EP1512765A1 - Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie résistant à la décoloration - Google Patents
Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie résistant à la décoloration Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP1512765A1 EP1512765A1 EP03405645A EP03405645A EP1512765A1 EP 1512765 A1 EP1512765 A1 EP 1512765A1 EP 03405645 A EP03405645 A EP 03405645A EP 03405645 A EP03405645 A EP 03405645A EP 1512765 A1 EP1512765 A1 EP 1512765A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- alloy
- jewelery
- copper
- gold
- color
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C22—METALLURGY; FERROUS OR NON-FERROUS ALLOYS; TREATMENT OF ALLOYS OR NON-FERROUS METALS
- C22C—ALLOYS
- C22C5/00—Alloys based on noble metals
- C22C5/02—Alloys based on gold
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
- A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
- A44C27/002—Metallic materials
- A44C27/003—Metallic alloys
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G04—HOROLOGY
- G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
- G04B37/00—Cases
- G04B37/22—Materials or processes of manufacturing pocket watch or wrist watch cases
Definitions
- the invention relates to a coin of timepieces, jewelery or manufactured jewelery in an alloy comprising by weight at least 75% of gold and at least 6% copper.
- the color of such gold alloys depends on their copper and silver grades. A copper content greater than 18% and a silver content of around 4% gives them a red color. The color evolves towards the pink then to yellow if the copper content decreases 18% to 15% then 15% to 6% and if the silver content increases from 4% to 15%.
- the color is defined so conventional by a point of CIELAB space formed of a green-red axis on the abscissa, a blue-yellow axis in ordered and an axis representative of the contrast (cf. ISO 7724 standard established by the International Commission Lighting).
- the colors of the gold alloys are defined in the tri-chromatic space according to the ISO standard 8654.
- enclosures or watch bracelets made in these gold alloys usually tended to change of their color under the action of the water of the faucet, sea water, water pools, water salty or soapy water.
- the specialized literature reports an accelerated tarnishing study performed on an alloy intended for the manufacture of jewelery pieces and comprising 75% gold, 12% copper and 12% silver.
- the tests take place in the gas phase or in the liquid phase. Tarnishing is quantitatively determined by the color difference of the alloy before and after the test.
- the reactants in contact with which the alloy is exposed comprise essentially pure sulfur or sulfur compounds.
- the tarnishing observed is attributed to the formation of silver sulphide Ag 2 S. (See “Tarnishing of AuAgCu alloys", 43, pp. 48-55, 1992, Werkstoffe und Korrosion ).
- a timepiece, jewelery or of jewelery made of an alloy comprising minus 75% gold and between 15% and 23% copper is known of Japanese Patent Application JP 10245646 published in 1998.
- the alloy also comprises between 0.3% and 5% of palladium to present greater resistance to the cracking during molding of the part.
- One of the aims of the invention is to improve the resistance to a color change of a room of timepieces, jewelery or manufactured jewelery in a gold alloy and subjected, in use, to weakly aggressive aqueous media.
- the subject of the invention is a part of timepieces, jewelery or manufactured jewelery in an alloy comprising by weight at least 75% of gold and at least 6% copper, characterized in that the alloy also comprises between 0.5% and 4% platinum.
- the platinum content makes it possible to increase resistance to a change in the color of the room subjected to the action of tap water, sea water, swimming pool water, salt water or water soap.
- the timepiece, jewelery or jewelery is made of an alloy comprising in addition to 4% or less of palladium to enhance the effect of resistance to a color change. It is by example the case for a yellow-colored alloy comprising between 6% and 15% copper.
- Figure 1 shows two experimental curves of discoloration obtained respectively on a red alloy according to the invention, curve (b), and on a 5N red alloy according to the prior art, curve (a).
- Figures 2a and 2b show two profiles of concentration obtained respectively on both alloys having undergone the fading test illustrated by Figure 1.
- Table I reports test results from discoloration obtained on different alloys according to the invention.
- a reference alloy 5N of red color including 75% gold, 21.5% copper and 4.5% silver is subjected to a fading test.
- the alloy is immersed in a neutral solution saturated with sodium chloride to a temperature of 40 degrees C for several dozens of days.
- the color is measured according to the standard ISO 7724.
- the kinetics of discoloration is illustrated by the curve (a) of Figure 1.
- the abscissa the immersion time in days and ordinates, the standard of ⁇ Elab vector connecting the representative points of the color of the alloy in CIELAB space, between the initial moment and the different immersion times. Compared to the time range explored, discoloration appears continuous and monotonous with immersion time.
- a red colored alloy comprising according to the invention 76% gold, 21% copper and 3% platinum is tested under the same conditions as those of the alloy reference.
