EA025061B1 - Therapeutic and cosmetic emulsion cream - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to perfume and cosmetics industry and concerns a composition for preparation of a therapeutic and cosmetic cream based on natural biologically active components, intended for treatment of skin lesions, dermatosis, elimination of peeling, removal of superficial comedones, nourishment and recovery of face skin, namely to emulsion creams water-oil. The task of the disclosed invention is to create a novel soft emulsion cream - means that contains complex of biologically active substances, possessing wide spectrum of action on face skin of different age. The task set is achieved by that the therapeutic and cosmetic emulsion cream for treatment of face skin against dermatosis contains phytocomplex of medicinal plants liquorice, green tea, Salvia officinalis, rosemary, taken in equal parts in form of water-alcohol-oil extract with content of 40% ethyl alcohol and almond oil in ratio 2:3, where the cream also contains glycyrrhizic acid, emulsifier T2 in mixture with cocoa butter in ratio 1:1, nipagine, bee wax, vitamin E, vitamin C, propylene glycol, rosemary essential oil as odorant, purified water with the following quantitative ratio of ingredients, wt.%: water-alcohol-oil extract of medicinal plants in ratio 1:1:1-50-60; glycyrrhizic acid - 0.1-0.2; emulsifier T2 in mixture with cocoa butter with ratio 1:1-11-22; vitamin E - 0.1-0.3; vitamin C - 0.1-0.3; bee wax - 5.0-7.0; propyleneglycol - 3.0-5.0; rosemary essential oil as odorant - 1.0-2.0; nipagine - 0.03-0.05; purified water - the rest.

Description

The invention relates to the perfumery and cosmetic industry and relates to a composition for the preparation of a cosmetic cream based on natural biologically active components, intended for the treatment of skin lesions, dermatoses, peeling removal, removal of surface comedones, nutrition and healing of facial skin, namely, water emulsion creams /oil.

In modern cosmetology, various artificially synthesized components have been widely used recently, which can cause skin irritating, sensitizing and allergic effects in a significant part of patients. The use in cream cosmetology only based on natural components can significantly reduce their negative effects on the skin and increase the effectiveness of therapeutic and preventive effects.

The latest achievement of cosmetology in products for sensitive skin is the use of special immunostimulating substances that enhance the protective mechanisms of the skin.

A cosmetic product for skin care based on phytoestrogens is known, and as a source of phytoestrogens, the product contains soybean seed extract (soy milk fermented with lactobacilli), angelica root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, licorice root and leaf extract, oil and sage leaf extract nutmeg, Belamkanda Chinese bulb extract (leopard lily), red clover flower extract, apple seed oil, avocado fruit oil, pea seed extract, leaf extract forest vineyard (ampelosis), banana flower extract, peanut seed shell extract, raspberry leaf extract, quince seed shell extract, sirokikurage mushroom extract (silver ear, fucus trefoil) and mandarin oat zest and pulp, (RF patent No. 2414885, publ. 27.03 .2011).

The disadvantage of this tool is multicomponent and many components are not always available for use.

Known agent containing a bioactive component, which is an extract of medicinal herbs selected from the group of licorice, chamomile, rosemary, elderberry, sage, pine, horsetail, black currant, horse chestnut, mint, lingonberry, cypress, seaweed, green coffee, tea , oats, dogrose, clover, henna, nettle, calendula, burdock, burdock, and a gel base, including Ναί'Ί (rock salt), ethyl cellulose hydroxide, glycerin, preservative and water in a certain ratio of ingredients. As a preservative, the product contains hermaben. (patent No. 2350317, publ. 03/27/2009).

Although licorice, sage, rosemary and green tea are included in the gel base, their mixture is not considered in this invention.

Closest to the claimed is a cosmetic cosmetic product - an emulsion cream based on glycyrrhizic acid, which includes: water-alcohol and oil extract (two-phase extractant system) of a mixture of licorice, medicinal sage and green tea, nipagin, propylene glycol, vitamin E, beeswax, an extractant consisting of ethyl alcohol and olive oil in a ratio of 2: 3 and an emulsifier T2 (L / saueap TFF 1itiab, 2012, Νο. 3, 8. 48-52).

