CN113718410B - Double-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Double-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 153
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 79
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 7
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title abstract description 11
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 61
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 83
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CC([O-])=O VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001632 sodium acetate Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000017281 sodium acetate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007788 roughening Methods 0.000 claims 5
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims 1
- JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium dithionite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 abstract description 29
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 abstract description 13
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 abstract description 8
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
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- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 18
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 5
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 4
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 4
- 210000004177 elastic tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 3
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 2
- GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L dithionite(2-) Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 2
- -1 polypropylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 101001121408 Homo sapiens L-amino-acid oxidase Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 101000827703 Homo sapiens Polyphosphoinositide phosphatase Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102100026388 L-amino-acid oxidase Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 102100023591 Polyphosphoinositide phosphatase Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 101100012902 Saccharomyces cerevisiae (strain ATCC 204508 / S288c) FIG2 gene Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 101100233916 Saccharomyces cerevisiae (strain ATCC 204508 / S288c) KAR5 gene Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000003373 anti-fouling effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001153 anti-wrinkle effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001169 thermoplastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004416 thermosoftening plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
本发明提供了一种双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料及其制备方法,所述面料织物组织为变化罗马布组织,所述面料由双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝交织形成,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝是由PTT/PET复合丝与全消光普通涤纶POY加工形成的拉伸变形丝。本申请采用双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与常规涤纶交织,使得面料表面呈现粗犷与细腻相结合的独特条纹肌理,同时原料带来的特性使得面料具有优异的尺寸稳定性、抗污性、抗皱性、耐磨性和易染色性,含有双组份仿棉弹性复合丝的面料再加上在生产工艺中增加的平幅水洗工序和磨毛工序,使得该面料更为接近棉料蓬松柔软的触感,在外观上也同样更接近棉料。
The present invention provides a two-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof. The fabric structure is a modified Roman cloth structure. The fabric is formed by interweaving two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn and polyester filament. The two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn is a stretched and deformed yarn formed by processing PTT/PET composite yarn and full-dull ordinary polyester POY. The present application uses two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn and conventional polyester to interweave, so that the surface of the fabric presents a unique striped texture that combines roughness and delicacy. At the same time, the characteristics brought by the raw materials make the fabric have excellent dimensional stability, stain resistance, wrinkle resistance, wear resistance and easy dyeing. The fabric containing the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn, coupled with the flat-width washing process and sanding process added in the production process, makes the fabric closer to the fluffy and soft touch of cotton material, and is also closer to cotton material in appearance.
Description
技术领域Technical Field
本发明涉及纺织技术领域,具体涉及一种双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料及其制备方法。The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, and in particular to a two-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof.
背景技术Background Art
随着科学技术的不断发展,满足人们不同需要的纺织品面料层出不穷,以满足消费者的需求,在人们的日常生活中起着越来越重要的作用,在生产力迅猛的当下,化纤成分的面料已经逐渐成为人们穿着的服装主流面料纤维。化纤成分的种类也越来越多,因此,形成的面料具有的功能性也数不胜数。With the continuous development of science and technology, textile fabrics that meet people's different needs emerge in an endless stream to meet the needs of consumers and play an increasingly important role in people's daily lives. In the current era of rapid productivity, chemical fiber fabrics have gradually become the mainstream fabric fibers for clothing people wear. There are more and more types of chemical fiber components, so the functions of the fabrics formed are also innumerable.
但是,市场上现有的各种面料要么主要注重于其功能性,时尚性不足;要么主要注重于其时尚性,存在着各种功能性的缺陷,比如手感不够柔软、亲肤性不好、不具有保健功能等,例如:传统合成纤维面料吸湿性差,舒适性差,透气性差,而纤维素类面料易皱易变形,缩水差,强力差,洗后易泛白等缺点;常规面料没有弹性,拉伸回复差;含裸氨的面料对于织造染整工艺要求较高,面料偏厚偏重,透气性不够,且使用过程中极易出现断氨纶现象,导致面料实用性差,且影响外观,另外,氨纶包芯纱弹力织物具有很多优点,但是也存在不足,如织物和印染加工中不易处理,易造成织物卷边,褶皱,很难做到既有良好的弹性又有较好的尺寸稳定性等,而常规仿棉纤维面料普遍存在弹性差,拉伸回复性能不够优越,导致穿着舒适度下降;市场上普遍存在常规面料的外观风格定型,让消费者觉得沉闷。However, various fabrics available on the market either focus on their functionality and lack fashionability; or focus on their fashionability and have various functional defects, such as not being soft enough, poor skin-friendliness, and not having health care functions. For example, traditional synthetic fiber fabrics have poor moisture absorption, poor comfort, and poor air permeability, while cellulose fabrics are prone to wrinkling and deformation, poor shrinkage, poor strength, and easy whitening after washing; conventional fabrics have no elasticity and poor stretch recovery; fabrics containing bare ammonia have high requirements for weaving and dyeing processes, the fabrics are thick and heavy, and the air permeability is insufficient, and the spandex is very likely to break during use, resulting in poor practicality of the fabrics and affecting the appearance. In addition, spandex core-spun yarn stretch fabrics have many advantages, but also have disadvantages, such as being difficult to handle during fabric and printing and dyeing processing, easily causing fabric curling and wrinkles, and it is difficult to achieve both good elasticity and good dimensional stability, while conventional cotton-like fiber fabrics generally have poor elasticity and insufficient stretch recovery performance, resulting in reduced wearing comfort; the appearance style of conventional fabrics is generally stereotyped in the market, which makes consumers feel dull.
为解决上述技术问题,特提出本申请。In order to solve the above technical problems, this application is specially proposed.
