CN114411313A - 一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN114411313A
CN114411313A CN202111471212.4A CN202111471212A CN114411313A CN 114411313 A CN114411313 A CN 114411313A CN 202111471212 A CN202111471212 A CN 202111471212A CN 114411313 A CN114411313 A CN 114411313A
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潘玉明
潘豪炜
董勤霞
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Shanghai Tiqiao Jiangsu Textile Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料及其制备方法，该方法包括如下步骤：步骤一，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料，织造成单面毛圈织物结构的坯布；步骤二，将坯布进行预定型，同时在毛圈面布上起毛油，然后在拉毛机上进行四次拉毛处理；拉毛后的面料上定型机进行再次复定型处理；步骤三，将复定型的面料进行煮漂前处理，水洗；步骤四，染色；后处理后得到异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料。本发明采用阳离子涤纶复合丝，在经受高温的时候，两种不同缩率的丝会因缩率的不同，致使纱体的表面有类似“圈圈”的收缩效果，从而解决织物的蓬松性，有利于后续拉毛仿羊羔绒的粒子风格；同时由于原料上色率不同得到异色效果。

Description

一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及仿羊羔绒面料制备技术领域，尤其涉及一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料及其制备方法。
背景技术
仿羊羔绒面料是一种人造绒面料，通常其化学原料成份是70％涤沦，30％的腈沦。仿羊羔绒没有真羊羔毛贵，却也有很好的保暖效果，不亚于真羊羔毛，所以被广泛用到服装行业。
市场上流行的仿羊羔绒面料以涤纶、腈纶丝为绒纱在纬编毛皮机上织造，并经过热定型、涤纶染色或印花、染印后处理及梳毛、摇粒，热定型等工艺制成。这些面料多年来在手感、风格上无多大变化，手感较差，柔软性差，色牢度低。
发明内容
本发明的目的是针对现有技术中的不足，提供一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料及其制备方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明采取的技术方案是：
本发明第一方面是提供一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
步骤一，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料，采用纬编毛巾织物组织结构，织造成单面毛圈织物的坯布；
步骤二，坯布在定型机上进行预定型，同时在毛圈布面上起毛油，然后在拉毛机上进行四次拉毛处理，且布速为8m/min；拉毛后的面料定型机上再次进行复定型处理，复定型的温度为120-150℃，让面料充分回缩；
步骤三，将复定型的面料进行煮漂前处理，水洗，酸中和至pH＝7；
步骤四，染色缸中加水，升温至35-40℃时加入染料和0.8-1.0g/L的碱性匀染剂，然后以2-3℃/min升温至75-85℃，保温10min，再以1-2℃/min升温至90-100℃，保温5-10min，然后以0.5℃/min升温至105-125℃，保温处理30-50min，降温至60-75℃，排液，还原清洗，水洗，脱水；柔软烘干处理后得到异色仿羊羔绒面料。
进一步地，所述步骤二中预定型的温度为165-170℃，布速为20m/min。
进一步地，所述步骤二中起毛油为膨松剂、柔软剂、硅油的混合物。
进一步地，所述步骤三中煮漂前处理所用助剂的组成为：碳酸氢钠1.5g/L，去油灵TF101D 1g/L。
进一步地，所述步骤三中煮漂前处理的浴比为1:8-10，温度为80-100℃，时间为20-45min。
进一步地，所述步骤四中染色的浴比为1:5-6，染色过程中染液的pH大于9.5。
进一步地，所述碱性匀染剂由以下重量份的原料组成：异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚3份、酒石酸1.6份、烷基二苯醚二磺酸钠3.6份、乙撑双油酸酰胺2.5份、甘油醚油酸酯1份、对辛基苯酚0.8份。
本发明第二方面是提供一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料，所述异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料为单面毛圈织物结构，所述异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料；其中，所述阳离子涤纶复合丝由阳离子涤纶丝束和发热涤纶丝束一对一的复合而成。