- the kinetics of discoloration is illustrated by the curve (b).
- the latter shows that the standard of vector connecting points representative of color of the alloy according to the invention between the initial moment and the different immersion times is less than he is for the reference alloy without platinum. In other words, the presence of platinum increased the resistance to discoloration of the alloy according to the invention.
- a factor improvement by the ratio between the modifications of color of the reference alloy and alloy according to the invention, considered after the same duration immersion. In this case, the factor improvement is about 3 after a time 60 days immersion.
- Figures 2a and 2b show the profiles of concentration obtained respectively on the 5N alloy of reference and on the alloy according to the invention, after 60 days of immersion in the test solution.
- FIG. decrease in copper concentration in proportion to that of gold on a depth of matter included between the first 10 and the first 20 nanometers as well that maintaining the concentration of money on this same depth.
- concentration copper in proportion to that of gold decreases less strongly and less deeply for the alloy according to the invention.
- Table I reports the results of the test of discoloration performed on different alloys compositions numbered from 1 to 15.
- a row of the table indicates the content of the alloy in gold, copper, platinum and palladium and the limit value of discoloration ⁇ ELab and the fading enhancement factor after a 60-day immersion test.
- Conditions experimental are identical to those experienced previously: immersion in a saturated solution of sodium chloride at neutral pH and at a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius.
- compositions are referenced from 15 to 9 in Table I evidence of a factor for improving resistance to the discoloration typically between 2 and 4.
- alloys whose compositions are referenced from 7 to 3 in the Table I show an improvement factor at most equal to 1.
- the improvement factor depends on the content weight of copper in the alloys according to the invention. This content is preferably between 15% and 18%. More preferably, it is greater than 18% and more particularly between 20% and 22% for a platinum content between 1.5% and 3%.
- platinum content between 0.5% and 4% confers on timepieces, jewelery or jewelery according to the invention color that it was impossible to get up to present. While copper has a blushing effect and money a greening effect, platinum has an effect whitening.
- platinum or palladium to the grayish effect allows to gradually move warm, discreet and velvety colors for lowest grades to more technical colors and colder for the higher grades.
- a timepiece, jewelery or jewelery made of an alloy comprising by weight at least 75% gold, between 20% and 22% of copper, between 1.5% and 3% of platinum and not more than 0,5% of any of the elements selected from silver, cadmium, chromium, cobalt, iron, indium, manganese, nickel or zinc has a color nominal having in space CIELAB, an equal abscissa at 7,41 along the green-red axis, an ordinate equal to 15.67 along the blue-yellow axis and a value of contrast equal to 86.75.
- these coordinates may vary between 5.71 and 8.51 along the green-red axis and between 13.67 and 16.67 according to the blue-yellow axis for a value of contrast L varying between 76.75 and 96, 75.
- the invention applies to any room timepieces, jewelery or jewelery manufactured in from an alloy according to the usual methods like machining or lost wax casting.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Metallurgy (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Adornments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims (6)
- Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie, fabriquée dans un alliage comprenant en poids au moins 75% d'or et au moins 6% de cuivre, caractérisée en ce que l'alliage comprend également entre 0,5% et 4% de platine.
- Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'alliage comprend au moins 18% de cuivre.
- Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que l'alliage comprend entre 20% et 22% de cuivre et entre 1,5% et 3% de platine.
- Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'alliage comprend entre 15% et 18% de cuivre.
- Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'alliage comprend entre 6% et 15% de cuivre et au plus 4% de palladium.
- Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que l'alliage comprend en poids au plus 0,5% de l'un quelconque des éléments choisis parmi l'argent, le cadmium, le chrome, le cobalt, le fer, l'indium, le manganèse, le nickel ou le zinc.