发明内容Summary of the invention
本发明解决的技术问题是,现有技术中,仿棉纤维面料普遍存在弹性差,拉伸回复性能不够优越,导致穿着舒适度下降,且面料外观风格定型,容易让消费者感觉沉闷。The technical problem solved by the present invention is that in the prior art, imitation cotton fiber fabrics generally have poor elasticity and insufficient stretch recovery performance, which leads to reduced wearing comfort and a stereotyped appearance of the fabric, which easily makes consumers feel dull.
本发明设计出一种双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料及其制备方法,以提供一种够同时具备棉和涤纶优点,避免其缺点的面料。The invention designs a two-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof, so as to provide a fabric which can have the advantages of cotton and polyester and avoid their disadvantages.
为解决上述问题,本发明公开了一种双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料,所述面料织物组织为变化罗马布组织,所述面料由双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝交织形成,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝是由PTT/PET复合丝与全消光普通涤纶POY加工形成的拉伸变形丝。In order to solve the above problems, the present invention discloses a two-component polyester imitation cotton elastic knitted fabric, wherein the fabric structure is a modified Roman cloth structure, and the fabric is formed by interweaving two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn and polyester filament, and the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn is a stretched deformed yarn formed by processing PTT/PET composite yarn and full-dull ordinary polyester POY.
由PTT纤维与PET纤维并列复合纺丝形成的复合丝具有永久的主体螺旋结构,使其不仅具有了弹簧一样优良的变形能力和回弹能力,也具有了优异的尺寸稳定性、抗污性、抗皱性、耐磨性和易染色性,克服了现有技术中常用的氨纶包芯纱摩擦系数大,制造过程中容易产生意外伸长和张力不均,以及制造过程中容易产生静电、吸湿性和可染性差的问题,但是,PTT/PET复合丝存在涤感太强的缺点,将其与不同沸缩的全消光普通涤纶经过POY加工制成拉伸变形丝,可以使得纱线各纤维分离成蓬松状,从而使得该面料具备棉的外观和手感,其成本也远低于棉料。The composite yarn formed by the parallel composite spinning of PTT fiber and PET fiber has a permanent main spiral structure, which not only has excellent deformation and rebound capabilities like a spring, but also has excellent dimensional stability, stain resistance, wrinkle resistance, wear resistance and easy dyeing, overcoming the problems of large friction coefficient of spandex core-spun yarn commonly used in the prior art, easy to produce unexpected elongation and uneven tension during the manufacturing process, and easy to generate static electricity, hygroscopicity and poor dyeability during the manufacturing process. However, PTT/PET composite yarn has the disadvantage of too strong polyester feel. It is processed with full-dull ordinary polyester with different boiling shrinkage through POY to make stretched and deformed yarn, which can separate the fibers of the yarn into a fluffy state, so that the fabric has the appearance and feel of cotton, and its cost is much lower than cotton material.
进一步的,所述仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝粗细比例范围为2:3~5:6。Furthermore, the thickness ratio of the cotton-like elastic composite yarn to the polyester filament is in the range of 2:3 to 5:6.
该设置可以使得所述仿棉弹性复合丝占据较大比例,从而使得生产完成的面料具有更为接近棉料的外观和手感,避免涤纶长丝含量过高导致涤感明显。This arrangement allows the cotton-like elastic composite yarn to occupy a larger proportion, so that the finished fabric has an appearance and feel closer to cotton, and avoids excessive polyester filament content resulting in a noticeable polyester feel.
进一步的,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝的纱支粗细范围为50D~180D,所述涤纶长丝的纱支粗细范围为100D~300D。Furthermore, the yarn count of the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn ranges from 50D to 180D, and the yarn count of the polyester filament ranges from 100D to 300D.
该设置使得所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与所述涤纶长丝的粗细具有一定的差异,通过针织形成的面料表面条纹之间具有一定凹凸结构,使得面料触感更佳。This arrangement makes the thickness of the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn and the polyester filament have a certain difference, and the stripes on the surface of the fabric formed by knitting have a certain concave-convex structure, so that the fabric feels better.
进一步的,所述面料采用8路一个循环进行编织,其中1、2、3、4、5、6路接双组份仿棉弹性复合丝,7、8路接涤纶长丝。Furthermore, the fabric is woven in an 8-way cycle, wherein the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th ways are connected with two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarns, and the 7th and 8th ways are connected with polyester filaments.
该设置可以在所述面料上形成较宽的粗犷条纹和较窄的细腻条纹,其中,所述粗犷条纹为双组份仿棉弹性复合丝在面料表面形成的花纹,所述细腻条纹为涤纶长丝在面料表面形成的花纹,从而使生产出的面料形成了独特的条纹肌理,提升了产品的时尚性,更易吸引消费者的关注。This setting can form wider rough stripes and narrower delicate stripes on the fabric, wherein the rough stripes are patterns formed on the surface of the fabric by two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarns, and the delicate stripes are patterns formed on the surface of the fabric by polyester filaments, thereby making the produced fabric form a unique striped texture, improving the fashionability of the product and more easily attracting the attention of consumers.
