CN111472080B - 一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN111472080B
CN111472080B CN202010217961.3A CN202010217961A CN111472080B CN 111472080 B CN111472080 B CN 111472080B CN 202010217961 A CN202010217961 A CN 202010217961A CN 111472080 B CN111472080 B CN 111472080B
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胡振平
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Jiaxing Shibo Textile Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,包括如下步骤:A大肚纱的制备、B圈圈纱的纺制、C复合圈圈纱的纺制、D面料的织造、E面料的染色。经纱使用采用花式捻线机用圈圈纱的纺制工艺制备复合圈圈纱,大肚纱作为芯纱、圈圈纱作为饰纱、亚麻纱作为固纱。本发明所涉及的一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,利用花式捻线工艺将麻纱、大肚纱、圈圈纱合股特殊风格的纱线增加面料的肌理变化,使得所制备的面料既能保持麻类面料的服用性能,并且染色时利用不同纤维对同一种染料吸色效果的不同,具有时装面料的时尚外观,成面料成品颜色变化丰富的设计效果。

Description

一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织面料生产技术领域,尤其是一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺。
背景技术
随着新型纺纱工艺的不断创新各式花式纱呈现了更加丰富的多样性,为新面料的开发和设计带来更多的肌理变化。麻纤维因其材质的特殊性很少在花式纱中被使用。常规的麻类产品产品在开发过程中也很难在风格中与花式纱融合。而我们公司主要是以时装类面料为主的麻类产品开发。
如果开发的面料定位于男士单西、女士外套要求面料肌理丰富、纹路清晰、层次分明。在产品开发的过程中我们如何既要保持麻类产品的服用性能也要拥有时装面料的时尚外观,并且能应对市场快速反应的能力。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,所制备的面料既能保持麻类面料的服用性能,并且还具有时装面料的时尚外观,成面料成品颜色变化丰富的设计效果。
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的目的是这样实现的:
本发明所涉及的一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,包括如下步骤:
A、大肚纱的制备:采用单通道后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置,前罗拉、中罗拉的速度不变,后罗拉变速;所制备的大肚纱为18Nm棉大肚纱,粗节线密度为细节线密度的2.1倍,粗节长度5cm,细节长度12cm;
B、圈圈纱的纺制:采用用花式捻线机纺制圈圈纱;所述圈圈纱是涤纶长丝作为芯纱和固纱、涤纶与腈纶白色毛条作为饰纱所组成;所述圈圈纱成品线密度为13Nm,圈圈密度为150个/米,圈圈直径为1.5mm;所述涤纶长丝为16tex黑色涤纶长丝;所述涤纶与腈纶白色毛条的细度为60tex;
C、复合圈圈纱的纺制:采用花式捻线机用圈圈纱的纺制工艺制备复合圈圈纱,细度为6Nm,捻度为200捻/米;所述的复合圈圈纱中大肚纱作为芯纱、圈圈纱作为饰纱、亚麻纱作为固纱;所述亚麻纱细度为21Nm;
复合圈圈纱的纺制工艺中,锭子转速为1200r/min,超喂率为1.4,前区牵伸为1.8倍,总牵伸为2.5倍,张力牵伸为1.2倍;
D、面料的织造:以复合圈圈纱作为经纱、6Nm的亚麻双股线作为纬纱,采用人字纹织物组织进行织造,经密为30根/10cm,纬密为27根/10cm;
E、面料的染色。
作为上述方案的进一步说明,步骤E中,包括按序进行的如下步骤:冷堆处理→水洗→浸轧染液→非水介质固色→皂洗→水洗→拉幅定型;冷堆处理工序中所使用的工作液中包括漆酶、果胶酶、精炼剂和染色碱剂;所述漆酶的浓度为5-10g/L,所述果胶酶的浓度为10-15g/L,所述精炼剂的浓度为10-15g/L,染色碱剂的浓度为3-5g/L。
作为上述方案的进一步说明,浸轧染液中所使用的染液中含有活性染料3-5%o.w.f、10-15g/L的渗透剂、30-50g/L的上色助剂;浸轧后的待液率为120-150%。
