CN109137215A - 一种丝麻面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明实施例公开了一种丝麻面料及其制备方法，所述丝麻面料由高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织而成，其中，经线采用高支苎麻纱、纬线采用两至三根真丝纱线粘附胶水织造而成；或者经线采用两至三根真丝纱线、纬线采用高支苎麻纱粘附胶水织造而成。本发明实施例最大程度地吸收真丝纤维与苎麻纤维的优点，成品面料柔软性好，贴肤性好，不容易纰裂，面料表面细腻，挺拔垂感好，透气性好，是能成为一种新型高端天然面料。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及面料技术领域，具体涉及一种丝麻面料及其制备方法。
背景技术
丝麻面料为丝和麻的混纺面料。
现有技术公开了一种天丝麻面料，所述面料由经纱和纬纱交织而成，其特征在于：所述经纱为天丝，所述纬纱由二根天丝和一根亚麻纱循环交替而成，所述面料由经纱和纬纱以二上二下斜纹的方式编织而成，所述面料成品的经密为138-148，纬密为105-115。该技术兼顾了天丝与亚麻两种纤维的特性，同时纬纱由二根天丝和一根亚麻纱循环交替而成，并采用二上二下斜纹的编织方式，织得的面料纬向有竹节纱的亚麻布效果，经向平整，吸湿性好、光滑凉爽，比亚麻面料柔软，比天丝面料挺括，具有调温、抗过敏、防静电、抗菌的功能，特别适合夏季使用。
现有技术公开了一种丝麻交织面料，由第一面料单元和第二面料单元组成的基础单元阵列循环排布而成；第一面料单元包括四根亚麻纬纱和十六根真丝经纱；第一面料单元的第一、三根亚麻纬纱与真丝经纱五上一下九上一下相互交织而成，第二、四根纬纱亚麻纬纱与真丝经纱四上一下九上一下一上相互交织而成；第二面料单元的真丝纬纱和真丝经纱以方平组织相互交织而成。该技术选用两种组织风格优化改进，第一面料单元结构膨松，牢固且透气性好；第二面料单元结构平整挺括，耐磨性好；可形成不同平面，立体感强，结构牢固，透气。同时，亚麻材质的纬纱可以提高真丝面料的耐磨性能，使本发明具有更好的耐磨性能。
现有丝麻面料采用真丝纱线与亚麻纱线交织，手感生硬，容易纰裂，麻节多。
发明内容
本发明实施例的目的在于提供一种丝麻面料及其制备方法，用以解决现有丝麻面料手感生硬，容易纰裂的问题。
为实现上述目的，本发明实施例提供一种丝麻面料，所述丝麻面料由高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织而成，其中，经线采用高支苎麻纱、纬线采用两至三根真丝纱线粘附胶水织造而成；或者经线采用两至三根真丝纱线、纬线采用高支苎麻纱粘附胶水织造而成。
可选的，所述丝麻面料的经纬纱支之差不大于20，经纬密度之差不大于20。采用高支苎麻纱线与真丝纱线交织，尽量使经纬线纱支数趋于一致，以达到最好的面料效果。
可选的，所述丝麻面料的经支为60-80，纬支为300-600。
可选的，所述丝麻面料的经纬密度为(125±10)×(125±10)。
本发明还提供所提供的丝麻面料的制备方法：
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料；
a、将坯料用含酒石酸、苹果酸和草酸的第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，得到一次精炼面料；
b、将一次精炼面料用含半纤维素酶和木聚糖酶的第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，得到二次精炼面料；
c、将所得二次精炼面料用含氢氧化钠和碳酸钠的第三精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。
可选的，步骤a中，所述第一精炼液中酒石酸含量为0.1-0.3mol/L，苹果酸含量为0.05-0.1mol/L，草酸含量为0.15-0.45mol/L，温度为35-55℃，时间为1-10min，浴比为1：(1-5)。
可选的，步骤b中，所述第二精炼液中半纤维素酶酶活力为 100-400u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为500-2000u/mL，pH值为4-6，温度为 30-40°，时间为15-45min，浴比为1：(10-15)。
可选的，步骤c中，所述第一精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为 0.01-0.05mol/L，碳酸钠含量为1-3mol/L，温度为40-60℃，时间为5-20min，浴比为1：(2-10)；干燥温度为35-45℃，时间为30-60min，烘干温度为 110-130℃，时间为60-120min。
本发明实施例具有如下优点：
本发明实施例最大程度地吸收真丝纤维与苎麻纤维的优点，成品面料柔软性好，贴肤性好，不容易纰裂，面料表面细腻，挺拔垂感好，透气性好，是能成为一种新型高端天然面料。
具体实施方式
以下由特定的具体实施例说明本发明的实施方式，熟悉此技术的人士可由本说明书所揭露的内容轻易地了解本发明的其他优点及功效。
本发明实施例面料的纰裂程度采用如下方式测试：试样尺寸5.0cm× 20.0cm；施加负荷:面料200N，里料70N；缝制要求按GB/T13772.2—2008 《纺织品机织物接缝处纱线抗滑移的测定第2部分:定负荷法》。
实施例1
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1，纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
实施例2
