DE102008044700A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful as skin care composition, comprises cosmetically effective- and/or active-substance, which is present partially in the form of nanocapsule in a nanoparticular carrier structure, and an excipient - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically effective- and/or active-substance, which is present at least partially in the form of nanocapsule in a nanoparticular carrier structure, together with at least one excipient.

Description

The The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. Especially the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, which is suitable for topical application on the skin, their use and a method of increasing bioavailability or the effectiveness of effective cosmetic and / or active ingredients.

Of the The field of cosmetics generally relates to the body and Beauty care, being in the cosmetics primarily on measures on the skin, their Appendices, such as fingernails, toenails and hair, and the perceptible mucous is turned off. The measures to be taken in the context of cosmetics aim in particular, a preserving, preventive and improving Care, on a beautification, Decorating or coloring especially the skin. For this purpose, in general cosmetics, Which synonymous as a cosmetic or personal care products be used. Cosmetics can usually last for years away without expert or medical Control be applied as the use of prescription Substances or pharmacologically active substances in cosmetics are not is provided. On the one hand, cosmetics contain ingredients which decisively determine the product properties of the cosmetic itself z. B. substances for the formation of an ointment base, as well as other so-called active substances or active substances, which are a cosmetic Have function with respect to the body, such as B. moisture-regulating substances, fragrances, coloring or sounding Substances or the like.

In The cosmetics industry is becoming more decorative and nurturing Cosmetics distinguished. The nourishing cosmetics try to beauty of Skin, nails and hair to support and to get. Which includes For example, cream, lotion, exfoliation, shampoo, toothpaste, mouthwash but also more for men targeted products, such as shaving cream and aftershave. The decorative Cosmetics, however, changed the appearance by means of coloring cosmetics. Examples are make-up, mascara, eye shadow, lipstick or rouge.

adversely in the cosmetic products known in the art is often, that the Release or uptake of the cosmetic active or active substances at the site of action, for example on or in the skin, not always optimal is because of the special properties of cosmetic products not always an optimal release of the active or active substances allows is or the cosmetic active or active sometimes poor can penetrate into deeper skin layers. A huge amount a cosmetic active or active substance applied to the skin thus remains ineffective on the skin surface. Thus it is in the state Often not possible with technology a high bioavailability to allow the cosmetic active or active substances at the site of action, which in particular for deeper skin layers, and a sustained effectiveness the cosmetic active or Active ingredients, for example, in deeper skin layers unsatisfactory is realized. The products of the prior art thus have a not always sufficient profile of action, but in particular in the cosmetic treatment of wrinkles or for the alleviation of Skin irritation desired is.

Around mitigating these disadvantages is often the case in the prior art Proceeded, in which often higher dosages or quantities the active or active substances be incorporated into the cosmetic, but this is not effective, especially since this procedure with higher production costs and, where appropriate even with unwanted intolerances or side effects associated with use.

One Another problem with the cosmetic compositions of the state The technique is often to be seen in the fact that they do not always have one have sufficient aging or storage stability. For example, at Products of the prior art, which in the form of emulsions present, a phase separation occur, resulting in uselessness of the product.

In front This is the object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition which is suitable for topical application and which the previously described Disadvantages of the prior art, at least largely avoids or at least mitigates, wherein the cosmetic composition compared to the state of Technique for an improved bioavailability of active ingredients lead at the site of action and also have improved aging or storage stability should.

The Applicant has now surprisingly found that the above-described object be solved by formulating a cosmetic composition which is particularly suitable for topical application to the skin and which has in cosmetically effective amounts at least one cosmetic active or active together with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient formulated such that the cosmetic active or active substance is present or contained at least partially in a nanoparticulate carrier structure in the form of nanocapsules.

Of the Term "cosmetic Composition "or the like, as used in the context of the present invention is to be understood very comprehensively and concerns both products decorative cosmetics as well as nourishing cosmetics. In non-limiting Way, the cosmetic composition according to the invention, for example a cream, a lotion, a scrub, a shampoo, a toothpaste or to be a mouthwash. equally But it can also be a shaving cream at the cosmetic product or act aftershave. Similarly, the cosmetic composition a make-up, mascara, an eye shadow, a lipstick or rouge be.

at all relative or percentage weight-related Quantities should be noted that these in the context of the inventive cosmetic Composition or combination are to be selected by a person skilled in the art, that she in total in the respective reference system (eg in the cosmetic Composition itself or in the nanocapsules), including the components or ingredients or additives or ingredients or excipients, in particular as defined below, always supplement by 100 wt .-%. This goes for the skilled person but by itself. Otherwise, the expert depending on the application or on the basis of the quantities listed below can deviate without him the scope of the present invention leaves.

It It goes without saying that configurations, Embodiments, Advantages and the like, which hereinafter for purposes of avoidance of repetitions are given only to one aspect of the invention, Of course also with regard to the rest Invention aspects apply accordingly.

object of the present invention - according to a first aspect of the present invention - is thus a cosmetic Composition, in particular for topical application on the skin, wherein the composition in cosmetically effective amounts at least a cosmetic active and / or Active substance together with at least one cosmetically acceptable Contains excipients. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is distinguished characterized in that the cosmetic active and / or active at least partially in one nanoparticulate support structure is present in the form of nanocapsules and / or contained.

The Applicant has been surprising found out that through the special formulation according to which the cosmetic active and / or Active substance in a nanoparticular support structure is introduced or integrated in the form of nanocapsules, the bioavailability the active or active substance at the site of action is significantly increased. In particular, the bioavailability of cosmetic active or active substance in deeper skin layers clearly increased, there - without limit yourself to this theory to want - the in the context of the cosmetic according to the invention Composition used nanocapsules with the cosmetic active or Active substance due to their physicochemical properties deep in the skin can penetrate and at least substantially only at the site of action a release of the cosmetic active or active substance takes place. In other words it has been possible in the context of the present invention, a cosmetic To provide a composition in which the cosmetic effect or active substances sozusa gene by means of a carrier penetrate deeply into the skin can, to be effective where they are needed. The cosmetic according to the invention Composition thus has an excellent depth effect and ultimately an excellent profile of action. Due to the principle according to the invention, according to which, in relation to the cosmetic composition according to the invention the active substances or active substances are coupled to a nanoparticulate carrier structure a defined or controlled release or release of the active substance or active substances take place at the site of action so that the activity specificity is optimized is.

Of further leads the targeted use of nanoparticulate carrier structures in the form of nanocapsules, which have the cosmetic active or active, to the fact that the amount or concentration of the cosmetic active or active ingredients in the cosmetic Composition according to the invention due to the improved bioavailability can be significantly reduced, resulting in better tolerability the products of the invention and leads to a cost-optimized production.

