EP0103129A1 - Corset part, especially brassière - Google Patents

Abstract

Padded fabric particularly suitable, for example, for padded brassieres is made by knitting, on a tricot or Raschel knitting machine, having at least three guide bars (53,54,55) and two rows (51,51') of spaced needles, inner and outer base fabrics (58,59) which are connected with interknitted filler threads (61) in the form of sinker stitches, extending between the base fabrics, the sinker stitches being bound into and connecting the base fabrics and being interknitted therewith. The filler threads can be suitably selected for bending resistance, and, if a thermoplastic material, mixed for example with cotton, with the thermoplastic material predominating, permitting heat-treatment of the resulting padded material to form, for example, brassiere cups of desired thickness, and hence padding material content.

Description

The invention relates to a corsetry part, in particular a brassiere, with an outer and inner side each formed by knitted fabric and a textile filling material arranged between them.

In the manufacture of corsetry, for example, bras for poorly developed breasts, voluminous textile materials are processed, which have to be characterized by a large volume with simultaneous softness of the goods. In practice, laminates are used for this ("fibrefill"), which consist of a knitted or knitted inner fabric that forms the inside to be worn on the body and an outer or outer fabric that gives the outside, which is also formed by a knitted or knitted fabric . A textile filling material is arranged between the inner and outer fabric
the whole textile, and thus the bodice made from it, gives the desired volume. This filler material often consists of a non-woven fabric that is glued to the lower fabric and the outer fabric or is simply glued to the lower fabric and sewn to the outer fabric.

By gluing the individual layers of this laminated textile material, the fibers of the filling material are hindered in their freedom of movement, which results in an impairment of the elasticity and the air permeability of the textile material.

If the filler material layer is only glued to one, for example the lower material, then the sewing of the material must be done with relatively great care, because at the same time the inner material must be sewn to the outer material and the filler material layer.

The object of the invention is therefore to provide a corsetry part, in particular a brassiere, which contains a voluminous textile material which is completely adhesive-free, is distinguished by a large volume corresponding to the respective requirements and is easy to process and, if desired, has a high elasticity having.

To achieve this object, the corsetry part according to the invention is characterized in that it is made at least partially from a double-faced warp knitted fabric with at least three laying rails on a warp knitting and ruching machine with two rows of needles, with filler threads formed by long sinker stitches, the filler threads of which extend between the two basic knitted fabrics, which are worked on a row of needles, and are integrated into them.

This warp knitted fabric is produced in one operation, the upper and lower fabric formed by the two basic knitted fabrics being produced in a coherent manner with the filling material consisting of the filling threads. The goods processed in this way are dyed and finished and are then ready for assembly without an additional work step.

In the new corsetry part, at least the base fabric forming the outside can be patterned, as is also possible that the two base fabrics are worked with different bindings. For example, a basic knitted fabric can advantageously be worked with a greater abundance and less transparency than the binding resulting from the other basic knitted fabric. The filling thread can also be formed by at least two thread systems laid by separate laying rails in order to achieve a greater density of the filling material, for example. The two thread systems can be processed in a reverse weave, which can improve the appearance of the textile.

The wearing comfort of a new bodice can be increased by working with cotton thread at least on the basic fabric forming the inside. As a filling material and on the outside 100% synthetic fibers (bs ^p w. Polyester or polyamide) can be used.

For the filler threads, the thread material which is expedient in view of the desired properties of the corsetry part can be selected, the length of the filler threads and thus the distance between the two base fabrics being able to be designed as desired. The density of the filler material formed by the filler threads can also be adapted precisely to the respective requirements, with a larger thread size, a higher number of rows and a greater offset from row of needles to row of needles resulting in a greater density of the filler material, as well as the use of a further laying rail mentioned above on both rows of needles.

When it comes down to it. To create corsetry with particularly high elasticity of the filler material, it is advantageous that the filler threads are monofilament synthetic threads with high crush resistance. In principle, however, it is also conceivable to manufacture the warp knitted fabric overall from 100% cotton or to use cotton or another natural fiber for the filler threads and one or the other basic knitted fabric. If the entire corset is to be very elastic, the arrangement is expediently such that at least one of the base fabrics is worked with an elastic thread, preferably elastane.

Since the filler threads run between the two basic fabrics in the new corsetry part, they are subjected to compression when the fabric is compressed. This is in contrast to the situation in the case of the known laminated material mentioned at the outset, in which the fibers of the nonwoven layer run essentially parallel to the upper and lower material. The new corsetry part is therefore not only characterized by a high air permeability, but also by the fact that the filling threads, which are subject to compression, can oppose the compression of the fabric with a high elastic resistance, the size of which can be determined by appropriate choice of density _/ titer and material as well as Structure of the filaments can be changed within wide limits.

