CN111773148B - Smooth-peel papaya seed oil cleansing oil and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Smooth-peel papaya seed oil cleansing oil and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN111773148B
CN111773148B CN202010513256.8A CN202010513256A CN111773148B CN 111773148 B CN111773148 B CN 111773148B CN 202010513256 A CN202010513256 A CN 202010513256A CN 111773148 B CN111773148 B CN 111773148B
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tetraoleate
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纪桢
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Shaanxi Xunmengli Makeup Biotechnology Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of daily chemical light industry, in particular to a smooth-skinned pawpaw seed oil cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof, wherein the cleansing oil is composed of the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-11% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4 to 0.6 percent of tocopherol; 0.0075-0.01% of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.0075-0.01% of butylated hydroxyanisole; 0.05 to 0.1 percent of propyl paraben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 10.5-10.9%; 0.2 to 0.4 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5-1%; 0.1 to 0.2 percent of papaya essence and the balance of papaya seed oil. The invention not only prepares the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil with good cleaning effect, but also realizes the reutilization of the smooth-skinned papaya processing by-products.

Description

Smooth-peel papaya seed oil cleansing oil and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of daily chemical light industry, in particular to smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Chaenomeles sinensis (thunin) Koehne is a new economic forest tree species integrating eating, medicine and appreciation, is famous for hundreds of fruits, is golden in color and aromatic in flavor, is refreshing and placed indoors, has long-lasting fruit flavor without dispersion, contains various chemical components including organic acids, steroids, triterpenes, lignans, flavonoids and other compounds, has various biological activities such as anti-tumor, immunity regulation, antibiosis and the like, contains sugar, protein, fat, minerals, VA, VD, VC, VE and the like, is rich in nutrient components, has higher nutritional and health-care values but is hard, sour and astringent, is not suitable for being eaten raw, causes fewer processed products of the Chaenomeles sinensis in the market, and also causes lower utilization rate of the Chaenomeles sinensis.
The papaya seed oil is obtained by squeezing mature papaya seeds, is rich in unsaturated fatty acid, vitamin and protease, is rich in monounsaturated fatty acid oleic acid, is easy to absorb by human bodies, has fresh and non-greasy skin after being used, is strong in oil solubility and good in thixotropy, has good compatibility with other cosmetic raw materials, can be used as oil for skin care, and has no related content for development of the cosmetics in the prior art.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide the formula and the preparation method of the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the skin-polishing papaya seed oil cleansing oil is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-11% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4 to 0.6 percent of tocopherol; 0.005-0.01% of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.005-0.01% of butyl hydroxy anisole; 0.05 to 0.1 percent of propyl paraben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 8.8-14.6%; 0.2 to 0.4 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5-1%; papaya essence 0.1-0.2%; the balance is the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil.
Preferably, the material composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 10% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.5 percent of tocopherol; 0.0075 percent of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.0075% of butylated hydroxyanisole; 0.1% of propyl paraben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 10.9%; 0.3 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 1%; papaya essence 0.1%; the balance is the shine skin papaya seed oil.
Preferably, the material composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4% of tocopherol; 0.005 percent of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.005% of butyl hydroxy anisole; 0.05% of propyl paraben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 14.6%; 0.2 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5%; papaya essence 0.2%; the balance is the shine skin papaya seed oil.
Preferably, the material composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 11% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.6 percent of tocopherol; 0.01 percent of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.01 percent of butyl hydroxy anisole; propyl paraben 0.075%; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 8.8%; 0.4 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.75%; 0.15 percent of papaya essence; the balance is the shine skin papaya seed oil.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil, which comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-11% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4 to 0.6 percent of tocopherol; 0.005-0.01% of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.005-0.01% of butyl hydroxy anisole; 0.05 to 0.1 percent of propylparaben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 8.8-14.6%; 0.2 to 0.4 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5-1%; papaya essence 0.1-0.2%; the balance is the shine skin papaya seed oil for later use;
s2, mixing DC200 dimethyl silicone oil, tocopherol, butyl hydroxy anisole, 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and part of sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, and then heating to 70-85 ℃ to obtain phase A;
wherein, the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate accounts for 23.5 to 24 percent of the total amount of the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate;
s3, mixing phenoxyethanol, the Hamamelis virginiana extract and the rest sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, and then heating to 70-85 ℃ to obtain a phase B;
s4, dropwise adding the phase B into the phase A at the speed of 0.1-0.2mL/S, stirring for 3-5min, dropwise adding the phase C papaya seed oil at the speed of 0.2-0.5mL/S, continuously stirring at 60-70 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 20-30min;
and S5, cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the papaya essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil.