In addition, the cosmetic composition of the invention is also characterized by the fact that it has an extremely high aging or storage stability, since the nanopartiku In the form of the nanocapsules, carrier structures lead to a stable emulsion and thus a segregation of the cosmetic composition is prevented. Furthermore, as far as the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is concerned, it is also possible to dispense with the use of substances which improve the stability of the emulsion, for example detergents in the form of emulsifiers in the composition. Accordingly, it may be provided according to the invention that the cosmetic composition according to the invention has no excess of emulsifiers, such as detergents.

moreover will the good compatibility thereby still improved that in with respect to the nanoparticulate carrier structures in the form of nanocapsules skin-compatible or biocompatible substances be used. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is thus virtually free of side effects.

One Another advantage of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is to be seen in that it This is due to the specific properties of the used Nanocapsules in a sense is a self-emulsifying system, resulting in a clear Simplified preparation of the composition results because the nanocapsules are light can be prepared or incorporated into the composition.

The cosmetic composition can be present in numerous formulations, whereby through the purposive use of nanoparticulate structures, in which the cosmetic active or active at least partially is stored, providing customized cosmetic Compositions possible becomes. In particular, it is possible a variety of different cosmetic active ingredients incorporated into the nanocapsules, so that the composition of the invention tailor-made, so to speak and cover the entire spectrum of cosmetics.

One Another advantage of the present invention is to be seen in that it itself in the cosmetic composition as such at least one can act essentially transparent system, so that the optical properties of the composition are optimized.

What in the context of the cosmetic according to the invention As far as composition of nanocapsules used is concerned, their Quantity in the composition vary widely: According to the invention it is advantageous if the amount of nanocapsules in the composition 0.001 to 99 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 60 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 50 wt .-%, based on the composition.

The nanocapsules may have an average capsule size (D ₅₀ ) of 0.1 to 1000 nm, in particular 0.5 to 500 nm, preferably 1 to 300 nm, particularly preferably 1.5 to 200 nm. The mean capsule size is the mean diameter of the nanocapsules. The Applicant has found in completely surprising manner that the use of nanocapsules in the previously defined size ranges - with good release of the cosmetic active substance - leads to particularly stable compositions, wherein the compositions containing the nanocapsules according to the invention - if necessary - At the same time can have a high transparency.

The used according to the invention Nanocapsules can in the form of core / shell capsules and / or matrix capsules.

In In this context, it may be provided according to the invention that the cosmetic Active or active substance, so to speak in one of the following is embedded in defined capsule materials formed matrix and / or surrounded by the capsule materials in the manner of a shell or wrapped or encapsulated. One speaks of a matrix encapsulation in particular when the active substance or active substance is at least substantially above the entire nanocapsule preferably in homogeneous or uniform distribution whereas, in the case of core / shell encapsulation, the active ingredient especially in the interior or "cavity" of a capsule shell is located. Matrix capsules are used in particular if a continuous release of the encapsulated active or Active ingredients over a defined period of time, whereby by the appropriate Choice of matrix materials and the capsule sizes are different release rates can be adjusted. Core / shell encapsulations can especially on short-term releases or releases via one aim at a very long period of time. In the context of the present invention it is alike possible, Mixed forms between matrix capsules on the one hand and core / shell capsules on the other through a targeted selection and coordination of the capsule materials to realize.

The Nanocapsules can at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (1,013 hPa) solid or liquid, preferably liquid, be. This improves in particular the release of the active or Actives.

The used according to the invention Nanocapsules can formed as nanovesicles, nanoliposomes and / or nanomicels be. In this regard, can it be provided that the subsequently defined capsule materials, for example lipids, a cover over the to form encapsulated cosmetic active or active, for example like a lipid monolayer or sheath, the hydrophilic ones Regions of the lipids in the direction of the particular aqueous carrier phase the composition of the invention and the lipophilic areas of the shell materials in the direction of to be encapsulated active or active are oriented. Such Training can be present especially if it is in the cosmetic active or active substance to a hydrophobic or lipophilic Substance acts. equally It may be provided in the context of the present invention that - in particular in the case of liposomes - the Capsule materials, especially lipids, a bilayer around the to form encapsulated cosmetic active or active substance, in particular wherein the lipophilic regions of the lipids in the bilayer to each other are arranged and the respective hydrophilic areas of the lipids on the one hand in the direction of the particular aqueous carrier phase of the composition according to the invention and on the other hand towards the cosmetic effect to be encapsulated. or active substance are oriented. This is especially true in the case the use of hydrophilic cosmetic active substances. According to the invention preferred is the embodiment according to which a lipophilic or hydrophobic cosmetic active substance or active substance, such as A vegetable oil, embedded in nanocapsules.

As previously stated, can the nanocapsules have at least one capsule material. The amount of Capsule material can vary widely. Is preferred However, if the amount of capsule material in the nanocapsules 10th to 99.99 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 99.9 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 99.5 wt .-%, preferably 60 to 99 wt .-%, based on the Nanocapsules, amounts.

moreover is it preferred according to the invention that - as before quoted - the nanocapsules have at least one cosmetic active and / or active substance.

The Amount of the cosmetic active and / or active substance in the nanocapsules may be 0.01 to 90% by weight, especially 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 40 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules, be.

According to the invention Particularly good results in terms of storage or aging stability of the resulting cosmetic composition according to the invention and the optimized Release, in particular bioavailability, of the cosmetic Active or active substance achieved when the weight ratio between Capsule material and cosmetic active and / or active in the range of 1,000: 1 to 1: 100, in particular 500: 1 to 1:50, preferably 100: 1 to 1:10, preferably 90: 1 to 1: 5, particularly preferably 85: 1 to 1: 1, most preferably 80: 1 to 2: 1, is.

What the capsule material for the invention used As far as nanocapsules are concerned, the Nanocapsules at least one biocompatible, physiologically compatible and / or tolerated, have degradable and / or metabolizable capsule material. This results in a particularly good compatibility of the cosmetic Ensures composition according to the invention.

Farther can it be provided that the Nanocapsules at least one hydrophobic and / or lipophilic capsule material contain and / or that the Nanocapsules a capsule material with hydrophobic and / or lipophilic Areas and / or sections.

moreover can it be provided that the Nanocapsules at least one hydrophilic and / or lipophobic capsule material contain and / or that the Nanocapsules a capsule material with hydrophilic and / or lipophobic Areas and / or sections.

It is according to the invention particularly advantageous if the nanocapsules at least one amphipathic Capsule material included.

The selection of the capsule materials can be carried out, for example, depending on the physicochemical properties of the cosmetic active substance or active substance used and / or the physicochemical properties of the carrier composition or the carrier phase (for example aqueous ointment system) of the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Thus, for example, in an embodiment of the invention form using a hydrophobic or lipophilic cosmetic active or active substance and an aqueous-based carrier phase, the selection of the capsule material carried out such that this is an amphipathic capsule material. This is true, for example, for lipids to.