进一步的,所述面料编织时的织针排列方式为上针盘AB顺序排列,下针盘BA顺序排列,其中A代表高踵针,B代表低踵针,第1、2路编织双罗纹组织,即第1路上针盘、下针筒高踵针全部参与编织,低踵针全部不参与工作;第2路上针盘、下针筒低踵针全部参与编织,高踵针全部不参与工作;第3路上针盘织针不参与工作,下针筒织针全部参与编织;第4路下针筒织针不参与工作,上针盘织针全部参与编织;第5、6路编织双罗纹组织,即第5路上针盘、下针筒高踵针全部参与编织,低踵针全部不参与工作;第6路上针盘、下针筒低踵针全部参与编织,低高针全部不参与工作;第7路上针盘织针不参与工作,下针筒织针全部参与编织;第8路下针筒织针不参与工作,上针盘织针全部参与编织。Furthermore, the knitting needles are arranged in the order of AB on the upper needle disc and BA on the lower needle disc, wherein A represents high heel needles and B represents low heel needles. The 1st and 2nd routes are knitted with double rib structure, that is, the high heel needles of the needle disc and the lower needle cylinder on the 1st route are all involved in knitting, and the low heel needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc and the low heel needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 2nd route are all involved in knitting, and the high heel needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc knitting needles on the 3rd route are not involved in the work, and the knitting needles of the lower needle cylinder are all involved in the knitting; the knitting needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 4th route are not involved in the work, and the knitting needles of the upper needle disc are all involved in the knitting; the 5th and 6th routes are knitted with double rib structure, that is, the high heel needles of the needle disc and the lower needle cylinder on the 5th route are all involved in knitting, and the low heel needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc and the low heel needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 6th route are all involved in knitting, and the low-high needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc knitting needles on the 7th route are not involved in the work, and the knitting needles of the lower needle cylinder are all involved in the knitting; the knitting needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 8th route are not involved in the work, and the knitting needles of the upper needle disc are all involved in the knitting.
该设置使得上下针筒之间形成对拉结构,有利于编织成型的面料各部分之间的均匀受力,有助于保持面料的平整,避免出现卷边等情况,且使得所述面料两面的花纹相同,且由于7、8路的纱线与其他路不同,使得面料表面纹路清晰自然。This arrangement forms a pulling structure between the upper and lower needle cylinders, which is beneficial to uniform force between the various parts of the woven fabric, helps to keep the fabric flat, avoids curling and the like, and makes the patterns on both sides of the fabric the same. Since the yarns of routes 7 and 8 are different from those of other routes, the texture on the surface of the fabric is clear and natural.
本发明还公开了一种面料的制备方法,所述方法用于制备上述的双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料,所述方法包括:The present invention also discloses a method for preparing a fabric, which is used to prepare the above-mentioned two-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric, and the method comprises:
S1,纱支准备;S1, yarn count preparation;
S2,面料织造;S2, fabric weaving;
S3,染整工艺。S3, dyeing and finishing process.
进一步的,所述步骤S3包括:Furthermore, the step S3 includes:
S31,平幅水洗;S31, open width washing;
S32,毛坯预定型;S32, blank pre-forming;
S33,染色;S33, staining;
S34,磨毛;S34, sanded;
S35,复定型。S35, complex shaping.
进一步的,所述步骤S31包括:将所述面料以开幅平整的状态进入平幅机进行水洗,水洗温度60℃~80℃、车速15-25m/min。Furthermore, the step S31 includes: placing the fabric in an open-width and flat state into an open-width machine for washing, with the washing temperature being 60° C. to 80° C. and the machine speed being 15-25 m/min.
在预定型前增加设置平幅水洗的步骤,使的织物受热后充分回缩,这样不易产生折印和皱印,从而获得更好的面料外观和手感。Adding the step of flat-width washing before pre-setting allows the fabric to fully shrink after being heated, making it less likely to produce creases and wrinkles, thereby obtaining a better fabric appearance and feel.
进一步的,所述步骤S33,染色包括:将毛坯预定型后的坯布浸入到染缸,浴比1:10,采用分散染料,分段控温染色,染色后进行还原清洗;其中,所述分散染料包括:染料2-3%、匀染剂2-3g/L、螯合分散剂1.5-3g/L、醋酸钠3-5g/L和HAc(pH 4.5-5);所述分段控温工艺为:从常温按1.5℃/min升温至85℃,保温5min,再按1.5℃/min继续升温至120℃,保温40-50分钟,按2℃/min降温至70℃;所述还原清洗的清洗液包括:2.5g/L的Na2CO3和2.5g/L的保险粉。Further, the step S33, dyeing comprises: immersing the pre-shaped grey cloth into a dyeing vat, with a bath ratio of 1:10, using disperse dyes, dyeing with segmented temperature control, and performing reduction cleaning after dyeing; wherein the disperse dyes comprise: 2-3% dye, 2-3g/L leveling agent, 1.5-3g/L chelating dispersant, 3-5g/L sodium acetate and HAc (pH 4.5-5); the segmented temperature control process comprises: heating from room temperature to 85°C at 1.5°C/min, keeping the temperature for 5min, then continuing to heat to 120°C at 1.5°C/min, keeping the temperature for 40-50 minutes, and cooling to 70°C at 2°C/min; the cleaning solution for the reduction cleaning comprises: 2.5g/L Na2CO3 and 2.5g/L hydrosulfite .
进一步的,所述步骤S34包括:将所述步骤S33中染色后的面料在碳素磨毛机上进行磨毛处理,其中,磨毛车速为16~20m/min,磨毛遍数为2遍。Furthermore, the step S34 includes: sanding the fabric dyed in the step S33 on a carbon sanding machine, wherein the sanding speed is 16 to 20 m/min and the number of sanding passes is 2 times.
该设置可将面料表面的纤维磨削形成绒毛状,从而使面料的表面更为蓬松柔软,更加贴近棉料的手感,同时也更加亲肤。This setting can grind the fibers on the surface of the fabric into a fluffy state, making the surface of the fabric fluffier and softer, closer to the feel of cotton, and more skin-friendly.