Preferably, the stirring rate of adding the phase B into the phase A in the S4 is 200-220r/min.
Preferably, the stirring speed after the C phase is dripped into the S4 is 150 to 160r/min.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. according to the invention, the butylated hydroxyanisole and the 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol are added into the papaya peel oil according to the proportion of 1.
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate is selected as a preservative, is called as propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, has an antibacterial effect on yeast, mould and bacteria, can be used as a cosmetic preservative, and phenoxyethanol is colorless oily liquid and has an antibacterial effect and is also a common preservative in cosmetics, so that the propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and the cosmetic preservative are jointly used for preserving the cumin oil makeup remover.
2. According to the invention, in the formula design of the cleansing oil, the selection of the emulsifier is very important, and the cleansing oil can be easily emulsified and cleaned when contacting water after the cleansing oil is dissolved in a makeup product by selecting a proper emulsifier, so that 3 different emulsifiers are selected, namely laureth-4, sorbieth 30-tetraoleate and a self-made mixed emulsifier, and finally, the sorbieth 30-tetraoleate is obtained by comparison as the optimal emulsifier in the cleansing oil of the papaya fruit oil, and when the mass ratio of the sorbieth 30-tetraoleate to the grease is 1.
3. Experiments prove that a mixture (BB) of BHT (2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol) and Butyl Hydroxy Anisole (BHA) added in the application is used as an antioxidant, so that the deterioration of raw materials caused by oxidation can be prevented.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a graph showing the influence of three antioxidants on the antioxidant effect of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil, wherein BB corresponds to the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in example 1, VE corresponds to the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in comparative example 9, PG corresponds to the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in comparative example 8, and blank corresponds to the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in comparative example 10;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the effect of different antioxidant amounts on peroxide value (POV) of the present invention, where samples Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4 in FIG. 2 correspond to those of the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in comparative example 11, example 1, comparative example 12, and comparative example 13, respectively;
FIG. 3 is a table showing the results of the makeup removal trial feedback of the papaya seed oil prepared in examples 3 to 7 of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is an emulsification test chart of the skin-smoothing papaya seed oil cleansing oil prepared in examples 3 to 7 according to the present invention using a non-height water drop method;
fig. 5 is an emulsification test chart of the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil prepared in examples 3-7 according to the present invention by a milling method.
Detailed Description
The following description will be made by reference to preferred embodiments 1 to 3 in conjunction with the embodiments of the present invention.
Example 1
A preparation method of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 10g of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.5g of tocopherol; 0.0075g of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.0075g of butylated hydroxyanisole; 0.1g of propylparaben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 10.9g; 0.3g of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 1g; 77.085g of shine skin papaya seed oil; papaya essence 0.1g;
s2, heating DC200 dimethyl silicone oil, tocopherol, butyl hydroxy anisole, 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, propylparaben and 2.6g of sorbierite polyether 30-tetraoleate to 85 ℃ to obtain a phase A;
s3, mixing phenoxyethanol, a Hamamelis virginiana extract and 8.3g of sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, and then heating to 70 ℃ to obtain a phase B;
s4, dropwise adding the phase B into the phase A at a speed of 0.1mL/S, stirring at a speed of 200r/min for 5min, dropwise adding the phase C papaya seed oil at a speed of 0.2mL/S, stirring at 60 ℃ and keeping the temperature for 30min, wherein the stirring speed is 150r/min;
and S5, cooling to 40 ℃, adding the papaya essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil.
