CN118007306A - Warp knitted composite-free single-sided velvet fabric and its production process - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a warp knitted composite-free single-sided velvet fabric and a production process thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. The invention forms terry loops on the front of the process by a special terry loop sinker or by a loop removal method, forms a velvet effect by a velvet shearing process, and fixes the velvet on the bottom by a loop forming method. The bottom uses a high shrinkage material to make the entire fabric have a tight texture, a delicate feel, and a windproof effect.

Description

Warp knitted composite-free single-sided velvet fabric and its production process

Technical Field

The invention relates to a warp-knitted composite-free single-sided velvet fabric and a production process thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles.

Background technique

With the improvement of living standards and the change of consumption concepts, leisure and sports textiles are favored by people, and sports furs are sought after by people. In the field of high-end clothing, fur products made of animal fur meet the requirements of sports furs to a certain extent. Due to factors such as low production and the concept of harmonious coexistence between man and nature, animal fur products are not sought after by the public. There are many categories of single-sided plush products. In the field of weft knitting, common furs include fur strip feeding fur and cut circle fur, but they have problems such as not being windproof and not having a delicate feel; in the field of warp knitting, common furs include pulled fur, split fur, and cut fur, but they have problems such as uneven suede feel and too hard bottom plate, which make them unable to meet the needs of sports furs. At present, the most used sports fur on the market is composite fur, that is, fur with a delicate feel is bonded to a soft and delicate bottom plate by glue, so as to meet the requirements of sports furs such as comfort and windproof.

Summary of the invention

【technical problem】

There are many categories of single-sided plush products. In the field of weft knitting, common furs include fur strip feeding fur and cut fur, but they have problems such as not being windproof and not having a delicate feel. In the field of warp knitting, common furs include drawn fur, split fur, and cut fur, but they have problems such as uneven suede feel and too hard a base. At present, the most commonly used sports fur on the market is composite fur, which is to glue the fur with a delicate feel to the soft and delicate base to meet the requirements of sports fur such as comfort and windproof.

【Technical solutions】

In order to improve the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides a preparation process for a warp-knitted, composite-free single-sided velvet fabric. The production method is simple, and terry loops are formed on the front of the process by a special terry loop sinker or by a de-looping method, and a velvet effect is formed by a velvet shearing process. The velvet is fixed on the bottom by a looping method, and high-shrinkage raw materials are used on the bottom to make the entire fabric have a tight texture, a delicate feel, and a windproof effect.

The first object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a warp knitted composite-free single-sided velvet fabric, which is woven on a warp knitting machine containing a terry sinker, and the selection of each comb structure and the threading method during weaving are:

GB1:1-0/2-3//, full penetration;

GB2:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

GB3:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

GB4:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

Terry sinker POL:0-0/1-1//.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the warp knitting machine is a tricot warp knitting machine. The machine is equipped with 4 combs and a terry plate device. According to the characteristics of the machine, the ground yarn movement of the ground structure is consistent with the lateral movement of the terry sinker bed, and the two perform lateral movement in the same direction and with the same needle distance to knit the single-sided velvet base fabric; the terry velvet is formed by a comb on the front lateral movement line performing lateral movement in a different direction or in the same direction but with different distances as the terry sinker. The terry is sheared to form a composite-free single-sided velvet fabric.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the fabric material is selected from one or more of polyester, wool, elastic polyester, cotton, and spandex.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises the following steps:

1) Material selection: Choose matte polyester/wool blended yarn, two-component elastic polyester (PBT, Sorona, etc.), cotton, spandex, etc. as raw materials;

2) Warping: Warping the selected raw materials on a warping machine according to the requirements of width, horizontal density and yarn penetration rate according to a certain number of ends;

3) Weaving: HKS4-1(P) high-speed tricot warp knitting machine is used for weaving;

4) Finishing: ① shearing, ② combing, ③ washing, ④ shaping, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ shaping;

5) Testing and packaging.