本申请所述的双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料及其制备方法具有以下优点:The bicomponent polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric and the preparation method thereof described in the present application have the following advantages:
第一,本申请所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料采用双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与常规涤纶交织,使得面料具备接近棉的外观和手感;First, the bi-component polyester imitation cotton elastic knitted fabric described in the present application is interwoven with bi-component imitation cotton elastic composite yarn and conventional polyester, so that the fabric has an appearance and feel close to cotton;
第二,申请所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的双组份聚酯弹性纤维与常规涤纶交织的面料具有优异的尺寸稳定性、抗污性、抗皱性、耐磨性和易染色性;Second, the bi-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric of the application, which is a fabric interwoven with bi-component polyester elastic fiber and conventional polyester, has excellent dimensional stability, stain resistance, wrinkle resistance, abrasion resistance and easy dyeing;
第三,本申请所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的双组份聚酯弹性纤维与常规涤纶交织的面料上形成粗犷与细腻相结合的独特条纹肌理,更具时尚感,更易吸引用户;Third, the bi-component polyester elastic knitted fabric described in the present application is a fabric interwoven with conventional polyester to form a unique striped texture that combines roughness and fineness, which is more fashionable and easier to attract users;
第四,本申请在染整预定型前增加设置了平幅水洗工序,使得毛坯充分回缩,然后在预定型后增加设置了磨毛工艺,使得本申请提供的面料更接近棉料的蓬松柔软,也更为亲肤。Fourth, the present application adds a flat-width washing process before dyeing and pre-setting to allow the blank to shrink fully, and then adds a sanding process after pre-setting, so that the fabric provided by the present application is closer to the fluffy and softness of cotton and more skin-friendly.
附图说明BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
图1为本发明实施例所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的织针排列图;FIG1 is a diagram showing the arrangement of knitting needles of a two-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention;
图2为本发明实施例所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的三角排列图;FIG2 is a triangular arrangement diagram of the bicomponent polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention;
图3为本发明实施例所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的编织图;FIG3 is a knitting diagram of a bi-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention;
图4为本发明实施例所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的花型效果图;FIG4 is a pattern effect diagram of the bi-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention;
图5为本发明实施例所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的实物表面图。FIG. 5 is a physical surface diagram of the bi-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.
具体实施方式DETAILED DESCRIPTION
为使本发明目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚,下面将结合附图及实施例,对本发明进行进一步详细说明。应当理解,所描述的实施例是本发明一部分实施例,而不是全部的实施例。此处所描述的具体实施例仅仅用以解释本发明,并不用于限定本发明。In order to make the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the present invention clearer, the present invention will be further described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and embodiments. It should be understood that the described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all of the embodiments. The specific embodiments described herein are only used to explain the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.
下面结合附图具体描述本发明实施例的一种双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料及其制备方法。A two-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
实施例1Example 1
一种双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料,所述面料织物组织为变化罗马布组织,所述面料由双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝交织形成,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝是由PTT/PET复合丝与全消光普通涤纶POY加工形成的拉伸变形丝。其中,所述PTT纤维为聚对苯二甲酸丙二脂,PET纤维为聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯,所述PTT纤维是一种半结晶状热塑性聚酯,其特有的分子链结构所带来了高回弹性,且具有易染色、色牢度高、抗氯性好的优点,所述PET纤维尺寸形态稳定、挺括性好、不易缩水,由PTT纤维与PET纤维并列复合纺丝形成的复合丝具有永久的主体螺旋结构,使其不仅具有了弹簧一样优良的变形能力和回弹能力,也具有了优异的尺寸稳定性、抗污性、抗皱性、耐磨性和易染色性,克服了现有技术中常用的氨纶包芯纱摩擦系数大,制造过程中容易产生意外伸长和张力不均,以及制造过程中容易产生静电、吸湿性和可染性差的问题,但是,PTT/PET复合丝存在涤感太强的缺点,将其与不同沸缩的全消光普通涤纶经过POY加工制成拉伸变形丝,可以使得纱线各纤维分离成蓬松状,从而使得该面料具备棉的外观和手感,其成本也远低于棉料,变化罗马布组织使得所述面料的正面和反面花纹相同,通过仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝的交织,在所述面料的正面和反面均形成间隔状的不同条纹,更有利于吸引消费者注意,有助于其推广使用,需要说明的是,在本实施例中,所述变化罗马布组织为纬平针组织+双罗纹组织。A two-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric, the fabric structure is a modified Roman cloth structure, the fabric is formed by interweaving two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn and polyester filament, and the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn is a stretched deformation yarn formed by processing PTT/PET composite yarn and full-dull ordinary polyester POY. Among them, the PTT fiber is polypropylene terephthalate, and the PET fiber is polyethylene terephthalate. The PTT fiber is a semi-crystalline thermoplastic polyester, and its unique molecular chain structure brings high resilience, and has the advantages of easy dyeing, high color fastness, and good chlorine resistance. The PET fiber has stable size and shape, good stiffness, and is not easy to shrink. The composite yarn formed by the parallel composite spinning of PTT fiber and PET fiber has a permanent main spiral structure, so that it not only has the excellent deformation and rebound ability like a spring, but also has excellent dimensional stability, anti-fouling, anti-wrinkle, wear resistance and easy dyeing, overcoming the problems of the spandex core-spun yarn commonly used in the prior art, such as large friction coefficient, easy to produce accidental elongation and tension during the manufacturing process. The PTT/PET composite yarn has the disadvantage of being too polyester-feeling. By processing it with ordinary full-dull polyester of different boiling shrinkage through POY to make a stretched and deformed yarn, the fibers of the yarn can be separated into a fluffy state, so that the fabric has the appearance and feel of cotton, and its cost is much lower than that of cotton. The Roman cloth structure is changed to make the front and back patterns of the fabric the same. By interweaving the imitation cotton elastic composite yarn and the polyester filament, different stripes are formed on the front and back of the fabric, which is more conducive to attracting consumers' attention and helping to promote its use. It should be noted that in this embodiment, the Roman cloth structure is a plain weft needle structure + double rib structure.