However, the above-mentioned cream, although it has a pronounced regenerative, reparative, keratolytic and antioxidant (anti-aging) effect, is aimed at treating more complex diseases of the epidermis (psoriasis, pemphigus). These diseases are very complex and require the use of a more aggressive foundation to combat them.

The objective of the invention is the creation of a new, soft emulsion cream means containing a complex of biologically active substances with a wide spectrum of action on the skin of the face of different ages.

This goal is achieved by the fact that a therapeutic and cosmetic emulsion cream for treating facial skin from dermatoses, containing phytosolving of medicinal plants, licorice, green tea, medicinal sage, rosemary, which are taken in equal parts in the form of a water-alcohol-oil extract with a content of 40% ethyl alcohol and almond oil at a ratio of 2: 3, where the cream also contains glycyrrhizic acid, T2 emulsifier mixed with cocoa butter at a ratio of 1: 1, nipagin, beeswax, vitamin E, vitamin C, propylene glycol, ethereal rosemary oil as a perfume, purified water in the following quantitative ratio of ingredients, wt.%:

water-alcohol-oil extract of medicinal plants with a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1 - 50-60; glycyrrhizic acid - 0.1-0.2;

emulsifier T2 in a mixture with small cocoa at a ratio of 1: 1 - 11-22;

Vitamin E - 0.1-0.3;

Vitamin C - 0.1-0.3;

beeswax - 5.0-7.0;

propylene glycol - 3.0-5.0;

rosemary essential oil as a perfume - 1.0-2.0; nipagin - 0.03-0.05; purified water - the rest.

The essence of the proposed cosmetic products lies in the fact that the beneficial effect of the selected combination of cosmetic products is due to good penetration

- 1 025061 compositions, namely biologically active substances contained in the extract. The optimal combination of environmentally friendly natural products provides a soft, gentle effect on the skin of any type, suitable for any age. This cream nourishes the skin well and is effective for smoothing both fine and deep wrinkles.

Vitamin C - (ascorbic acid GOST 7047-55) - a water-soluble antioxidant that protects the skin from UV radiation, enhances collagen synthesis in the skin, accelerates wound healing, and slows down aging. When its content is less than 0.1%, the effect is markedly reduced, and at a concentration of more than 0.3% it practically does not increase.

Vitamin E - (tocopherol acetate - GOST-27547-87) has antioxidant properties, due to which the skin aging process slows down, the level of inflammatory processes on the skin decreases, cell respiration is stimulated, skin cell membranes are strengthened. When its content is less than 0.1%, the effect is markedly reduced, and at a concentration of more than 0.3% it practically does not increase.

Nipagin - (FS42-1460-89) is a preservative. The optimal effect of nipagin in this composition is observed at a concentration of 0.3-0.5%. When its content is less than 0.3%, the effect is markedly reduced, and at a concentration of more than 0.5% it practically does not increase.

Purified water - (FS22-619-97) is a solvent of the product, which is obtained by distillation on a DE4 brand apparatus.

Rosemary essential oil (GOST 9069-73) is associated with its ability to tone the skin, make it young and supple. Rosemary oil disinfects and has an anti-inflammatory effect and is used in this composition as a perfume, giving the cream a pleasant coniferous smell. When using it below the claimed limit, the effect is markedly reduced, and at a concentration of more than 2.0% it is not advisable.

Sage leaves contain 0.5-2.5% of essential oil and tannins, as well as about 15% of cineol, thujone and terpene. As medicinal raw materials, dried leaves of medicinal sage are used that meet the following requirements of GOST 6715-53: humidity not higher than 14%, essential oil not less than 1%, ash not more than 1%, plant parts (tops, stems, etc.) no more than 10 %, crushed parts passing through a sieve with holes with a diameter of 3 mm, not more than 3%, impurities not more than 1%.