• (a) Lipiden, vorzugsweise aus der Gruppe von Lecithinen, Phospholipiden, Phosphatidylcholinen, insbesondere auf Basis von Sojabohnenextrakt und/oder insbesondere in ungesättigter und/oder hydrierter Form;
• (b) Polyolen, insbesondere Glycerin;
• (c) Kohlenhydraten, insbesondere Fructose und/oder Sorbitol;

oder deren Mischungen, gegebenenfalls zusammen mit Wasser, enthalten.The capsule material of the nanocapsules may be at least one member of the group of

• (A) lipids, preferably from the group of lecithins, phospholipids, phosphatidylcholines, in particular based on soybean extract and / or in particular in unsaturated and / or hydrogenated form;
• (b) polyols, especially glycerol;
• (c) carbohydrates, especially fructose and / or sorbitol;

or mixtures thereof, optionally together with water.

According to the invention it can be provided that the Nanocapsules as capsule materials (phospho) lipids and / or lecithins together with polyols and / or carbohydrates, optionally in addition with water.

at the lipids are preferably biological molecules with amphipathic Properties, wherein the lipids in particular a lipophilic hydrocarbon radical and may have a polar hydrophilic head group. For example can as lipids phospholipids are used, such as phosphatidylcholines, Phosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidylserines and sphingomyelin. equally it may also be possible within the scope of the present invention Lipids based on fatty acids, Triacylglycerides, waxes, sphingolipids, lipopolysaccharides and use isoprenoids. In the invention used Lecithins are generally a lipid mixture which Contains phospholipids or this consists. Lecithins can For example, be obtained as extracts of soybeans or eggs. In particular, the lipid acts as an emulsifier and thus allows the formation of the nanocapsules in the cosmetic according to the invention Composition.

What the invention as capsule material for the As far as nanocapsules are concerned, they are generally to organic compounds which have multiple hydroxyl groups exhibit. For example, according to the invention glycerol can be used as polyol become. The use of polyols leads, for example, to a better matrix formation with respect to the nanocapsules. What the according to the invention as capsule material As far as carbohydrates are concerned, in addition to fructose and / or sorbitol for example, the use of fructose into consideration. For the aforementioned Capsule materials applies that these both part of the shell may be the nanocapsules as part of the matrix.

The Nanocapsules can the (phospho) lipids and / or the lecithins in an amount of 0.01 to 80 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 up to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the nanocapsules, contain. The nanocapsules can (Phospho) lipids and / or lecithins in an amount of up to 80 Wt .-%, in particular up to 40 wt .-%, preferably up to 20 wt .-%, preferably up to 10 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules contain.

What As far as nanocapsules are concerned, they may be as described above Polyols and / or carbohydrates, preferably polyols, in an amount from 1 to 95% by weight, especially 5 to 90% by weight, preferably From 10 to 85% by weight, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, based on the nanocapsules, contain. The nanocapsules can Polyols and / or carbohydrates, preferably polyols, in an amount of up to 95% by weight, in particular up to 90% by weight, preferably up to 85% by weight, preferably up to 80% by weight, based on the nanocapsules, contain.

The Cosmetic composition according to the invention as such, the Nanocapsules in amounts of 0.01 to 90 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, based on the composition.

Likewise the cosmetic composition according to the invention the active and / or Active ingredient in amounts of 0.0001 to 80 wt .-%, in particular special 0.005 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the composition.

As far as the cosmetic active and / or active substance is concerned, it may be a substance having (skin) nourishing and / or (skin) regenerating action and / or a substance having (skin) aging-preventing and / or (skin-) aging-reducing properties Effect and / or a substance having (skin) moisture-regulating and / or (skin) fat-regulating action and / or a substance having (skin) tone-regulating action and / or a substance having (skin) wrinkle-preventing and / or (skin-) ) wrinkle-reducing effect and / or a substance having (skin) teintregulierender and / or (skin) tanning regulating effect. Such substances are known to the person skilled in the art.

moreover It is possible in the context of the present invention that the active and / or active substance is selected from the group of vitamins, enzymes and coenzymes, minerals and minerals, trace elements, (micro-) nutrients, herbal ingredients, herbal extracts and vegetable oils, radical scavengers and UV protection substances.

Also according to the invention Combinations of the above cosmetic active ingredients be used.

When non-limiting Examples may be the composition according to the invention as cosmetic active substance Schisandra extracts (Schisandra chinensis), amaranth oil (Amaranthus caudatus), chia seed oil (Salvia hispanica) and / or Marula oil (Sclerocarya birrea).

The Composition according to the invention can contain further ingredients or excipients, in particular pH-adjusting agents, pH buffers, dyes, perfumes and perfumes, processing aids, Thickeners, lubricants, stabilizers, emulsifiers, surfactants, Preservatives, consistency control agents, thickeners, detergent substances or mixtures thereof.

The Cosmetic composition according to the invention may be aqueous-based System or as aqueous-oily based System exist. In this regard, is called the carrier phase in particular water, preferably deionized and / or purified Water, used.

What furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is concerned, so this may as a suspension or emulsion, preferably as an emulsion, especially as an oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion, particularly preferred as an oil-in-water emulsion, available.

The cosmetic according to the invention Composition according to the invention can be found in numerous formulations or application forms. For example, the cosmetic Composition according to the invention as ointment, cream, gel, paste, Lotion, spray or the like may be formulated. In particular, can the cosmetic according to the invention Composition in non-limiting As a washing formulation, for example in the form of wash gel, Cleansing milk or tonic, as a moisturizing formulation, for example in the form of moisturizer, the skin barrier strengthening Intensive cream or in the form of a serum to relieve skin irritation, as an anti-wrinkle formulation, as a skin-relaxing and / or moisture-regulating Formulation, for example in the form of a skin-relaxing day cream, be formulated as a body cream or night cream.

The Production of the cosmetic according to the invention Composition may be in a manner known to those skilled in the art respectively. Thus, for example, an emulsion of with the cosmetic Active or active substance loaded nanocapsules in a carrier phase together with the rest Ingredients or ingredients preferably incorporated homogeneously become.

in the Under the present invention, it has succeeded overall, a to provide cosmetic composition which - as before quoted - over one improved bioavailability the active ingredients used, with a uniform intake the aforementioned substances in the topical application to the skin Also in deeper skin, horn or epidermis layers of the skin is possible.

Another Object of the present invention - according to a second aspect of present invention the use of the above-described composition for increasing the Bioavailability of cosmetic active substances or active substances, in particular in their topical Application.

For further in this regard Details and may refer to the above comments on the cosmetic Composition of the invention are referred, which for the inventive use apply accordingly.

Finally, the present invention relates - according to a third aspect of the present invention - a method for increasing the bioavailability and / or increasing the effectiveness of effective cosmetic or active ingredients, especially in their topical application, wherein the cosmetic active and / or active ingredients introduced into a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application the. The inventive method is characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredients and / or active ingredients are at least partially incorporated and / or incorporated into a nanoparticulate carrier structure in the form of nanocapsules.

For further in this regard Information can be referred to the above statements to the first and second aspects of the present invention, which for the inventive method apply accordingly.

Further Configurations, modifications and variations as well as advantages of present invention are for the person skilled in the art readily discernible when reading the description and realizable without him the scope of the present invention leaves.