Priority Applications (7)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE03405645T DE03405645T1 (de) | 2003-09-04 | 2003-09-04 | Entfärbungsbeständige Uhr oder Schmuck |
EP03405645A EP1512765B1 (fr) | 2003-09-04 | 2003-09-04 | Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie résistant à la décoloration |
DE60310555T DE60310555T2 (de) | 2003-09-04 | 2003-09-04 | Entfärbungsbestängdige Uhr oder Schmuck |
US10/916,853 US7311876B2 (en) | 2003-09-04 | 2004-08-12 | Discoloration-resistant timepiece or jewelry part |
JP2004252708A JP4813028B2 (ja) | 2003-09-04 | 2004-08-31 | 耐変色性時計又は貴金属装飾部品 |
EP04104165A EP1512766A1 (fr) | 2003-09-04 | 2004-08-31 | Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie résistant à la décoloration |
CNB2004100751416A CN100344780C (zh) | 2003-09-04 | 2004-09-03 | 耐变色性的时计或珠宝部件 |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP03405645A EP1512765B1 (fr) | 2003-09-04 | 2003-09-04 | Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie résistant à la décoloration |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1512765A1 true EP1512765A1 (fr) | 2005-03-09 |
EP1512765B1 EP1512765B1 (fr) | 2006-12-20 |
Family
ID=34130407
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP03405645A Expired - Lifetime EP1512765B1 (fr) | 2003-09-04 | 2003-09-04 | Pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie résistant à la décoloration |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US7311876B2 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP1512765B1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP4813028B2 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN100344780C (fr) |
DE (2) | DE60310555T2 (fr) |
Cited By (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2893813A1 (fr) * | 2006-04-26 | 2007-05-25 | Samsung Electro Mech | Substrat conducteur, moteur, moteur a vibrations et borne metallique pour contact electrique ayant une couche d'or et de cuivre. |
DE202011102731U1 (de) | 2011-06-08 | 2011-12-05 | C. Hafner Gmbh + Co. Kg | Goldlegierung |
WO2014087216A1 (fr) | 2012-12-03 | 2014-06-12 | Argor-Heraeus Sa | Alliage d'or résistant à la décoloration |
CH714786A1 (it) * | 2018-03-15 | 2019-09-30 | Argor Heraeus Sa | Lega d'oro con colore compatibile allo standard 5N e metodo di produzione della medesima. |
EP3812477B1 (fr) * | 2019-10-21 | 2023-01-11 | Richemont International SA | Alliage métallique comprenant de l'or |
Families Citing this family (18)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN101784897A (zh) * | 2007-05-23 | 2010-07-21 | 应用生物系统有限公司 | 通过从活化的化学发光的基质将能量转移至能量受体染料来检测生物分子的试剂、试剂盒和方法 |
CN101629253B (zh) * | 2009-07-29 | 2010-08-18 | 深圳市金福珠宝首饰有限公司 | 一种金合金及其制备方法 |
DE102010026930A1 (de) * | 2010-07-12 | 2012-01-12 | C. Hafner Gmbh + Co. Kg | Ideal-weiße, anlaufbeständige Edelmetall-Schmucklegierung |
CN107604195A (zh) * | 2011-11-08 | 2018-01-19 | 斯沃奇集团研究和开发有限公司 | 金制钟表或首饰 |
JP2016513176A (ja) * | 2013-02-06 | 2016-05-12 | ロレックス・ソシエテ・アノニムRolex Sa | ローズゴールド合金から作成される時計 |
JP6206872B2 (ja) * | 2013-08-30 | 2017-10-04 | 国立大学法人東京工業大学 | 超弾性合金 |
CN104046829A (zh) * | 2014-06-27 | 2014-09-17 | 张家港市佳威机械有限公司 | 一种首饰金基合金 |
EP3106930A1 (fr) * | 2015-06-16 | 2016-12-21 | Nivarox-FAR S.A. | Procédé de fabrication comportant une étape d'usinage modifiée |
EP3571325A4 (fr) * | 2017-03-27 | 2020-11-18 | Pethe, Subodh | Alliage d'or dur contenant du zirconium, du titane et du magnésium pour la fabrication de bijoux |
CH714785B1 (it) | 2018-03-15 | 2022-05-13 | Argor Heraeus Sa | Lega d'oro resistente alla decolorazione e metodo di produzione della medesima. |
CN109022890A (zh) * | 2018-09-20 | 2018-12-18 | 张家港市勇峰精密机械有限公司 | 一种耐腐蚀金基精密五金材料 |
CH716501A1 (fr) * | 2019-08-15 | 2021-02-15 | Mft Dhorlogerie Audemars Piguet Sa | Matériau composite, composant hétérogène pour pièce d'horlogerie et procédé de fabrication. |
CN110468298B (zh) * | 2019-09-19 | 2020-08-18 | 深圳市罗斯高德贵金属新材料股份有限公司 | 用于首饰和钟表行业的淡蓝色金合金的制备方法 |
