EP0069878A1 - Elastic covering yarn - Google Patents

Elastic covering yarn Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0069878A1
EP0069878A1 EP82105364A EP82105364A EP0069878A1 EP 0069878 A1 EP0069878 A1 EP 0069878A1 EP 82105364 A EP82105364 A EP 82105364A EP 82105364 A EP82105364 A EP 82105364A EP 0069878 A1 EP0069878 A1 EP 0069878A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
wrapping
dtex
yarns
spun
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Granted
Application number
EP82105364A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0069878B1 (en
Inventor
Gerd Arenz
Hans-Roderich Wiehe
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Bayer AG
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Bayer AG
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Priority to DE19813126016 priority Critical patent/DE3126016A1/en
Priority to DE3126016 priority
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Publication of EP0069878A1 publication Critical patent/EP0069878A1/en
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36Cored or coated yarns or threads

Abstract

Elastisches Umspinnungsgarn, dessen Seele ein Umwindungsgarn aus Elastan-Filamentgarn mit Polyamid, Polyester- oder Viskose-Filamentgarn als Hüllmaterial ist, und das mit unterschiedlichen Materialien umsponnen sein kann, hat Vorteile in den Eigenschaften und in der Verarbeitung gegenüber einem Umspinnungsgarn, dessen Seele ein nacktes Elastanfilamentgarn ist.Elastic spun yarn, the core of which is a spun yarn made of elastane filament yarn with polyamide, polyester or viscose filament yarn as the covering material, and which can be spun with different materials, has advantages in properties and processing over a spun yarn, the core of which is a bare one Is elastane filament yarn.

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft ein elastisches Umspinnungsgarn, dessen Seele ein Umwindungsgarn aus Elasthan-Filamentgarn mit Polyamid-, Polyester- oder Viskose-Filamentgarn als Hüllmaterial ist. Das als Seele verwendete Umwindungsgarn kann mit unterschiedlichen Materialien umsponnen werden, beispielsweise mit Zellulose, Mischgarnen aus Zellulose/Polyester oder Zellulose/Polyacrylnitril, mit Wolle, Zelluloseregeneratfasern (Viskose) und Mischungen mit Polyester bzw. Polyacrylnitril.The invention relates to an elastic spun yarn, the core of which is a spun yarn made of elastane filament yarn with polyamide, polyester or viscose filament yarn as the covering material. The wrapping yarn used as a core can be wound with different materials, for example with cellulose, mixed yarns made of cellulose / polyester or cellulose / polyacrylonitrile, with wool, regenerated cellulose fibers (viscose) and blends with polyester or polyacrylonitrile.

Bekannt sind elastische Umspinnungsgarne, die als Seele ein nacktes Elasthan-Filamentgarn und als Hüllmaterial Spinnfasergarne aufweisen. Gewebe aus solchen Umspinnungsgarnen sind allgemein weichzügig, d. h., Artikel aus diesen Geweben zeigen schon bei geringer Belastung Längungen, die im Verlauf der Weiterverarbeitung Komplikationen bewirken. Darüber hinaus ist bekannt, daß die textilen Flächengebilden aus solchen Umspinnungsgarnen einen flachen Modul aufweisen und daher im allgemeinen über geringere Rückstellkräfte verfügen. Als Folge der leichten Verformbarkeit wird der Warenausfall solcher ümspinnungsgarne in Verbindung mit abweichenden Fadenzugkräften durch Bildung von Bolderstellen, Breitenschwankungen und Spannfäden ungünstig beeinflußt. Diese Nachteile in der Herstellung und Verarbeitung der bekannten Umspinnungsgarne haben dazu geführt, daß sich diese Materialien nicht im gewünschten Umfang für die Herstellung von elastischen Geweben durchgesetzt haben. Insbesondere auch bei der Stückfärbung konnten die bisherigen elastischen Umspinnungsgarne nicht befriedigen. Das trifft auch auf die in den GB-PS 949 326 und US-PS 2 024 156 beschriebenen elastischen Garne zu, in denen drei Garne gegeneinander verzwirnt werden, wodurch im wesentlichen ein Dreikomponentenzwirn mit Elasthan-Filamentgarn als Seele und spiraligem Garn- oder Zwirnaufbau erhalten wird.Elastic spun yarns are known which have a bare spandex filament yarn as the core and spun fiber yarns as the covering material. Fabrics made from such spun yarns are generally soft, ie items made from these fabrics show elongations even at low loads, which cause complications in the course of further processing. It is also known that the textile fabrics made from such spun yarns have a flat module and therefore generally have lower restoring forces. As a result of the easy deformability, the failure of such spun yarns in connection with deviating thread pulls adversely affected by the formation of bolt points, width fluctuations and tension threads. These disadvantages in the production and processing of the known spun yarns have meant that these materials have not become established in the desired scope for the production of elastic fabrics. The previous elastic spun yarns were also unsatisfactory, particularly in the case of piece dyeing. This also applies to the elastic yarns described in GB-PS 949 326 and US-PS 2 024 156, in which three yarns are twisted against each other, whereby essentially a three-component twist with elastane filament yarn as a core and a spiral yarn or twist structure is obtained becomes.

