CN112516037A - Natural essence foundation liquid and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Natural essence foundation liquid and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112516037A
CN112516037A CN202011558717.XA CN202011558717A CN112516037A CN 112516037 A CN112516037 A CN 112516037A CN 202011558717 A CN202011558717 A CN 202011558717A CN 112516037 A CN112516037 A CN 112516037A
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parts
natural essence
stirring
phase
methyl glucose
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刘凯丽
张欢仪
林锦雄
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Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
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Guangzhou Aibei Biological Technology Co Ltd
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    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
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Abstract

The invention discloses natural essence foundation liquid and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The natural essence foundation liquid provided by the invention comprises, by weight, 5.00-20.00 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 5.26-22.35 parts of a coloring agent, 0.40-3.00 parts of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.20-2.50 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.50-3.50 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 2.00-8.00 parts of C15-19 alkane, 2.50-10.00 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2.00-8.00 parts of olive oil, 0.05-0.50 part of an antioxidant, 0.10-1.00 part of xanthan gum and the like. According to the technical scheme, the components are screened, the natural raw materials are used for preparing the biodegradable and nontoxic skin-care natural essence foundation liquid which is different from the traditional foundation liquid, and the product does not contain harmful substances and has no harm and conforms to the popular Clean Beauty concept of the current cosmetic industry.

Description

Natural essence foundation liquid and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to natural essence foundation liquid and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, Chinese consumers prefer to buy natural and safe components on cosmetics, advocate feeling of peace, embrace the environment-friendly idea of skin and love natural plant extract components. With the development and maturity of the makeup market, more than four consumers pay more attention to the safety of cosmetics, and the clear Beauty concept which does not contain harmful substances, is free of harm and is safe and nontoxic becomes an industrial hotspot, and people have higher and higher requirements on the components of the cosmetics.
The main components of the traditional foundation liquid are chemical components generally, and the problems are as follows: firstly, the material is not or not easy to degrade, and can cause environmental pollution; secondly, the long-term use of the medicine can easily cause the symptoms of dry and astringent skin, acne, speckle and the like. In order to reduce the damage of cosmetics to the skin, some current commercial foundation liquids can nourish the skin by adding some plant active ingredients. However, when the active ingredient is added, the stability of the system is affected, which easily causes the problem of oil-water separation, thereby affecting the quality structure of the product and bringing bad use feeling to consumers.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the above, the invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide the natural essence foundation liquid and the preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides a natural essence foundation liquid which comprises, by mass, 5.00-20.00 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 5.26-22.35 parts of a coloring agent, 0.40-3.00 parts of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.20-2.50 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.50-3.50 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 2.00-8.00 parts of C15-19 alkane, 2.50-10.00 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2.00-8.00 parts of olive oil, 0.05-0.50 part of an antioxidant, 0.10-1.00 part of xanthan gum, 0.50-5.00 parts of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 0.30-1.20 parts of a preservative, 35.00-75.00 parts of water, 0.50-2.00 parts of a surfactant and 0.02-0.20 part of a bark extract of mangnolia officinalis.
In the technical scheme of the invention, dioctyl carbonate, C15-19 alkane, jojoba seed oil and olive fruit oil are selected as the emollients. The dioctyl carbonate selected by the invention is derived from coconut oil and palm kernel oil, the raw materials are natural and renewable, the purity is higher than 70%, the irritation is low, the dioctyl carbonate is easy to biodegrade, the irritation to skin and mucous membrane is low, and the dioctyl carbonate is a very mild emollient.
The C15-19 alkane selected by the invention is a very light nonpolar natural emollient, has high purity and can be biodegraded.
The PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, the methyl glucose sesquistearate and the hydrogenated lecithin which are selected by the invention are all natural emulsifiers. Among them, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate is a unique natural extraction type nonionic emulsifier, which is ethoxylated methyl glucose ether esterified with stearic acid, and has 100% bioactivity. The methyl glucose sesquistearate is a unique natural extraction type nonionic emulsifier, is methyl glucose esterified by stearic acid, has 100% of activity, can be used as a coemulsifier of any system, and can stabilize viscosity in oil-in-water. PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate and methyl glucose sesquistearate can form complementary action when used simultaneously, and are safer, mild and non-irritant compared with the conventional emulsifier, and the performance is more excellent. The hydrogenated lecithin belongs to a natural emulsifier from soybean, has high stability, and can promote subcutaneous absorption of skin; has lasting moisturizing performance; the irritation can be effectively reduced, and the potential irritation of other surfactants can be reduced; and enhance the anti-inflammatory effect of the oil-soluble active.
