EP0975320B1 - Solid cosmetic compositions on the basis of solidified oils and lanosterin - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to solid cosmetic compositions based on solidified oils, which, in conjunction with various additives, are particularly suitable for cosmetic sticks due to their waxy character and transparency. Said compositions are characterized in that they comprise 40 to 95 wt. % of a cosmetically acceptable oil or oil mixture, 1 to 10 wt. % lanosterol and 0 to 58 wt. % of one or more cosmetic active substances or additives, all of which are related to the entire mass of the composition

Description

The invention relates to solid cosmetic compositions based on solidified oils. Such compositions are the result their waxy character and their transparency in particular for cosmetic pencils with different additives suitable.

The basis of previous transparent and firm cosmetic Formulations are mostly soaps from fatty acids, such as sodium stearate or sodium cocoat or those with other medium to long chain fatty acid residues such as stearyl, isostearyl, palmityl or tallow acid residues. Alkali ions are mostly used as counterions such as sodium or lithium or triethanolamine. Man receives solid transparent formulations, which in particular as curd soaps or in a deodorant or antiperspirant be used. For example, is known as a commercial product Stearic acid monoethanolamide.

It is also the basis of deodorants or antiperspirants a mixture of polyols and dibenzylidene or dibenzylidene monosorbitol with polyol contents mostly above 50 % By weight is known in order to achieve a gelling effect. The height However, the polyol content draws a high transepidermal water loss after itself.

In EP-A-291331 transparent pens are used as antiperspirants made of aluminum chlorohydrate, non-ionic surface-active Agents, emollients and water.

EP-A-451002 describes clear antiperspirant sticks which from the antiperspirant, a dihydric alcohol, dibenzylmonosorbitol acetal, N-methylpyrrolidone and an emollient and a stabilizer.

Finally, in EP-A-665007 the difficulty of Production of transparent antiperspirant gels described as a result the limited selection of basic substances that exist form clear gels, and a special composition from one specific silicone oil and 12-hydroxystearic acid or a salt of which and a deodorant described, in which all the ingredients must have a refractive index of 1.48 to 1.53 cSt.

On the other hand, EP-A-636359 describes a deodorant Active ingredient combination based on alpha-omega-alkanedicarboxylic acids and wool wax acids, which among other things also with the usual tools can be processed into solid pins.

In the case of deodorants based on soap, the active ones Ingredients dissolved in an alcohol, or, in the case of non-alcoholic Formulation in which polyol. However, the high percentage of soap is not readily to other formulations, e.g. Deodorants transferable.

GB-A-884688 discloses the optional use of sterols in connection with fatty acid triglycerides, waxes and C ₁₀ -C ₆₀ hydrocarbons as skin conditioners.

The invention has for its object a solid cosmetic Develop composition from the cosmetic Basis without irritation problems for all skin types is applicable, and which is preferably completely or essentially is transparent.

A more specific task is to provide clearer or translucent cosmetic pencils with additional cosmetic Active ingredients or fragrances.

The new solid cosmetic composition based on solidified oils are characterized in that they contain 40 to 95% by weight a cosmetically acceptable oil or oil mixture and 1 to 10 Contains wt% lanosterol and is transparent, with the proportions are each based on the total amount of the composition.

An essential feature of the invention is that the composition is transparent, i.e. completely clear and maximum translucent. Other embodiments may vary added substances may also be translucent, i.e. with something reduced Translucency but transparent.

Another embodiment of the invention with high pigment contents or additives that cause clouding, can also be opaque.

The composition according to the invention advantageously contains 0 - 58% by weight of one or more cosmetic active ingredients or additives, preferably 0.1-58% by weight, in particular 0.1-50 % By weight.

It has surprisingly been found that the addition of lanosterol to common cosmetic oils solid, waxy products results in one depending on the proportion of lanosterol and the type of oil Reach dropping point higher than 60 ° C and thus excellent as a basis for cosmetic pencils or other solid cosmetic compositions are suitable.

Lanosterin is a steroidal alcohol, Lanosta-8,24-dien-3β-ol or 4,4,14α-trimethyl-5α-cholesta-8,24-dien-3β-ol, which largely is obtained from lanolin, e.g. by fractional crystallization. Lanolin is made from sheep's wool wax won and is known in cosmetics as an ointment base. More details on the education of those leading to lanosterol Separation processes are described in the monograph "Woolwax" by E.V. Truter, 1956, Intersience, to which reference is made here becomes. Lanosterol has a molecular weight of 426.7 colorless crystals, has a melting point of 138-140 ° C and is soluble in chloroform and ethanol.