Es wurde nun gefunden, daß sich die vorgehend beschriebenen Nachteile weitgehend vermeiden lassen, wenn zur Herstellung elastischer Umspinnungsgarne anstelle des nackten Elasthan-Filamentgarnes ein bereits stabilisiertes Umwindungsgarn aus verstrecktem Elasthan-Filamentgarn, das alternativ mit Polyamid-, Polyester-oder Viskose-Filamentgarn umwunden ist, zum Einsatz kommt.It has now been found that the disadvantages described above can be largely avoided if, instead of the bare elastane filament yarn, an already stabilized wrapping yarn made of stretched elastane filament yarn, which is alternatively wound with polyamide, polyester or viscose filament yarn, is used to produce elastic spun yarns , is used.

Umspinnungsgarne mit den vorstehend beschriebenen Umwindungsgarnen als Seele können im Gegensatz zu bisherigen Umspinnungsgarnen auf regulären Ringspinnmaschinen hergestellt werden, ohne daß das bei Verwendung von nacktem Elasthan für die Verstreckung unbedingt erforderliche zusätzliche Lieferwerk vorhanden sein muß. Durch die Verwendung von Elasthan-Umwindungsgarnen als Seele in den elastischen Umspinnungsgarnen wird nichit nur ein stabileres Garngefüge erreicht, sondern Umspinnungsgarne dieser Art haben als Folge der zusätzlichen Umwindung des Elasthan-Garnes mit feinem Filamentgarn einen heute in vielen Einsatzbereichen geforderten höheren Modul. Daraus gefertigte Flächengebilde sind somit gegenüber unerwünschten und vielfach nicht kontrollierbaren Verformungen unempfindlicher und haben damit eine höhere Formstabilität. Die Handhabung von elastisch dehnbaren Artikeln mit höherem Modul erleichtert hauptsächlich den Prozeßablauf im Verlauf der Konfektionierung zu Bekleidungsstücken. Es hat sich weiterhin gezeigt, daß die erfindungsgemäßen ümspinnungsgarne mit Umwindungsgarn-Seele und einer heute in bestimmten Einsatzbereichen geforderten elastischen Dehnbarkeit von 20 bis 30 % im allgemeinen nicht nur ein stabileres Gefüge aufweisen, sondern aufgrund der höheren Kraftaufnahme bei Verdehnung hohe Rückstellkräfte mobilisieren. Laufmäßig, d.h., beim Verarbeiten der erfindungsgemäßen Umspinnungsgarne, ist ein günstigeres Verhalten durch geringere Fadenbruchzahl festzustellen, vor allem dann, wenn geschlichtete erfindungsgemäße Umspinnungsgarne als Kette zur Herstellung von Geweben Verwendung finden.In contrast to previous spun yarns, spun yarns with the spool yarns described above as a core can be produced on regular ring spinning machines without the need for the additional supply mechanism that is absolutely necessary for stretching when using bare elastane. The use of elastane wrapping yarns as a core in the elastic wrapping yarns does not only achieve a more stable yarn structure, but wrapping yarns of this type have a higher modulus, which is required in many areas of application as a result of the additional wrapping of the elastane yarn with fine filament yarn. The fabric made from them is therefore less sensitive to undesired and often uncontrollable deformations and therefore has a higher dimensional stability. The handling of elastically stretchable articles with a higher module mainly facilitates the process flow in the course of the assembly into articles of clothing. It has also been shown that the spun yarns according to the invention with a winding yarn core and an elastic extensibility of 20 to 30% required in certain fields of use generally not only have a more stable structure, but also mobilize high restoring forces due to the higher force absorption when stretched. In terms of running, that is to say when processing the spinning yarns according to the invention, a more favorable behavior can be determined by a lower number of thread breaks, especially when sized spinning yarns according to the invention are used as a chain for the production of fabrics.

