Production process of free-cutting sandwich bra comparison fabric
Technical Field
The invention belongs to a production process of fabric, and particularly relates to a production process of free-cutting sandwich bra specific fabric.
Background
The conventional bra comparison method in the market has several methods, one is that as shown in fig. 1, the bra comparison method generally uses mesh cloth with a bottom surrounding mesh belt, and the mesh cloth has good air permeability, but the bottom surrounding mesh belt is harder and tighter, the body can be marked after wearing, and the wearing experience is poor; the other is that as shown in fig. 2, the double-sided fabric is cut randomly, the fabric can be cut randomly, and is seamless and comfortable to wear, but the brassiere has poor ventilation property compared with the wearing, especially in summer, and is easy to smother. Meanwhile, the stress of the bra on the position is mostly on the bottom wall, the stability of wearing the bra depends on the position, the elastic material used by the bottom wall is required to have good strength, good elasticity and good rebound, so that the front chest and the position are balanced after wearing, and the health of the breasts is ensured. Therefore, the choice of the bottom surrounding material is important, most of the bottom surrounding materials in the market use the braid as the bottom surrounding, because the braid has good strength and good resilience force, the bottom surrounding braid is thicker than the chest and is balanced with the front and back of the position, under the requirement of strength, the hand feeling is hard, because the technical limit of the braid machine table can not be as soft and light as the fabric, the wearing thickness can produce foreign body feeling, and because the structural problem edge of the braid needs to be made into a edging process, the edge is sharp, the fat person after wearing can grind the skin, and the back can be tied into a trace by the braid, thereby bringing bad wearing experience feeling to the user.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a production process of a free-cutting sandwich bra specific fabric, which can solve at least one of the problems.
According to one aspect of the invention, a production process of a free-cutting sandwich bra specific fabric is provided, comprising the following steps:
s1, selecting a 40-needle 34 inch 72-path weft knitting double-sided circular knitting machine;
S2, knitting yarns in a selected weft knitting double-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a fabric body;
S3, dyeing and finishing the obtained fabric body, wherein the dyeing and finishing process is as follows: degreasing, pre-shaping, dyeing and post-shaping;
In step S2, the fabric body comprises a surface layer, a connecting layer and an inner layer, wherein the surface layer and the inner layer are connected through the connecting layer, and the organization structure of the fabric body is as follows: 2 knitting needles and 10 paths of yarns are adopted to form a complete-cycle double-sided sandwich structure; the fabric body adopts 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY as surface layer yarn and inner layer yarn, and adopts 70D spandex as lining yarn and connecting yarn, when the fabric body is woven, the 1 st path and the 6 th path form connecting layers, the 2 nd path, the 4 th path, the 7 th path and the 9 th path form inner layers, and the 3 rd path, the 5 th path, the 8 th path and the 10 th path form surface layers.
In some embodiments, in step S2, the doffing manner of the fabric body is: the 1 st, 6 th paths of the connecting layer are made of connecting yarn 70D spandex, the 2 nd, 4 th, 7 th and 9 th paths of the inner layer are made of 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY as the inner layer yarn, the inner layer yarn is knitted together with the lining yarn 70D spandex, and the 3 rd, 5 th, 8 th and 10 th paths of the surface layer are made of 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY as the surface layer yarn and are knitted together with the lining yarn 70D spandex.
In some embodiments, in step S2, the pin arrangement manner of the fabric body is: the needle dial is arranged according to two stages of needles of 2 and 1; the needle cylinder is arranged according to 1 and 2 stages of needles, and the needle disc needle cylinder is in a needle-oriented form.
