DE102022200858A1 - Process for improving the feel of colored keratin fibers, especially human hair - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject matter of the present invention is a method for improving the feel of keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, an aqueous post-treatment agent being applied to the colored keratin fibers which(N-1) has a pH value from 7.5 to 12.0.

Description

The subject matter of the present application is a method for improving the feel of keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, with an aqueous aftertreatment agent having a pH of 7.5 to 12.0 being applied to the colored keratin fibers.

A second subject of this application is a method for dyeing and after-treating keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which first a dye containing at least one aminosilicone and at least one pigment is used and then the previously described after-treatment agent is applied.

A third subject matter of the present application is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) which contains the colorant and aftertreatment agent described above in separately prepared containers.

A fourth subject matter of the present application is the use of the aftertreatment agent described above to improve the feel of colored keratin fibers.

Changing the shape and color of keratin material, in particular human hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. The person skilled in the art knows various coloring systems for changing the hair color, depending on the coloring requirements. Oxidation colorants are usually used for permanent, intensive colorations with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes among themselves under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation coloring agents are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

When using substantive dyes, dyes that have already formed diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. In comparison to oxidative hair coloring, the colorings obtained with substantive dyes are less durable and can be washed out more quickly. Dyes with direct dyes usually remain on the hair for a period of between 5 and 20 hair washes.

The use of color pigments is known for short-term color changes on the hair. Pigments or color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present in undissolved form in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are only deposited from the outside on the keratin fibers or on the hair fibers. Therefore, they can usually be removed without leaving any residue with a few washes with detergents containing surfactants. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara.

If the user wants particularly long-lasting colorations, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been his only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant smell of ammonia or amines cannot be completely avoided in oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of the oxidative colorants also has a disadvantageous effect on the user's hair. A continuing challenge is therefore the search for alternative, high-performance staining processes. A possible, alternative coloring system, which has recently attracted increasing attention, is based on the use of colored pigments.

Coloring with pigments offers several significant advantages. Since the pigments only attach themselves to the keratin fibers, in particular to the hair fibers, from the outside, the damage associated with the coloring process is particularly low. Furthermore, colorations that are no longer desired can be removed quickly and easily without leaving any residue and in this way offer the user the opportunity to return to their original hair color immediately and without great effort. This coloring process is therefore particularly attractive, particularly for consumers who do not want to have their hair regularly recolored.

The problem of the low durability of this dyeing system was addressed in current work. In this context, it was found that the wash fastness of the color results obtained with pigments can be improved by combining the pigments with certain amino-functionalized silicone polymers could be greatly improved. In addition, by choosing particularly suitable pigments and pigment concentrations, it was possible to achieve a lighter color result on dark hair, so that with this coloring system even lightening was possible, which was previously only possible with oxidative hair treatment agents (bleaching or bleaching agents).

However, besides these many advantages, the pigment-based coloring system still has some disadvantages. Since both the pigments and the aminosilicones, which immobilize the pigments, are deposited on the surface of the hair fiber, its surface structure is modified by the formation of a film. Depending on the thickness of the film formed, this modification can also be associated with a change in the haptic impression of the hair fibers, ranging from the feeling of having weighed down or greasy hair to a rough, shaggy or straw-like feel of the hair.

It was the object of the present invention to provide a pigment-based dyeing system which enables intensive color results with good hair feel. A technology was sought that would make it possible to fix colored pigments on the hair as permanently as possible without the hair feeling weighed down, greasy, unnatural, straw-like or coated. A special focus of the task was to achieve intensive, wash-fast color results with good hair feel at the same time.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that keratinic fibers which had previously been colored by the use of aminosilicones and pigments can then be greatly improved in terms of their hair feel and their hair structure if they are aftertreated with a special aftertreatment agent. Here, the aftertreatment agent is characterized in that it contains water and has a pH of 7.5 to 12.0.

• (N-1) einen pH-Wert von 7,5 bis 12,0 besitzt.

A first object of the present invention is a method for improving the feel of keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, with an aqueous aftertreatment agent being applied to the colored keratin fibers that

• (N-1) has a pH of 7.5 to 12.0.

• (N-1) einen pH-Wert von 7,5 bis 12,0 besitzt.

In particular, this is a method for improving the feel of human hair that has been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, with an aqueous aftertreatment agent being applied to the colored keratin fibers

• (N-1) has a pH of 7.5 to 12.0.

The work leading to this invention showed that keratin fibers, especially hair, could be intensely colored through the use of pigments. Very particularly intensive coloring results were obtained when coloring was carried out with a combination of pigment and aminosilicone. However, since the pigment or the mixture of pigment and aminosilicone was deposited on the outside of the surface of the keratin fibers, the color result was associated with a deterioration in the haptic impression of the colored fibers. The colored hair felt coated and weighed down and the presence of the pigments resulted in a very rough, unnatural hair feel. If, in addition, larger amounts of aminosilicones were used in the coloring, they also left a greasy, weighed down or oily impression on the hair. In an unforeseeable manner, it has been shown that the aftertreatment with the aftertreatment agent according to the invention leads to a significant improvement in the feel of the hair, without the colored hair suffering any major losses in terms of color intensity.

keratin fibers

Keratin fibers mean hair, wool and fur. Keratin fibers are preferably understood to mean hair, in particular human hair.

Means for coloring

In the context of this invention, the term “coloring agent” is used for a coloring of the keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, caused by the use of pigments. With this coloring the pigments are deposited as coloring compounds embedded in a film of amino silicones on the surface of the keratin fibers. The terms keratinic fibers and keratin fibers are used synonymously within the meaning of the invention.

Process for improving hand feel

An improvement in the feel is understood to mean that the colored keratin fibers, in particular human hair, leave a more natural and softer impression when they are held in the hair, and that the colored keratin fibers or the colored hair feel less weighted, greasy, oily, unnatural, straw-like, rough or coated.

The tactile feel is a sensory impression that can be felt by trained people such as hairdressers. The improvement in the feel of a strand of hair can be determined, for example, by a hairdresser or an experienced user by touching or feeling two different strands and thus comparing which of the two strands feels better, i.e. which of the two strands makes a less greasy, oily, coated, rough or strawy impression.

amino-functionalized silicone polymer in colorant

The post-treatment agent used in the method according to the invention showed a particularly strong effect when a combination of pigments with aminosilicones was used to color the keratin material or the keratin fibers.