Wherein, the selection of each combing bar structure and the threading method during warping and weaving are:

GB1:1-0/2-3//, full penetration;

GB2:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

GB3:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

GB4:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

POL: 0-0/1-1//.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the yarn and the comb are matched as follows: GB1 uses polyester/wool blended yarn to weave terry; GB2 uses cotton, GB3 uses elastic polyester, and GB4 uses spandex to weave the base fabric.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the yarn and comb are matched as follows: GB1 uses 68Nm~100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn to weave terry; GB2 uses 40s~60s cotton, GB3 uses 50D~100D matte two-component elastic polyester, and GB4 uses 30D~70D spandex to weave the base fabric of the fabric.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the yarn and the comb are matched as follows: GB1 uses any one of 68Nm to 100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn to weave terry; GB2 uses any one of 40s to 60s cotton, GB3 uses any one of 50D to 100D matte two-component elastic polyester (72f to 144f), and GB4 uses any one of 30D to 70D spandex to weave the base fabric of the fabric.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the base fabric of the fabric is woven by matte bi-component elastic polyester, spandex and cotton yarn, and the matte polyester/wool blended yarn is used to form terry pile by a special terry sinker or a loop-dropping method. The height of the terry pile can be adjusted by the fabric density and the needle back traverse number of the combing bar that weaves it. The gram weight can be reasonably adjusted by matching the yarn thickness and the needle back traverse number. Further, the front side of the fabric is used as the back side for wearing. The gram weight of the warp knitted composite-free single-face velvet is 220-420g/ ^m2 .

The second object of the present invention is to provide a warp knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric prepared according to the above method.

The third object of the present invention is to provide a fabric containing the above-mentioned warp knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric.

Beneficial effects of the present invention:

(1) The fabric of the present invention can be prepared in a non-compounding manner, which has high production efficiency and can achieve the effect of imitating fur without compounding, thereby reducing production processes and saving production costs, and reducing the use of glue required for compounding, which is green and environmentally friendly.

(2) The shrinkage of the matte two-component elastic polyester and spandex makes the entire base fabric tighter and more windproof, meeting the needs of sports fur; the reasonable configuration of raw materials can make sweat out of the body faster, making it more comfortable to wear, so that the air permeability of the fabric can reach 21.3mm/s and the moisture permeability can reach 6429.15g/( ^m2 *24h), and the windproof and moisture permeability performance is better than commercially available fabrics.

(3) Compared with warp knitted napped products, the fabric of the present invention has more regular nap and a more delicate hand feel; compared with warp knitted double needle bed split velvet products, the bottom is softer and more delicate, has better elastic recovery performance and is thinner, and can better meet the requirements of single-sided velvet sports fur.

(4) The selection of natural fiber raw materials makes the fabric quality better, and the selection of matte chemical fiber makes the bionic effect better.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of a knitting machine with a terry sinker, 1-groove needle, 2-needle core, 3-ordinary sinker, 4-terry sinker, 5-three-comb device.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the yarn movement of each guide bar in forming a warp knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric using a HKS4-1(P) high-speed tricot warp knitting machine.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the yarn movement of each combing bar when forming a warp-knitted composite-free single-sided velvet fabric using a KS4FBZ terry machine.

Detailed ways

The preferred embodiments of the present invention are described below. It should be understood that the embodiments are for better explaining the present invention and are not used to limit the present invention.

Test of windproof and moisture permeability performance: refer to FZ/T 01149-2019 "Test of windproof and moisture permeability performance of textiles" to measure the windproof and moisture permeability performance of the fabric.

Embodiment 1:

A warp-knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric is composed of the following mass percentages: 45.53% of 100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn, 26.84% of 60s cotton, 23.01% of 75D/96F two-component PBT, and 4.62% of 40D spandex.

The preparation process of the fabric is as follows: the specific process of each process is as follows: including the selection of each combing bar structure, preparation process, warping, weaving, and finishing.

1) Material selection: 100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn, 60s cotton, 75D/96F two-component PBT, and 40D spandex.

2) Warping: Weave two pieces of cloth with a width of 150 cm, with a horizontal density of 16.0 wpc. The warp drawing of GB1, GB2, GB3, and GB4 is full, and the number of warp ends is calculated: GB1, GB2, GB3, and GB4 are all 8×600

3) Weaving: Weaving is done using a single needle bed high-speed tricot warp knitting machine

Model: HKS4-1(P)

Machine number: E28

Machine width: 170 inches

Warp knitting structure and threading method:

GB1:1-0/2-3//, full penetration;

GB2:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

GB3:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

GB4:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

POL: 0-0/1-1//.

