CN109695089A - A kind of design method and its production technology of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric - Google Patents

A kind of design method and its production technology of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric Download PDF

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CN109695089A
CN109695089A CN201811631015.2A CN201811631015A CN109695089A CN 109695089 A CN109695089 A CN 109695089A CN 201811631015 A CN201811631015 A CN 201811631015A CN 109695089 A CN109695089 A CN 109695089A
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yarn
fabric
cotton
polyester
bamboo
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瞿建新
姜生
陈群
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/042Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from natural material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/10Bamboo
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel

Abstract

The invention discloses the design methods and its production technology of a kind of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, the present invention is using the polyester fiber in flaxen fiber substitution polyester-cotton fabric weft yarn, with the cotton fiber in bamboo fibre substitute warp, develop a novel bamboo/polyester cotton/fiber crops shirt fabric, it is poor that the intrinsic permeability of traditional polyester-cotton fabric can thoroughly be solved, there is feeling of oppression and heat when wearing, and generate the inherent shortcomings such as electrostatic, retain original well-pressed of fabric, performance attractive in appearance, and assign fabric splendid comfort, and uvioresistant, radiation protection, antibacterial bacteriostatic function, bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric becomes a fashion, it is beautiful, comfortable functional fabric, liked by the people.

Description

A kind of design method and its production technology of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric weaving fields, and in particular to a kind of design method and its production of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric Technique.
Background technique
Polyester-cotton shirt fabric, it is also known as really cool, it is well-pressed with its, beautiful, quick-drying washable, it is durable, once on the market Occupy great share, the widespread love of the people by each age group is eaten with the improvement of living standards, the people are no longer satisfied with Satisfying, it is dim to wear, the durable target for also no longer becoming people and preferentially selecting, polyester-cotton shirt fabric poor air permeability, and human body has when perspiring Feeling of oppression and heat can generate the intrinsic defect such as electrostatic, no longer be accepted by people, the share that polyester-cotton shirt fabric occupies on the market It reduces year by year, it is therefore, fine with the cotton in bamboo fibre substitute warp using the polyester fiber in flaxen fiber substitution polyester-cotton fabric weft yarn Dimension, develops a novel bamboo/polyester cotton/fiber crops shirt fabric, can thoroughly solve the intrinsic permeability of traditional polyester-cotton fabric Difference has feeling of oppression and heat, and generates the inherent shortcomings such as electrostatic when wearing, retain fabric original well-pressed, performance attractive in appearance, and assign The splendid comfort of fabric and uvioresistant, anti-radiation and antibacterial bacteria resistance function, bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric become a fashion, Beautiful, comfortable functional fabric, is liked by the people.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of setting for bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric Meter method and its production technology.
Technical solution: a kind of design method of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, the design method are as follows:
(1) selection of raw material: when this fabric design, warp and weft has selected two different yarns, and warp thread is 11.8tex's Bamboo washs mixed yarn, and weft yarn selects the cotton ramie blended spinning yarn of 14.6tex;
(2) comfort of fabric: polyester fiber accounts for 30% in this fabric, and bamboo fibre accounts for 30%, and cotton fiber accounts for 28%, and fiber crops are fine Dimension accounts for 12%, and the average regain of fabric reaches 7.54%;
(3) functionality of fabric: bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber have natural antibacterial, bacteria resistance function, the uvioresistant of bamboo fibre Function is 400 times of cotton fiber, can be effectively prevented ultraviolet ray burn skin;
(4) other performances of fabric: the conformal performance of polyester fiber is good;The dimensional stability of bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber Comparative superiority, and the glossiness of fiber is good, therefore bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, the property of well-pressed, performance attractive in appearance and polyester-cotton fabric Can be close, permeability, water vapour permeability will be much better than polyester-cotton fabric, and comfort property is splendid, there is no feeling of oppression and heat when human body is perspired, It is a fabric haveing excellent performance;
(5) by process optimization, improve yield and quality: bamboo washs mixed yarn, although thinner than ramie cotton yarn, yarn strength Height is used as warp thread, can be reduced broken end, conducive to the yield and quality for improving product;In cotton/hemp blended yarn, flaxen fiber cohesive force is poor, Sliding is easy to produce between fiber, thus yarn strength is low, is easy broken end;Flaxen fiber yarn simultaneously, filoplume is more, when being used as warp thread, Shed open is not easy clearly, cotton ramie blended spinning yarn is used as weft yarn, to reduce the production difficulty of fabric.