The amino-functionalized silicone polymer may alternatively be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.

Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 500 g/mol, preferably at least 1000 g/mol, more preferably at least 2500 g/mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g/mol, which comprise repeating organic units.

The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is no more than 10 ⁷ g/mol, preferably no more than 10 ⁶ g/mol and particularly preferably no more than 10 ⁵ g/mol.

The silicone polymers comprise many Si-O repeat units, where the Si atoms can carry organic radicals such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups. Alternatively, a silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.

In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeat units and more preferably more than 100 Si-O repeat units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeat units.

An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is understood to mean a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group. The amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries a plurality of structural units each having at least one amino group. An amino group means a primary amino group, a secondary amino group and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and are then in their cationic form.

In principle, good coloring performance could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers if these carry at least one primary, at least one secondary and/or at least one tertiary amino group. However, intensive dyeings with the best fastness to washing were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer containing at least one secondary amino group was used on average.

In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer having at least one secondary amino group.

The secondary amino group(s) can be located at various positions of the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Very particularly good color results were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer was used that has at least one, preferably more, structural units of the formula (Si-amino).

In the structural units of the formula (Si-amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently stand for a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkylene group.

wobei

• ALK1 und ALK2 unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare oder verzweigte, zweiwertige C₁-C₂₀-Alkylengruppe stehen.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino),

whereby

• ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group.

The positions marked with an asterisk (*) each indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to a further oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to a further silicon atom or else to a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group.

Alternatively, a divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkylene group can also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkylene group, which means that each moiety ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.

In the case of ALK1, one bond is from the silicon atom to the ALK1 moiety, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.

In the case of ALK2, one bond is from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety and the second bond is between ALK2 and the primary amino group.

Examples of a linear divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH ₂ -), the ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -), the propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) and the butylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -). The propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched divalent C ₃ -C ₂₀ alkylene groups are (-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-) and (-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -).

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the structural units of the formula (Si-amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer, so that the silicone polymer comprises a plurality of structural units of the formula (Si-amino).

Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.

Colorings with the very best wash fastness could be obtained if at least one agent containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II) was applied to the keratin material during the previous coloring

In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II).

A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is sold commercially by the Dow Chemical Company and which bears the name "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" and the CAS number 1 06842-44-8. Another particularly preferred commercial product is Dowsil AP-8568 Amino Fluid, which is also commercially available from the Dow Chemical Company.

wobei

• - m und n bedeuten Zahlen, die so gewählt sind, daß die Summe (n + m) im Bereich von 1 bis 1000 liegt,
• - n ist eine Zahl im Bereich von 0 bis 999 und m ist eine Zahl im Bereich von 1 bis 1000,
• - R1, R2 und R3, die gleich oder verschieden sind, bedeuten eine Hydroxygruppe oder eine C1-4-Alkoxygruppe,
• - wobei mindestens eine der Gruppen R1 bis R3 eine Hydroxygruppe bedeutet;

In a further preferred embodiment, the post-treatment agent can also be used on keratin fibers which have previously been colored by using a coloring agent which contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-III),

whereby

• - m and n mean numbers chosen so that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000,
• - n is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to 1000,
• - R1, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group,
• - wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R3 represents a hydroxy group;

• - p und q bedeuten Zahlen, die so gewählt sind, daß die Summe (p + q) im Bereich von 1 bis 1000 liegt,
• - p ist eine Zahl im Bereich von 0 bis 999 und q ist eine Zahl im Bereich von 1 bis 1000,
• - R1 und R2, die verschieden sind, bedeuten eine Hydroxygruppe oder eine C1-4-Alkoxygruppe, wobei mindestens eine der Gruppen R1 bis R2 eine Hydroxygruppe bedeutet.

Further methods preferred according to the invention are characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratin fibers, the coloring agent containing at least amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-IV),

• - p and q represent numbers chosen such that the sum (p + q) is in the range from 1 to 1000,
• - p is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range from 1 to 1000,
• - R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R2 representing a hydroxy group.

The silicones of the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping on the Si atom that carries the nitrogen-containing group: In formula (Si-III), R2 denotes a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the remainder in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups, which are identified by the indices m and n or p and q, do not have to be in the form of blocks; rather, the individual units can also be randomly distributed, ie in the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) not every R1-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ group is necessarily bound to a -[O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ ] group.

in der

A

für eine Gruppe -OH, -O-Si(CH₃)₃,-O-Si(CH₃)₂OH ,-O-Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,

D

für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH₃)₃,-Si(CH₃)₂OH, -Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,

b, n und c

für ganze Zahlen zwischen 0 und 1000 stehen,

mit den Maßgaben

• - n > 0 und b + c > 0
• - mindestens eine der Bedingungen A = -OH bzw. D = -H ist erfüllt.

Processes according to the invention in which a colorant is applied to the keratin fibers which contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-V) have also proven effective with regard to the production of intensive color results

in the

A

represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₃ , -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OH , -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

D

represents a group -H, -Si(CH ₃ ) ₃ , -Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

b, n and c

stand for whole numbers between 0 and 1000,

with the stipulations

• - n > 0 and b + c > 0
• - at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is met.

In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i.e. they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.

The colorant applied previously may also contain one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers represented by the formula (Si-VI) M(RaQbSiO _(4-ab)/2)x (R _c SiO _(4-c)/2)y M (Si-VI) are described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ¹ is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2, "b" takes values ranging from about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH _{2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2} CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )C(O)OCH ₂ -, -( CH ₂ ) ₃ CC(O)OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C _{6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2} C ₆ H ₄ -; and -(CH ₂ ) ₃ C(O)SCH ₂ CH ₂ - a.

Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one amino functional group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ where z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure includes diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ group. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ where each X of X ₂ is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2, "b" takes values ranging from about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _(4-ab)/2 units to the R _c SiO _(4-c)/2 units ranges from about 1 : 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are employed, the various variable substituents in the above formula may vary with the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• - G ist-H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -O-CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -O-CH₂CH₂CH₃,-CH₂CH₂CH₃, -O-CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -O-CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, - CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, -O-CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -O-CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, - CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -O-C(CH₃)₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• - a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• - b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• - m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• - R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus
  • ◯ -Q-N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂
  • ◯ -Q-N(R'')₂
  • ◯ -Q-N⁺(R'')₃A^-
  • ◯ -Q-N⁺H(R'')₂ A^-
  • ◯ -Q-N⁺H₂(R'')A^-
  • ◯ -Q-N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^-,

wobei jedes Q für eine chemische Bindung, -CH₂-, -CH₂-CH₂-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂, -C(CH₃)₂-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₂-, -CH₂C(CH₃)₂-, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₂- steht, R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, -CH₂-CH(CH₃)Ph, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, - CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, lodid oder Methosulfat.In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratin fibers, the coloring agent being an amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII) R'aG _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a -R' _a (Si-VII), contains, in which means:

• - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH _{2 CH 2 CH2 CH3 ,} -O- _CH2 CH( _{CH3 ) 2} , -CH2 CH( _CH3 ) ₂ , -O-CH(CH3 )CH2 CH3 , -CH _{( CH3} ) _{CH2 CH3} , -OC( _{CH3 ) 3 ,} -C( _{CH3 ) 3} ;
• - a stands for a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• - b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• - R' is a monovalent radical selected from
  • ◯ -QN(R'')-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N(R'') ₂
  • ◯ -QN(R'') ₂
  • ◯ -QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^-
  • ◯ -QN ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^-
  • ◯ -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R'')A ^-
  • ◯ -QN(R'')-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- ,

wobei jedes Q für eine chemische Bindung, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ , -C(CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C(CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ CH ₂ - steht, R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )Ph, der C _1-20 -Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C(CH ₃ ) ₃ , steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, lodid oder Methosulfat.

worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratin fibers, the coloring agent containing at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-Vlla),

where m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably has values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably has values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are referred to as trimethylsilyl amodimethicone.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a colorant to the keratin fibers, the colorant containing at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIb).

contain where R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10 accepts.

According to the INCI declaration, these amino-functionalized silicone polymers are referred to as amodimethicones.

Irrespective of which amino-functional silicones are used, colorants according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and in particular above 0.4 meq/g are preferred. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also given in units of mg KOH/g.

Colorants which contain a special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer are also suitable for use in the process according to the invention. This amino functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of formula (SI-VIII) and formula (Si-IX)

Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.

A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known by the name of Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer and is commercially available from Wacker in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E.

• R1 für -CH₃, -OH, -OCH₃, -O-CH₂CH₃, -O-CH₂CH₂CH₃, oder -O-CH(CH₃)₂ steht;
• R2 für -CH₃, -OH, oder -OCH₃ steht.

A silicone which has structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can, for example, be used as the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone

• R1 is -CH ₃ , -OH, -OCH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , or -O-CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ ;
• R2 is -CH ₃ , -OH, or -OCH ₃ .

in der

R1

für -CH₃, -OH, -OCH₃, -O-CH₂CH₃, -O-CH₂CH₂CH₃, oder -O-CH(CH₃)₂ steht;

R2

für -CH₃, -OH, oder -OCH₃ steht.

B

für eine Gruppe -OH, -O-Si(CH₃)₃,-O-Si(CH₃)₂OH ,-O-Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,

D

für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH₃)₃,-Si(CH₃)₂OH, -Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,

a, b und c

unabhängig voneinander für ganze Zahlen zwischen 0 und 1000 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0

m und n

unabhängig voneinander für ganze, Zahlen zwischen 1 und 1000 stehen

mit den Maßgabe, daß

• - mindestens eine der Bedingungen B = -OH bzw. D = -H erfüllt ist,
• - die Einheiten a, b, c, m und n statistisch oder blockweise im Molekül verteilt vorliegen.

Particularly preferred colorants contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-XI)

in the

R1

is -CH ₃ , -OH, -OCH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , or -O-CH(CH ₃ ) ₂ ;

R2

represents -CH ₃ , -OH, or -OCH ₃ .

B

represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₃ , -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OH , -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

D

represents a group -H, -Si(CH ₃ ) ₃ , -Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

a, b and c

independently represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso a + b + c > 0

m and n

stand independently for whole numbers between 1 and 1000

with the proviso that

• - at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled,
• - the units a, b, c, m and n are distributed randomly or in blocks in the molecule.

Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to make it clear that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be bonded directly to an end group B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI) a>0 or b>0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI) a>0 and c>0, ie the terminal group B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy group. In formula (Si-VI) too, the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are preferably randomly distributed. The silicones used according to the invention represented by formula (Si-VI) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B=—Si(CH ₃ ) ₃ ), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on one side or dimethylsilylhydroxy- and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side.

In the context of the present invention, particularly preferably used silicones are selected from silicones in which B = -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = -Si(CH ₃ ) ₃ B = -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = -Si( _CH3 ) ₂ OH B = -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = _-Si ( _CH3 ) _2OCH3 B = -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₃ and D = -Si( _CH3 ) ₂ OH B = -O-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ and D = -Si( _CH3 ) ₂ OH means. These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the hair properties of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, and to significantly improved protection in the event of oxidative treatment.

In the agent used in the method according to the invention for the preliminary coloring, one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers can, for example, be present in a total amount of from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight. The quantities are based on the total amount of all aminosilicones used, which is related to the total weight of the colorant.

In this context, it was observed that the impression of greasy, weighed down or oily hair also depends on the amount of amino silicone used. The higher the content of aminosilicone in the colorant, the more negative the haptic impression was. The use of the aftertreatment agent according to the invention showed a particularly strong improvement in the feel of the hair when a very high proportion by weight of aminosilicones was used in the previous application of the colorant.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant - based on the total weight of the colorant - contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 3.5% by weight.

pigments in the colorant

In the process according to the invention, an aftertreatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have previously been colored by using at least one pigment.

For the purposes of the present invention, pigments are understood to mean coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25° C. of less than 0.5 g/l, preferably less than 0.1 g/l, even more preferably less than 0.05 g/l. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a glass beaker. A stir bar is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C with stirring on a magnetic stirrer for one hour. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.

Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and/or organic origin. In a preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the after-treatment agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one inorganic and/or organic pigment.

Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt terra di sienna or graphite, for example. Furthermore, as inorganic color pigments black pigments such. B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such. B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.

Colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides and metal oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and/or metal molybdates are particularly suitable. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI77510) and/or Carmine (cochineal).

Colored pigments which are also particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and/or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, mainly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica optionally coated with one or more metal oxide(s) can also be used as pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).

In a preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one inorganic pigment, the inorganic pigment preferably being selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and/or a metal oxychloride.

In a preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the after-treatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have been colored by applying at least one pigment selected from mica- or mica-based pigments which are mixed with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and/or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 774 99), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and/or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available, for example under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dicrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® from Sunstar.

• Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
• Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)
• Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
• Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)
• Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360)
• Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)
• Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510)
• Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491)
• Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE
• Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
• Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU)
• Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
• Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
• Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

Very particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:

• Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
• Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)
• Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
• Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
• Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDES)
• Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDES)
• Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDES), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360)
• Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)
• Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510)
• Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491)
• Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE
• Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
• Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU)
• Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
• Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
• Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

• Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
• Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

Examples of further particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are:

• Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
• Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

• Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:

• Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

In a further embodiment, the colorant applied beforehand can also contain one or more organic pigments.

The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or lakes, which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and/or triarylmethane compounds .

Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 1914 0, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one organic pigment, the organic pigment preferably being selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 741 60, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470.

The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. In the context of the invention, the term colored lake is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of adsorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the above conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or aluminum.

Alizarin color lake, for example, can be used as the color lake.

Pigments with a specific shape may also have been used to color the keratin fibers. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and/or a lenticular substrate flake can be used. Furthermore, coloring based on a small substrate plate comprising a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.

In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one pigment from the group consisting of pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet and vacuum-metallized pigments.

The substrate flakes of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate flakes is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate flakes are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30nm, 5 to 30nm, 10 to 30nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.

Due to the small thickness of the substrate flakes, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.

The substrate flakes preferably have a monolithic structure. In this context, monolithic means consisting of a single, self-contained unit without fractures, layers or inclusions, although structural changes can occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate flakes are preferably of homogeneous structure, i.e. there is no concentration gradient within the flakes. In particular, the substrate flakes are not built up in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein.

The size of the small substrate can be adjusted to the respective application, in particular the desired effect on the keratin material. As a rule, the substrate flakes have an average largest diameter of about 2 to 200 μm, in particular about 5 to 100 μm.

In a preferred embodiment, the form factor (aspect ratio), expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750. The mean size of the uncoated substrate flakes is the d50 value of the uncoated substrate flakes. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. To prepare the sample, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.

The substrate flakes can be constructed from any material that can be formed into flake form.

They can be of natural origin, but also produced synthetically. Materials from which the substrate flakes can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi)precious stones, and plastics. The substrate flakes are preferably constructed from metal (alloys).

Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be used as the metal. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold. Preferred substrate flakes are aluminum flakes and brass flakes, aluminum substrate flakes being particularly preferred.

Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as "cornflakes" due to their appearance.

Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate flakes generate a high proportion of scattered light. In addition, the pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinic material and, for example, effects analogous to a natural graying can be achieved.

Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate flakes have an essentially regular round edge and are also referred to as “silver dollars” because of their appearance. Due to their regular structure, the proportion of reflected light predominates in the case of pigments based on lenticular substrate plates.

Vacuum metallized pigments (vacuum metallized pigments, VMP) can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are distinguished by a particularly low thickness of the substrate flakes in the range from 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. In the context of this application, substrate flakes which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to as VMP substrate flakes. Aluminum VMP substrate flakes can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.

The substrate flakes made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and/or VPM substrate flakes, in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a large extent and produce a light-dark flop. These have proven to be particularly preferred for use in the colorant.

Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate flake include, for example, the pigments from Eckart's VISIONAIRE series.

Pigments based on a lenticular substrate flake are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Pigments based on a substrate flake, which comprises a vacuum-metallized pigment, are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Due to their excellent light and temperature stability, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agent is very particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D ₅₀ of from 1.0 to 50 μm, preferably from 5.0 to 45 μm, preferably from 10 to 40 μm, in particular from 14 to 30 μm. The mean particle size D ₅₀ can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

In the agent used in the method according to the invention for the preliminary coloring, one or more pigments can, for example, in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5% by weight. The quantities are based on the total amount of all pigments used, which is related to the total weight of the colorant.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one colorant which - based on the total weight of the colorant - contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5% by weight .

aftertreatment agent

In the context of the method according to the invention, an aftertreatment agent is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular to human hair, which have been dyed as described above. A significant improvement in the feel of the hair is associated with this use of the aftertreatment agent. The timing at which the after-treatment agent is applied depends on the needs of the user and can be adjusted to suit their habits.

For example, it is possible to apply the aftertreatment agent to the freshly dyed, still wet or just dried keratin fibers, so that there is a period of only a few minutes to a few hours between rinsing out the colorant and applying the aftertreatment agent. Furthermore, the user can also decide to dye the hair the day before and only apply the post-treatment agent the next day. In this case, the after-treatment agent can be applied to wet or dry hair that has been colored the day before.

Furthermore, it is possible that there is a longer period of time between the previous application of the coloring agent and the application of the after-treatment agent, which can be several days or even weeks. In this context, the premise is that the after-treatment agent is applied to colored keratin material, which means that the keratin material must still be colored by the application of the pigments.

It is very particularly preferred if the coloring and the after-treatment are carried out as part of a single coloring-after-treatment process, so that there is a maximum period of a few hours, preferably a maximum of 2 hours, between the coloring of the keratin fibers and the time at which the after-treatment agent is applied.

The post-treatment agent used in the method according to the invention is characterized in that it contains water and is alkaline, so that its pH value is in the range from 7.5 to 12.0.

Even if an improvement in the feel of the dyed keratin fibers occurs even in the weakly alkaline range, this effect is particularly strong when the aftertreatment agent has a more alkaline pH. The pH of the aftertreatment agent is particularly preferably in the range from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably from 8.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 9.0 to 11.5, even more preferably from 9.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 11.5.