本发明采用以上技术方案，与现有技术相比，具有如下技术效果：
本发明采用阳离子涤纶复合丝，阳离子涤纶复合丝在经受高温的时候，两种不同缩率的丝会因缩率的不同，致使纱体的表面有类似“圈圈”的收缩效果，从而解决织物的蓬松性，还能够高效地解决难拉毛的关键技术问题，有利于后续拉毛仿羊羔绒的粒子风格；并通过优化染整工艺，阳离子涤纶和发热涤纶显色效果不同制备得到的异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料超柔软、保暖、色牢度高。
具体实施方式
下面具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明，但不作为本发明的限定。需要说明的是，在不冲突的情况下，本发明中的实施例及实施例中的特征可以相互组合。
实施例1
本实施例提供一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料的制备方法，上述仿羊羔绒面料为单面毛圈织物结构，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料；其中，上述阳离子涤纶复合丝由阳离子涤纶丝束和发热涤纶丝束一对一的复合而成，具体包括如下步骤：
步骤一，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料，采用纬编毛巾织物组织结构，织造成单面毛圈织物结构的坯布；
步骤二，坯布在定型机上进行预定型，预定型的温度为165℃，布速为20m/min，同时在毛圈布面上起毛油，然后在拉毛机上进行四次拉毛处理，且布速为8m/min；拉毛后的面料在定型机进行再次复定型处理，复定型的温度为120℃，让面料充分回缩；
步骤三，将复定型的面料进行煮漂前处理，浴比为1:8，温度为80℃，时间为20min，水洗，加酸中和至pH＝7；
步骤四，染色缸中加水，升温至35℃时加入染料和0.8g/L的碱性匀染剂，然后以2-3℃/min升温至75℃，保温10min，再以1-2℃/min升温至90℃，保温5-10min，然后以0.5℃/min升温至105℃，保温处理30-50min，降温至60-75℃，排液，还原清洗，水洗，脱水；柔软烘干处理后得到异色仿羊羔绒面料。
其中，染色的浴比为1:6，染色过程中染液的pH大于9.5。
作为一个优选例，步骤二中起毛油为膨松剂、柔软剂、硅油的混合物。
作为一个优选例，步骤三中染色前处理所用助剂的组成为：碳酸氢钠1.5g/L，去油灵TF101D 1g/L。
作为一个优选例，上述碱性匀染剂由以下重量份的原料组成：异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚3份、酒石酸1.6份、烷基二苯醚二磺酸钠3.6份、乙撑双油酸酰胺2.5份、甘油醚油酸酯1份、对辛基苯酚0.8份。
实施例2
本实施例提供一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料的制备方法，上述仿羊羔绒面料为单面毛圈织物结构，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料；其中，上述阳离子涤纶复合丝由阳离子涤纶丝束和发热涤纶丝束一对一的复合而成，具体包括如下步骤：
步骤一，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料，采用纬编毛巾织物组织结构，织造成单面毛圈织物结构的坯布；
步骤二，坯布在定型机上进行预定型，预定型的温度为170℃，布速为20m/min，同时在毛圈布面上起毛油，然后在拉毛机上进行四次拉毛处理，且布速为8m/min；拉毛后的面料，在定型机进行再次复定型处理，复定型的温度为135℃，让面料充分回缩；
步骤三，将复定型的面料进行煮漂前处理，浴比为1:10，温度为90℃，时间为30min，水洗，加酸中和至pH＝7；
步骤四，染色缸中加水，升温至40℃时加入染料和1.0g/L的碱性匀染剂，然后以2-3℃/min升温至80℃，保温10min，再以1-2℃/min升温至95℃，保温5-10min，然后以0.5℃/min升温至115℃，保温处理30-50min，降温至60-75℃，排液，还原清洗，水洗，脱水；柔软烘干处理后得到异色仿羊羔绒面料。将复定型的面料进行煮漂前处理，水洗，酸中和至pH＝7；
其中，染色的浴比为1:5，染色过程中染液的pH大于9.5。
作为一个优选例，步骤二中起毛油为膨松剂、柔软剂、硅油的混合物。
作为一个优选例，步骤三中染色前处理所用助剂的组成为：碳酸氢钠1.5g/L，去油灵TF101D 1g/L。
作为一个优选例，上述碱性匀染剂由以下重量份的原料组成：异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚3份、酒石酸1.6份、烷基二苯醚二磺酸钠3.6份、乙撑双油酸酰胺2.5份、甘油醚油酸酯1份、对辛基苯酚0.8份。
实施例3
本实施例提供一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料的制备方法，上述仿羊羔绒面料为单面毛圈织物结构，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料；其中，上述阳离子涤纶复合丝由阳离子涤纶丝束和发热涤纶丝束一对一的复合而成，具体包括如下步骤：