The invention selects xanthan gum as a thickening agent, the xanthan gum is a plant gum polysaccharide, is an extracellular acidic heteropolysaccharide generated by fermentation of xanthomonas campestris, and is a biogel which integrates thickening, suspension, emulsification and stabilization into a whole and has the best performance internationally at present.
The invention selects 1, 3-propylene glycol as humectant, 100% of corn-derived high-purity 1, 3-propylene glycol does not contain preservative, has purity of over 99.8%, is mild and non-irritant, and can replace petroleum-derived 1, 2-propylene glycol and butanediol.
The jojoba seed oil selected by the invention is the only wax ester of plant source in the world, the chemical molecular arrangement of the jojoba seed oil is very similar to that of human sebum, the jojoba seed oil is very easy to be classified and absorbed by skin, the capillary pores can be unblocked, the grease secretion of oily or mixed skin can be regulated, and inflamed skin, eczema, psoriasis, pimple and the like can be improved; the fatty acid carbon chain elongase, the fatty acid reductase and the ester synthetase contained in the oil can ensure that the carbon chain of the jojoba seed oil is not easy to oxidize and can automatically synthesize esters.
The olive fruit oil selected by the invention is prepared by directly cold pressing fresh olive fruits, does not need heating and chemical treatment, reserves natural nutrient components, can be dissolved in anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants, and stably exists in neutral, alkalescent and weakly acidic systems. The olive fruit oil is rich in vitamin A, B, D, E, K, minerals and proteins, and has excellent natural moisturizing and skin caring effects.
As a preferred embodiment of the natural essence foundation liquid of the present invention, the natural essence foundation liquid includes: comprises 10.00 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 13.00 parts of colorant, 1.20 parts of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.80 part of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 1.50 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 4.00 parts of C15-19 alkane, 5.00 parts of jojoba seed oil, 4.00 parts of olive oil, 0.20 part of antioxidant, 0.40 part of xanthan gum, 2.00 parts of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 0.60 part of preservative, 56.20 parts of water, 1.00 parts of surfactant and 0.10 part of bark extract of magnolia officinalis.
As a preferred embodiment of the natural essence foundation according to the present invention, the colorant includes at least one of titanium dioxide and iron oxide which are surface-treated with stearoyl glutamic acid.
The coloring agent selected by the invention is divided into two types of titanium dioxide and ferric oxide, the titanium dioxide and the ferric oxide are both subjected to natural amino acid surface treatment by adopting stearoyl glutamic acid, and the ASG surface treated pigment has Ecocert/Cosmos certification.
As a preferred embodiment of the natural essence foundation according to the present invention, the colorant comprises: 5.00-20.00 parts of titanium dioxide and 0.26-2.35 parts of ferric oxide.
As a preferred embodiment of the natural essence foundation according to the present invention, the antioxidant includes tocopherol and wild soybean oil.
The antioxidant selected by the invention consists of tocopherol and wild soybean oil, is a natural antioxidant, can avoid lipid peroxidation and protect cell membranes; vitamin E can delay cell aging, help wound healing to prevent scar, and reduce senile plaque deposition.
As a preferred embodiment of the natural essence foundation according to the present invention, the preservative consists of gluconolactone, sodium benzoate and calcium gluconate; the surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
The preservative is composed of gluconolactone, sodium benzoate and calcium gluconate, and the composition has broad-spectrum preservative property and is a natural product; it can improve skin moisture content, has excellent toxicological tolerance, is not allergic or irritating, and helps to improve skin moisturizing effect.
The invention selects the sodium methyl cocoyl taurate as the surfactant, the sodium methyl cocoyl taurate is formed by condensing natural fatty acid and the sodium methyl taurate, the antibacterial capability is strong, the hydrophilic amino acid structure in the molecule has very little irritation to the skin, no anaphylaxis, weak acidity as the skin, greenness, safety and easy biodegradation.
As a preferred embodiment of the natural essence foundation solution of the present invention, the magnolia bark extract comprises at least one of magnolol and honokiol; the ratio of the magnolol to the honokiol is 1: 1.
