EP2320868A2 - Produit de traitement capillaire à extrait de spirulina - Google Patents

Produit de traitement capillaire à extrait de spirulina

Info

Publication number
EP2320868A2
EP2320868A2 EP09782549A EP09782549A EP2320868A2 EP 2320868 A2 EP2320868 A2 EP 2320868A2 EP 09782549 A EP09782549 A EP 09782549A EP 09782549 A EP09782549 A EP 09782549A EP 2320868 A2 EP2320868 A2 EP 2320868A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
amino
hair
blue
agent
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP09782549A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Sabrina Zirwen
Astrid Kleen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2320868A2 publication Critical patent/EP2320868A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an agent for the color and / or permanent change in shape of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing compound and an extract of a blue-green algae.
  • the blue-green algae are preferably freshwater blue algae, most preferably the genus Spirulina.
  • the invention relates to a method of such agents on keratin-containing fibers.
  • the invention relates to the use of the dyeing agent and / or permanent shape change.
  • the change in shape and color of the hair represents an important area of modern cosmetics.
  • various dyeing systems depending on the requirements of the dyeing.
  • it has long been customary to subject the fibers to a special aftertreatment following the color or shape-changing treatment.
  • combination preparations have also been developed to reduce the burden of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers.
  • the active substances which can be used in the context of such combination preparations must meet high requirements, in particular with regard to their stability, since the dyeing creams or corrugating agents usually have a high pH and the oxidizing agent preparations have a low pH. Furthermore, incompatibilities of the various active substances with each other and thus a low storage stability should be avoided.
  • oxidative hair dyes are disadvantageous for the user despite their advantageous dyeing properties:
  • the use of the oxidizing agent for coloration or development of the actual dyeing leads to damage in the hair structure and on the hair surface.
  • the hair becomes brittle, its elasticity diminishes and the combability decreases. This damage increases with the duration of use.
  • Commercially available oxidative colorants usually have to act on the hair fiber for a period of 30 minutes and longer. The increase in the exposure time leads to an increased impairment of the hair structure.
  • oxidative colorants usually require a basic pH for coloration, in particular between pH 9.0 and pH 10.5.
  • such a colorant has the disadvantage that it may cause irritation of the eyes or scalp in addition to additional damage to the hair by ammonia, which sensitization or even allergic reactions can be caused.
  • such colorants have an intense, unpleasant odor, which can also lead to irritation of the nasal mucosa in the worst case.
  • the production and storage of ammonia-containing colorants may be associated with problems in terms of handling and stability.
  • the hair structure is also affected by external environmental influences. These include mechanical and thermal effects, such as combing and blow-drying. Likewise, weather influences, such as wind, rain and UV radiation in sunlight, and additional external stresses, such as chlorinated swimming pool water or sweat, contribute to damage to the hair structure and the hair surface.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a color and / or shape-changing agent, by means of which the abovementioned disadvantages of customary color and / or shape-changing agents are lowered.
  • the color and / or shape-changing agents are intended to protect the hair and thus cause a reduced damage to the hair. Just attacked and damaged by external influences hair should experience as little additional damage by staining. In particular, protection against oxidative damage to the hair structure and the hair surface should be achieved by the color and / or shape-changing agents.
  • the color and / or shape-changing agent acts moisture-regulating and / or structuring hair and skin and at the same time improves the result of the color and / or shape-changing treatment in its properties, such as the fastness properties.
  • Nursing properties of the compositions are particularly desirable, so that the user can do without the use of additional conditioning and aftertreatment agents.
  • the agents should as far as possible be used in a physiologically less impairing pH range, in particular in a neutral pH range.
  • color and / or shape-changing agents which, in addition to a color and / or shape-changing component, contain an extract of blue-green algae avoid the abovementioned disadvantages. Due to the protective effect when using the composition according to the invention, the hair damage can be minimized or even a hair care can be achieved.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore an agent for the color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing compound and additionally an extract of a blue-green algae.
  • compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.
  • the agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • the agent according to the invention contains an extract of a blue-green algae.
  • Blue algae also referred to as cyanobacteria, which together with diatoms, green algae, gold algae and dinogellates are reckoned to photoautotrophic plankton, the phytoplankton, are able to synthesize a broader part of the natural light spectrum for photosynthesis due to a particular complex of phycobilins besides chlorophyll to use, which also makes it possible to occur in less dense areas.