作为本发明的一个实施例,所述仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝的接纱比为3:1,所述仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝粗细比例范围为2:3~5:6,该设置可以使得所述仿棉弹性复合丝占据较大比例,从而使得生产完成的面料具有更为接近棉料的外观和手感,避免涤纶长丝含量过高导致涤感明显,与此同时,该面料相较于棉料具备了更为优异的服用特性,如尺寸稳定性、抗污性、抗皱性、耐磨性和易染色性均较现有的棉料有大幅度提高,此外,所述仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝形成不同风格的条纹,显著提高了面料的时尚性,有利于吸引用户,需要说明的是,所述仿棉弹性复合丝与涤纶长丝的接纱比也可以为其他比例,可以获得不同风格的仿棉弹性面料,在此不再加以限定。As an embodiment of the present invention, the ratio of the cotton-like elastic composite yarn to the polyester filament is 3:1, and the ratio of the thickness of the cotton-like elastic composite yarn to the polyester filament is in the range of 2:3 to 5:6. This setting can make the cotton-like elastic composite yarn occupy a larger proportion, so that the finished fabric has an appearance and feel that is closer to cotton material, avoiding excessive polyester filament content resulting in an obvious polyester feel. At the same time, the fabric has better wearing properties than cotton material, such as dimensional stability, stain resistance, wrinkle resistance, wear resistance and easy dyeing, which are greatly improved compared with existing cotton material. In addition, the cotton-like elastic composite yarn and the polyester filament form stripes of different styles, which significantly improves the fashion of the fabric and is conducive to attracting users. It should be noted that the ratio of the cotton-like elastic composite yarn to the polyester filament can also be other ratios, so that cotton-like elastic fabrics of different styles can be obtained, which is no longer limited here.
作为本发明的实施例,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝的纱支粗细范围为50D~180D,所述涤纶长丝的纱支粗细范围为100D~300D,该设置使得所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与所述涤纶长丝的粗细具有一定的差异,通过针织形成的面料表面条纹之间具有一定凹凸结构,使得面料触感更佳。As an embodiment of the present invention, the yarn count of the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn ranges from 50D to 180D, and the yarn count of the polyester filament ranges from 100D to 300D. This setting makes the thickness of the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn and the polyester filament have a certain difference, and the stripes on the surface of the fabric formed by knitting have a certain concave-convex structure, which makes the fabric feel better.
在本实施例中,如图4所示,所述面料采用8路一个循环进行编织,其中1、2、3、4、5、6路接双组份仿棉弹性复合丝,7、8路接涤纶长丝,由于7、8路编织时采用的原料与其他路不同,导致面料表面形成显著的对比花纹,再加上所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝多路连续编织,从而在所述面料上形成较宽的粗犷条纹和较窄的细腻条纹,其中,所述粗犷条纹为双组份仿棉弹性复合丝在面料表面形成的花纹,所述细腻条纹为涤纶长丝在面料表面形成的花纹,从而使生产出的面料形成了独特的条纹肌理,提升了产品的时尚性,更易吸引消费者的关注。In this embodiment, as shown in Figure 4, the fabric is woven in an 8-way cycle, wherein 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 ways are connected with two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarns, and 7 and 8 ways are connected with polyester filaments. Since the raw materials used in weaving 7 and 8 are different from those in other ways, a significant contrast pattern is formed on the surface of the fabric. In addition, the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarns are woven continuously in multiple ways, thereby forming wider rough stripes and narrower delicate stripes on the fabric. The rough stripes are patterns formed on the surface of the fabric by the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarns, and the delicate stripes are patterns formed on the surface of the fabric by the polyester filaments. As a result, the produced fabric forms a unique striped texture, enhances the fashionability of the product, and is more likely to attract the attention of consumers.
在本实施例中,所述针织机为纬编大圆机,如图1~3所示,所述面料编织时的织针排列方式为上针盘AB顺序排列,下针盘BA顺序排列,其中A代表高踵针,B代表低踵针,针距在20G~40G。该设置使得上下针筒之间形成对拉结构,有利于编织成型的面料各部分之间的均匀受力,有助于保持面料的平整,避免出现卷边等情况。In this embodiment, the knitting machine is a weft knitting circular knitting machine, as shown in Figures 1 to 3, and the knitting needles are arranged in the order of upper needle disc AB and lower needle disc BA during fabric knitting, where A represents high heel needles and B represents low heel needles, and the needle pitch is 20G to 40G. This arrangement forms a pulling structure between the upper and lower needle cylinders, which is conducive to uniform force between the various parts of the knitted fabric, helps to keep the fabric flat, and avoids curling and the like.