Example 2
A preparation method of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9g of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4g of tocopherol; 0.005g of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.005g of butylated hydroxyanisole; 0.05g of propylparaben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 14.6g; 0.2g of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5g; 75.04g of shine skin papaya seed oil; 0.2g of papaya essence for later use;
s2, mixing DC200 dimethyl silicone oil, tocopherol, butyl hydroxy anisole, 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and 3.5g of sorbierite polyether 30-tetraoleate, and then heating to 80 ℃ to obtain a phase A;
s3, mixing phenoxyethanol, a Hamamelis virginiana extract and 11.1g of sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, and then heating to 80 ℃ to obtain a phase B;
s4, dropwise adding the phase B into the phase A at a speed of 0.15mL/S, stirring for 4min at a stirring speed of 210r/min, dropwise adding the phase C papaya seed oil at a speed of 0.3mL/S, stirring at 65 ℃ and keeping the temperature for 25min, wherein the stirring speed is 155r/min;
and S5, cooling to 42 ℃, adding the papaya essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil.
Example 3
A preparation method of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 11g of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.6g of tocopherol; 0.01g of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.01g of butylated hydroxyanisole; 0.075g of propyl paraben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 8.8g; 0.4g of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.75g; 78.205g of shine skin papaya seed oil; 0.15g of shine skin papaya essence for later use;
s2, mixing DC200 dimethyl silicone oil, tocopherol, butyl hydroxy anisole, 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and 2.1g of sorbierite polyether 30-tetraoleate, and heating to 85 ℃ to obtain a phase A;
wherein, the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate accounts for 24 percent of the total amount of the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate;
s3, mixing phenoxyethanol, a Hamamelis virginiana extract and 6.7g of sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, and heating to 85 ℃ to obtain a phase B;
s4, dropwise adding the phase B into the phase A at a speed of 0.2mL/S, stirring at a speed of 220r/min, stirring for 3min, dropwise adding the phase C papaya seed oil at a speed of 0.5mL/S, stirring at 70 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 30min, wherein the stirring speed is 160r/min;
and S5, cooling to 45 ℃, adding the papaya essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil.
Comparative example 1
The procedure was the same as in example 1 except that sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate was replaced with laureth-4.
Comparative example 2
The same procedure as in example 1 was followed, except that sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate was replaced with a mixed emulsifier comprising tween 20 and span 80, and the mass ratio of tween 20 to 80 was 48.
The skin-smoothing papaya seed oil cleansing oil prepared in the embodiments 1 to 3 has good stability, no flocculation, no precipitation, strong ultraviolet oxidation resistance and good cleaning effect, the cleansing effect of the skin-smoothing papaya seed oil cleansing oil prepared in the embodiments 1 to 3 is similar, and the emulsifier and the antioxidant of the skin-smoothing papaya seed oil are selected as follows, and the specific method comprises the following steps:
1. selection of an emulsifier:
because the emulsifier can damage skin tissues and make the skin sensitive, the less the emulsifier is used, the better the emulsifier is, the better the grease on the skin can be cleaned, so that the group with the best effect and the least emulsifier is selected, and the emulsifier used in the formula can be used as the emulsifier in the final formula.
TABLE 1 dosage of the skin-smoothing papaya seed oil cleansing oil emulsifier
Figure BDA0002529181620000081
Figure BDA0002529181620000091
In the formula design of the makeup remover, the selection of the emulsifier is very important, and the proper emulsifier can be selected to easily emulsify and clean the makeup remover when the makeup remover is contacted with water after the makeup remover is dissolved in a makeup product. Therefore, 3 different emulsifiers are selected and are respectively the emulsifier in the embodiment 1, the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 2, the emulsifier selected in the comparative example 1 is laureth-4, the laureth-4 is totally called laureth-4, and the laureth-4; the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate in example 1 and the mixed emulsifier in comparative example 2 are nonionic surfactants, and both of laureth-4, sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate and mixed emulsifier can be used as emulsifiers in makeup remover oil, and the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate and mixed emulsifier in example 1 are nonionic surfactants, are good emulsifiers, and can stably emulsify with a small amount of oil and fat; the mixed emulsifier of the comparative example 2 comprises Tween 20 (Tween-20) and Span (Span-80), wherein the Tween 20 is fully called polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate which is a water-soluble emulsifier, and the Span 80 is fully called sorbitan fatty acid ester which is a lipophilic emulsifier, and the emulsifier with the required HLB value can be obtained by matching the Tween 20 and the Span 80 according to the proportion; therefore, the emulsifiers of the example 1, the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 2 are all the emulsifiers with excellent emulsifying performance in the prior art, and the following samples of the example 1, the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 2 are compared to obtain the emulsifier most suitable for the papaya seed oil, and the specific test method and the test result are as follows:
2. study of emulsifier stability:
(1) Centrifugal test
The skin-removing papaya seed oil prepared in the example 1, the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 2 is respectively placed in a centrifuge tube, the height of the skin-removing papaya seed oil in the centrifuge tube is 2/3, then the skin-removing papaya seed oil is placed in a centrifuge, the skin-removing papaya seed oil is centrifuged at the speed of 2000r/min for 30min, the skin-removing papaya seed oil is taken out, observed whether layering exists or not is recorded, the sample is continuously placed in the centrifuge, the skin-removing papaya seed oil is centrifuged at 3000r/min for 30min, the skin-removing papaya seed oil is taken out, observed whether layering exists or not is recorded, the sample is placed in the centrifuge, the skin-removing papaya seed oil is centrifuged at 4000r/min for 30min, and the skin-removing papaya seed oil is taken out, observed whether layering exists or not is recorded.
The results of the centrifugation test according to the method of the centrifugation test are shown in Table 2:
TABLE 2 results of centrifugation experiments with different emulsifiers
Number of revolutions (r/min) Comparative example 1 Example 1 Comparative example 2
2000 +
3000
4000 +
And (3) annotation: + means layering, -means no layering;
the centrifugal test result shows that no layering phenomenon exists after 3 times of centrifugation in the embodiment 1, and the layering phenomenon already exists after the centrifugation in the comparative example 1 at the rotating speed of 2000r/min for 1 time, so that the emulsifying property is poor; comparative example 2 has no layering after centrifugation at the rotation speed of 2000r/min for the 1 st time and at the rotation speed of 3000r/min for the 2 nd time, and the layering appears after the centrifugation at the rotation speed of 4000r/min for the last time, and compared with the emulsifier of comparative example 1, the emulsifying effect of the emulsifier of example 1 is best, and the emulsifier of comparative example 2 is next, and the worst is the emulsifier of comparative example 1.
(2) Cold and heat resistance alternation experiment
Cold resistance test: pouring a sample into a small test tube, tightly covering a plug, putting into a refrigerator with the temperature being adjusted to-15 ℃ in advance, taking out after the temperature is raised to the room temperature, carrying out visual comparison on the sample with the room temperature after the temperature is raised to the room temperature, and observing whether layering occurs or not.
Heat resistance test: and pouring a sample into the small test tube, tightly covering the plug, putting the small test tube into an oven with the temperature being adjusted to 48 ℃ in advance, taking out the small test tube after the temperature is reduced to room temperature, carrying out visual comparison on the small test tube and the room temperature sample after the temperature is reduced to the room temperature, and observing whether layering occurs or not.
After the cold resistance test is completed, and then the heat resistance test is performed, which is called a cold and hot cycle, the cycle is repeated for 3 times, and whether the sample is layered or not is observed and recorded. The results obtained are shown in table 3:
table 3 Cold and Heat resistance alternation test results of different emulsifiers
Number of times Comparative example 1 Example 1 Comparative example 2
1 (Heat-resistant) +
2 (Cold-resistant) +
3 (Heat-resistant)
4 (Cold-resistant)
5 (Heat-resistant)
6 (Cold-resistant)
And (3) annotation: + means layering, -means no layering;
as can be seen from tables 3 and 4 above, the cleansing oil of example 1 is most stable and the emulsifier used therein performs best, so that sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, the emulsifier of example 1, was selected as the emulsifier of the present invention and used as the next step to quantitatively analyze different amounts of the same emulsifier to determine the amount of emulsifier.
3. Determination of the amount of emulsifier
(1) Judging the dosage of the emulsifier:
comparative example 3
The procedure was as in example 1 except that 10.9g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate was replaced with 12.3g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate.
Comparative example 4
The procedure was as in example 1 except that 10.9g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate was replaced with 11g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate.