按照实施例1的方法制备坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干。精炼液中酒石酸为0.2mol/L，苹果酸为0.06mol/L，草酸含量为0.3mol/L，温度为45℃，时间为5min，浴比为1：4。干燥的温度为40℃，时间为40min，烘干温度为120℃，时间为80min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
实施例3
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，第一精炼液中酒石酸为 0.2mol/L，苹果酸为0.06mol/L，草酸含量为0.3mol/L，温度为45℃，时间为5min，浴比为1：4。将一次精炼面料用第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干。第二精炼液中半纤维素酶活力为300u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为1500u/mL，pH值为5.6，温度为37℃，时间为30min，浴比为 1:12。干燥的温度为40℃，时间为40min，烘干温度为120℃，时间为 80min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
实施例4
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，第一精炼液中酒石酸为 0.2mol/L，苹果酸为0.06mol/L，草酸含量为0.3mol/L，温度为45℃，时间为5min，浴比为1：4。将一次精炼面料用第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，第二精炼液中半纤维素酶活力为300u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为1500 u/mL，pH值为5.6，温度为37℃，时间为30min，浴比为1:12。将二次精炼面料用第三精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。第三精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为0.03mol/L，碳酸钠含量为2mol/L，温度为 55℃，时间为15min，浴比为1:8。干燥的温度为40℃，时间为40min，烘干温度为120℃，时间为80min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
实施例5
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，第一精炼液中半纤维素酶活力为300u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为1500u/mL，pH值为5.6，温度为37℃，时间为30min，浴比为1:12。将一次精炼面料用第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。第二精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为 0.03mol/L，碳酸钠含量为2mol/L，温度为55℃，时间为15min，浴比为 1:8。干燥的温度为40℃，时间为40min，烘干温度为120℃，时间为80min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
实施例6
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，第一精炼液中酒石酸为 0.1mol/L，苹果酸为0.08mol/L，草酸含量为0.2mol/L，温度为50℃，时间为5min，浴比为1：4。将一次精炼面料用第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，第二精炼液中半纤维素酶活力为100u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为500u/mL， pH值为5.7，温度为38℃，时间为40min，浴比为1:10。将二次精炼面料用第三精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。第三精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为0.01mol/L，碳酸钠含量为1mol/L，温度为45℃，时间为5min，浴比为1:2。干燥的温度为35℃，时间为30min，烘干温度为110℃，时间为70min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
实施例7
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，第一精炼液中酒石酸为 0.2mol/L，苹果酸为0.06mol/L，草酸含量为0.3mol/L，温度为45℃，时间为5min，浴比为1：4。将一次精炼面料用第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，第二精炼液中半纤维素酶活力为300u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为1500 u/mL，pH值为5.6，温度为37℃，时间为30min，浴比为1:12。将二次精炼面料用第三精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。第三精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为0.01mol/L，碳酸钠含量为1mol/L，温度为 45℃，时间为5min，浴比为1:2。干燥的温度为35℃，时间为30min，烘干温度为110℃，时间为70min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