Licorice naked (GOST 22839-88). The roots of licorice contain: glycyrrhizic acid and its potassium and calcium salts, 27 different flavonoids. In addition, licorice roots contain sugar (glucose, sucrose) up to 20%, bitter substances up to 3%, tarry substances up to 4%, starch up to 20%, essential oil, coloring matter, vitamins, ascorbic acid up to 30 mg%, carotene, tannins, mucous substances, organic acids (mainly malic), protein, asparagine, other compounds. It is used in cosmetics as an antihistamine and antispasmodic agent.

Green tea (GOST 1939-90). In cosmetology, green tea extract is used quite widely and covers cosmetics for almost all ages, due to its antiseptic and antibacterial properties, green tea extract is used in youth lines for problem skin care. Due to its regenerative properties, green tea is often used in cosmetics for mature skin. In addition, its extract contains the strongest biostimulants, moisturizers and moisture-saving substances: enzymes, vitamins and vegetable proteins, amino acids and essential oils. Green tea ingredients have good penetrating power, allowing them to act not only on the deep layers of the epidermis, but also on the dermis. At the same time, they enhance microcirculation in tissues, stimulate the production of skin's own collagen. Such cosmetics relieve inflammation and redness, eliminate excess oiliness, and help the skin acquire a healthy appearance.

The high content of essential oil and antioxidants in rosemary helps to cleanse the skin and reduce sweating. Rosemary contains such components that have the greatest therapeutic effect, among them such as eucalyptus, borneol, camphor, verbena and alfapinene, which create a refreshing smell inherent in rosemary. Also in rosemary is a large number of flavonoids - apigenin and luteolin. Taken together, these substances create the healing effect of rosemary.

The combination of a mixture of water-alcohol-oil extracts below the claimed limit does not give the desired effect, and above the claimed limit can lead to hypersensitivity and skin irritation.

Propylene glycol (TU24-22069-05766801-97) has good softening and moisturizing properties. Upon completion of the required time below the claimed limit does not have the required moisturizing effect, and above the claimed limit leads to rapid rancidity of the product.

Glycyrrhizic acid has antiviral, anti-inflammatory, antipruritic and immunomodulatory effects. Glycyrrhizic acid has a membrane protective effect, reducing the intensity of lipid peroxidation by binding of free radicals and toxic oxidation products. When using it below the claimed limit, hypersensitivity may occur.

- 2 025061

Beeswax (GOST 21179-2000) has softening, nourishing and anti-inflammatory properties. When used below the claimed mixture is mixed with the mass obtained in the first stage using a mixer (1000 rpm), then glycyrrhizic acid and vitamin C previously dissolved in purified water are added to the mixture and mixed using a mixer. The resulting cream does not thicken, and above the claimed hardening of the cream occurs.

The proposed emulsion cream is prepared as follows. At the first stage, the basis is prepared by two-phase water-alcohol extraction of a mixture of plants. To do this, the phyto-collection, crushed to 2-3 cm, is placed in a 500-ml three-necked flask (connected to a reflux condenser, stirrer and funnel). Previously, for complete wetting, the mixture of crushed medicinal plants is poured with 20 ml of 95% alcohol, leaving for 30 minutes with constant stirring, then the alcohol is drained. Next to this mass is added an extractant consisting of a mixture of a 40% alcohol-water solution and almond oil taken in a ratio of 2: 3, after thorough mixing, extraction is carried out at a temperature of not more than 65-70 ° C in a water bath for 60 min At the end of the process, T-2 emulsifier and cocoa butter, taken in equal amounts, are added to the flask, and extraction is continued for 30 minutes.

The resulting mass in the form of heat is filtered through a four-layer cheesecloth into a mortar preheated to 65-70 ° C. Emulsification of the drained mass is carried out using a mixer until a homogeneous mass of light brownish-green color is obtained. Then, vitamin E and propylene glycol are successively added to the beeswax, melted in advance at a temperature of 50-60 ° C in a water bath and cooled to 30 ° C. Nipagin is added to the mixture as a preservative and rosemary essential oil and purified water is used as a perfume, and everything is mixed with a mixer (1000 rpm) until a homogeneous creamy mass of light greenish color with a pleasant specific odor is obtained.