The following embodiments are merely illustrative of the present invention, but without restricting it to this.

EXAMPLES

• *) Als kosmetischer Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff wird Schisandra chinensis in Form eines CO₂-Extraktes von Schisandra-Früchten eingesetzt. Die eingesetzten Nanokapseln weisen einen Gehalt an Schisandra chinensis von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, auf. Die verwendeten Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 200 nm, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln.

Beispiel 2: Intensivcreme basierend auf Jojobaöl Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Wasser, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride, hydriertes Lecithin, Butyrospermum-parkii-Butter, 20,00 Squalan, Ceranid-3 Glycerin 10,00 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 5,00 Hydrierte Palmkernglyceride, hydrierte Palmglyceride 3,50 Shorea-stenoptera-Butter 3,00 Butyrospermum-parkii-Butter 3,00 Simmondsia-chinensis-Öl (Jojobaöl) 3,00 Squalan 3,00 Silika, Kaolin 2,00 Hydriertes Palmöl 1,00 Xanthangummi 1,00 Schisandra chinensis (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Magnesium-Aluminium-Silikat 0,80 Stearinsäure, Palmitinsäure 0,50 Tocopherol 0,50 Gellangummi 0,50 Wasser, Glycerin, Gossypium-herbaceum-Extrakt 0,50 Benzylalkohol 0,50 Dikaliumglycyrrhizat 0,20 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitate, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Natriumhyaluronat 0,05 Zitronensäure 0,035

• *) Als kosmetischer Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff wird Schisandra chinensis in Form eines CO₂-Extraktes von Schisandra-Früchten eingesetzt. Die eingesetzten Nanokapseln weisen einen Gehalt an Schisandra chinensis von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, auf. Die verwendeten Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 200 nm, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln.

Beispiel 3: Regenerierendes Jojoba-Intensivserum Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Glycerin 5,00 Betain 2,00 Dikaliumglycyrrhizat 1,00 Capryl- und Capronsäureglucoside 1,00 Schisandra chinensis (nanoverkapselt)* 0,50 Wasser, Glycerin, Gossypium-herbaceum-Extrakt 0,50 Xanthangummi 0,50 Benzylalkohol 0,50 Simmondsia-chinensis-Öl 0,30 Tocopherol 0,30 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Natriumhyaluronat 0,10 Carrageen 0,10

• *) Als kosmetischer Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff wird Schisandra chinensis in Form eines CO₂-Extraktes von Schisandra-Früchten eingesetzt. Die eingesetzten Nanokapseln weisen einen Gehalt an Schisandra chinensis von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, auf. Die verwendeten Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 200 nm, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln.

Beispiel 4: Lifting-Tagescreme basierend auf Arganöl Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 5,50 Glycerin 5,00 Glycin-Sojaöl (Sojaöl) 4,00 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 4,00 Hydriertes Kokosnußöl 3,50 Decyloleat 3,00 Glycerylstearatcitrat 3,00 Cetearylalkohol 2,00 Spilanthes-acmella-Blütenextrakt, Capryl- und Capronsäu 2,00 retriglyceride Squalan 1,50 Argania-spinosa-Öl 1,00 Amaranthus-caudatus-Öl (Amaranthöl) (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Cetearylglucosid, Cetearylalkohol 1,00 Stearinsäure, Palmitinsäure 0,50 Tocopherol 0,50 Xanthangummi 0,50 Mauritia-flexuosa-Fruchtextrakt 0,10 Natriumhyaluronate 0,025 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Benzylalkohol 0,50 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Parfüm 0,40

• *) Als kosmetischer Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff wird ein CO₂-Extrakt von Amaranthsamen eingesetzt, wobei die Nanokapseln den kosmetischen Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, enthalten. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln beträgt 30 bis 60 nm. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 150 nm.

Beispiel 5: Faltenreduzierende Nachtcreme auf Basis von Arganöl Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 6,00 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 5,00 Glycin-Sojaöl 4,00 Hydriertes Kokosnußöl 3,50 Glycerin 3,00 Glycerylstearatcitrat 3,00 Decyloleat 2,50 Shorea-stenoptera-Butter 2,00 Cetearylalkohol 2,00 Spilanthes-acmella-Blütenextrakt, Capryl- und Capronsäu 2,00 retriglyceride Squalan 2,00 Argania-spinosa-Öl (Arganöl) 1,00 Amaranthus-caudatus-Öl (Amaranthöl) (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Cetearylglucosid, Cetearylalkohol 1,00 Stearinsäure, Palmitinsäure 0,50 Tocopherol 0,50 Xanthangummi 0,50 Mauritia-flexuosa-Fruchtextrakt 0,10 Natriumhyaluronat 0,025 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Benzylalkohol 0,50 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Parfüm 0,50

• *) Als kosmetischer Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff wird ein CO₂-Extrakt von Amaranthsamen (Amaranthöl) eingesetzt, wobei die Nanokapseln den kosmetischen Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, enthalten. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln beträgt 30 bis 60 nm. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) maximal 150 nm.

Beispiel 6: Anti-Augenfalten-Konzentrat auf Basis von Arganöl Bestandteile: Wasser ad 100 Glycerin 6,00 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 6,00 Glycerylstearat SE 5,40 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 4,00 Alkohol, Parfüm, Lävulinsäure 4,00 Squalan 3,00 Hydrierte Palmkernglyceride, hydrierte Palmglyceride 3,00 Spilantes-acmella-Blütenextrakt, Capryl- und Capronsäu 2,00 retriglyceride Betain 2,00 Argania-spinosa-Öl (Arganöl) 1,00 Amaranthus-caudatus-Öl (Amaranthöl) (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Decyloleate 1,00 Xanthangummi 1,00 Natriumstearyllactylat 0.60 Tocopherol 0,50 Benzylalkohol 0,50 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Parfüm, Limonen, Citral, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol 0,10 Zitronensäure 0,06 Natriumhyaluronat 0,05

• *) Als kosmetischer Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff wird ein CO₂-Extrakt von Amaranthsamen (Amaranthöl) eingesetzt, wobei die Nanokapseln den kosmetischen Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, enthalten. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln beträgt 30 bis 60 nm. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 150 nm.

Beispiel 7: Intensivaufbau-Creme auf Basis von Distelöl Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Lanolin 13,00 hydriertes Pflanzenöl 5,00 Butyrospermum-parkii-Butter 4,50 Glycerin 4,00 Sorbitanoleat, 3-Polyglycerinricinoleat 4,00 Carthamus-tinctorius-Öl (Distelöl) 4,00 Glycin-Sojaöl (Sojaöl) 2,20 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 3,00 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 3,00 Sorbitanolivat 3,00 Squalan 3,00 Hydriertes Kokosnußöl 2,00 3-Polyglycerylpolyricinoleat 2,00 Cera Alba (Bienenwachs, doppelt gebleicht) 2,50 Salvia hispanica (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Benzylalkohol 0,80 Dextrinpalmitat 1,50 Magnesiumsulfat (Bittersalz) 1,00 Tocopherol 0,50 Parfüm, Benzylalkohol, Cinnamal, Citral, Cumarin, Euge 0,50 nol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Limonen, Linalool Glycerylcaprylat 0,50 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitate, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen- 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Kaliumsorbat 0,20 Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Zitronensäure 0,014

• *) Salvia hispanica wird in Form eines CO₂-Extraktes von Chiasamen eingesetzt. Die Nanokapseln weisen den Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, auf. Die verwendeten Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln beträgt in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) maximal 150 nm.