Die in Abhängigkeit vom jeweiligen Verwendungszweck bestehende Möglichkeit, durch entsprechenden Garnaufbau die Dehnbarkeitsbereiche zu variieren, erlaubt dem Verarbeiter ein größeres Spektrum in der Gestaltungsmöglichkeit von textilen Flächengebilden, ohne daß durch erhebliche Eingriffe in der Garnkonstruktion, beispielsweise Ersatz eines Einfachgarnes durch einen elastischen Zwirn, Veränderung der Garnoptik durch höhere Drehung, das angestrebte Aussehen der Ware beeinträchtigt wird.The possibility, depending on the respective intended use, of varying the elasticity ranges by means of a corresponding yarn structure, allows the processor to design a wider spectrum Possibility of textile fabrics, without significant interventions in the yarn construction, for example replacing a single yarn with an elastic thread, changing the look of the yarn through higher twist, the desired appearance of the goods is impaired.

Die erfindungsgemäßen Umspinnungsgarne mit Umwindungsgarn-Seele führen außerdem zu einem besseren Gesamtausfall der Fertigware, weil aufgrund des höheren Moduls die Folgen unerwünschter Garnverformungen im Verarbeitungsprozeß weniger gravierend sind und auch die Optik der Fertigware der einer unelastischen Ware entspricht.The spinning yarns with the winding yarn core also lead to a better overall failure of the finished goods, because due to the higher modulus the consequences of undesirable yarn deformation in the processing process are less serious and the appearance of the finished goods corresponds to that of an inelastic product.

Die erfindungsgemäßen Umspinnungsgarne enthalten ein Umwindungsgarn aus einem Elasthan-Filamentgarn mit einem Titerbereich von 30 bis 200 dtex, vorzugsweise 45 bis 160 dtex, das einfach oder kreuzweise mit Polyamid-, Polyester- oder Viskose-Filamentgarn des Titerbereishes 15 bis 90 dtex, insbesondere 22 bis 78 dtex umwunden ist.The spinning yarns according to the invention contain a winding yarn made of an elastane filament yarn with a titer range of 30 to 200 dtex, preferably 45 to 160 dtex, which is simple or crosswise with polyamide, polyester or viscose filament yarn of the titer range 15 to 90 dtex, in particular 22 to 78 dtex is wound.

Bevorzugt werden 45 dtex, 80 dtex oder 160 dtex Elasthan-Filamentgarne, einfach oder kreuzweise umwunden, mit 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 50 dtex, 67 dtex oder 78 dtex, einfach oder zweifach, Polyamid- oder PolyesterFilamentgarn für die Herstellung des Umwindungsgarnes verwendet. Die Hüllmaterialien für die Herstellung des Umspinnungsgarnes liegen in den Nummernbereichen Nm 40 bis Nm 10, vorzugsweise Nm 30 bis Nm 12 vor.45 dtex, 80 dtex or 160 dtex elastane filament yarns, single or cross-wound, with 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 50 dtex, 67 dtex or 78 dtex, single or double, polyamide or polyester filament yarns are preferably used for the production of the winding yarn. The wrapping materials for the production of the spun yarn are in the number ranges Nm 40 to Nm 10, preferably Nm 30 to Nm 12.

Ein besonderer Vorteil des erfindungsgemäßen Umspinnungsgarnes ist die Einsetzbarkeit in der Stückfärberei, weil die Abdeckung des Umwindungsfadens durch das Hüllmaterial so vollkommen ist, daß ein Durchscheinen des möglicherweise nicht angefärbten Umwindungsfadens unterbleibt.A particular advantage of the spinning yarn according to the invention is that it can be used in piece dyeing, because the covering of the wrapping thread by the covering material is so perfect that the wrapping thread, which may not be colored, does not show through.