  • Blue algae Due to the different composition of the phycobilin complex with blue (phycocyanin) or red (phycoerythrin) fractions, blue-green algae also appear in reddish, greenish or black forms in addition to the name-giving bluish colorations.
  • Blue algae are Gram-negative and one-to-many-celled. Blue algae occur in both salt and fresh water. Examples of freshwater blue-green algae are the genera Oscillatoria and Spirulina.
  • Blue-green extracts are rich in proteins, sugars, vitamins and trace elements, especially sodium, potassium, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, aluminum, copper and iron. Such extracts are suitable for strengthening the hair in its structure, improving the surface and also exerting a positive, revitalizing effect on the scalp.
  • extracts of blue-green algae it is possible to compensate for hair damage in the hair-dyeing and / or -varnishing step and to maintain the natural moisture content of the hair.
  • an extract of blue-green algae into the coloring and / or shape-modifying agents, it is therefore unnecessary to use nourishing aftertreatment agents or conditioners.
  • extracts of blue-green algae that occur primarily in fresh water.
  • the preparation according to the invention is obtained from the blue-green algae constituents
  • Preparations can be used which are obtained by means of mechanical and / or chemical techniques from the blue-green algae.
  • the formulations may be obtained by mechanical separation techniques from the blue-green algae constituents based on the utilization of mechanical forces, such as gravity, centrifugal force, pressure or vacuum. These include, for example, decanting, filtration, sedimentation, ultrafiltration and centrifuging.
  • preparations are used which are obtained by means of chemical separation methods, for example an extraction or a chromatographic method, from the blue-green algae constituents.
  • extracts are particularly preferred.
  • extraction agent for the preparation of said algae extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Blue-green extracts which are obtained by means of a water / propylene glycol mixture, have proven to be particularly suitable. It has proven to be particularly suitable if these extractants are used in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • extracts which have been at least partially decolorized before use may be preferred according to the invention to use extracts which have been at least partially decolorized before use. This can be done for example by using activated carbon. It is also possible to use in the inventive compositions as a blue-green extract, the aqueous rearing or culture solution of blue-green algae, which also enriched by specific, derived from the algae proteins, sugars, vitamins and trace elements. For this, the blue-green algae are separated from the culture solution by a physical separation method, such as filtration or centrifugation.
  • the composition contains an extract of a freshwater blue algae of the genus Spirulina.
  • the agent for color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers for further improving the care state of the keratinous fiber additionally contains at least one extract from a plant of the genus Aloe.
  • Aloe all naturally occurring plants belonging to the genus Aloe can be used.
  • Preferred species include aloe mutabilis, aloe melanocantha, aloe manchii, aloe pearsonii, aloe comptonii, aloe mitriformis, aloe distans, aloe arenicola, aloe volkensii, aloe petrophylla, aloe ferox, aloe africana, aloe globiligemma, aloe perry, aloe viscensii, aloe vera, aloe lettyae, aloe capensis, aloe barbadensis, aloe socetriis, aloe curacao, aloe candelabrum, aloe excelsa, aloe cameronii, aloe sessiliflora, aloe reitzii, aloe aculeate, aloe marloth
  • preparations which are obtained from Aloe capensis or Aloe barbadensis are particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred preparations according to the invention are those which are obtained from Aloe barbadensis, the so-called genuine aloe or else aloe vera.
  • both the leaves and the flowers and seeds of Aloe plants can serve as the basis for this preparation.
  • Preparations which are obtained from the leaves of the Aloe plants have proved to be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the preparation according to the invention is obtained from the plant constituents, in principle there are no restrictions.
  • the gel contained in the plants can be used directly in the form in which it occurs in violation of the aloe leaves.
  • preparations which are obtained from the plant by means of mechanical and / or chemical techniques.
  • the plant components can be mechanically comminuted in an optional first step.
  • mechanical comminution methods are called cutting, pureeing and crushing.
  • the preparations can then in a first embodiment are obtained by mechanical separation methods from the plant components based on the utilization of mechanical forces, such as gravity, centrifugal force, pressure or vacuum, such as decantation, filtration, sedimentation, ultrafiltration and centrifugation.
  • preparations are used which are obtained from the plant constituents by means of chemical separation methods, for example an extraction or a chromatographic method.
  • extracts are particularly preferred.
  • extractant for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols, esters and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol have proven to be particularly suitable. It has proven to be particularly suitable if these extractants are used in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • esters of short-chain carboxylic acids and short-chain alcohols include, for example, ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, ethyl propionate.