As optimization: the fabric specification is as follows: Fabric width 146.5cm, finished product is through close 512/10cm, finished product latitude Close 276/10cm;Fabric breadth 156.3cm, fabric is through close 480/10cm, 264/10cm of fabric filling density;Through crimp 9.1%, latitude weave shrinkage 4.1%, width shrinkage 6.3%, long shrinkage 4.3%, 154 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 163cm, ground group It knits every reed 3 to enter, the every reed 3 of side texture enters, and a meter Jing Chang 1.1, the comprehensive productions of page four, fabric tissue is plain weave.
As optimization: the warp thread raw material is 11.8tex bamboo/wash mixed yarn, blending ratio 50/50, and color has 4 kinds, A Expression zhang is blue, and B indicates that Borland color, C indicate that sea is blue, and D indicates bottle green, and color is arranged are as follows: 65A, 14C, 66A, 49D, 10A, 66B, 7A, 66B, 10A, 49D;One spends 158, middle A yarn, and 132, B yarn, 14, C yarn, 98, D yarn, one spends 402, full width 19 flowers, subtract first 128, subtract a color are as follows: and 13, A yarn, 66, B yarn, 49, D yarn, full width fabric total quantity of warps is 7510, 2989, middle A yarn, 2442, B yarn, 266, C yarn, wire gauze 1813, side yarn is identical with body warp, is not separately provided, directly benefit Use body warp.
As optimization: the weft yarn raw material is the cotton/hemp blended yarn of 14.6tex, and blending ratio is cotton 70%, flaxen fiber 30%, there are four types of color, a expression zhang is blue, and b indicates that Borland color, c indicate that Hai Lan is worked hard in glove with, and d indicates bottle green.Barry dyeing arrangement is suitable Sequence is 44a, 7c, 44a, 30d, 5a, 44b, 5a, 44b, 5a, 30d;In the flower circulation of weft yarn one, 103, a yarn, 88, b yarn, c yarn 7 Root, 60, d yarn, the flower recurring number of weft yarn one is 258.
A kind of production technology of the bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric according to, includes the following steps:
(1) winder: using GA014MD type bobbin-winding machine rewinding, and winder uses the technique of " low speed, small tension receiving coil protect elasticity ", Winder speed is set as 575m/min, bobbin-winding machine configuration is light, in, weigh three kinds of tension washers, when this fabric winder, selects " light " open Power washer;
(2) warping: using CGA114B-SM type beam warper warping, and " low velocity protects elasticity " technique is used when warping, Speed of beaming is determined as 600m/min, and channel wants bright and clean when warping, and when warping no longer carries out the setting of additional tension, and collective changes Cylinder, with the uniform of retention tab yarn tension;
Warping is calculated with axis: 2989, A yarn, being made into 5 warp beams, is 597*1+598*4 with axis;2442, B yarn, it is made into 4 Axis is 610*2+611*2 with axis;266, C yarn, individually at axis;1813, D yarn, 3 axis are made into, are 604*2+605*1 with axis;
(3) the sizing machine starching of GA301 type, formula of size sizing: are used are as follows: polyester starch 50%, PVA slurry 20%, Gu Body acrylic size 28%, wax disk(-sc) 2%, slurry viscosity 11-12S, 95 DEG C of slurry groove temperature;Sizing speed control is in 45-50m/ min;Slurry groove temperature is 95 DEG C;The rate of sizing controls between 10%-11%;Mud-jacking technology uses light mud-jacking technology after preceding weight, The pressure of preceding squeezing roller is 16kn, and the pressure of post jacking roller is 12kn;It is 50/50 that bamboo, which washs blending ratio, the official regain of yarn It is 6.2%, sized warp moisture regain controls between 5%-5.5%;
(4) gait: fabric tissue is plain weave, but radical is relatively more, when being woven using the heald frames of page two, negative shedding mechanism Spring be easy fatigue, cause to generate mechanical breakdown, thus to use page four it is comprehensive weave, sequence of gaiting is comprehensive along wearing for page four, steel The every reed 3 of reed enters;
(5) it weaves: being woven using GA708 type air-jet loom, loom speed 600r/min;
Opening time is 300 °, and for fabric through close big, it is clear to be conducive to shed open for the early opening process of selection;