The cortex magnoliae officinalis bark extract is used as a skin conditioner, the active ingredients of the cortex magnoliae officinalis bark extract are magnolol and honokiol, the content ratio of the magnolol to the honokiol is about 1:1, and the cortex magnoliae officinalis bark extract has the effects of conditioning skin, inhibiting bacteria, preventing corrosion, removing acnes, diminishing inflammation, whitening, resisting pockmarks, resisting oxidation and resisting decayed teeth.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention also provides a preparation method of the natural essence foundation liquid, which comprises the following steps:
(1) pre-dispersing dioctyl carbonate and a colorant, and grinding for 3-6 times by using a three-roll grinder until the dispersion is uniform, and recording the dispersion as an A phase;
(2) mixing PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, hydrogenated lecithin, dioctyl carbonate, C15-19 alkane, jojoba seed oil, olive oil, and antioxidant, heating to 70-90 deg.C, and dissolving to liquid state as phase B;
(3) adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring for pre-dispersion, heating to 70-90 ℃, stirring and homogenizing for 3min under the water bath condition, wherein the stirring speed is 2000-3000rpm/min, and uniformly dispersing to obtain an AB mixed phase;
(5) mixing antiseptic and water, heating to 70-90 deg.C, stirring for dissolving completely, maintaining the temperature, slowly adding xanthan gum, stirring to disperse to colloid, adding 1, 3-propylene glycol and surfactant, stirring, and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase C;
(5) slowly adding the AB mixed phase into the stirred phase C, stirring and emulsifying for 3min, wherein the stirring speed is 250-300 rpm/min; adding cortex Magnolia officinalis bark extract, homogenizing for 3min at stirring speed of 2500-.
In a preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the natural essence foundation liquid of the present invention, the amount of dioctyl carbonate added in the steps (1) and (2) is equal to 50% of the total amount of dioctyl carbonate.
As a preferable embodiment of the method for preparing the natural essence foundation according to the present invention, the stirring and homogenizing in the step (5) are both performed under a water bath condition at 80 ℃.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
according to the technical scheme, the components are screened, the natural raw materials are used for preparing the biodegradable and nontoxic skin-care natural essence foundation liquid which is different from the traditional foundation liquid, and the product does not contain harmful substances and has no harm and conforms to the popular Clean Beauty concept of the current cosmetic industry. In the formula of the natural essence foundation liquid, the type and the dosage of the emulsifier are screened and the emulsifier is compatible with the thickener, so that the product has good stability, and the product still keeps a good state after being centrifuged at 3000rpm for 60 min.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples.
The raw materials related to the technical scheme of the invention are all commercial products, and the comparison relationship between the types of the raw materials and the names of the commercial products refers to the following table 1.
TABLE 1 comparison of raw material types and trade names
Figure BDA0002855561600000051
Figure BDA0002855561600000061
The preparation method of the foundation liquid of all the examples and comparative examples related to the present invention comprises the following steps:
(1) pre-dispersing dioctyl carbonate and a colorant, and grinding for 3-6 times by using a three-roll grinder until the dispersion is uniform, and recording the dispersion as an A phase;
(2) mixing PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, hydrogenated lecithin, dioctyl carbonate, C15-19 alkane, jojoba seed oil, olive oil and antioxidant, heating to 70-90 deg.C, dissolving to liquid state, and recording as phase B, wherein the addition amount of dioctyl carbonate in step (1) and step (2) is 50% of the total amount of dioctyl carbonate;
(3) adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring for pre-dispersion, heating to 70-90 ℃, stirring and homogenizing for 3min under the water bath condition, wherein the stirring speed is 2000-3000rpm/min, and uniformly dispersing to obtain an AB mixed phase;
(6) mixing antiseptic and water, heating to 70-90 deg.C, stirring for dissolving completely, maintaining the temperature, slowly adding xanthan gum, stirring to disperse to colloid, adding 1, 3-propylene glycol and surfactant, stirring, and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase C;
(5) slowly adding the AB mixed phase into the stirred phase C under the condition of 80 ℃ water bath, stirring and emulsifying for 3min, wherein the stirring speed is 250-300 rpm/min; adding cortex Magnolia officinalis bark extract, homogenizing for 3min at stirring speed of 2500-.
The foundation solutions of examples 1 to 4 were prepared according to the above preparation methods, and the components of the foundation solutions of examples 1 to 4 are shown in table 2 below.