  • esters of long-chain, optionally branched fatty acids can be used.
  • isopropyl myristate has been found to be particularly suitable.
  • extracts which have been at least partially decolorized before use can be done for example by using activated carbon.
  • An extract of aloe plants which is particularly preferred according to the invention is an extract obtained from the leaves of aloe barbadensis in isopropyl myristate.
  • Such an extract is sold, for example, under the trade name Aloe Vera extract by the company Worlee, Hamburg.
  • the extract of the aloe is particularly advantageously used at from 0.1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • the coloring component is preferably selected
  • the color changing components are selected from oxidation dye precursors.
  • the oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one Oxidizer dye precursor of the developer type and / or coupler type included.
  • the colorants of the present invention contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or the sulfates.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6- Dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- Dipropyl p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) aniline, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (2-hydroxy) hydroxyethyl
  • Very particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives according to the invention are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N , N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 2-methoxymethyl p-phenylenediamine and the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • preferred binuclear developer components are selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propane 2-ol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis [4- (methylamino) phenyl] tetramethylenediamine, N, N'- Diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methan
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2 -hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10 Bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • p-amino phenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Particularly preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-ol hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxy-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2 -aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) aminomethyl] phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol
  • Very particularly preferred compounds are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • heterocyclic developer components such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly preferred pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetrahydaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4 , 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine.
  • Particularly preferred pyrazole derivatives are, in particular, the compounds selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole , 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-t-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-t-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl
  • pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines mention may be made in particular of: pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol; 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol; 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol; 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]
  • Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H- imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N
  • the developer components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component.
  • Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component.
  • Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups.
  • the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
  • Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected as at least one compound from one of the following classes: m-aminophenol and / or its derivatives; m-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives; o-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives; o-aminophenol derivatives such as o-aminophenol; Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group; Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or derivatives thereof; pyridine derivatives; pyrimidine derivatives; Monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives; Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives; Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one; Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine; Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline
  • Preferred m-aminophenol coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of m-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6- methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4- methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-diethylaminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5-methylaminobenzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and the physiologically acceptable salts of all the compounds mentioned above.
  • Preferred m-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ -amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol,
  • Preferred o-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and the physiologically acceptable salts of all of the aforementioned compounds.
  • Preferred di- or trihydroxybenzenes and their derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6 -methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6 -dimethoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine, and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • Preferred naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1 , 3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene.
  • Preferred indole derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • Preferred indoline derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from A-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2 -Amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2 methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3 Bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-bis) hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ (2-
  • the coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other.
  • a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand.
  • oxo dye precursors can also be used as the color-modifying component according to the invention. Oxofarbstoffvor consist are preferred as
  • Reactive carbonyl compounds as component (oxo1) have in the context of the invention at least one carbonyl group as a reactive group which reacts with the component (oxo2) to form a covalent bond.
  • Preferred reactive carbonyl compounds are selected from compounds which carry at least one formyl group and / or at least one keto group, in particular at least one formyl group.
  • Preferred reactive carbonyl compounds of the component (oxo1) are selected from the group consisting of benzaldehyde and its derivatives, naphthaldehyde and its derivatives, cinnamaldehyde and its derivatives, 2-formylmethylene-1,3,3-trimethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde), 2-indolaldehyde, 3-indolaldehyde, 1-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2- (1 ', 3', 3'-trimethyl-2-indolinylidene) acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2 aldehyde, pyridoxal, antipyrin-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5-nitrofurfural, chromone-3-aldehyde, 3- (5'-nitro-2'-furyl) acrolein, 3- (2'-fur
  • CH-acidic compounds are generally considered those compounds which carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents, activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected.
  • CH-acidic compounds there are no limits to the choice of CH-acidic compounds as long as a compound which is visibly colored visibly to the human eye is obtained after condensation with the reactive carbonyl compounds of the component (oxo1).
  • the CH-acidic compounds of the oxo dye precursors of the component (oxo2a) are most preferably selected from at least one compound of the group consisting of 2- (2-furoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-bromo-2-furoyl) acetonitrile, 3 (2,5-Dimethyl-3-furyl) -3-oxopropanitrile, 2- (2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (3-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-fluoro-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- 5-chloro-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-bromo-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (5-methyl-2-thenoyl) acetonitrile, 2- (2,5-dimethylpyrrol-3-oyl ) acetonitrile, 2- (1, 2,5-trimethylpyrrol-3-oyl)
  • component (Oxo2b) at least one oxidation dye precursor having at least one primary or secondary amino group and / or at least one hydroxyl group can be used. Preferred suitable representatives are found under the execution of the oxidation dye precursors. However, it is preferred according to the invention if the compounds of the component (oxo2) are selected only among CH-acidic compounds.
