CN111648020B - Sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in fabric thickness direction - Google Patents

Sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in fabric thickness direction Download PDF

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CN111648020B
CN111648020B CN202010306064.XA CN202010306064A CN111648020B CN 111648020 B CN111648020 B CN 111648020B CN 202010306064 A CN202010306064 A CN 202010306064A CN 111648020 B CN111648020 B CN 111648020B
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layer
yarn
skin
fabric
moisture
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CN111648020A (en
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张海涛
胡军岩
罗文华
陈官峰
陆韶云
萧珮珊
李尧
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Best Pacific Textile Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种在织物厚度方向具有水分传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,包括采用多梳花边机编织的织物本体,所述织物本体包括纱线Y1、纱线Y2、纱线Y3至少三组纱线,织物本体上设有以纱线Y1走经平结构构成的外观层,纱线Y3走衬纬结构构成的花型层,纱线Y2走多针变化经平结构构成的贴肤层,花型层位于外观层和贴肤层之间,纱线Y1的导水能力大于纱线Y2的导水能力,使得外观层的导水能力大于贴肤层的导水能力,纱线Y3的导水能力与纱线Y2的导水能力不同,使得花型层的导水能力与贴肤层的导水能力不同,花型层在织物本体上的覆盖面积≥20%且小于100%,在织物本体上具有无花型区域。

The invention discloses a sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric, comprising a fabric body woven by a multi-comb lace machine, the fabric body comprising at least three groups of yarns, namely, yarn Y1, yarn Y2 and yarn Y3; an appearance layer formed by a warp flat structure of the yarn Y1, a pattern layer formed by a weft insert structure of the yarn Y3, and a skin-contacting layer formed by a multi-needle variable warp flat structure of the yarn Y2 are arranged on the fabric body; the pattern layer is located between the appearance layer and the skin-contacting layer; the water conduction capacity of the yarn Y1 is greater than the water conduction capacity of the yarn Y2, so that the water conduction capacity of the appearance layer is greater than the water conduction capacity of the skin-contacting layer; the water conduction capacity of the yarn Y3 is different from the water conduction capacity of the yarn Y2, so that the water conduction capacity of the pattern layer is different from that of the skin-contacting layer; the coverage area of the pattern layer on the fabric body is ≥20% and less than 100%, and a non-pattern area is provided on the fabric body.

Description

一种水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物Sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric

技术领域Technical Field

本发明属于纺织面料技术领域,具体地说是一种水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物。The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, in particular to a sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric.

背景技术Background Art

近些年来,随着科学技术的发展,人们的生活质量不断的提高,对于服装的要求也日趋提高。除了需要其具有美观的基础作用外,在不同的环境或场合还需要满足各种不同的功能。为此,技术人员对于纺织面料功能性的拓展和改善展开大量的研究。在众多研究方向当中,单向导湿纺织品由于契合了近些年来人们所提倡的运动、健康、积极的生活方式进而成为研究热点之一。这种功能面料在运动、防护服等方面具有广泛的应用潜力。但市场上现有的单向导湿织物存在功能不持久、可控性不强以及导湿速度慢等缺陷。In recent years, with the development of science and technology, people's quality of life has been continuously improved, and the requirements for clothing have also been increasing. In addition to its basic function of aesthetics, it is also necessary to meet various functions in different environments or occasions. To this end, technicians have carried out a lot of research on the expansion and improvement of the functionality of textile fabrics. Among the many research directions, unidirectional moisture-conducting textiles have become one of the research hotspots because they fit the sports, health, and active lifestyles advocated by people in recent years. This functional fabric has a wide range of application potential in sports, protective clothing, etc. However, the existing unidirectional moisture-conducting fabrics on the market have defects such as non-durable functions, weak controllability, and slow moisture conduction speed.

目前要实现单向导湿的方法主要有:1、使用功能性纱线;2、利用不同纱线的导水能力;3、利用后整理方法;4、通过贴合使正反两面有不同的吸水性能。At present, the main methods to achieve unidirectional moisture conduction are: 1. Use functional yarns; 2. Utilize the water conduction capacity of different yarns; 3. Utilize post-finishing methods; 4. Make the front and back sides have different water absorption properties through bonding.

专利 CN 207044828 U,“单向导湿面料”,通过原棉纱线与亲水纱线交织而成的局部拒水纱,及表层纱布的亲水纱线支数大于里层纱布的原棉纱线,无需任何化学处理工艺从而降低了生产成本.Patent CN 207044828 U, "One-way moisture-conducting fabric", is a partially water-repellent yarn interwoven with raw cotton yarn and hydrophilic yarn, and the hydrophilic yarn count of the surface gauze is greater than that of the raw cotton yarn of the inner gauze, and no chemical treatment process is required, thereby reducing production costs.