Beispiel 8: Entspannende Tagescreme auf Basis von Distelöl Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride 10,00 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 6,00 Cetearylalkohol 5,00 Glycerin 4,50 Shorea-stenoptera-Butter 4,00 Carthamus-tinctorius-Öl (Distelöl) 3,00 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 3,00 Prunus-amygdalus-dulcis-Öl 2,00 Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00 Mangifera-indica-Samenöl 1,00 Salvia hispanica (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Cetearylglucosid, Cetearylalkohol 1,00 Xanthangummi 1,00 Tocopherol 0,50 Parfüm, Benzylalkohol, Cinnamal, Citral, Cumarin, Euge 0,50 nol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Limonen, Linalool Benzylalkohol 0,50 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Zitronensäure 0,05

• *) Salvia hispanica wird in Form eines CO₂-Extraktes von Chiasamen eingesetzt. Die Nanokapseln weisen den Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, auf. Die verwendeten Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln beträgt in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) maximal 150 nm.

Beispiel 9: Regenerierende Nachtcreme auf Basis von Distelöl Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Glycerin 3,00 Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride 10,00 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 6,00 Shorea-stenoptera-Butter 5,00 Stearinsäure, Palmitinsäure 5,00 Carthamus-tinctorius-Öl (Distelöl) 3,00 Oenothera-biennis-Öl (Nachtkerzenöl) 2,00 Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00 Olea-europea-Öl (Olivenöl) 1,00 Salvia hispanica (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Cetearylglucoside, Cetearylalkohol 1,00 Xanthangummi 1,00 Tocopherol 0,50 Zitronensäure 0,05 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Benzylalkohol 0,50 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Parfüm, Benzylalkohol, Cinnamal, Citral, Cumarin, Euge 0,50 nol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Limonen, Linalool

• *) Salvia hispanica wird in Form eines CO₂-Extraktes von Chiasamen eingesetzt. Die Nanokapseln weisen den Wirk- bzw. Aktivstoff in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, auf. Die verwendeten Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln beträgt in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) maximal 150 nm.

Beispiel 10: Antifalten-Creme auf Basis von Schwarze Johannisbeere Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 5,00 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 4,00 Hydriertes Kokosnußöl 3,50 Glycerin 3,00 Glycerylstearatcitrat 3,00 Shorea-stenoptera-Butter 3,00 Squalan 2,50 Decyloleat 2,00 Cetearylalkohol 2,00 Glycin-Sojaöl (Sojaöl) 2,00 Alkohol, Wasser, Acmella-oleracea-Extrakt 1,00 Sclerocarya birrea (Marulaöl) (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Ribes-nigrum-fructis-Extrakt (Schwarze-Johannisbeere- 1,00 Extrakt), Wasser, Alkohol Cetearylglucoside, Cetearylalkohol 1,00 Xanthangummi 0,80 Benzylalkohol 0,50 Tocopherol 0,50 Stearinsäure, Palmitinsäure 0,50 Parfüm, Limonen, Linalool, Citral 0,30 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitate, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Natriumhyaluronat 0,10 Aloe-barbadensis-Extrakt 0,075

• *) Sclerocarya birrea wird in Form von Marulaöl eingesetzt, wobei die verwendeten Nanokapseln Marulaöl in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, enthalten. Die Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 200 nm.

Beispiel 11: Vielzweckcreme auf Basis von Schwarze Johannisbeere Bestandteile: Wasser ad 100 Glycerin 6,00 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 4,00 Hydriertes Kokosnußöl 3,50 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 3,00 Glycerylstearatcitrat 3,00 Decyloleat 2,50 Cetearylalkohol 2,00 Squalan 2,00 Shorea-stenoptera-Butter 2,00 Cetearylglucosid, Cetearylalkohol 1,00 Sclerocarya-birrea-Öl (Marulaöl) (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Ribes-nigrum-fructis-Extrakt (Schwarze-Johannisbeere- 1,00 Extrakt), Wasser, Alkohol Stearinsäure, Palmitinsäure 0,50 Tocopherol 0,50 Benzylalkohol 0,50 Xanthangummi 0,50 Gellangummi 0,50 Parfüm, Limonen, Linalool, Citral 0,40 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitate, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Natriumhyaluronat 0,10 Aloe-barbadensis-Extrakt 0,075

• *) Sclerocarya birrea wird in Form von Marulaöl eingesetzt, wobei die verwendeten Nanokapseln Marulaöl in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, enthalten. Die Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 200 nm.

Beispiel 12: Aktivnachtcreme auf Basis von Schwarze Johannisbeere Bestandteile: % Wasser ad 100 Helianthus-annuus-Samenöl 6,00 Prunus-armeniaca-Kernöl 5,00 Glycin-Sojaöl (Sojaöl) 4,00 Hydriertes Kokosnußöl 3,50 Glycerin 3,00 Glycerylstearatcitrate 3,00 Decyloleat 2,50 Cetearylalkohol 2,00 Squalan 2,00 Shorea-stenoptera-Butter 2,00 Cetearylglucosid, Cetearylalkohol 1,00 Sclerocarya-birrea-Öl (Marulaöl) (nanoverkapselt)* 1,00 Ribes-nigrum-fructis-Extrakt (Schwarze-Johannisbeere- 1,00 Extrakt), Wasser, Alkohol Stearinsäure, Palmitinsäure 0,50 Tocopherol 0,50 Benzylalkohol 0,50 Xanthangummi 0,50 Parfüm 0,50 Tocopherol, Ascorbylpalmitat, Ascorbinsäure, Zitronen- 0,20 säure, Alkohol, Capryl- und Capronsäuretriglyceride Natriumbenzoat 0,20 Kaliumsorbat 0,15 Aloe-barbadensis-Extrakt 0,075 Natriumhyaluronat 0,05

• *) Sclerocarya birrea wird in Form von Marulaöl eingesetzt, wobei die verwendeten Nanokapseln Marulaöl in einer Menge von 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Nanokapseln, enthalten. Die Nanokapseln weisen eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 30 bis 60 nm auf. Die mittlere Teilchengröße der Nanokapseln in wäßriger Verdünnung (1:100) beträgt maximal 200 nm.