Lanosterin is a commercial product under the name LANOSTEROL available from various suppliers, for example by Croda Chemicals Ltd., East Yorkshire, England, Die The terms lanosterol and lanosterol are used synonymously here.

Lanosterin is related to cholesterol Importance in the therapy of metabolic diseases and is also known as an emulsifier.

In this respect there was no indication for the expert that the Combination of cosmetic oils and lanosterol as well as if necessary the firmness and the cosmetic properties improving rubbers, copolymers and polymers to solid Products similar to classic lipsticks, but with Transparency.

The oils used for the invention can be conventional cosmetic be oils like a mineral oil; hydrogenated polyisobutene (INCI name: Hydrogenated polyisobutenes); synthetic or made Squalane produced from natural products (INCI name: Squalane, e.g. Synthesqual®, Cosbiol®); cosmetic esters or ethers that branch or can be unbranched, saturated or unsaturated; vegetable oils; or mixtures of two or more of them.

Examples of suitable esters or ethers (INCI names) are: Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprilate / hexacaprate / tridecyl trimellitate / tridecyl stearate / neopentyl glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, Propylene glycol dioctanoate 5, propylene glycol dicaprylate 2.30 dicaprate, tridecyl stearate / neopentyl glycol dicaprylate dicaprate / tridecyl trimellitate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, Isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate, trimethyl propane triisostearate, myristyl ether, stearyl ether, butyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, PPG1-PEG9 lauroyl glycol ether, PPG15 Stearyl ether, PPG14 butyl ether, Fomblin HC25.

Particularly suitable oils are, for example, mineral oils, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, squalane, tridecyl trimellitate, Trimethylpropane triisostearate, isodecyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, calendula oil, jojoba oil, Avocado oil, macadamia nut oil or a mixture of several. Each after which oils are selected, the cosmetic Influences properties of the solid composition, such as degree of transparency, Softness, hardness, spreading effect. So you get for example with 50 to 70% by weight Squalane® or Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a completely transparent solid composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients useful for the invention can be polymers, copolymers, silicon dioxide (silica), vitamins, organic oil-soluble dyes, inorganic pigments, antioxidants, deodorants, sunscreens, fragrances and other active ingredients known from cosmetics, such as kaolin or with SiO ₂ according to WO96 / 17588 modified kaolin.

The composition according to the invention, consisting solely of An oil and lanosterol already leads to a firm cosmetic Composition with satisfactory properties in terms strength, even for cosmetic pencils. An improvement these strength properties as well as other cosmetic Properties is possible through the before and after active ingredients and additives.

To improve the strength and stability of the invention Compositions, in particular in the form of cosmetic Pins, serves the content of polymers or copolymers, such as, for example, hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, e.g. Régalite R101® from Hercules; Copolymers of Vinyl pyrrolidone and long-chain α-olefins, such as Antaron V220®, Antaron V216®, Unimer U15®; Salts of fatty acid esters, such as Sodium isostearoyl lactylate (Pationic ISL® from Rita Corp.); and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate (e.g. Glucamate DOE 120®); such as Mixtures thereof, as well as rubbers, such as polyisoprene. Polyisoprene is particularly suitable.

Hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers are particularly preferred, because they reduce the breaking strength of pins without adding cloudiness to the transparency of the pen. In addition, hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins ensure better formability and fillability of the composition in Lipstick or thin stick shapes.

A preferred composition according to the invention contains 40 up to 95% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable oil or oil mixture, 1 to 10% by weight of lanosterol and 5 to 30% by weight of one or more cosmetic copolymers or polymers and suitable fragrance or Dyes or mixtures thereof.

The composition can also be further solidified by adding inorganic substances, such as silica (silicon dioxide), for example Aerosil®, Cab-O-Sil®, Syloid®, or by pigments, kaolin, kaolin modified with SiO ₂ , TiO ₂ etc. . Bonds for solidifying the product can be formed via the hydroxyl groups which may be present therein, the transparency being not impaired and any oily feeling of the stick on the skin being reduced.

Other additives or active ingredients in the cosmetic compositions can be vitamins, e.g. Vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives; colored plant extracts, such as fat-soluble gardenia extract, fat-soluble carrot extract, paprika LS extract, β-carotene, Lithospermum extract; organic light stabilizers such as e.g. Octyl methoxycinnamate; Methyl gluceth 10 or methyl gluceth 20; as well as active deodorants, such as triclosan, or odor extinguishers, like Grillocin®.