  • the above-mentioned compounds of the component (Oxo1) and the component (Oxo2) are, when used, each preferably in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total composition , used.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain as color-changing component at least one substantive dye.
  • these are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are FD & C Yellow No. Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 73, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Pigment Red 57: 1, FD & C Red no. 4 Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Brown 13, Acid Blue. Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Black no. 1 and bromophenol blue.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.
  • cationic substantive dyes are especially Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7,
  • Basic Blue 8 Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, 1 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) 2-naphthol chloride, Basic Brown 17, Basic Orange 69, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 2, Basic Yellow 1 1, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Green 1, Basic Green 4, 1- ( 2-morpholiniumpropylamino) -4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone methylsulfate, 1 - [(3- (dimethylpropylaminium) -propyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone chloride and direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as they are mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908.
  • the compounds known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes.
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Suitable blue nitro dyes are, in particular, 1,4-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 6, HC Blue 9, HC Blue 10, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 13, HC Violet 1, HC Violet 2, 1- (2-aminoethylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 4- (di- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2- nitro-1-phenylaminobenzol.
  • Suitable red nitro dyes are, in particular, HC Red 7, 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol and salts thereof, 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, 1-amino-4 - [(2 hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, HC Red 3, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) methylamino] -1- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - [(2,3 -dihydroxypropyl) amino] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitro-1 - [(prop-2-ene-1 yl) amino] benzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol, HC Orange 1, HC Orange 2, HC Orange 3, HC Red 10,
  • Suitable quinone dyes are in particular: 1,4-di - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, Disperse Blue 23, Disperse Blue 3, HC Orange 5, Disperse Red 15, 1-hydroxy-4- [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, Natural Red 4, HC Blue 8, HC Red 8, Disperse Red 11, Disperse Blue 7, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, 2-Hydroxy 3-methoxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone, 2,5-dihydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, HC Red 9, HC Green 1, Natural Brown 7, Natural Orange 6, 1, 2-dihydro-2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) -3H-indol-3-one, 4
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those referred to as HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1, 4- Diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2- Hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene , 4-amino-3-nitrophenol,
  • natural dyes can also be used as substantive dyes.
  • natural dyes in the context of the invention are dyes to be understood, which are obtained from parts of plants.
  • the agents obtained from the plant parts represent dyes as such, but that they optionally also represent dye precursors which form the actual dye by subsequent chemical reactions. Mentioned here in particular the oxidation with atmospheric oxygen to form the chromophore.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one natural dye selected from the group comprising diaryloylmethane dyes, naphthoquinone dyes, flavonoid dyes, anthraquinone dyes, betalain dyes, gallotannin dyes and indigoid dyes.
  • Particularly preferred natural dyes according to the present invention are those obtained from a plant selected from the group consisting of Indigofera tinctoria, Curcuma longa, Lawsonia inermis, Chamomilla recutita, Quercus robur, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rheum undulatum and Beta vulgaris.
  • the natural dyes are each preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the entire application preparation used.
  • the total amount of natural dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.
  • the color-modifying component is selected from dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
  • the dyestuff precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably indoles and indolines which have at least two groups selected from hydroxy and / or amino groups, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Compositions according to the invention which comprise precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably used as air-oxidative colorants.
  • compositions are not added with an additional oxidizing agent.
  • the dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are each preferably used in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 3% by weight.
  • Preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.
  • Preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole , 5,6-Dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.
  • oxidation dye precursors, oxo dye precursors, substantive dyes or naturally-analogous dyes it is not necessary for oxidation dye precursors, oxo dye precursors, substantive dyes or naturally-analogous dyes to be each one of the same compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.
  • oxidative dyeings the development of the color can in principle be done with atmospheric oxygen.
  • a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired. This lightening effect may be desired regardless of the staining method.
  • Suitable oxidizing agents are persulfates, peroxodisulfates, chlorites, hypochlorites and, in particular, hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine and sodium borate.
  • Hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as oxidizing agent.
  • the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 6% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • Such oxidizer formulations are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizer formulations.
