Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide and a kind ofly tear the yarn that sheet is formed with artistic characteristics again open after yarn is made into hand-drawing dyeing behind the cloth sheet, fixation treatment, weave again and form the whole production method of the fabric that shows unique characteristics.Utilize textile design unique style that the method produces, be full of variety, every ready-made clothes is not quite similar on pattern, make the clothes individual character obviously, rich color, have more abstract meaning.
The technical solution used in the present invention is as follows:
A kind of manufacturing method of fabrics, it mainly may further comprise the steps:
(1) yarn weaving becomes cloth sheet or garment piece;
(2) washing pre-treatment;
(3) fabric hand-painted coloration;
(4) fixation, washing post processing;
(5) tear sheet open;
(6) be woven into the fabric of cloth sheet or garment piece again;
(7) sew up, put in order and scald.
Wherein, the cloth sheet of step (1) or garment piece are mainly by the knitted in flat knitting machine method weaves the fabric that forms, and the employing main raw material is the fabric of the various skill of handling needles that are made into of all size yarns such as cotton, viscose glue, silk, wool, rabbit suede, nylon, acrylic fibers, terylene.
Step (2) fabric washing pre-treatment is processing mode and washing of yarn property branch and the bleeding agent preliminary treatment dual mode according to fabric; Wherein, washing is that conventional low temperature of known technology or high temperature are washed; The bleeding agent preliminary treatment: the fabric not good at water imbibition adopts penetrant treating, makes it have water imbibition, increases the wetting property of dyestuff to fabric, makes Freehandhand-drawing production be easier to carry out.Bleeding agent can be used the oxireme addition product and the low carbon fat alcohol ethylene oxide condensate of nonyl phenol and octyl phenol, fatty alcohol-polyoxyethylene ether, the ether product that oxirane, expoxy propane and higher aliphatic are made is as all kinds of bleeding agents or wetting agents such as penetrating agent JFC, penetrant ts.
The application number that step (3), step (4) can adopt prior art and the applicant to submit to is 2005110033819.9 technology.
Wherein, the hand-painted coloration of step (3): the dyestuff of use can adopt REACTIVE DYES, acidity, neutrality or DISPERSE DYES, as Reactive Brilliant Blue KN-R, reactive brilliant red x-3b, active green KE-4B, and bisazo type navy ACID DYES, neutral pink BL106; Disperse lemon yellow 302 etc., each component and quality percentage composition thereof are in the dye composite:
Thickener 0~12%
Dyestuff 0~15%
Urea 1~15%
Sodium bicarbonate 0~8%
M-nitrobenzene sodium sulfonate 0~3%
Surfactant 0~3%
Add hydration and become 100%.
Thickener can be used sodium alginate, etherificate seed glue, emulsion thickening, starch ether, imperial glue, cellulose ether etc.The addition of thickener requires to decide with effect on Freehandhand-drawing, and consumption is preferably between 0~6%.
Surfactant is the additive when various waterproof cloth cover Freehandhand-drawing, or picture adds need special effect occur the time.Surfactant is a kind of in CATION, nonionic, anion and the amphion of prior art or several, as the fatty alcohol ethylene oxide condensate.Whether the difference that the dyestuff kind is looked in the interpolation of other various auxiliary agents decides it to add and addition.
For cotton, viscose glue, part silk fabrics, be suitable for REACTIVE DYES, its optimization formula is:
Thickener 0~12%
Dyestuff 0~15%
Urea 3%~15%
Sodium bicarbonate 1%~8%
M-nitrobenzene sodium sulfonate 1%~3%
Surfactant 0%~3%
Surfactant herein can use the fatty alcohol ethylene oxide condensate.
Thickener can be sodium alginate, emulsion thickening etc.
For wool, cashmere, rabbit suede, silk fabric, be suitable for acid, neutral dye, its optimization formula is:
Thickener 0~12%
Dyestuff 0~15%
Urea 3%~15%
Surfactant 0%~3%
Printing and dyeing acid 0~3%
Wherein, can add an amount of as required as 0~3% printing and dyeing acid.
Surfactant herein can use the fatty alcohol ethylene oxide condensate.
For dacron, be suitable for and disperse the class dyestuff, its formula optimization is:
Thickener 0~12%
Dyestuff 0~15%
Urea 2%~15%
Surfactant 0%~3%
Printing and dyeing acid 0~3%.
Wherein, can add an amount of as required as 0~3% printing and dyeing acid.
Surfactant herein can use the fatty alcohol ethylene oxide condensate.
In this step, Freehandhand-drawing adopt pen dye, brush dye, spray-painting, inscription rubbing, pin are colluded, spill dye, auxiliary agent is polished, resist printing.
Wherein pen dyes, brushes and dye for directly dye liquor being painted on the fabric according to design flower type with all kinds of pen-type tool such as writing brush, spread pen, hairbrush.
Spray-painting is sprayed on dye liquor on the fabric for using watering can or spray gun.
Pin colludes to using needle tubing that dye liquor slurry etc. is colluded on fabric by design flower type.
Auxiliary agent is polished: by design flower type the Freehandhand-drawing auxiliary agent of various different-styles and effect is polished drip picture or pen dyes or silk screen is stenciled etc. or two or more at least arbitrarily mode Freehandhand-drawing to fabric.