Comparative example 5
The procedure is as in example 1, except that 10.9g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate are replaced by 9.9g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate.
Comparative example 6
The procedure was as in example 1 except that 10.9g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate was replaced with 9g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate.
Comparative example 7
The procedure was as in example 1 except that 10.9g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate was replaced with 16.5g of sorbitan polyether 30-tetraoleate.
The grease in the embodiment 1 comprises DC200 dimethyl silicone oil, tocopherol, phenoxyethanol and cornus wilsoniana seed oil, and the mass ratio of the grease in the embodiment 1 to the emulsifier sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate is approximately 6:1, on the basis of which 5 groups of formulas with different dosages of the same emulsifier are set, namely the samples of comparative example 3 to comparative example 7, the proportion of the grease to the emulsifier is respectively 7: 1. 8:1. 9: 1. 10: 1. 5: the recipe set for group 1,5 is shown in table 4:
TABLE 4 formulation design for different amounts of sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate
Figure BDA0002529181620000121
Figure BDA0002529181620000131
The stability test was performed on the samples of Table 4 below
(1) Centrifugation experiment centrifugation tests were performed according to the method of centrifugation experiment, and the results are shown in table 5:
TABLE 5 centrifugal test results of different dosages of the same emulsifier in groups
Number of revolutions (r/min) Comparative example 3 Comparative example 4 Comparative example 5 Comparative example 6 Comparative example 7
2000
3000 +
4000
Note that: + means layering, -means no layering;
(2) cold and heat resistance alternation test the test was carried out according to the method of the heat and cold resistance alternation test, and the results are shown in table 6 (+ indicates presence of delamination, -indicates absence of delamination):
table 6 results of cold-resistant and heat-resistant alternation experiment of different dosages of the same emulsifier in the same group
Figure BDA0002529181620000132
Figure BDA0002529181620000141
And (3) annotation: + means layering, -means no layering;
from the above tables 5 and 6, it can be seen that the formulation stability of the remaining 4 groups is better except for the comparative example 6, that is, the mass ratio of the papaya seed oil to the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate is approximately 5-9:1, the obtained smooth-skinned pawpaw cleansing oil has excellent emulsifying property.
(2) Sensory testing
Solubility test
And (3) respectively applying 5 groups of the cleansing oil products in comparative examples 3-7 to the skin where lipstick, eyebrow pencil, mascara, eye liner, foundation make-up and eye shadow are drawn, and judging the solubility of the cleansing oil in the makeup remover according to the diffusion degree of the makeup remover and other makeup cosmetics in the makeup remover. The method comprises the following specific steps: draw 0.5cm on the skin 2 The makeup remover is characterized in that two drops of makeup remover oil are taken by a plastic dropper from the positions where the makeup is drawn, the positions are stood for 5min, the diffusion degree of the makeup remover oil is observed and recorded, and the result is shown in table 7:
TABLE 7 solubility test
Lipstick Eyebrow pencil Eye shadow Foundation make-up Mascara cream Eye line
Comparative example 3 +++ +++ +++ +++
Comparative example 4 +++ +++ +++ +++ + ++
Comparative example 5 ++ ++ ++ +++
Comparative example 6 ++ ++ ++ ++
Comparative example 7 +++ +++ +++ +++ +
And (3) annotation: good solubility; the solubility is better; + general solubility; the solubility is weak.
As can be analyzed from table 1, the makeup remover oil for the cornus wilsoniana seed oil prepared in comparative examples 3 to 7 has excellent solubility for eyebrow pencils, eye shadows, lipsticks and foundations, and the makeup remover oil for the cornus wilsoniana seed oil prepared in comparative example 4 has excellent solubility for eyebrow pencils, eye shadows, lipsticks, foundations, mascaras and eyeliners, which indicates that the mass ratio of the cornus wilsoniana seed oil to the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate emulsifier is approximately 8:1, has the best dissolution performance.