Raw material: GB1: 100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn

GB2: 60s cotton

GB3: 75D/96F matte two-component PBT

GB4: 40D spandex

Input the tissue yarn digital number, warp let-off amount and drawing density into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save it and load the machine file to start the machine.

4) Finishing: ① shearing, ② combing, ③ washing, ④ shaping, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ shaping;

5) Testing and packaging.

The specific parameters of the process of this embodiment are shown in Table 1.

Table 1

Comparative Example 1:

A warp-knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric is composed of the following mass percentages: 44.07% of 68Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn, 20.15% of 40s cotton, 29.48% of 100D/96F matte two-component PBT, and 6.3% of 40D spandex.

The preparation process of the fabric is as follows: the specific process of each process is as follows: including the selection of each combing bar structure, preparation process, warping, weaving, and finishing.

1) Material selection: 68Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn, 40s cotton, 100D/96F matte two-component PBT, 40D spandex

2) Warping: Weave two pieces of cloth with a width of 150 cm, with a horizontal density of 15.0 wpc. The warp drawing of GB1, GB2, and GB3 is 1 through and 1 empty, and GB4 is full through. The number of warp ends is calculated as follows: GB1, GB2, and GB3 are all 8×282, and GB4 is 8×564

3) Weaving: Single needle bed double-sided terry machine is used for weaving

Model: KS4FBZ

Machine number: E28

Machine width: 170 inches

Warp knitting structure and threading method:

GB1:3-4/1-0//, 1 empty and 1 penetration;

GB2: 0-1/1-0//, 1 empty and 1 through;

GB3:5-5/0-0//, 1 through 1 empty;

GB4:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

Raw material: GB1: 68Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn

GB2: 40s cotton

GB3: 100D/96F matte two-component PBT

GB4: 40D spandex

Input the tissue yarn digital number, warp let-off amount and drawing density into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save it and load the machine file to start the machine.

4) Finishing: ① shearing, ② combing, ③ washing, ④ shaping, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ shaping;

5) Testing and packaging.

The specific parameters of this comparative example process are shown in Table 2.

Table 2

Comparative Example 2:

A warp-knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric is composed of the following mass percentages: 62.23% of 100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn, 31.45% of 75D/96F matte two-component PBT, and 6.32% of 40D spandex.

The preparation process of the fabric is as follows: the specific process of each process is as follows: including the selection of each combing bar structure, preparation process, warping, weaving, and finishing.

1) Material selection: 100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn, 75D/96F matte two-component PBT, and 40D spandex.

2) Warping: Weave two pieces of cloth with a width of 150 cm, with a horizontal density of 16.0 wpc. The warp drawing of GB1, GB2, and GB3 is full, and the number of warp ends is calculated: GB1, GB2, and GB3 are all 8×600

3) Weaving: Weaving is done using a single needle bed high-speed tricot warp knitting machine

Model: HKS4-1(P)

Machine number: E28

Machine width: 170 inches

Warp knitting structure and threading method:

GB1:1-0/2-3//, full penetration;

GB2:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

GB3:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

POL: 0-0/1-1//.

Raw material: GB1: 100Nm matte polyester/wool blended yarn

GB2: 75D/96F matte two-component PBT

GB3: 40D spandex

Input the tissue yarn digital number, warp let-off amount and drawing density into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save it and load the machine file to start the machine.

4) Finishing: ① shearing, ② combing, ③ washing, ④ shaping, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ shaping;

5) Testing and packaging.

The specific parameters of this comparative example process are shown in Table 3.

table 3

Embodiment 2:

The raw materials of GB2 and GB3 in Example 1 were exchanged, and other conditions remained unchanged.

Referring to FZ/T 01149-2019 "Test for Windproof and Moisture Permeability of Textiles", the windproof and moisture permeability of Examples 1-2, Comparative Examples 1-3, and other commercially available single-sided sports fleece fabrics were measured respectively, and the test results are shown in Table 5.