作为上述方案的进一步说明,所述上色助剂中含有10-20%的元明粉、5-8%的甲基丙烯酸、4-8%的硝酸锌、1-3%的有机酸络合剂、10-20%的羧甲基纤维素钠、2-5%的支链化异构醇醚。
作为上述方案的进一步说明,非水介质固色的温度为120-130℃,时间为2-3分钟。
作为上述方案的进一步说明,所述经纱包括第一经纱、第二经纱、第三经纱、第四经纱、第五经纱、第六经纱、第七经纱、第八经纱、第九经纱、第十经纱、第十一经纱、第十二经纱;所述纬纱包括第一纬纱、第二纬纱、第三纬纱、第四纬纱、第五纬纱、第六纬纱、第七纬纱、第八纬纱、第九纬纱、第十纬纱、第十一纬纱、第十二纬纱;
所述第一经纱、第二经纱、第三经纱、第四经纱、第五经纱、第六经纱组成第一循环,所述第七经纱、第八经纱、第九经纱、第十经纱、第十一经纱、第十二经纱组成第二循环;第一循环和第二循环的数量不小于4;
以纬纱为基准,所述第一经纱的浮沉规律为浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉;第二经纱的浮沉规律为沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉;第三经纱的浮沉规律为沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮;第四经纱的浮沉规律为浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮;第五经纱的浮沉规律为浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮;第六经纱的浮沉规律为浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮;第七经纱的浮沉规律为沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉;第八经纱的浮沉规律为沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉;第九经纱的浮沉规律为沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉;第十经纱的浮沉规律为浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉;第十一经纱的浮沉规律为浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮;第十二经纱的浮沉规律为沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮。
本发明的有益效果是:本发明所涉及的一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,利用花式捻线工艺将麻纱、大肚纱、圈圈纱合股特殊风格的纱线增加面料的肌理变化,使得所制备的面料既能保持麻类面料的服用性能,并且染色时利用不同纤维对同一种染料吸色效果的不同,具有时装面料的时尚外观,成面料成品颜色变化丰富的设计效果。
附图说明
图1是本发明所制备的人字纹面料的组织图;
图2是本发明中所使用的圈圈纱和复合圈圈纱的结构示意图;
图3是所制备面料的效果图。
图中标记说明如下:1-芯纱;2-饰纱;3-固纱;101-第一经纱;102-第二经纱;103-第三经纱;104-第四经纱;105-第五经纱;106-第六经纱;107-第七经纱;108-第八经纱;109-第九经纱;110-第十经纱;111-第十一经纱;112-第十二经纱;201-第一纬纱;202-第二纬纱;203-第三纬纱;204-第四纬纱;205-第五纬纱;206-第六纬纱;207-第七纬纱;208-第八纬纱;209-第九纬纱;210-第十纬纱;211-第十一纬纱;212-第十二纬纱。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体实施例对本发明进一步说明。
本发明所需要开发的面料定位于男士单西、女士外套要求面料肌理丰富、纹路清晰、层次分明。同时此面料在开发初期的目标是响应市场中的快速反应机制以染色的方式达成色纺花式纱的麻类面料效果。
在此开发设计的要求下,通过与多家花式纱工厂的沟通最终确定:1)以染色的工艺生产成品达成色纺花式纱面料的效果同时缩短面料生产周期为面料的快速反应提供可能;2)利用花式捻线工艺将麻纱、大肚纱、圈圈纱合股特殊风格的纱线增加面料的肌理变化;3)利用多组成分纺制圈圈纱为成品的色彩丰富性打下基础。
实施例一
结合图1至图3,对本实施例作详细说明。本实施例所涉及的一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,包括如下步骤:A大肚纱的制备、B圈圈纱的纺制、C复合圈圈纱的纺制、D面料的织造、E面料的染色。