Greasiness test
Finding 30 classmates (10 places of each oily, neutral and dry skin), respectively trying the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil prepared in the comparative examples 3-7, and feeding back the product, wherein the feedback result is shown in figure 3 and is obtained according to the feedback after the trial of the 30 classmates: the analysis data shows that the cosmetic removing oil prepared in the comparative example 3 and the comparative example 4 is refreshing, the proportion of people with greasy feeling of the cosmetic removing oil prepared in the comparative example 5 and the comparative example 6 is large, the cosmetic removing oil prepared in the comparative example 7 is refreshing, and in conclusion, the cosmetic removing oil prepared in the comparative example 3, the comparative example 4 and the comparative example 7 is refreshing after the face is cleaned.
Emulsifiability test
And (3) respectively carrying out an emulsification test on the cleansing oil prepared from the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil prepared in the comparative example 3-7 by using a non-high water drop method and a grinding method. According to the non-height water drop method in the figure 4, when water drops close to the oil surface from a non-height position, the oil surface is immediately emulsified and whitened after contacting water, which shows that the papaya seed cleansing oil products prepared in the comparative examples 3, 4 and 7 have good self-emulsifying capacity, and the comparative example 6 has poor self-emulsifying capacity; the skin-smooth papaya seed cleansing oil prepared by the steps of fig. 5, comparative example 3, comparative example 4 and comparative example 7 is dripped onto the cleansing oil of a glass slide and is ground by a glass rod, the cleansing oil is immediately emulsified, and no layering occurs during standing, so that the cleansing oil has good emulsifying capacity, while the cleansing oil prepared by the step 5 and the comparative example 6 has good emulsifying capacity after water is added, and oil drops appear after standing, so that the emulsifying capacity is poor, and in conclusion, the skin-smooth papaya seed cleansing oil products prepared by the steps of the comparative examples 3, 4 and 7 have good self-emulsifying capacity.
Cleaning force test
The cleansing power of the skin-smoothing papaya seed oil cleansing oil prepared in comparative examples 3 to 7 was tested, and two drops of the cleansing oil were dropped on the skin and painted with makeup (the area of the makeup painting area was 0.5cm each) 2 ) After 5min of rest, the skin was rinsed with water, the degree of cleaning observed and recorded, and the results are shown in table 8:
TABLE 8 clean force test
Lipstick Eyebrow pencil Eye shadow Foundation make-up Mascara cream Eye line
Comparative example 3 +++ +++ +++ +++ ++ ++
Comparative example 4 +++ +++ +++ +++ ++ ++
Comparative example 5 ++ ++ ++ +++ + +
Comparative example 6 + + + +
Comparative example 7 +++ +++ +++ +++ ++ ++
In the figure: the cleaning power is good; the + cleaning power is better; + poor cleaning power; -difference in cleaning force.
The cleansing power of the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in comparative example 3, comparative example 4 and comparative example 7, which can be obtained from table 8, was good, while the cleansing oil in which the color cosmetics were dissolved was difficult to wash from the skin due to the small proportion of the emulsifier in comparative example 5 and comparative example 6, which resulted in poor cleansing power.
To sum up, according to the results of the solubility, greasiness, emulsifiability and detergency tests, it can be found that: the formula of comparative example 4 has the least amount of emulsifier on the premise of ensuring that the oil on the skin can be cleaned, the emulsifier is finally sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate with the best stability, and the mass ratio of the papaya seed cleansing oil to the emulsifier is 8.
The above studies were carried out on the selection of the emulsifier and the determination of the amount of the emulsifier, and the antioxidant was selected below in order to obtain the cosmetic remover oil from papaya seeds with the best antioxidant properties.
Selection of antioxidant:
(1) Determination of peroxide number
Comparative example 8
The same procedure as in example 2 was followed, except that 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and butylhydroxyanisole were each replaced with propyl gallate;
comparative example 9
The same procedure as in example 2 was followed, except that 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and butylated hydroxyanisole were each replaced with vee;
comparative example 10
The procedure was as in example 2 except that 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and butylated hydroxyanisole were not added.