专利CN 110395019 A,“单向导湿速干织物的制备工艺”,用柔性竹原纤维和防水竹原纤维编织构成织物内层,构成内层的任意相邻两路分别使用柔性竹原纤维将织物内层与外层连接,构成织物。Patent CN 110395019 A, "Process for preparing one-way moisture-conducting quick-drying fabric", uses flexible bamboo fibers and waterproof bamboo fibers to weave the inner layer of the fabric, and any two adjacent paths constituting the inner layer are connected to the outer layer of the fabric using flexible bamboo fibers to form the fabric.

专利CN 109468774 A,“单向导湿针织面料加工工艺”,将选取的针织面料进行亲水处理,将亲水处理过后的面料进行拒水处理,对拒水处理后的针织面料进行产品打卷并包装。Patent CN 109468774 A, "One-way moisture-conducting knitted fabric processing technology", performs hydrophilic treatment on the selected knitted fabric, performs water-repellent treatment on the hydrophilic treated fabric, and rolls and packages the knitted fabric after water-repellent treatment.

专利CN 106827730 A,“一种双层单向导湿面料及其应用”,公开了一种双层单向导湿面料及其应用,双层单向导湿面料由织物亲肤内层和织物外层两层面料复合而成。本发明通过对织物组织结构的设计,以及选用功能性持久的纱线,构造双面异能针织物,从而实现织物的单向导湿效果。Patent CN 106827730 A, "A double-layer one-way moisture-conducting fabric and its application", discloses a double-layer one-way moisture-conducting fabric and its application, which is composed of two layers of fabric: a skin-friendly inner layer and an outer layer. The invention constructs a double-sided knitted fabric by designing the fabric structure and selecting functional and durable yarns, thereby achieving the one-way moisture-conducting effect of the fabric.

专利CN 209798238 U,“一次成型单向导湿双针床经编面料”,公开了一次成型单向导湿双针床经编面料,面料是采用双针床经编机织造的三层网布结构,包括阻水层、传导层、吸水层,采用中间梳栉进行前后编织将阻水层和吸水层进行有效连接形成;本一次成型单向导湿双针床经编面料具有极其良好的单向导湿排汗效果,且透气性好,质地柔然,亲和人体。Patent CN 209798238 U, "One-time formed unidirectional moisture-conducting double-needle bed warp knitted fabric", discloses a one-time formed unidirectional moisture-conducting double-needle bed warp knitted fabric. The fabric is a three-layer mesh structure woven by a double needle bed warp knitting machine, including a water-blocking layer, a conductive layer, and a water-absorbing layer. The water-blocking layer and the water-absorbing layer are effectively connected by weaving back and forth with an intermediate comb. The one-time formed unidirectional moisture-conducting double needle bed warp knitted fabric has extremely good one-way moisture-conducting and perspiration-wicking effect, good air permeability, soft texture, and human body affinity.

上述几个专利虽然达到了单向导湿的目的,但还存在一些不足:专利 CN207044828 U是通过原棉纱与亲水纱交织成局部拒水纱,生产工序繁琐,且局部拒水会影响面料整体效果,同时原棉纱经过多次洗涤后也会变成亲水而失去功能;专利CN 110395019A采用特殊原料,生产成本高;专利CN 109468774 A采用后整理方式来达到效果,但这个效果并不会一直存在,而是会随着衣物的穿着使用以及衣物的洗涤慢慢的减弱,直到消失,且不利于环保;专利CN 106827730 A由织物亲肤内层和织物外层两层面料复合而成,以及选用功能性持久的纱线,生产工序繁琐,生产成本高。专利CN 209798238 U采用双针床编织,面料外观相对单一,单向导湿效果可控性差。Although the above patents have achieved the purpose of unilateral moisture conduction, there are still some shortcomings: Patent CN207044828 U is a partially water-repellent yarn made by interweaving raw cotton yarn and hydrophilic yarn, the production process is cumbersome, and the local water repellency will affect the overall effect of the fabric. At the same time, the raw cotton yarn will become hydrophilic and lose its function after multiple washings; Patent CN 110395019A uses special raw materials and has high production costs; Patent CN 109468774 A uses a post-finishing method to achieve the effect, but this effect will not always exist, but will gradually weaken with the use of clothes and washing until it disappears, and it is not conducive to environmental protection; Patent CN 106827730 A is composed of two layers of fabric, a skin-friendly inner layer and an outer layer of fabric, and uses functional and durable yarns, the production process is cumbersome and the production cost is high. Patent CN 209798238 U uses double needle bed weaving, the appearance of the fabric is relatively simple, and the controllability of the unilateral moisture conduction effect is poor.