实施例8
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，第一精炼液中酒石酸为 0.1mol/L，苹果酸为0.08mol/L，草酸含量为0.2mol/L，温度为50℃，时间为2min，浴比为1：1。将一次精炼面料用第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，第二精炼液中半纤维素酶活力为300u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为1500 u/mL，pH值为5.6，温度为37℃，时间为30min，浴比为1:12。将二次精炼面料用第三精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。第三精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为0.03mol/L，碳酸钠含量为2mol/L，温度为 55℃，时间为15min，浴比为1:8。干燥的温度为40℃，时间为40min，烘干温度为120℃，时间为80min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
对比例1
将亚麻麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
对比例2
将亚麻麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料，经纬密度和经纬纱支数据见表1。
将坯料用第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，第一精炼液中酒石酸为0.2mol/L，苹果酸为0.06mol/L，草酸含量为0.3mol/L，温度为45℃，时间为5min，浴比为1：4。将一次精炼面料用第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，第二精炼液中半纤维素酶活力为300u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为1500 u/mL，pH值为5.6，温度为37℃，时间为30min，浴比为1:12。将二次精炼面料用第三精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。第三精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为0.03mol/L，碳酸钠含量为2mol/L，温度为 55℃，时间为15min，浴比为1:8。干燥的温度为40℃，时间为40min，烘干温度为120℃，时间为80min。纰裂程度和手感测试见表1。
表1
虽然，上文中已经用一般性说明及具体实施例对本发明作了详尽的描述，但在本发明基础上，可以对之作一些修改或改进，这对本领域技术人员而言是显而易见的。因此，在不偏离本发明精神的基础上所做的这些修改或改进，均属于本发明要求保护的范围。
Claims (8)
1.一种丝麻面料，其特征在于，所述丝麻面料由高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织而成，其中，经线采用高支苎麻纱、纬线采用两至三根真丝纱线粘附胶水织造而成；或者经线采用两至三根真丝纱线、纬线采用高支苎麻纱粘附胶水织造而成。
2.根据权利要求1所述的丝麻面料，其特征在于，所述丝麻面料的经纬纱支之差不大于20，经纬密度之差不大于20。
3.根据权利要求1所述的丝麻面料，其特征在于，所述丝麻面料的经支为60-80，纬支为300-600。
4.根据权利要求1所述的丝麻面料，其特征在于，所述丝麻面料的经纬密度为(125±10)×(125±10)。
5.权利要求1-4中任意一项所述的丝麻面料的制备方法：
将高支苎麻纱与真丝纱线交织得到坯料；
a、将坯料用含酒石酸、苹果酸和草酸的第一精炼液进行二浸二轧，得到一次精炼面料；
b、将一次精炼面料用含半纤维素酶和木聚糖酶的第二精炼液进行二浸二轧，得到二次精炼面料；
c、将所得二次精炼面料用含氢氧化钠和碳酸钠的第三精炼液进行二浸二轧，然后干燥和烘干，得到丝麻面料。
6.根据权利要求5所述的制备方法，其中，步骤a中，所述第一精炼液中酒石酸含量为0.1-0.3mol/L，苹果酸含量为0.05-0.1mol/L，草酸含量为0.15-0.45mol/L，温度为35-55℃，时间为1-10min，浴比为1：(1-5)。
7.根据权利要求5所述的制备方法，其中，步骤b中，所述第二精炼液中半纤维素酶酶活力为100-400u/mL，木聚糖酶酶活力为500-2000u/mL，pH值为4-6，温度为30-40°，时间为15-45min，浴比为1：(10-15)。
8.根据权利要求5所述的制备方法，其中，步骤c中，所述第一精炼液中氢氧化钠含量为0.01-0.05mol/L，碳酸钠含量为1-3mol/L，温度为40-60℃，时间为5-20min，浴比为1：(2-10)；干燥温度为35-45℃，干燥时间为30-60min，烘干温度为110-130℃，烘干时间为60-120min。
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