For the cosmetic compositions according to the invention described below nanoparticulate carrier structures in the form of nanocapsules are used, which lecithin in amounts of 1 to 10 wt .-% and glycerol in amounts of 50 to 60 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules, as capsule material , wherein the nanocapsules also contain water and, as defined below, a cosmetic active or active substance. Example 1: Moisturizer based on jojoba oil ingredients: % water ad 100 Water, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides, hydrogenated lecithin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Squa lan, Ceranid-3 20.00 glycerin 10.00 Helianthus annuus seed oil (sunflower oil) 4.00 Butyrospermum-parkii butter 2.00 oleate 2.00 Silica, kaolin 2.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 2.00 Shorea butter stenoptera 1.50 Hydrogenated palm oil 1.50 xanthan gum 1.00 Simmondsia chinensis oil (jojoba oil) 1.00 squalane 1.00 Schisandra chinensis (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.80 Stearic acid, palmitic acid 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 gellan gum 0.50 Water, glycerin, Gossypium herbaceum extract 0.50 benzyl alcohol 0.50 dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.20 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium hyaluronate 0.05 citric acid 0.03

• *) Schisandra chinensis is used as a cosmetic active substance or active substance in the form of a CO ₂ extract of Schisandra fruits. The nanocapsules used have a Schisandra chinensis content of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules used have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is maximum 200 nm, based on the nanocapsules.

Example 2: Intensive cream based on jojoba oil ingredients: % water ad 100 Water, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides, hydrogenated lecithin, butyrospermum parkii butter, 20.00 Squalane, Ceranid-3 glycerin 10.00 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 5.00 Hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides, hydrogenated palm glycerides 3.50 Shorea butter stenoptera 3.00 Butyrospermum-parkii butter 3.00 Simmondsia chinensis oil (jojoba oil) 3.00 squalane 3.00 Silica, kaolin 2.00 Hydrogenated palm oil 1.00 xanthan gum 1.00 Schisandra chinensis (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.80 Stearic acid, palmitic acid 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 gellan gum 0.50 Water, glycerin, Gossypium herbaceum extract 0.50 benzyl alcohol 0.50 dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.20 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitates, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium hyaluronate 0.05 citric acid 0,035

• *) Schisandra chinensis is used as a cosmetic active substance or active substance in the form of a CO ₂ extract of Schisandra fruits. The nanocapsules used have a Schisandra chinensis content of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules used have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is at most 200 nm, based on the nanocapsules.

Example 3 Regenerating Jojoba Intensive Serum ingredients: % water ad 100 glycerin 5.00 betaine 2.00 dipotassium glycyrrhizate 1.00 Caprylic and capric acid glucosides 1.00 Schisandra chinensis (nano encapsulated) * 0.50 Water, glycerin, Gossypium herbaceum extract 0.50 xanthan gum 0.50 benzyl alcohol 0.50 Simmondsia chinensis-oil 0.30 tocopherol 0.30 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium hyaluronate 0.10 carrageenan 0.10

• *) Schisandra chinensis is used as a cosmetic active substance or active substance in the form of a CO ₂ extract of Schisandra fruits. The nanocapsules used have a Schisandra chinensis content of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules used have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is at most 200 nm, based on the nanocapsules.

Example 4: Lifting day cream based on argan oil ingredients: % water ad 100 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 5.50 glycerin 5.00 Glycine soybean oil (soybean oil) 4.00 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 4.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 3.50 oleate 3.00 glyceryl stearate 3.00 cetearyl 2.00 Spilanthes acmella flower extract, caprylic and capronex 2.00 retriglyceride squalane 1.50 Argania spinosa-oil 1.00 Amaranthus caudatus oil (Amaranth oil) (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Stearic acid, palmitic acid 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 xanthan gum 0.50 Mauritia flexuosa fruit extract 0.10 sodium hyaluronate 0,025 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides benzyl alcohol 0.50 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium benzoate 0.20 Perfume 0.40

• *) As a cosmetic active or active substance, a CO ₂ extract of amaranth seeds is used, the Na nokapseln the cosmetic active or active ingredient in an amount of 20 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules contain. The mean particle size of the nanocapsules is from 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is at most 150 nm.

Example 5: wrinkle-reducing night cream based on argan oil ingredients: % water ad 100 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 6.00 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 5.00 Glycine soya oil 4.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 3.50 glycerin 3.00 glyceryl stearate 3.00 oleate 2.50 Shorea butter stenoptera 2.00 cetearyl 2.00 Spilanthes acmella flower extract, caprylic and capronex 2.00 retriglyceride squalane 2.00 Argania spinosa oil (argan oil) 1.00 Amaranthus caudatus oil (Amaranth oil) (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Stearic acid, palmitic acid 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 xanthan gum 0.50 Mauritia flexuosa fruit extract 0.10 sodium hyaluronate 0,025 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides benzyl alcohol 0.50 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium benzoate 0.20 Perfume 0.50

• *) A CO ₂ extract of amaranth seeds (amaranth oil) is used as the cosmetic active substance or active substance, the nanocapsules containing the cosmetic active substance or active substance in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The mean particle size of the nanocapsules is 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is 150 nm.

Example 6 Anti-eye wrinkle concentrate based on argan oil ingredients: water ad 100 glycerin 6.00 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 6.00 Glyceryl stearate SE 5.40 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 4.00 Alcohol, perfume, levulinic acid 4.00 squalane 3.00 Hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides, hydrogenated palm glycerides 3.00 Spilantes acmella flower extract, caprylic and capronex 2.00 retriglyceride betaine 2.00 Argania spinosa oil (argan oil) 1.00 Amaranthus caudatus oil (Amaranth oil) (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Decyloleate 1.00 xanthan gum 1.00 sodium stearyl 0.60 tocopherol 0.50 benzyl alcohol 0.50 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 Perfume, limonene, citral, linalool, geraniol, citronellol 0.10 citric acid 0.06 sodium hyaluronate 0.05

• *) A CO ₂ extract of amaranth seeds (amaranth oil) is used as the cosmetic active substance or active substance, the nanocapsules containing the cosmetic active substance or active substance in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The mean particle size of the nanocapsules is from 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is at most 150 nm.

Example 7: Intensive cream based on thistle oil ingredients: % water ad 100 lanolin 13,00 hydrogenated vegetable oil 5.00 Butyrospermum-parkii butter 4.50 glycerin 4.00 Sorbitan oleate, 3-polyglycerol ricinoleate 4.00 Carthamus tinctorius oil (safflower oil) 4.00 Glycine soybean oil (soybean oil) 2.20 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 3.00 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 3.00 Sorbitanolivat 3.00 squalane 3.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 2.00 3-Polyglycerylpolyricinoleat 2.00 Cera Alba (beeswax, double bleached) 2.50 Salvia hispanica (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 benzyl alcohol 0.80 dextrin 1.50 Magnesium sulfate (epsom salt) 1.00 tocopherol 0.50 Perfume, benzyl alcohol, cinnamal, citral, coumarin, euge 0.50 nol, farnesol, geraniol, isoeugenol, limonene, linalool glyceryl 0.50 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitates, ascorbic acid, citric acid 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides potassium sorbate 0.20 sodium benzoate 0.20 citric acid 0,014

• *) Salvia hispanica is used in the form of a CO ₂ extract of chia seeds. The nanocapsules have the active substance or active substance in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules used have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules is in aqueous dilution (1: 100) a maximum of 150 nm.