Examples of the proposed emulsion cream are presented in the table.

No. p / p The composition of the emulsion cream Organoleptic In one- alcoholic- oil extract phyto-collection Propylene- glycol Mixture Emulsion gator Nipagin Vitamin FROM Vitamin E Bees ny wax Ogdushka Purified water Colour Smell 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 nine 10 eleven 12 50,0 s oh ] 1,0 0,03 OD od 5.0 1,0 29.77 Light beige, soft coxinsence Slightly coniferous smell 2 55.0 4.0 17.0 0.04 0.2 0.2 6.0 1,5 16.6 Beige greenish, soft consensus Smell needles 3 60.0 5,0 22.0 0.05 0.3 0.3 2.0 2.0 3.35 Brownish green more viscous consensus Smell pleasant needles

The following are examples of the use of the proposed therapeutic and cosmetic cream in the Baku leather dispensary in the department of cosmetic treatment of the epidermis.

Example 1

Patient Samedova S. (30 years old) complained of dry skin, tightness of her face after bathing, irritation and peeling. The proposed therapeutic cosmetic emulsion cream was prescribed. To do this, the proposed cream was applied overnight to the face previously cleansed with baby soap and steamed skin. After 10 days from the start of the treatment, the irritation and tension of the skin disappeared. After a week, irritation and itching from the face decreased significantly, peeling disappeared. At the end of the course of treatment (1 month), the face skin became soft, dryness disappeared.

Example 2

Patient Aliev G. (22 years old) was admitted with complaints of acne and increased oily skin of the face and upper forehead. The whole face, and especially the frontal part, passing to the upper part of the head under the hairline was covered with blackheads, the skin was dirty, gray. The claimed cream was prescribed for 20 days. The patient rubbed at night on cleansed (washing with baby soap) and steamed skin, especially carefully in places of the greatest accumulation of blackheads (frontal part of the face and chin and around the nose). The patient was instructed to monitor daily stool and restriction in the use of smoked meats, alcohol, spicy and fatty foods. After the course of treatment, acne disappeared, the skin became clean and had a healthy appearance. It was suggested to repeat this course after a month to eliminate relapses.

Example 3

Patient L. Bagirova (39 years old) complained of increased oily skin, especially in the forehead, nose and chin. The claimed cream was prescribed for 15 days. The patient rubbed at night on cleansed and steamed skin, especially carefully in places of the greatest accumulation of blackheads

- 3 025061 (frontal part of the face, chin and the area around the nose). Improvement was noted already on the 5th day. The skin became firm and no longer shiny. At the end of using the proposed cream, the skin became elastic, the pores narrowed, the oily sheen disappeared. To consolidate the positive effect, it was proposed to continue treatment for a month every other day.

Thus, the proposed cream helps the skin acquire a healthy appearance, smoothes both fine and deep wrinkles.

Claims (1)

CLAIM Therapeutic and cosmetic emulsion cream for the treatment of facial skin from dermatoses, containing phytosolving of medicinal plants licorice, green tea, medicinal sage, rosemary, which are taken in equal parts in the form of a water-alcohol-oil extract containing 40% ethyl alcohol and almond oils at a ratio of 2: 3, where the cream also contains glycyrrhizic acid, T2 emulsifier mixed with cocoa butter at a ratio of 1: 1, nipagin, beeswax, vitamin E, vitamin C, propylene glycol, rosemary essential oil as a perfume, och searched water in the following quantitative ratio of ingredients, wt.%: water-alcohol-oil extract of medicinal plants with a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1 - 50-60; glycyrrhizic acid - 0.1-0.2; emulsifier T2 in a mixture with cocoa butter at a ratio of 1: 1 - 11-22; Vitamin E - 0.1-0.3; Vitamin C - 0.1-0.3; beeswax - 5.0-7.0; propylene glycol - 3.0-5.0; rosemary essential oil as a perfume - 1.0-2.0; nipagin - 0.03-0.05; purified water - the rest.