发明内容Summary of the invention

为了解决上述的技术问题,本发明提供了一种在织物厚度方向具有水分传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物。In order to solve the above technical problems, the present invention provides a sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric.

为了解决上述技术问题,本发明采取以下技术方案:In order to solve the above technical problems, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

一种在织物厚度方向具有水分传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,包括采用多梳花边机编织的织物本体,所述织物本体包括纱线Y1、纱线Y2、纱线Y3至少三组纱线,织物本体上设有以纱线Y1走经平结构构成的外观层,纱线Y3走衬纬结构构成的花型层,纱线Y2走多针变化经平结构构成的贴肤层,花型层位于外观层和贴肤层之间,纱线Y1的导水能力大于纱线Y2的导水能力,使得外观层的导水能力大于贴肤层的导水能力,纱线Y3的导水能力与纱线Y2的导水能力不同,使得花型层的导水能力与贴肤层的导水能力不同,花型层在织物本体上的覆盖面积≥20%且小于100%,在织物本体上具有无花型区域。A sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the fabric thickness direction comprises a fabric body woven by a multi-comb lace machine, the fabric body comprises at least three groups of yarns, namely, yarn Y1, yarn Y2 and yarn Y3; the fabric body is provided with an appearance layer formed by a warp flat structure of yarn Y1, a pattern layer formed by a weft insert structure of yarn Y3, and a skin-contacting layer formed by a multi-needle variable warp flat structure; the pattern layer is located between the appearance layer and the skin-contacting layer; the water conduction capacity of yarn Y1 is greater than that of yarn Y2, so that the water conduction capacity of the appearance layer is greater than that of the skin-contacting layer; the water conduction capacity of yarn Y3 is different from that of yarn Y2, so that the water conduction capacity of the pattern layer is different from that of the skin-contacting layer; the coverage area of the pattern layer on the fabric body is ≥20% and less than 100%, and a non-patterned area is provided on the fabric body.

所述外观层和贴肤层的导水能力的比设为K1:K2≥2,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向无花型区域、外观层传导的单向导湿结构。The ratio of the water conductivity of the appearance layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to K1:K2≥2, forming a unidirectional moisture-conducting structure in which moisture in the skin-contacting layer is conducted from the skin-contacting layer to the non-flowering area and the appearance layer.

所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为K3:K2≥2且外观层和花型层的导水能力比设为K1:K3≥1,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向花型层、外观层传导的单向导湿结构。The water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to K3:K2≥2, and the water conductivity ratio of the appearance layer and the pattern layer is set to K1:K3≥1, forming a unidirectional moisture-conducting structure in which moisture in the skin-contacting layer is conducted from the skin-contacting layer to the pattern layer and the appearance layer.

所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为K3:K2<0.5,使得花型层形成为阻断贴肤层水分向外观层传导的水分阻断结构。The water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to K3:K2<0.5, so that the pattern layer forms a moisture blocking structure that blocks the conduction of moisture from the skin-contacting layer to the appearance layer.

所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为0.5≤K3:K2<1,使得花型层形成水分蒸发结构层。The water conductivity ratio of the flower pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to 0.5≤K3:K2<1, so that the flower pattern layer forms a water evaporation structure layer.

所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为1≤K3:K2<2,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向花型层、外观层的差别化传递结构,水分由内向外进行差别化传递。The water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-appearing layer is set to 1≤K3:K2<2, forming a differentiated transfer structure of moisture from the skin-appearing layer to the pattern layer and the appearance layer, and the moisture is differentially transferred from the inside to the outside.

所述织物本体还包括纱线Y4,该纱线Y4为氨纶丝,走衬纬结构形成收缩层。The fabric body also includes yarn Y4, which is spandex yarn and has a weft insertion structure to form a shrinkage layer.

所述构成外观层的纱线Y1的组织结构为两针经平结构,其垫纱数码为1-2/1-0//;构成贴肤层的纱线Y2的组织结构为变化经平结构,其垫纱数码为1-0/2-3//;构成花型层的组织结构为衬纬结构,其基本组织结构垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//。The weave structure of the yarn Y1 constituting the appearance layer is a two-needle warp plain structure, and its inlay yarn number is 1-2/1-0//; the weave structure of the yarn Y2 constituting the skin-contacting layer is a variable warp plain structure, and its inlay yarn number is 1-0/2-3//; the weave structure constituting the pattern layer is a weft lining structure, and its basic weave structure inlay yarn number is 0-0/1-1//.