• (N-1) einen pH-Wert von 8,0 bis 11,5, bevorzugt von 8,5 bis 11,5, weiter bevorzugt von 9,0 bis 11,5, noch weiter bevorzugt von 9,5 bis 11,5 und ganz besonders bevorzugt von 10,0 bis 11,5 besitzt.

Within the scope of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent

• (N-1) has a pH of from 8.0 to 11.5, preferably from 8.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 9.0 to 11.5, even more preferably from 9.5 to 11.5 and most preferably from 10.0 to 11.5.

The alkaline pH can be adjusted by using one or more alkalizing agents. In this context, certain alkalizing agents have proven to be particularly well suited with regard to improving the feel of the keratin fibers. Very suitable alkalizing agents can be selected from the group of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkali metal bicarbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkaline earth metal phosphates, C ₁ -C ₆ alkanolamines, basic amino acids, ammonia, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal silicates and alkaline earth metal silicates.

• (N2) mindestens ein Alkalisierungsmittel ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der Alkalimetallhydroxide, der Erdalkalimetallhydroxide, der Alkalicarbonate, der Erdalkalicarbonate, der Alkalihydrogencarbonate, der Alkalimetallphosphate, der Erdalkalimetallphosphate, der C₁-C₆-Alkanolamine, der basischen Aminosäuren, Ammoniak, der Alkalimetallmetasilikate, der Erdalkalimetallmetasilikate, der Alkalimetallsilikate und der Erdalkalimetallsilikate enthält.

Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent

• (N2) at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkali metal bicarbonates, Alkali metal phosphates, alkaline earth metal phosphates, C ₁ -C ₆ alkanolamines, basic amino acids, ammonia, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal silicates and alkaline earth metal silicates.

Suitable alkali metal hydroxides are, for example, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Suitable alkaline earth metal hydroxides are, for example, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and barium hydroxide.

Other inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention from the group of alkali metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates and alkali metal hydrogen carbonates are, for example, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate and potassium hydrogen carbonate.

Other inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention from the group of alkali metal phosphates and that of alkaline earth metal phosphates are, for example, sodium phosphate and potassium phosphate.

Alkanolamines can be selected from primary amines with a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl skeleton which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), triethanolamine (alternatively referred to as tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentane -3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.

For the purposes of the invention, an amino acid is an organic compound which contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SO ₃ H group in its structure. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, in particular α-(alpha)-amino carboxylic acids and ω-amino carboxylic acids, with α-amino carboxylic acids being particularly preferred.

According to the invention, basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point pI greater than 7.0.

Basic α-amino carboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the context of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as a specific compound or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L configuration.

The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and/or histidine.

Ammonia can be used in the decolorizing agent, for example, in the form of a 10 to 40% strength aqueous solution.

Examples of suitable alkali metal metasilicates are sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate. Examples of suitable alkaline earth metal metasilicates are magnesium metasilicate and calcium metasilicate.

Examples of suitable alkali metal silicates are sodium silicate and potassium silicate. Examples of suitable alkaline earth metal metasilicates are magnesium silicate and calcium silicate.

The alkalizing agents from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide have shown the best suitability.

• (N2) mindestens ein Alkalisierungsmittel ausgewählt aus der Gruppe aus Natriumhydroxid und Kaliumhydroxid enthält.

Within the scope of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent

• (N2) contains at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

The alkalizing agents are preferably incorporated into the aftertreatment agents according to the invention in an amount which leads to the establishment of the desired pH.

For application to the keratin fibers, the after-treatment agent is expediently thickened or thickened. Various methods are available to the person skilled in the art for thickening.

With regard to the task according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly advantageous if the aftertreatment agent is packaged in the form of a gel with a high to very high water content.

For the purposes of the application, a gel is understood to mean a disperse system which consists of at least two components (water plus thickening agent). The solid component (i.e. the thickening agent) forms a spongy, three-dimensional network whose pores are filled with the liquid (i.e. with water). The liquid component is thereby immobilized in the solid. The thickeners used to form the gel are usually polymeric thickeners or polymers.

The water content of this gel-like aftertreatment agent is - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent - preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 85% by weight, even more preferably at least 90% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 95% by weight. A water content of at least 95% by weight means, for example, that 100 g of an aftertreatment agent contain 95 g or more water.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is a gel which - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent - has a water content of at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 95% by weight.

One or more polymeric thickeners are preferably used to thicken the aftertreatment agent according to the invention. Here, the selection of certain polymeric thickeners has particularly strongly supported the formation of a natural and soft hair feel. It has been found to be particularly preferred if the agent according to the invention contains at least one polysaccharide-based thickener. Particularly suitable thickeners can be selected from the group of polysaccharides, such as xanthan, algin, alginates, glucans, pullulan, curdlan, cellulose, laminarin, amylose or lichenin, tragacanth, karaya gum, ghatti gum, agar, carrageenan, chitin, chitosan, gum arabic, gellan, carob gum, galactonmannans, guar, carob seed flour and tamarind seed flour. The use of xanthan in the aftertreatment agent is very particularly preferred.

• (N3) mindestens einen Verdicker aus der Gruppe der Polysaccharide enthält, der bevorzugt ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe aus Xanthan, Algin, Alginaten, Glucanen, Pullulan, Curdlan, Cellulosen, Laminarin, Amylose oder Lichenin, Traganth, Karaya-Gummi, Ghatti-Gummi, Agar, Carrageenan, Chitin, Chitosan, Gummi arabicum, Gellan, Carob Gummi, Galactonmannanen, Guar,Johannisbrotkernmehl und Tamarindenkernmehl, ganz besonders bevorzugt Xanthan.

Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent

• (N3) contains at least one thickener from the group of polysaccharides, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of xanthan, algin, alginates, glucans, pullulan, curdlan, cellulose, laminarin, amylose or lichenin, tragacanth, karaya gum, ghatti gum, agar, carrageenan, chitin, chitosan, gum arabic, gellan, carob gum, galactonmannans, guar, locust bean gum and tamarind gum, very particularly preferably xanthan.