  • Preferred preparations are characterized in that the flowable oxidizing agent preparation - based on their weight - 40 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 85 wt .-%, particularly preferably 55 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 77, 5 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 wt .-% water.
  • the oxidation colorant can be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which inhibits the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • a catalyst which inhibits the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • Such catalysts are z.
  • Suitable enzymes are z.
  • peroxidases which can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide.
  • Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of the dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, for. Pyranose oxidase, glucose oxidase, glycerol oxidase, pyruvate oxidase, alcohol oxidase, lactate oxidase, tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine, uricase, choline oxidase, amino acid oxidase.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Ce 4+ , V 3+ , Co 2+ , Ru 3+ and Al 3+ , especially Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • Particularly preferred agents contain these metal ions to 0.0001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the actual hair dye is expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing the preparation of the oxidizing agent with the preparation containing the dye precursors and the active compounds according to the invention.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 12. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium.
  • the application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 0 C.
  • the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, such as a dyeing shampoo was used.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain blonding and / or bleaching agents and thus be provided as agents which simultaneously have a coloring and lightening effect.
  • agents will hereinafter be referred to as “colorants”, as “whitening colorants” or as “colorants and whiteners”.
  • the colorant according to the invention additionally contains at least one inorganic persulfate salt or peroxodisulfate salt in the agent for lightening the keratinic fibers.
  • Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the peroxodisulfate salts may be contained in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular in an amount of from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the use of persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts is generally carried out in the form of an optionally dedusted powder or a molding pressed into the mold.
  • the actual coloring and / or brightening agent is expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing a preparation according to the invention comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor in a cosmetic carrier and a preparation containing the additional oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide ,
  • the agent according to the invention may contain a blue-green algae extract in the preparation with oxidation dye precursors and / or in the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the preparation with oxidation dye precursors preferably contains the blue-green algae extract.
  • a bleaching preparation containing at least one inorganic persulfate salt or peroxodisulfate salt is added to the oxidizing agent preparation before mixing with the dyeing preparation according to the invention.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
  • Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid.
  • Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polyoxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acids or their alkali metal salts.
  • Complex-forming polymers, ie polymers which carry functional groups either in the main chain themselves or in the side thereof, which can act as ligands and generally react with suitable metal atoms to form chelate complexes can be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred complexing agents according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA, and phosphonates, preferably hydroxyalkane or aminoalkanophosphonates and in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) or its di- or tetrasodium salt and / or ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) or .
  • HEDP 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate
  • EDTMP ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate
  • DTPMP Diethylentriaminpentamethylenphosphonat
  • the preparation of the colorant according to the invention is subject in principle no restrictions.
  • the agents according to the invention are formulated as 1-component agents, which are optionally mixed with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent immediately before use.
  • a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent immediately before use.
  • the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately. According to the invention, it does not initially matter which of the three components according to the invention is packaged separately; however, it may be preferable to separately package the preparation (B) containing blue-green leaf extract until use.
  • the oxidizing agent preparation contains besides the actual oxidizing agent further auxiliaries and additives. Thus, it has proved to be preferred according to the invention if the oxidizing agent preparation contains at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.
  • the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer such as Aculyn ® 33; Aculyn ® 22: Structure ® Structure ® 2001 and 3001 or Stabileze® ® QM.
  • the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer such as Polyquaternium-37.
  • naturally occurring thickening agents are used.
  • Preferred thickening agents of this embodiment are for example nonionic, modified and unmodified guar gums, Biosaccharidgums microbial origin, dextrins, cellulose derivatives (such as Cellosize ®, Natrosol ®, Blanose ®, Aquasorb ®, amber gum ® and Cellgon ®; from Montello). Starch and its derivatives are also preferred.
  • nonionic, fully synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl pyrrolidinone, are as thickening agents according to the invention can be used.
  • nonionic polymers in addition to their excellent thickening properties, also allow a significant improvement in the sensory feeling of the resulting preparations.
  • phyllosilicates polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates
  • Clays in particular magnesium aluminum silicates, such as bentonite, especially
  • Smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally be modified also suitable, and synthetic layered silicates, such as the chemical sold by the company Süd under the trademark Optigel ® magnesium phyllosilicate are preferred.
  • the preparation of the colorant according to the invention is subject in principle no restrictions.
  • the agents according to the invention are formulated as 1-component agents, which are optionally mixed with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent immediately before use.
  • a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent immediately before use.
  • the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately.