所述纱线Y4的组织结构为衬纬结构,其单次横移最大针数为5针,其优选垫纱数码为1-1/0-0//。The organizational structure of the yarn Y4 is a weft-inserted structure, the maximum number of needles for a single transverse shift is 5 needles, and the preferred inlay yarn number is 1-1/0-0//.

所述Y1为长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间,纱线Y1的DPF<0.6, 设为PES 75D/144F SD DTY。The Y1 is a filament or a composite yarn with a denier between 20-150D. The DPF of the yarn Y1 is less than 0.6, and is set to PES 75D/144F SD DTY.

所述纱线Y2为长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间,Y2的DPF>1,优选PES 50D/48FSD DTY。The yarn Y2 is a filament or a composite yarn, with a denier between 20-150D, a DPF of Y2>1, and preferably PES 50D/48FSD DTY.

所述纱线Y3为长丝或复合纱,旦数在40-840D之间。The yarn Y3 is a filament or a composite yarn, and the denier is between 40-840D.

本发明通过设置不同导水能力的外观层、花型层和贴肤层,形成不同的导水能力,提升织物的舒适性。The present invention forms different water-conducting capabilities by arranging the appearance layer, the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer with different water-conducting capabilities, thereby improving the comfort of the fabric.

附图说明BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

附图1为本发明剖面结构示意图;Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the cross-sectional structure of the present invention;

附图2为Y1纱线垫纱运动图;Figure 2 is a diagram of the Y1 yarn lamination motion;

附图3为Y2纱线垫纱运动图;Figure 3 is a diagram of the Y2 yarn lamination motion;

附图4为Y3纱线基本结构垫纱运动图;Figure 4 is a diagram showing the basic structure of the Y3 yarn inlay motion;

附图5为Y4纱线垫纱运动图。Figure 5 is a diagram showing the motion of the Y4 yarn inlay.

具体实施方式DETAILED DESCRIPTION

为能进一步了解本发明的特征、技术手段以及所达到的具体目的、功能,下面结合附图与具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细描述。In order to further understand the features, technical means, specific objectives and functions of the present invention, the present invention is further described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and specific implementation methods.

如附图1-5所示,本发明揭示了一种在织物厚度方向具有水分传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,包括采用多梳花边机编织的织物本体,所述织物本体包括纱线Y1、纱线Y2、纱线Y3三组纱线,织物本体上设有以纱线Y1走经平结构构成的外观层1,纱线Y3走衬纬结构构成的花型层2,纱线Y2走多针变化经平结构构成的贴肤层3,花型层2位于外观层1和贴肤层3之间,纱线Y1的导水能力大于纱线Y2的导水能力,使得外观层的导水能力大于贴肤层的导水能力,纱线Y3的导水能力与纱线Y2的导水能力不同,使得花型层的导水能力与贴肤层的导水能力不同,花型层在织物本体上的覆盖面积≥20%且小于100%,在织物本体上具有无花型区域4。花型层具有凹凸区域,作为花型结构,能够提升整体的视觉效果。As shown in Figures 1-5, the present invention discloses a sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the fabric thickness direction, including a fabric body woven by a multi-comb lace machine, the fabric body including three groups of yarns, namely, yarn Y1, yarn Y2 and yarn Y3, the fabric body is provided with an appearance layer 1 composed of a warp flat structure of yarn Y1, a pattern layer 2 composed of a weft insert structure of yarn Y3, and a skin-contacting layer 3 composed of a multi-needle variable warp flat structure of yarn Y2, the pattern layer 2 is located between the appearance layer 1 and the skin-contacting layer 3, the water conduction capacity of yarn Y1 is greater than the water conduction capacity of yarn Y2, so that the water conduction capacity of the appearance layer is greater than the water conduction capacity of the skin-contacting layer, the water conduction capacity of yarn Y3 is different from the water conduction capacity of yarn Y2, so that the water conduction capacity of the pattern layer is different from the water conduction capacity of the skin-contacting layer, the coverage area of the pattern layer on the fabric body is ≥20% and less than 100%, and there is a non-patterned area 4 on the fabric body. The pattern layer has a concave-convex area, which, as a pattern structure, can enhance the overall visual effect.