Weft insertion technique: weft yarn beginning flying angle is set as 90 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, and weft yarn is actually reached angle control For system between 210 ° -230 °, the release time of gear yarn needle is 72 °, and main jet jet time is 68 ° -160 °, is sprayed using 8 groups of auxiliary Mouth, each group pilot jet jet time are followed successively by 68 ° -218 °, and 86 ° -136 °, 103 ° -153 °, 121 ° -171 °, 138 ° -188 °, 156 ° -216 °, 173 ° -230 °, 190 ° -300 °;
Whiff pressure: main jet pressure controls between 0.23Mpa-0.28Mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying control is in 0.28Mpa- Between 0.33Mpa, in actual production process, angle is actually reached according to weft yarn, adjusts whiff pressure, weft yarn angle of arrival earlier than 210 °, suitably turn whiff pressure down, weft yarn angle of arrival is later than 230 °, suitably tunes up whiff pressure;
Warp tension: fabric tissue is plain weave, through close bigger, warp tension control bigger than normal, and when actual production, upper machine Power is controlled in 150kg.
The utility model has the advantages that bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric prepared by the present invention, with the cotton in bamboo fibre substitution polyester-cotton fabric warp thread Fiber, the flexibility of bamboo fibre are better than cotton fiber, and glossiness is good, and the fabric woven has splendid drapability.Use flaxen fiber The polyester fiber in polyester-cotton fabric weft yarn, flaxen fiber good luster are substituted, moisture absorption is breathed freely, and is had cooling feeling when wearing, is summer fabric Ideal fibrous material.Bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, it is well-pressed, beautiful with polyester-cotton fabric, while it is splendid to impart fabric again Gas permeability, penetrability, can interrogate speed inhale human body generate sweat, keep the dry and comfortable of human body, will not as polyester-cotton fabric what kind of, dress When have feeling of oppression and heat, will not as pure cotton fabric what kind of, there is viscous people to feel after moisture absorption.Summer sweat is more, bacterium easy to breed, bamboo fibre All has the function of antibacterial bacteriostatic with flaxen fiber;When summer outdoor activities, sunshine is strong, is easy skin ambustion, and bamboo fibre and fiber crops are fine Dimension has UV resistance, anti-radiation effect, can permanently be effectively prevented skin ambustion.
When present invention production bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops color knits shirt fabric, it should be noted that the following: (1) bamboo fibre is more delicate, It wears no resistance, needs the synthetic fibers good with wearability blended, to improve the durability of fabric;(2) flaxen fiber cohesive force is poor, Fiber in yarn is easy to produce sliding, needs to interweave with other fiber blends, to improve the weaving performance of flaxen fiber yarn; (3) flaxen fiber class yarn, filoplume is more, and sizing cannot make filoplume submissive, and end breakage rate is high, is used as weft yarn, can reduce the life of fabric Produce difficulty;(4) channel that preparatory process will be passed through using " small tension receiving coil, protects elasticity at low velocity " as the basic principle of technique, yarn It wants bright and clean, reduces the damage to bamboo fibre to the greatest extent.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
Bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops four-in-one shirt fabric produced by the invention, it is fine with the cotton in bamboo fibre substitution polyester-cotton fabric warp thread Dimension is retained well-pressed, the beautiful excellent performance of polyester-cotton shirt fabric, is solved polyester-cotton blend with the polyester fiber in flaxen fiber substitute weft Fabric poor air permeability has the defect of feeling of oppression and heat when wearing, and assign the splendid comfort of fabric newly developed, excellent UV resistance, Radiation protection and antibacterial bacteriostatic function.