If the basic knitted fabric forming the outside of the corsetry part is worked with two laying rails, the warp-knitted fabric becomes more compact and gets a tighter stretch. If the corsetry part consists of a predominantly thermoplastic thread Textile fabric is worked, it can be deformed (heat molded) by conversion into the final shape.

• Fig. 1 ein Miederwarenteil in Gestalt eines Büstenhalters gemäß der Erfindung, in schematischer Darstellung, teilweise aufgeschnitten,
• Fig. 2 eine Raschel zur Herstellung eines Miederwarenteiles gemäß der Erfindung, in schematischer Schnittdarstellung, unter vergrößerter Veranschaulichung' des im Querschnitt dargestellten Textilstoffes, und
• Fig. 3 sechs verschiedene Legungen für die Bindung von bis ⁸ Kettenwirkwaren für Miederteile gemäß der Erfindung.

Exemplary embodiments of the subject matter of the invention are shown in the drawing. Show it:

• 1 is a corsetry part in the form of a bra according to the invention, in a schematic representation, partially cut away,
• Fig. 2 is a Raschel for producing a corsetry part according to the invention, in a schematic sectional view, with an enlarged view 'of the textile material shown in cross section, and
• Fig. 3 six different layings for the binding of up to ⁸ warp knitted fabrics for bodice parts according to the invention.

The illustrated in FIGS. 3 to 8 in various embodiments based on the respective laying, for the manufacture of corsetry, such as
Brassieres, certain voluminous textile material is a two-layer warp knitted fabric which is produced on a Raschel machine with two needle bars, as is illustrated schematically in FIG. 2. The two needle bars are labeled 50; they each carry a row of needles 51. The individual latch needles are each guided in slots in a tapping comb or milling plate 52, as is known per se.

The Raschel machine works with at least three laying rails 53, 54, 55, but there may also be a larger number of laying rails, in order to increase the pattern possibility, for example, with a patterned top of the goods or to lay several systems of filling threads, as will be explained in more detail below .

The front laying rail 53 and the rear laying rail 55 each work only on the front or rear row of needles 51 assigned to them. In doing so, they each form a basic fabric with their thread 56 and 57, respectively. The two basic fabrics are indicated at 58, 59.

The middle laying rail 54 lays its thread 60 from one row of needles 51 to the other row of needles 51, the long sinker loops formed in this way forming filler threads which are formed between the two basic fabrics 58, 59, each spaced apart by a laying rail 53 or 55 extend and are integrated into this.

The filler threads, which are designated as a whole by 61, thus form an elastic, absorbent and air-permeable filler material between the two base fabrics 58, 59 forming the outer fabric and the lower fabric.

The length of the filling threads 61 and thus the product thickness is determined by the needle bar or milling plate spacing 62. By changing the milling plate spacing 62, the fabric thickness can be changed as desired, the possible variations ranging from a very thin fabric, in which the two base fabrics 58, 59 lie almost on top of one another, to a very thick fabric, in which the filler threads 61 correspond accordingly have great length. This means that all fabric thicknesses required for the corset production can be created.

The density of the filling material formed by the filling threads 61 can also be determined according to the respective requirements. A larger thread or thread size, a higher number of rows and a greater offset from row of needles to row of needles result in a greater density of the filler material, as does the use of any further middle laying bar laying on both rows of needles 51.

Conversely, the use of fewer medium laying rails on both rows of needles 51, a more direct thread path from row of needles to row of needles (smaller offset), a smaller number of rows and finer thread less filler material between the two basic fabrics 58, 59. With the same setting and the same material, the contains with a finer raschel fabric produced more fillers _- material as the coming of a coarser raschel fabric.

The fact that at least one laying rail 53 or 55 works on each of the two rows of needles 51 in such a way that it remains on this row of needles and does not rest on the respective opposite row of needles, avoids that the filling threads 61 forming and the connection between the two basic fabrics 58, 59 producing long sinker stitches, which are formed by the middle laying rail 54, migrate into the needle stitches, as a result of which the goods would become loose and flat. The sinker stitches have no possibility to get thread later, to enlarge it and to reduce the thickness of the fabric. With the described three laying rails 53, 54, 55, of which the laying rail 53 works on the front row of needles 51, the laying rail 54 works on both rows of needles 51 and the laying rail 55 on the rear row of needles 51, it is possible to produce non-patterned goods in a favorable manner.

If the basic fabric forming the outside, for example 58, is to be patterned, there are almost the ones known from warp knitting. unlimited pattern options. The laying can be changed; multiple laying rails can be used and the like.

In a corresponding manner, it is also possible to work the two base fabrics 58, 59 with a different weave.