Xanthan is a polysaccharide which is made up of the structural components D-glucose, D-mannose, D-glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate, among other things, and which is also known by the INCI name xanthan gum. Xanthan bears carboxy groups and is anionic or anionizable. The physiologically tolerable salts of xanthan are also in accordance with the invention.

Alginates (INCI name Algin) are the salts of alginic acid. Alginic acid is alternatively referred to as algin. Alginates are acidic polysaccharides containing carboxyl groups, consisting of D-mannuronic acid and D-guluronic acid in different ratios, which are linked with 1-4 glycosidic bonds. According to the invention are in particular the alkali metal and the alkaline earth metal salts of align acids. The use of alginic acid, sodium alginate, potassium alginate, ammonium alginate and/or calcium alginate has proven particularly advantageous.

Glucans are oligo- or polysaccharides that are made up only of D-glucose molecules and are linked to one another by glycosidic bonds. Examples of suitable glucans are dextran, mutan, glycogen, pullulan and starch.

Pullulan is a natural, water-soluble, linear polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units. Three glucose units of maltotriose are linked together by alpha-1,4-glycosidic linkages, while consecutive maltotriose units are linked by alpha-1,6 linkages. The molar mass of the polymers is usually between 10,000 and 400,000 daltons. Pullulan is produced from starch and sugar by the bacterium Aureobasidium pullulans.

Curdlan is a carbohydrate made from glucose produced by some bacteria.

The cellulose consists of several hundred to tens of thousands (β-1,4-glycosidically linked) β-D-glucose or cellobiose units. These high-molecular cellulose chains combine to form higher structures.

According to the invention, the group of celluloses also includes cellulose derivatives such as carboxyalkyl celluloses. Carboxyalkyl celluloses are cellulose ethers in which the hydrogen atoms of the hydroxy groups of the cellulose are partially or completely substituted by carboxyalkyl groups. A preferred carboxyalkyl cellulose is carboxymethyl cellulose, which can preferably be used in the form of its sodium salt (sodium carboxymethyl cellulose).

Laminarin is a polysaccharide belonging to the (1→3)-β-D-glucans and is water-soluble depending on its form.

With a mass fraction of about 20-30 percent, amylose is a component of natural vegetable starch, for example from potatoes, wheat or corn, in addition to amylopectin.
The polysaccharide amylose has a molar mass between 100,000 and 1,000,000 g · mol ^-1 , corresponding to about 1000 (in the case of cereal starches) to 4500 (in the case of potato starches) D-glucose monomers which are α-1,4-glycosidically linked to one another. At high molar masses, isolated α-1,6-glycosidic branches also occur.

Traganth (also tragacanth, tragacanth, tragacanth gum, gum tragacanth) is a gum or a natural polysaccharide. It consists of the sap of shrubby representatives of the legume genus Astragalus (Astragalus), Astragalus gummifer, Astragalus bustillosii and Astragalus tragacantha, as well as Astracantha adscendens, Astracantha microcephala, Astracantha kurdica and Astracantha strobilifera.

Karaya (Indian tragacanth, karaya gum, sterculia gum, E 416) is a gum that consists mainly of carbohydrates and galacturonic acid. It is an acidic polysaccharide composed of D-galactose, L-rhamnose, D-galacturonic acid, D-glucuronic acid and acetic acid.

Agar, also known as agar-agar, is a galactose polymer (a polysaccharide) that can form jelly. The basic units of agar are agarose and sulfated agaropectin. Agar is made from the cell walls of some species of algae (primarily red algae such as Gracilaria, Gelidiopsis, Gelidium, Hypnea and Sphaerococcus species), mainly from East Asia.

Carrageen is also synonymously referred to as carrageenan. Carrageenan is sulfated galactan that can be obtained, for example, by extraction from red algae. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of around 25%, which is very easily soluble in hot water. In the case of carrageenan, there are three main components with different properties, which are κ-carrageenan, i-carrageenan and λ-carrageenan. The gel-forming κ-fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-a-D-galactose, which are glycosidically linked alternately in the 1,3- and 1,4-position. The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues and is readily soluble in cold water. i-Carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-a-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is soluble in hot water and also gel-forming.

Chitin is a polysaccharide made up of acetylglucosamine units (more precisely: 2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucopyranose, in short: N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, abbreviation: GlcNAc). The acetylglucosamine units are linked by β-1,4-glycosidic bonds. Chitin can thus be understood as a variant of cellulose in which the hydroxy groups in position 2 of the monomer units have been replaced by acetamido groups.

Chitosan, which can also be referred to as poliglusam or poly-D-glucosamine or polyglucosamine, is a naturally occurring biopolymer derived from chitin - composed of β-1,4-glycosidically linked N-acetylglucosamine residues (precisely 2-acetamido-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose residues) - and is therefore a polyaminosaccharide like this. To produce chitosan, chitin is deacetylated so that the molecule ultimately consists of only about 2000 linearly connected 2-amino-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose or glucosamine monomers.

Gum arabic (also gum arabic and translated Arabic gum) is the gum from the exudate of various acacia trees and species distributed in Africa such as the gum arabic tree (Senegalia senegal), as well as the Arabic gum acacia (Vachellia nilotica), the seyal acacia (Vachellia seyal) and from Vachellia tortilis, Vachellia gummifera, Vachellia square and the terrible acacia (Vachellia horrida).

Gellan belongs to the linear polysaccharides and consists of several different building blocks. It consists of a rhamnose, a glucuronic acid and two glucose basic units which are esterified with acetic acid and glyceric acid. The glucuronic acid is present as the mixed salts of potassium, calcium, sodium and magnesium. The molar mass is approximately 500,000 g/mol.

Galactomannans (or galactomannans) are starch-like substances made from branched carbohydrate chains. The main chain consists of mannose, with short side chains each consisting of one galactose molecule occurring at different intervals. The main chain of the polysaccharide consists of D-mannose units, which form a helical screw structure analogous to amylose in starch. The monomers are linked only β-1,4-glycosidically. Side chains of individual galactose molecules occur at irregular intervals; these are α-6,1-glycosidically bound to the mannose.

