CN108265364B - A kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect - Google Patents

A kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect Download PDF

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Publication number
CN108265364B
CN108265364B CN201810052573.7A CN201810052573A CN108265364B CN 108265364 B CN108265364 B CN 108265364B CN 201810052573 A CN201810052573 A CN 201810052573A CN 108265364 B CN108265364 B CN 108265364B
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layer
layers
latitude
tissue
pieces
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CN108265364A (en
Inventor
金子敏
张秀玲
王雪琴
王小丁
阎玉秀
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Zhejiang Guanghua Textile Co., Ltd.
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Zhejiang Guanghua Textile Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D03D11/02Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks, or flaps
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabrics of two-sided effect, and by the design of textile processes specification, the design of tissue, the design of grain pattern and the mutual cooperation between them, weaving obtains a kind of three with two-sided effect layer raw silk class jacquard fabric.The fabric can be used as clothes, tippet or scarf etc..Fabric Design is the raw silk class fabric of two layer regions and the alternate appearance of three layer regions by the present invention, two layer regions of fabric include flower portion, portion, dark line and bound edge, two layers of regional organization be designed as double-ply bag and knit structure;Three layer regions of fabric include ground portion, dark line and bound edge, and three layer region organization designs are that layer tissue, centre are to throw the floating length of road latitude up and down.For the present invention compared with conventional raw silk kind fabric, visual effect is abundant and more has a sense of hierarchy and aesthetic feeling.