In some embodiments, the yarn arrangement in step S2 is as follows: the fabric body adopts the 1 st path of needle disc knitting needle odd-numbered needle tucking and even-numbered needle plain stitch, and the needle cylinder knitting needle odd-numbered needle plain stitch and even-numbered needle tucking; the 6 th path is used for knitting odd-numbered needle flat circles and even-numbered needle flat circles according to the dial, and knitting odd-numbered needle flat circles and even-numbered needle flat circles according to the needle cylinder; the 2 nd and 9 th paths are used for discharging needles according to the odd needles and the even needles of the dial needles and flattening the needles, and the needle cylinder needles are flattened completely; the 4 th and 7 th paths are used for flattening the odd needles and the even needles according to the dial needles and discharging the even needles, and the needle cylinder needles are flattened completely; 3, the 10 th path is used for knitting all plain needles according to the dial, and the odd needles and the even needles of the needle cylinder are used for plain needles and the even needles are used for needle outlet; and 5, knitting all plain needles according to the dial, and discharging odd needles and even needles of the needle cylinder knitting needles.
In some embodiments, the yarn feed amount of the fabric body is: the yarn feeding length of the surface layer yarn and the inner layer yarn 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY is 14cm and the yarn feeding length of the lining yarn and the connecting yarn 70D spandex is 6.5cm calculated according to the length of 100 loops.
In some embodiments, the degreasing in step S3 includes rinsing machine degreasing and setting machine degreasing.
In some embodiments, the pre-shaping in step S3 is performed in a shaping machine, the shaping temperature is 202-205 ℃, the machine speed is 9-12 m/min, and the fabric is subjected to the following specifications: 135cm 380g/m 2.
In some embodiments, the post-shaping in step S3 is performed in a shaping machine, the shaping temperature is 180-185 ℃, the machine speed is 25-30 m/min, and the fabric is subjected to the machine-off specification: 132cm 380g/m 2.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows: the fabric body adopts a 2-branch knitting needle 10-way yarn structure through a corresponding needle arrangement mode, a yarn arrangement doffing mode, a tissue structure and the like, so that the fabric body has certain compactness, has bearing force and is not easy to deform; the fabric has good rebound resilience, is softer and lighter than the woven belt, has good ventilation effect, is seamless and comfortable to wear, does not have meat tightening, and is suitable for a wide range of people.
Meanwhile, when the fabric body is knitted, each path corresponds to corresponding yarns, the connecting layer adopts connecting yarns 70D spandex, and the knitting needle is subjected to odd needle tucking and even needle tucking according to the dial, namely, the 1 st path is subjected to needle tucking according to the odd needles and the even needles, and the needle cylinder is subjected to odd needle tucking and even needles; the 6 th path is knitted according to the odd needle flat circles and the even needle flat circles of the dial knitting needles, and the needle cylinder knitting needles are used for knitting, so that the surface layer and the inner layer are tightly connected, and the rebound performance is good. Meanwhile, the 70D spandex is used as the lining yarn for the surface layer and the inner layer, so that the whole fabric is not easy to deform, has good rebound resilience, is not inferior to a woven belt in strength, is softer and lighter than the woven belt, is seamless in wearing, is comfortable and does not have meat tightening; the strength of the fabric can meet the requirement of bra bottom from cup A to cup F, and the bra is suitable for a wide range of people.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the actual position of one of the conventional bra in the market.
FIG. 2 is a diagram showing another example of the comparative bra in the prior art.
FIG. 3 is a schematic representation of a process for weaving a free-cutting sandwich bra with a face fabric weave.
FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the structure of a knitted fabric of a free-cutting sandwich bra.
FIG. 5 is a triangular structure of a free-cutting sandwich bra specific fabric.
FIG. 6 is a pictorial view of the free-cutting sandwich bra specific fabric of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention is described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Referring to fig. 3 to 6, the thick thread in fig. 2 is a knitting stitch state of the face yarn, and the thin thread is a knitting state of the backing yarn and the connecting yarn. A production process of a free-cutting sandwich bra specific fabric comprises the following steps:
S1, selecting a 40-needle 34 inch 72-path weft knitting double-sided circular knitting machine; wherein, the speed of the knitting machine is 10-15 revolutions/min.