通过选择不同导水能力的纱线Y1、纱线Y2和纱线Y3,即可编织构成不同导水能力的外观层、贴肤层、花型层,纱线的导水能力直接决定了相应层的导水能力。通过不同导水能力的纱线Y3,从而编织得到不同导水能力的花型层,花型层处于外观层和贴肤层之间的区域,因此,不同导水能力的花型层,对于水分的传递会形成不同的作用,从而产生不同的水分传导效果。By selecting yarns Y1, Y2 and Y3 with different water conductivity, the appearance layer, skin-contacting layer and pattern layer with different water conductivity can be woven. The water conductivity of the yarn directly determines the water conductivity of the corresponding layer. By using yarns Y3 with different water conductivity, pattern layers with different water conductivity can be woven. The pattern layer is located in the area between the appearance layer and the skin-contacting layer. Therefore, pattern layers with different water conductivity will have different effects on the transfer of water, thereby producing different water conduction effects.

下面对于外观层、贴肤层、花型层的不同导水能力的比值来进行阐述不同的导水性能。The different water conduction properties are explained below by using the ratios of the different water conduction capacities of the appearance layer, the skin-contacting layer, and the pattern layer.

所述纱线Y1和纱线Y2的导水能力的比值大于等于2,即外观层和贴肤层的导水能力的比设为K1:K2≥2,此时外观层的导水能力远大于贴肤层的导水能力,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向无花型区域、外观层传导的单向导湿结构,贴肤层上的水份会快速的经无花型区域向外观层传导并最终排出,即在无花型区域实现了单向导湿的功能。The ratio of the water conductivity of the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 is greater than or equal to 2, that is, the ratio of the water conductivity of the appearance layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to K1:K2≥2. At this time, the water conductivity of the appearance layer is much greater than that of the skin-contacting layer, forming a unidirectional moisture-conducting structure in which the moisture of the skin-contacting layer is conducted from the skin-contacting layer to the pattern-free area and the appearance layer. The moisture on the skin-contacting layer will be quickly conducted to the appearance layer through the pattern-free area and finally discharged, that is, the unidirectional moisture-conducting function is realized in the pattern-free area.

所述纱线Y3和纱线Y2的导水能力的比值大于等于2,并且纱线Y1和纱线Y3的导水能力比值大于等于1,相应的花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为K3:K2≥2,并且且外观层和花型层的导水能力比设为K1:K3≥1,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向花型层、外观层传导的单向导湿结构。花型层的导水能力远大于贴肤层,而外观层的导水能力稍大于花型层,因此,贴肤层上的水分会有序的先经花型层后再经外观层导出。The ratio of the water conductivity of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y2 is greater than or equal to 2, and the ratio of the water conductivity of the yarn Y1 to the yarn Y3 is greater than or equal to 1. The corresponding water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to K3:K2≥2, and the water conductivity ratio of the appearance layer and the pattern layer is set to K1:K3≥1, forming a unidirectional moisture-conducting structure in which the moisture of the skin-contacting layer is conducted from the skin-contacting layer to the pattern layer and the appearance layer. The water conductivity of the pattern layer is much greater than that of the skin-contacting layer, while the water conductivity of the appearance layer is slightly greater than that of the pattern layer. Therefore, the moisture on the skin-contacting layer will be orderly discharged first through the pattern layer and then through the appearance layer.

所述纱线Y3和纱线Y2的导水能力的比值设为小于0.5,相应的花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为K3:K2<0.5,花型层的导水能力远小于贴肤层的导水能力,则贴肤层的水分难以传导到花型层,使得花型层形成为阻断贴肤层水分向外观层传导的水分阻断结构,水分只能从无花型区域直接传导到外观层排出。The ratio of the water conductivity of the yarn Y3 and the yarn Y2 is set to be less than 0.5, and the corresponding water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin layer is set to K3:K2<0.5. The water conductivity of the pattern layer is much smaller than that of the skin layer, and the moisture of the skin layer is difficult to be transferred to the pattern layer, so that the pattern layer forms a moisture blocking structure that blocks the conduction of moisture from the skin layer to the appearance layer, and the moisture can only be directly transferred from the non-pattern area to the appearance layer for discharge.

所述纱线Y3和纱线Y2的导水能力的比值范围在0.5-1之间,相应的花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为0.5≤K3:K2<1,将花型层和贴肤层的导水能力设为比较接近的范围,并且是花型层和导水能力稍小于贴肤层,贴肤层的水分能够传导到花型层。花型层形成的凹凸结构,增加了传导到花型层的水分与空气的接触面积,使水分可以快速蒸发,从而实现贴肤层干爽、吸湿排汗功能。The ratio of the water conductivity of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y2 is between 0.5 and 1, and the corresponding water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to 0.5≤K3:K2<1, and the water conductivity of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to a relatively close range, and the water conductivity of the pattern layer is slightly smaller than that of the skin-contacting layer, and the moisture of the skin-contacting layer can be conducted to the pattern layer. The concave-convex structure formed by the pattern layer increases the contact area between the moisture conducted to the pattern layer and the air, so that the moisture can evaporate quickly, thereby achieving the dryness and moisture absorption and sweat-wicking function of the skin-contacting layer.