Beispiel:Example:

Es wurde ein Köpergewebe aus einem elastischen Umspinnungsgarn mit folgender Konstruktion hergestellt:

  • Seele: Umwindungsgarn aus 80 dtex Elasthan 1-fach umwunden mit 22 dtex f 7 x 1 Nylon glatt, 900 T/m S
  • Umsponnen mit 40 tex x 1 (≙ Nm 25/1) Baumwolle, T/m S Effektive Garnstärke gestreckt
    Figure imgb0001
    45 tex ≙ Nm 22,5
A twill fabric was made from an elastic spun yarn with the following construction:
  • Soul: Wrapping yarn made of 80 dtex spandex single-wound with 22 dtex f 7 x 1 nylon smooth, 900 T / m S
  • Wound with 40 tex x 1 (≙ Nm 25/1) cotton, T / m S effective yarn count stretched
    Figure imgb0001
    45 tex ≙ Nm 22.5

Dieses elastische Umspinnungsgarn gelangte als Kettmaterial mit einer Fadendichte von 250 Fd/10 cm - Fertigware - zum Einsatz, nachdem das Garn zuvor mit normalen, für die Schlichtung von Baumwollgarnen geeigneten Produkten geschlichtet wurde. Als Schußmaterial wurde ein Spinnfasergarn aus Polyacrylnitril 62,5 tex x 1 verwendet. Schußdichte 230 Fd/10 cm in der Fertigware. Bindung 3/1 Köper, mz-Gewicht 280 g.This elastic spun yarn was used as warp material with a thread density of 250 Fd / 10 cm - finished goods - after the yarn had previously been sized with normal products suitable for the sizing of cotton yarns. A spun fiber yarn made of polyacrylonitrile 62.5 tex x 1 was used as the weft material. Weft density 230 Fd / 10 cm in the finished product. Binding 3/1 twill, m z - weight 280 g.

Nach dem Waschen und Schrumpfen der Rohware, einer folgenden Flächenfixierung mit anschließender Stückfärbung der Baumwolle mit Zellulosefarbstoffen und einer artikelspezifischen Endappretur resultierte ein denimähnliches Gewebe mit einer Dehnbarkeit von 25 bis 30 %, das ein hohes Rücksprungvermögen und hohe Kraftaufnahme bei Verdehnung zeigte.After washing and shrinking the raw material, a subsequent surface fixation with subsequent piece dyeing of the cotton with cellulose dyes and an article-specific final finish, a denim-like fabric with an extensibility of 25 to 30% resulted, which showed a high resilience and high force absorption when stretched.

Claims (4)

1. Elastisches Umspinnungsgarn gekennzeichnet durch ein Umwindungsgarn aus verstrecktem Elasthan-Filamentgarn, umwunden mit Polyamid-, Polyester- oder Viskose-Filamentgarn, als Seele.1. Elastic spun yarn characterized by a winding yarn made of stretched elastane filament yarn, wound with polyamide, polyester or viscose filament yarn, as a soul. 2. Umspinnungsgarn nach Anspruch 1, dessen Seele mit Zellulose, Mischgarnen aus Zellulose/Polyester oder Zellulose/Pclyacrylnitril, Wolle, Zelluloseregeneratfasern oder Mischungen mit Polyester bzw. Polyacrylnitril umsponnen ist.2. Wrapping yarn according to claim 1, the core of which is wound with cellulose, mixed yarns made of cellulose / polyester or cellulose / acrylic acrylonitrile, wool, regenerated cellulose fibers or mixtures with polyester or polyacrylonitrile. 3. Umspinnungsgarn nach Anspruch 2, bei dem das Elasthan-Filamentgarn einem Titerbereich von 30 bis 200 dtex, das Umwindungsmaterial einen Titerbereich von 15 bis 90 dtex und das Umspinnungsmaterial einen Nummernbereich Nm 40 bis Nm 10 aufweisen.3. Wrapping yarn according to claim 2, wherein the elastane filament yarn has a titer range from 30 to 200 dtex, the wrapping material has a titer range from 15 to 90 dtex and the wrapping material has a number range Nm 40 to Nm 10. 4. Umspinnungsmaterial nach Anspruch 2, bei dem das Elasthan-Filamentgarn einen Titerbereich von 45 bis 160 dtex, das Umwindungsmaterial einen Titerbereich von 22 bis 78 dtex und das Umspinnungsmaterial einen Nummernbereich von Nm 30 bis Nm 12 aufweisen.4. Wrapping material according to claim 2, wherein the elastane filament yarn has a titer range from 45 to 160 dtex, the wrapping material has a titer range from 22 to 78 dtex and the wrapping material has a number range from Nm 30 to Nm 12.
EP82105364A 1981-07-02 1982-06-18 Elastic covering yarn Expired EP0069878B1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19813126016 DE3126016A1 (en) 1981-07-02 1981-07-02 ELASTIC STRAPPING YARN
DE3126016 1981-07-02