S2, knitting yarns in a selected weft knitting double-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a fabric body;
S3, dyeing and finishing the obtained fabric body, wherein the dyeing and finishing process is as follows: degreasing, pre-shaping, dyeing and post-shaping;
In step S2, the fabric body comprises a surface layer, a connecting layer and an inner layer, wherein the surface layer and the inner layer are connected through the connecting layer, and the organization structure of the fabric body is as follows: 2 knitting needles and 10 paths of yarns are adopted to form a complete-cycle double-sided sandwich structure; the fabric body adopts 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY (Draw texturing yarn stretch textured yarn) as surface layer yarn and inner layer yarn, and adopts 70D spandex as lining yarn and connecting yarn, when the fabric body is woven, the 1 st path and the 6 th path form connecting layers, the 2 nd path, the 4 th path, the 7 th path and the 9 th path form inner layers, and the 3 rd path, the 5 th path, the 8 th path and the 10 th path form surface layers. Through adopting 2 knitting needle 10 way yarns to form a complete cycle, 10 way one cycle is adopted in the triangle arrangement promptly for the surface fabric body forms two-sided sandwich structure, has guaranteed the supporting force of surface fabric to a certain extent.
When the fabric body is woven, a 40-needle 34-inch 72-way weft knitting double-sided circular knitting machine is selected, so that the fabric with a high-density durable compact structure can be conveniently woven.
In step S2, the doffing mode of the fabric body is as follows: the 1 st, 6 th paths of the connecting layer are made of connecting yarn 70D spandex, the 2 nd, 4 th, 7 th and 9 th paths of the inner layer are made of 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY as the inner layer yarn, the inner layer yarn is knitted together with the lining yarn 70D spandex, and the 3 rd, 5th, 8 th and 10 th paths of the surface layer are made of 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY as the surface layer yarn and are knitted together with the lining yarn 70D spandex. Therefore, the knitting forming of each layer of the fabric body is facilitated, and the fabric is not easy to deform.
In step S2, the pin arrangement mode of the fabric body is as follows: the needle dial is arranged according to two stages of needles of 2 and 1; the needle cylinder is arranged according to 1 and 2 stages of needles, and the needle disc needle cylinder is in a needle-oriented form.
The yarn arrangement mode in the step S2 is as follows: the fabric body adopts the 1 st path of needle disc knitting needle odd-numbered needle tucking and even-numbered needle plain stitch, and the needle cylinder knitting needle odd-numbered needle plain stitch and even-numbered needle tucking; the 6 th path is used for knitting odd-numbered needle flat circles and even-numbered needle flat circles according to the dial, and knitting odd-numbered needle flat circles and even-numbered needle flat circles according to the needle cylinder; the 2 nd and 9 th paths are used for discharging needles according to the odd needles and the even needles of the dial needles and flattening the needles, and the needle cylinder needles are flattened completely; the 4 th and 7 th paths are used for flattening the odd needles and the even needles according to the dial needles and discharging the even needles, and the needle cylinder needles are flattened completely; 3, the 10 th path is used for knitting all plain needles according to the dial, and the odd needles and the even needles of the needle cylinder are used for plain needles and the even needles are used for needle outlet; and 5, knitting all plain needles according to the dial, and discharging odd needles and even needles of the needle cylinder knitting needles.
Therefore, when the fabric body is knitted, each path corresponds to corresponding yarns, the connecting layer adopts connecting yarns 70D spandex, and the knitting needle is subjected to odd needle tucking and even needle tucking according to the dial, namely, the 1 st path is subjected to needle cylinder knitting needle odd needle tucking and even needle tucking; the 6 th path is knitted according to the odd needle flat circles and the even needle flat circles of the dial knitting needles, and the needle cylinder knitting needles are used for knitting, so that the surface layer and the inner layer are tightly connected, and the rebound performance is good. Meanwhile, the 70D spandex is used as the lining yarn for the surface layer and the inner layer, so that the whole fabric is not easy to deform, has good rebound resilience, is not inferior to a woven belt in strength, is softer and lighter than the woven belt, is seamless in wearing, is comfortable and does not have meat tightening; the strength of the fabric can meet the requirement of bra bottom from cup A to cup F, and the bra is suitable for a wide range of people.