  • the agents according to the invention are permanently shape-changing agents. These agents usually consist of two or three preparations, which are successively applied to the fibers. The following terms are used below:
  • the blue-green algae extract according to the invention can in principle be used in any of the aforementioned preparations, it has proven to be particularly preferred according to the invention if it is contained in the corrugating medium.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention necessarily contain at least one keratin-reducing substance as a shape-changing component, preferably mercaptans.
  • a shape-changing component preferably mercaptans.
  • Such compounds are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters, cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid.
  • suitable as shape-changing components are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid and the free acids.
  • the corrugating agents according to the invention usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.
  • the Wellothen invention may contain components that enhance the power, such as
  • Heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine and derivatives of these compounds.
  • Imidazole derivatives are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. This is very particularly preferred
  • Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine.
  • Diols such as 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol.
  • 1, 3-diols, especially 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol and 1, 3-butanediol, have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • the wellenverstärverEntnden compounds may be present in the corrugated lotions according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total wave lotion. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of the diols of 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.
  • oxidizing agents for.
  • the pH of such aqueous H 2 O 2 preparations which usually contain about 0.5 to 15% by weight, usually about 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H 2 O 2 , is preferably included 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4; it is adjusted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid.
  • Bromate-based fixatives are usually used in concentrations of from 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7.
  • suitable are enzymatic-based fixatives for example peroxidases which contain no or only small amounts of oxidizing agents, in particular H 2 O 2 .
  • corrugating agents or fixing agents according to the invention are usually formulated in a single phase, including by this term are systems which have a continuous phase, such as, for example, pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.
  • the ready-to-use agent has a pH between 4.0 and 9.0, preferably between 5.0 and 8.5, particularly preferably between 6.0 and 8.0.
  • the pH values for the purposes of the present invention are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids.
  • alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 1-amino-2-propanol. ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol. Very particular preference is given to 2-aminoethane-1-ol, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • a preferred embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the agent is low in ammonia, preferably free of ammonia.
  • low ammonia and “ammonia-free” in the context of the invention refer to the amount of ammonia added to the agent, the addition of ammonia take place both as an aqueous, alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or other solution and by ammonia gas or by the addition of liquefied ammonia can.
  • the addition of ammonia can also be effected by using ammonium salts, the ammonium cation being in equilibrium with its corresponding base, the ammonia itself, depending on the pH of the preparation.
  • free of ammonia” or “low in ammonia” in the context of the invention therefore also refer to agents which contain ammonium salts in the corresponding amounts.
  • low-ammonia agents contain less than 2 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-% and most preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% of added ammonia, each based on the total weight of the application preparation.
  • Ammonia-free in the context of the invention are those agents to which no ammonia has been added by one of the methods described above. Such agents are most preferred.
  • the agents additionally contain at least one further active substance which synergistically improves the care properties of the agents.
  • This active substance is preferably selected from the group which is formed from d) amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates; c2) silicone derivatives; c3)
  • the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one further active ingredient selected from the group consisting of amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates.
  • active ingredient refers to amino acids themselves and their oligomers and polymers linked via peptical bonds, in particular oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates.
  • An amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which carries in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group.
  • Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and ⁇ -amino-carboxylic acids, ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids being preferred.
  • Amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolyzates usually contain asymmetric centers in their structure, in particular carbon atoms as chiral centers.
  • amino acids, oligopeptides and / or protein hydrolyzates as chiral pure substances or else as mixtures of enantiomers and / or diastereomers.
  • racemic mixtures ie mixtures in which both enantiomers of a compound are contained in equal proportions, may be preferred.
  • an enantiomeric form usually predominates. It may therefore also be preferred to use amino acids, oligopeptides and / or protein hydrolysates in their naturally occurring or even in their unnatural chiral configuration.
  • Oligopeptides are available either from natural sources or through targeted synthesis. The person skilled in the art knows these methods and will know how to select the suitable one as needed.
  • a particularly preferred oligopeptide is the dimer of serine itself (Ser-Ser), especially L-serine, and threonine and serine (Thr-Ser and / or Ser-Thr).
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • the proteins are broken down by hydrolysis of peptic bonds into low molecular weight fractions.
  • alkaline, acidic or enzymatic hydrolysis methods can be used, which provide structurally different hydrolysates and are applied to the requirements of the hydrolysates. The person skilled in these methods are familiar.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks keratin DEC ® (Vincience) Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co) distributed Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda).