Example 8: Relaxing day cream based on thistle oil ingredients: % water ad 100 Caprylic and Capric Acid Triglycerides 10.00 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 6.00 cetearyl 5.00 glycerin 4.50 Shorea butter stenoptera 4.00 Carthamus tinctorius oil (safflower oil) 3.00 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 3.00 Prunus amygdalus dulcis-oil 2.00 glyceryl stearate 2.00 Mangifera indica seed oil 1.00 Salvia hispanica (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol 1.00 xanthan gum 1.00 tocopherol 0.50 Perfume, benzyl alcohol, cinnamal, citral, coumarin, euge 0.50 nol, farnesol, geraniol, isoeugenol, limonene, linalool benzyl alcohol 0.50 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 citric acid 0.05

• *) Salvia hispanica is used in the form of a CO ₂ extract of chia seeds. The nanocapsules have the active substance or active substance in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules used have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules is in aqueous dilution (1: 100) a maximum of 150 nm.

Example 9: Regenerating night cream based on thistle oil ingredients: % water ad 100 glycerin 3.00 Caprylic and Capric Acid Triglycerides 10.00 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 6.00 Shorea butter stenoptera 5.00 Stearic acid, palmitic acid 5.00 Carthamus tinctorius oil (safflower oil) 3.00 Oenothera biennis oil (evening primrose oil) 2.00 glyceryl stearate 2.00 Olea-europea oil (olive oil) 1.00 Salvia hispanica (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Cetearyl glucosides, cetearyl alcohol 1.00 xanthan gum 1.00 tocopherol 0.50 citric acid 0.05 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides benzyl alcohol 0.50 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium benzoate 0.20 Perfume, benzyl alcohol, cinnamal, citral, coumarin, euge 0.50 nol, farnesol, geraniol, isoeugenol, limonene, linalool

• *) Salvia hispanica is used in the form of a CO ₂ extract of chia seeds. The nanocapsules have the active substance or active substance in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules used have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules is in aqueous dilution (1: 100) a maximum of 150 nm.

Example 10 Anti-wrinkle Cream Based on Blackcurrant ingredients: % water ad 100 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 5.00 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 4.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 3.50 glycerin 3.00 glyceryl stearate 3.00 Shorea butter stenoptera 3.00 squalane 2.50 oleate 2.00 cetearyl 2.00 Glycine soybean oil (soybean oil) 2.00 Alcohol, water, Acmella oleracea extract 1.00 Sclerocarya birrea (Marula oil) (nano encapsulated) * 1.00 Ribes nigrum fructis extract (blackcurrants) 1.00 Extract), water, alcohol Cetearyl glucosides, cetearyl alcohol 1.00 xanthan gum 0.80 benzyl alcohol 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 Stearic acid, palmitic acid 0.50 Perfume, lime, linalool, citral 0.30 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitates, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium hyaluronate 0.10 Aloe barbadensis extract 0,075

• *) Sclerocarya birrea is used in the form of marula oil, with the nanocapsules used containing marula oil in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is a maximum of 200 nm.

Example 11: Multi-purpose cream based on black currant ingredients: water ad 100 glycerin 6.00 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 4.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 3.50 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 3.00 glyceryl stearate 3.00 oleate 2.50 cetearyl 2.00 squalane 2.00 Shorea butter stenoptera 2.00 Cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Sclerocarya birrea oil (Marula oil) (nanocapsulated) * 1.00 Ribes nigrum fructis extract (blackcurrants) 1.00 Extract), water, alcohol Stearic acid, palmitic acid 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 benzyl alcohol 0.50 xanthan gum 0.50 gellan gum 0.50 Perfume, lime, linalool, citral 0.40 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitates, ascorbic acid, lemons 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 sodium hyaluronate 0.10 Aloe barbadensis extract 0,075

• *) Sclerocarya birrea is used in the form of marula oil, with the nanocapsules used containing marula oil in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is a maximum of 200 nm.

Example 12: Active night cream based on black currant ingredients: % water ad 100 Helianthus annuus-seed oil 6.00 Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 5.00 Glycine soybean oil (soybean oil) 4.00 Hydrogenated coconut oil 3.50 glycerin 3.00 Glycerylstearatcitrate 3.00 oleate 2.50 cetearyl 2.00 squalane 2.00 Shorea butter stenoptera 2.00 Cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Sclerocarya birrea oil (Marula oil) (nanocapsulated) * 1.00 Ribes nigrum fructis extract (blackcurrants) 1.00 Extract), water, alcohol Stearic acid, palmitic acid 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 benzyl alcohol 0.50 xanthan gum 0.50 Perfume 0.50 Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, citric acid 0.20 acid, alcohol, caprylic and capric triglycerides sodium benzoate 0.20 potassium sorbate 0.15 Aloe barbadensis extract 0,075 sodium hyaluronate 0.05

• *) Sclerocarya birrea is used in the form of marula oil, with the nanocapsules used containing marula oil in an amount of 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsules. The nanocapsules have an average particle size of 30 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the nanocapsules in aqueous dilution (1: 100) is a maximum of 200 nm.

Marketing surveillance:

The Depth effectiveness of the cosmetic compositions of the invention in their topical application on the skin or bioavailability of cosmetic active or active substance in deeper skin layers was determined by means of an indirect method for determining penetration the cosmetic active or active substance with respect to the horny layer the skin ("skin penetration test").

In a first group of a total of ten subjects (32 to 55 years, five male and five female persons), the cosmetic composition according to the invention was used, in which the cosmetic active substance or active substance was nanopacked ("with nanocapsules"). Coenzyme Q _{10 was} used as the cosmetic active substance or active substance. The amount of nanocapsules in the composition of the invention was 2% by weight. The amount of coenzyme Q ₁₀ in the nanocapsules was 20% by weight, based on the nanocapsule. Thus, the amount of coenzyme Q ₁₀ in the composition was 0.4% by weight based on the composition. As capsule material contained the nanocapsules 2 wt .-% lecithin and 55 wt .-% glycerol, based on the nanocapsules, and water.

As a comparison, a comparative composition was used in ten other subjects (25 to 52 years, five male and five female persons), which had a carrier phase comparable to the composition according to the invention (aqueous ointment base). However, the comparative composition did not have any nanocapsules ("unencapsulated"). The cosmetic active ingredient in the form of coenzyme Q ₁₀ was not encapsulated and was incorporated directly into the carrier phase. The non-inventive composition had, based on the composition, 0.4 wt .-% coenzyme Q ₁₀ on. Coenzyme Q ₁₀ was thus, in relation to the total composition, in the same amount as in the composition according to the invention. The difference to the composition of the invention was that coenzyme Q _{10 is} not integrated or incorporated in a nanoparticulate carrier structure in the form of nanocapsules was.