The guar bean (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba), also known as guar or tufted bean, is a crop from the legume family (Fabaceae or Leguminosae), subfamily Fabaceae. It is closely related to a number of other crops called "beans". The most important product of the plant is guar gum (also called guar, guar flour or guar gum), which mainly consists of the polysaccharide guaran. To make guar gum, the outer layers and germ are separated from the seed before it is ground.

Locust bean gum is a polysaccharide consisting mostly of galactose (20%) and mannose (80%).

Tamarind seed flour is the product made from the seeds of the tamarind. These contain complex carbohydrates (polysaccharides or hydrocolloids), which are mainly used as gelling and thickening agents. Tamarind gum can be isolated by extraction with hot water and subsequent drying. In addition to arabinose, the main components of these multiple sugars are galactose, xylose and glucose (“dextrose”).

Based on its total weight, the aftertreatment agent according to the invention can contain one or more thickeners from the group of polysaccharides (N3) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight.

The aftertreatment agent according to the invention very particularly preferably contains - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight xanthan.

Packaging of the aftertreatment agent

The after-treatment agent can be formulated and used by the user in various ways. As already described, the after-treatment agent is particularly important It is a gel with a medium to high water content that can be packaged in a sachet, a bottle or another container.

In addition to the components essential to the invention described above, the aftertreatment agent according to the invention can optionally also contain one or more other ingredients.

Further optional ingredients are, for example, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic and/or anionic surfactants, further solvents, anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and/or cationic polymers; structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, e.g. lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolyzates based on animals and/or plants, and in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; sunscreens and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; perfumes, plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; Swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide copolymers; Pearlizing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate.

The person skilled in the art will select these further substances in accordance with the desired properties of the agents. With regard to other optional components and the amounts of these components used, express reference is made to the relevant handbooks known to those skilled in the art. The additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective composition.

Process for dyeing and after-treatment of keratinic material, in particular

human hair

As already described above, the point in time at which the after-treatment agent is applied to the dyed hair can be freely selected depending on the preferences of the user. It can be particularly convenient for the user to carry out the coloring of the hair and the application of the post-treatment agent in directly successive steps within one application process.

• (1) Applizieren eines Färbemittels auf die keratinischen Fasern, wobei das Färbemittel mindestens ein aminofunktionalisierten Silikonpolymer und mindestens ein Pigment enthält, wie sie bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands bereits im Detail offenbart wurden,
• (2) Einwirken des in Schritt (1) applizierten Färbemittels auf die keratinischen Fasern,
• (3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels mit Wasser,
• (4) gegebenenfalls Trocknen der keratinischen Fasern,
• (5) Applizieren eines Nachbehandlungsmittels auf die gefärbten keratinischen Fasern, wobei das Nachbehandlungsmittel bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands bereits im Detail offenbart wurde.

A second subject of the present invention is therefore a method for coloring and after-treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:

• (1) Application of a colorant to the keratin fibers, the colorant containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention,
• (2) the effect of the coloring agent applied in step (1) on the keratin fibers,
• (3) rinsing the colorant with water,
• (4) optionally drying the keratin fibers,
• (5) Application of an aftertreatment agent to the colored keratinic fibers, the aftertreatment agent having already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention.

In step (1) of the method according to the invention, a colorant containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, in particular their preferred and particularly preferred representatives described above, is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

In the subsequent step (2), the previously applied colorant is allowed to act on the hair. However, a great advantage of the coloring system according to the invention is that an intensive color result can be achieved even in very short periods of time after short exposure times. For this reason it is advantageous if the colorant only remains on the keratin material after its application for a comparatively short period of time of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes and particularly preferably 1 to 5 minutes.

• (2) Einwirken des in Schritt (1) applizierten Färbemittels auf den keratinischen Fasern für einen Zeitraum von 30 Sekunden bis 15 Minuten, bevorzugt von 30 Sekunden bis 10 Minuten, und besonders bevorzugt von 1 bis 5 Minuten

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by

• (2) Effect of the colorant applied in step (1) on the keratinic fibers for a period of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably 1 to 5 minutes

After the coloring agent has acted on the keratin material, it is finally rinsed out with water in step (3). In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is washed out with water only, i.e. without the aid of an aftertreatment agent not according to the invention or a shampoo.

Optionally, the colored keratinic fibers can then be dried in step (4). Drying can be done, for example, by using a heating hood or a hair dryer. If the keratin fibers are dried, step (5) follows step (4). If the keratin fibers are not dried, then step (5) follows step (3).

This is followed by the application of the aftertreatment agent, in particular in its preferred and particularly preferred embodiments described above, in step (5).

In this context, it has proven to be preferable for the aftertreatment agent to be applied to the hair within a maximum period of 5 hours, particularly preferably within a maximum period of 2 hours, after the colorant has been washed out.

• (5) Applizieren eines Nachbehandlungsmittels auf die gefärbten keratinischen Fasern innerhalb eines Zeitraums von maximal 3 Stunden nach Auswaschen des Färbemittels in Schritt (3).

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by

• (5) Applying an after-treatment agent to the colored keratinic fibers within a maximum period of 3 hours after washing out the coloring agent in step (3).

The post-treatment agent is particularly preferably applied to the dried or dry hair after step (4).

The aftertreatment agent can act on the keratin fibers in step (5), for example, for a period of 15 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably for a period of 30 seconds to 5 minutes.

• (1) Applizieren eines Färbemittels auf die keratinischen Fasern, wobei das Färbemittel mindestens ein aminofunktionalisierten Silikonpolymer und mindestens ein Pigment enthält, wie sie bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands bereits im Detail offenbart wurden,
• (2) Einwirken des in Schritt (1) applizierten Färbemittels auf die keratinischen Fasern,
• (3) Ausspülen des Färbemittels mit Wasser,
• (4) Trocknen der keratinischen Fasern,
• (5) Applizieren eines Nachbehandlungsmittels auf die gefärbten keratinischen Fasern, wobei das Nachbehandlungsmittel bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands bereits im Detail offenbart wurde,
• (6) Einwirken des in Schritt (5) applizierten Nachbehandlungsmittels auf die keratinischen Fasern, und
• (7) Ausspülen des Nachbehandlungsmittels nach Schritt (6).