Meanwhile, the fabric uses the weave structure of 10 paths of yarns of 2 knitting needles, so that the fabric body has a compact structure; and the surface layer and the inner layer both adopt 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY yarns, the yarns have stronger cotton feel and bone feel, and the yarns are matched with spandex with heavy denier as the lining yarns and the connecting layer yarns, so that the fabric has very good recovery performance, is infinitely close to 100% recovery rate, and is not easy to burr after the edges of cut pieces are washed after being cut.
The yarn feeding amount of the fabric body is as follows: the yarn feeding length of the surface layer yarn and the inner layer yarn 20D/20F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon 66DTY is 14cm and the yarn feeding length of the lining yarn and the connecting yarn 70D spandex is 6.5cm calculated according to the length of 100 loops. Therefore, the fabric has better rebound performance through the yarn feeding amount, and the application range is improved.
The thickness of the fabric body obtained by the production process is 0.7mm, so that the effect of light weight and thinness is achieved, and the air permeability is greatly improved.
And when the fabric body is woven, performing a step S3, wherein the oil removal in the step S3 comprises the oil removal of a washing machine and the oil removal of a setting machine, and rolling the fabric body to the oil removal process of the setting machine by using an A-type machine after the oil removal of the washing machine. Therefore, the oil agent in the weaving process and the yarn can be well cleaned uniformly through double oil removal, so that color patterns are prevented from being generated in the dyeing process, meanwhile, the hidden trouble of overlapping folds caused by overlong stacking time of wet cloth can be reduced due to the process of rolling the A-shaped vehicle to a setting machine for oil removal after the oil removal by washing, and the quality stability of the product is improved.
The step S3 of pre-shaping is carried out in a shaping machine, the shaping temperature is 202-205 ℃, the machine speed is 9-12 m/min, and the fabric is subjected to the following specification: 135cm 380g/m 2. Therefore, the fabric specification is stable, and the crease and the chicken feet mark are reduced in the dyeing process of the fabric.
And step S3, performing post-shaping in a shaping machine, wherein the shaping temperature is 180-185 ℃, the machine speed is 25-30 m/min, and the fabric is subjected to machine specification after the machine tail trimming treatment: 132cm 380g/m 2. In the actual shaping process, hydrophilic soft oil auxiliary agent for the fabric is added into a trough of a shaping machine during the post shaping, so that the softness of the fabric is improved, the fabric is softer in handfeel, stronger in affinity with skin and more obvious in comfort.
The fabric body produced by the production process of the free-cutting sandwich bra specific fabric is tested, and the test result is as follows: ISO test is carried out under the standard laboratory condition of 20 ℃ and 65% humidity, the dry rubbing fastness of the fabric is more than or equal to 3-4 grade, the wet rubbing fastness is more than or equal to 3 grade, the washing fastness is more than or equal to 3-4 grade, the staining is more than or equal to 3 grade, the water-stain-resistant fastness is more than or equal to 3-4 grade, and the staining is more than or equal to 3 grade; the hook yarn is tested by ASTM D3939, grade 3 in the warp direction and grade 4 in the weft direction; the test of the fuzzing ball is carried out by GB/T4802.1E, the warp direction is 4-5 grade, and the weft direction is 4-5 grade.
Comparing the fabric obtained by the invention with the existing bra specific fabric in the existing figure 2, wherein the material taking specification of the fabric is 132cm x 380g/m 2; the material taking specification of the bra specific fabric in the existing comparison scheme is 132cm x 380g/m 2, and the bra specific fabric and the material taking specification are subjected to corresponding performance tests, and specifically are as follows:
From the test data in the table, the recovery rate of the fabric body is better and is infinitely close to 100%; the thickness is thinner; the appearance in the ready-made clothes is lighter and thinner, more excellent in elasticity, more comfortable in body feeling and more breathable; the modulus is larger and the support is better.
The foregoing is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that modifications and improvements could be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the inventive concept, which fall within the scope of the present invention.