DE3230237A1 - GRADING INSTRUMENT - Google Patents

Description

GLAWE, DELFS, MOLL & PARTNER

Harry Leslie Potts Point, Australia

"Graduation Instrument"

PATENT LAWYERS 3 2 30 23 7 EUROPEAN PATENT TORNEYS

RICHARD QLAWE
DR-INO. KLAUS DELFS
DIPL.ING WALTER MOLL
DIPL-PHYS. DR. RER. NAT.
OFF. BEST INTERPRETER ULRICHMENGDEHL
DIPL.-CHEM DR. RER NAT
HEINRICH NIEBUHR
DIPL.-PHYS. DR. PHIL HABIL 8000 MUNICH 26
PO Box 162
LIEBHERRSTH 20
TEL. (089) 226548
TELEX 5 22 505 SPEC
TELECOPI ER (0 89) 22 39 38 2000 HAMBURG 13
PO Box 2570
ROTHENBAUM-
CHAUSSEE 58
TEL (040) 4102008
TELEX 212 921 SPEC MUNICH A 18

description

The invention relates to a grading instrument, in particular, but not exclusively, for grading pattern parts from clothing to larger or smaller outlines while maintaining the correct proportions to manufacture.

The present invention can be used whenever any two-dimensional figure is to be enlarged or reduced to scale. Therefore that can
Also an instrument in the shoe industry or as an aid

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BANK: DRESDNER BANK, HAMBURG. 4030448 (BLZ 20080000) POSTSCHECK; HAMBURG 147607-200 (BLZ 20ΟΊΟΟ2Ο) TELEGRAM SPECHTZiES

be used for a craftsman, architect or planner.

The device was especially developed for the grading of cut pieces or "blocks" in the clothing industry to simplify. When a garment has been designed, there are blocks of its individual pieces of the garment is generally made in a model or standard size (e.g. a size 92 cm for the waist size of a pair of pants). However, information "in the form of pairs of digits is provided to ensure a grading, i.e. resizing the block to obtain a number of larger and smaller standard sizes to undertake. It is common practice for men's trousers to be four smaller sizes, e.g. 87.82.77 and 72 cm and four larger sizes, e.g. 97,102,107 and cm. It should be noted that these sizes are in stages vary by 5 cm; however, other levels are common for women's and children's clothing, for example levels with 2 cm, 3 cm or 4 cm.

to form the necessary measurements for grading the block, Numbers are given at predetermined points along the outline of the pattern, which are used to determine of the other sizes can be used, usually a horizontal and a vertical dimension is provided,

to construct a new point, the one at the largest or smallest graded size represents the same point as the standard size. Then between the points the standard size and the largest and smallest size a line is drawn to form the three larger or smaller Intermediate sizes are divided into four equal parts. In Fig. 2A (described below) there is a Sewing patterns with conventional vertical and horizontal dimensions that graded the manufacture of the smallest and largest Allow size shown.

- However, this process is time-consuming and requires a well-trained specialist (for example a pattern cutter or grader). To grade each point there are at least six measurements required, i.e. a horizontal measurement followed by:

vertical measurement to create the point of greatest size. Then the points become the largest and the standard size connected together and another measurement is required to divide the connection into four equal parts subdivide, which represent the intermediate sizes. The process is then repeated for the smaller sizes.

The object of the invention is to create a device that enables these measurements to be carried out more simply and quickly enables.

According to the invention, this object is achieved by a Instrument used for grading the two-dimensional outline of a standard size for making graded Outlines of larger and smaller sizes with appropriate proportions can be used, consisting of a sheet of transparent material with several straight rows of holes through the sheet, each Row has a predetermined number of holes, the are arranged in a straight line on both sides of an alignment mark, and the holes and the alignment mark be equally spaced along the row in order to divide the row into equal sections, wherein further each alignment mark a point for positioning over a point of the standard outline to be graded and an alignment guideline which is a given direction for aligning the panel relative to the standard outline and with all alignment markings of all rows parallel to each other and each row is at a predetermined angle relative to the alignment of its respective alignment mark.

The board is made of a transparent material, for example

paperJ
wise Transparent ^ oaer a transparent plastic, such as Perspex, made so that the alignment marking of the device can be brought to exactly coincide with the corresponding point of the standard two-dimensional outline.