The Depth effectiveness of the compositions described above or the bioavailability of the cosmetic active or active substance was determined by first the respective test substances in specific amounts at the respective Groups were applied to defined skin areas of the subjects. at all Subjects were applied to another area of skin with a nano-capsule-free control composition, which at the same carrier phase had no cosmetic active substance ("untreated"). To two different times, namely at t = 45 min and t = 90 min after application of the compositions, samples of the upper skin layer (stratum corneum) were taken and analyzed for the content of cosmetic active substance.

1 shows the result of this series of experiments. It can be seen that in the non-inventive composition ("untreated") with respect to the higher skin layers relatively high concentrations of the active or active substance are present, with a nearly constant concentration can be observed over time. In contrast, with the composition according to the invention ("with nanocapsules") at both measurement times (t = 45 min and t = 90 min), a lower concentration of coenzyme Q ₁₀ in the upper skin layers compared to the non-inventive composition is present in the upper skin layers Course decreases. This is due to the fact that with respect to the composition according to the invention with a comparable inflow of the active or active substance (comparable total concentrations of coenzyme Q ₁₀ in the composition according to the invention and the non-inventive composition), the discharge is significantly improved in the deeper skin layers than in the comparative composition. In the case of the composition according to the invention, there is thus a significantly improved transport of the cosmetic active or active substance into deeper skin layers compared to the prior art, so that the depth effectiveness and thus the bioavailability at the site of action with respect to the composition according to the invention are significant in comparison to the prior art is improved.

Claims (30)

Cosmetic composition, in particular for topical application to the skin, wherein the composition contains in cosmetically effective amounts at least one cosmetic active and / or active together with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, characterized in that the cosmetic active and / or active substance at least partially is present in a nanoparticulate carrier structure in the form of nanocapsules and / or contained. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized that the Amount of nanocapsules in the composition 0.001 to 99% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 60 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 50 wt .-%, based on the composition is. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the nanocapsules have an average capsule size (D ₅₀ ) of 0.1 to 1000 nm, in particular 0.5 to 500 nm, preferably 1 to 300 nm, particularly preferably 1.5 to 200 nm , exhibit. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules in the form of core / shell capsules and / or matrix capsules. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (1,013 hPa) solid or liquid, preferably liquid, are. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules as nanovesicles, nanoliposomes and / or nanomicells are formed. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules have at least one capsule material, in particular the amount of capsule material in the nanocapsules is 10 to 99.99 Wt .-%, in particular 20 to 99.9 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 99.5 Wt .-%, preferably 60 to 99 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules, is. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules at least one cosmetic active and / or active exhibit. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized that the Amount of the cosmetic active and / or active substance in the nanocapsules 0.01 to 90 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 up to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 40% by weight, based on the nanocapsules, is. A composition according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the weight ratio between capsule material and cosmetic active and / or active substance in the range of 1,000: 1 to 1: 100, in particular 500: 1 to 1:50, preferably 100: 1 to 1:10, preferably 90: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably 85: 1 to 1: 1, most preferably 80: 1 to 2: 1, is. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules at least one biocompatible, physiologically compatible and / or tolerated, have degradable and / or metabolizable capsule material. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules at least one hydrophobic and / or lipophilic capsule material contain and / or that the Nanocapsules a capsule material with hydrophobic and / or lipophilic Areas and / or sections. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules at least one hydrophilic and / or lipophobic capsule material contain and / or that the Nanocapsules a capsule material with hydrophilic and / or lipophobic Areas and / or sections. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules contain at least one amphipathic capsule material. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the capsule material the nanocapsules at least one component from the group of (A) Lipids, preferably from the group of lecithins, phospholipids, Phosphatidylcholines, in particular based on soybean extract and / or in particular in unsaturated and / or hydrogenated form; (b) polyols, especially glycerol; (C) Carbohydrates, in particular fructose and / or sorbitol; or their mixtures, optionally together with water. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules as capsule material (phospho) lipids and / or lecithins together with polyols and / or carbohydrates, optionally in addition with water. A composition according to claim 15 or 16, characterized characterized in that Nanocapsules (phospho) lipids and / or lecithins in an amount of 0.01 to 80 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules, contain and / or that the Nanocapsules (phospho) lipids and / or lecithins in an amount of up to 80% by weight, in particular up to 40% by weight, preferably up to to 20% by weight, preferably up to 10% by weight, based on the nanocapsules, contain. A composition according to any one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the Nanocapsules Polyols and / or carbohydrates, preferably polyols, in an amount of 1 to 95% by weight, in particular 5 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 85 wt .-%, preferably 20 to 80 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules, and / or that the nanocapsules contain polyols and / or Carbohydrates, preferably polyols, in an amount of up to 95 Wt .-%, in particular up to 90 wt .-%, preferably up to 85 wt .-%, preferably up to 80 wt .-%, based on the nanocapsules contain. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Composition of the nanocapsules in amounts of 0.01 to 90 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, based on the composition contains. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Composition of the active and / or active in amounts of 0.0001 to 80% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the composition, contains. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Active substance and / or active substance a substance having (skin) nourishing and / or (skin) regenerating action and / or a substance having (skin) aging preventing and / or (skin) aging reducing activity and / or a substance having ( skin) moisture-regulating and / or (skin) fat-regulating action and / or a substance with (skin) tone-regulating effect and / or a substance with (skin) wrinkle-preventing and / or (skin) wrinkle-reducing action and / or a substance with (skin) teintregulierender and / or (skin) tanning regulating effect. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that the active substance and / or active selected is from the group of vitamins, enzymes and coenzymes, minerals and Minerals, trace elements, (micro-) nutrients, herbal ingredients, herbal extracts and vegetable oils, radical scavengers and UV protection substances. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Composition further ingredients, in particular pH-adjusting agents, pH buffers, dyes, perfumes and perfumes, processing aids, Thickeners, lubricants, stabilizers, emulsifiers, surfactants, preservatives, consistency control agents, thickeners, detergent substances or mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Composition as aqueous based System or as aqueous-oily based System exists. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Composition as a suspension or emulsion, preferably as an emulsion, especially as an oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion, particularly preferred as an oil-in-water emulsion. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that Composition as ointment, cream, gel, paste, lotion, or spray the like is formulated. Use of a composition according to the preceding claims to increase bioavailability of cosmetic active and / or Active substances, especially in their topical application. Use according to claim 27, characterized by one or more features of the characterizing part of claims 1 to 26th Method for increasing the bioavailability and / or to increase the effective efficiency of cosmetic active substances and / or active substances, especially in their topical application, wherein the cosmetic active ingredients and / or active ingredients introduced in a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application be characterized in that the cosmetic active and / or Active substances at least partially in a nanoparticulate carrier structure incorporated and / or incorporated in the form of nanocapsules. A method according to claim 28, characterized by one or more features of the characterizing part of claims 1 to 26th