所述纱线Y3和纱线Y2的导水能力的比值设在1-2之间,相应的花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为1≤K3:K2<2,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向花型层、外观层的差别化传递结构,水分由内向外进行差别化传递。水分由内向外进行差别化传递,实现了织物的梯度性单向导湿功能,且人体在出汗后因花型吸水程度不一致而呈现的颜色深浅不一的视觉效果。The ratio of the water conductivity of the yarn Y3 to the yarn Y2 is set between 1 and 2, and the corresponding water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to 1≤K3:K2<2, forming a differentiated transfer structure of the skin-contacting layer moisture from the skin-contacting layer to the pattern layer and the appearance layer, and the moisture is differentially transferred from the inside to the outside. The differential transfer of moisture from the inside to the outside realizes the gradient unidirectional moisture conduction function of the fabric, and the visual effect of different color depths is presented due to the inconsistent degree of water absorption of the pattern after sweating.

所述织物本体还包括纱线Y4,该纱线Y4为氨纶丝,走衬纬结构形成收缩层,为整个织物本体提供拉伸性能。The fabric body also includes yarn Y4, which is spandex yarn and has a weft insertion structure to form a shrinkage layer, thereby providing stretchability for the entire fabric body.

所述构成外观层的纱线Y1的组织结构为两针经平结构,其垫纱数码为1-2/1-0//;构成贴肤层的纱线Y2的组织结构为变化经平结构,其垫纱数码为1-0/2-3//;构成花型层的组织结构为衬纬结构,其基本组织结构垫纱数码为0-0/1-1//。The weave structure of the yarn Y1 constituting the appearance layer is a two-needle warp plain structure, and its inlay yarn number is 1-2/1-0//; the weave structure of the yarn Y2 constituting the skin-contacting layer is a variable warp plain structure, and its inlay yarn number is 1-0/2-3//; the weave structure constituting the pattern layer is a weft lining structure, and its basic weave structure inlay yarn number is 0-0/1-1//.

所述纱线Y4的组织结构为衬纬结构,其单次横移最大针数为5针,其优选垫纱数码为1-1/0-0//。The organizational structure of the yarn Y4 is a weft-inserted structure, the maximum number of needles for a single transverse shift is 5 needles, and the preferred inlay yarn number is 1-1/0-0//.

所述Y1为长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间,纱线Y1的DPF<0.6, 设为PES 75D/144F SD DTY。The Y1 is a filament or a composite yarn with a denier between 20-150D. The DPF of the yarn Y1 is less than 0.6, and is set to PES 75D/144F SD DTY.

所述纱线Y2为长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间,Y2的DPF>1,优选PES 50D/48FSD DTY。The yarn Y2 is a filament or a composite yarn, with a denier between 20-150D, a DPF of Y2>1, and preferably PES 50D/48FSD DTY.

所述纱线Y3为长丝或复合纱,旦数在40-840D之间。The yarn Y3 is a filament or a composite yarn, and the denier is between 40-840D.

对于纱线Y1、纱线Y2、纱线Y3的导水能力,根据现有产品直接选购即可,对于各类型的同种纱线,只需要导水能力满足要求即可。As for the water conductivity of yarn Y1, yarn Y2, and yarn Y3, they can be directly selected based on existing products. For the same type of yarn, it only needs the water conductivity to meet the requirements.

通过设置不同导水能力的纱线Y3,从而使得织物形成不同的导水能力。By arranging the yarns Y3 with different water-conducting capabilities, the fabric can have different water-conducting capabilities.

所述织物采用织针密度为每英寸14-28个的花边机编织而成,具体的生产步骤包括:The fabric is woven by a lace machine with a needle density of 14-28 per inch, and the specific production steps include:

1.工艺设计 根据产品设想要求设计花稿,并根据花稿进行工艺设计、制作工艺单。1. Process design: Design the pattern draft according to the product requirements, and carry out process design and make process sheets based on the pattern draft.

2.备料 根据工艺要求合理选择织机及所用的纱线后,由整经操作工按照工艺单要求将原料备到盘头上,花梳所用的纱线按照工艺单要求备料到筒子上。2. Material preparation After selecting the loom and the yarn to be used according to the process requirements, the warping operator will prepare the raw materials on the bobbin according to the requirements of the process sheet, and the yarn used for the pattern comb will be prepared on the bobbin according to the requirements of the process sheet.