1. the design and development of product
1.1 product development
1.1.1 the selection of raw material: the main factor for influencing fabric performance is exactly kinds of fibers, the superiority of polyester-cotton fabric It with its inherent shortcoming is determined by the basic performance of polyester fiber.When fabric development, need more by reasonably selecting Kind fiber, makes its blended union according to a certain percentage, takes its advantage, improves defect, realizes and has complementary advantages in performance.This fabric When design, warp and weft has selected two different yarns, and the bamboo that warp thread is 11.8tex washs mixed yarn, and weft yarn selects 14.6tex's Cotton ramie blended spinning yarn.Bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric is compared with polyester-cotton fabric, and traditional polyester-cotton shirt fabric, filling yarn is to wash Silk/cotton blended yarn, the cotton fiber in polyester-cotton fabric warp thread are substituted with bamboo fibre, and the polyester fiber in weft yarn is substituted with flaxen fiber, exploitation Bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric out.
Polyester fiber with its intensity height, wear-resisting property is good, the fabric woven have the characteristics that it is well-pressed, beautiful, durable, Therefore in fabric development, warp thread selects 50% polyester fiber, it is therefore an objective to retain the original excellent performance of polyester-cotton fabric.Bamboo fibre It is a kind of regenerated celulose fibre, bamboo fibre intensity is high, and elasticity is good, official regain 12%, and the fabric drapability woven is good, It by the cotton fiber in traditional polyester-cotton fabric warp thread, is substituted with bamboo fibre, the well-pressed, beautiful of polyester-cotton fabric can be retained to the maximum extent Excellent performances such as sight, good stability of the dimension, and the permeability of bamboo fibre, water vapour permeability are superior, with polyester fiber it is blended after, The fabric woven can effectively solve the inherent shortcoming that polyester-cotton fabric permeability is poor, has feeling of oppression and heat.
In traditional polyester-cotton shirt fabric, terylene content is high, and fabric is well-pressed, beautiful, durable.But polyester fiber content Height will lead to the permeability decline of fabric, the comfort property of fabric severely impacted, with washing in flaxen fiber substitute weft Synthetic fibre fiber, flaxen fiber is rigidly big, there is the title for the fiber that can be breathed, and comfort property is superior, can absorb a large amount of moisture content in the short time, To the dry and comfortable advantageous of holding human body.
1.1.2 the comfort of fabric: occupation ratio of the various fibers in fabric influences the performance of fabric very big, needs Reasonably select occupation ratio of the various fibers in fabric.Polyester fiber accounts for 30% in this fabric, and bamboo fibre accounts for 30%, cotton fiber 28% is accounted for, flaxen fiber accounts for 12%, and this occupation ratio keeps the comfort property of fabric splendid, and the moisture pick-up properties of bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber is non- Chang Hao can interrogate speed and absorb the sweat that human body generates, and keep the dry and comfortable of human body, and the average regain of fabric has reached 7.54%, parent Skin performance is fabulous.
1.1.3 the functionality of fabric: the addition of bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber also imparts some special functions of fabric, summer Hot weather is easy to produce bacterium, causes skin to be disturbed to itch, and bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber have natural antibacterial, bacteria resistance function.Summer day According to strong, ultraviolet light is strong, is easy skin ambustion, and the anti-ultraviolet function of bamboo fibre is 400 times of cotton fiber, can be effectively Prevent ultraviolet ray burn skin.
1.1.4 other performances of fabric: the conformal performance of polyester fiber is good;The dimensional stability of bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber Also comparative superiority, and the glossiness of fiber is good, therefore bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, well-pressed, performance attractive in appearance and polyester-cotton fabric Similar performance, permeability, water vapour permeability will be much better than polyester-cotton fabric, and comfort property is splendid, and there is no sultry when human body is perspired Sense, is a fabric haveing excellent performance.
1.1.5 by process optimization, yield and quality is improved.Bamboo washs mixed yarn, although thinner than ramie cotton yarn, yarn strength Height is used as warp thread, can be reduced broken end, conducive to the yield and quality for improving product.In cotton/hemp blended yarn, flaxen fiber cohesive force is poor, Sliding is easy to produce between fiber, thus yarn strength is low, is easy broken end;Flaxen fiber yarn simultaneously, filoplume is more, when being used as warp thread, Shed open is not easy clearly.Cotton ramie blended spinning yarn is used as weft yarn, to reduce the production difficulty of fabric.