在A大肚纱的制备中,是采用单通道后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置,前罗拉、中罗拉的速度不变,后罗拉变速;所制备的大肚纱为18Nm棉大肚纱,粗节线密度为细节线密度的2.1倍,粗节长度5cm,细节长度12cm。
大肚纱是竹节纱的一种,竹节纱生产装置有单通道后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置、单通道中后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置、双通道中后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置、双通道后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置、三通道后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置等。采用不同的装置可生产出颜色、风格、材质配比各异的竹节纱。在本实用新型中是采用单通道后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置。从面料的整体设计效果考虑希望选用单一组分排列规律的竹节纱。
在步骤B圈圈纱的纺制中,是采用用花式捻线机纺制圈圈纱。圈圈纱一般是采用三种纱线组成,承受主体张力和强力的芯纱,一般隐藏在花式纱的中心。以各种形态环绕在芯纱上体现圈圈纱外观特质的饰纱。与饰纱捻向相反却能将饰纱固定在芯纱上的固纱。详见图2。饰纱环绕在芯外外侧,所述固纱将饰纱与芯纱相固定,并且饰纱的捻向与固纱的捻向相反。按照开发设计思路结合圈圈纱的结构特性,在本发明中所涉及的圈圈纱是由涤纶长丝作为芯纱1和固纱3、涤纶与腈纶白色毛条作为饰纱2所组成。圈圈纱成品线密度为13Nm,圈圈密度为150个/米,圈圈直径为1.5mm;所述涤纶长丝为16tex黑色涤纶长丝;所述涤纶与腈纶白色毛条的细度为60tex。
在C复合圈圈纱的纺制中,是采用花式捻线机用圈圈纱的纺制工艺制备复合圈圈纱,细度为6Nm,捻度为200捻/米;所述的复合圈圈纱中大肚纱作为芯纱1、圈圈纱作为饰纱2、亚麻纱作为固纱3。亚麻纱细度为21Nm。
在复合圈圈纱的并制过程中并未如最初设计的那般形成复合圈圈的效果。而是意外的形成了具有小圈圈的大肚纱粗细效果,也是一种意外的收获。由于三种纱线均含有捻度在并制加工过程中不宜在施加更多的捻度以免影响后续的加工生产。经过生产实践并制的捻度在200捻/米时最合适,纱线不会因捻度过大而自捻,但是无法形成圈圈纱的效果。同时由于作为饰纱的圈圈纱线密度为13Nm比作为芯纱的大肚纱18Nm还要细也影响了圈圈效果的形成。
最终确定的复合圈圈纱的纺制工艺中,锭子转速为1200r/min,超喂率为1.4,前区牵伸为1.8倍,总牵伸为2.5倍,张力牵伸为1.2倍,采用上述工艺所制备的复合圈圈纱的风格和品质最为稳定。
在步骤D面料的织造中,是以复合圈圈纱作为经纱、6Nm的亚麻双股线作为纬纱,采用人字纹织物组织进行织造,经密为30根/10cm,纬密为27根/10cm;
所涉及的人字纹织物组织,具体的,经纱包括第一经纱101、第二经纱102、第三经纱103、第四经纱104、第五经纱105、第六经纱106、第七经纱107、第八经纱108、第九经纱109、第十经纱110、第十一经纱111、第十二经纱112。纬纱包括第一纬纱201、第二纬纱202、第三纬纱203、第四纬纱204、第五纬纱205、第六纬纱206、第七纬纱207第八纬纱208、第九纬纱209、第十纬纱210、第十一纬纱211、第十二纬纱212。所涉及的面料在织造完成后需要经过染色。
第一经纱101、第二经纱102、第三经纱103、第四经纱104、第五经纱105、第六经纱106组成第一循环,第七经纱107、第八经纱108、第九经纱109、第十经纱110、第十一经纱111、第十二经纱112组成第二循环;第一循环和第二循环的数量不小于4。在本实用新型第一循环和第二循环的数量均为4,亦可以5或者更多。
具体的经纱纬纱交织规律:以纬纱为基准,第一经纱101的浮沉规律为浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉;第二经纱102的浮沉规律为沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉;第三经纱103的浮沉规律为沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮;第四经纱104的浮沉规律为浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮;第五经纱105的浮沉规律为浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮;第六经纱106的浮沉规律为浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮;第七经纱107的浮沉规律为沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉;第八经纱108的浮沉规律为沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉;第九经纱109的浮沉规律为沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉;第十经纱110的浮沉规律为浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉;第十一经纱111的浮沉规律为浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮;第十二经纱112的浮沉规律为沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮。
在步骤E面料的染色中,包括按序进行的如下步骤:冷堆处理→水洗→浸轧染液→非水介质固色→皂洗→水洗→拉幅定型;冷堆处理工序中所使用的工作液中包括漆酶、果胶酶、精炼剂和染色碱剂;所述漆酶的浓度为5-10g/L,所述果胶酶的浓度为10-15g/L,所述精炼剂的浓度为10-15g/L,染色碱剂的浓度为3-5g/L。
浸轧染液中所使用的染液中含有活性染料3-5%o.w.f、10-15g/L的渗透剂、30-50g/L的上色助剂;浸轧后的待液率为120-150%。上色助剂中含有10-20%的元明粉、5-8%的甲基丙烯酸、4-8%的硝酸锌、1-3%的有机酸络合剂、10-20%的羧甲基纤维素钠、2-5%的支链化异构醇醚。非水介质固色的温度为120-130℃,时间为2-3分钟。在有机酸络合剂可与亚麻纤维相结合,可提高该纤维对染料的吸附力,可使得色牢度提高。而且羧甲基纤维素钠可提高棉纤维对于染料的吸队力,可提高棉纤维的色牢度。并且支链化异构醇醚可提高对涤纶纤维对染料的吸附力,可提高涤纶纤维的色牢度。并且由于此三种原料对于三种纤维对于染料的吸附效果不同,可使得该面料上的颜色具有深浅的区别,为该面料成品具有色彩丰富性。
实施例二
本实施例本实施例所涉及的一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,与实施例一的区别在于:
在步骤E面料的染色中,漆酶的浓度为5-10g/L,所述果胶酶的浓度为10-15g/L,所述精炼剂的浓度为10-15g/L,染色碱剂的浓度为3-5g/L。
浸轧染液中所使用的染液中含有活性染料3-5%o.w.f、10-15g/L的渗透剂、30-50g/L的上色助剂;浸轧后的待液率为120-150%。上色助剂中含有10-20%的元明粉、5-8%的甲基丙烯酸、4-8%的硝酸锌、1-3%的有机酸络合剂、10-20%的羧甲基纤维素钠、2-5%的支链化异构醇醚。非水介质固色的温度为120-130℃,时间为2-3分钟。
对实施例一及实施例二所制备的面料进行同色性和色牢度进行测试。
同色性测试是指使用Datacolor SF600分光度仪测定2种纤维染色后的颜色指标L,用明差度△L表示同色性,△L小,表示同色性越好。在本发明中
△L=L涤纶-L亚麻;
具体的测试结构见下表:
L涤纶 L亚麻 △L
实施例一 50.64 39.37 11.27
实施例二 48.32 35.16 13.16
可见实施例一及实施例二所制备的面料的同色性较差,即在面料中不同颜色表现出不同的颜色浓度,可使得面料具有独特的风格。
对实施例一及实施例二所涉及的面料进行色牢度测试。根据国家检测标准GB18401-2010《国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范》C类以及GB/T2665-2017《女西服、大衣》的检测方法和要求此面料的检测结果详见下表。
在耐皂洗牢度的测试中是采用方法A(1)(洗涤温度40℃,洗涤时间30分钟,5g/L皂片洗涤剂)。
由上表可以看出,实施例一及实施例二所制备的面料在耐汗渍色牢度、耐摩色牢度、耐皂洗牢度方面具有较高的等级。经过检测此方法生产的面料在色牢度方面复合各项服用面料的要求。为我公司生产花式类面料争取了市场赢得应对品牌商要求面料适应快速反应机制的先机。
以上详细描述了本发明的较佳具体实施例。应当理解,本领域的普通技术人员无需创造性劳动就可以根据本发明的构思做出诸多修改和变化。因此,凡本技术领域中技术人员依本发明的构思在现有技术的基础上通过逻辑分析、推理或者有限的实验可以得到的技术方案,皆应在由权利要求书所确定的保护范围内。

Claims (3)

1.一种亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,其特征是,包括如下步骤:
A、大肚纱的制备:采用单通道后罗拉喂入竹节纱装置,前罗拉、中罗拉的速度不变,后罗拉变速;所制备的大肚纱为18Nm棉大肚纱,粗节线密度为细节线密度的2.1倍,粗节长度5cm,细节长度12cm;