A method for coloring and after-treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, is preferred, comprising the following steps in the order given:

• (1) Application of a colorant to the keratin fibers, the colorant containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention,
• (2) the effect of the coloring agent applied in step (1) on the keratin fibers,
• (3) rinsing the colorant with water,
• (4) drying the keratin fibers,
• (5) application of an aftertreatment agent to the colored keratinic fibers, the aftertreatment agent having already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention,
• (6) the effect of the post-treatment agent applied in step (5) on the keratin fibers, and
• (7) Flushing out the aftertreatment agent after step (6).

Multi-component packaging unit

In order to increase user comfort, the user is preferably provided with all the means required in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts).

• - einen ersten Container mit einem ersten Mittel, das mindestens ein aminofunktionalisiertes Silikonpolymer enthält, wie es bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands bereits im Detail offenbart wurde, und
• - einen zweiten Container mit einem zweiten Mittel, das mindestens ein Pigment enthält, wie es bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands bereits im Detail offenbart wurde, und
• - einen dritten Container mit einem Nachbehandlungsmittel, wie es bei der Beschreibung des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands bereits im Detail offenbart wurde.

A further object of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing and post-treating keratin fibers, in particular human hair, made up separately from one another

• - a first container with a first agent containing at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, and
• - a second container with a second agent containing at least one pigment as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, and
• - A third container with an aftertreatment agent, as has already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention.

Regarding the other preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention, what was said about the method according to the invention applies mutatis mutantis.

use

A further subject of the present invention is the use of an aftertreatment agent, as has already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, for improving the feel of colored keratin fibers, in particular colored human hair.

Regarding the other preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what was said about the methods according to the invention applies mutatis mutantis.

examples

1. Colorant

The following colorant was prepared (all figures in % by weight unless otherwise stated) coloring agent f SymSave H 979940 (4-hydroxyacetophenone, preservative) 0.20 phenoxyethanol 0.90 UCON FLUID AP ((PPG-14 Butyl Ether) 1.00 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate 1.50 Unipure Red LC 3079 (Pigment) 0.38 water (distilled) 9.90 DOWSIL AP-8568 Amino Fluid (amino functional silicone polymer) 0.75 Alegrace Marvelous D 12/77-1 Shiny Silver (Pigment) 2.50 Polyethylene Glycol MG 6000 15.00 Polyethylene Glycol MG 400 to 100

2. Aftertreatment agent

The following colorants were prepared (all figures in % by weight unless otherwise stated) aftertreatment agent NE (invention NV (comparison) Sodium hydroxide (50% aqueous solution) 0.04 - Keltrol CG-SFT (Xanthan Gum) 0.50 0.50 water (distilled) to 100 to 100 PH value 11 7

3. Application and results

The colorant F was applied to strands of hair and left to act for three minutes. The strands of hair were then washed out thoroughly (1 minute) with water and then dried with a hair dryer.

As soon as the strand of hair was dry, the respective aftertreatment agent (NE or NV) was applied to the colored strand of hair and then worked into the strand of hair manually. After an exposure time of 5 minutes, the strand of hair was washed out with water and then dried with a hair dryer.

The feel of the dry hair was evaluated by trained persons. invention Comparison Step 1 Apply dye F to hair Apply dye F to hair step 2 act for 3 minutes act for 3 minutes step 3 rinse and dry hair rinse and dry hair step 4 Apply after-treatment agent NE Apply post-treatment agent NV step 5 act for 5 minutes act for 5 minutes step 6 rinse and dry hair rinse and dry hair Result hair feel Hair feels natural Hair is sticky and oily

By after-treatment with the after-treatment agent NE according to the invention, the hair texture could be significantly improved compared to the after-treatment NV.

Claims (14)

Process for improving the feel of keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, wherein an aqueous post-treatment agent is applied to the colored keratin fibers which (N-1) has a pH of 7.5 to 12.0. procedure after claim 1 , characterized in that the after-treatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer having at least one secondary amino group. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 2 , characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino),

where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 3 , characterized in that the after-treatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by application of at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and of formula (Si-II).

Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 4 , characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one inorganic pigment, the inorganic pigment preferably being selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and/or a metal oxychloride. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 5 , characterized in that the post-treatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one organic pigment, the organic pigment preferably being selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73 360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 6 , characterized in that the post-treatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one pigment from the group consisting of pigments based on a lamellar substrate plate, pigments based on a lenticular substrate plate and vacuum metallized pigments. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 7 , characterized in that the aftertreatment agent (N-1) has a pH of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably from 8.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 9.0 to 11.5, even more preferably from 9.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 11.5. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 8th , characterized in that the post-treatment agent (N2) at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkali hydrogen carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkaline earth metal phosphates, C ₁ -C ₆ alkanolamines, basic amino acids, ammonia, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal silicates and alkaline earth metal contains silicates. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 9 , characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is a gel which - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent - has a water content of at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 95% by weight. Procedure according to one of Claims 1 until 10 , characterized in that the post-treatment agent (N3) contains at least one thickener from the group of polysaccharides, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of xanthan, algin, alginates, glucans, pullulan, curdlan, cellulose, laminarin, amylose or lichenin, tragacanth, karaya gum, ghatti gum, agar, carrageenan, chitin, chitosan, gum arabic, gellan, carob gum , galactonmannans, guar, locust bean gum and tamarind gum, most preferably xanthan. Process for coloring and after-treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a coloring agent to the keratinic fibers, the coloring agent containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as described in claims 1 until 7 were described, (2) the effect of the dye applied in step (1) on the keratinic fibers, (3) rinsing out the dye with water, (4) drying of the keratinic fibers, if necessary, (5) application of an aftertreatment agent to the dyed keratinic fibers, the aftertreatment agent in the claims 1 and 8th until 11 was described. Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing and post-treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, made up separately from one another - a first container with a first agent containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, as is described in claims 1 until 7 was described, and - a second container with a second agent containing at least one pigment, as in the claims 1 until 7 have been described, and - a third container with an aftertreatment agent, as in the claims 1 and 8th until 11 was described. Use of an aftertreatment agent, as in the claims 1 and 8th until 11 was described to improve the feel of dyed keratin fibers, especially dyed human hair.