3.穿纱 地梳盘头穿到对应的梳栉的导纱针上,花梳纱线的筒子按照工艺单以及梳栉排列表,经过弹力片穿到对应的梳栉的导纱针上。3. Yarn threading: The ground comb disc head is threaded onto the yarn guide needle of the corresponding comb bar, and the bobbin of the pattern comb yarn is threaded onto the yarn guide needle of the corresponding comb bar through the elastic sheet according to the process sheet and the comb bar arrangement table.

4.调节张力及开机 所有的纱线按照要求穿纱完后挂出布头,再根据设计要求及机上实际情况调节各套盘头、各个花梳筒子的纱线张力,保证其在合理的范围之内,再检查是否还有其他的问题,全部排除后即可开机编织。4. Adjust the tension and start the machine. After all the yarns are threaded as required, hang the cloth ends. Then adjust the yarn tension of each set of reels and each comb bobbin according to the design requirements and the actual situation on the machine to ensure that it is within a reasonable range. Then check whether there are other problems. After all problems are eliminated, you can start weaving.

5.后处理工序 : 平幅水洗→预定型→溢流染色→后整理。5. Post-processing process: open width washing → pre-setting → overflow dyeing → finishing.

实施案例Implementation Cases

1.花边机所用的纱线整经。1. Warping of yarn used in lace machines.

(1)长丝和复合丝的整经:(1) Warping of filament and composite yarn:

整经机机型:Karl Mayer DS 21/30 NC-2,消极式送纱。Warping machine type: Karl Mayer DS 21/30 NC-2, negative yarn feeding.

整经温度:23℃。Warping temperature: 23℃.

整经湿度:65%。Warping humidity: 65%.

车间在上述温湿度的条件下,设置整经工艺参数,并且根据实际情况考虑是否对纱线做加整经油处理。Under the above-mentioned temperature and humidity conditions, the workshop sets the warping process parameters and considers whether to add warping oil to the yarn according to the actual situation.

(2)氨纶整经:(2) Spandex warping:

整经机机型:Karl Mayer DSE-H21/30 NC-2,消极式送纱。Warping machine model: Karl Mayer DSE-H21/30 NC-2, negative yarn feeding.

整经温度:24℃。Warping temperature: 24℃.

整经湿度:78%。Warping humidity: 78%.

车间在上述温湿度的条件下,设置整经工艺参数。The workshop sets the warping process parameters under the above temperature and humidity conditions.

2. 织造2. Weaving

机器型号:广州霏鸿后贾卡平板经编机FHJ83/1B。Machine model: Guangzhou Feihong rear jacquard flat bed warp knitting machine FHJ83/1B.

机号:24。Machine number:24.

3.穿纱方式以及纱线的选用。3. Yarn threading method and yarn selection.

成圈梳栉Y1:满穿,PES 75D/144F SD DTY。Looping bar Y1: fully worn, PES 75D/144F SD DTY.

成圈梳栉Y2:满穿,PES 50D/48F SD DTY。Looping bar Y2: fully worn, PES 50D/48F SD DTY.

花纱梳栉Y3:根据设计需要选纱、穿纱。Pattern yarn comb Y3: select yarn and thread yarn according to design requirements.

衬纬梳栉Y4:满穿,PU 70D。Weft inserting guide bar Y4: full wear, PU 70D.

后处理工序: 平幅水洗→预定型→溢流染色→后整理。Post-processing steps: open width washing → pre-setting → overflow dyeing → finishing.