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg.
  • Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates can be present as mixtures of different components with different numbers of peptic bonds, different amino acid sequences and different molecular weights and can be used in the agents according to the invention.
  • amino acids are used as predominant pure substances.
  • Particularly advantageous color-changing agents according to the invention comprise as additional active ingredient at least one amino acid which is selected from L-serine, D-serine, D / L-serine (racemat), L-homoserine, D-homoserine, D / L-homoserine , L-threonine, D-threonine, D / L-threonine, A-hydroxy-proline, 5-hydroxy-lysine, L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine, L-ornithine, D-ornithine, D / L-ornithine, L-histidine, D-histidine and D / L-histidine and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Very particularly preferred according to the invention is L-serine.
  • amino acids, oligopeptides and / or protein hydrolysates may preferably be added to the compositions according to the invention in free form. In a number of cases, however, it is also advantageous to use in particular the amino acids in salt form.
  • Preferred salts are then the compounds with hydrohalic acids or sulfuric acid, in particular the hydrochlorides, the hydrobromides and the sulfates.
  • the active ingredient of at least one amino acid, an oligopeptide or a protein hydrolyzate is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the application mixture, contain.
  • the silicone derivatives c2) when present in the agents according to the invention, are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, in each case to the ready-to-use agent.
  • the silicones c2) are selected from at least one member of the list formed from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
  • Cationic silicone oils are suitable according to the invention, for example the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 7113 (Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80.).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one aminofunctional silicone, which is referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicone according to the INCI declaration and is obtainable, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
  • compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone which, according to the INCI declaration, is known as amodimethicones or as functionalized amodimethicones, for example bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone (for example DC 8500, Dow Corning), trideceth- 9 PG amido-methicones (for example Silcare Silicone SEA, Clariant).
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on their weight, of amino-functional ( s) silicone (s), in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agents.
  • the cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products marketed under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and Dow Corning (Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193).
  • Polyphenols c3) are generally compounds which contain more than two phenol (polyol) or phenolic ether groups belonging to different substance classes.
  • the polyphenols are preferably selected from at least one member of the group formed from: c3-1) hydroxycinnamic acids, c3-2) 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, c3-3) hydroxybenzoic acids, c3-4) catechins, c3-5) Leucoanthocyanidins, c3-6) anthocyanidins, c3-7) flavanones and c3-8) flavones and c3-9) flavonols.
  • free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives.
  • Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid.
  • Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechols, that is, the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is, the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins, preferably in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5'-position phenolic hydroxy groups carry, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, and the resulting by self-condensation tannins.
  • Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho and oak bark as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.
  • the sphingolipids are preferably used.
  • preferred compounds according to the invention are the compounds ceramides I, ceramides II, ceramides 1, ceramides 2, ceramides 3, ceramides 5 and ceramides 6 known under the INCI names as the active ingredient.
  • Mixtures of the compounds of formula (VI) are particularly preferably used, which are obtainable for example under the trade name of SK-Influx ® and Ceramide IM (Degussa Care Specialties), and the commercial product Ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Int.
  • the compounds of the formula (VI) are preferably used in an amount of from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic product.
  • pseodoceramides in particular the pseudoceramide N- (C 8 -C 22 -acyl) - (C 8 -C 22 -acyl) hydroxyproline (such as, for example, the cetyl-hydroxyproline palmitamide according to the product Sym Repair 153884 from Symrise), are pseudoceramides c4 according to the invention ).
  • the ready-to-use colorants preferably comprise free-flowing preparations.
  • the free-flowing preparations additionally contain as surface-active substance an emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of application, and anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers are selected.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, anionic polymers; hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins and silicone oils; Perfume oils, cyclodextrins; fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; Defoamers such as silicones, preferably dimethicone; Dyes and pigments for staining the agent; Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines; Active substances such as panthenol, pantothenic hair
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers and wherein a container is a colorant, which in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and having a pH of between 5.0 and 8.5, preferably between 6.0 and 8.0, and another container containing an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least an oxidizing agent.
  • a container is a colorant, which in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and having a pH of between 5.0 and 8.5, preferably between 6.0 and 8.0, and another container containing an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least an oxidizing agent.
  • a second subject of the present invention is a process for the color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to the hair according to the above specifications, for an exposure time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes the hair is left, and then the hair is rinsed out.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for color-changing keratinous fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation containing hydrogen peroxide to form a homogeneous composition,
  • a composition in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation containing hydrogen peroxide to form a homogeneous composition
  • This is applied to the hair, is left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the hair is rinsed.