1.2 fabric specifications
Fabric width 146.5cm, finished product is through close 512/10cm, 276/10cm of finished product filling density.Fabric breadth 156.3cm, fabric is through close 480/10cm, 264/10cm of fabric filling density.Through crimp 9.1%, latitude weave shrinkage 4.1%, width contracting Rate 6.3%, long shrinkage 4.3%, 154 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 163cm, the every reed 3 of ground tissue enter, and the every reed 3 of side texture enters, One meter Jing Chang 1.1, the comprehensive productions of page four, fabric tissue is plain weave.
Warp thread raw material is 11.8tex bamboo/wash mixed yarn, blending ratio 50/50, and color has 4 kinds, and A indicates zhang blue, B table Show that Borland color, C indicate that sea is blue, D indicates bottle green, and color is arranged are as follows: 65A, 14C, 66A, 49D, 10A, 66B, 7A, 66B, 10A, 49D.One spends 158, middle A yarn, and 132, B yarn, 14, C yarn, 98, D yarn, one spends 402, and the flower of full width 19 subtracts first 128, Subtract a color are as follows: 13, A yarn, 66, B yarn, 49, D yarn, full width fabric total quantity of warps is 7510, wherein 2989, A yarn, B yarn 2442,266, C yarn, wire gauze 1813, side yarn is identical with body warp, is not separately provided, and directly utilizes body warp.
Weft yarn raw material is the cotton/hemp blended yarn of 14.6tex, and blending ratio is cotton 70%, and flaxen fiber 30%, there are four types of color, a Expression zhang is blue, and b indicates that Borland color, c indicate that Hai Lan is worked hard in glove with, and d indicates bottle green.Barry dyeing puts in order as 44a, 7c, 44a, 30d, 5a, 44b, 5a, 44b, 5a, 30d.In the flower circulation of weft yarn one, 103, a yarn, 88, b yarn, 7, c yarn, 60, d yarn, weft yarn One flower recurring number is 258.
2. production essentials
2.1 winders: using GA014MD type bobbin-winding machine rewinding, and warp thread is that 11.8tex bamboo washs mixed yarn, the strength of yarn compared with Height, but wear no resistance, polyester fiber is easy to produce electrostatic, according to the above feature, determines that winder uses " low speed, small tension receiving coil, guarantor The technique of elasticity ", winder speed are set as 575m/min, bobbin-winding machine configuration is light, in, weigh three kinds of tension washers, this fabric winder Shi Xuanyong " light " tension washer.
2.2 warpings: using CGA114B-SM type beam warper warping, and the characteristics of according to this fabric warp, when warping makes With " low velocity, protect elasticity " technique, speed of beaming is determined as 600m/min, and yarn is thinner, and bamboo fibre wears no resistance, and when warping is logical Road wants bright and clean, and the setting of additional tension, collective's creeling, with the uniform of retention tab yarn tension are no longer carried out when warping.
Warping is calculated with axis: 2989, A yarn, being made into 5 warp beams, is 597*1+598*4 with axis;2442, B yarn, it is made into 4 Axis is 610*2+611*2 with axis;266, C yarn, individually at axis;1813, D yarn, 3 axis are made into, are 604*2+605*1 with axis.
2.3 sizing: the sizing machine starching of GA301 type is used.Formula of size are as follows: polyester starch 50%, PVA slurry 20%, Gu Body acrylic size 28%, wax disk(-sc) 2%, slurry viscosity 11-12S, 95 DEG C of slurry groove temperature.
According to the similar principle to mix, warp thread is bamboo fibre and polyester fiber mixed yarn, and through close relatively high, according to this One feature selects mixed slurry, and polyester starch has very good adhesion to polyester fiber and bamboo fibre, but warp thread is thinner, The rate of sizing is again relatively high, and the serous coat of pure esterification starch is harder, therefore joined PVA slurry in formula.PVA slurry is to bamboo fibre Peacekeeping polyester fiber has excellent adhesion strength, and after PVA slurry is added, the good toughness of serous coat improves the weaving performance of sizing, But the desizing of PVA slurry is difficult, has pollution to environment, needs to control the usage amount of PVA slurry, and the ratio of PVA slurry is 20%.It knits For object through close bigger, adhesion when starching between yarn is more, joined 28% solid propenoic acid class slurry, solid third in the slurry Olefin(e) acid class slurry, leasing performance is good, is conducive to keep serous coat complete, has good adhesion strength to bamboo fibre and polyester fiber, and And desizing is easy, but the serous coat of acrylic size is soft, wears no resistance, dosage is also unsuitable big.Bamboo fibre wearability is poor, It joined 2% wax disk(-sc) in formula of size, to reduce the coefficient of friction of sizing, reduce the damage to bamboo fibre.