The holes are arranged so that each hole of the graduated size has a point corresponding to that on the standard outline the intended point. If four larger and four smaller sizes are to be provided, then the board is provided with a row with four holes, the alignment mark and another four holes, the holes and the alignment mark are equally spaced along the row. The distance depends of course from the degree of enlargement or reduction at this point of the outline and also from the particular one used size level.

The mechanical function of the holes is that they are used to mark the base at the intended position a marking device, for example an awl or other pointed instrument. In general If the hole is not larger than necessary to enable marking, in order to improve the accuracy of the marking

to ensure.

The alignment mark is preferably a cross with vertical and horizontal arms. A similar cross is shown in the generally be indicated at the appropriate point on the standard outline and represents the alignment of the crosses the correct alignment of the rows of holes. Therefore, the alignment mark on the board will be at an appropriate angle have to the row of holes. Preferably the center of the cross is also provided with a hole through it which an awl, pen, or similar device can be used to align on the standard outline facilitate.

In general, the panel is provided with several rows of holes, each row of holes having its own alignment mark having. The distance between the holes and the angle of the row to the alignment mark will depend on the degree of required Enlargement or reduction in size at this point on the outline varies and depends on the direction in which the enlargement takes place. For a grading device for items of clothing, there are up to 50 rows of holes with different Distances and orientations provided to suit commonly used grade levels. To the club

/ 70

Fachung is each row of holes with an identifying symbol, for example a number, that corresponds to a given pair corresponds to vertical and horizontal dimensions at a predetermined spacing level. With suitable alignment of the grading instrument, a single row of holes can be used to create up to four different grades perform. The mirror image of a number can be reversed of the instrument and using the other side. Turning the instrument 90 ° also creates two white alignments. Thus, a large number of dimensions can be achieved by a relatively simple instrument.

The instrument can also drill holes for marking points along a single line, i.e. in a vertical one or horizontal direction. Furthermore, the instrument can have other useful dimensions such as a Have measuring scale and is expediently to facilitate use in the form of a right-angled, isosceles Triangular.

Once all of the relevant points on the outline have been graded, the new points are used the original cutting pattern outline by hand connected to draw the enlarged or reduced outline size.

An embodiment of the present invention will be illustrated by means of the following figures and tables are described in detail. It shows:

1 shows a table for explaining the principle of the invention;

Fig. 2 shows a pattern for a pair of pants together with

(A) the previous type of grade measurements;

(B) with the identifying digits for use of the device according to the present invention; and

(C) the graded pattern with the largest and smallest sizes;

3 shows a grading instrument according to the present invention.

Table 1 shows the symbols of the angular series which are used in the grading instrument according to FIG. 3 and which corresponding pairs of vertical and horizontal dimensions «

Table 2 shows the symbols and corresponding pairs of dimensions

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analogous to those shown in Table 1, when the instrument is turned 90 ° to the side; and

Table 3 shows the symbols corresponding to the non-angled rows.

In Fig. 2 (A) the outline of a pattern for a front part of a pair of pants is shown (of course two front parts and two back parts «made from the fabric are required for the trousers). All prominent points along the Circumferential lines (A) are marked according to the procedure according to the prior art with individual dimensions and pairs of dimensions, the represent the amount by which the standard outline is to be graded. The individual dimensions relate to grading by a single dimension in the specified direction to produce the largest or smallest size. The measurement pairs refer to focus on a horizontal dimension (the upper digit) and a vertical dimension (the lower digit) that are used to generate of a point according to the largest or smallest size corresponding to the same point of the standard size will. There are three sizes in between the largest size and the standard size. Similarly, there are four scaled-down ones Sizes.

The previously known grading process is described below

described. For example, if the top left corner of the trouser pattern is taken, it will be used for manufacturing the largest size graded by 2.5 cm horizontally to the left and then 1.25 cm vertically upwards will. The point reached represents the point of greatest size and this is indicated by a line with the point connected to the standard size. This line is then divided into four equal parts at the appropriate points of intermediate sizes. A similar process is required to produce the small sizes. Of the The process is time consuming and typically six independent measurements are used to grade each point needed.

However, this process is very simplified when the instrument according to the present invention is used, Such an instrument is shown in FIG. Its principle is based on FIG. 1 and with reference to Fig. 2 (B) explains.