按照织针的排列顺序,所述面料编织时织针工作情况如下:第1、2路编织双罗纹组织,即第1路上针盘、下针筒高踵针全部参与编织,低踵针全部不参与工作;第2路上针盘、下针筒低踵针全部参与编织,高踵针全部不参与工作;第3路上针盘织针不参与工作,下针筒织针全部参与编织;第4路下针筒织针不参与工作,上针盘织针全部参与编织;第5、6路编织双罗纹组织,即第5路上针盘、下针筒高踵针全部参与编织,低踵针全部不参与工作;第6路上针盘、下针筒低踵针全部参与编织,低高针全部不参与工作;第7路上针盘织针不参与工作,下针筒织针全部参与编织;第8路下针筒织针不参与工作,上针盘织针全部参与编织。该设置使得所述面料两面的花纹相同,且由于7、8路的纱线与其他路不同,使得面料表面形成间隔性的条纹结构,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝在面料表面形成粗犷条纹的花纹,所述涤纶长丝在面料表面形成细腻条纹为的花纹,从而使得面料表面形成为较宽的粗犷条纹和较窄的细腻条纹,使得面料表面纹路清晰自然。According to the arrangement order of the knitting needles, the working conditions of the knitting needles when knitting the fabric are as follows: the 1st and 2nd routes are knitted with double rib structure, that is, the high heel needles of the needle disc and the lower needle cylinder on the 1st route are all involved in the knitting, and the low heel needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc and the low heel needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 2nd route are all involved in the knitting, and the high heel needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc knitting needles on the 3rd route are not involved in the work, and the lower needle cylinder knitting needles are all involved in the knitting; the lower needle cylinder knitting needles on the 4th route are not involved in the work, and the upper needle disc knitting needles are all involved in the knitting; the 5th and 6th routes are knitted with double rib structure, that is, the high heel needles of the needle disc and the lower needle cylinder on the 5th route are all involved in the knitting, and the low heel needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc and the low heel needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 6th route are all involved in the knitting, and the low-high needles are all not involved in the work; the needle disc knitting needles on the 7th route are not involved in the work, and the lower needle cylinder knitting needles are all involved in the knitting; the lower needle cylinder knitting needles on the 8th route are not involved in the work, and the upper needle disc knitting needles are all involved in the knitting. This arrangement makes the patterns on both sides of the fabric the same, and because the yarns of routes 7 and 8 are different from those of the other routes, an intermittent striped structure is formed on the surface of the fabric. The two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn forms a rough striped pattern on the surface of the fabric, and the polyester filament forms a fine striped pattern on the surface of the fabric, thereby forming wider rough stripes and narrower fine stripes on the surface of the fabric, making the texture on the surface of the fabric clear and natural.
在其中的一些实施例中,所述PTT/PET复合丝中PTT纤维与PET纤维配比范围为1:1~3:2,该设置中PTT/PET复合丝的成本远低于面料成本,但是其形成的永久性的主体螺旋结构具备了PTT纤维和PET纤维的所有优点,使得最终形成的面料的性能优于现有的棉料,优选的,所述PTT/PET复合丝中PTT纤维与PET纤维的配比为3:2,此时可以获得最佳的复合丝性能。In some of the embodiments, the ratio of PTT fiber to PET fiber in the PTT/PET composite yarn is in the range of 1:1 to 3:2. In this setting, the cost of the PTT/PET composite yarn is much lower than the cost of the fabric, but the permanent main spiral structure formed by it has all the advantages of PTT fiber and PET fiber, so that the performance of the final fabric is better than the existing cotton material. Preferably, the ratio of PTT fiber to PET fiber in the PTT/PET composite yarn is 3:2, at which time the best composite yarn performance can be obtained.
较佳的,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝中PTT/PET复合丝与全消光普通涤纶配比范围为1:1~2:3,该设置可以有效地降低所述PTT/PET复合丝的涤感,使得所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝具备棉料的外观和手感,优选的,双组份仿棉弹性复合丝中PTT/PET复合丝与全消光普通涤纶配比为2:3,此时可以获得最佳的双组份仿棉弹性复合丝性能。Preferably, the ratio of PTT/PET composite yarn to full-dull ordinary polyester in the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn is in the range of 1:1 to 2:3. This setting can effectively reduce the polyester feel of the PTT/PET composite yarn, so that the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn has the appearance and feel of cotton material. Preferably, the ratio of PTT/PET composite yarn to full-dull ordinary polyester in the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn is 2:3, at this time, the best two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn performance can be obtained.
实施例2Example 2
一种面料的制备方法,所述方法用于制备上述实施例1所述的面料,所述制备方法包括步骤:A method for preparing a fabric, the method is used to prepare the fabric described in the above embodiment 1, the preparation method comprising the steps of:
S1,纱支准备;S1, yarn count preparation;
S2,面料织造;S2, fabric weaving;
S3,染整工艺。S3, dyeing and finishing process.
进一步的,所述步骤S1,纱支准备过程包括:选取双组份仿棉弹性复合丝和涤纶长丝作为编织材料。Furthermore, in step S1, the yarn count preparation process includes: selecting a two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn and a polyester filament as a weaving material.
优选的,在所述步骤S1中,选取50D-180D粗细的双组份仿棉弹性复合丝和100D-300D粗细的涤纶长丝作为编织材料。Preferably, in step S1, a two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn with a thickness of 50D-180D and a polyester filament with a thickness of 100D-300D are selected as the weaving materials.
如图5所示的面料中,双组份仿棉弹性复合丝的粗细为125D,涤纶长丝的粗细为150D,该面料可以获得相近与棉料的外观和手感,且其服用性能远高于棉料织物。In the fabric shown in FIG5 , the thickness of the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarn is 125D, and the thickness of the polyester filament is 150D. The fabric can obtain an appearance and feel similar to that of cotton, and its wearing performance is much higher than that of cotton fabric.
进一步的,所述步骤S2,面料采用纬编大圆机进行织造,针距20G~40G,Furthermore, in step S2, the fabric is woven using a weft knitting circular machine with a needle gauge of 20G to 40G.