步骤一，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料，采用纬编毛巾织物组织结构，织造成单面毛圈织物结构的坯布；
步骤二，坯布在定型机上进行预定型，预定型的温度为170℃，布速为20m/min，同时在毛圈布面上起毛油，然后在拉毛机上进行四次拉毛处理，且布速为8m/min；拉毛后的面料，在定型机进行再次复定型处理，复定型的温度为150℃，让面料充分回缩；
步骤三，将复定型的面料进行煮漂前处理，浴比为1:10，温度为100℃，时间为45min，水洗，加酸中和至pH＝7；
步骤四，染色缸中加水，升温至35-40℃时加入染料和0.8-1.0g/L的碱性匀染剂，然后以2-3℃/min升温至85℃，保温10min，再以1-2℃/min升温至100℃，保温5-10min，然后以0.5℃/min升温至125℃，保温处理30-50min，降温至60-75℃，排液，还原清洗，水洗，脱水；柔软烘干处理后，得到异色仿羊羔绒面料。
其中，染色的浴比为1:5.5，染色过程中染液的pH大于9.5。
作为一个优选例，步骤二中起毛油为膨松剂、柔软剂、硅油的混合物。
作为一个优选例，步骤三中染色前处理所用助剂的组成为：碳酸氢钠1.5g/L，去油灵TF101D 1g/L。
作为一个优选例，上述碱性匀染剂由以下重量份的原料组成：异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚3份、酒石酸1.6份、烷基二苯醚二磺酸钠3.6份、乙撑双油酸酰胺2.5份、甘油醚油酸酯1份、对辛基苯酚0.8份。
上所述仅为本发明较佳的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的实施方式及保护范围，对于本领域技术人员而言，应当能够意识到凡运用本发明说明书内容所作出的等同替换和显而易见的变化所得到的方案，均应当包含在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (8)

1.一种异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
步骤一，采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料，采用纬编毛巾织物组织结构，织造成单面毛圈织物结构的坯布；
步骤二，坯布在定型机上进行预定型，同时在毛圈布面上起毛油，然后在拉毛机上进行四次拉毛处理，且布速为8m/min；拉毛后的面料上定型机进行再次复定型处理，复定型的温度为120-150℃，让面料充分回缩；
步骤三，将复定型的面料进行煮漂前处理，水洗，加酸中和至pH＝7；
步骤四，染色缸中加水，升温至35-40℃时加入染料和0.8-1.0g/L的碱性匀染剂，然后以2-3℃/min升温至75-85℃，保温10min，再以1-2℃/min升温至90-100℃，保温5-10min，然后以0.5℃/min升温至105-125℃，保温处理30-50min，降温至60-75℃，排液，还原清洗，水洗，脱水；柔软烘干处理后得到异色仿羊羔绒面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于，所述步骤二中预定型的温度为165-170℃，布速为20m/min。
3.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于，所述步骤二中起毛油为膨松剂、柔软剂、硅油的混合物。
4.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于，所述步骤三中煮漂前处理所用助剂的组成为：碳酸氢钠1.5g/L，去油灵TF101D 1g/L。
5.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于，所述步骤三中煮漂前处理的浴比为1:8-10，温度为80-100℃，时间为20-45min。
6.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于，所述步骤四中染色的浴比为1:5-6，染色过程中染液的pH大于9.5。
7.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于，所述碱性匀染剂由以下重量份的原料组成：异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚3份、酒石酸1.6份、烷基二苯醚二磺酸钠3.6份、乙撑双油酸酰胺2.5份、甘油醚油酸酯1份、对辛基苯酚0.8份。
8.一种采用如权利要求1-7任一项所述制备方法制备的异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料，其特征在于，所述异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料为单面毛圈织物结构，所述异色保暖仿羊羔绒面料采用阳离子涤纶复合丝为毛圈的原料、采用发热涤纶长丝为底组织原料；其中，所述阳离子涤纶复合丝由阳离子涤纶丝束和发热常规涤纶丝束一对一的复合而成。
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