Publications (2)

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EP0069878A1 true EP0069878A1 (en) 1983-01-19
EP0069878B1 EP0069878B1 (en) 1985-09-11

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US (1) US4470250A (en)
EP (1) EP0069878B1 (en)
JP (1) JPS588147A (en)
KR (1) KR880000294B1 (en)
DE (2) DE3126016A1 (en)
ES (1) ES8607433A1 (en)
HK (1) HK14286A (en)

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CN104088051A (en) * 2014-07-17 2014-10-08 苏州华良化纤纺织有限公司 Anti-static stretch covering yarn
CN105483884A (en) * 2014-09-17 2016-04-13 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 Colored polyesters and viscose blended siro-and-compact spinning yarns and manufacturing process
EP2594670B1 (en) * 2011-11-21 2017-08-30 New Horizon Elastic Fabric Co. Fabric strap with soft side edges
CN108728970A (en) * 2018-07-12 2018-11-02 四川省宜宾惠美线业有限责任公司 A kind of polyamide fibre strand is twisted together the complex yarn and preparation method thereof of short rayon fiber yarn

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US2042910A (en) * 1936-02-26 1936-06-02 Silverman Leo Compound elastic thread
GB482932A (en) * 1937-02-23 1938-04-07 James R Kendrick Co Inc Improvements in elastic threads
GB517978A (en) * 1938-08-12 1940-02-14 Philip Ernest Frank Clay Improvements in or relating to elastic thread and fabrics embodying such thread
GB511408A (en) * 1939-02-11 1939-08-17 Robert Pickles Improvements relating to the manufacture of elastic threads
FR1368664A (en) * 1963-07-15 1964-07-31 Alamance Ind Inc Stockings with varicose veins or the like and method for making such stockings
US3438193A (en) * 1965-09-14 1969-04-15 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Composite yarn and its manufacturing method
DE2207614A1 (en) * 1970-05-18 1973-09-06 Toray Industries COATED ELASTIC YARN AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING IT
FR2477583A1 (en) * 1980-03-07 1981-09-11 Payen Et Cie Sa L Double-wrapped elastic yarn - provides method of forming extensible hem for e.g. clothing

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0124817A2 (en) * 1983-05-04 1984-11-14 Bayer Ag Elastic woven fabric and method for its manufacture
EP0124817A3 (en) * 1983-05-04 1985-04-10 Bayer Ag Elastic woven fabric and method for its manufacture
US5572860A (en) * 1991-09-22 1996-11-12 Nitto Boseki Co., Ltd. Fusible adhesive yarn
EP0548474A1 (en) * 1991-12-11 1993-06-30 Nitto Boseki Co., Ltd. Fusible adhesive yarn
EP0648873A1 (en) * 1993-10-15 1995-04-19 Toray Industries, Inc. Hosiery and process for producing the same
FR2772396A1 (en) * 1997-12-16 1999-06-18 Roudiere Sa Stretch fabric
EP2594670B1 (en) * 2011-11-21 2017-08-30 New Horizon Elastic Fabric Co. Fabric strap with soft side edges
CN104088051A (en) * 2014-07-17 2014-10-08 苏州华良化纤纺织有限公司 Anti-static stretch covering yarn
CN105483884A (en) * 2014-09-17 2016-04-13 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 Colored polyesters and viscose blended siro-and-compact spinning yarns and manufacturing process
CN105483884B (en) * 2014-09-17 2017-07-28 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 A kind of colored terylene and viscose blended match network compact spinning and manufacturing process
CN108728970A (en) * 2018-07-12 2018-11-02 四川省宜宾惠美线业有限责任公司 A kind of polyamide fibre strand is twisted together the complex yarn and preparation method thereof of short rayon fiber yarn
CN108728970B (en) * 2018-07-12 2021-12-03 四川省宜宾惠美线业有限责任公司 Composite yarn of nylon strand twisted viscose staple fiber yarn and preparation method thereof

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
HK14286A (en) 1986-03-07
KR880000294B1 (en) 1988-03-19
JPS588147A (en) 1983-01-18
ES513643A0 (en) 1986-05-16
DE3126016A1 (en) 1983-01-13
KR840000691A (en) 1984-02-27
US4470250A (en) 1984-09-11
ES8607433A1 (en) 1986-05-16
DE3266176D1 (en) 1985-10-17
EP0069878B1 (en) 1985-09-11

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