For sizing speed control in 45-50m/min, sizing speed should not be fast.Because through close big, adhesion is more when sizing, sizing Speed is fast, easily causes leasing broken end.
Mud-jacking technology is using mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, and the pressure of preceding squeezing roller is 16kn, and the pressure of post jacking roller is 12kn.Using this mud-jacking technology, it can take into account and be impregnated with and be coated, yarn can enhance and excellent wear-resisting property.
The rate of sizing controls between 10%-11%, and slurries are mixed slurry, and the rate of sizing will be lower than pure starch data, starching Rate is high, and yarn is easy embrittlement, causes brittle failure head, and the rate of sizing is low, and wearability can be poor, equally causes broken end.
Slurry groove temperature is 95 DEG C, and slurry temperature is high, and slurries impregnability is good, advantageous to the enhancing of single thread.
It is 50/50 that bamboo, which washs blending ratio, and the official regain of yarn is 6.2%, sized warp moisture regain control 5%-5.5% it Between.
2.4 gait: fabric tissue is plain weave, but radical is relatively more, when being woven using the heald frames of page two, negative shedding mechanism Spring be easy fatigue, cause to generate mechanical breakdown, thus to use page four it is comprehensive weave, sequence of gaiting is comprehensive along wearing for page four, steel The every reed 3 of reed enters.
2.5 weavings: it is woven using GA708 type air-jet loom, loom speed 600r/min;
Opening time is 300 °, and for fabric through close big, it is clear to be conducive to shed open for the early opening process of selection.
Back beam height is 0 scale.Plain cloth will generally use the high back rest, this fabric is through close height, but filling density is smaller, root According to this feature, determines and use the alto back rest.Back rest position is low, and top line tension is big, and shed open is easy clear;The back rest Low, tightening weft resistance is big, and weft yarn is difficult to urgent.But since this pick count is small, the lower back rest can be used.
Weft insertion technique: weft yarn beginning flying angle is set as 90 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, and weft yarn is actually reached angle control For system between 210 ° -230 °, the release time of gear yarn needle is 72 °, and main jet jet time is 68 ° -160 °, is sprayed using 8 groups of auxiliary Mouth, each group pilot jet jet time are followed successively by 68 ° -218 °, and 86 ° -136 °, 103 ° -153 °, 121 ° -171 °, 138 ° -188 °, 156 ° -216 °, 173 ° -230 °, 190 ° -300 °.
Whiff pressure: main jet pressure controls between 0.23Mpa-0.28Mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying control is in 0.28Mpa- Between 0.33Mpa, in actual production process, angle is actually reached according to weft yarn, adjusts whiff pressure, weft yarn angle of arrival earlier than 210 °, suitably turn whiff pressure down, weft yarn angle of arrival is later than 230 °, suitably tunes up whiff pressure.
Warp tension: fabric tissue is plain weave, through close bigger, warp tension control bigger than normal, and when actual production, upper machine Power is controlled in 150kg or so.
Bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric prepared by the present invention, with the cotton fiber in bamboo fibre substitution polyester-cotton fabric warp thread, bamboo is fine The flexibility of dimension is better than cotton fiber, and glossiness is good, and the fabric woven has splendid drapability.Polyester-cotton blend face is substituted with flaxen fiber Expect the polyester fiber in weft yarn, flaxen fiber good luster, moisture absorption is breathed freely, and is had cooling feeling when wearing, is the ideal fiber of summer fabric Material.Bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, it is well-pressed, beautiful with polyester-cotton fabric, while the splendid gas permeability of fabric, thoroughly is imparted again It is moist, can interrogate speed inhale human body generate sweat, keep the dry and comfortable of human body, will not as polyester-cotton fabric what kind of, have feeling of oppression and heat when wearing, Will not as pure cotton fabric what kind of, there is viscous people to feel after moisture absorption.Summer sweat is more, and bacterium easy to breed, bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber are all Has the function of antibacterial bacteriostatic;When summer outdoor activities, sunshine is strong, is easy skin ambustion, bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber have anti-purple Outside, anti-radiation effect can permanently be effectively prevented skin ambustion.
