, alkali metal and ammonium hydrogencarbonates contains.
4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used which comprises at least one alkalizing agent in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 12 includes, .-%, preferably from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, particularly 1, 5 to 7 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1).
5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used is a weight ratio of the keratin-reducing compound to the alkalizing agent is from 1: 200 to 1: 1, preferably from 1: 50 to 1: 1 , preferably from 1: 30 to 1: 1, more preferably from 1: 20 to 1: 1, especially from 1: 10 to 1: 1, comprises.
6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used as a surfactant at least one compound from the group of alkyl (ether) sulfates containing alkyl betaines, alkyl polyglucosides and nonionic surfactants.
7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in process step (b) composition (M1) used contains said at least one surfactant in a total amount of 1, 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 2.0 to 15 includes, .-%, preferably from 2.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M1).
8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in process step (d) composition used (M2) as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 parts by weight %, preferably 1, 5 to 10 wt .-%, particularly 1, 5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition (M2) containing.
includes 9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in process step (d) composition used (M2) as a surfactant at least one alkyl betaine, at least one alkyl polyglucoside, at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant.
10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in process step (d) used composition (M2) at least one surfactant in a total amount of 5.0 to 40 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 35 parts by weight preferably from 15 to 30 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 27 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition (M2) containing%.
EP20150759799 2014-10-15 2015-09-07 Method for simultaneously and permanently shaping and colouring keratin fibres Pending EP3206661A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

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Family Cites Families (6)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4630621A (en) * 1985-09-27 1986-12-23 Susanne Pontani Method and composition for simultaneously permanently waving and dyeing human hair
US5161553A (en) * 1986-09-19 1992-11-10 Clairol Incorporated Process for simultaneously waving and coloring hair
EP0352375B1 (en) 1988-07-26 1994-11-02 Teh-Shan Chang Preparation for dyeing and setting hair
US5340367A (en) * 1993-02-11 1994-08-23 Shiseido Co. Ltd. Permanent waving and color enhancing composition and method
DE19713698C1 (en) 1997-04-03 1998-06-04 Goldwell Gmbh Dyeing and perming hair
DE10143293A1 (en) 2001-09-04 2003-03-20 Wella Ag A method of simultaneously dyeing and permanent waving of hair

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