Description

A kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect
Technical field
The present invention relates to the groups of a kind of dress and personal adornment fabric more particularly to a kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect Design is knitted, fabric class technical field is belonged to.
Background technique
Silk has ancient and long history in China, not only witnesses the Chinese nation in its unique way for thousands of years Evolution of the costumes and development, the culture and art of China are even more passed on as a kind of special carrier.
The development in epoch and the raising of scientific and technological level bring unprecedented challenge to textile industry, as carrying Whether the silk fabric of long history and culture and arts in thousand is equally faced with the test from people's every aspect: being comfortably good for Health, if naturally environmentally friendly, if to meet aesthetic judgement of people etc..How silk fabric is re-recognized, shines silk fabrics Dress ornament value, allow silk to be reborn, grow with each passing hour, to adapt to market and the demand of the majority of consumers, all the time all It is the problem of Chinese Designers are thought deeply and explored.
The current silk product in China is in low and middle-end level mostly, and the technical level for being mainly reflected in product is low, appearance The trend that also do not keep pace with the times in time with style causes the of low grade of silk product.In this context, novel, unique, innovation Textile fabric like by the majority of consumers.The present invention develops one kind using special process specification design and organization design The special feel of raw silk kind fabric, the color of yarn and dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric are incorporated in one by three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect It rises, so that the decoration use value of fabric is got a promotion, great market potential.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is directed to the special feel of raw silk class silk fabrics, provides a kind of particular tissues design of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric Method.Fabric can be used as the fabrics such as clothes, tippet or scarf.
Fabric Design is the raw silk class fabric of two layers and three layers alternate appearance by this invention.Two layer regions of fabric include flower Portion, portion, dark line and bound edge, two layers of regional organization be designed as double-ply bag and knit structure;Three layer regions of fabric include ground portion, dark line And bound edge, three layer region organization designs are that layer tissue, centre are to throw the floating length of road latitude up and down.By the design of textile processes specification, The design of tissue, the design of grain pattern and the mutual cooperation between them obtain a kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric.Technical side Case is related to several aspects such as textile design Color Scheme technique, line weaving process, weaving process.
The present invention has two-sided visual effect: (1) in terms of front, two layers of ground portion areas transparent is plain, two layers of flower portion region Clear-cut, the transparent raw silk in three layers of ground portion region upper layer is shrouded to float on long colorful yarn in the road Tian Xinpao latitude;(2) it sees from the negative, Ground portion and dark line region exquisiteness are plain, and flower portion is beautiful in colour.Entire fabric visual effect is abundant and has levels.
Beneficial effects of the present invention:
(1) stereovision.Other common treble cloths, fabric level of the present invention are compared in two layers of fabric and three layers of alternate appearance It is more abundant.
(2) two-sided effect.Appearance of fabrics has front-back two-sided effect, wherein to fill out the floating length of core weft the most only for three layer regions It is special.
(3) feel is unique.Fabric of the present invention combines ripe mulberry silk and raw mulberry silk, and fabric face raw silk feel is soft refreshing, instead Face exquisiteness silk is sliding.Therefore, compared with conventional raw silk kind fabric, two-sided three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of this invention has more the present invention Have a sense of hierarchy, aesthetic feeling and design are felt.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 fabric level distribution map;
Fig. 2 fabric artistic conception graph coloring number and Tissue distribution figure.
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with attached drawing, the invention will be further described.
The present invention is a kind of double-deck raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect.Weaving first in kind of the invention uses 2/ through raw material The raw materials such as the ripe mulberry silk of 20/22D, for second through raw material using raw materials such as the raw mulberry silks of 20/22D, first, second is 3: 1 through Proportionality design.Latitude Line may be designed as N group weft (N can be 3,4,5,6,7,8,9 or 10 etc.), and than being 1: 1, weft raw material is M/20/22D for arrangement Ripe mulberry silk (M can be 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 or 10 etc.).In the present invention by taking 6 groups of latitudes as an example, respectively first latitude, second latitude, third Latitude, fourth latitude, penta latitude, own latitude, except first latitude is made a living in addition to mulberry silk, remaining tram is all ripe mulberry silk, and each group tram ratio is 1: 1.6 In group latitude, first latitude, second latitude are often knitted, and remaining four roads Zu Weipao occur.Through it is close be 60~150/cm, single group latitude filling density is 20~60 Root/cm.
As two layer regions of two layers of fabric and three layers of distribution map fabric as shown in Figure 1: include flower portion, portion, dark line and packet Side;Three layer regions of fabric include ground portion, dark line and bound edge.
It is including two layers of flower portion tissue, two layers of ground portion tissue, two layers of dark line group without two layers of regional organization for throwing road latitude position Knit that totally four seed types, specific organization design are as follows with two layers of bound edge tissue.
Wherein, two layers of flower portion includes three kinds of tissues, and organization design is as follows:
The first tissue: upper layer first is interweaved through often knitting weft yarn with 1 group with five pieces of warp sateens;Lower layer's second is passed through with 1 group of latitude with nine pieces Satin weave interweaves colour developing, and backing N-2 group latitude is interweaved with nine pieces of satin weaves or nine pieces of satin weaves and three pieces of twills intertextures.This tissue makes fabric flower Portion reaches a kind of upper layer first through through surface colour development, lower layer's second passes through the double-ply bag for often knitting weft yarns colour developing with 1 group and knits effect.