Each pair of horizontal and vertical dimensions used together is given a symbol (the symbol of the above described point is 9S). Tables 1 and 3

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purify one of these number schemes.

Table 1 gives the base number for each pair of measurements. The corresponding row of holes is in the instrument according to FIG. 3 included. Each number gives four separate orientations (if the angle of the series is 45 ° is different) indicated as, for example, 9, 9R, 9S and 9SR. These changes are made through Rotating the instrument and obtained by turning the instrument upside down.

If the instrument is to be rotated 90 ° before use, the letter "S" will be added to the outline shown symbol, for example 9S (see Fig. 2 (B)) is used. When the transparent instrument is turned upside down (i.e. turned), the letter "R", for example 9R, is used. If the instrument has both should be turned sideways as well as flipped, the letter "SR" is used, for example 9SR.

Fig. 1 shows how the four separate measurements from the single row of holes 9 of the instrument by simple Rotating and inverting the instrument can be achieved according to the symbols on the standard outline.

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In Table 1, forty angle etchings are shown. The gradations 18 to 23 are at 45 °, so that the lateral rotation or reversal is only one at a time further alignment result. The 40 basic numbers result in a total of 148 different dimensions.

Table 3 shows symbols A through I for certain useful ones Non-angular dimensions. These are placed along the edge of the instrument, as shown in Fig. 3, arranged.

The gradations shown in Table 1 and FIG. 3 are for size grades of 2, 3.4 and 5 cm for garments suitable, but corresponding gradations can of course be used for other sizes (for example legal dimensions). Alternatively, a new table and grading device can be used if necessary getting produced.

The grader according to the present invention can be used as follows. It is assumed, that the grading of the pattern according to FIG. 2 begins at the upper right corner and takes place in a clockwise direction. With reference to the outline A, the upper right point must be graded 2.5 cm horizontally and 1.25 cm vertically, to create a point of largest size. Then will

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the intermediate sizes manufactured. This is done by placing the grading instrument over the outer line and aligning the Cross on row 9 (which indicates the pair of measurements 2.5 cm and 1.25 cm) to the corresponding point on the upper right Corner of the outline easily done. However, since the identification letter is on the outline B 9S, it is necessary to turn the instrument by 90 ° until the alignment cross lies in a vertical / horizontal direction. The device is expediently on the outline positioned by means of an awl which is pushed through a hole trader alignment mark. Then 8 Markings are made using the awl by piercing through the 8 holes in the row to make the 4 smaller and 4 larger sizes to be graded. The instrument is then removed from the outline.

The process is repeated for the next points 9SR. In order to achieve the correct alignment of the holes, the instrument turned sideways and vice versa.

As can be seen from Table 3, the next Point D represents a horizontal graduation of 2.5 cm (which is divided into equal parts). This is achieved by the row of grading instruments marked with G

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is applied over the point on the outline so that the Row in the horizontal direction and the eight points are marked again.

The point 1S is marked by the alignment mark of point 1 is brought into line with the outline and then the device is rotated laterally. The eight points are then marked as above.

The point indicated by the symbol 22R is marked after the instrument has been turned over before placing it on the outline.

When all the points have been marked, they can be connected to one another to create the outlines according to the to form four larger and four smaller sizes. Fig. (C) shows the largest and smallest sizes in dashed lines Line. It should be noted that the use of the instrument according to the present invention is much faster Grading of a standard outline with a lower error rate than with conventional methods enables.

Furthermore, the construction of the instrument allows each row of holes to be used for up to four separate ones Measurement operations; making a compact instrument

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has been created with great versatility. The instrument shown in FIG. 3 can measure 157 separate series of measurements create.

The numbers on the "front" of the instrument are shown in black, while the numbers on the "back" are shown in red to avoid errors. Furthermore, the identification digits are given on the front to the left of the respective alignment mark / while these (in red) on the back to the right of the sindy
Marking indicatedfThese two arrangements help to avoid errors in the use of the instrument.

A pair of “front” and “front, turned sideways” appear on the front to ensure correct alignment of the instrument by the user. A corresponding pair of instructions (in red) appears the back with "back" and "back, turned sideways". There is a further security against errors in that each number is upright in the normal position of the device, so that when the instrument is turned sideways is, the number also appears to the side. In fact (as shown in FIG. 1) the correct

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Align the instrument simply by looking at the position and aligning the identification digits (i.e. left / right of the marking and upright / to the side).