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
weighing 10g of the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil samples prepared in the example 1, the comparative example 8 and the comparative example 9, placing the samples in a beaker, adding 0.01% of antioxidant by mass, storing the samples for 9 days at (60 +/-1) DEG C under the condition of no air blast, detecting the peroxide value (24 h/time), repeating the experiment for 3 times, and taking an average value; determining the peroxide value of the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil according to an ultraviolet spectrophotometry, and evaluating the antioxidant activity of the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil;
the antioxidants of example 2, comparative example 8 and comparative example 9 were selected from a mixture (BB) of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and butyl hydroxyanisole, vitamin E (VE) and Propyl Gallate (PG), the blank control group was a makeup removing oil of papaya seed oil without antioxidant, and according to the specifications of cosmetic safety technical specifications (GB 2760-2014), 0.02% was the maximum additive amount of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol (BHT) and Butyl Hydroxyanisole (BHA), 0.01% of propyl gallate was the maximum additive amount, and vitamin E was used in a proper amount, so the addition amounts of 3 antioxidants in the peroxide number determination experiment were all set to 0.01%, 3 different antioxidants were added to the makeup removing oil of papaya seed oil by Schaal oven method, and the effects of different antioxidants on the makeup removing oil during oxidation in a fixed time were compared.
As shown in fig. 1, fig. 1 shows the influence of three antioxidants on the antioxidant effect of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil, and the peroxide value of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil added with the 3 antioxidants is lower than that of a blank control group, which indicates that the three antioxidants have the antioxidant effect, wherein the peroxide capacity of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil is as follows: blank PG < VE < BB, and POV value of the skin-smooth papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in the example 1, the comparative example 8 and the comparative example 9 is slowly increased in 48 hours before the experiment, because the skin-smooth papaya seed oil in the cleansing oil is rich in polyphenol and flavonoid substances and plays a certain role in antioxidation, and the antioxidant in the skin-smooth papaya seed oil cleansing oil is obvious after 48 hours, wherein BB has the strongest antioxidation, so that the mixture (BB) of the 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and the butyl hydroxy anisole prepared in the example 2 is used as the antioxidant.
(2) Effect of the amount of different antioxidants (BB) on the peroxide number (POV)
Comparative example 11
The procedure was as in example 1 except for replacing 0.0075g of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and 0.005g of butylated hydroxyanisole by 0.0075g of these reactants.
Comparative example 12
The procedure was carried out in the same manner as in example 1 except that 0.0075g of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol was replaced with 0.01g, and 0.0075g of butylated hydroxyanisole was replaced with 0.01g.
Comparative example 13
The procedure was as in example 1 except that 0.0075g of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol was replaced with 0.0125g, and 0.0075g of butyl hydroxyanisole was replaced with 0.0125g.
Accurately weighing 4 parts of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil, 10g of each part, placing the weighed 4 parts in a beaker, adding 0.01%, 0.015%, 0.02% and 0.025% of BB into the 4 parts, namely the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in the comparative example 11, the example 1, the comparative example 12 and the comparative example 13, uniformly stirring the papaya seed cleansing oil prepared in the comparative example 11, the example 1, the comparative example 12 and the comparative example 13, placing the mixture in an oven at (60 +/-1) DEG C, exchanging the positions of the papaya seed cleansing oil in the oven every day, stirring the mixture once at regular time, sampling every 24 hours to determine the peroxide value, and continuously monitoring for 7d.
FIG. 2 shows the effect of different amounts of antioxidants on peroxide value (POV), and samples No. 1, 2, 3 and 4 in FIG. 2 correspond to the makeup removing oil prepared in comparative example 11, example 1, comparative example 12 and comparative example 13, respectively, wherein the mass percentages of the mixture BB containing 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and butyl hydroxyanisole are 0.01%, 0.015%, 0.02% and 0.025%, respectively, and no BB is studied because the peroxide value (POV) is similar to the mass percentage of the mixture BB containing 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and butyl hydroxyanisole, which is 0.01%, in the absence of BB. As can be seen from figure 2, as the mass fraction of BB increases, the antioxidant effect of BB is enhanced, the BB is strongest at 0.025%, the mass fraction of BB is not greatly different from that of BB at 0.015%, the effective effect of BB at 0.01% is not obvious, and the BB at 0.015% is selected as the optimal additive amount of the papaya seed oil cleansing oil in consideration of certain irritation of BB to the skin.