The addition of fragrances is of particular interest. The solid composition according to the invention has the great advantage on that in it high proportions of perfumes, mostly dissolved in alcohols and can be incorporated as a concentrate, without the composition becoming opaque. In this way can be from 0.1 to 15% by weight of perfume, based on the Take the total weight of the composition into it. A manufactured one transparent fragrance pen allows a particularly aesthetic and at the same time easy application e.g. in the neck and Facial area, armpits, etc.

The addition of dyes is also of particular interest and pigments for the compositions according to the invention. All known organic dyes and inorganic can be used Pigments are used that are common in cosmetics. there it should be noted that to maintain transparency, a Composition the coloring by organic oil-soluble dyes is required while for translucent or still more opaque compositions including inorganic pigments can be used.

The organic oil-soluble dyes can be of the composition can be easily added. Processing with inorganic pigments are advantageously carried out in such a way that Pigment or pigment mixture is ground with an oil and then is added to the composition. Small amounts of pigments, approximately in the range of 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, lead to colored, almost transparent solid compositions. With larger amounts of pigment, about 3 to 4% by weight, the composition is cloudy or opaque. Hence the formulation of lipsticks, Make-up pencils, lip gloss, blush or primers possible, which also special embodiments of the invention represent in which the pigment contents are up to 8% by weight can.

Pigments, pigment mixtures or powders with pigment-like Effect, including those with a pearlescent effect may include, for example, iron oxides, titanium (di) oxide, Mica, kaolin, talc, mica titanium oxide, mica titanium oxide iron oxide, Bismuth oxychloride, nylon beads, ceramic beads, expanded and unexpanded synthetic polymer powders, powdered natural organic compounds such as ground Fixed algae, encapsulated and unencapsulated cereal starch as well Mica titanium oxide organic dye.

Solid compositions according to the invention can of course also be used with primarily fragrance components, e.g. Fragrance pens, with pigments, and vice versa more can or less pigmented compositions with certain fragrance levels be provided.

Liquid crystals can also be added, e.g. Licritherm® by Merck.

Another special feature of the invention is that the composition is water phase free, i.e. it contains no separately added water as an independent phase would be understood. The composition contains at most such small amounts of water that are physically bound by individual Aggregates are entered. However, this proportion lies well below 5% by weight.

The preparation of the solid compositions according to the invention is generally done in such a way that the oil with lanosterol mixed temperature of about 40 to 90 ° C mixed with stirring becomes. The temperature may also be higher if resinous polymers and copolymers added as additives and their melting point is higher. It is beneficial to include such substances in the composition by melting. After that, other cosmetic active ingredients or others Additives with stirring and at temperatures containing these substances are appropriate and known to those skilled in the art are added. At temperatures between about 60 and 70 ° C becomes the homogeneous mixture, which is previously deaerated by slow stirring has been poured into appropriate molds and cooled.

1) feste Zusammensetzungen in Form von transparenten festen Make-up's, gefärbt oder ungefärbt, mit Duftstoffen oder ohne Duftstoffe, mit oder ohne Aktivstoffe, Sonnenschutzfilter oder Flüssigkristalle;

2) transparente Duftkompositionen, gefärbt oder ungefärbt, mit oder ohne Aktivstoffe, Sonnenschutzfilter oder Flüssigkristalle;

3) transparente Sonnenschutzkompositionen, gefärbt oder ungefärbt, mit Duftstoffen oder ohne Duftstoffe, mit oder ohne Aktivstoffe oder Flüssigkristalle.

4) transparente Deodorant- und/oder Antitransprirantkompositionen, gefärbt oder ungefärbt, mit Duftstoffen, mit oder ohne Aktivstoffe oder Flüssigkristalle.

Preferred embodiments of the invention are

1) solid compositions in the form of transparent solid make-up, colored or uncolored, with or without fragrances, with or without active ingredients, sun protection filters or liquid crystals;

2) transparent fragrance compositions, colored or uncolored, with or without active substances, sun protection filters or liquid crystals;

3) transparent sun protection compositions, colored or uncolored, with or without fragrances, with or without active ingredients or liquid crystals.

4) transparent deodorant and / or anti-perspirant compositions, colored or uncolored, with fragrances, with or without active substances or liquid crystals.