In general, the instrument is provided with an awl, the tip of which is dimensioned to the pierce numerous holes in the instrument.

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Table 1

-Ic-

1
0.625 2
0.5 3
0.625 H
0.625 5
0.5 6th
0.8 7th
0.8 8th
1.0 1.25 2.0 2.5 2.Ö " 2.0 2.5 2.5 9
1.25 10
1.0 11th
1.0 12th
ο.β 13th
1.25 ία
1.0 15th
1.5 16
1,875 2.5 2.0 1.25 1.25 1,875 1.5 2.5 2.5 17th
2.0
275 18th
2.5 19th
2.0
27Ö 20th
1,875
Γ7875 21
1.5
1.5 22nd
1.25
1.25 23
1.0
1.0 2α
1.0
Γ7875 " 25th
0.625
5.0 26th
0.5
ϊΤδ 27
1.0
57Ö 28
1.25 29
1.S
57Ö 30th
1,975 31
1.5
475 32
1.0
4.0 33
0.8 3Ί
0.5 35
0.75 36
1.0 37
2.5 38
2.0 39
1.5 HQ
2.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 3.0

Table 2

IS 2S 3S IS 5S 29S 6S 7S 8S 1.25
Ö762? 1.5
δΤΤ 2.0
0.625 2.5
ÖT62I 2.0
ÖT5 5.0
Γ75 2.0
δΤϊ 2.5
Ö7I 2.5
1.0 9S 10S HS 12S 13S 37S 14S 15S 16S 2.5 2.0 1.25 1.25 1,875 5.0
2.5 1.5 2.5 2.5 1.25 1.0 1.0 0.3 1.25 1.0 1.5 1,875 17S
2.5 Just Angular dimensions 2 «
1,875 2.0 1.0 25S 26S 27S 28S 30S 31S 32S 5.0
0.625 4.0
Ö7S 5.0
I7Ö 5.0
Ϊ7Ι5 5.0
1,875 4.0
ITT 4.0
1.0 33S 34S 35S 36S 38S 39S WS 4.0
ΟΤΪ 3.0
OTf 3.0
οΤτΤ 3.0
1.0 4.0
2.0 3.0
1.5 3.0
2.0

Table 3

A. 2.0

B 3.0

C 4.0

O 2.5

E 3.5

F 1,875

G 1.5

H 5.0

I 1.25

Claims (8)

Claims 1. Instrument for grading a two-dimensional Outline of a standard size for creating graduated outlines of larger and smaller sizes with appropriate proportions, characterized by: A sheet of transparent material with several straight rows of holes through the sheet; where each Row has a predetermined number of holes in a straight line on both sides of an alignment mark are arranged, and the holes and the BANK: DRESDNER BANK. HAMBURG. 4030448 (BLZ 20080000) - POST CHECK: HAMBURG 147607-200 (BLZ 20010020) TELEGRAM: SPECHTZIES Alignment markings are equally spaced along the row / to divide the row into equal sections, each alignment mark also having a point for positioning over a point of the standard outline to be graded and an alignment guideline which is a given direction for aligning the panel relative to the Standard outline defined, and with all alignments of alignment markings of all rows parallel to each other and each row at a predetermined angle relative to the alignment of its respective alignment mark expires. 2. Instrument according to claim 1, characterized in that the panel is made of transparent material has the shape of an isosceles right triangle. 3. Instrument according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that each row has eight bores equidistant from one another, four on each side of the associated alignment mark to each Divide row into eight parts. 4. Instrument according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that each row with an identification symbol is provided, which on indicated on the board near the relevant row is. 5. Instrument according to claim 4, characterized in that the identification symbol is each Row is arranged on one side of the board and each Row marked with the same identification symbol in a different color on the other side of the board igt. 6. Instrument according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the point of each alignment mark is a hole. 7. Instrument according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that each alignment line forms one arm of a cross which is two on either side forms right-angled directions. 8. Instrument according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the instrument is provided with a marking awl, the tip of which is so dimensioned is that it fits through the holes for the markings and graduated sizes.