Table 4 Evaluation of windproof and moisture permeability performance

Table 5 Test results of windproof and moisture permeability

According to the test results, by comparing Example 1 with Comparative Example 1, it can be found that from the overall rating results, both Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are rated as Level II, and Comparative Example 1 has a better windproof effect. It is analyzed that the raw material configuration of the base fabric is consistent between the two, and both use two-component elastic polyester and spandex, so that the base fabric can shrink well and form a dense base fabric to meet the windproof requirements. Example 1 uses HKS4-1 (P) type machine to produce the base fabric using a warp flat structure, while Comparative Example 1 uses KS4FBZ type machine to produce the base fabric using a braided chain + weft insertion structure (the base fabric structure of this machine type is relatively fixed). Compared with the warp flat structure, the braided chain + weft insertion structure makes the fabric lose the structural elasticity unique to knitted fabrics, so the compactness of Comparative Example 1 is lower than that of Example 1, and the windproof effect is not as good as that of Example 1; Comparing Example 1 with Comparative Example 2, Comparative Example 2 lacks a cotton yarn comb compared to Example 1, and Comparative Example 2 is not as thick as Example 1. The windproof effect of Comparative Example 2 is not as good as that of Example 1, but the moisture permeability effect is stronger than that of Example 1.

Comparing Example 1 with Example 2, the overall rating result did not change by exchanging the raw materials of the combs, but the moisture permeability of the comparative example decreased significantly compared with the example; comparing Examples 1 and 2 with commercially available sports windproof plush fabrics, the rating results of the two were the same, and there was little difference in the windproof effect, but the moisture permeability of Examples 1 and 2 was significantly better than that of the commercially available fabrics. It can be considered that Examples 1 and 2 can meet the requirements of sports windproof plush fabrics and have better wearing comfort.

Although the present invention has been disclosed as above in the preferred embodiment, it is not intended to limit the present invention. Anyone familiar with this technology can make various changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of protection of the present invention should be based on the definition of the claims.

Claims (10)

1. The method for preparing the warp knitting composite single-sided velvet fabric is characterized in that the warp knitting composite single-sided velvet fabric is formed by weaving on a warp knitting machine containing terry sinkers, and the mode of selecting and threading each guide bar stitch structure during weaving is as follows:

GB1 is 1-0/2-3//, and the wearer is full;

GB2 is 1-0/1-2//, and is full of wearing;

GB3 is 1-0/1-2//, and is full of wearing;

GB4:1-0/1-2//, full penetration;

the pile sinker POL is 0-0/1-1//.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the warp knitting machine is a tricot machine.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the facing stock is selected from one or more of polyester, wool, elastic polyester, cotton, spandex.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the yarn and bar are paired as: GB2 is cotton and GB3 is elastic polyester.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the yarn and bar are collocated as: GB1 adopts terylene/wool blended yarn to weave terry velvet; the GB2 is cotton, the GB3 is elastic polyester, and the GB4 is polyurethane woven base fabric.

6. The method according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the yarn and bar are collocated as: GB1 adopts 68 Nm-100 Nm extinction terylene/wool blended yarn to weave terry pile; the GB2 adopts 40s to 60s cotton, the GB3 adopts 50D to 100D extinction double-component elastic polyester, and the GB4 adopts 30D to 70D spandex to weave the base fabric of the fabric.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that the method comprises the steps of:

1) Selecting materials: selecting terylene/wool blended yarn, elastic polyester, cotton and spandex as raw materials;

2) Warping: warping the selected raw materials according to the requirements of width and transverse density and yarn threading rate;

3) Weaving: weaving by a high-speed tricot machine;

4) And (3) post-finishing: ① Shearing, ② carding, ③ washing, ④ shaping, ⑤ dyeing and ⑥ shaping;

5) And (5) detecting and packaging.

8. A warp knit, composite free single-sided fleece fabric prepared according to the method of any one of claims 1-7.

9. The warp knitting non-composite single-sided velvet fabric of claim 8, wherein the grammage of the fabric is 220-420 g/m ².

10. A garment comprising the warp knit, free composite single pile fabric of claim 8 or 9.