具体的,步骤S2中,面料织造过程包括:所述面料编织时的织针排列方式为上针盘AB顺序排列,下针盘BA顺序排列,其中A代表高踵针,B代表低踵针,所述面料编织时的织针工作情况如下:第1、2路编织双罗纹组织,即第1路上针盘、下针筒高踵针全部参与编织,低踵针全部不参与工作;第2路上针盘、下针筒低踵针全部参与编织,高踵针全部不参与工作;第3路上针盘织针不参与工作,下针筒织针全部参与编织;第4路下针筒织针不参与工作,上针盘织针全部参与编织;第5、6路编织双罗纹组织,即第5路上针盘、下针筒高踵针全部参与编织,低踵针全部不参与工作;第6路上针盘、下针筒低踵针全部参与编织,低高针全部不参与工作;第7路上针盘织针不参与工作,下针筒织针全部参与编织;第8路下针筒织针不参与工作,上针盘织针全部参与编织。Specifically, in step S2, the fabric weaving process includes: the knitting needle arrangement mode of the fabric knitting is that the upper needle disc is arranged in AB sequence, and the lower needle disc is arranged in BA sequence, wherein A represents high heel needles, and B represents low heel needles, and the knitting needle working conditions of the fabric knitting are as follows: the 1st and 2nd routes knit double rib structures, that is, the high heel needles of the needle disc and the lower needle cylinder on the 1st route are all involved in knitting, and the low heel needles are not involved in the work; the needle disc and the low heel needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 2nd route are all involved in knitting, and the high heel needles are not involved in the work; the needle disc knits the needles on the 3rd route The 4th needle cylinder knitting needles do not participate in the work, and all the lower needle cylinder knitting needles participate in the knitting; the 5th and 6th needle cylinder knitting needles do not participate in the work, and all the upper needle dial knitting needles participate in the knitting; the 5th and 6th knit double rib structure, that is, the upper needle dial and the high heel needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 5th route all participate in the knitting, and the low heel needles do not participate in the work; the upper needle dial and the low heel needles of the lower needle cylinder on the 6th route all participate in the knitting, and the low high needles do not participate in the work; the needle dial needles on the 7th route do not participate in the work, and all the lower needle cylinder knitting needles participate in the knitting; the 8th needle cylinder knitting needles do not participate in the work, and all the upper needle dial needles participate in the knitting.
进一步的,所述步骤S2中,第1、2、3、4、5、6路采用50D-180D的双组份仿棉弹性复合丝进行编织;第7、8路采用100D-300D的涤纶长丝进行编织,其中,所述双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与所述涤纶长丝的粗细比为2:3~5:6。Furthermore, in step S2, the first, second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth routes are woven with 50D-180D two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarns; the seventh and eighth routes are woven with 100D-300D polyester filaments, wherein the thickness ratio of the two-component cotton-like elastic composite yarns to the polyester filaments is 2:3 to 5:6.
进一步的,所述步骤S3,染整工艺包括步骤:Furthermore, the step S3, the dyeing and finishing process comprises the steps of:
S31,平幅水洗;S31, open width washing;
S32,毛坯预定型;S32, blank pre-forming;
S33,染色;S33, staining;
S34,磨毛;S34, sanded;
S35,复定型。S35, complex shaping.
其中,所述步骤S31,平幅水洗包括:将所述步骤S2织造完成的面料以开幅平整的状态进入平幅机进行水洗,温度60℃~80℃、车速15~25m/min。由于胚布下织机后,门幅比较大,此时直接对其进行预定型,容易导致径向收缩程度不够,进而影响到织物的克重量及手感的丰满及厚实程度,在本实施例中,在预定型前增加设置平幅水洗的步骤,使的织物受热后充分回缩,这样不易产生折印和皱印,从而获得更好的面料外观和手感,优选的,所述水洗温度为75℃,车速为25m/min。Among them, the step S31, open-width washing includes: the fabric woven in the step S2 is put into the open-width machine for washing in a flat state, the temperature is 60℃~80℃, and the speed is 15~25m/min. Since the width of the grey cloth is relatively large after it comes off the loom, it is easy to cause insufficient radial shrinkage if it is directly pre-shaped at this time, which further affects the gram weight of the fabric and the fullness and thickness of the hand feel. In this embodiment, the step of setting open-width washing is added before pre-shaped, so that the fabric shrinks fully after being heated, so that it is not easy to produce folds and wrinkles, thereby obtaining a better appearance and feel of the fabric. Preferably, the washing temperature is 75℃ and the speed is 25m/min.
在本实施例中,所述步骤S32,毛坯预定型包括:将所述步骤S31平幅水洗后的面料在170~180℃下进行高温预定型,车速在20~30m/min、超喂12%~25%,纬向拉伸0~6%,优选的,所述预定型的温度为175℃,车速25m/min,超喂15%,该设置防止在后续的染色过程中出现面料变薄或者塌方的情况。In this embodiment, the step S32, the pre-forming of the blank includes: high-temperature pre-forming the fabric after the open-width washing in the step S31 at 170-180°C, with a speed of 20-30m/min, overfeeding of 12%-25%, and weft stretching of 0-6%. Preferably, the pre-forming temperature is 175°C, the speed is 25m/min, and the overfeed is 15%. This setting prevents the fabric from becoming thinner or collapsing during the subsequent dyeing process.