B、圈圈纱的纺制:采用用花式捻线机纺制圈圈纱;所述圈圈纱是涤纶长丝作为芯纱(1)和固纱(3)、涤纶与腈纶白色毛条作为饰纱(2)所组成;所述圈圈纱成品线密度为13Nm,圈圈密度为150个/米,圈圈直径为1.5mm;所述涤纶长丝为16tex黑色涤纶长丝;所述涤纶与腈纶白色毛条的细度为60tex;
C、复合圈圈纱的纺制:采用花式捻线机用圈圈纱的纺制工艺制备复合圈圈纱,细度为6Nm,捻度为200捻/米;所述的复合圈圈纱中大肚纱作为芯纱(1)、圈圈纱作为饰纱(2)、亚麻纱作为固纱(3);所述亚麻纱细度为21Nm;
复合圈圈纱的纺制工艺中,锭子转速为1200r/min,超喂率为1.4,前区牵伸为1.8倍,总牵伸为2.5倍,张力牵伸为1.2倍;
D、面料的织造:以复合圈圈纱作为经纱、6Nm的亚麻双股线作为纬纱,采用人字纹织物组织进行织造,经密为30根/10cm,纬密为27根/10cm;
E、面料的染色;
步骤E中,包括按序进行的如下步骤:冷堆处理→水洗→浸轧染液→非水介质固色→皂洗→水洗→拉幅定型;冷堆处理工序中所使用的工作液中包括漆酶、果胶酶、精炼剂和染色碱剂;所述漆酶的浓度为5-10g/L,所述果胶酶的浓度为10-15g/L,所述精炼剂的浓度为10-15g/L,染色碱剂的浓度为3-5g/L;
浸轧染液中所使用的染液中含有活性染料3-5%o.w.f、10-15g/L的渗透剂、30-50g/L的上色助剂;浸轧后的待液率为120-150%;
所述上色助剂中含有10-20%的元明粉、5-8%的甲基丙烯酸、4-8%的硝酸锌、1-3%的有机酸络合剂、10-20%的羧甲基纤维素钠、2-5%的支链化异构醇醚。
2.根据权利要求1所述的亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,其特征是,非水介质固色的温度为120-130℃,时间为2-3分钟。
3.根据权利要求1所述的亚麻混纺花式纱人字纹面料的生产工艺,其特征是,所述经纱包括第一经纱(101)、第二经纱(102)、第三经纱(103)、第四经纱(104)、第五经纱(105)、第六经纱(106)、第七经纱(107)、第八经纱(108)、第九经纱(109)、第十经纱(110)、第十一经纱(111)、第十二经纱(112);所述纬纱包括第一纬纱(201)、第二纬纱(202)、第三纬纱(203)、第四纬纱(204)、第五纬纱(205)、第六纬纱(206)、第七纬纱(207)、第八纬纱(208)、第九纬纱(209)、第十纬纱(210)、第十一纬纱(211)、第十二纬纱(212);
所述第一经纱(101)、第二经纱(102)、第三经纱(103)、第四经纱(104)、第五经纱(105)、第六经纱(106)组成第一循环,所述第七经纱(107)、第八经纱(108)、第九经纱(109)、第十经纱(110)、第十一经纱(111)、第十二经纱(112)组成第二循环;第一循环和第二循环的数量不小于4;
以纬纱为基准,所述第一经纱(101)的浮沉规律为浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉;第二经纱(102)的浮沉规律为沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉;第三经纱(103)的浮沉规律为沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮;第四经纱(104)的浮沉规律为浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮;第五经纱(105)的浮沉规律为浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮;第六经纱(106)的浮沉规律为浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮-浮-浮-浮-沉-沉-浮;第七经纱(107)的浮沉规律为沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉;第八经纱(108)的浮沉规律为沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉;第九经纱(109)的浮沉规律为沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉;第十经纱(110)的浮沉规律为浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉;第十一经纱(111)的浮沉规律为浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮;第十二经纱(112)的浮沉规律为沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮-沉-沉-沉-沉-浮-浮。
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