Instead of the one middle guide rail 54, several middle guide rails can be used, each of which is assigned its own thread system and which work on both rows of needles 51. It is also advantageous if a particularly compact warp knitted fabric with tight stretch is to be produced, the basic fabric forming the outside to work with two laying rails, while only one laying rail is used for inserting the filler threads and for the basic knitting on the back.

The individual laying rails can of course work with the same or different threads. For example, it is advantageous if cotton is worked with the rear lay rail 55 and a polyester or a polyamide thread is worked with the front and middle lay rail 53 or 54. This creates a textile fabric that is processed during processing Corsetry on its inside lying on the skin of the wearer predominantly has the skin-friendly cotton, while the filling material formed by the filling threads 61 and the base fabric 58 forming the outside consist of 100% polyester or polyamide.

3 to 8, six different double-surface warp knitted fabrics produced in the manner described are illustrated by their laying. In the figures, "H" and "V" in the usual way indicate the front and the rear needle bar 52, respectively, while the numbers indicate the displacements of the laying rails.

"LS" means "laying rail".

3, 4, 6 and 7, the two base fabrics 58, 59 worked by the front and rear laying rails 53 and 55 each have a right / left jersey binding (closed). The laying of the middle laying rail 54 is shortened in the embodiment according to FIG. 4 compared to that according to FIG. 3, which results in a lower filling thread density and a higher compression hardness, because the filling threads 61 are more right-angled with respect to the base fabrics 58, 59.

In the embodiment according to FIG. 4, the middle laying rail 54 runs opposite to the front laying rail 53, while in the embodiment according to FIG. 6 the arrangement is made just the other way round, so that the middle laying rail 54 runs parallel to the front laying rail 53 in order to do so to make the stitches straighter if this is advantageous in view of a more attractive appearance of the goods.

In the embodiment according to FIG. 5, the front laying rail 53 overlaps 2 (right / left twill closed} in order to achieve more fullness and less transparency on the front of the goods. Of course, the same could also be provided on the rear of the goods.

While only one middle laying rail 54 is used in the embodiments according to FIGS. 3 to 6, two middle laying rails 54, 54a are used in the embodiment according to FIG. 7. This has the advantage that the stitches are straight, whereby on the other hand, however, the filler thread density and thus the material consumption are greater.

The embodiment according to FIG. 8 is finally worked with a middle laying rail 54 and a rear laying rail 55, but with two front laying rails 53, 53a, the front base fabric 58 having the weave pattern (atlas) shown in the figure.

As already mentioned, corsetry and, in particular, bras are produced from the voluminous double-layer warp knit fabric described. If the goods are predominantly made of a thermoplastic synthetic thread material, for example polyester, as long as the proportion of cotton in the total weight does not exceed 35%, the textile material can even be deformed by the action of heat without the filler threads 61 acting as a volume-increasing filler material to lose. For example, in the bra shown in FIG. 1, it is possible to form the cups 65 directly from the textile material, the textile material maintaining the thickness required to enlarge the external dimensions of the cups.

As already stated earlier, depending on the desired properties of the textile material, the layings produced by the individual laying rails can be made from natural or synthetic fibers using suitably chosen threads. If a high compression hardness of the filling material is important, monofilament polyester or polyamide threads can advantageously be used for the filling threads 61. If a high elasticity of the corsetry part is to be achieved, an elastic thread, preferably elastane (spandex), is used for at least one of the base fabrics 58, 59.

Examples of suitable thread combinations are listed in the table below, which, however, means no limitation.

Claims (9)

1. Corset part, in particular brassiere, with an outer and inner side each formed by knitted fabric and a textile filling material arranged therebetween, characterized in that it consists at least partially of a two-layered, with at least three laying rails (53, 54, 55) on a warp knit or Raschel machine with two rows of needles (51) worked warp knitted fabric with filler threads (61) formed by long sinker stitches, the filler threads (61) of which extend between the two basic knitted fabrics (58, 59) working on a row of needles (51) and are involved in this. 2. Corsetry part according to claim 1, characterized in that at least the base fabric (58) forming the outside is patterned (Fig. 8). 3. corsetry part according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the two base fabrics (59, 59) are worked with a different weave. 4. corsetry part according to claim 3, characterized in that a basic fabric with a greater abundance and a lower transparency than the other basic fabric resulting binding is worked _{(Fig . 5).} 5. corsetry part according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filling threads (61) are formed by at least two thread systems laid by separate laying rails (Fig. 7). 6. corsetry part according to claim 5, characterized in that the two thread systems are processed in opposite binding (Fig. 7). 7. corsetry part according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least the basic fabric (59) forming the inside is worked with cotton thread. 8. corsetry part according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filling threads (61) are monofilament synthetic threads of high crush resistance. 9. corsetry part according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the warp knitted fabric consists predominantly of thermoplastic threads and is deformed by the action of heat with transfer into the final shape.

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