In conclusion, the glabrous papaya seed oil is rich in nutrition but low in oxidation resistance, an antioxidant with good oxidation resistance needs to be selected as the base oil of the makeup remover, the oxidation resistance of the three antioxidants is compared and researched by adopting a Schaal oven method, a mixture (BB) of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol and butyl hydroxyanisole with the best oxidation resistance is selected as the antioxidant of the makeup remover, and the addition amount of the BB is determined to be 0.015%. And applying an appearance evaluation technology to the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil of comparative example 3-comparative example 7 to measure a series of solubility, emulsibility and the like of the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil to determine an optimal formula. The prepared skin-polishing papaya seed oil cleansing oil is particularly suitable for removing makeup.
It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made in the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Thus, if such modifications and variations of the present invention fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention and their equivalents, the present invention is also intended to include such modifications and variations.

Claims (6)

1. The skin-polishing papaya seed oil cleansing oil is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-11% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4 to 0.6 percent of tocopherol; 0.005-0.01% of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.005-0.01% of butyl hydroxy anisole; 0.05 to 0.1 percent of propylparaben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 8.8-14.6%; 0.2 to 0.4 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5-1%; papaya essence 0.1-0.2%; the balance is the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil.
2. The smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil according to claim 1 is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 10% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.5 percent of tocopherol; 0.0075 percent of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.0075% of butylated hydroxyanisole; 0.1% of propylparaben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 10.9%; 0.3 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 1%; papaya essence 0.1%; the balance is the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil.
3. The smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil according to claim 1 is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4% of tocopherol; 0.005 percent of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.005% of butyl hydroxy anisole; 0.05% of propylparaben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 14.6%; 0.2 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5%; papaya essence 0.2%; the balance is the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil.
4. The preparation method of the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil according to claim 1, comprising the following steps:
s1, weighing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-11% of DC200 dimethyl silicone oil; 0.4 to 0.6 percent of tocopherol; 0.005-0.01% of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; 0.005-0.01% of butyl hydroxy anisole; 0.05 to 0.1 percent of propyl paraben; sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate 8.8-14.6%; 0.2 to 0.4 percent of phenoxyethanol; hamamelis virginiana extract 0.5-1%; papaya essence 0.1-0.2%; the balance is the shine skin papaya seed oil for later use;
s2, mixing DC200 dimethyl silicone oil, tocopherol, butyl hydroxy anisole, 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, propylparaben and part of sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, and then heating to 70-85 ℃ to obtain phase A;
wherein, the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate accounts for 23.5-24% of the total amount of the sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate;
s3, mixing phenoxyethanol, the Hamamelis virginiana extract and the rest sorbitol polyether 30-tetraoleate, and then heating to 70-85 ℃ to obtain a phase B;
s4, dropwise adding the phase B into the phase A at the speed of 0.1-0.2mL/S, stirring for 3-5min, dropwise adding the phase C papaya seed oil at the speed of 0.2-0.5mL/S, continuously stirring at 60-70 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 20-30min;
and S5, cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the papaya essence, and uniformly stirring to obtain the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil.
5. The preparation method of the smooth-skinned papaya seed oil cleansing oil according to claim 4, wherein the stirring rate of adding phase B to phase A in S4 is 200-220r/min.
6. The preparation method of the shine skin papaya seed oil cleansing oil according to claim 4, wherein the stirring rate after the C phase is dripped into the S4 is 150-160r/min.
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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104611126A (en) * 2015-01-30 2015-05-13 赵国 Method for extracting pawpaw oil from pawpaw seeds
CN104706566A (en) * 2015-03-31 2015-06-17 海南医学院 Pawpaw seed oil antiwrinkling sleeping mask and preparation method thereof
CN108721151A (en) * 2018-08-29 2018-11-02 安徽卢氏生态农业科技有限责任公司 A kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof being prepared by trichosanthes seed oil

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104611126A (en) * 2015-01-30 2015-05-13 赵国 Method for extracting pawpaw oil from pawpaw seeds
CN104706566A (en) * 2015-03-31 2015-06-17 海南医学院 Pawpaw seed oil antiwrinkling sleeping mask and preparation method thereof
CN108721151A (en) * 2018-08-29 2018-11-02 安徽卢氏生态农业科技有限责任公司 A kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof being prepared by trichosanthes seed oil

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