Second of tissue: upper layer first is interweaved through often knitting weft yarn with 1 group with five pieces of warp sateens;Lower layer's second is passed through with 2 groups of latitudes with nine pieces Satin weave, which interweaves, to develop the color, and backing N-3 group latitude is interweaved with nine pieces of satin weaves and three pieces of twills.This tissue makes fabric flower portion reach a kind of upper layer First is through through surface colour development, lower layer's second passes through the double-ply bag to develop the color with 2 groups of weft yarns and knits effect.
The third tissue: upper layer first, which is passed through, often knits five pieces of warp sateens intertextures of weft yarn with 1 group;Lower layer's second passes through oblique with three pieces with 3 groups of latitudes Line, which interweaves, to develop the color, and backing N-4 group latitude is interweaved with nine pieces of satin weaves.This tissue makes fabric flower portion reach a kind of upper layer first through showing through face Color, lower layer's second pass through the double-ply bag to develop the color with 3 groups of weft yarns and knit effect.
Wherein, two layers of ground portion contains a kind of tissue, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and lower layer is that first is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with diversified twill.This tissue Two layer region of portion reaches a kind of frivolous transparent raw silk class in upper layer with making fabric, and lower layer is that the double-ply bag of simple twill knits effect.
Wherein, two layers of dark line contains a kind of tissue, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer is that second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and lower layer is that first is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with five pieces of variation satin weaves. Two layer region of portion reaches a kind of frivolous transparent raw silk class in upper layer to this tissue with making fabric, and lower layer is that the double-ply bag of magnificent satin weave knits effect Fruit.
Wherein, two layers of bound edge contains a kind of tissue, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer is that first is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with five heddle satin, and lower layer is that second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills.This group Purpose is knitted as fixed weft.
To sum up, in two layer regions, two layers of ground portion tissue, two layers of dark line tissue and two layers flower portion tissue, two layers of bound edge tissue It is that hollow bag is knitted, the table back warp position and first latitude, second latitude, the third latitude, fourth latitude, penta that table inner layer is passed through by exchange first and second passes through The table back weft position binding of latitude, own latitude.
The three layer region organization designs in the road multiple groups Wei Pao position include three layers of ground portion tissue, three layers of dark line tissue and three layers Bound edge tissue is total to three types, and specific organization design is as follows.
Wherein, three layers of ground portion includes a kind of tissue, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and middle layer is that N-2 group latitude fills out core, and lower layer is that first is passed through with 1 group of latitude to become Change twill to interweave.Two layer region of portion reaches a kind of frivolous transparent raw silk class in upper layer to this tissue with making fabric, and middle layer is colored weft yarn Core is filled out, lower layer is three layers of effect of simple twill.
Wherein, three layers of dark line include a kind of tissue, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer is second through being interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and middle layer is that N-2 group latitude fills out core, lower layer for first through with 1 group of latitude with Five pieces of variation satin weaves interweave.Two layer region of portion reaches a kind of frivolous transparent raw silk class in upper layer to this tissue with making fabric, and middle layer is coloured silk Barry dyeing yarn fills out core, and lower layer is three layers of effect of magnificent satin weave.
Wherein, three layers of bound edge contain a kind of tissue, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer is first through being interweaved with 1 group of latitude with five heddle satin, and middle layer is that N-2 group latitude fills out core, lower layer be second through with 1 group of latitude with Three pieces of twills interweave.This organizational goal is fixed weft.
A kind of two-sided effect can be obtained using jacquard weaving by knitting CAD progress process with line again after machine under fabric Three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric.
To sum up, in three layer regions, three layers of ground portion tissue, three layers of dark line tissue, three layers of flower portion tissue and three layers of bound edge tissue Be that bilayer fills out core tissue, table inner layer is passed through by exchange first and the table back warp position of second warp and first latitude, second latitude, the third latitude, fourth latitude, The table back weft position binding of penta latitude, own latitude.
Line weaving process design cycle
(1) artistic conception is handled
Tissue types can be depending on level needed for grain pattern, by taking the grain pattern in the present invention as an example, this fabric is related to 11 kinds altogether Specific tissue distinguishes different tissues distributed areas with 11 kinds of artistic conception colors, facilitates and carry out tissue input.Fig. 2 is fabric of the present invention Organize color distribution map: wherein 1-7 color is two layers of Hua Bu regional organization color number;No. 8 colors are Di Bu regional organization color number, 9-10 Number color is dark line regional organization color number, and No. 11 colors are bound edge regional organization color number.It opens line and knits CAD, it is first constant with default parameters, Sample parameter is set again after color separation, 90/cm is inputted using the folded way single layer filling density through folded latitude, single layer is through close 50/cm, meaning Craftsman, which is arranged, to reset the option of size and chooses as scaling in dialog box, line knit in CAD with the functions such as rubber band, free pen slightly into Orchid artistic conception map file is saved as after row finishing grain pattern.
(2) latitude row information is established
According to the color in flower portion in design grain pattern, the weft color of needs is confirmed.First latitude is raw silk white, and second latitude is grey Mulberry silk, the third latitude are orange mulberry silk, and fourth latitude is dark blue mulberry silk, and penta latitude is sky-blue mulberry silk, and own latitude is white mulberry silk. First latitude and second latitude are throwed a spear in the Shi Weiquan that throws a spear, and remaining four roads Wei Weipao are throwed a spear.First warp: second warp=3: 1, proportionally and folded warp Folded latitude draw led through.
(3) tissue corresponding to plan of weave color
1 upper layer of table (first warp) each group latitude corresponds to tissue
2 lower layer of table (second warp) each group latitude corresponds to tissue
(4) auxiliary needle hypodesmus explanation
Table 3 assists tailor's cushion method explanation