The invention is illustrated below by examples become. All percentages are percentages by weight, provided not stated otherwise.

example 1 Uncolored Transparent Pen (1)

The preparation was carried out by mixing all components at a temperature up to about 115 ° C. After the wax had melted, the homogeneous product was cooled to 70 ° C. and poured into molds. Lanosterol 3rd Squalane® qs Tridecyl trimellitate 15 Hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer 15

Example 2 Uncolored Transparent Pen (2)

The preparation was carried out as in Example 1. Lanosterol 8th Hydrogenated polyisobutene qs Tridecyl trimellitate 25th Hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer 22

Example 3 Colored transparent pen

Lanosterol 6 Hydrogenated polyisobutene q.s. Tridecyl trimellitate 24.97 Hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer 8th Red 7 Ca ⁺⁺ Lake (CI 15850: 1) 0.02 Red 33 Al Lake (CI 17200) 0.01

Lanosterin, the Copolymers, Tridecyl Trimellitate and Hydrogenated polyisobutene were stirred at about 300 rpm. at Temperatures melted up to about 115 ° C. After completing the Melting process, the temperature was reduced to 95 ° C and the Pigments premixed separately with trimellitate are added. With stirring at approx. 350 rpm. silica was added. To The introduction of silica was under further temperature reduction Stir slowly to vent the homogeneous mixture. At 65 ° C the product was poured into molds.

Example 4 Transparent pencil with colored plant extract

Lanosterol 7 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 53 Tridecyl trimellitate 24.90 Hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer 10th Silica 4th Lithospermum extract 0.10

The procedure was as in Example 3. The Lithospermum extract was added at 80 ° C after incorporation of silica.

Example 5 Transparent pen with light protection

Lanosterol 8th Hydrogenated polyisobutene q.s Trimethylolpropane triisostearate 10th Hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer 10th Octylmethoxycinnamate 6

The procedure was the same as in Example 1. The Octylmethoxycinnamate was at 70 ° C while cooling added. The sun protection factor (SPF) was 8.

Example 6 Transparent pen with deodorant properties

Lanosterol 5.5 Polyisoprene q.s. Triclosan 0.3 Squalane 3rd Fragance 1

The procedure was similar to that in Example 1. The Triclosan was added at 70 ° C while cooling and the fragrances immediately before pouring into molds (at about 60 ° C).

Example 7 Fragrance pen

Lanosterol 6.9 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 65 Tridecyl trimellitate 5 Hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer 10th Silica 3.5 Fragance 10th

The procedure was as in Example 3. The fragrances were at 60 ° C immediately before filling in the molds.

Example 8 Makeup pen

Lanosterol 5 Hydrogenated polyisobutene q.s. Tridecyl styrene 23.5 Methylstyrene / Indene Silica 8.5 Silica 2nd Red pigment 0.5 Black pigment 0.2 Modified kaolin. according to WO96 / 17588 1.2 TiO ₂ 1.0 Brown pigment 0.8

The procedure was similar to that in Example 3.

Claims (13)

1. A solid cosmetic composition on the basis of solidified oils, which comprises 40 to 95% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable oil or oil mixture and 1 to 10% by weight of lanosterol, each based on the total amount of the composition, and which composition is transparent.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, squalane, vegetable oils, cosmetic esters, cosmetic ethers and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to Claim 2, wherein the oil is hydrogenated polyisobuten, polyisoprene, squalane, tridecyl trimellitate, trimethylpropane triisotearate, isodecyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, PPG15 stearyl ether, calendula oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, macadamia-nut oil or a mixture thereof.
4. Composition according to Claim 1, comprising 40 to 95% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable oil or oil mixture, 1 to 10% by weight of lanosterol and 5 to 30% by weight of one or more cosmetic polymers or copolymers.
5. Composition according to Claim 1, comprising 0.1 to 58% by weight of one or more active cosmetic ingredients or additives which are selected from the group consisting of polymers, copolymers, silica, vitamins, organic oil-soluble colorants, inorganic pigments, antioxidants, deodorants, sunscreens, fragrances, kaolin, with SiO₂ modified kaolin, colored plant extracts, organic sunscreens, active deodorants, liquid crystals and mixtures thereof, the percentage is based in each case on the total weight of the composition, and wherein the composition is free of a watery phase.
6. Composition according to Claim 5, comprising 0.1 to 50% by weight of one or more active cosmetic ingredients or additives.
7. Composition according to Claim 5, wherein polymers and copolymers are selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymers, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and long-chain α-olefins, salts of fatty acid esters, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to Claim 5, wherein said composition is translucent.
9. Composition according to one of the Claims 1 to 8, wherein said composition is present in the form of cosmetic sticks with a diameter of 0.5 to 5 cm.
10. Composition according to Claim 10, wherein said composition is present in the form of a transparent cosmetic stick with fragrances and without an aqueous phase.
11. Composition according to Claims 9 or 10, wherein said stick is colored or pigmented.
12. Composition according to one of the Claims 1 to 9, wherein said composition is present in the form of a makeup formulation.
13. Composition according to one of the Claims 1 to 7, wherein said composition is present in the form of a sunscreen formulation.