When present invention production bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops color knits shirt fabric, it should be noted that the following: (1) bamboo fibre is more delicate, It wears no resistance, needs the synthetic fibers good with wearability blended, to improve the durability of fabric;(2) flaxen fiber cohesive force is poor, Fiber in yarn is easy to produce sliding, needs to interweave with other fiber blends, to improve the weaving performance of flaxen fiber yarn; (3) flaxen fiber class yarn, filoplume is more, and sizing cannot make filoplume submissive, and end breakage rate is high, is used as weft yarn, can reduce the life of fabric Produce difficulty;(4) channel that preparatory process will be passed through using " small tension receiving coil, protects elasticity at low velocity " as the basic principle of technique, yarn It wants bright and clean, reduces the damage to bamboo fibre to the greatest extent.

Claims (5)

1. a kind of design method of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, it is characterised in that: the design method is as follows:
(1) selection of raw material: when this fabric design, warp and weft has selected two different yarns, and warp thread is that the bamboo of 11.8tex is washed Mixed yarn, weft yarn select the cotton ramie blended spinning yarn of 14.6tex;
(2) comfort of fabric: polyester fiber accounts for 30% in this fabric, and bamboo fibre accounts for 30%, and cotton fiber accounts for 28%, and flaxen fiber accounts for 12%, the average regain of fabric reaches 7.54%;
(3) functionality of fabric: bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber have a natural antibacterial, bacteria resistance function, the anti-ultraviolet function of bamboo fibre, It is 400 times of cotton fiber, ultraviolet ray burn skin can be effectively prevented;
(4) other performances of fabric: the conformal performance of polyester fiber is good;The dimensional stability of bamboo fibre and flaxen fiber also compares It is superior, and the glossiness of fiber is good, therefore bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric, the performance phase of well-pressed, performance attractive in appearance and polyester-cotton fabric Closely, permeability, water vapour permeability will be much better than polyester-cotton fabric, and comfort property is splendid, and it is one that there is no feelings of oppression and heat when human body is perspired The fabric that money is had excellent performance;
(5) by process optimization, improve yield and quality: bamboo washs mixed yarn, although thinner than ramie cotton yarn, yarn strength is high, uses Make warp thread, can be reduced broken end, conducive to the yield and quality for improving product;In cotton/hemp blended yarn, flaxen fiber cohesive force is poor, fiber Between be easy to produce sliding, thus yarn strength is low, is easy broken end;Flaxen fiber yarn simultaneously, filoplume is more, when being used as warp thread, shed open It is clear to be not easy, and cotton ramie blended spinning yarn is used as weft yarn, to reduce the production difficulty of fabric.
2. the design method of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the fabric specification As follows: Fabric width 146.5cm, finished product is through close 512/10cm, 276/10cm of finished product filling density;Fabric breadth 156.3cm, base Cloth is through close 480/10cm, 264/10cm of fabric filling density;Through crimp 9.1%, latitude weave shrinkage 4.1%, width shrinkage 6.3% is long Shrinkage 4.3%, 154 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 163cm, the every reed 3 of ground tissue enter, and the every reed 3 of side texture enters, a meter Jing Chang 1.1, the comprehensive productions of page four, fabric tissue is plain weave.
3. the design method of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the warp thread raw material For 11.8tex bamboo/wash mixed yarn, blending ratio 50/50, color has 4 kinds, and A indicates zhang blue, and B indicates that a Borland color, C indicate sea Blue, D indicates bottle green, and color is arranged are as follows: 65A, 14C, 66A, 49D, 10A, 66B, 7A, 66B, 10A, 49D;One spends middle A yarn 158,132, B yarn, 14, C yarn, 98, D yarn, one spends 402, and the flower of full width 19 subtracts first 128, subtracts a color are as follows: A yarn 13 Root, 66, B yarn, 49, D yarn, full width fabric total quantity of warps is 7510, wherein 2989, A yarn, 2442, B yarn, 266, C yarn, Wire gauze 1813, side yarn is identical with body warp, is not separately provided, and directly utilizes body warp.