Resist printing: utilize pin to collude or the method for brush brushes resist agent at cloth cover earlier with resist agent, Freehandhand-drawing again under wet or the state done, oven dry, steam wash after, have the cloth cover of resist agent white or light decorative pattern can occur.Resist agent is different with the resist printing in the stamp, if the main medium-thick type fabric of producing adopts dye liquor to carry out Freehandhand-drawing, if use the resist agent in the stamp, its resist printing poor effect so adopt the resist agent of high molecular surfactant, is strengthened its resist printing effect.
The technological process of step (4) is: evaporate after the Freehandhand-drawing; Washing (loose colour is cleaned); Oven dry at last.
Fuller's skill condition is 102~190 ℃ of decatizes (or curing) 2~60 minutes after the Freehandhand-drawing, and washing gets final product with prior art.For cotton, viscose glue, part silk fabrics, steam and washed 4~30 minutes; For wool, cashmere, rabbit suede, silk etc., steam and washed 40~60 minutes; For dacron etc., steam and washed 40~60 minutes.The technology of evaporating of REACTIVE DYES is: 102~105 ℃ of decatizes 2~30 minutes, or the method for baking is 150 ℃ and baked 3~5 minutes; The technology of evaporating acid, neutral dye is: 102~105 ℃ of decatizes 40~60 minutes; Disperse the technology of evaporating of class dyestuff to be: 1.47 * 10
5~1.76 * 10
5Pa, 128~130 ℃, 20~30 minutes, or 175~185 ℃, 6~10 minutes.If use neutral dye in the Freehandhand-drawing process, adopt low temperature (as the 50 ℃) washing (removal floating color) of prior art; If use DISPERSE DYES in the Freehandhand-drawing process, get final product in 80 ℃ of washings (removal floating color).If use REACTIVE DYES in the Freehandhand-drawing process, also can behind the washing removal floating color, further soap.
If also used the Freehandhand-drawing auxiliary agent that contains the color-fixing agent class, can directly soap need not to dye again and forms finished product in the Freehandhand-drawing, also can dye simultaneously soaping again.At this moment, Freehandhand-drawing clothes background color is based on middle light color.
When dyeing simultaneously when soaping, washing removal floating color and local dyeing are carried out simultaneously again.This kind method and Freehandhand-drawing are adjuvant used relevant in producing.
The use of soaping and dye:
Anti-fouling agent 2g/L~15g/L in vain
Detergent 2g/L~15g/L
Dyestuff≤5g/L
Under 80 ℃~90 ℃, carried out 5~15 minutes.
Because color-fixing agent is a cationic, with anionic dye strong adsorptivity is arranged, therefore in high temperature was soaped process, cloth cover did not have the part of color-fixing agent because the effect of anti-fouling agent in vain, dyestuff does not dye on not understanding, but dyes owing to the strong adsorption effect of color-fixing agent makes on the dyestuff at the position that color-fixing agent is arranged.Freehandhand-drawing clothes background color must be good with middle light color, otherwise because the dyestuff lower and DeGrain of dye-uptake once more.
The sheet of tearing open of step (5) is: break with the cloth sheet that the form of craft or machine will (1), (2), (3), (4) step be finished through the front, be reduced into initial yarn winding method, must follow certain orientation when breaking, and in the process of breaking, must avoid broken end, otherwise can cause the change of finished product pattern;
The fabric that is woven into cloth sheet or garment piece again of described step (6) is: the yarn of winding in the step (5) is made into cloth sheet or garment piece more again.
At last cloth sheet or the garment piece that weaves required it is stitched into ready-made clothes in accordance with regulations whole scalding.
The formation of special artistic effect of the present invention is mainly in step (3), (5), (6), and itself and traditional processing method relatively have following unique distinction:
Step (3) is for realizing whether fabric has an important ring of unique artistic effect, and the control of the shape of cloth sheet or garment piece, Freehandhand-drawing flower type, whole tone all has direct relation with the artistic effect of the finished product of final formation.Fabric is the formation that square or rectangular helps its final effect, and in addition, the zone of the size of pattern, color must strict control during Freehandhand-drawing, only gets hold of tone and could finally control the tone of whole finished product well when Freehandhand-drawing.
Step (5) also is an important ring of the formation of whole fabric, because it is closely related to tear the colored type and the effect of the trend of yarn behind the sheet and length and finished product open.
Step (6) is key one ring that forms finished product, can adopt the method for knitting or tatting when weaving again, and method when weaving and finished size size closely link to each other with final artistic effect.
The ready-made clothes that utilize the present invention to produce have following characteristics:
1, unique style
Since the present invention adopts be knit earlier, after the procedure of painting, tearing open sheet, knitting again, thereby the unique style of its finished product, graphic change multiterminal, the abstract art effect is obvious.
2, obviously personalized
Even the ready-made clothes of same style, owing to adopt peculiar methods of the present invention, the final style of finished product still has the otherness of " similar ".Therefore, the ready-made clothes of same lot number, whole style is roughly unified, but every still can present different characteristic appearances, more can realize the individual demand of modern to clothes.
3, rich color has manual characteristic
Because in the hand-painted coloration process, used a large amount of colors to reach the variation of figure, and the processing mode that has utilized this utmost point of Freehandhand-drawing favored by the modern, compare with the regularity of section dyeing and weaving thing, make artistry obtain bigger embodiment, thereby its processed finished products color is abundanter, and manual characteristic is more obvious, more meets modern's esthetic sentiment.