需要说明的是,以上仅为本发明的优选实施例而已,并不用于限制本发明,尽管参照实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明,对于本领域的技术人员来说,其依然可以对前述实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改,或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换,但是凡在本发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。It should be noted that the above are only preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the embodiments, those skilled in the art can still modify the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments or make equivalent substitutions for some of the technical features therein. However, any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1.一种水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,包括采用多梳花边机编织的织物本体,其特征在于,所述织物本体包括纱线Y1、纱线Y2、纱线Y3至少三组纱线,织物本体上设有以纱线Y1走经平结构构成的外观层,纱线Y3走衬纬结构构成的花型层,纱线Y2走多针变化经平结构构成的贴肤层,花型层位于外观层和贴肤层之间,纱线Y1的导水能力大于纱线Y2的导水能力,使得外观层的导水能力大于贴肤层的导水能力,纱线Y3的导水能力与纱线Y2的导水能力不同,使得花型层的导水能力与贴肤层的导水能力不同,花型层在织物本体上的覆盖面积≥20%且小于100%,在织物本体上具有无花型区域,所述外观层和贴肤层的导水能力的比设为K1:K2≥2,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向无花型区域、外观层传导的单向导湿结构;构成外观层的纱线Y1的组织结构为两针经平结构且垫纱数码为1-2/1-0//。1. A sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric, comprising a fabric body woven by a multi-comb lace machine, characterized in that the fabric body comprises at least three groups of yarns, namely, yarn Y1, yarn Y2 and yarn Y3, the fabric body is provided with an appearance layer composed of a warp flat structure of yarn Y1, a pattern layer composed of a weft insert structure of yarn Y3, and a skin-contacting layer composed of a multi-needle warp flat structure of yarn Y2, the pattern layer is located between the appearance layer and the skin-contacting layer, the water conduction capacity of yarn Y1 is greater than that of yarn Y2, so that the water conduction capacity of the appearance layer is greater than that of the skin-contacting layer The water conductivity of the skin layer, the water conductivity of the yarn Y3 is different from that of the yarn Y2, so that the water conductivity of the pattern layer is different from that of the skin layer, the coverage area of the pattern layer on the fabric body is ≥20% and less than 100%, and there is a non-patterned area on the fabric body, and the water conductivity ratio of the appearance layer and the skin layer is set to K1:K2≥2, forming a unidirectional moisture-conducting structure in which the moisture of the skin layer is conducted from the skin layer to the non-patterned area and the appearance layer; the organizational structure of the yarn Y1 constituting the appearance layer is a two-needle warp flat structure and the padding yarn number is 1-2/1-0//. 2.根据权利要求1所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为K3:K2≥2且外观层和花型层的导水能力比设为K1:K3≥1,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向花型层、外观层传导的单向导湿结构。2. The sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that the water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to K3:K2≥2, and the water conductivity ratio of the appearance layer and the pattern layer is set to K1:K3≥1, forming a unidirectional moisture-conducting structure in which moisture in the skin-contacting layer is conducted from the skin-contacting layer toward the pattern layer and the appearance layer. 3.根据权利要求1所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为K3:K2<0.5,使得花型层形成为阻断贴肤层水分向外观层传导的水分阻断结构。3. The sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that the water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to K3:K2<0.5, so that the pattern layer forms a moisture blocking structure that blocks the conduction of moisture from the skin-contacting layer to the appearance layer. 4.根据权利要求1所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为0.5≤K3:K2<1,使得花型层形成水分蒸发结构层。4. The sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the water conduction capacity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to 0.5≤K3:K2<1, so that the pattern layer forms a water evaporation structural layer. 5.根据权利要求1所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述花型层和贴肤层的导水能力比设为1≤K3:K2<2,形成贴肤层水分从贴肤层朝向花型层、外观层的差别化传递结构,水分由内向外进行差别化传递。5. The sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that the water conductivity ratio of the pattern layer and the skin-contacting layer is set to 1≤K3:K2<2, forming a differentiated transfer structure of moisture in the skin-contacting layer from the skin-contacting layer to the pattern layer and the appearance layer, and the moisture is differentially transferred from the inside to the outside. 6.根据权利要求5所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述织物本体还包括纱线Y4,该纱线Y4为氨纶丝,走衬纬结构形成收缩层。6. The sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 5 is characterized in that the fabric body also includes yarn Y4, which is spandex yarn and has a weft-inserted structure to form a shrinkage layer. 7.根据权利要求6所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y4的组织结构为衬纬结构,其单次横移最大针数为5针。7. The sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 6 is characterized in that the organizational structure of the yarn Y4 is a weft-inserted structure, and the maximum number of needles for a single lateral shift is 5 needles. 8.根据权利要求7所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述Y1为长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间,纱线Y1的DPF<0.6,设为PES 75D/144FSD DTY。8. The sports lace fabric with adjustable moisture conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that the Y1 is a filament or composite yarn with a denier between 20-150D, the DPF of the yarn Y1 is less than 0.6, and is set to PES 75D/144FSD DTY. 9.根据权利要求8所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y2为长丝或复合纱,旦数在20-150D之间,Y2的DPF>1。9. The sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that the yarn Y2 is a filament or a composite yarn with a denier between 20-150D, and the DPF of Y2 is greater than 1. 10.根据权利要求9所述的水分在织物厚度方向的传导可调节的运动蕾丝织物,其特征在于,所述纱线Y3为长丝或复合纱,旦数在40-840D之间。10. The sports lace fabric with adjustable water conduction in the thickness direction of the fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that the yarn Y3 is a filament or a composite yarn with a denier between 40-840D.
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