DE102020121225A1 (de) | 2020-08-12 | 2022-02-17 | Egf - Eduard G. Fidel Gmbh | Schmuckkörper |
DE102020132870A1 (de) | 2020-12-09 | 2022-06-09 | Egf - Eduard G. Fidel Gmbh | Schmuckkörper |
US11268174B1 (en) * | 2021-06-10 | 2022-03-08 | Chow Sang Sang Jewellery Company Limited | Jewelry alloy |
EP4257265A1 (fr) * | 2022-04-06 | 2023-10-11 | Patek Philippe SA Genève | Procédé de fabrication d'un composant horloger ou de bijouterie et ledit composant horloger ou de bijouterie |
CN115896527B (zh) * | 2022-12-16 | 2024-05-03 | 深圳市华悦珠宝科技有限公司 | 一种16k金、弹簧的制作方法、弹簧及首饰 |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CH219711A (de) * | 1939-07-20 | 1942-02-28 | Degussa | Legierung für zahntechnische Zwecke. |
GB2279662A (en) * | 1993-07-10 | 1995-01-11 | Cookson Precious Metals Limite | Gold alloy |
DE19958800A1 (de) * | 1999-06-30 | 2001-01-04 | Wieland Edelmetalle | Weißgold-Schmucklegierung |
Family Cites Families (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS54132425A (en) | 1978-04-06 | 1979-10-15 | Ishifuku Metal Ind | Gold alloy |
JPH08325656A (ja) * | 1995-06-01 | 1996-12-10 | Kuwayama Kikinzoku:Kk | 装飾用ピンク系金合金 |
JPH09184033A (ja) * | 1996-01-08 | 1997-07-15 | Tanaka Kikinzoku Kogyo Kk | ホワイト・ゴールド合金 |
JPH10245646A (ja) * | 1997-03-07 | 1998-09-14 | Seiko Epson Corp | 金合金、装飾部材、携帯時計及び装飾部材の製造方法 |
EP0904765A2 (fr) * | 1997-09-25 | 1999-03-31 | Ivoclar Ag | Alliage dentaire de couleur d'or |
JP3548797B2 (ja) * | 2000-12-25 | 2004-07-28 | 独立行政法人産業技術総合研究所 | 緑色の金合金宝飾品の製造方法とその製品 |
ATE466115T1 (de) | 2001-01-26 | 2010-05-15 | Metalor Technologies Int | Graue goldlegierung |
-
2003
- 2003-09-04 DE DE60310555T patent/DE60310555T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2003-09-04 DE DE03405645T patent/DE03405645T1/de active Pending
- 2003-09-04 EP EP03405645A patent/EP1512765B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
-
2004
- 2004-08-12 US US10/916,853 patent/US7311876B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2004-08-31 JP JP2004252708A patent/JP4813028B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2004-09-03 CN CNB2004100751416A patent/CN100344780C/zh not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CH219711A (de) * | 1939-07-20 | 1942-02-28 | Degussa | Legierung für zahntechnische Zwecke. |
GB2279662A (en) * | 1993-07-10 | 1995-01-11 | Cookson Precious Metals Limite | Gold alloy |
DE19958800A1 (de) * | 1999-06-30 | 2001-01-04 | Wieland Edelmetalle | Weißgold-Schmucklegierung |
Cited By (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2893813A1 (fr) * | 2006-04-26 | 2007-05-25 | Samsung Electro Mech | Substrat conducteur, moteur, moteur a vibrations et borne metallique pour contact electrique ayant une couche d'or et de cuivre. |
DE202011102731U1 (de) | 2011-06-08 | 2011-12-05 | C. Hafner Gmbh + Co. Kg | Goldlegierung |
WO2014087216A1 (fr) | 2012-12-03 | 2014-06-12 | Argor-Heraeus Sa | Alliage d'or résistant à la décoloration |
US10030296B2 (en) | 2012-12-03 | 2018-07-24 | Argor-Heraeus Sa | Discoloration-resistant gold alloy |
US10683570B2 (en) | 2012-12-03 | 2020-06-16 | Argor-Heraeus Sa | Discoloration-resistant gold alloy |
CH714786A1 (it) * | 2018-03-15 | 2019-09-30 | Argor Heraeus Sa | Lega d'oro con colore compatibile allo standard 5N e metodo di produzione della medesima. |
US11725257B2 (en) | 2018-03-15 | 2023-08-15 | Argor-Heraeus Sa | Gold alloy with color compatible with the 5N standard and method of production thereof |
EP3812477B1 (fr) * | 2019-10-21 | 2023-01-11 | Richemont International SA | Alliage métallique comprenant de l'or |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP1512765B1 (fr) | 2006-12-20 |
DE60310555D1 (de) | 2007-02-01 |
JP2005120465A (ja) | 2005-05-12 |
DE60310555T2 (de) | 2007-12-27 |
DE03405645T1 (de) | 2005-09-01 |
CN100344780C (zh) | 2007-10-24 |
CN1605645A (zh) | 2005-04-13 |
US20050053514A1 (en) | 2005-03-10 |
US7311876B2 (en) | 2007-12-25 |
JP4813028B2 (ja) | 2011-11-09 |
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