作为本发明的一个实施例,所述步骤S33,染色包括:将毛坯预定型后的坯布浸入到染缸,浴比1:10,采用分散染料,分段控温染色,染色后进行还原清洗;其中,所述分散染料包括:染料2-3%、匀染剂2-3g/L、螯合分散剂1.5-3g/L、醋酸钠3-5g/L和HAc(pH 4.5-5);所述分段控温工艺为:从常温按1.5℃/min升温至85℃,保温5min,再按1.5℃/min继续升温至120℃,保温40-50分钟,按2℃/min降温至70℃,所述还原清洗的清洗液包括:2.5g/L的Na2CO3和2.5g/L的保险粉。As an embodiment of the present invention, the step S33, dyeing includes: immersing the pre-formed grey cloth into a dyeing vat, with a bath ratio of 1:10, using disperse dyes, dyeing with segmented temperature control, and performing reduction cleaning after dyeing; wherein the disperse dyes include: 2-3% dye, 2-3g/L leveling agent, 1.5-3g/L chelating dispersant, 3-5g/L sodium acetate and HAc (pH 4.5-5); the segmented temperature control process is: heating from room temperature to 85°C at 1.5°C/min, keeping warm for 5 minutes, then continuing to heat to 120°C at 1.5°C/min, keeping warm for 40-50 minutes, and cooling to 70°C at 2°C/min, and the cleaning solution for the reduction cleaning includes: 2.5g/L Na2CO3 and 2.5g/L hydrosulfite .
进一步的,所述步骤S34,磨毛包括:碳素磨毛机上进行磨毛处理,其中,磨毛车速为16~20m/min,磨毛遍数为2遍,该设置可将面料表面的纤维磨削形成绒毛状,从而使面料的表面更为蓬松柔软,更加贴近棉料的手感,同时也更加亲肤,优选的,所述磨毛车速为18m/min。Furthermore, in step S34, the sanding includes: performing sanding treatment on a carbon sanding machine, wherein the sanding speed is 16-20 m/min, and the sanding times are 2 times. This setting can grind the fibers on the surface of the fabric into a fluffy state, thereby making the surface of the fabric more fluffy and soft, closer to the feel of cotton material, and more skin-friendly. Preferably, the sanding speed is 18 m/min.
进一步的,所述步骤S35,复定型包括:将所述步骤S34染色后的面料在130℃~150℃下进行复定型处理,车速22~28m/min、超喂18%~22%,通过该设置获得最终成型的双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料,优选的,所述复定型温度为150℃,车速为25m/min,超喂20%。Furthermore, the step S35, the reshaping includes: performing reshaping treatment on the fabric dyed in the step S34 at 130°C to 150°C, with a speed of 22 to 28 m/min and an overfeed of 18% to 22%. Through this setting, the final formed two-component polyester imitation cotton elastic knitted fabric is obtained. Preferably, the reshaping temperature is 150°C, the speed is 25 m/min, and the overfeed is 20%.
综上所述,不难得出:本实施例提供的面料及其制备方法具有以下优点:In summary, it is not difficult to conclude that the fabric and preparation method thereof provided in this embodiment have the following advantages:
第一,本申请所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料采用双组份仿棉弹性复合丝与常规涤纶交织,使得面料具备接近棉的外观和手感;First, the bi-component polyester imitation cotton elastic knitted fabric described in the present application is interwoven with bi-component imitation cotton elastic composite yarn and conventional polyester, so that the fabric has an appearance and feel close to cotton;
第二,申请所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的双组份聚酯弹性纤维与常规涤纶交织的面料具有优异的尺寸稳定性、抗污性、抗皱性、耐磨性和易染色性;Second, the bi-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric of the application, which is a fabric interwoven with bi-component polyester elastic fiber and conventional polyester, has excellent dimensional stability, stain resistance, wrinkle resistance, abrasion resistance and easy dyeing;
第三,本申请所述双组分聚酯仿棉弹性针织面料的双组份聚酯弹性纤维与常规涤纶交织的面料上形成粗犷与细腻相结合的独特横条肌理,更具时尚感,更易吸引用户;Third, the bi-component polyester cotton-like elastic knitted fabric described in the present application is a fabric interwoven with bi-component polyester elastic fibers and conventional polyester to form a unique horizontal stripe texture that combines roughness and delicacy, which is more fashionable and easier to attract users;
第四,本申请在染整预定型前增加设置了平幅水洗工序,使得毛坯充分回缩,然后在预定型后增加设置了磨毛工艺,使得本申请提供的面料更接近棉料的蓬松柔软,也更为亲肤。Fourth, the present application adds a flat-width washing process before dyeing and pre-setting to allow the blank to shrink fully, and then adds a sanding process after pre-setting, so that the fabric provided by the present application is closer to the fluffy and softness of cotton and more skin-friendly.
虽然本发明披露如上,但本发明并非限定于此。在本说明书的描述中,参考术语“一个实施例”、“一些实施例”、“示意性实施例”、“示例”、“具体示例”、或“一些示例”等的描述意指结合该实施例或示例描述的具体特征、结构、材料或者特点包含于本发明的至少一个实施例或示例中。在本说明书中,对上述术语的示意性表述不一定指的是相同的实施例或示例。而且,描述的具体特征、结构、材料或者特点可以在任何的一个或多个实施例或示例中以合适的方式结合。任何本领域技术人员,在不脱离本发明的精神和范围内,均可作各种更动与修改,因此本发明的保护范围应当以权利要求所限定的范围为准。Although the present invention is disclosed as above, the present invention is not limited thereto. In the description of this specification, the description of reference terms "one embodiment", "some embodiments", "illustrative embodiments", "examples", "specific examples", or "some examples" etc. means that the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described in conjunction with the embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present invention. In this specification, the schematic representation of the above terms does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Moreover, the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described can be combined in any one or more embodiments or examples in a suitable manner. Any person skilled in the art can make various changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, so the scope of protection of the present invention should be based on the scope defined by the claims.
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