TABLE 2 raw material composition condition tables of examples 1 to 4
Figure BDA0002855561600000071
Figure BDA0002855561600000081
The skin feel test of the applied foundation liquid prepared in the embodiment 1-4 comprises the following specific test steps: the 4 types of foundation solutions of examples 1 to 4 were distributed to 10 female subjects with healthy skin on their faces, and each subject was subjected to the same simple cleansing and skin care for 4 consecutive days at the same time point, and then samples of different types were used for 4 days in total, and sensory evaluation was performed before and after each foundation solution was used. The experience is the best in 10 points, 9 points are the best, 1 point is the worst, and the test results are shown in table 3.
Table 3 skin feel test results for foundation solutions prepared in examples 1 to 4
Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4
Object 1 10 9 9 9
Object 2 9 9 10 9
Object 3 9 9 8 8
Object 4 10 10 9 10
Object 5 10 9 9 8
Object 6 9 9 8 9
Object 7 10 10 9 9
Object 8 10 9 9 8
Object 9 10 8 9 9
Object 10 9 10 9 9
As can be seen from Table 3, the foundation solutions prepared in examples 1-4 all showed good application effects, with example 1 having the best effect.
The following examples were designed by controlling the kinds and amounts of the emulsifier and the thickener without changing the other components, using example 1 as a reference standard.
Example 5
This example differs from example 1 only in that: the emulsifier of this example is PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.20 parts, methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.20 parts, hydrogenated lecithin 0.50 parts, and the thickener is xanthan gum 1.00 parts.
Example 6
This example differs from example 1 only in that: the emulsifier of this example is PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 2.50 parts, methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.50 parts, hydrogenated lecithin 1.50 parts, and the thickener is xanthan gum 0.60 parts.
Example 7
This example differs from example 1 only in that: the emulsifier of this example is PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 2.00 parts, methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.80 parts, hydrogenated lecithin 2.50 parts, and the thickener is xanthan gum 0.50 parts.
Example 8
This example differs from example 1 only in that: the emulsifier of this example is PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.40 parts, methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.50 parts, hydrogenated lecithin 3.50 parts, and the thickener is xanthan gum 1.00 parts.
Comparative example 1
This example differs from example 1 only in that: hydrogenated lecithin was not added to the emulsifier in this example.
Comparative example 2
This example differs from example 1 only in that: this example only adds hydrogenated lecithin as an emulsifier.
Comparative example 3
This example differs from example 1 only in that: this example replaces the thickener with gellan gum.
Comparative example 4
This example differs from example 1 only in that: in this example, the emulsifier was replaced with 1.20 parts of polyglycerin-2-oleate, 0.80 part of polyglycerin-2-diisostearate, and 1.5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin.
Comparative example 5
This example differs from example 1 only in that: methyl glucose sesquistearate is not added to the emulsifier of this example.
Comparative example 6
This example differs from example 1 only in that: the emulsifier of this example is PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.40 parts, methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.15 parts, hydrogenated lecithin 0.40 parts, and the thickener is xanthan gum 0.10 parts.
Comparative example 7
This example differs from example 1 only in that: in the preparation process of this example, the step (5) was performed by stirring and homogenizing at room temperature.
The apparent states of the essence foundation liquid products prepared in examples 1 to 8 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were observed and tested, and the obtained results are shown in table 3 below.