  • the application temperatures for the inventive color change of keratinic fibers may be in a range between 15 and 45 0 C.
  • the hair dye is removed by rinsing the hair to be dyed.
  • the washing with a shampoo can
  • a further preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for permanently modifying keratinous fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one keratin-reducing substance and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, is applied to the hair for a contact time from 2 to 45 minutes, preferably from 15 to 30 minutes is left on the hair, and then optionally the hair is rinsed out. Subsequently, a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and preferably additionally at least one stabilizer or complexing agent, applied to the hair, left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the Hair is rinsed out.
  • a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and preferably additionally at least one stabilizer or complexing agent, applied to the hair, left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 15 to 30 minutes, and then the Hair is rinsed
  • the application temperatures in the permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ° C.
  • the fixative is removed by rinsing off the hair.
  • the washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • compositions according to the invention can also be prepared directly before use from two or more separately packaged preparations. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction. Separation into multicomponent systems is particularly suitable where incompatibilities of the ingredients are to be expected or to be feared.
  • the ready-to-use agent in such systems is blended by the consumer just prior to application made of components.
  • a fourth subject of the present invention is therefore a multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separately assembled containers, wherein a container at least one container a color and / or shape-changing compound, and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from Genus spirulina ,, and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide
  • a preferred embodiment of this subject matter of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separate prefabricated containers, one container comprising a coloring mixture in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one coloring component, in particular at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one Blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • kit-of-parts containing at least two separate prefabricated containers, one container comprising a coloring mixture in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one coloring component, in particular at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one Blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • the multicomponent packaging unit according to the invention (kit-of-parts) in the form of an optionally dedusted powder or a shaped article pressed in the form of an additional, separately packaged component to add.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) comprising at least two separate prefabricated containers, one container comprising a shape-change mixture in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one shape-modifying component and at least one blue-green algae extract, preferably from the genus Spirulina, and a container an oxidizer composition, containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • the multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) preferably additionally contains an instruction manual.
  • an application aid such as a comb or a brush
  • personal protective equipment such as disposable gloves
  • Another object of the invention is the use of the means of the first subject of the invention for improving the gloss of the hair in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of ung the means of the first subject of the invention for improving the moisture content of the hair in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of the means of the first subject of the invention for simultaneous protection against damage in the hair structure and on the hair surface in the color and / or permanent shape change of human hair.
  • Another object of the invention is finally the use of the means of the first subject of the invention for the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair with reduced damage to the hair.
  • a coloring cream of the invention was prepared from the following ingredients:
  • the dyeing cream was mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with a developer dispersion composed as follows.
  • the mixing pH was 7.2.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit de coloration et/ou de déformation permanente des fibres kératiniques. Le produit selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il contient dans un véhicule cosmétique au moins un constituant pour la coloration et/ou la déformation, ainsi qu'un extrait d'algue bleue.
EP09782549A 2008-09-11 2009-09-03 Produit de traitement capillaire à extrait de spirulina Withdrawn EP2320868A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102008046883A DE102008046883A1 (de) 2008-09-11 2008-09-11 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Spirulina-Extrakt
PCT/EP2009/061388 WO2010029005A2 (fr) 2008-09-11 2009-09-03 Produit de traitement capillaire à extrait de spirulina

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EP2320868A2 true EP2320868A2 (fr) 2011-05-18

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JP (1) JP2012502078A (fr)
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WO (1) WO2010029005A2 (fr)

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FR2974011B1 (fr) * 2011-06-28 2013-07-12 Louisa Zaaboub Encres capillaire reparatrice
JP5881990B2 (ja) * 2011-07-27 2016-03-09 株式会社Ｆｒａｓｃｏ パーマネントウェーブの施術方法
JP2017007988A (ja) * 2015-06-24 2017-01-12 ラキュラム株式会社 リラックス用香料組成物
GB201617908D0 (en) * 2016-10-24 2016-12-07 Cosmetic Warriors Ltd Composition
DE102021200031A1 (de) * 2021-01-05 2022-07-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zur oxidativen Farbveränderung von keratinischen Fasern mit Komplexbildner, Aktivator und Oxidationsmittel

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WO2010029005A2 (fr) 2010-03-18
JP2012502078A (ja) 2012-01-26
WO2010029005A3 (fr) 2010-07-15

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