4. the design method of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the weft yarn raw material For the cotton/hemp blended yarn of 14.6tex, blending ratio is cotton 70%, and flaxen fiber 30%, there are four types of color, a indicates zhang blue, a b expression Borland color, c indicate that Hai Lan is worked hard in glove with, and d indicates bottle green.Barry dyeing puts in order as 44a, 7c, 44a, 30d, 5a, 44b, 5a, 44b, 5a, 30d;In the flower circulation of weft yarn one, 103, a yarn, 88, b yarn, 7, c yarn, 60, d yarn, the flower recurring number of weft yarn one is 258.
5. a kind of production technology of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: including walking as follows It is rapid:
(1) winder: using GA014MD type bobbin-winding machine rewinding, and winder uses the technique of " low speed, small tension receiving coil protect elasticity ", winder Speed is set as 575m/min, bobbin-winding machine configuration is light, in, weigh three kinds of tension washers, when this fabric winder, selects " light " tension mat Circle;
(2) warping: using CGA114B-SM type beam warper warping, and " low velocity protects elasticity " technique, warping are used when warping Speed is determined as 600m/min, and channel wants bright and clean when warping, and when warping no longer carries out the setting of additional tension, collective's creeling, with Retention tab yarn tension it is uniform;
Warping is calculated with axis: 2989, A yarn, being made into 5 warp beams, is 597*1+598*4 with axis;2442, B yarn, 4 axis are made into, are matched Axis is 610*2+611*2;266, C yarn, individually at axis;1813, D yarn, 3 axis are made into, are 604*2+605*1 with axis;
(3) the sizing machine starching of GA301 type, formula of size are as follows: polyester starch 50%, PVA slurry 20%, solid third sizing: are used Olefin(e) acid class slurry 28%, wax disk(-sc) 2%, slurry viscosity 11-12S, 95 DEG C of slurry groove temperature;Sizing speed control is in 45-50m/min; Slurry groove temperature is 95 DEG C;The rate of sizing controls between 10%-11%;Mud-jacking technology uses mud-jacking technology light after preceding weight, preceding pressure The pressure for starching roller is 16kn, and the pressure of post jacking roller is 12kn;It is 50/50 that bamboo, which washs blending ratio, and the official regain of yarn is 6.2%, sized warp moisture regain controls between 5%-5.5%;
(4) gait: fabric tissue is plain weave, but radical is relatively more, when being woven using the heald frames of page two, the bullet of negative shedding mechanism Spring is easy fatigue, causes to generate mechanical breakdown, thus to use page four it is comprehensive weave, sequence of gaiting is comprehensive along wearing for page four, and reed is every Reed 3 enters;
(5) it weaves: being woven using GA708 type air-jet loom, loom speed 600r/min;
Opening time is 300 °, and for fabric through close big, it is clear to be conducive to shed open for the early opening process of selection;
Weft insertion technique: weft yarn beginning flying angle is set as 90 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, and weft yarn is actually reached angle control and exists Between 210 ° -230 °, the release time of gear yarn needle is 72 °, and main jet jet time is 68 ° -160 °, using 8 groups of pilot jets, respectively Group pilot jet jet time is followed successively by 68 ° -218 °, and 86 ° -136 °, 103 ° -153 °, 121 ° -171 °, 138 ° -188 °, 156 ° - 216 °, 173 ° -230 °, 190 ° -300 °;
Whiff pressure: main jet pressure controls between 0.23Mpa-0.28Mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying control is in 0.28Mpa-0.33Mpa Between, in actual production process, angle is actually reached according to weft yarn, adjusts whiff pressure, weft yarn angle of arrival is appropriate to adjust earlier than 210 ° Small whiff pressure, weft yarn angle of arrival are later than 230 °, suitably tune up whiff pressure;
Warp tension: fabric tissue is plain weave, through close bigger, warp tension control bigger than normal, and when actual production, warp tension control System is in 150kg.
CN201811631015.2A 2018-12-29 2018-12-29 A kind of design method and its production technology of bamboo polyester-cotton blend fiber crops shirt fabric Pending CN109695089A (en)

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