Table 3 shows the apparent states of the essence foundation liquid products prepared in examples 1 to 8 and comparative examples 1 to 7
Product numbering Results
Example 1 Can be kept in good condition after being centrifuged for 1h at 3000rpm
Example 2 Can be kept in good condition after being centrifuged for 30min at 3000rpm
Example 3 Can be kept in good condition after being centrifuged for 30min at 3000rpm
Example 4 Can be kept in good state after being centrifuged for 30min at 3000rpm
Example 5 Can be kept in good condition after being centrifuged for 30min at 2000rpm
Example 6 Can be kept in good condition after being centrifuged for 1h at 2000rpm
Example 7 Can be kept in good condition after being centrifuged for 1h at 2000rpm
Example 8 Can be kept in good condition after being centrifuged for 30min at 3000rpm
Comparative example 1 The product has poor emulsification state and obvious color lines
Comparative example 2 After centrifuging at 3000rpm for 1h, the surface is rough and the state is not good
Comparative example 3 The emulsification effect is not good, and oil is separated out after centrifugation for 30min at 3000rpm
Comparative example 4 The phenomenon of emulsion breaking occurs
Comparative example 5 The emulsification effect is not good, and oil is separated out after centrifugation for 30min at 3000rpm
Comparative example 6 The emulsification effect is not good, and oil is separated out after centrifugation for 30min at 3000rpm
Comparative example 7 The emulsion has color lines and can not be completely wrapped
According to the results in table 3, the technical scheme of the invention has the advantages that the stability of the foundation liquid obtained by the invention is relatively better through screening the dosage of the three emulsifiers and the thickening agent and regulating and controlling the specific proportion, and the foundation liquid still keeps a good state after being centrifuged for 60min at 3000 rpm. The three emulsifiers and the thickener are not necessary, and in the preparation process of the product, the temperature has certain influence on the stability of the product, and the emulsification needs to be carried out under the condition of water bath.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The natural essence foundation liquid is characterized by comprising, by mass, 5.00-20.00 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 5.26-22.35 parts of a colorant, 0.40-3.00 parts of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.20-2.50 parts of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.50-3.50 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 2.00-8.00 parts of C15-19 alkane, 2.50-10.00 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2.00-8.00 parts of olive oil, 0.05-0.50 part of an antioxidant, 0.10-1.00 part of xanthan gum, 0.50-5.00 parts of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 0.30-1.20 parts of a preservative, 35.00-75.00 parts of water, 0.50-2.00 parts of a surfactant and 0.02-0.20 part of a magnolia bark extract.
2. The natural essence foundation of claim 1, comprising: comprises 10.00 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 13.00 parts of colorant, 1.20 parts of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 0.80 part of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 1.50 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 4.00 parts of C15-19 alkane, 5.00 parts of jojoba seed oil, 4.00 parts of olive oil, 0.20 part of antioxidant, 0.40 part of xanthan gum, 2.00 parts of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 0.60 part of preservative, 56.20 parts of water, 1.00 parts of surfactant and 0.10 part of bark extract of magnolia officinalis.
3. The natural essence foundation of claim 1 or 2, wherein the coloring agent comprises: at least one of titanium dioxide and iron oxide which are subjected to surface treatment with stearoyl glutamate.
4. The natural essence foundation of claim 3, wherein the coloring agent comprises: 5.00-20.00 parts of titanium dioxide and 0.26-2.35 parts of ferric oxide.
5. The natural essence foundation of claim 1 or 2, wherein the antioxidant comprises tocopherol and wild soybean oil.
6. The natural essence foundation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the preservative consists of gluconolactone, sodium benzoate and calcium gluconate; the surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
7. The natural essence foundation of claim 1 or 2, wherein the magnolia bark extract comprises at least one of magnolol, honokiol; the ratio of the magnolol to the honokiol is 1: 1.
8. A preparation method of natural essence foundation liquid is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) pre-dispersing dioctyl carbonate and a colorant, and grinding for 3-6 times by using a three-roll grinder until the dispersion is uniform, and recording the dispersion as an A phase;
(2) mixing PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, hydrogenated lecithin, dioctyl carbonate, C15-19 alkane, jojoba seed oil, olive oil, and antioxidant, heating to 70-90 deg.C, and dissolving to liquid state as phase B;
(3) adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring for pre-dispersion, heating to 70-90 ℃, stirring and homogenizing for 3min under the water bath condition, wherein the stirring speed is 2000-3000rpm/min, and uniformly dispersing to obtain an AB mixed phase;
(4) mixing antiseptic and water, heating to 70-90 deg.C, stirring for dissolving completely, maintaining the temperature, slowly adding xanthan gum, stirring to disperse to colloid, adding 1, 3-propylene glycol and surfactant, stirring, and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase C;
(5) slowly adding the AB mixed phase into the stirred phase C, stirring and emulsifying for 3min, wherein the stirring speed is 250-300 rpm/min; adding cortex Magnolia officinalis bark extract, homogenizing for 3min at stirring speed of 2500-.
9. The method for preparing natural essence foundation solution according to claim 8, wherein the amount of dioctyl carbonate added in step (1) and step (2) is equal to 50% of the total amount of dioctyl carbonate.
10. The method for preparing a natural essence foundation according to claim 8, wherein the stirring and homogenizing in the step (5) are both performed under a water bath condition of 80 ℃.
CN202011558717.XA 2020-12-24 2020-12-24 Natural essence foundation liquid and preparation method thereof Pending CN112516037A (en)

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Application publication date: 20210319