Claims (3)

1. a kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect, it is characterised in that: it passes through the design of textile processes specification, tissue Design, the design of grain pattern and the mutual cooperation between them, final weaving obtains three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric, The jacquard fabric is the raw silk class fabric of two layers and three layers alternate appearance;For fabric in terms of front, two layers of ground portion areas transparent is plain, and two Layer flower portion region contour is clear, and the transparent raw silk in three layers of ground portion region upper layer is shrouded to float on long colorful yarn in the road Tian Xinpao latitude;From Fabric backing sees that three layers of ground portion and three layers of dark line region exquisiteness are plain, and flower portion is beautiful in colour, specific structure are as follows:
Fabric is three layer regions in the road multiple groups Wei Pao position, is being two layer regions without road latitude position is thrown;Two layer region of fabric includes Two layers of ground portion region, two layers of flower portion region, two layers of dark line region and two layers of bound edge region;Three layer regions of fabric include three layers of ground Portion region, three layers of dark line region and three layers of bound edge region;Warp raw material: it is ripe mulberry silk that first, which passes through, and second is through mulberry silk of making a living, first and second It is 3: 1 through ratio;Weft is divided into N group weft, and wherein N is 3,4,5,6,7,8,9 or 10;Except first latitude is made a living in addition to mulberry silk, remaining Tram is all ripe mulberry silk, and each group ratio is 1: 1.
2. a kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:
Without two layers of regional organization for throwing road latitude position include two layers flower portion tissue, two layers of ground portion organize, two layers of dark line tissue and Totally four seed types, specific tissue are as follows for two layers of bound edge tissue:
Wherein, again comprising three kinds of tissues in two layers of flower portion tissue, organization design is as follows:
The first tissue: upper layer first is interweaved through often knitting weft yarn with 1 group with five pieces of warp sateens;Lower layer's second is passed through with 1 group of latitude with nine pieces of satin weaves Interweave colour developing, and backing N-2 group latitude is interweaved with nine pieces of satin weaves or nine pieces of satin weaves and three pieces of twills intertextures;Upper layer and lower-hierarchy are sky Core bag is knitted;
Second of tissue: upper layer first is interweaved through often knitting weft yarn with 1 group with five pieces of warp sateens;Lower layer's second is passed through with 2 groups of latitudes with nine pieces of satin weaves Interweave colour developing, and backing N-3 group latitude is interweaved with nine pieces of satin weaves and three pieces of twills;Upper layer is that hollow bag is knitted with lower-hierarchy;
The third tissue: upper layer first, which is passed through, often knits five pieces of warp sateens intertextures of weft yarn with 1 group;Lower layer's second is handed over 3 groups of latitudes with three pieces of twills Colour developing is knitted, backing N-4 group latitude is interweaved with nine pieces of satin weaves;Upper layer is that hollow bag is knitted with lower-hierarchy;
Wherein, two layers of ground portion organizes, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and lower layer is that first is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with diversified twill;Upper layer and lower layer Tissue is that hollow bag is knitted;
Wherein, two layers of dark line tissue, organization design are as follows:
Upper layer is that second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and lower layer is that first is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with five heddle satin;Upper layer is under Layer tissue is that hollow bag is knitted;
Wherein, two layers of bound edge tissue, organization design are as follows:
Upper layer is that first is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with five heddle satin, and lower layer is that second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and upper layer is under Layer tissue is that hollow bag is knitted;
To sum up, in two layer regions, two layers of ground portion tissue, two layers of dark line tissue is organized with two layers of flower portion, two layers of bound edge tissue is Hollow bag is knitted, table inner layer by exchange first pass through and second warp table back warp position and first latitude, second latitude, the third latitude, fourth latitude, penta latitude, oneself The table back weft position binding of latitude.
3. a kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:
The three layer region tissues in the road multiple groups Wei Pao position include three layers of ground portion tissue, three layers of dark line tissue and three layers of bound edge tissue Three types altogether, specific tissue are as follows:
Wherein, three layers of ground portion organizes, and organization design is as follows:
Upper layer second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and middle layer is that N-2 group latitude fills out core, and lower layer is that first is passed through with 1 group of latitude to change tiltedly Line interweaves;
Wherein, three layers of dark line tissue, organization design are as follows:
Upper layer is that second is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with three pieces of twills, and middle layer is that N-2 group latitude fills out core, and lower layer is that first is passed through with 1 group of latitude with five pieces Satin weave interweaves;
Wherein, three layers of bound edge tissue, organization design are as follows:
Upper layer is that first is interweaved with 1 group of latitude with five heddle satin, and middle layer is that N-2 group latitude fills out core, and lower layer is that second is passed through with 1 group of latitude with three pieces Twill interweaves;
To sum up, in three layer regions, three layers of ground portion tissue, three layers of dark line tissue, three layers of flower portion tissue and three layers of bound edge tissue are Bilayer fills out core tissue, the table back warp position and first latitude, second latitude, the third latitude, fourth latitude, penta that table inner layer is passed through by exchange first and second passes through The table back weft position binding of latitude, own latitude.
CN201810052573.7A 2018-01-19 2018-01-19 A kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect Active CN108265364B (en)

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CN1368567A (en) * 2002-03-01 2002-09-11 四川宏联新技术开发有限公司 Technology for producing Chinese chiffon
CN106149153B (en) * 2015-07-28 2017-10-27 诺华(杭州)纺织有限公司 A kind of silk-like fabric containing traditional thin,tough silk book pattern and its preparation technology
CN205088388U (en) * 2015-11-07 2016-03-16 兰溪市汇明提花织造有限公司 Colored jacquard weave four layers of knitting with silk presss from both sides empty pique
CN105350160B (en) * 2015-11-09 2017-04-05 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 A kind of warming jacquard fabric of two-sided different effect of additional latitude binding
CN105951276B (en) * 2016-07-08 2018-05-29 浙江理工大学 The triple complete hiding jacquard fabrics of latitude and its method for weaving
CN206438241U (en) * 2016-12-30 2017-08-25 苏州三和开泰花线织造有限公司 A kind of two-sided silk shell fabric of colour stripe gauze

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